Clothing & Accessories

Work, play, fashion, economic class, religious faith, even politics—all these aspects of American life and more are woven into clothing. The Museum cares for one of the nation's foremost collections of men's, women's, and children's garments and accessories—from wedding gowns and military uniforms to Halloween costumes and bathing suits.

The collections include work uniforms, academic gowns, clothing of presidents and first ladies, T-shirts bearing protest slogans, and a clean-room "bunny suit" from a manufacturer of computer microchips. Beyond garments, the collections encompass jewelry, handbags, hair dryers, dress forms, hatboxes, suitcases, salesmen's samples, and thousands of fashion prints, photographs, and original illustrations. The more than 30,000 artifacts here represent the changing appearance of Americans from the 1700s to the present day.

There is no information as to who wore this dress designed by Adele Simpson. The Washington Fashion Group, a chapter of the Fashion Group International, donated this dress to the Smithsonian Institution in 1975.
Description
There is no information as to who wore this dress designed by Adele Simpson. The Washington Fashion Group, a chapter of the Fashion Group International, donated this dress to the Smithsonian Institution in 1975. This association of women executives began in 1931 at the insistence of a few prominent women in the fashion industry who wanted to promote more careers for women in the fashion business.
Adele Simpson, who was born in New York in 1905, created ready-made clothes for the sophisticated, yet conservative, American woman. She was one of the founders of the Fashion Group International and the Council of Fashion Designers of America. By 1924, she was one of the highest paid designers in the fashion industry, but her name was not known to the general public. At that time, manufacturers only put their name, not the designer’s, on their labels. When Ms. Simpson purchased Mary Lee, Inc. in 1949, where she had been working as chief designer, she changed the name to her own. She continued to run the business until her retirement in 1980. Her dresses were sold in the country’s leading department and specialty stores. Her customer list included five women who were or would become First Ladies of the United States: Mamie Eisenhower, Lady Bird Johnson, Pat Nixon, Rosalynn Carter, and Barbara Bush.
Adele Simpson loved to travel and was interested in indigenous art from many parts of the world. She incorporated Indian fabrics in many of her collections, as evidenced in this dress, which was made from a sari.
This full length two-piece dress is constructed from a burnt orange and gold silk sari cloth. The dress is cut straight with shoestring straps, and it is semi-fitted with long darts on either side of the center front and the center back. Additional darts on the sides control the fit in place of side seams. There is a heavy gold metallic border at the bust and the hemline. A horizontal band with a curved wedge is inserted under the border at the bust for further shaping. There is a metal zipper at the center back opening. The accompanying shawl has a gold metallic woven border that is more prominent in the front. There is a snap closure covered with a bow that fastens over the shoulder. The center back of the dress measures 45 3/8 inches.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1960 - 196900
1946-1956
designer
Simpson, Adele
Simpson, Adele
ID Number
CS.310259.005
catalog number
310259.005
accession number
310259
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1958
maker
Cassini, Oleg
ID Number
2011.0229.01
catalog number
2011.0229.01
accession number
2011.0229
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1944-1954
maker
Bourjois, Inc.
fragrance name
Evening in Paris
used by
Ward, Margaret N.
maker
Bourjois, Inc.
ID Number
2001.0196.017
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1958
maker
Leser, Tina
ID Number
2011.0229.06
catalog number
2011.0029.06
accession number
2011.0029
This is a pair of rounded toe, red leather, women’s dress shoes made in 1958. They have a moderate cone heel (wider at the top and narrower at the bottom) with no embellishments.Currently not on view
Description
This is a pair of rounded toe, red leather, women’s dress shoes made in 1958. They have a moderate cone heel (wider at the top and narrower at the bottom) with no embellishments.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1958
ID Number
CS.313223.001
catalog number
313223.001
accession number
313223
Made for country music star Patsy Cline by her mother, this Western-style performance outfit features record-shaped patches stitched with the titles of Cline's records. Cline began singing with gospel and country bands as a teenager in Virginia.
Description

Made for country music star Patsy Cline by her mother, this Western-style performance outfit features record-shaped patches stitched with the titles of Cline's records. Cline began singing with gospel and country bands as a teenager in Virginia. With her 1957 breakout hit "Walkin' after Midnight," she became the first female country vocalist to cross over to the pop charts. In 1960, Cline achieved her childhood dream of joining the Grand Ole Opry in Nashville. Three years later, she died in a plane crash.

Pink colored western-style shirt and pants with black piping and adorned with hot pink rhinestones and black wool 'record discs' hand-stitched with the names of Patsy Cline's hit songs including "Come On In" [left shoulder], "Poor Man's Roses" [right shoulder], "Walking After Midnight" [back], "Stop the World" [left leg]. and "Yes I Understand" [right leg].

Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1958
user
Cline, Patsy
maker
Hilda Hensley
ID Number
2004.0008.02
accession number
2004.0008
catalog number
2004.0008.02
Made for country music star Patsy Cline by her mother, this Western-style performance outfit features record-shaped patches stitched with the titles of Cline's records. Cline began singing with gospel and country bands as a teenager in Virginia.
Description

Made for country music star Patsy Cline by her mother, this Western-style performance outfit features record-shaped patches stitched with the titles of Cline's records. Cline began singing with gospel and country bands as a teenager in Virginia. With her 1957 breakout hit "Walkin' after Midnight," she became the first female country vocalist to cross over to the pop charts. In 1960, Cline achieved her childhood dream of joining the Grand Ole Opry in Nashville. Three years later, she died in a plane crash.

ink colored western-style shirt with black piping and adorned with hot pink rhinestones and black wool 'record discs' hand-stitched with the names of Patsy Cline's hit songs including "Come On In" [left shoulder], "Poor Man's Roses" [right shoulder], "Walking After Midnight" [back], "Stop the Worlds" [left leg]. and "Yes I Understand" [right leg]. This shirt was part of an outfit worn by Patsy Cline and made by her mother, Hilda Hensley.

Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1958
user
Cline, Patsy
maker
Hensley, Hilda
ID Number
2004.0008.01
accession number
2004.0008
catalog number
2004.0008.01
Hattie Carnegie designed this pink hat that was worn by Mildred R. Palmer during the 1950s.
Description
Hattie Carnegie designed this pink hat that was worn by Mildred R. Palmer during the 1950s. Born as Henrietta Koningeiser in Vienna in 1880, Hattie Carnegie began her career in fashion and design in New York by opening Carnegie–Ladies Hatter in 1909 with business partner Rose Roth. She chose the last name “Carnegie” to emulate America’s richest man, steel magnate Andrew Carnegie. Hattie began taking annual trips to Paris in 1919, and Hattie Carnegie, Inc., prospered by reinterpreting Parisian dress for the American consumer. Each annual fashion line from Hattie Carnegie could contain anywhere from five hundred to one thousand hats, designed to complement her original designs.
date made
1951-1958
maker
Carnegie, Hattie
Julius Garfinckel
ID Number
1981.0011.001
accession number
1981.0011
catalog number
1981.0011.001
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1945 - 1955
wearer
Robinson, Adina Mae Via
ID Number
1992.0434.01.A-C
catalog number
1992.0434.01.A-C
accession number
1992.0434
catalog number
1992.0434
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T.
Description
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T. Gratacap, a New York City luggage maker by trade, is often credited as the developer of this style of fire helmet. Gratacap created a specially treated leather helmet with a segmented “comb” design that led to unparalleled durability and strength. The elongated rear brim (also known as a duckbill or beavertail) and frontpiece were 19th century innovations that remain the most identifiable feature of firefighter’s helmets. The body of the helmet was primarily designed to deflect falling debris, the rear brim prevented water from running down firefighters’ backs, and their sturdy crowns could aid, if necessary, in breaking windows.
This metal fire helmet was made by Cairns & Brother of New York, New York around 1950. This 20th century metal fire helmet features the hallmarks of Gratacap’s early 19th century leather helmet design including the protective combs, elongated rear brim, eagle frontpiece holder and leather frontpiece. The frontpiece holder features a painted design of the fireman’s cross, with a picture of a hook and ladder on the left side of the cross and the helmet on the right side of the cross. The leather frontpiece reads “2355 / 59 / PFD.” This helmet and frontpiece was worn by a member of Engine 59 of the Philadelphia Fire Department.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
early 1950s
maker
Cairns & Brother
ID Number
2005.0233.0218
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.0218
The donor, Leatrice Gilbert Fountain, wore this cocktail dress in the 1950s. She was the daughter of two silent screen stars, John Gilbert and Leatrice Joy. In 1985, she co-wrote a biography of her father's life.
Description
The donor, Leatrice Gilbert Fountain, wore this cocktail dress in the 1950s. She was the daughter of two silent screen stars, John Gilbert and Leatrice Joy. In 1985, she co-wrote a biography of her father's life. The mother of five children, she was active in charitable causes, including the preservation of silent movies.
Harvey Berin, the manufacturer of this dress, was noted for his cocktail and dinner dresses. Although he had begun his own business in the 1920s, he did not use his own name on the label until the 1940s. His designer, Karen Stark, would modify Paris fashions selected by Berin for the American market. Notable customers included several first ladies: Mamie Eisenhower, Bess Truman, Pat Nixon, and Lady Bird Johnson. He closed his business in 1970.
This sleeveless dress is constructed of claret colored silk satin. The wide scoop neckline is slightly V-shape in front and scooped in back. The bodice section has a surplice front with the overlapping section at top left covered with a wide flat self-fabric bow. There is a dart on either side of the center front waistline and side seams. A center back opening with a metal zipper extends into the skirt section. The waistline is piped, and there are gussets at the underarms. A red taffeta inner camisole with narrow straps is stitched to the dress at the waist. The flared skirt section has a wide inverted pleat at center front and center back with an additional soft pleat at either side of the center pleat at both front and back. There is a fold over hem. A white net petticoat is stitched to the inside waist. The waist measures 24 inches.
This dress was exhibited in Suiting Everyone: The Democratization of Clothing in America at the Smithsonian Institution from 1974 to 1979.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1956 - 1957
1956-1957
maker
Harvey Berin
designer
Stark, Karen
used by
Fountain, Leatrice
maker
Harvey Berin
ID Number
CS.309408.002
catalog number
309408.002
accession number
309408
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1956
maker
Fuller Brush Company
ID Number
2018.0089.24
catalog number
2018.0089.24
accession number
2018.0089
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1956
maker
Fuller Brush Company
ID Number
2018.0089.21
catalog number
2018.0089.21
accession number
2018.0089
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1954-1957
ID Number
1995.0016.001
This red kid purse is trimmed in red piping and has a silver metal clasp closure. It has a leather covered metal frame and the interior is lined in beige faux suede. An interior side zipper compartment contains a red plastic comb and a calling card.
Description
This red kid purse is trimmed in red piping and has a silver metal clasp closure. It has a leather covered metal frame and the interior is lined in beige faux suede. An interior side zipper compartment contains a red plastic comb and a calling card. Four yellow metal rivets detail the bottom corners and a horizontal red leather handle is affixed with two yellow metal rivets to the back of the purse body for carrying. Dates from about 1950 to 1954.
date made
1950-1954
used by
Yerger, Margaret Louise Roberts
Yerger, Florence Irene Rhoades
ID Number
CS.311816.002
catalog number
311816.002
accession number
311816
This is a pair of pointed, red leather, women’s dress shoes made between 1954-1958. They have 2 ½” spike heels with a gold and leather accent on the toe of the shoe. The brand is Soubrettes by Niccolini.
Description
This is a pair of pointed, red leather, women’s dress shoes made between 1954-1958. They have 2 ½” spike heels with a gold and leather accent on the toe of the shoe. The brand is Soubrettes by Niccolini.
date made
1954-1958
ID Number
CS.316502.001
catalog number
316502.001
accession number
316502
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1956
maker
Fuller Brush Company
ID Number
2018.0089.20
catalog number
2018.0089.20
accession number
2018.0089
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1958
designer
Heim, Jacques
ID Number
2011.0229.04
catalog number
2011.0229.04
accession number
2011.0229
For much of the 19th century, ladies’ fashion required very small waists. The most common way to achieve this was to wear a tightly laced corset, which could be adjusted according to the specific dress it accompanied.
Description
For much of the 19th century, ladies’ fashion required very small waists. The most common way to achieve this was to wear a tightly laced corset, which could be adjusted according to the specific dress it accompanied. Like this example, many corsets were handmade to fit an individual, although they were also available in shops.
One of the most intimate pieces of scrimshaw a whaleman could produce was a bone or baleen busk, or corset stiffener. These were carved and given to a crewman’s loved one, who then inserted it into a matching sleeve on her corset as a unique memento of her beloved’s feelings.
Each of these busks has a cityscape etched into one side. The other side of one has eight pictures, topped by a portrait of a beautiful young woman. The other has a plaintive love poem on the back.
date made
mid-1800s
collected
1951-06-29
fashion
19th century
ID Number
TR.388604
catalog number
TR*388604
accession number
182022
A seductive accessory fit for a sex symbol, these kidskin evening gloves were worn by actress Marilyn Monroe. Norma Jeane Baker, discovered working in a factory, became Marilyn Monroe when she signed her first movie contract in 1946.
Description
A seductive accessory fit for a sex symbol, these kidskin evening gloves were worn by actress Marilyn Monroe. Norma Jeane Baker, discovered working in a factory, became Marilyn Monroe when she signed her first movie contract in 1946. While her screen roles emphasized beauty over brains—most famously in Gentlemen Prefer Blondes (1953)—Monroe at times transcended the "dumb blonde" stereotype with gifted comedic and dramatic performances. As a superstar overshadowed by a tragic personal life, she remains one of Hollywood's most alluring icons.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1950s
user
Monroe, Marilyn
ID Number
2002.0125.01
catalog number
2002.0125.01
accession number
2002.0125
Made in New York, New York, this suit consists of a skirt, a jacket, and a blouse.The jacket is made of gray poodle cloth with wide, circular three-quarter-length sleeves.
Description
Made in New York, New York, this suit consists of a skirt, a jacket, and a blouse.
The jacket is made of gray poodle cloth with wide, circular three-quarter-length sleeves. Three brass and black buttons fasten the center front opening, and the left and right front edges are cut in a wide circular shape.
Also gray poodle cloth, the skirt is cut with a slight flare and has a narrow waistband with a hook-and-eye closure on the left side. There is also a left side zipper opening, and a large patch pocket extends from the right side seam to the center front. A wide brown leather belt with a gold buckle was worn with the skirt.
The striped blouse is a gray, black, and tan jersey knit with sleeves cut in one with the bodice. The sleeves taper at the ends, the horizontal neckline has a hook and eye at the back left shoulder, and there is a left side zipper opening.
date made
1949-1950
maker
McCardell, Claire
ID Number
CS.316474.026
catalog number
316474.026
accession number
316474
This two-piece gray suit was manufactured by Deansgate, Inc. The company was based in New Orleans and manufactured traditional business clothing since 1892. The jacket is not vented and features three buttons on the front and two on the sleeves.
Description
This two-piece gray suit was manufactured by Deansgate, Inc. The company was based in New Orleans and manufactured traditional business clothing since 1892. The jacket is not vented and features three buttons on the front and two on the sleeves. The trousers are cuffed and have a zippered fly.
Purchased in Denver, the suit cost around $75 and would have been worn for business, social activities, and church.
date made
1956-1959
ID Number
CS.309087.003
catalog number
309087.003
accession number
309087
date made
ca 1958
maker
Brigance Sportswear
ID Number
2011.0229.03
accession number
2011.0229
catalog number
2011.0229.03
date made
ca 1958
distributor
Brigance Sportswear
designer
Lawrence of London
ID Number
2011.0229.05
catalog number
2011.0229.05
accession number
2011.0229

Our collection database is a work in progress. We may update this record based on further research and review. Learn more about our approach to sharing our collection online.

If you would like to know how you can use content on this page, see the Smithsonian's Terms of Use. If you need to request an image for publication or other use, please visit Rights and Reproductions.