Clothing & Accessories

Women's Gown (cheong sam) ca. 1930

Work, play, fashion, economic class, religious faith, even politics—all these aspects of American life and more are woven into clothing. The Museum cares for one of the nation's foremost collections of men's, women's, and children's garments and accessories—from wedding gowns and military uniforms to Halloween costumes and bathing suits.

The collections include work uniforms, academic gowns, clothing of presidents and first ladies, T-shirts bearing protest slogans, and a clean-room "bunny suit" from a manufacturer of computer microchips. Beyond garments, the collections encompass jewelry, handbags, hair dryers, dress forms, hatboxes, suitcases, salesmen's samples, and thousands of fashion prints, photographs, and original illustrations. The more than 30,000 artifacts here represent the changing appearance of Americans from the 1700s to the present day.

Date: 1930s

Elizabeth Arden Velva Leg Film, Sun Copper

While leg makeup was commercially available since the 1920s, it wasn't until rationing was introduced during the Second World War that leg makeup became an essential commodity for many American women.Silk and nylon became virtually unatainable, so, unable to procure silk or nylon
Description
While leg makeup was commercially available since the 1920s, it wasn't until rationing was introduced during the Second World War that leg makeup became an essential commodity for many American women.
Silk and nylon became virtually unatainable, so, unable to procure silk or nylon stockings, many women resorted to painting their legs with products such as this Velva Leg Film. Some industrious ladies even painted black lines down the back of their legs to mimic the seams of hosiery.
Velva Leg film was manufactured in the Nineteen Forties by Elizabeth Arden, a Canadian-born American businesswoman known for her beauty salons and cosmetic products.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1943
product launch
1933
maker
Elizabeth Arden Inc.
ID Number
1985.0481.384
catalog number
1985.0481.384
accession number
1985.0481

Belt worn by Ray Bolger in the role of the Scarecrow in The Wizard of Oz

Ray Bolger wore this patchwork outfit as the Scarecrow, one of the trio of friends who accompany Dorothy to the Emerald City in The Wizard of Oz.Designed by Adrian, MGM's premier costume artist, the straw-stuffed clothing fit loosely enough so that Bolger could perform his comedi
Description
Ray Bolger wore this patchwork outfit as the Scarecrow, one of the trio of friends who accompany Dorothy to the Emerald City in The Wizard of Oz.
Designed by Adrian, MGM's premier costume artist, the straw-stuffed clothing fit loosely enough so that Bolger could perform his comedic dance number, "If I Only Had a Brain." A sponge-rubber mask, resembling burlap, completed the Scarecrow's costume. Under the hot lights on the set, the mask was stifling, and it frequently had to be replaced.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1939
user
Bolger, Ray
designer
Adrian
ID Number
1987.0608.06
accession number
1987.0608
catalog number
1987.0608.06

Buckle

A belt buckle made of brown celluloid and decorated with rhinestones and bars of black celluloid. The style is Art Moderne. It is unmarked.Currently not on view
Description (Brief)
A belt buckle made of brown celluloid and decorated with rhinestones and bars of black celluloid. The style is Art Moderne. It is unmarked.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1930
ID Number
2006.0098.1731
accession number
2006.0098
catalog number
2006.0098.1731

Art Moderne powder box

A powder box, round, with a lid made of black and white laminated celluloid. The box is glass. An Art Moderne design, part of which is a metal shield-shaped insert, on the lid. The box is unmarked.Currently not on view
Description (Brief)
A powder box, round, with a lid made of black and white laminated celluloid. The box is glass. An Art Moderne design, part of which is a metal shield-shaped insert, on the lid. The box is unmarked.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1920-1935
ID Number
2006.0098.0904
accession number
2006.0098
catalog number
2006.0098.0904

Boots worn by Ray Bolger in the role of the Scarecrow in The Wizard of Oz

Ray Bolger wore this patchwork outfit as the Scarecrow, one of the trio of friends who accompany Dorothy to the Emerald City in The Wizard of Oz.Designed by Adrian, MGM's premier costume artist, the straw-stuffed clothing fit loosely enough so that Bolger could perform his comedi
Description
Ray Bolger wore this patchwork outfit as the Scarecrow, one of the trio of friends who accompany Dorothy to the Emerald City in The Wizard of Oz.
Designed by Adrian, MGM's premier costume artist, the straw-stuffed clothing fit loosely enough so that Bolger could perform his comedic dance number, "If I Only Had a Brain." A sponge-rubber mask, resembling burlap, completed the Scarecrow's costume. Under the hot lights on the set, the mask was stifling, and it frequently had to be replaced.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1939
user
Bolger, Ray
designer
Adrian
ID Number
1987.0608.05
accession number
1987.0608
catalog number
1987.0608.05

dress, woman's

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
c. 1935
ID Number
1992.0620.12
catalog number
1992.0620.12
accession number
1992.0620

Scarecrow Costume

Ray Bolger wore this patchwork outfit as the Scarecrow, one of the trio of friends who accompany Dorothy to the Emerald City in The Wizard of Oz.Designed by Adrian, MGM's premier costume artist, the straw-stuffed clothing fit loosely enough so that Bolger could perform his comedi
Description
Ray Bolger wore this patchwork outfit as the Scarecrow, one of the trio of friends who accompany Dorothy to the Emerald City in The Wizard of Oz.
Designed by Adrian, MGM's premier costume artist, the straw-stuffed clothing fit loosely enough so that Bolger could perform his comedic dance number, "If I Only Had a Brain." A sponge-rubber mask, resembling burlap, completed the Scarecrow's costume. Under the hot lights on the set, the mask was stifling, and it frequently had to be replaced.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1939
user
Bolger, Ray
designer
Adrian
ID Number
1987.0608.11
accession number
1987.0608
catalog number
1987.0608.11

Experimental stockings

In 1928, the E. I. DuPont de Nemours Co. hired Wallace Carothers Ph. to conduct pure research in any area of chemistry he chose. His interest was in the construction of long chain polymers, similar to those found in nature.
Description
In 1928, the E. I. DuPont de Nemours Co. hired Wallace Carothers Ph. to conduct pure research in any area of chemistry he chose. His interest was in the construction of long chain polymers, similar to those found in nature. There was no product in mind when he and his team began their work, they simply wanted to learn as much about large molecules as possible. The work done by Carothers and his team lead to the discovery of polyesters and polyamides. DuPont went with the polyamides, and nylon was born. It was the first fiber produced entirely in the laboratory, and was introduced to the public in the form of women's stockings at the 1939 World's Fair. Nylon stockings went on sale May 15, 1940, and were a smashing success. Prior to the production of nylon stockings, American women wore stockings made of silk or rayon. By 1942, nylon stockings were taking twenty percent of the stocking market. With U.S. entry into World War Two, nylon was declared a defense material and withdrawn from the civilian market. Nylon's most famous use during the war was as a replacement for silk in parachutes. However, it was also used in ropes, netting, tire cord, and dozens of other items. So many uses were found for nylon that some referred to it as the "fiber that won the war." When the war ended, nylon stockings were brought back and quickly replaced silk and rayon in the stocking market.
This is the first pair of experimental nylon stockings made by Union Hosiery Company for Du Pont in 1937. The leg of the stocking is nylon, the upper welt, toe, and heel are silk, and cotton is found in the seam. The nylon section of the stocking would not take the silk dye, and dyed to black instead of brown.
Date made
ca 1937
1937
maker
Union Hosiery Co.
ID Number
TE.T12049
accession number
227591
catalog number
T12049

"Tom Mix" Style Cowboy Hat

This "Tom Mix" style cowboy hat made by the John B. Stetson Company dates from 1910 to 1930. The huge ten-gallon Stetson hat was Tom Mix's trademark.
Description
This "Tom Mix" style cowboy hat made by the John B. Stetson Company dates from 1910 to 1930. The huge ten-gallon Stetson hat was Tom Mix's trademark. He was the top cowboy movie star of American silent films, known for his daring stunts and his equally famous elaborate cowboy outfits. More than any other star before 1930, Tom Mix had great influence on western wear.
Tom Mix was born on January 6, 1880 in Mix Run, Pennsylvania. His given name was Thomas Hezikiah Mix, but when he enlisted in the Army in April 1898, he listed his name as Thomas E. Mix. Mix appeared in over three hundred western films until his movie career ended when silent films were replaced by talking films. He then worked in rodeos and circuses until his death in 1940 from a freak automobile accident.
The average cowboy wore a hat called a "JB," which stood for John B. Stetson, a hatter who started his company in 1865. He built one of America's most well known and successful businesses and created hats that stood for innovation, quality, and durability. This cowboy hat is one of the styles that the John B. Stetson Company was known for producing. It is made of an off-white felt with a matching ribbon band and measures seven inches high by fourteen inches wide by eighteen inches deep.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1910 - 1930
maker
Stetson
ID Number
CS.112055.001
catalog number
112055.001
accession number
112055

Clutch purse

A cream celluloid clutch purse with an attached change purse inside. The clasp is a solid piece of yellow celluloid. The purse is lined with satin, and has a short leather strap on the back. It has no maker's marks.Currently not on view
Description (Brief)
A cream celluloid clutch purse with an attached change purse inside. The clasp is a solid piece of yellow celluloid. The purse is lined with satin, and has a short leather strap on the back. It has no maker's marks.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1930
ID Number
2006.0098.1449
catalog number
2006.0098.1449
accession number
2006.0098

Celluloid Comb

A celluloid novelty comb in the shape of a penguin. The penguin's head pulls out to reveal a comb made of imitation tortoiseshell. The holder is marked "France" and "Alain Saint . . ."Celluloid comb in a delightful penguin-shaped case.
Description (Brief)
A celluloid novelty comb in the shape of a penguin. The penguin's head pulls out to reveal a comb made of imitation tortoiseshell. The holder is marked "France" and "Alain Saint . . ."
Description
Celluloid comb in a delightful penguin-shaped case. The “Alain / Saint-Joanis” inscription refers to a French design firm that began in business in 1876.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1930
ID Number
2006.0098.1719
accession number
2006.0098
catalog number
2006.0098.1719

Art Moderne hand mirror

A hand mirror made of black and white laminated celluloid. On the mirror back is an Art Moderne design, part of which is a metal, shield-shaped insert. The mirror is unmarked.Currently not on view
Description (Brief)
A hand mirror made of black and white laminated celluloid. On the mirror back is an Art Moderne design, part of which is a metal, shield-shaped insert. The mirror is unmarked.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1920-1935
ID Number
2006.0098.0918
accession number
2006.0098
catalog number
2006.0098.0918

Union Cap

This International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union (ILGWU) cap, dates from around 1933.
Description
This International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union (ILGWU) cap, dates from around 1933.
Date made
ca 1933
referenced
International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union
ID Number
1986.0710.0037
accession number
1986.0710
catalog number
1986.0710.0037

Shoehorn

Shoehorn in the shape of a woman's leg. Made of laminated sheets of celluloid, its top sheet is orange and hand-painted with a red sock and black shoe. The back is the glittery Goldalure celluloid, developed in the mid-1920s.Currently not on view
Description (Brief)
Shoehorn in the shape of a woman's leg. Made of laminated sheets of celluloid, its top sheet is orange and hand-painted with a red sock and black shoe. The back is the glittery Goldalure celluloid, developed in the mid-1920s.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1925-1930
ID Number
2006.0098.1584
catalog number
2006.0098.1584
accession number
2006.0098

Wedding Dress made from World War II Silk Parachute

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
November 15, 1945
date made
November 1945
user
Bourland, Rosalie H.
maker
Hierholzer, Lora
Hierholzer, Lora
ID Number
2004.0207.001
accession number
2004.0207
catalog number
2004.0207.001

Hair Brush with Celluloid Handle and Back

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1920-1935
ID Number
2006.0098.0903
accession number
2006.0098
catalog number
2006.0098.0903

bracelet

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1943
maker
Borino, Albert N.
ID Number
2010.0049.01
catalog number
2010.0049.01
accession number
2010.0049

Pocket Knife with Celluloid Cover

A pocket knife with two blades made of ferrous metal. A sheet of cream celluloid is attached to each side with rivets. There is no maker's label, but the knife was likely a souvenir from the coronation of King George V or King George VI of England.
Description (Brief)
A pocket knife with two blades made of ferrous metal. A sheet of cream celluloid is attached to each side with rivets. There is no maker's label, but the knife was likely a souvenir from the coronation of King George V or King George VI of England. It reads "Coronation Souvenir" and bears the image of a crown with a G and an R on either side. "GR" could be the royal cypher of either king, as it stands for "George Rex."
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1911-1937
ID Number
2006.0098.1373
catalog number
2006.0098.1373
accession number
2006.0098

Woman's Dress, 1936

Mrs. Bertrand Cohn purchased this "Delphos" dress in Paris in 1936. When she returned to New York, she wore it to the Metropolitan Opera with silver shoes and a diamond necklace.
Description
Mrs. Bertrand Cohn purchased this "Delphos" dress in Paris in 1936. When she returned to New York, she wore it to the Metropolitan Opera with silver shoes and a diamond necklace. She later donated the dress to the Smithsonian.
The designer, Mariano Fortuny, was born in Granada, Spain, in 1871 to a family of artists. After his father’s death in 1874, the Fortunys lived in Paris and Spain and eventually settled in Venice, Italy. Inspired by his surroundings and encouraged by his family, Mariano became a painter. Fortuny's artistic interest covered a range of creative endeavors, from sculpture, photography, and interior design to stage and set design and stage lighting. His interest in dyes and chemistry led him to textile and costume design, for which he is best known today.
Influenced by Orientalism and neoclassicism, Fortuny created lush and decorative fabrics. Using a mixture of hand and screen printing to decorate the fabrics allowed him the freedom to experiment and design. His most famous design was the "Delphos," a classic pleated tea gown he began making around 1907 and continued until his death. Named after a Greek classical sculpture, the Delphos dress was a simple column of vertical pleats permanently set in silk by a process never successfully duplicated. Fortuny considered his dress concepts to be inventions, and in 1909 he patented the pleating process and the machine he invented and copy-righted the design of the dress. These dresses were meant to be stored by rolling them lengthwise, twisting them into a ball and placing them in an oval miniature hat box (we have the one that came with this dress), thus preserving the pleats and keeping the shape of the dress.
Avant-garde American dancers Isadora Duncan and Ruth St. Denis wore Fortunys because of their interest in the body and movement. Originally made to be worn as teas gowns for entertaining at home, the gowns were seen outside the home by the 1930s.
This two-piece tubular cut tea gown is constructed of a finely pleated rose-colored silk. It is full length with openings at the side seams to form armholes. The wide scoop neckline has a drawstring encased along the inside edge, and there are two rows of stitching on either side of the shoulder seams. Silk cording evenly threaded with yellow glass beads with black and red stripes is stitched along the side seams and the armhole edges. The separate belt is made of rose-colored silk painted with a silver metallic pattern of trailing oak leaves and dots.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1936
user
Mrs. Bertrand W. Cohn
designer
Fortuny, Mariano
ID Number
CS.322625.002
catalog number
322625.002
accession number
322625
322625

Circa 1930 Women's Gown (cheong sam)

The donor, Virginia Lee, posed in a similar cheong sam for a US World War II poster and for the "Miss China" contest in New York.
Description
The donor, Virginia Lee, posed in a similar cheong sam for a US World War II poster and for the "Miss China" contest in New York. Also known as a qu pao, the Chinese traditional loose dress shape was modified by Western designers in the 1920's to be more close-fitting to accentuate a woman's figure. The altered dress form became broadly popular in the United States as evening wear in the late 1950's and 1960's.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1930
user
Mead, Virginia Lee
maker
unknown
ID Number
1992.0620.16
catalog number
1992.0620.16
accession number
1992.0620

Cuff worn by Ray Bolger in the role of the Scarecrow in The Wizard of Oz

Ray Bolger wore this patchwork outfit as the Scarecrow, one of the trio of friends who accompany Dorothy to the Emerald City in The Wizard of Oz.Designed by Adrian, MGM's premier costume artist, the straw-stuffed clothing fit loosely enough so that Bolger could perform his comedi
Description
Ray Bolger wore this patchwork outfit as the Scarecrow, one of the trio of friends who accompany Dorothy to the Emerald City in The Wizard of Oz.
Designed by Adrian, MGM's premier costume artist, the straw-stuffed clothing fit loosely enough so that Bolger could perform his comedic dance number, "If I Only Had a Brain." A sponge-rubber mask, resembling burlap, completed the Scarecrow's costume. Under the hot lights on the set, the mask was stifling, and it frequently had to be replaced.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1939
user
Bolger, Ray
designer
Adrian
ID Number
1987.0608.04
accession number
1987.0608
catalog number
1987.0608.04

Scarecrow Costume

Ray Bolger wore this patchwork outfit as the Scarecrow, one of the trio of friends who accompany Dorothy to the Emerald City in The Wizard of Oz.
Description
Ray Bolger wore this patchwork outfit as the Scarecrow, one of the trio of friends who accompany Dorothy to the Emerald City in The Wizard of Oz.
date made
1939
user
Bolger, Ray
designer
Adrian
ID Number
COLL.1987.0608
accession number
1987.0608
catalog number
1987.0608.01
1987.0608.02
1987.0608.03
1987.0608.04
1987.0608.05
1987.0608.06
1987.0608.07
1987.0608.08
1987.0608.09
1987.0608.10
1987.0608.11

Elephant pin

A pin made of ivory-colored celluloid in the shape of a running elephant. Rhinestones dot the elephant's back and its eye is also a rhinestone. In the Art Moderne style. There are no markings.Currently not on view
Description (Brief)
A pin made of ivory-colored celluloid in the shape of a running elephant. Rhinestones dot the elephant's back and its eye is also a rhinestone. In the Art Moderne style. There are no markings.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1920-1935
ID Number
2006.0098.0808
accession number
2006.0098
catalog number
2006.0098.0808

Collar worn by Ray Bolger in the role of the Scarecrow in The Wizard of Oz

Ray Bolger wore this patchwork outfit as the Scarecrow, one of the trio of friends who accompany Dorothy to the Emerald City in The Wizard of Oz.Designed by Adrian, MGM's premier costume artist, the straw-stuffed clothing fit loosely enough so that Bolger could perform his comedi
Description
Ray Bolger wore this patchwork outfit as the Scarecrow, one of the trio of friends who accompany Dorothy to the Emerald City in The Wizard of Oz.
Designed by Adrian, MGM's premier costume artist, the straw-stuffed clothing fit loosely enough so that Bolger could perform his comedic dance number, "If I Only Had a Brain." A sponge-rubber mask, resembling burlap, completed the Scarecrow's costume. Under the hot lights on the set, the mask was stifling, and it frequently had to be replaced.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1939
user
Bolger, Ray
designer
Adrian
ID Number
1987.0608.08
accession number
1987.0608
catalog number
1987.0608.08

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