Clothing & Accessories

Work, play, fashion, economic class, religious faith, even politics—all these aspects of American life and more are woven into clothing. The Museum cares for one of the nation's foremost collections of men's, women's, and children's garments and accessories—from wedding gowns and military uniforms to Halloween costumes and bathing suits.

The collections include work uniforms, academic gowns, clothing of presidents and first ladies, T-shirts bearing protest slogans, and a clean-room "bunny suit" from a manufacturer of computer microchips. Beyond garments, the collections encompass jewelry, handbags, hair dryers, dress forms, hatboxes, suitcases, salesmen's samples, and thousands of fashion prints, photographs, and original illustrations. The more than 30,000 artifacts here represent the changing appearance of Americans from the 1700s to the present day.

This dress, designed by the House of Worth, was worn by Alice Jane Earl Stuart, who was born in Lafayette, Indiana on October 23, 1850 to Adams Earl and Martha Jane Hawkins.
Description
This dress, designed by the House of Worth, was worn by Alice Jane Earl Stuart, who was born in Lafayette, Indiana on October 23, 1850 to Adams Earl and Martha Jane Hawkins. Her father was a wealthy man and very important in the history and development of Lafayette, becoming president of the Lafayette and Chicago Railroad Company. At age 17, Alice left home to attend the Rockland Female Institute in Nyack, New York. On December 20, 1876, she married Charles Benedict Stuart, who became the founder of the Stuart law firm in Lafayette, Indiana. Their only child died at birth. The Stuarts were very wealthy as well, and Alice was one of the most prominent women of Lafayette and Tippecanoe County, working for many organizations of social welfare and improvement.
From surviving letters Alice wrote to her parents from school, she mentioned how important clothing was to her. As evidenced by this Worth dress, Alice was said to have a preoccupation with stylish apparel. Alice visited a cousin in Washington, DC on several occasions and attended a reception at the White House on one trip. She also traveled abroad many times, and it was probably during one of these trips that she had this dress made to order from the House of Worth, which was famous for creating beautiful gowns such as this one. Charles Frederick Worth was notable for his use of lavish fabrics and trimmings, and his son Jean-Phillippe, who followed the same aesthetics as his father, may have designed this dress. Alice Earl Stuart died on July 27, 1937 at Earlhurst, her family home in Lafayette. Although Earlhurst has not survived, this portrait of a young Alice Jane Earl Stuart is in the hands of a local doctor who owns the land that belonged to the Earls.
The House of Worth, which was the longest running fashion dynasty and the arbiter of women’s fashions for more than a century, was founded by Charles Frederick Worth, who was born in Lincolnshire, England on October 13, 1824. As a young man, Worth worked as an apprentice and clerk for two textile merchants. He relocated to Paris in 1845, and in 1858 he co-established his own dressmaking salon, Maison Worth at 7 rue de la Paix, Paris. Although his sons, Gaston-Lucien and Jean-Philippe, took over their father’s business after his death on March 10, 1895, they had been an indispensable part of the House of Worth long before he died. In 1954, the couture house was sold to Pacquin, and the name continued until the 1970s. Parfums Worth, which was created in the early twentieth century, is still in business. Besides dressing royalty and famous actresses, Worth was immensely popular among wealthy American patrons.
This elegant two-piece dress is constructed of pink satin and brocaded silk. The bodice of pink silk satin has a square neckline in front that is rounded at the back. The center front portion of the bodice is covered with pink chiffon, and four pleated chiffon ruffles with a lace ruffle inserted between two of them frame the neckline in front and extend down to the center front of the bodice. Additional ruffles are inserted at the back neckline to form a multi-layered ruffled collar effect. Reveres are cut in one piece with the bodice fronts using the fabric selvedge as the reveres edge. The reveres, similar to lapels, are covered with net and lace appliqué with decorative rhinestones. The bodice has side seams and is cut in three parts at the back. The back is covered with the same lace as the reveres. The short satin sleeves that are lined with pink satin are extremely full and pleated into the armholes with fullness at the top of the sleeve created by elaborate folding of the fabric. The sleeve openings are trimmed with three pleated chiffon ruffles tacked to the sleeves at intervals to form a decorative trim. A wide ruche of pink velvet lined with pink taffeta forms a cummerbund effect at the lower edge of the bodice closing at the left front. Two decorative velvet bows trim the closure. All inside bodice seams are finished and boned, with additional boning at the center front and either side of the center front. The center front of the bodice closes with metal hooks and eyes. This pictured label with the words “PARIS C Worth PARIS” is woven into an inner waistband tacked to the inside boning at the back waistline. The gored skirt of brocaded silk satin is slightly trained at the back, with box pleats creating fullness at the center back. A back opening closes with a large hook-and-eye. The skirt is completely lined with pink taffeta with a stiff interlining and an additional partial pink taffeta lining that is narrower than the skirt and tacked to the seams. A pink dust ruffle finishes the hemline.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1893 - 1901
1893-1901
maker
Worth
used by
Stuart, Alice Jane Earl
maker
Worth
ID Number
CS.264090.001
catalog number
264090.001
There is no information as to who wore this dress.Cotton dresses such as this one were often advertised at the end of the nineteenth century and the beginning of the twentieth century as “wash dresses,” as they were easily laundered.
Description
There is no information as to who wore this dress.
Cotton dresses such as this one were often advertised at the end of the nineteenth century and the beginning of the twentieth century as “wash dresses,” as they were easily laundered. While this dress could have been ready-made, most likely it was made at home. Although it is relatively simple in construction, the maker took care to add decorative details such as the bias appliqués and the self-covered buttons, neither of which served any structural need but simply made the dress more stylish. The dress is shown with a cotton apron that was typical for the period and the kind of apron that a woman might have worn for doing light household tasks.
This one-piece dress is constructed of a black and white plaid cotton. The bodice has a high stand collar trimmed with a band of embroidered white cotton that closes with three pearl buttons. The center front opening in the bodice has twelve pearl buttons on the right side and worked buttonholes on the left side. Tucks in the bodice at center front run from the neckline to the waistline, and tucks starting at the shoulders release part way down into the bodice front. The bodice back has shirring at the waist to control the fullness with a bias strip, trimmed with four self-covered buttons, applied vertically at the center back. A cummerbund effect is created at the waist with a wide bias band that is attached to the skirt but loose from the bodice at the upper edge. The lightly boned waistband closes with two pearl buttons. The long, narrow sleeves have the fullness controlled at the wrists by tucks. A self-bias band is applied to the outer portion of the sleeves, which come to a point at the lower edge and are trimmed with two self-covered buttons. The wrist openings of the sleeves are edged with embroidered white cotton. The skirt section has a center front placket opening with eight hooks-and-eyes for closure. Tucks extend from the waist, releasing at the lower hip area. Two bias bands are applied at the lower skirt with a fold over hem. The dress is unlined, and the seam edges are raw on the inside.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1900-1905
maker
unknown
ID Number
1986.0202.11
accession number
1986.0202
catalog number
1986.0202.11
Darned filet lace flounce in 17th or 18th Century style, but probably made during 19th C. Unusual straight netting. Finished on all sides.Currently not on view
Description (Brief)
Darned filet lace flounce in 17th or 18th Century style, but probably made during 19th C. Unusual straight netting. Finished on all sides.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
early 19th century
Associated Name
Pinchot, Mary Eno
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.L6510
catalog number
L6510.000
accession number
48717
113420
The frontpiece (also known as shield or badge) of firefighting helmets has been a distinctive part of the American firefighter’s helmet since it was developed by Henry Gratacap in the early 19th century. These frontpieces displayed a variety of information.
Description (Brief)
The frontpiece (also known as shield or badge) of firefighting helmets has been a distinctive part of the American firefighter’s helmet since it was developed by Henry Gratacap in the early 19th century. These frontpieces displayed a variety of information. The fire company's name and number appeared, often alongside the city or town where it was based. The frontpiece could also include the owner's initials and rank. Most fire helmets had leather frontpieces, but frontpieces could also be made of metal, especially on presentation helmets or those worn in parades.
This leather frontpiece was made in the 19th century. The white leather frontpiece has decorative etching radiating from a black star in the center of the piece. Two red banners have raised white leather lettering that reads “ENGINEER/CHARLESTOWN.” A black cartouche at the bottom of the piece has the raised white leather initials “WFD” inside.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
19th century
maker
unknown
ID Number
2005.0233.1480
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.1480
A sample book of machine-made lace, French, 2nd half 19th century. From: J. Gaillard, Pere et Fils. Saint-Pierre-lez-Calais, France. Blue cloth covered volume, 19.25” L x 12” W x ¾” D; Embossed gold lettering and border on front cover.
Description
A sample book of machine-made lace, French, 2nd half 19th century. From: J. Gaillard, Pere et Fils. Saint-Pierre-lez-Calais, France. Blue cloth covered volume, 19.25” L x 12” W x ¾” D; Embossed gold lettering and border on front cover. Interior of 26 blue paper leaves with pasted in samples of machine-made lace in various styles, sizes, mostly black or white. More than one sample per page; each paper leaf has samples on both sides. Each sample has a small paper tag in the upper right corner with a style number and price per yard. Exquisite examples of Leavers-machine made lace trimmings for apparel and furnishing uses. The U.S. Leavers lace industry grew after the tariff on imported Leavers machines was removed for several months by the Payne-Aldrich Tariff of 1909.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1850-1899
1850-1900
ID Number
2015.0324.01
accession number
2015.0324
catalog number
2015.0324.01
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T.
Description
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T. Gratacap, a New York City luggage maker by trade, is often credited as the developer of this style of fire helmet. Gratacap created a specially treated leather helmet with a segmented “comb” design that led to unparalleled durability and strength. The elongated rear brim (also known as a duckbill or beavertail) and frontpiece were 19th century innovations that remain the most identifiable feature of firefighter’s helmets. The body of the helmet was primarily designed to deflect falling debris, the rear brim prevented water from running down firefighters’ backs, and their sturdy crowns could aid, if necessary, in breaking windows.
This leather fire helmet was made by Cairns & Brother of New York, New York during the late19th century. The helmet consists of 64 combs and is painted white. There is an ivy vine scroll pattern around the brim and a small metal frontpiece on the rear brim that is engraved. A metal eagle’s head frontpiece holder is mounted on the top of the helmet’s crown. The gold leather frontpiece has a central image of a steam powered fire engine, with the text “CHIEF/ENGINEER/P.F.D.” The helmet belonged to John Stagg of the Paterson, New Jersey fire department. Stagg served as Chief Engineer of the Volunteer Fire Department from 1887 until 1889, and was made chief of the paid Paterson Fire Department in 1891.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
late 19th century
maker
Cairns & Brother
ID Number
2005.0233.0207
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.0207
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T.
Description
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T. Gratacap, a New York City luggage maker by trade, is often credited as the developer of this style of fire helmet. Gratacap created a specially treated leather helmet with a segmented “comb” design that led to unparalleled durability and strength. The elongated rear brim (also known as a duckbill or beavertail) and frontpiece were 19th century innovations that remain the most identifiable feature of firefighter’s helmets. The body of the helmet was primarily designed to deflect falling debris, the rear brim prevented water from running down firefighters’ backs, and their sturdy crowns could aid, if necessary, in breaking windows.
This leather fire helmet was made by John M. Migeod & Son of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania in the mid-19th century. The brown leather helmet has eight combs that are painted gold, and a metal fox frontpiece holder mounted on the crown. The leather around the rim has peeled away leaving the reinforced metal wire exposed. The white frontpiece has decorative stitching around the outer part of the frontpiece, the white number “3” in the center of a red background, a red banner at the top that reads “RESOLUTION” and a black banner at the bottom that reads “HOSE” in pale white leather. Founded in 1804 as the Resolution Hose Company No. 3, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, it operated as a hose company until 1855, when it refused to join the newly organized Philadelphia Fire Department, which, although volunteer, was under the administrative and financial control of the city. In 1865 it was admitted into the Philadelphia Fire Department and acquired a steam fire engine in 1869. It operated as the Resolution Hose and Steam Fire Engine Company No.3 until 1871 when Philadelphia’s paid firefighting department was established.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
19th century
maker
John M. Migoed & Son
ID Number
2005.0233.0186
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.0186
The frontpiece (also known as shield or badge) of firefighting helmets has been a distinctive part of the American firefighter’s helmet since it was developed by Henry Gratacap in the early 19th century. These frontpieces displayed a variety of information.
Description (Brief)
The frontpiece (also known as shield or badge) of firefighting helmets has been a distinctive part of the American firefighter’s helmet since it was developed by Henry Gratacap in the early 19th century. These frontpieces displayed a variety of information. The fire company's name and number appeared, often alongside the city or town where it was based. The frontpiece could also include the owner's initials and rank. Most fire helmets had leather frontpieces, but frontpieces could also be made of metal, especially on presentation helmets or those worn in parades.
This black leather frontpiece dates from the early to mid-19th century.. The frontpiece has tan leather letters that read “OCEANUS/11/W_W.” The center initial at the bottom of the frontpiece is now missing. Oceanus Fire Company No. 11 operated in New York City.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
19th century
maker
unknown
ID Number
2005.0233.1458
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.1458
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T.
Description
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T. Gratacap, a New York City luggage maker by trade, is often credited as the developer of this style of fire helmet. Gratacap created a specially treated leather helmet with a segmented “comb” design that led to unparalleled durability and strength. The elongated rear brim (also known as a duckbill or beavertail) and frontpiece were 19th century innovations that remain the most identifiable feature of firefighter’s helmets. The body of the helmet was primarily designed to deflect falling debris, the rear brim prevented water from running down firefighters’ backs, and their sturdy crowns could aid, if necessary, in breaking windows.
This leather fire helmet was manufactured by Anderson & Jones of New York, New York during the 19th century. The eight comb helmet is painted black overall, with a metal eagle’s head frontpiece holder mounted onto the crown of the helmet. The helmet’s black leather frontpiece reads “1st /Assistant/Hancock/1/TRH.”
Location
Currently not on view
date made
19th century
maker
Anderson & Jones
ID Number
2005.0233.0213
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.0213
The frontpiece (also known as shield or badge) of firefighting helmets has been a distinctive part of the American firefighter’s helmet since it was developed by Henry Gratacap in the early 19th century. These frontpieces displayed a variety of information.
Description (Brief)
The frontpiece (also known as shield or badge) of firefighting helmets has been a distinctive part of the American firefighter’s helmet since it was developed by Henry Gratacap in the early 19th century. These frontpieces displayed a variety of information. The fire company's name and number appeared, often alongside the city or town where it was based. The frontpiece could also include the owner's initials and rank. Most fire helmets had leather frontpieces, but frontpieces could also be made of metal, especially on presentation helmets or those worn in parades.
This red leather frontpiece was probably made during the 20th century. The frontpiece has a white leather trim around the border, with raised white leather letters on a black banner that read “HOPE HOSE.” A black shield below the banner has a raised white leather number “1” in the center.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
19th century
maker
unknown
ID Number
2005.0233.1445
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.1445
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T.
Description
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T. Gratacap, a New York City luggage maker by trade, is often credited as the developer of this style of fire helmet. Gratacap created a specially treated leather helmet with a segmented “comb” design that led to unparalleled durability and strength. The elongated rear brim (also known as a duckbill or beavertail) and frontpiece were 19th century innovations that remain the most identifiable feature of firefighter’s helmets. The body of the helmet was primarily designed to deflect falling debris, the rear brim prevented water from running down firefighters’ backs, and their sturdy crowns could aid, if necessary, in breaking windows.
This leather fire helmet was dates to the early 20th century. The helmet was originally painted black, but paint has flaked off of the helmet. A scrolling pattern is stamped around the brim of the hat. A metal eagle’s head frontpiece holder is mounted on to the helmet’s crown, which holds a black stippled leather frontpiece. The frontpiece has a white “1” and hook and ladder in the center, with red banners above and below with white lettering that reads “ROBERT W CHANLER/RED HOOK”. The Robert W. Chanler Ladder Company was located in Red Hook, New York. The Chanler Family was very influential in the Red Hook area, owning the Rokeby estate in the hamlet of Barrytown. Robert Chanler served several years as a county sheriff and New York State Assemblyman in the early 20th century, while also making a name for himself as a painter.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
late 19th century
maker
unknown
ID Number
2005.0233.0206
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.0206
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T.
Description
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T. Gratacap, a New York City luggage maker by trade, is often credited as the developer of this style of fire helmet. Gratacap created a specially treated leather helmet with a segmented “comb” design that led to unparalleled durability and strength. The elongated rear brim (also known as a duckbill or beavertail) and frontpiece were 19th century innovations that remain the most identifiable feature of firefighter’s helmets. The body of the helmet was primarily designed to deflect falling debris, the rear brim prevented water from running down firefighters’ backs, and their sturdy crowns could aid, if necessary, in breaking windows.
This leather helmet was manufactured by Cairns & Brother of New York, New York around the late 19th century. The helmet has eight combs with an ivy vine scrollwork pattern stamped into the brim of the helmet. The metal eagle’s head mounted on the crown of the helmet serves as a frontpiece holder for the gold leather frontpiece that reads “FRIENDSHIP / 15 / 1796.” The Friendship Fire Engine Company of Northern Liberties, Philadelphia was founded August 18, 1796 and operated as a hand engine company until 1871 when Philadelphia’s paid firefighting department was established.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1900
maker
Cairns & Brother
ID Number
2005.0233.0226
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.0226
The frontpiece (also known as shield or badge) of firefighting helmets has been a distinctive part of the American firefighter’s helmet since it was developed by Henry Gratacap in the early 19th century. These frontpieces displayed a variety of information.
Description (Brief)
The frontpiece (also known as shield or badge) of firefighting helmets has been a distinctive part of the American firefighter’s helmet since it was developed by Henry Gratacap in the early 19th century. These frontpieces displayed a variety of information. The fire company's name and number appeared, often alongside the city or town where it was based. The frontpiece could also include the owner's initials and rank. Most fire helmets had leather frontpieces, but frontpieces could also be made of metal, especially on presentation helmets or those worn in parades.
This 19th century leather frontpiece has a background painted dark blue. The center of the shield features a gold eagle perched on the red, white, and blue United States shield, with a banner in his beak that has “NAMEAUG” written in gold letters with red shading. At the bottom of the frontpiece is the initials “E.A.” in gold lettering with red shading.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
19th century
maker
unknown
ID Number
2005.0233.1475
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.1475
The frontpiece (also known as shield or badge) of firefighting helmets has been a distinctive part of the American firefighter’s uniform since its present shape was developed by Henry Gratacap in the early 19th century.
Description (Brief)
The frontpiece (also known as shield or badge) of firefighting helmets has been a distinctive part of the American firefighter’s uniform since its present shape was developed by Henry Gratacap in the early 19th century. These frontpieces typically served to identify the helmet’s owner; detailing the wearer’s initials or their position in the company, the name and number of the company, the type of firefighting unit, or the name of the town where the company was based. Most protective helmets had frontpieces made of leather, but helmets that were presentation pieces or worn during parades could feature metal frontpieces.
This metal frontpiece was made in the 19th century. The frontpiece is made of nickel and reads “DEPTFORD/4” in brass lettering. The Deptford Fire Company No. 4 was founded in 1792 and operated in Baltimore, Maryland during the 19th century.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
19th century
maker
unknown
ID Number
2005.0233.1469
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.1469
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T.
Description
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T. Gratacap, a New York City luggage maker by trade, is often credited as the developer of this style of fire helmet. Gratacap created a specially treated leather helmet with a segmented “comb” design that led to unparalleled durability and strength. The elongated rear brim (also known as a duckbill or beavertail) and frontpiece were 19th century innovations that remain the most identifiable feature of firefighter’s helmets. The body of the helmet was primarily designed to deflect falling debris, the rear brim prevented water from running down firefighters’ backs, and their sturdy crowns could aid, if necessary, in breaking windows.
This leather fire helmet was made by E.A.G. Roulstone of Roxbury, Massachusetts around 1864. The leather helmet has four combs, the brim is embossed with an ivy-vine design and there is a leather frontpiece holder attached to the crown. The frontpiece has become detached from the helmet and has decayed a bit. The frontpiece reads “SOUTH PENN / 31 / HOSE.” The South Penn Hose Company No. 37 was founded in 1845, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. It claimed number 31 in 1865 and operated as the South Penn Steam Forcing Hose Company No.31 until 1871 when Philadelphia’s paid firefighting department was established.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
19th century
maker
Roulstone, E. A. G.
ID Number
2005.0233.0190
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.0190
The frontpiece (also known as shield or badge) of firefighting helmets has been a distinctive part of the American firefighter’s helmet since it was developed by Henry Gratacap in the early 19th century. These frontpieces displayed a variety of information.
Description (Brief)
The frontpiece (also known as shield or badge) of firefighting helmets has been a distinctive part of the American firefighter’s helmet since it was developed by Henry Gratacap in the early 19th century. These frontpieces displayed a variety of information. The fire company's name and number appeared, often alongside the city or town where it was based. The frontpiece could also include the owner's initials and rank. Most fire helmets had leather frontpieces, but frontpieces could also be made of metal, especially on presentation helmets or those worn in parades.
This white leather frontpiece was made during the 19th century. The frontpiece has a black banner at the top and bottom with raised white leather letters that read “WILLIAM PENN / HOSE.” The center of the frontpiece has a red background with scalloped border, and the white leather number “18.” The William Penn Hose Company was located in the Kensington neighborhood of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Founded in 1830, it operated as a hose company until 1864, when it acquired a steam fire engine. It served as a hose and steam fire engine company until 1871 when Philadelphia’s paid firefighting department was established. Because the frontpiece does not show that they were also a steam fire engine company, it’s likely to have been issued between 1830 and 1864.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
19th century
maker
unknown
ID Number
2005.0233.1471
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.1471
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T.
Description
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T. Gratacap, a New York City luggage maker by trade, is often credited as the developer of this style of fire helmet. Gratacap created a specially treated leather helmet with a segmented “comb” design that led to unparalleled durability and strength. The elongated rear brim (also known as a duckbill or beavertail) and frontpiece were 19th century innovations that remain the most identifiable feature of firefighter’s helmets. The body of the helmet was primarily designed to deflect falling debris, the rear brim prevented water from running down firefighters’ backs, and their sturdy crowns could aid, if necessary, in breaking windows.
This leather fire helmet was manufactured by H.T. Gratacap of New York, New York, in the early 19th century. The red helmet has eight combs that are painted gold. A scrolling pattern is stamped around the brim of the helmet, and Gratacap’s makers mark is stamped on the rear brim. The rear brim also has the date “1804” painted in gold with stylized sunbursts around it. A leather eagle’s head frontpiece holder is mounted on to the top of the helmet’s crown. The missing frontpiece makes attribution difficult, as there were several volunteer fire companies founded in 1804 in both Philadelphia and New York.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
19th century
maker
Gratacap, Henry T.
ID Number
2005.0233.0212
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.0212
The frontpiece (also known as shield or badge) of firefighting helmets has been a distinctive part of the American firefighter’s helmet since it was developed by Henry Gratacap in the early 19th century. These frontpieces displayed a variety of information.
Description (Brief)
The frontpiece (also known as shield or badge) of firefighting helmets has been a distinctive part of the American firefighter’s helmet since it was developed by Henry Gratacap in the early 19th century. These frontpieces displayed a variety of information. The fire company's name and number appeared, often alongside the city or town where it was based. The frontpiece could also include the owner's initials and rank. Most fire helmets had leather frontpieces, but frontpieces could also be made of metal, especially on presentation helmets or those worn in parades.
This leather frontpiece was made by Henry T. Gratacap of New York, New York between 1868 and 1869. The frontpiece is painted black, with painted gold lettering that reads “INSURANCE/1/PATROL/R.D.” Museum records note that the Insurance Patrol No. 1 Company was founded in 1869 and located on Little Boys Court in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1850-1900
maker
Gratacap, Henry T.
ID Number
2005.0233.1436
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.1436
The frontpiece (also known as shield or badge) of firefighting helmets has been a distinctive part of the American firefighter’s helmet since it was developed by Henry Gratacap in the early 19th century. These frontpieces displayed a variety of information.
Description (Brief)
The frontpiece (also known as shield or badge) of firefighting helmets has been a distinctive part of the American firefighter’s helmet since it was developed by Henry Gratacap in the early 19th century. These frontpieces displayed a variety of information. The fire company's name and number appeared, often alongside the city or town where it was based. The frontpiece could also include the owner's initials and rank. Most fire helmets had leather frontpieces, but frontpieces could also be made of metal, especially on presentation helmets or those worn in parades.
This leather frontpiece was made during the late 19th century. The frontpiece is made of red leather, with raised white leather lettering that reads “RESCUE/8.” Behind the number “8” in the center of the piece is a white leather crossed hook and ladder.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
late 19th century
maker
unknown
ID Number
2005.0233.1465
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.1465
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T.
Description
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T. Gratacap, a New York City luggage maker by trade, is often credited as the developer of this style of fire helmet. Gratacap created a specially treated leather helmet with a segmented “comb” design that led to unparalleled durability and strength. The elongated rear brim (also known as a duckbill or beavertail) and frontpiece were 19th century innovations that remain the most identifiable feature of firefighter’s helmets. The body of the helmet was primarily designed to deflect falling debris, the rear brim prevented water from running down firefighters’ backs, and their sturdy crowns could aid, if necessary, in breaking windows.
This leather fire helmet was made by an unknown manufacturer during the 19th century. The helmet has eight protective combs, with an ivy-vine scrollwork pattern stamped around the brim. A metal eagle’s head serves as a frontpiece holder. The leather frontpiece has lost some of its letters, but it originally read “JEFFERSON/6/PJ.”
Location
Currently not on view
date made
19th century
maker
unknown
ID Number
2005.0233.0227
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.0227
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T.
Description
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T. Gratacap, a New York City luggage maker by trade, is often credited as the developer of this style of fire helmet. Gratacap created a specially treated leather helmet with a segmented “comb” design that led to unparalleled durability and strength. The elongated rear brim (also known as a duckbill or beavertail) and frontpiece were 19th century innovations that remain the most identifiable feature of firefighter’s helmets. The body of the helmet was primarily designed to deflect falling debris, the rear brim prevented water from running down firefighters’ backs, and their sturdy crowns could aid, if necessary, in breaking windows.
This leather helmet dates to the 19th century. The helmet has eight protective combs with an ivy-vine scrollwork pattern stamped into the brim. The helmet has a metal eagle’s head as a frontpiece holder, with a metal ring attached to the top of the helmet’s crown. The black leather frontpiece is missing a variety of letters, but originally read “ENGINEER/1/NEWTON.” The helmet originally belonged to Engine Co. 1 of Newton, Massachusetts, whose fire department organized in 1812.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
19th century
maker
unknown
ID Number
2005.0233.0224
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.0224
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T.
Description
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T. Gratacap, a New York City luggage maker by trade, is often credited as the developer of this style of fire helmet. Gratacap created a specially treated leather helmet with a segmented “comb” design that led to unparalleled durability and strength. The elongated rear brim (also known as a duckbill or beavertail) and frontpiece were 19th century innovations that remain the most identifiable feature of firefighter’s helmets. The body of the helmet was primarily designed to deflect falling debris, the rear brim prevented water from running down firefighters’ backs, and their sturdy crowns could aid, if necessary, in breaking windows.
This leather fire helmet dates to the late 19th century. A metal eagle frontpiece holder is mounted to the crown of the helmet, holding a white frontpiece with a central painted image of a double-decker Philadelphia-style fire engine. The top of the frontpiece is missing, but comparison to similar objects reveal that the helmet originally had a black banner with white lettering that read “VETERAN.” The bottom of the frontpiece has a black banner with white lettering that reads “PHILADELPHIA.” The rear brim of the helmet has the golden letters “FA” flanking a gold image of a fire hydrant with attached hose. This was the logo of the Fire Association of Philadelphia, an insurance company founded by a group of eleven volunteer engine companies and five volunteer hose companies in 1817 that would have included the company of this helmet’s owner. The gold ”V” on the back of the helmet’s crown signifies the veteran status of the wearer, and the helmet is painted white to signify that it was worn by a former officer.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
19th century
maker
unknown
ID Number
2005.0233.0195
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.0195
The frontpiece (also known as shield or badge) of firefighting helmets has been a distinctive part of the American firefighter’s helmet since it was developed by Henry Gratacap in the early 19th century. These frontpieces displayed a variety of information.
Description (Brief)
The frontpiece (also known as shield or badge) of firefighting helmets has been a distinctive part of the American firefighter’s helmet since it was developed by Henry Gratacap in the early 19th century. These frontpieces displayed a variety of information. The fire company's name and number appeared, often alongside the city or town where it was based. The frontpiece could also include the owner's initials and rank. Most fire helmets had leather frontpieces, but frontpieces could also be made of metal, especially on presentation helmets or those worn in parades.
This leather frontpiece was made by the William H. Wilson Manufacturing Company located at 135 Bowery Street, New York, New York, likely around the mid-19th century. The frontpiece reads “COLUMBIA / HOSE / VIII / TSJ.” The initials “TSJ” are likely the owner’s initials. The Columbia Hose Company No. 8 was founded in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania and was active from 1806 until 1871 when Philadelphia’s paid firefighting department was established.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
19th century
maker
Wilson, William H.
ID Number
2005.0233.1428
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.1428
A stamp holder and pocket calendar of cream celluloid. The inside contains a calendar for 1900. A promotional novelty, it advertises Oak Hall Clothing Co. of Boston.
Description (Brief)
A stamp holder and pocket calendar of cream celluloid. The inside contains a calendar for 1900. A promotional novelty, it advertises Oak Hall Clothing Co. of Boston. The front resembles a stamped envelope.
Oak Hall was a well-known men’s clothing retailer in Boston started by George W. Simmons. The name derives from the new woodwork in the store following an 1842 renovation—a look that became synonymous with high-end men’s clothing stores. Thanks to Simmons's aggressive marketing campaigns, the store was familiar to most residents of New England in the mid-19th century. It is mentioned in works by Nathaniel Hawthorne (“Main Street”) and derisively by Henry David Thoreau (“Ktaadn”), as well as in correspondence by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, who was incensed at the store’s use of advertising poems (written by “Professor Goodfellow”), and patterned on Longfellow's style.
Source: “Oak Hall in American Literature” by Steven Allaback, in American Literature Vol. 46 No.4 Jan. 1975, p. 545-549.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1900
maker
Whitehead & Hoag Company
ID Number
2006.0098.0980
accession number
2006.0098
catalog number
2006.0098.0980

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