Clothing & Accessories

Work, play, fashion, economic class, religious faith, even politics—all these aspects of American life and more are woven into clothing. The Museum cares for one of the nation's foremost collections of men's, women's, and children's garments and accessories—from wedding gowns and military uniforms to Halloween costumes and bathing suits.

The collections include work uniforms, academic gowns, clothing of presidents and first ladies, T-shirts bearing protest slogans, and a clean-room "bunny suit" from a manufacturer of computer microchips. Beyond garments, the collections encompass jewelry, handbags, hair dryers, dress forms, hatboxes, suitcases, salesmen's samples, and thousands of fashion prints, photographs, and original illustrations. The more than 30,000 artifacts here represent the changing appearance of Americans from the 1700s to the present day.

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
2000
2000-04-16
ID Number
2000.0158.04
accession number
2000.0158
catalog number
2000.0158.04
Date made
2000
2000-04-16
ID Number
2000.0158.01
catalog number
2000.0158.01
accession number
2000.0158
This is a double end pry bar designed to pull out nails and for light demolition. The length has a flat shape, one end has a slight curve that is tapered and slotted and the other end is shaped like the claw portion of a common hammer.
Description
This is a double end pry bar designed to pull out nails and for light demolition. The length has a flat shape, one end has a slight curve that is tapered and slotted and the other end is shaped like the claw portion of a common hammer. It was used by Jillian Gross while working for Habitat for Humanity, a not-for-profit, non-government organization advocating affordable housing around the world.
When Hurricane Katrina struck the Gulf Coast in August 2005, Jillian Gross had worked with Habitat for Humanity for three years learning woodworking and house-building skills. Groups such as Habitat for Humanity marshaled volunteers, tools and lumber to step in when it became clear that normal avenues of housing assistance were overwhelmed.
In November 2005, Habitat for Humanity launched “America Builds on the National Mall,” a demonstration house-building marathon in Washington, D.C. in which the basic components of 51 homes were assembled within a week and shipped to the Gulf Coast. Upon completion of the project Ms. Gross, one of the house building leaders during this event, donated her tool belt, tools and protective wear to the Smithsonian Institution.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1998-2005
ID Number
2005.0276.11
catalog number
2005.0276.11
accession number
2005.0276
These are cutting and sewing instructions for the overseas manufacturing of a dress sold under the “Hot Kiss” label. The instructions date from June 27, 2002 and describe a dress with style number 126-5462 made in Hong Kong.
Description
These are cutting and sewing instructions for the overseas manufacturing of a dress sold under the “Hot Kiss” label. The instructions date from June 27, 2002 and describe a dress with style number 126-5462 made in Hong Kong. The paper gives explicit instructions about how to stitch the seams, where the ruffles should go, and how much cloth should be used for each size of dress. During the 1980s, more and more brands and labels operated factories abroad to manufacture their wares with cheaper labor. This made it necessary to create guidelines and instructions for the overseas workers such as this ticket.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1999 - 2002
1999-2002
maker
Hot Kiss, Inc.
ID Number
2014.3041.04.09
accession number
2014.3041
catalog number
2014.3041.04.09
The frontpiece (also known as shield or badge) of firefighting helmets has been a distinctive part of the American firefighter’s helmet since it was developed by Henry Gratacap in the early 19th century. These frontpieces displayed a variety of information.
Description (Brief)
The frontpiece (also known as shield or badge) of firefighting helmets has been a distinctive part of the American firefighter’s helmet since it was developed by Henry Gratacap in the early 19th century. These frontpieces displayed a variety of information. The fire company's name and number appeared, often alongside the city or town where it was based. The frontpiece could also include the owner's initials and rank. Most fire helmets had leather frontpieces, but frontpieces could also be made of metal, especially on presentation helmets or those worn in parades.
This frontpiece was made during the early 20th century. At the top of the red leather frontpiece are two dark brown banners with white leather lettering that reads “McLEAN/ENGINE.” A large white leather “3” is in the center of the piece, below it is a recessed cartouche with a dark brown background. White leather initials “HPS” originally were in the cartouche, but the “H” is missing a stem, and the “P” is completely absent.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
early 20th century
maker
unknown
ID Number
2005.0233.1492
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.1492
These are cutting and sewing instructions for the overseas manufacturing of a dress sold under the “Hot Kiss” label. The instructions date from June 27, 2002 and describe a dress with style number 126-5462 made in Hong Kong.
Description
These are cutting and sewing instructions for the overseas manufacturing of a dress sold under the “Hot Kiss” label. The instructions date from June 27, 2002 and describe a dress with style number 126-5462 made in Hong Kong. The paper gives explicit instructions about how to stitch the seams, where the ruffles should go, and how much cloth should be used for each size of dress. During the 1980s, more and more brands and labels operated factories abroad to manufacture their wares with cheaper labor. This made it necessary to create guidelines and instructions for the overseas workers such as this ticket.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1999 - 2002
1999-2002
maker
Hot Kiss, Inc.
ID Number
2014.3041.04.13
accession number
2014.3041
catalog number
2014.3041.04.13
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T.
Description
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T. Gratacap, a New York City luggage maker by trade, is often credited as the developer of this style of fire helmet. Gratacap created a specially treated leather helmet with a segmented “comb” design that led to unparalleled durability and strength. The elongated rear brim (also known as a duckbill or beavertail) and frontpiece were 19th century innovations that remain the most identifiable feature of firefighter’s helmets. The body of the helmet was primarily designed to deflect falling debris, the rear brim prevented water from running down firefighters’ backs, and their sturdy crowns could aid, if necessary, in breaking windows.
This leather fire helmet was manufactured by Cairns & Brother of New York, New York. The helmet has eight combs and is painted white overall, with a leaping metal lion frontpiece holder. The leather frontpiece is painted white with a painted gold rim, with the word “CHIEF” in large gold letters in the center of the frontpiece. Two red ribbons are attached to the back of the helmet’s brim for decorative effect.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
20th century
maker
Cairns & Brother
ID Number
2005.0233.0214
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.0214
These are two identical HOT KISS paper tags collected with the dress production instructions seen in object number 2014.3041.04. The tags were intended to be attached to the final garment along with the tag seen in 2014.3014.16.
Description
These are two identical HOT KISS paper tags collected with the dress production instructions seen in object number 2014.3041.04. The tags were intended to be attached to the final garment along with the tag seen in 2014.3014.16. The label is printed on a white background with the red "HOT KISS" logo at the top. The label reads, "The irregularities and variations of shading and texture are characteristics of embellishment, which adds to it's uniqueness and is in no way to be considered defective."
date made
1990's - 2000's
maker
Hot Kiss, Inc.
ID Number
2014.3041.15
catalog number
2014.3041.15
nonaccession number
2014.3041
These are two size and care garment labels for the Hot Kiss brand of clothing collected with the dress production instructions seen in object number 2014.3041.04. The tags were intended to be attached to the final garment along with the tag seen in object 2013.3041.15.
Description
These are two size and care garment labels for the Hot Kiss brand of clothing collected with the dress production instructions seen in object number 2014.3041.04. The tags were intended to be attached to the final garment along with the tag seen in object 2013.3041.15. The label bears Hot Kiss’s lips logo, with the tagline “Remember your First” below the trademarked “Hot Kiss” logo. The size and care label reads “L/96% Cotton/4% Spandex/Made in Hong Kong/Fabrique A/Hong Kong/RN# 96120/Machine Wash Warm/Tumble Dry Low/Do Not Bleach.”
date made
1990's - 2000's
maker
Hot Kiss, Inc.
ID Number
2014.3041.16
catalog number
2014.3041.16
nonaccession number
2014.3041
These are cutting and sewing instructions for the overseas manufacturing of a dress sold under the “Hot Kiss” label. The instructions date from June 27, 2002 and describe a dress with style number 126-5462 made in Hong Kong.
Description
These are cutting and sewing instructions for the overseas manufacturing of a dress sold under the “Hot Kiss” label. The instructions date from June 27, 2002 and describe a dress with style number 126-5462 made in Hong Kong. The paper gives explicit instructions about how to stitch the seams, where the ruffles should go, and how much cloth should be used for each size of dress. During the 1980s, more and more brands and labels operated factories abroad to manufacture their wares with cheaper labor. This made it necessary to create guidelines and instructions for the overseas workers such as this ticket.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1999 - 2002
1999-2002
maker
Hot Kiss, Inc.
ID Number
2014.3041.04.07
accession number
2014.3041
catalog number
2014.3041.04.07
Law enforcement personnel joined with many other groups to save lives in the wake of Katrina's passage through the Gulf Coast in August 2005.
Description
Law enforcement personnel joined with many other groups to save lives in the wake of Katrina's passage through the Gulf Coast in August 2005. Skills used to apprehend criminals were supplemented by heroic attempts to rescue victims caught up in the swirling waters of the hurricane.
On the night of the hurricane Officer David Waite of the New Orleans Police Department was wearing this bullet-proof vest when he jumped into deep water in a city housing project to save a five-day-old girl. That girl and her family were escaping their housing in an overloaded boat that had just capsized. A nearby police boat witnessed the scene. The girl's mother attempted to lift the baby out of the water, but the infant seat in which she was strapped was too heavy and sank. Waite swam down to it and pulled the seat and baby into his craft. Another officer, Lejon Roberts, administered CPR to the infant as their boat sped to a nearby hospital. The child and her family survived.
Location
Currently not on view
Associated Date
August - September 2005
user
Waite, David J.
referenced
Roberts, LeJon
New Orleans Police Department
ID Number
2006.0066.01
catalog number
2006.0066.01
accession number
2006.0066
These are cutting and sewing instructions for the overseas manufacturing of a dress sold under the “Hot Kiss” label. The instructions date from June 27, 2002 and describe a dress with style number 126-5462 made in Hong Kong.
Description
These are cutting and sewing instructions for the overseas manufacturing of a dress sold under the “Hot Kiss” label. The instructions date from June 27, 2002 and describe a dress with style number 126-5462 made in Hong Kong. The paper gives explicit instructions about how to stitch the seams, where the ruffles should go, and how much cloth should be used for each size of dress. During the 1980s, more and more brands and labels operated factories abroad to manufacture their wares with cheaper labor. This made it necessary to create guidelines and instructions for the overseas workers such as this ticket.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1999 - 2002
1999-2002
maker
Hot Kiss, Inc.
ID Number
2014.3041.04.06
catalog number
2014.3041.04.06
accession number
2014.3041
These are cutting and sewing instructions for the overseas manufacturing of a dress sold under the “Hot Kiss” label. The instructions date from June 27, 2002 and describe a dress with style number 126-5462 made in Hong Kong.
Description
These are cutting and sewing instructions for the overseas manufacturing of a dress sold under the “Hot Kiss” label. The instructions date from June 27, 2002 and describe a dress with style number 126-5462 made in Hong Kong. The paper gives explicit instructions about how to stitch the seams, where the ruffles should go, and how much cloth should be used for each size of dress. During the 1980s, more and more brands and labels operated factories abroad to manufacture their wares with cheaper labor. This made it necessary to create guidelines and instructions for the overseas workers such as this ticket.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1999 - 2002
1999-2002
maker
Hot Kiss, Inc.
ID Number
2014.3041.04.14
accession number
2014.3041
catalog number
2014.3041.04.14
These are cutting and sewing instructions for the overseas manufacturing of a dress sold under the “Hot Kiss” label. The instructions date from June 27, 2002 and describe a dress with style number 126-5462 made in Hong Kong.
Description
These are cutting and sewing instructions for the overseas manufacturing of a dress sold under the “Hot Kiss” label. The instructions date from June 27, 2002 and describe a dress with style number 126-5462 made in Hong Kong. The paper gives explicit instructions about how to stitch the seams, where the ruffles should go, and how much cloth should be used for each size of dress. During the 1980s, more and more brands and labels operated factories abroad to manufacture their wares with cheaper labor. This made it necessary to create guidelines and instructions for the overseas workers such as this ticket.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1999 - 2002
1999-2002
maker
Hot Kiss, Inc.
ID Number
2014.3041.04.15
accession number
2014.3041
catalog number
2014.3041.04.15
Weather forecasting, like air traffic controlling, can at times be an unnerving occupation.
Description
Weather forecasting, like air traffic controlling, can at times be an unnerving occupation. Dramatic changes in weather patterns have the potential to affect millions of people, as do warnings issued by the National Weather Service, an arm of the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration.
Robert Ricks, chief NWS forecaster on duty at the Slidell, Louisiana weather station the morning of August 28, studied the computer maps of Hurricane Katrina's movement across the Gulf of Mexico. At 10:11 that morning, he quickly composed an urgent and unambiguous weather alert, what became the most accurate prediction of Katrina's impact. "A MOST POWERFUL HURRICANE WITH UNPRECEDENTED STRENGTH . . ." it began. "MOST OF THE AREA WILL BE UNINHABITABLE FOR WEEKS . . . PERHAPS LONGER . . . ALL GABLED ROOFS WILL FAIL . . . ALL WOOD-FRAMED LOW RISING APARTMENT BUILDINGS WILL BE DESTROYED . . . WATER SHORTAGES WILL MAKE HUMAN SUFFERING INCREDIBLE BY MODERN STANDARDS . . . NATIVE TREES WILL BE SNAPPED OR UPROOTED . . . LIVESTOCK LEFT EXPOSED TO THE WINDS WILL BE KILLED . . . "
To comfort him during his forecasting assignment that day, and in the chaotic days immediately after, Ricks carried this Catholic rosary given to him by his grandmother. He later donated it to the Smithsonian as a symbol of his own perilous journey through the arms of Hurricane Katrina.
Location
Currently not on view
Associated Date
August - September 2005
user
Ricks, Robert
referenced
National Weather Service
ID Number
2006.0220.01
accession number
2006.0220
catalog number
2006.0220.01
These are cutting and sewing instructions for the overseas manufacturing of a dress sold under the “Hot Kiss” label. The instructions date from June 27, 2002 and describe a dress with style number 126-5462 made in Hong Kong.
Description
These are cutting and sewing instructions for the overseas manufacturing of a dress sold under the “Hot Kiss” label. The instructions date from June 27, 2002 and describe a dress with style number 126-5462 made in Hong Kong. The paper gives explicit instructions about how to stitch the seams, where the ruffles should go, and how much cloth should be used for each size of dress. During the 1980s, more and more brands and labels operated factories abroad to manufacture their wares with cheaper labor. This made it necessary to create guidelines and instructions for the overseas workers such as this ticket.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1999 - 2002
1999-2002
maker
Hot Kiss, Inc.
ID Number
2014.3041.04.04
accession number
2014.3041
catalog number
2014.3041.04.04
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
2000s
ID Number
2011.0160.13
accession number
2011.0160
catalog number
2011.0160.13
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
2000s
ID Number
2011.0160.14
catalog number
2011.0160.14
accession number
2011.0160
These are cutting and sewing instructions for the overseas manufacturing of a dress sold under the “Hot Kiss” label. The instructions date from June 27, 2002 and describe a dress with style number 126-5462 made in Hong Kong.
Description
These are cutting and sewing instructions for the overseas manufacturing of a dress sold under the “Hot Kiss” label. The instructions date from June 27, 2002 and describe a dress with style number 126-5462 made in Hong Kong. The paper gives explicit instructions about how to stitch the seams, where the ruffles should go, and how much cloth should be used for each size of dress. During the 1980s, more and more brands and labels operated factories abroad to manufacture their wares with cheaper labor. This made it necessary to create guidelines and instructions for the overseas workers such as this ticket.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1999 - 2002
1999-2002
maker
Hot Kiss, Inc.
ID Number
2014.3041.04.08
catalog number
2014.3041.04.08
accession number
2014.3041
These are cutting and sewing instructions for the overseas manufacturing of a dress sold under the “Hot Kiss” label. The instructions date from June 27, 2002 and describe a dress with style number 126-5462 made in Hong Kong.
Description
These are cutting and sewing instructions for the overseas manufacturing of a dress sold under the “Hot Kiss” label. The instructions date from June 27, 2002 and describe a dress with style number 126-5462 made in Hong Kong. The paper gives explicit instructions about how to stitch the seams, where the ruffles should go, and how much cloth should be used for each size of dress. During the 1980s, more and more brands and labels operated factories abroad to manufacture their wares with cheaper labor. This made it necessary to create guidelines and instructions for the overseas workers such as this ticket.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1999 - 2002
1999-2002
maker
Hot Kiss, Inc.
ID Number
2014.3041.04.17
accession number
2014.3041
catalog number
2014.3041.04.17
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T.
Description
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T. Gratacap, a New York City luggage maker by trade, is often credited as the developer of this style of fire helmet. Gratacap created a specially treated leather helmet with a segmented “comb” design that led to unparalleled durability and strength. The elongated rear brim (also known as a duckbill or beavertail) and frontpiece were 19th century innovations that remain the most identifiable feature of firefighter’s helmets. The body of the helmet was primarily designed to deflect falling debris, the rear brim prevented water from running down firefighters’ backs, and their sturdy crowns could aid, if necessary, in breaking windows.
This leather fire helmet was manufactured by Cairns & Brother of New York, New York in the 19th century. The helmet has four large combs, with ribbed segments in between the main combs. An ivy-vine scrollwork pattern is stamped around the brim of the helmet. A metal eagle’s head is mounted on the crown of the helmet to serve as a frontpiece holder. The red leather frontpiece reads “EAGLE/2/HANOVER/PA.” The Eagle Company No. 2 of Hanover, Pennsylvania was founded in 1845.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
20th century
maker
Cairns & Brother
ID Number
2005.0233.0229
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.0229
These are cutting and sewing instructions for the overseas manufacturing of a dress sold under the “Hot Kiss” label. The instructions date from June 27, 2002 and describe a dress with style number 126-5462 made in Hong Kong.
Description
These are cutting and sewing instructions for the overseas manufacturing of a dress sold under the “Hot Kiss” label. The instructions date from June 27, 2002 and describe a dress with style number 126-5462 made in Hong Kong. The paper gives explicit instructions about how to stitch the seams, where the ruffles should go, and how much cloth should be used for each size of dress. During the 1980s, more and more brands and labels operated factories abroad to manufacture their wares with cheaper labor. This made it necessary to create guidelines and instructions for the overseas workers such as this ticket.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1999 - 2002
1999-2002
maker
Hot Kiss, Inc.
ID Number
2014.3041.04.02
catalog number
2014.3041.04.02
accession number
2014.3041
This evening dress was created by internationally renowned designer Oscar de la Renta in the fall of 2002 for the House of Balmain.Oscar de la Renta, born in 1932, was the son of a Dominican Republic insurance agent. He received his education in Santo Domingo and in Madrid.
Description
This evening dress was created by internationally renowned designer Oscar de la Renta in the fall of 2002 for the House of Balmain.
Oscar de la Renta, born in 1932, was the son of a Dominican Republic insurance agent. He received his education in Santo Domingo and in Madrid. While studying to become a painter, he began sketching for leading Spanish fashion houses to help pay for his studies. He first thought seriously about a career in fashion when he designed a debutante gown for the daughter of the U.S. Ambassador to Spain, John Cabot Lodge. Soon after a photograph of the dress appeared in Life magazine, he was given his first professional job at Eisa, Balenciaga’s couture house in Madrid. In 1961, de la Renta was hired by Antonio del Castillo as an assistant at the Lanvin-Castillo couture house in Paris. He moved to New York to design for the custom-made collection at Elizabeth Arden in 1963, and in 1965 he joined the wholesale house of Jane Derby and became a partner in the business. After Derby retired in 1967, de la Renta changed the name of the company to his own ready-to-wear label, producing feminine, romantic, and dramatic evening clothes as well as accessories and fragrances for both men and women.
In 1993, de la Renta was hired by the House of Balmain to design their couture collection. He was the first American designer since Mainbocher to design couture in Paris, France. De la Renta worked at Balmain for ten years while also running his own company in the United States. In 2002, this dress, which was from the final collection designed by Oscar de la Renta for the House of Balmain, was shown on the fashion runway in Paris and then worn by Lee Radziwell, Jacqueline Kennedy’s sister, to the American Friends of Versailles event at the United Nations in September of 2002. It was also loaned to the Metropolitan Museum of Arts Costume Institute for their exhibition “Goddess the Classical Mode” in 2003 before being donated to the Smithsonian in the fall of 2003 during a presentation called “An Evening with Oscar de la Renta.”
This two-piece dress is constructed of gilt cock feathers attached to a silk top and a gold lame skirt. The top is sleeveless with a wide bateau neckline formed with a band of small hand-clipped overlapping feathers horizontally placed from shoulder to shoulder, meeting at the center front and back. The remainder of the top is covered with small feathers vertically overlapping in graduated rows that end in three rows of larger feathers from the waist to the hip area. There is a center back nylon zipper opening with a hook-and-eye closure. The back and bust darts shape the fit of the top with a gold China silk lining. The skirt is a column of crimped and pleated silk lame that hangs straight at the sides, ending in a lettuce-edged bottom. An invisible left side zipper opening ends with a hook-and-eye closure at the waistline. A gold China silk fabric partially lines the skirt. A Balmain/Paris label is sewn to the inside lining at the left back neckline. The dress measures 19 1/8" at the center back of the top, 43 1/4" at the center back of the skirt, and 26" at the waistline of the skirt.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
2002
costume nmah
National Museum of American History. Division of Social History
designer
de la Renta, Oscar
used by
Radziwill, Lee
maker
Balmain, Pierre
ID Number
2003.0274.002
accession number
2003.0274
catalog number
2003.0274.002
These are cutting and sewing instructions for the overseas manufacturing of a dress sold under the “Hot Kiss” label. The instructions date from June 27, 2002 and describe a dress with style number 126-5462 made in Hong Kong.
Description
These are cutting and sewing instructions for the overseas manufacturing of a dress sold under the “Hot Kiss” label. The instructions date from June 27, 2002 and describe a dress with style number 126-5462 made in Hong Kong. The paper gives explicit instructions about how to stitch the seams, where the ruffles should go, and how much cloth should be used for each size of dress. During the 1980s, more and more brands and labels operated factories abroad to manufacture their wares with cheaper labor. This made it necessary to create guidelines and instructions for the overseas workers such as this ticket.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1999 - 2002
1999-2002
maker
Hot Kiss, Inc.
ID Number
2014.3041.04.10
accession number
2014.3041
catalog number
2014.3041.04.10

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