Clothing & Accessories

Women's Gown (cheong sam) ca. 1930

Work, play, fashion, economic class, religious faith, even politics—all these aspects of American life and more are woven into clothing. The Museum cares for one of the nation's foremost collections of men's, women's, and children's garments and accessories—from wedding gowns and military uniforms to Halloween costumes and bathing suits.

The collections include work uniforms, academic gowns, clothing of presidents and first ladies, T-shirts bearing protest slogans, and a clean-room "bunny suit" from a manufacturer of computer microchips. Beyond garments, the collections encompass jewelry, handbags, hair dryers, dress forms, hatboxes, suitcases, salesmen's samples, and thousands of fashion prints, photographs, and original illustrations. The more than 30,000 artifacts here represent the changing appearance of Americans from the 1700s to the present day.

Date: 1890s

Honiton Bobbin Lace Cape

This cape is made of Honiton bobbin lace. The simple floral motifs are connected with braids with picots and display a variety of lead-work as fillings. The thread is cotton.Currently not on view
Description
This cape is made of Honiton bobbin lace. The simple floral motifs are connected with braids with picots and display a variety of lead-work as fillings. The thread is cotton.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1860-1890
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T15219
catalog number
T15219
accession number
290897

Stand-Up Choker Collar in Cluny Style Machine Made Lace

Stand-up choker collar with four stays. Machine made lace in the style of Cluny. Mounted on silk(?) Hooks. Ca. 1890Currently not on view
Description (Brief)
Stand-up choker collar with four stays. Machine made lace in the style of Cluny. Mounted on silk(?) Hooks. Ca. 1890
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca. 1890
Associated Name
Pinchot, Mary Eno
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.L6519
catalog number
L6519
accession number
48717

Fire Helmet, "Foreman No. 3, H K W"

The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T.
Description
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T. Gratacap, a New York City luggage maker by trade, is often credited as the developer of this style of fire helmet. Gratacap created a specially treated leather helmet with a segmented “comb” design that led to unparalleled durability and strength. The elongated rear brim (also known as a duckbill or beavertail) and frontpiece were 19th century innovations that remain the most identifiable feature of firefighter’s helmets. The body of the helmet was primarily designed to deflect falling debris, the rear brim prevented water from running down firefighters’ backs, and their sturdy crowns could aid, if necessary, in breaking windows.
This leather fire helmet was made by William H. Wilson of New York, New York in the mid-to-late 19th century. The helmet is painted black overall and its combs are painted gold, with a gold arrow design painted between the combs. The helmet has a floral design in gold embossed around the brim, and a metal lion frontpiece holder. The frontpiece is painted white, and reads “FOREMAN/H 3 C/H.K.W” in black. This helmet likely belonged to H.K. Woodruff of the Independent Hose Company No. 3, who served as foreman of the company from about 1863-1865.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1846-1894
maker
Wilson, John
Wilson, William H.
ID Number
2005.0233.0157
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.0157

Gold Plate Bracelet

James Marshall’s discover of gold at Sutter’s mill in California in 1848 transformed the wealth and reach of the nation.
Description
James Marshall’s discover of gold at Sutter’s mill in California in 1848 transformed the wealth and reach of the nation. Farmers abandoned their homesteads, sailors their ships, and adventurers from China and elsewhere sailed across oceans to seek their fortunes in California’s mines and streams. Extracting gold often left these lands devastated, but these expeditions also financed the growth and statehood of California. Those who didn’t strike out west still participated in gold fever by trading in gold coins and purchasing gold jewelry. During the early 1800s, Englishman Thomas Lowe introduced new gold plating techniques to the American jewelry industry. These innovations were put to good use during the gold rush, and produced delicate pieces like this gold plated bracelet from the mid-to-late 1800s.
date made
1875-1890
ID Number
CS.200122.1306
catalog number
200122.1306
accession number
200122

Gold Bracelet

James Marshall’s discovery of gold at Sutter’s mill in California in 1848 transformed the wealth and reach of the nation.
Description
James Marshall’s discovery of gold at Sutter’s mill in California in 1848 transformed the wealth and reach of the nation. Farmers abandoned their homesteads, sailors their ships, and adventurers from China and elsewhere sailed across oceans to seek their fortunes in California’s mines and streams. Extracting gold often left these lands devastated, but these expeditions also financed the growth and statehood of California. Those who didn’t strike out west still participated in gold fever by trading in gold coins and purchasing gold jewelry. During the early 1800s, Englishman Thomas Lowe introduced new gold plating techniques to the American jewelry industry. These innovations were put to good use during the gold rush, and produced delicate pieces like this gold plated bracelet from the mid-to-late 1800s.
date made
1870-1890
ID Number
CS.200122.1287
catalog number
200122.1287
accession number
200122

Black Beaver Top Hat

Of mid-1800s construction this top hat is made from the fur of a black beaver. Made by a Philadelphia hatter to resemble “the style of Ben Franklin” the hat boasts a wide brim and is slightly worn at the crown.
Description
Of mid-1800s construction this top hat is made from the fur of a black beaver. Made by a Philadelphia hatter to resemble “the style of Ben Franklin” the hat boasts a wide brim and is slightly worn at the crown.
date made
1800-1899
maker
Hilborn
ID Number
CS.015677
catalog number
015677
accession number
58845

A Day with the Chickens

This print is one of fifteen chromolithographs that were included in the 1889-1890 folio "Sport or Fishing and Shooting" published by Bradlee Whidden of Boston and edited by A.C. Gould.
Description (Brief)
This print is one of fifteen chromolithographs that were included in the 1889-1890 folio "Sport or Fishing and Shooting" published by Bradlee Whidden of Boston and edited by A.C. Gould. These prints are based on watercolors that were commissioned for the publication, and illustrated by prominent American artists. Each folio illustration was accompanied by a single leaf of descriptive text followed by an account of the depicted sporting scene. The publication was advertised as having been reviewed for accuracy by a renowned group of anglers and hunters prior to printing.
This print was originally titled and numbered on the text page as 12. A Day with the [Prairie] Chickens. R. F. Zogbaum. Depicted are two hunters shooting at prairie chickens. A dog stands at point flushing birds out of the brush. In the background a man sits in a horse-drawn wagon.
The artist was Rufus Fairchild Zogbaum (1849-1925) known for his images of horses, cowboys, and battle scenes.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1890
publisher; copywriter
Bradlee Whidden
lithographer
Forbes Lithograph Manufacturing Company
artist
Zogbaum, Rufas Fairchild
ID Number
DL.60.2721
catalog number
60.2721
accession number
228146

Gold Ring

This gold ring dates between 1840 and 1890. The circumference of the ring is encircled with a braided hair pattern that is mounted to the ring with golden “X” patterns.
Description
This gold ring dates between 1840 and 1890. The circumference of the ring is encircled with a braided hair pattern that is mounted to the ring with golden “X” patterns. During the Victorian period, hair jewelry was often made by women as a parlor activity, similar to crocheting or knitting. The use of hair appealed to a sense of Victorian sentimentality, of keeping a loved one close, and was used in brooches, rings, necklaces, and wall décor.
date made
1840-1890
ID Number
CS.038976
catalog number
038976
accession number
113420

Levi's Brown Duck Trousers

Levi's Brown Duck Trousers1873-1896The brown cotton trousers shown here were made by Levi Strauss & Co. of San Francisco, California sometime during the two decades after the company's founding in 1873.
Description
Levi's Brown Duck Trousers
1873-1896
The brown cotton trousers shown here were made by Levi Strauss & Co. of San Francisco, California sometime during the two decades after the company's founding in 1873. Levi Strauss was a 24-year old, newly minted American citizen from Bavaria when he set sail for San Francisco in 1853 to open a branch of his brother's New York City dry-goods business. He prospered by supplying blankets, handkerchiefs, and clothing to merchants in the West for the next two decades. In 1872, he received a business proposition from Jacob Davis, a Latvian-born tailor in Reno, Nevada. Davis had invented a way to strengthen trousers by reinforcing their pocket openings with copper rivets in order to help a customer who complained about his constantly torn pockets. He asked Levi Strauss to join him in patenting the process; then they would go into business together to sell their patented riveted pants.
Patent number 139,121 was granted on 20 May 1873, and production began immediately. The printed leather label at the center back waistband of these "waist overalls," as they were known in the late nineteenth century, suggests that the product was instantly popular with hard-working men who needed indestructible trousers. The label proclaims "Levi Strauss & Co." of "14 & 16 Battery Street SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. " to be the "Sole Proprietors and Manufacturers" of "PATENT RIVETED DUCK & DENIM CLOTHING. . . EVERY PAIR GUARANTEED. None Genuine Unless Bearing This Label. Any infringement on this Patent will be prosecuted to the fullest extent of the law. LABEL COPYRIGHTED."
The company's patent expired in 1890, but the popularity of their riveted trousers became an American legend. Iron-clad cotton "duck" canvas (mentioned on the label, and seen in this pair of pants) was gradually phased out in favor of flexible cotton denim, a fabric that was much like the twilled cotton "jean" that had long been used for men's work clothes. By 1960, Levi's had come to be called "jeans" in both corporate advertising and the public's imagination.
Made of a heavy cotton canvas known as "duck," the pants feature a pair of short tapered belts with a buckle to cinch the back waist yoke, and white top-stitching everywhere except along the outside leg seams below the two front pockets. A small watch pocket is set inside the right front pocket, and a single back patch pocket with Levi's now-famous double arcuate stitching is placed on the right hip. A printed leather label is centered on the back waistband.
The patented copper rivets that reinforced the upper corners of each pocket and the base of the fly set these trousers apart from all other work clothing of their day. Each rivet is inscribed "L. S. & CO. S. F. PAT. MAY 1873." The pants were fastened and supported by four-hole metal buttons; the two buttons hidden in the concealed fly are unmarked, but the rims of the one at the front waist, and the six suspender buttons around the waistband, are marked "LEVI STRAUSS & CO. S. F. CAL."
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1873 - 1896
maker
Levi Strauss and Company
ID Number
CS.256979.002
catalog number
256979.002
accession number
256979

Helmet Frontpiece, "Enterprise Hose"

The frontpiece (also known as shield or badge) of firefighting helmets has been a distinctive part of the American firefighter’s helmet since it was developed by Henry Gratacap in the early 19th century. These frontpieces displayed a variety of information.
Description (Brief)
The frontpiece (also known as shield or badge) of firefighting helmets has been a distinctive part of the American firefighter’s helmet since it was developed by Henry Gratacap in the early 19th century. These frontpieces displayed a variety of information. The fire company's name and number appeared, often alongside the city or town where it was based. The frontpiece could also include the owner's initials and rank. Most fire helmets had leather frontpieces, but frontpieces could also be made of metal, especially on presentation helmets or those worn in parades.
This leather frontpiece was manufactured by Cairns & Brother of New York, New York around 1895. The black leather frontpiece has white lettering on a red background that reads “ENTERPRISE/HOSE/1.” There is a red banner at the bottom of the frontpiece with missing letters.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1895
maker
Cairns & Brother
ID Number
2005.0233.1431
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.1431

Hat with Ostrich and Egret Feathers

The popularity of feathered hats led to the slaughter of millions of birds and endangered many species. In the late 1800s women activists launched a successful boycott and contributed to the founding of the National Audubon Society.Currently not on view
Description (Brief)
The popularity of feathered hats led to the slaughter of millions of birds and endangered many species. In the late 1800s women activists launched a successful boycott and contributed to the founding of the National Audubon Society.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1888-1890
ID Number
CS.16437
accession number
59759
catalog number
16437

Mallard Shooting

This print is one of fifteen chromolithographs that were included in the 1889-1890 folio "Sport or Fishing and Shooting" published by Bradlee Whidden of Boston and edited by A.C. Gould.
Description (Brief)
This print is one of fifteen chromolithographs that were included in the 1889-1890 folio "Sport or Fishing and Shooting" published by Bradlee Whidden of Boston and edited by A.C. Gould. These prints are based on watercolors that were commissioned for the publication, and illustrated by prominent American artists. Each folio illustration was accompanied by a single leaf of descriptive text followed by an account of the depicted sporting scene. The publication was advertised as having been reviewed for accuracy by a renowned group of anglers and hunters prior to printing.
This print was originally titled and numbered on the text page as 7. Mallard Shooting. S.F. Denton. It depicts two men in a boat in a marsh. One man is shooting at mallard ducks while the other is paddling.
The artist was Sherman Foote Denton (1856-1937), a naturalist and noted illustrator of drawings of fish. Denton also invented a method of mounting fish that preserved their colors as in life. His work was frequently commissioned by the U.S. Fish Commision, forerunner of the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1890
publisher; copywriter
Bradlee Whidden
lithographer
Forbes Lithograph Manufacturing Company
artist
Denton, Sherman Foote
ID Number
DL.60.2722
catalog number
60.2722
accession number
228146

The Old Reliable Schuttler Wagon. Presented by Peter Schuttler, Chicago

Color print of a wagon train descending a mountain road to a central level area beside a river. A wooden fenced structure is located to the left with tents and a number of parked wagons across from it.
Description (Brief)
Color print of a wagon train descending a mountain road to a central level area beside a river. A wooden fenced structure is located to the left with tents and a number of parked wagons across from it. This is an advertisement for Peter Schuttler, a prominent manufacturer of the wagons out of Chicago. Peter Schuttler was a German immigrant who learned his craft by working for a wagon maker in Sandusky, Ohio. In 1843 he moved to Chicago to start his own business by producing wagons for both the city and for Western travellers. By the 1850's, he had become a leading manufacturer of wagons partially due to the California Gold Rush, producing up to 1800 wagons a year. His son Peter took over the business when he died in 1865.
This image was a copy of a 1875-1880 stereo viewby Thurlow of Manitou Springs.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
n.d.
date made
ca 1885
maker
Clay & Company
ID Number
DL.60.3753
catalog number
60.3753

Helmet Frontpiece, "Veteran Firemen’s Association"

The frontpiece (also known as shield or badge) of firefighting helmets has been a distinctive part of the American firefighter’s helmet since it was developed by Henry Gratacap in the early 19th century. These frontpieces displayed a variety of information.
Description (Brief)
The frontpiece (also known as shield or badge) of firefighting helmets has been a distinctive part of the American firefighter’s helmet since it was developed by Henry Gratacap in the early 19th century. These frontpieces displayed a variety of information. The fire company's name and number appeared, often alongside the city or town where it was based. The frontpiece could also include the owner's initials and rank. Most fire helmets had leather frontpieces, but frontpieces could also be made of metal, especially on presentation helmets or those worn in parades.
This metal frontpiece was made by the Jahn and Oliver Engraving Company of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania around 1895. The front piece is made entirely of metal, with the overlapping monogram “VFA” in brass in the center. The initials “VFA” stands for the Veteran Firemen’s Association of Philadelphia, that was formed in 1887 after the volunteer firemen ceased active service in an effort to continue the foster camaraderie among veteran firefighters.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1895
maker
Jahn and Oliver Engraving Company
ID Number
2005.0233.1483
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.1483

1895 - 1896 Chinese American Man's Gown

Lee B. Lok (1869-1942) immigrated to San Francisco from Guangdong Province, China in 1881 and soon after moved to New York City's Chinatown where he worked in the Quong Yuen Shing & Co. store.Lee B.
Description (Brief)
Lee B. Lok (1869-1942) immigrated to San Francisco from Guangdong Province, China in 1881 and soon after moved to New York City's Chinatown where he worked in the Quong Yuen Shing & Co. store.
Lee B. Lok ordered this gown from China to wear at the 1896 arrival ceremony in New York of Li Hongzhang, emissary of the Empress Dowager of China. Soon after Lee came to America he abandoned Chinese clothes for daily use and cut his queue. However on special occasions Lee wore clothing that identified him as Chinese. This Manchu style gown splits at the back, front, and both sides to allow for easy movement on horseback – a reflection of the Manchu people’s equestrian background.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1896
maker
unknown
ID Number
1992.0620.24
catalog number
1992.0620.24
accession number
1992.0620

Bonnet

This red-and-black patterned cotton bonnet was worn in New England from the middle of the 19th century. Variations in style allowed bonnets to be worn in almost any situation.
Description
This red-and-black patterned cotton bonnet was worn in New England from the middle of the 19th century. Variations in style allowed bonnets to be worn in almost any situation. From simple cotton sunbonnets to voluminous silk evening bonnets, the bonnet was a ubiquitous part the female wardrobe during the 19th century. The simple and warm design of this bonnet likely denotes it could be worn daily and in mildly inclement weather.
date made
1840-1890
ID Number
CS.262790.006
catalog number
262790.006
accession number
262790

Border in Modern Point d'Angleterre Mixed Lace

This border is made in the Point d’Angleterre technique combining bobbin and needle lace. The details in the intricate floral pattern indicate highly skilled designer and lace makers.
Description
This border is made in the Point d’Angleterre technique combining bobbin and needle lace. The details in the intricate floral pattern indicate highly skilled designer and lace makers. The lily flower motifs embellishing the outer edge are made with alternating bobbin lace and needle lace with centers of bobbin made veined leaves and needle made centers. The ground, also called reseau, is made in the point de gaze style needle lace with tiny rings. This late 19th century cotton lace is of very good quality. A machine made entre-deux is added.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
19th C
1870-1895
Associated Date
1870-1895
Associated Name
Pinchot, Mary Eno
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.L6458
catalog number
L6458
accession number
48717

Sample book of Machine made lace; J. Gaillard, France; late 19th C.

A sample book of machine-made lace, French, 2nd half 19th century. From: J. Gaillard, Pere et Fils. Saint-Pierre-lez-Calais, France. Blue cloth covered volume, 19.25” L x 12” W x ¾” D; Embossed gold lettering and border on front cover.
Description
A sample book of machine-made lace, French, 2nd half 19th century. From: J. Gaillard, Pere et Fils. Saint-Pierre-lez-Calais, France. Blue cloth covered volume, 19.25” L x 12” W x ¾” D; Embossed gold lettering and border on front cover. Interior of 26 blue paper leaves with pasted in samples of machine-made lace in various styles, sizes, mostly black or white. More than one sample per page; each paper leaf has samples on both sides. Each sample has a small paper tag in the upper right corner with a style number and price per yard. Exquisite examples of Leavers-machine made lace trimmings for apparel and furnishing uses. The U.S. Leavers lace industry grew after the tariff on imported Leavers machines was removed for several months by the Payne-Aldrich Tariff of 1909.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1850-1899
1850-1900
ID Number
2015.0324.01
accession number
2015.0324
catalog number
2015.0324.01

Catching a Mascalonge

This print is one of fifteen chromolithographs that were included in the 1889-1890 folio "Sport or Fishing and Shooting" published by Bradlee Whidden of Boston and edited by A.C. Gould.
Description (Brief)
This print is one of fifteen chromolithographs that were included in the 1889-1890 folio "Sport or Fishing and Shooting" published by Bradlee Whidden of Boston and edited by A.C. Gould. These prints are based on watercolors that were commissioned for the publication, and illustrated by prominent American artists. Each folio illustration was accompanied by a single leaf of descriptive text followed by an account of the depicted sporting scene. The publication was advertised as having been reviewed for accuracy by a renowned group of anglers and hunters prior to printing.
This print was originally titled and numbered on the text page as 8. Catching a Mascalonge. Frank H. Taylor. It depicts three men in a boat pulling in a fish identified as a mascalong or musky.
The artist, Frank H. Taylor (1846-1927), was an illustrator, author, and photographer based in Philadelphia.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1890
publisher; copywriter
Bradlee Whidden
lithographer
Forbes Lithograph Manufacturing Company
artist
Taylor, Frank Hamilton
ID Number
DL.60.2724
catalog number
60.2724
accession number
228146

Kodak snapshot of women in men's clothes

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca. 1900s
ca. 1890s
ID Number
1984.0669.26.143
catalog number
84.669.26.143
accession number
1984.0669

Brooch

A brooch with a photo portrait of a woman printed on celluloid. It is mounted in a heavy twisted ribbon cage. It fastens with a C-clasp. It is unmarked.Currently not on view
Description (Brief)
A brooch with a photo portrait of a woman printed on celluloid. It is mounted in a heavy twisted ribbon cage. It fastens with a C-clasp. It is unmarked.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1890
ID Number
2006.0098.0817
accession number
2006.0098
catalog number
2006.0098.0817

The Great Conemaugh-Valley Diaster-Flood & Fire at Johnstown, Pa

Color print of a raging river filled with buildings, debris and people crashing into a bridge. Many of the buildings are on fire. Men on banks of the river attempt to pull people from the buildings and the water.Currently not on view
Description (Brief)
Color print of a raging river filled with buildings, debris and people crashing into a bridge. Many of the buildings are on fire. Men on banks of the river attempt to pull people from the buildings and the water.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1890
maker
Kurz & Allison-Art Studio
ID Number
DL.60.3763
catalog number
60.3763

Well I'll Be Hanged

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1892
publisher
Tobin, M. F.
maker
unknown
ID Number
DL.60.2382
catalog number
60.2382
accession number
228146

Gold Bracelet

Crafted in the mid to later 1800s this bracelet is an example of skilled handiwork. It is plated in gold and decorated with patterned etching and floral accents.
Description
Crafted in the mid to later 1800s this bracelet is an example of skilled handiwork. It is plated in gold and decorated with patterned etching and floral accents.
date made
1870-1890
ID Number
CS.200122.1327
catalog number
200122.1327
accession number
200122

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