Clothing & Accessories

Women's Gown (cheong sam) ca. 1930

Work, play, fashion, economic class, religious faith, even politics—all these aspects of American life and more are woven into clothing. The Museum cares for one of the nation's foremost collections of men's, women's, and children's garments and accessories—from wedding gowns and military uniforms to Halloween costumes and bathing suits.

The collections include work uniforms, academic gowns, clothing of presidents and first ladies, T-shirts bearing protest slogans, and a clean-room "bunny suit" from a manufacturer of computer microchips. Beyond garments, the collections encompass jewelry, handbags, hair dryers, dress forms, hatboxes, suitcases, salesmen's samples, and thousands of fashion prints, photographs, and original illustrations. The more than 30,000 artifacts here represent the changing appearance of Americans from the 1700s to the present day.

Date: 1880s

Firefighter's Helmet

The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T.
Description (Brief)
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T. Gratacap, a New York City luggage maker by trade, is often credited as the developer of this style of fire helmet. Gratacap created a specially treated leather helmet with a segmented “comb” design that led to unparalleled durability and strength. The elongated rear brim (also known as a duckbill or beavertail) and frontpiece were 19th century innovations that remain the most identifiable feature of firefighter’s helmets. The body of the helmet was primarily designed to deflect falling debris, the rear brim prevented water from running down firefighters’ backs, and their sturdy crowns could aid, if necessary, in breaking windows.
This leather fire helmet was made by Cairns & Brother of New York, New York around 1883 until 1885. The helmet is composed of 16 combs, painted yellow, with an eagle frontpiece holder on the crown and a rear brim embossed with hose and hydrants. The leather frontpiece is painted gold with the text “ASSISTANT/ENGINEER” above an image of a spider-type hose carriage, with the initials “P.Z.” underneath. The initials stand for Peter Zeluff, an assistant engineer in Paterson, New Jersey during the late 19th century who owned the hat.
Description
Worn by Peter Zeluff, assistant chief engineer
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1883-1885
user
Zeluff, Peter
maker
Cairns & Brother
ID Number
2005.0233.0015
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.0015

"Animal Locomotion. Plate 60."; Male, Running

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1887
maker
Muybridge, Eadweard
ID Number
PG.002475
catalog number
2475
accession number
65115

Helmet Frontpiece, "Friendship XII"

The frontpiece (also known as shield or badge) of firefighting helmets has been a distinctive part of the American firefighter’s helmet since it was developed by Henry Gratacap in the early 19th century. These frontpieces displayed a variety of information.
Description (Brief)
The frontpiece (also known as shield or badge) of firefighting helmets has been a distinctive part of the American firefighter’s helmet since it was developed by Henry Gratacap in the early 19th century. These frontpieces displayed a variety of information. The fire company's name and number appeared, often alongside the city or town where it was based. The frontpiece could also include the owner's initials and rank. Most fire helmets had leather frontpieces, but frontpieces could also be made of metal, especially on presentation helmets or those worn in parades.
This leather frontpiece was made around 1880-1885. The brown frontpiece has a red banner at the top with raised white leather letters that originally read “FRIENDSHIP” but several of the letters are missing. Below the banner is a recessed white star and the recessed white Roman numerals “XII.” An empty cartouche with green background may have originally contained initials.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1880-1885
maker
unknown
ID Number
2005.0233.1461
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.1461

Fire Helmet, "Cheif Engineer C.F.D."

The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T.
Description
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T. Gratacap, a New York City luggage maker by trade, is often credited as the developer of this style of fire helmet. Gratacap created a specially treated leather helmet with a segmented “comb” design that led to unparalleled durability and strength. The elongated rear brim (also known as a duckbill or beavertail) and frontpiece were 19th century innovations that remain the most identifiable feature of firefighter’s helmets. The body of the helmet was primarily designed to deflect falling debris, the rear brim prevented water from running down firefighters’ backs, and their sturdy crowns could aid, if necessary, in breaking windows.
This leather helmet was made by Cairns & Brother of New York, New York in the late 19th century. The helmet is painted white overall, with 16 combs, the four main combs are painted gold. An ivy-vine scrollwork pattern is stamped around the brim of the helmet, and the edge of the helmet is painted gold. The rear brim has a design of crossed hooks and ladders surrounded by a hose and trumpets, with an inset metal frontpiece that bears the inscription “J. McNally by Senate H & L Co. 1, Sing Sing, July 1886.” A metal eagle’s head mounted to the crown of the helmet serves as a frontpiece holder. The crudely-rendered frontpiece reads “CHEIF (sic) ENGINEER/C.F.D.” with a painting of a goose neck, piano-style hand-pump engine in the center. The frontpiece may not be original to the helmet.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1886
maker
Cairns & Brother
ID Number
2005.0233.0228
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.0228

Representative Journals & Journalists of America

Black and white print containing facsimiles of twelve leading newspapers, each of which frames a bust portrait of its owner or editor, except center portrait which has no newspaper "frame". Facsimiles of signatures appear below with printed titles of papers.Currently not on view
Description (Brief)
Black and white print containing facsimiles of twelve leading newspapers, each of which frames a bust portrait of its owner or editor, except center portrait which has no newspaper "frame". Facsimiles of signatures appear below with printed titles of papers.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1882
depicted
Weed, Thurlow
lithographer
Buek & Lindner
publisher
Root & Tinker
ID Number
DL.60.2435
catalog number
60.2435
accession number
228146

Animal Locomotion. Plate 50.

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1887
maker
Muybridge, Eadweard
ID Number
PG.002464
catalog number
2464
accession number
65115

Animal Locomotion. Plate 29.

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1887
maker
Muybridge, Eadweard
ID Number
PG.002447
catalog number
2447
accession number
65115

Animal Locomotion. Plate 53.

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1887
maker
Muybridge, Eadweard
ID Number
PG.002468
catalog number
2468
accession number
65115

Winning "HandsDown", with a Good Second.

A color print of a race track scene. The spectators in two grandstands and behind the fence cheer the winning horse as he crosses the finish line with his jockey, a full length ahead of the next competitor. A large pack of horses and jockeys follow.
Description
A color print of a race track scene. The spectators in two grandstands and behind the fence cheer the winning horse as he crosses the finish line with his jockey, a full length ahead of the next competitor. A large pack of horses and jockeys follow. The judge at the finish line observes with folded hands. Two American flags rise above the stands.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1887
maker
Currier & Ives
ID Number
DL.60.3241
catalog number
60.3241

Animal Locomotion. Plate 46.

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1887
maker
Muybridge, Eadweard
ID Number
PG.002461
catalog number
2461
accession number
65115

Animal Locomotion. Plate 48.

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1887
maker
Muybridge, Eadweard
ID Number
PG.002463
catalog number
2463
accession number
65115

Animal Locomotion. Plate 3.

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1887
maker
Muybridge, Eadweard
Muybridge, Eadweard
ID Number
PG.002427
catalog number
2427
accession number
65115

Whaler's Monkey Belt

After a whale was captured and killed, its carcass was towed by the whaleboat to the side of the mother ship for processing.
Description
After a whale was captured and killed, its carcass was towed by the whaleboat to the side of the mother ship for processing. Cutting up the whale was done by crewmen standing on a wooden plank, or cutting stage, rigged out over the side of the ship so that they could stand directly over the body. Crewmen used this canvas “monkey belt” to secure themselves while they stripped the whale of its blubber. It was dangerous and slippery work. If a sailor slid into the water he risked drowning or being attacked by sharks looking for an easy meal.
date made
1883
ID Number
AG.057716
catalog number
057716
accession number
2009.0184

Helmet Frontpiece, “Northern Liberty Hose"

The frontpiece (also known as shield or badge) of firefighting helmets has been a distinctive part of the American firefighter’s helmet since it was developed by Henry Gratacap in the early 19th century. These frontpieces displayed a variety of information.
Description (Brief)
The frontpiece (also known as shield or badge) of firefighting helmets has been a distinctive part of the American firefighter’s helmet since it was developed by Henry Gratacap in the early 19th century. These frontpieces displayed a variety of information. The fire company's name and number appeared, often alongside the city or town where it was based. The frontpiece could also include the owner's initials and rank. Most fire helmets had leather frontpieces, but frontpieces could also be made of metal, especially on presentation helmets or those worn in parades.
This Northern Liberty leather frontpiece was manufactured between 1860 and 1880. The frontpiece originally had white lettering that read “NORTHERN LIBERTY / HOSE” but many of the letters are now missing. The center of the shield is a faded painted image of Lady Liberty leaning against the shield of the United States, with a pole in her left hand with a liberty cap on top. The Northern Liberty Hose Company was founded in 1828 in the Northern Liberty neighborhood of Philadelphia. Its name was changed in 1859 to “Northern Liberty Hose and Steam Fire Engine Company No.4” when it acquired a steam fire engine. The company was active until 1871 when Philadelphia’s paid firefighting department was established. The same image of Lady Liberty can be seen an earlier Northern Liberty parade hat seen in object number 2005.0233.0073.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1860-1880
maker
unknown
ID Number
2005.0233.1442
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.1442

Animal Locomotion. Plate 75.

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1887
maker
Muybridge, Eadweard
ID Number
PG.002491
catalog number
2491
accession number
65115

"Animal Locomotion. Plate 45."; Female, Walking, two models meeting, and partly turning

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1887
maker
Muybridge, Eadweard
ID Number
PG.000405
catalog number
405

Animal Locomotion. Plate 95.

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1887
maker
Muybridge, Eadweard
ID Number
PG.002510
catalog number
2510
accession number
65115

The Bottle: Plate 1. A Happy Home in Danger from the Bottle by unknown lithographer

This black and white tinted print depicts the first of eight scenes based on George Cruikshank's The Bottle. The series shows the progressive degeneration of a family due to the evils of drinking. This print is an interior scene of a man, a woman, and three children.
Description
This black and white tinted print depicts the first of eight scenes based on George Cruikshank's The Bottle. The series shows the progressive degeneration of a family due to the evils of drinking. This print is an interior scene of a man, a woman, and three children. The man and woman are seated at a table, and he is pouring a drink for her. They are surrounded by comfortable middle-class furnishings that include a fireplace with stove insert, pictures on the wall, and a clock on the mantle. A cat and a kitten play by the fire near the two younger children.
This series of prints is by the English artist George Cruikshank (1792-1878). Cruikshank’s father, Isaac Cruikshank, was an artist who specialized in song sheets and caricatures and trained George and his brother Robert Cruikshank in these arts. George started as a caricaturist for magazines and children’s books. His most famous works included The Bottle and The Drunkard’s Children, designed and etched by Cruikshank to show the wickedness of alcohol. Cruikshank's father and brother were both alcoholics and he himself drank heavily until he took a vow of abstinence in 1847. These prints were published by David Bogue, who published most of Cruikshank’s other works in the 1850s. David Bogue, (1807–1856) was born in Scotland and moved to London in 1836. Bogue began working in Charles Tilt's bookshop as a publisher and bookseller in 1836 and became Tilt's partner in 1840. Bogue bought the shop in 1843. He was the principle publisher of Cruikshank’s short-lived periodicals, brief illustrated stories, and the Comic Almanack 1835-53. David Bogue published The Bottle series in 1847. Bogue suffered from heart disease and died in 1856 at the age of 48. There is no information available about the lithographer of this series however the inscription on the print reads COPYRIGHTED BY M. MARQUES, 1885.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1885
copyright holder
Marques, M.
maker
unknown
original artist
Cruikshank, George
ID Number
DL.60.2385
catalog number
60.2385
accession number
228146

Animal Locomotion. Plate 78.

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1887
maker
Muybridge, Eadweard
ID Number
PG.002494
catalog number
2494
accession number
65115

Freshman Initiation

Black and white print of a large room filled with young men engaged in a variety of initiation pranks. Hazing devices include: blindfolds, dunce caps, tub of water, women's clothing, white sheets, an animal head, Greek helmet, musical instruments, etc.Currently not on view
Description (Brief)
Black and white print of a large room filled with young men engaged in a variety of initiation pranks. Hazing devices include: blindfolds, dunce caps, tub of water, women's clothing, white sheets, an animal head, Greek helmet, musical instruments, etc.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1862
publisher
Chatfield, Charles C.
maker
Punderson & Crisand
Giles, John Lawrence
artist
Sargent, C. A.
ID Number
DL.60.2436
catalog number
60.2436
accession number
228146

Animal Locomotion. Plate 1.

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1887
1887
maker
Muybridge, Eadweard
ID Number
PG.002425
accession number
65115
catalog number
2425

Animal Locomotion. Plate 62.

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1887
maker
Muybridge, Eadweard
ID Number
PG.002477
catalog number
2477
accession number
65115

Shoehorn

A shoehorn made of ivory-grained celluloid in the shape of a whale's tail. It was patented in May 1883.Celluloid shoehorn with a “Patd May 20, 1883” inscription.Ref: Martin Gysin and Emil Huber, “Shoe Horn and Jack,” U.S. Patent 271,704 (Feb. 6, 1883).Currently not on view
Description (Brief)
A shoehorn made of ivory-grained celluloid in the shape of a whale's tail. It was patented in May 1883.
Description
Celluloid shoehorn with a “Patd May 20, 1883” inscription.
Ref: Martin Gysin and Emil Huber, “Shoe Horn and Jack,” U.S. Patent 271,704 (Feb. 6, 1883).
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1883
ID Number
2006.0098.1585
catalog number
2006.0098.1585
accession number
2006.0098

Animal Locomotion. Plate 434.

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1887
maker
Muybridge, Eadweard
ID Number
PG.78.36.046
catalog number
78.36.46

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