Clothing & Accessories

Work, play, fashion, economic class, religious faith, even politics—all these aspects of American life and more are woven into clothing. The Museum cares for one of the nation's foremost collections of men's, women's, and children's garments and accessories—from wedding gowns and military uniforms to Halloween costumes and bathing suits.

The collections include work uniforms, academic gowns, clothing of presidents and first ladies, T-shirts bearing protest slogans, and a clean-room "bunny suit" from a manufacturer of computer microchips. Beyond garments, the collections encompass jewelry, handbags, hair dryers, dress forms, hatboxes, suitcases, salesmen's samples, and thousands of fashion prints, photographs, and original illustrations. The more than 30,000 artifacts here represent the changing appearance of Americans from the 1700s to the present day.

The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T.
Description
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T. Gratacap, a New York City luggage maker by trade, is often credited as the developer of this style of fire helmet. Gratacap created a specially treated leather helmet with a segmented “comb” design that led to unparalleled durability and strength. The elongated rear brim (also known as a duckbill or beavertail) and frontpiece were 19th century innovations that remain the most identifiable feature of firefighter’s helmets. The body of the helmet was primarily designed to deflect falling debris, the rear brim prevented water from running down firefighters’ backs, and their sturdy crowns could aid, if necessary, in breaking windows.
This leather helmet was manufactured by Henry T. Gratacap of New York, New York in the mid 19th century. The helmet is painted red overall with its eight combs painted gold. A floral pattern is stamped into the brim of the hat, and the back brim has the date “1820” painted in black and gold. The back of the brim shows Gratacap’s maker’s stamp that reads “H.T. GRATACAP/143/Grand St. NY.” A metal eagle’s head serves as a frontpiece holder with a white leather frontpiece that reads “WASHINGTON/4/CPM.”
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1828
maker
Gratacap, Henry T.
ID Number
2005.0233.0198
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.0198
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T.
Description
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T. Gratacap, a New York City luggage maker by trade, is often credited as the developer of this style of fire helmet. Gratacap created a specially treated leather helmet with a segmented “comb” design that led to unparalleled durability and strength. The elongated rear brim (also known as a duckbill or beavertail) and frontpiece were 19th century innovations that remain the most identifiable feature of firefighter’s helmets. The body of the helmet was primarily designed to deflect falling debris, the rear brim prevented water from running down firefighters’ backs, and their sturdy crowns could aid, if necessary, in breaking windows.
This white leather helmet was made by Henry T. Gratacap of New York, New York around 1850. The helmet has eight combs and a metal frontpiece holder in the shape of a greyhound. A red felt sweatband with maker’s label is inside the crown. The helmet has an embossed floral design around the brim, and the date “1811” is painted in gold on the rear brim. The owner’s initials, “W.I.N.,” are painted in red on the rear brim’s underside.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1850
maker
Gratacap, Henry T.
ID Number
2005.0233.0174
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.0174
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T.
Description
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T. Gratacap, a New York City luggage maker by trade, is often credited as the developer of this style of fire helmet. Gratacap created a specially treated leather helmet with a segmented “comb” design that led to unparalleled durability and strength. The elongated rear brim (also known as a duckbill or beavertail) and frontpiece were 19th century innovations that remain the most identifiable feature of firefighter’s helmets. The body of the helmet was primarily designed to deflect falling debris, the rear brim prevented water from running down firefighters’ backs, and their sturdy crowns could aid, if necessary, in breaking windows.
This leather fire helmet was manufactured by H.T. Gratacap of New York, New York, in the early 19th century. The red helmet has eight combs that are painted gold. A scrolling pattern is stamped around the brim of the helmet, and Gratacap’s makers mark is stamped on the rear brim. The rear brim also has the date “1804” painted in gold with stylized sunbursts around it. A leather eagle’s head frontpiece holder is mounted on to the top of the helmet’s crown. The missing frontpiece makes attribution difficult, as there were several volunteer fire companies founded in 1804 in both Philadelphia and New York.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
19th century
maker
Gratacap, Henry T.
ID Number
2005.0233.0212
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.0212
The frontpiece (also known as shield or badge) of firefighting helmets has been a distinctive part of the American firefighter’s helmet since it was developed by Henry Gratacap in the early 19th century. These frontpieces displayed a variety of information.
Description (Brief)
The frontpiece (also known as shield or badge) of firefighting helmets has been a distinctive part of the American firefighter’s helmet since it was developed by Henry Gratacap in the early 19th century. These frontpieces displayed a variety of information. The fire company's name and number appeared, often alongside the city or town where it was based. The frontpiece could also include the owner's initials and rank. Most fire helmets had leather frontpieces, but frontpieces could also be made of metal, especially on presentation helmets or those worn in parades.
This leather frontpiece was made by Henry T. Gratacap of New York, New York between 1868 and 1869. The frontpiece is painted black, with painted gold lettering that reads “INSURANCE/1/PATROL/R.D.” Museum records note that the Insurance Patrol No. 1 Company was founded in 1869 and located on Little Boys Court in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1850-1900
maker
Gratacap, Henry T.
ID Number
2005.0233.1436
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.1436
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T.
Description
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T. Gratacap, a New York City luggage maker by trade, is often credited as the developer of this style of fire helmet. Gratacap created a specially treated leather helmet with a segmented “comb” design that led to unparalleled durability and strength. The elongated rear brim (also known as a duckbill or beavertail) and frontpiece were 19th century innovations that remain the most identifiable feature of firefighter’s helmets. The body of the helmet was primarily designed to deflect falling debris, the rear brim prevented water from running down firefighters’ backs, and their sturdy crowns could aid, if necessary, in breaking windows.
This leather fire helmet was made by Henry T. Gratacap of New York, New York in the mid- 19th century. The helmet is painted black overall with the four combs painted gold, thin gold triangles in the crown’s sections, and a red painted underbrim. A rosette pattern is embossed around the helmet’s brim, with the date “1819” painted in gold on the rear brim. Gratacap’s maker’s mark is stamped between the 8 and 1 if the date. A leather eagle serves as a frontpiece holder emerging from the crown of the helmet. The black leather frontpiece reads “READING HOSE/1/INStd/JULY 4th/1819.” The Reading Hose Company No. 1 of Reading, Pennsylvania was founded on July 4th, 1819 for the purpose of purchasing hose since the town had only bucket companies at the time.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
early 19th century
maker
Gratacap, Henry T.
ID Number
2005.0233.0185
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.0185
The frontpiece (also known as shield or badge) of firefighting helmets has been a distinctive part of the American firefighter’s helmet since it was developed by Henry Gratacap in the early 19th century. These frontpieces displayed a variety of information.
Description (Brief)
The frontpiece (also known as shield or badge) of firefighting helmets has been a distinctive part of the American firefighter’s helmet since it was developed by Henry Gratacap in the early 19th century. These frontpieces displayed a variety of information. The fire company's name and number appeared, often alongside the city or town where it was based. The frontpiece could also include the owner's initials and rank. Most fire helmets had leather frontpieces, but frontpieces could also be made of metal, especially on presentation helmets or those worn in parades.
This leather frontpiece was made by Henry T. Gratacap of New York, New York during the 19th century. The brown leather frontpiece has an upper banner with raised white leather lettering that reads “FRANKLIN.” The large recessed white leather Roman numeral “VII” is in the center of the piece. At the bottom of the frontpiece is a cartouche with a blue background that has the raised white leather initials “EDL” inside.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
unknown
maker
Gratacap, Henry T.
ID Number
2005.0233.1481
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.1481
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T.
Description
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T. Gratacap, a New York City luggage maker by trade, is often credited as the developer of this style of fire helmet. Gratacap created a specially treated leather helmet with a segmented “comb” design that led to unparalleled durability and strength. The elongated rear brim (also known as a duckbill or beavertail) and frontpiece were 19th century innovations that remain the most identifiable feature of firefighter’s helmets. The body of the helmet was primarily designed to deflect falling debris, the rear brim prevented water from running down firefighters’ backs, and their sturdy crowns could aid, if necessary, in breaking windows.
This leather fire helmet was made by Henry T. Gratacap of New York, New York n the early 19th Century. The green hat has eight combs that are painted gold. The back of the hat has the text “FA” above the date “1819” on the rear brim. The FA likely refers to the Fire Association of Philadelphia, an insurance company founded by a group of eleven volunteer engine companies and five volunteer hose companies that incorporated in 1819. A metal eagle is mounted to the top of the helmet’s crown to serve as a frontpiece holder, but the frontpiece is missing from this helmet.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1850-1860
maker
Gratacap, Henry T.
ID Number
2005.0233.0211
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.0211
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T.
Description
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T. Gratacap, a New York City luggage maker by trade, is often credited as the developer of this style of fire helmet. Gratacap created a specially treated leather helmet with a segmented “comb” design that led to unparalleled durability and strength. The elongated rear brim (also known as a duckbill or beavertail) and frontpiece were 19th century innovations that remain the most identifiable feature of firefighter’s helmets. The body of the helmet was primarily designed to deflect falling debris, the rear brim prevented water from running down firefighters’ backs, and their sturdy crowns could aid, if necessary, in breaking windows.
This leather fire helmet was made by Henry T. Gratacap of New York, New York in the early 19th century. The hat has eight combs, an embossed ivy-vine design around the brim of the helmet, and a metal eagle frontpiece holder mounted to the crown of the helmet. The leather frontpiece reads “FOREMAN/ENGINE/1/CHF.”
Location
Currently not on view
maker
Gratacap, Henry T.
ID Number
2005.0233.0156
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.0156

Our collection database is a work in progress. We may update this record based on further research and review. Learn more about our approach to sharing our collection online.

If you would like to know how you can use content on this page, see the Smithsonian's Terms of Use. If you need to request an image for publication or other use, please visit Rights and Reproductions.