Clothing & Accessories - Overview
Work, play, fashion, economic class, religious faith, even politics—all these aspects of American life and more are woven into clothing. The Museum cares for one of the nation's foremost collections of men's, women's, and children's garments and accessories—from wedding gowns and military uniforms to Halloween costumes and bathing suits.
The collections include work uniforms, academic gowns, clothing of presidents and first ladies, T-shirts bearing protest slogans, and a clean-room "bunny suit" from a manufacturer of computer microchips. Beyond garments, the collections encompass jewelry, handbags, hair dryers, dress forms, hatboxes, suitcases, salesmen's samples, and thousands of fashion prints, photographs, and original illustrations. The more than 30,000 artifacts here represent the changing appearance of Americans from the 1700s to the present day.
"Clothing & Accessories - Overview" showing 69 items.
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Hattie Carnegie Original Two-Piece Dress
- Description
- This evening dress, made of yellow-green silk satin, with princess-style seams, has a very full skirt, measuring 409-1/2 inches around the hem edge. The gown's pleated portrait collar and short sleeves were cut all-in-one with the upper bodice panel. A separate self-fabric belt with rhinestone buckle encircles the waist. A "Hattie Carnegie Original" designer's label is sewn on an inside skirt seam.
- Hattie Carnegie, one of a few female entrepreneurs in the early to mid-20th century, was born Henrietta Kanengeiser in Vienna, Austria, in 1886. She came to the United States in 1892. Her first job was as a messenger, sometime milliner, and model in Macy's department store. She decided to change her name and chose the surname of the richest man in the country, Andrew Carnegie, to reflect her ambitions. With determination and an innate sense for style and business, she became a symbol of taste and high fashion to many Americans.
- From the very beginning her wholesale and retail establishments attracted the wealthy. She opened her first shop, "Carnegie—Ladies' Hatter" in 1909, making and selling custom-made dresses and hats. As her business grew, she established her own wholesale house, which manufactured clothing with her label and sold in select stores. Well-known designers such as Claire McCardell and Norman Norell began their careers designing for her. By 1945, her shop on 49th Street in New York had added more departments, including American and French designs and accessories for "smart" dressing.
- This dress was worn by the donor, Mrs. Morehead Patterson, nee Margaret Tilt, the daughter of Charles A. Tilt of Chicago's Diamond T. Motor Car. She was at one time married to Moorehead Patterson, CEO of the American Foundry Machine Company (AMF), New York City.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- Date made
- 1948-1949
- used by
- Patterson, Mrs. Morehead
- maker
- Carnegie, Hattie
- designer
- Carnegie, Hattie
- ID Number
- CS*248146.006
- catalog number
- 248146.006
- accession number
- 248146
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Straight razor
- Description (Brief)
- A carbon steel razor with a molded cream celluloid handle. The handle is designed to look like the bones of a finger (phalanges).
- ID Number
- 2006.0098.1254
- accession number
- 2006.0098
- catalog number
- 2006.0098.1254
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Environmental Button
- Description
- David Hill founded the Rare Animal Relief Effort (RARE), in 1973. RARE is well known for its “Save the Whales” campaigns and has helped to protect other at risk animal populations such as manatees and Saint Lucia parrots.
- ID Number
- 2003.0014.0968
- accession number
- 2003.0014
- catalog number
- 2003.0014.0968
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Woman's Dress, 2002
- Description
- This evening dress was created by internationally renowned designer Oscar de la Renta in the fall of 2002 for the House of Balmain.
- Oscar de la Renta, born in 1932, was the son of a Dominican Republic insurance agent. He received his education in Santo Domingo and in Madrid. While studying to become a painter, he began sketching for leading Spanish fashion houses to help pay for his studies. He first thought seriously about a career in fashion when he designed a debutante gown for the daughter of the U.S. Ambassador to Spain, John Cabot Lodge. Soon after a photograph of the dress appeared in Life magazine, he was given his first professional job at Eisa, Balenciaga’s couture house in Madrid. In 1961, de la Renta was hired by Antonio del Castillo as an assistant at the Lanvin-Castillo couture house in Paris. He moved to New York to design for the custom-made collection at Elizabeth Arden in 1963, and in 1965 he joined the wholesale house of Jane Derby and became a partner in the business. After Derby retired in 1967, de la Renta changed the name of the company to his own ready-to-wear label, producing feminine, romantic, and dramatic evening clothes as well as accessories and fragrances for both men and women.
- In 1993, de la Renta was hired by the House of Balmain to design their couture collection. He was the first American designer since Mainbocher to design couture in Paris, France. De la Renta worked at Balmain for ten years while also running his own company in the United States. In 2002, this dress, which was from the final collection designed by Oscar de la Renta for the House of Balmain, was shown on the fashion runway in Paris and then worn by Lee Radziwell, Jacqueline Kennedy’s sister, to the American Friends of Versailles event at the United Nations in September of 2002. It was also loaned to the Metropolitan Museum of Arts Costume Institute for their exhibition “Goddess the Classical Mode” in 2003 before being donated to the Smithsonian in the fall of 2003 during a presentation called “An Evening with Oscar de la Renta.”
- This two-piece dress is constructed of gilt cock feathers attached to a silk top and a gold lame skirt. The top is sleeveless with a wide bateau neckline formed with a band of small hand-clipped overlapping feathers horizontally placed from shoulder to shoulder, meeting at the center front and back. The remainder of the top is covered with small feathers vertically overlapping in graduated rows that end in three rows of larger feathers from the waist to the hip area. There is a center back nylon zipper opening with a hook-and-eye closure. The back and bust darts shape the fit of the top with a gold China silk lining. The skirt is a column of crimped and pleated silk lame that hangs straight at the sides, ending in a lettuce-edged bottom. An invisible left side zipper opening ends with a hook-and-eye closure at the waistline. A gold China silk fabric partially lines the skirt. A Balmain/Paris label is sewn to the inside lining at the left back neckline. The dress measures 19 1/8" at the center back of the top, 43 1/4" at the center back of the skirt, and 26" at the waistline of the skirt.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- Date made
- 2002
- costumenmah
- National Museum of American History. Division of Social History
- designer
- de la Renta, Oscar
- used by
- Radziwill, Lee
- maker
- Balmain, Pierre
- ID Number
- 2003.0274.002
- accession number
- 2003.0274
- catalog number
- 2003.0274.002
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Fire Helmet, "Mitchell IV Fire Co."
- Description
- The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T. Gratacap, a New York City luggage maker by trade, is often credited as the developer of this style of fire helmet. Gratacap created a specially treated leather helmet with a segmented “comb” design that led to unparalleled durability and strength. The elongated rear brim (also known as a duckbill or beavertail) and frontpiece were 19th century innovations that remain the most identifiable feature of firefighter’s helmets. The body of the helmet was primarily designed to deflect falling debris, the rear brim prevented water from running down firefighters’ backs, and their sturdy crowns could aid, if necessary, in breaking windows.
- This leather fire helmet was made by Cairns & Brother of New York, New York in the early 19th century. The leather helmet is painted black with eight combs and ivy vine scroll work around the helmet’s brim. The back of the helmet has the initials “FA” flanking a fire hydrant painted in gold. This was the logo of the Fire Association of Philadelphia, an insurance company founded by a group of eleven volunteer engine companies and five volunteer hose companies in 1817. The metal frontpiece holder is in the shape of a fox, and holds a black and red frontpiece that reads “MITCHELL/IV/FIRE CO” in white text. Mitchell Fire Company No. 4 was founded in 1874 by shoemakers who were located on Federal Street in Burlington, New Jersey. The frontpiece is not original to the helmet.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- date made
- 1825
- maker
- Cairns & Brother
- ID Number
- 2005.0233.0171
- accession number
- 2005.0233
- catalog number
- 2005.0233.0171
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Fire Helmet, "Moyamensing 1"
- Description
- The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T. Gratacap, a New York City luggage maker by trade, is often credited as the developer of this style of fire helmet. Gratacap created a specially treated leather helmet with a segmented “comb” design that led to unparalleled durability and strength. The elongated rear brim (also known as a duckbill or beavertail) and frontpiece were 19th century innovations that remain the most identifiable feature of firefighter’s helmets. The body of the helmet was primarily designed to deflect falling debris, the rear brim prevented water from running down firefighters’ backs, and their sturdy crowns could aid, if necessary, in breaking windows.
- This leather helmet was made by Cairns & Brother of New York, New York in 1837, and has been paired with a leather frontpiece manufactured by John M. Migeod & Son. The helmet has a metal ring on its rear brim as well as a metal reinforcement band inside its crown. The frontpiece from “Moyamensing 1” bears a crossed hook and ladder and may belong to Chester, Pennsylvania’s Moyamensing Hook and Ladder Company No. 1, instituted in April of 1868 and incorporated in February of 1870. The word “JOKER” is painted at the bottom of the frontpiece.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- date made
- mid 19th century
- producer
- Migeod Company
- maker
- Cairns & Brother
- ID Number
- 2005.0233.0173
- accession number
- 2005.0233
- catalog number
- 2005.0233.0173
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Fire Helmet, "Newton 1"
- Description
- The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T. Gratacap, a New York City luggage maker by trade, is often credited as the developer of this style of fire helmet. Gratacap created a specially treated leather helmet with a segmented “comb” design that led to unparalleled durability and strength. The elongated rear brim (also known as a duckbill or beavertail) and frontpiece were 19th century innovations that remain the most identifiable feature of firefighter’s helmets. The body of the helmet was primarily designed to deflect falling debris, the rear brim prevented water from running down firefighters’ backs, and their sturdy crowns could aid, if necessary, in breaking windows.
- This leather fire helmet was made by Cairns & Brother of New York, New York in the late 19th century. This helmet is similar to the pith helmet, deviating from the style of the standard fire helmets with an elongated rear brim. The hat is painted black, with eight combs and a metal ring on top. There is an embossed vine design on the rear brim, and a metal lion frontpiece holder mounted to the crown. The black leather frontpiece has the number “1” in the center in white, with a red banner below that reads “NEWTON” in white.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- date made
- 19th century
- maker
- Cairns & Brother
- ID Number
- 2005.0233.0176
- accession number
- 2005.0233
- catalog number
- 2005.0233.0176
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Fire Helmet, "Trenton Hose Co. 1 EW"
- Description
- The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, front shield, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T. Gratacap, a New York City luggage maker by trade, is often credited as the developer of this style of fire helmet. Gratacap created a specially treated leather helmet with a segmented “comb” design that led to unparalleled durability and strength. The elongated rear brim (also known as a duckbill or beavertail) and front shield were 19th century innovations that remain the most identifiable feature of firefighter’s helmets. The body of the helmet was primarily designed to deflect falling debris, the rear brim prevented water from running down firefighters’ backs, and their sturdy crowns could aid, if necessary, in breaking windows.
- Though most work hats from 1836 on were shaped in the familiar Gratacap style with a prominent rear brim, some companies like Trenton wore hats that deviated from this standard. This leather fire helmet was made by Cairns & Brother of New York, New York around 1840. Reminiscent of British “bobby” or pith helmets this helmet has a rounded “bowl” shape. The helmet is painted white overall, with eight combs painted gold and a black diamond pattern painted in between the combs. It has a metal eagle shield holder, and a leather shield that reads "Trenton 1 Hose Co./THC/EW.” The interlocking “THC” initials in the center of the shield stand for the “Trenton Hose Company.”
- Location
- Currently not on view
- date made
- 1840
- maker
- Cairns & Brother
- ID Number
- 2005.0233.0193
- catalog number
- 2005.0233.0193
- accession number
- 2005.0233
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Fire Helmet, "Union / 1 / 1780"
- Description
- The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T. Gratacap, a New York City luggage maker by trade, is often credited as the developer of this style of fire helmet. Gratacap created a specially treated leather helmet with a segmented “comb” design that led to unparalleled durability and strength. The elongated rear brim (also known as a duckbill or beavertail) and frontpiece were 19th century innovations that remain the most identifiable feature of firefighter’s helmets. The body of the helmet was primarily designed to deflect falling debris, the rear brim prevented water from running down firefighters’ backs, and their sturdy crowns could aid, if necessary, in breaking windows.
- This leather fire helmet was made by Cairns & Brother of New York, New York during the 19th century. The helmet is painted white with four combs and ivy-vine scrollwork stamped around the brim. The date “1780” is painted in red on the rear brim. The hat has a metal eagle frontpiece holder mounted on the crown, with a silver metal frontpiece that reads “UNION/1/1780” in stamped brass plate, with an image of a steam engine in stamped brass above the “1”. The ornate nature of the frontpiece may mean that this hat was primarily worn during parades and ceremonial functions.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- date made
- 19th century
- maker
- Cairns & Brother
- ID Number
- 2005.0233.0194
- accession number
- 2005.0233
- catalog number
- 2005.0233.0194
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Fire Helmet, "John Stagg, Chief Engineer, P.F.D."
- Description
- The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T. Gratacap, a New York City luggage maker by trade, is often credited as the developer of this style of fire helmet. Gratacap created a specially treated leather helmet with a segmented “comb” design that led to unparalleled durability and strength. The elongated rear brim (also known as a duckbill or beavertail) and frontpiece were 19th century innovations that remain the most identifiable feature of firefighter’s helmets. The body of the helmet was primarily designed to deflect falling debris, the rear brim prevented water from running down firefighters’ backs, and their sturdy crowns could aid, if necessary, in breaking windows.
- This leather fire helmet was made by Cairns & Brother of New York, New York during the late19th century. The helmet consists of 64 combs and is painted white. There is an ivy vine scroll pattern around the brim and a small metal frontpiece on the rear brim that is engraved. A metal eagle’s head frontpiece holder is mounted on the top of the helmet’s crown. The gold leather frontpiece has a central image of a steam powered fire engine, with the text “CHIEF/ENGINEER/P.F.D.” The helmet belonged to John Stagg of the Paterson, New Jersey fire department. Stagg served as Chief Engineer of the Volunteer Fire Department from 1887 until 1889, and was made chief of the paid Paterson Fire Department in 1891.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- date made
- late 19th century
- maker
- Cairns & Brother
- ID Number
- 2005.0233.0207
- accession number
- 2005.0233
- catalog number
- 2005.0233.0207
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
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