Clothing & Accessories

Work, play, fashion, economic class, religious faith, even politics—all these aspects of American life and more are woven into clothing. The Museum cares for one of the nation's foremost collections of men's, women's, and children's garments and accessories—from wedding gowns and military uniforms to Halloween costumes and bathing suits.

The collections include work uniforms, academic gowns, clothing of presidents and first ladies, T-shirts bearing protest slogans, and a clean-room "bunny suit" from a manufacturer of computer microchips. Beyond garments, the collections encompass jewelry, handbags, hair dryers, dress forms, hatboxes, suitcases, salesmen's samples, and thousands of fashion prints, photographs, and original illustrations. The more than 30,000 artifacts here represent the changing appearance of Americans from the 1700s to the present day.

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
user
Fitzgerald, Ella
ID Number
1996.0342.020
accession number
1996.0342
catalog number
1996.0342.020
This necktie was made by “Jane,” undetermined place and date. It is a hand-made necktie made of white fabric with a cream-colored fabric lining. This necktie was previously worn by jazz musician Adolphus "Doc" Cheatham.
Description

This necktie was made by “Jane,” undetermined place and date. It is a hand-made necktie made of white fabric with a cream-colored fabric lining. This necktie was previously worn by jazz musician Adolphus "Doc" Cheatham. There are numerous signatures in black ink on the front of the tie, one is dated “85.” There is an embroidered label:

FASHIONED
AND
HAND MADE BY
JANE

Adolphus Anthony “Doc” Cheatham (1905-1997), first learned to play saxophone as well as trumpet. Early in his career, Cheatham performed with the African American Vaudeville theater in Nashville. Around 1924, Cheatham moved to Chicago where he heard trumpeters King Oliver and Louis Armstrong, both would have a lifelong influence on Cheatham’s playing.

Cheatham performed with several jazz musicians including Benny Carter, Fletcher Henderson, and Benny Goodman throughout the 1930s to the 1960s. In the 1970s, Cheatham worked to improve his playing by recording and listening to himself. After the age of 70, Cheatham’s self-assessment work would result in him receiving his best acclamations and critical reviews.

Location
Currently not on view
date made
mid 1980s
user
Cheatham, Doc
ID Number
2002.0218.05
accession number
2002.0218
catalog number
2002.0218.05
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
user
Fitzgerald, Ella
manufacturer
Cotrell and Leonard
ID Number
1996.0342.014
accession number
1996.0342
catalog number
1996.0342.014
Made of red-dyed woven straw. This pillbox hat is from the ensemble worn by jazz vocalist, Ella Fitzgerald, in an American Express Card advertisement, photographed by Annie Liebovitz. Label inside the hat:MORGAN TAYLORCurrently not on view
Description

Made of red-dyed woven straw. This pillbox hat is from the ensemble worn by jazz vocalist, Ella Fitzgerald, in an American Express Card advertisement, photographed by Annie Liebovitz. Label inside the hat:

MORGAN TAYLOR

Location
Currently not on view
advertiser
American Express Company
wearer
Fitzgerald, Ella
ID Number
1996.0342.008
accession number
1996.0342
catalog number
1996.0342.008
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
user
Fitzgerald, Ella
manufacturer
De Moulin Bros. and Co.
ID Number
1996.0342.015
accession number
1996.0342
catalog number
1996.0342.015
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
user
Fitzgerald, Ella
designer
Loper, Don
ID Number
1996.0342.005
accession number
1996.0342
catalog number
1996.0342.005
Made for country music star Patsy Cline by her mother, this Western-style performance outfit features record-shaped patches stitched with the titles of Cline's records. Cline began singing with gospel and country bands as a teenager in Virginia.
Description

Made for country music star Patsy Cline by her mother, this Western-style performance outfit features record-shaped patches stitched with the titles of Cline's records. Cline began singing with gospel and country bands as a teenager in Virginia. With her 1957 breakout hit "Walkin' after Midnight," she became the first female country vocalist to cross over to the pop charts. In 1960, Cline achieved her childhood dream of joining the Grand Ole Opry in Nashville. Three years later, she died in a plane crash.

Pink colored western-style shirt and pants with black piping and adorned with hot pink rhinestones and black wool 'record discs' hand-stitched with the names of Patsy Cline's hit songs including "Come On In" [left shoulder], "Poor Man's Roses" [right shoulder], "Walking After Midnight" [back], "Stop the World" [left leg]. and "Yes I Understand" [right leg].

Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1958
user
Cline, Patsy
maker
Hilda Hensley
ID Number
2004.0008.02
accession number
2004.0008
catalog number
2004.0008.02
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
user
Fitzgerald, Ella
manufacturer
De Moulin Bros. and Co.
ID Number
1996.0342.016
accession number
1996.0342
catalog number
1996.0342.016
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
user
Fitzgerald, Ella
designer
Loper, Don
ID Number
1996.0342.004
accession number
1996.0342
catalog number
1996.0342.004
Made for country music star Patsy Cline by her mother, this Western-style performance outfit features record-shaped patches stitched with the titles of Cline's records. Cline began singing with gospel and country bands as a teenager in Virginia.
Description

Made for country music star Patsy Cline by her mother, this Western-style performance outfit features record-shaped patches stitched with the titles of Cline's records. Cline began singing with gospel and country bands as a teenager in Virginia. With her 1957 breakout hit "Walkin' after Midnight," she became the first female country vocalist to cross over to the pop charts. In 1960, Cline achieved her childhood dream of joining the Grand Ole Opry in Nashville. Three years later, she died in a plane crash.

ink colored western-style shirt with black piping and adorned with hot pink rhinestones and black wool 'record discs' hand-stitched with the names of Patsy Cline's hit songs including "Come On In" [left shoulder], "Poor Man's Roses" [right shoulder], "Walking After Midnight" [back], "Stop the Worlds" [left leg]. and "Yes I Understand" [right leg]. This shirt was part of an outfit worn by Patsy Cline and made by her mother, Hilda Hensley.

Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1958
user
Cline, Patsy
maker
Hensley, Hilda
ID Number
2004.0008.01
accession number
2004.0008
catalog number
2004.0008.01
Made of red-dyed silk. This scarf was from the ensemble worn by jazz vocalist, Ella Fitzgerald, in an American Express Card advertisement, photographed by Annie Liebovitz.Currently not on view
Description
Made of red-dyed silk. This scarf was from the ensemble worn by jazz vocalist, Ella Fitzgerald, in an American Express Card advertisement, photographed by Annie Liebovitz.
Location
Currently not on view
wearer
Fitzgerald, Ella
ID Number
1996.0342.019
accession number
1996.0342
catalog number
1996.0342.019
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
user
Fitzgerald, Ella
manufacturer
Herff, Jones, Inc.
ID Number
1996.0342.017
accession number
1996.0342
catalog number
1996.0342.017
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
user
Fitzgerald, Ella
manufacturer
Vinyon Stereo
ID Number
1996.0342.022
accession number
1996.0342
catalog number
1996.0342.022
Made of red fabric, with a zip-front with six decorative buttons. This jacket is from the ensemble worn by jazz vocalist, Ella Fitzgerald, in an American Express Card advertisement, photographed by Annie Liebovitz.
Description

Made of red fabric, with a zip-front with six decorative buttons. This jacket is from the ensemble worn by jazz vocalist, Ella Fitzgerald, in an American Express Card advertisement, photographed by Annie Liebovitz. There is a maker’s label:

DON LOPER
OF CALIFORNIA

Location
Currently not on view
advertiser
American Express Company
wearer
Fitzgerald, Ella
designer
Loper, Don
ID Number
1996.0342.006
accession number
1996.0342
catalog number
1996.0342.006
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
user
Fitzgerald, Ella
ID Number
1996.0342.013
accession number
1996.0342
catalog number
1996.0342.013
This sweatshirt is made of a white cotton/polyester blend.
Description

This sweatshirt is made of a white cotton/polyester blend. It is a long-sleeve sweatshirt with printed black letters:

IT’S TIME THE RARE BIRD CALLED A SINGER
HAD SOME TENDER LOVING CARE
SOCIETY OF SINGERS
[picture of songbird on microphone]

The Society of Singers was co-founded by Ginny Mancini and Donna (Fowler) Manners in 1984. It was a nonprofit charitable organization that was dedicated to helping professional singers. The main fundraising event was a ceremony presenting the Ella Award, named after its first recipient, Ella Fitzgerald, in 1989. Mike Love was the last recipient of the award in 2014. The organization ceased in 2017.

Location
Currently not on view
manufacturing date
1989
wearer
Fitzgerald, Ella
ID Number
1996.0342.018
accession number
1996.0342
catalog number
1996.0342.018
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
user
Fitzgerald, Ella
ID Number
1996.0342.001
accession number
1996.0342
catalog number
1996.0342.001
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
user
Fitzgerald, Ella
manufacturer
Adolfo
ID Number
1996.0342.023
accession number
1996.0342
catalog number
1996.0342.023
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
user
Fitzgerald, Ella
designer
Loper, Don
ID Number
1996.0342.012
accession number
1996.0342
catalog number
1996.0342.012
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
user
Fitzgerald, Ella
ID Number
1996.0342.002
accession number
1996.0342
catalog number
1996.0342.002
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
user
Fitzgerald, Ella
ID Number
1996.0342.003
accession number
1996.0342
catalog number
1996.0342.003
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
retailer
I. Magnin and Company
user
Fitzgerald, Ella
ID Number
1996.0342.011
accession number
1996.0342
catalog number
1996.0342.011
Coat made of leopard skin lined with fabric. This coat is from the ensemble worn by jazz vocalist, Ella Fitzgerald, in an American Express Card advertisement, photographed by Annie Liebovitz.Currently not on view
Description
Coat made of leopard skin lined with fabric. This coat is from the ensemble worn by jazz vocalist, Ella Fitzgerald, in an American Express Card advertisement, photographed by Annie Liebovitz.
Location
Currently not on view
user
Fitzgerald, Ella
ID Number
1996.0342.024
accession number
1996.0342
catalog number
1996.0342.024
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
user
Fitzgerald, Ella
ID Number
1996.0342.009
accession number
1996.0342
catalog number
1996.0342.009

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