Clothing & Accessories

Women's Gown (cheong sam) ca. 1930

Work, play, fashion, economic class, religious faith, even politics—all these aspects of American life and more are woven into clothing. The Museum cares for one of the nation's foremost collections of men's, women's, and children's garments and accessories—from wedding gowns and military uniforms to Halloween costumes and bathing suits.

The collections include work uniforms, academic gowns, clothing of presidents and first ladies, T-shirts bearing protest slogans, and a clean-room "bunny suit" from a manufacturer of computer microchips. Beyond garments, the collections encompass jewelry, handbags, hair dryers, dress forms, hatboxes, suitcases, salesmen's samples, and thousands of fashion prints, photographs, and original illustrations. The more than 30,000 artifacts here represent the changing appearance of Americans from the 1700s to the present day.

Place: New York

Firefighter's Helmet

The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T.
Description (Brief)
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T. Gratacap, a New York City luggage maker by trade, is often credited as the developer of this style of fire helmet. Gratacap created a specially treated leather helmet with a segmented “comb” design that led to unparalleled durability and strength. The elongated rear brim (also known as a duckbill or beavertail) and frontpiece were 19th century innovations that remain the most identifiable feature of firefighter’s helmets. The body of the helmet was primarily designed to deflect falling debris, the rear brim prevented water from running down firefighters’ backs, and their sturdy crowns could aid, if necessary, in breaking windows.
This leather fire helmet was made by Cairns & Brother of New York, New York around 1883 until 1885. The helmet is composed of 16 combs, painted yellow, with an eagle frontpiece holder on the crown and a rear brim embossed with hose and hydrants. The leather frontpiece is painted gold with the text “ASSISTANT/ENGINEER” above an image of a spider-type hose carriage, with the initials “P.Z.” underneath. The initials stand for Peter Zeluff, an assistant engineer in Paterson, New Jersey during the late 19th century who owned the hat.
Description
Worn by Peter Zeluff, assistant chief engineer
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1883-1885
user
Zeluff, Peter
maker
Cairns & Brother
ID Number
2005.0233.0015
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.0015

Elizabeth Arden Velva Leg Film, Sun Copper

While leg makeup was commercially available since the 1920s, it wasn't until rationing was introduced during the Second World War that leg makeup became an essential commodity for many American women.Silk and nylon became virtually unatainable, so, unable to procure silk or nylon
Description
While leg makeup was commercially available since the 1920s, it wasn't until rationing was introduced during the Second World War that leg makeup became an essential commodity for many American women.
Silk and nylon became virtually unatainable, so, unable to procure silk or nylon stockings, many women resorted to painting their legs with products such as this Velva Leg Film. Some industrious ladies even painted black lines down the back of their legs to mimic the seams of hosiery.
Velva Leg film was manufactured in the Nineteen Forties by Elizabeth Arden, a Canadian-born American businesswoman known for her beauty salons and cosmetic products.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1943
product launch
1933
maker
Elizabeth Arden Inc.
ID Number
1985.0481.384
catalog number
1985.0481.384
accession number
1985.0481

Woman's right to vote...

A poster sponsored by the International Ladies Garment Workers Union.Currently not on view
Description
A poster sponsored by the International Ladies Garment Workers Union.
Location
Currently not on view
associated date
1920
1900
1970
maker
International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union
ID Number
1986.0710.0007
accession number
1986.0710

What Is Love ?

Black and white print of a black man and woman who carry burlap bags of trash? lean across a trash barrel to kiss. Their clothes are in tatters. Two little boys observe from a doorway. This is one of over 100 in a series of comic parodies of popular songs.Currently not on view
Description (Brief)
Black and white print of a black man and woman who carry burlap bags of trash? lean across a trash barrel to kiss. Their clothes are in tatters. Two little boys observe from a doorway. This is one of over 100 in a series of comic parodies of popular songs.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1875
maker
Vance, Parsloe and Company
ID Number
DL.60.3437
catalog number
60.3437

Winter Pleasure in the Country

Colored print of a one-horse sleigh and a two-horse sleigh driving down a snowy country road. They appear to be racing. A building appears in the background.Currently not on view
Description (Brief)
Colored print of a one-horse sleigh and a two-horse sleigh driving down a snowy country road. They appear to be racing. A building appears in the background.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1865
maker
Kimmel and Forster
ID Number
DL.60.2645
catalog number
60.2645
accession number
228146

My Protector

Colored print of a little boy wearing eyelet-trimmed shorts, vest and jacket. He holds the leash of a brown and white dog that is seated next to him. Toys are scattered on the rug at his feet and on a table in background.Currently not on view
Description (Brief)
Colored print of a little boy wearing eyelet-trimmed shorts, vest and jacket. He holds the leash of a brown and white dog that is seated next to him. Toys are scattered on the rug at his feet and on a table in background.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1874
maker
Schile, Henry
ID Number
DL.60.2463
catalog number
60.2463
accession number
228146

Woman's Dress, 2002

This evening dress was created by internationally renowned designer Oscar de la Renta in the fall of 2002 for the House of Balmain.Oscar de la Renta, born in 1932, was the son of a Dominican Republic insurance agent. He received his education in Santo Domingo and in Madrid.
Description
This evening dress was created by internationally renowned designer Oscar de la Renta in the fall of 2002 for the House of Balmain.
Oscar de la Renta, born in 1932, was the son of a Dominican Republic insurance agent. He received his education in Santo Domingo and in Madrid. While studying to become a painter, he began sketching for leading Spanish fashion houses to help pay for his studies. He first thought seriously about a career in fashion when he designed a debutante gown for the daughter of the U.S. Ambassador to Spain, John Cabot Lodge. Soon after a photograph of the dress appeared in Life magazine, he was given his first professional job at Eisa, Balenciaga’s couture house in Madrid. In 1961, de la Renta was hired by Antonio del Castillo as an assistant at the Lanvin-Castillo couture house in Paris. He moved to New York to design for the custom-made collection at Elizabeth Arden in 1963, and in 1965 he joined the wholesale house of Jane Derby and became a partner in the business. After Derby retired in 1967, de la Renta changed the name of the company to his own ready-to-wear label, producing feminine, romantic, and dramatic evening clothes as well as accessories and fragrances for both men and women.
In 1993, de la Renta was hired by the House of Balmain to design their couture collection. He was the first American designer since Mainbocher to design couture in Paris, France. De la Renta worked at Balmain for ten years while also running his own company in the United States. In 2002, this dress, which was from the final collection designed by Oscar de la Renta for the House of Balmain, was shown on the fashion runway in Paris and then worn by Lee Radziwell, Jacqueline Kennedy’s sister, to the American Friends of Versailles event at the United Nations in September of 2002. It was also loaned to the Metropolitan Museum of Arts Costume Institute for their exhibition “Goddess the Classical Mode” in 2003 before being donated to the Smithsonian in the fall of 2003 during a presentation called “An Evening with Oscar de la Renta.”
This two-piece dress is constructed of gilt cock feathers attached to a silk top and a gold lame skirt. The top is sleeveless with a wide bateau neckline formed with a band of small hand-clipped overlapping feathers horizontally placed from shoulder to shoulder, meeting at the center front and back. The remainder of the top is covered with small feathers vertically overlapping in graduated rows that end in three rows of larger feathers from the waist to the hip area. There is a center back nylon zipper opening with a hook-and-eye closure. The back and bust darts shape the fit of the top with a gold China silk lining. The skirt is a column of crimped and pleated silk lame that hangs straight at the sides, ending in a lettuce-edged bottom. An invisible left side zipper opening ends with a hook-and-eye closure at the waistline. A gold China silk fabric partially lines the skirt. A Balmain/Paris label is sewn to the inside lining at the left back neckline. The dress measures 19 1/8" at the center back of the top, 43 1/4" at the center back of the skirt, and 26" at the waistline of the skirt.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
2002
costume nmah
National Museum of American History. Division of Social History
designer
de la Renta, Oscar
used by
Radziwill, Lee
maker
Balmain, Pierre
ID Number
2003.0274.002
accession number
2003.0274
catalog number
2003.0274.002

1915 - 1925 Chinese American Girl's Trousers

One of the Lee daughters wore this casual Chinese-style outfit on special occasions, for none of the children wore Chinese dress for every day wear.
Description (Brief)
One of the Lee daughters wore this casual Chinese-style outfit on special occasions, for none of the children wore Chinese dress for every day wear. The trouser band or fu tau , translated as the “head of the trousers,” was folded over and secured with a belt or cord and covered by the vest.
Lee B. Lok, his wife Ng Shee, and their seven children lived above the Quong Yuen Shing & Co. store in New York City's Chinatown. Though the children wore Western clothes and participated in the local Scout troop and other clubs, their parents required them to attend Chinese school each day, from 4-7 PM.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1920
maker
unknown
ID Number
1992.0620.10
catalog number
1992.0620.10
accession number
1992.0620

Executive Mercy and the Bambers

This 1838 print depicts Governor of New York, Democrat, William L. Marcy seated on a throne with his foot on the U.S. Constitution handing a warrant for the arrest of two Irish citizens to British Consul, Buchanan. The two Irish citizens are father and son, John Bamber Sr.
Description (Brief)
This 1838 print depicts Governor of New York, Democrat, William L. Marcy seated on a throne with his foot on the U.S. Constitution handing a warrant for the arrest of two Irish citizens to British Consul, Buchanan. The two Irish citizens are father and son, John Bamber Sr. and James Bamber, accused of killing an Irish constable. They escaped Ireland to seek asylum in the United States, but Marcy decided to return them to Great Britain for trial. To the right of Marcy is Recorder of the City of New York, Richard Riker, who is holding a “Writ of Habeas Corpus” and stating that “the Constitution and laws of the United States will protect the adopted citizen!!” Riker was sympathetic to the Whig Party and against the pro-immigration Tammany Hall faction of the Democratic Party that supported Marcy, so his protest represents the Whig’s changing stance towards Irish immigrants in the 1838 gubernatorial race. The Irish had long been ignored by the Whig party, but Whig candidate, William Seward along with political boss, Thurlow Weed mobilized new Irish immigrants who hadn’t been indoctrinated into the Tammany Hall political machine to secure votes for the Whigs. The Irish were previously only tapped by the Tammany Hall Democrats, so the Whigs entering the scene marked an important moment in New York political history. Marcy ultimately denied the Bamber’s trial and sent them back to Ireland, angering both the city’s large Irish population and Whig faction. Marcy lost the election to Seward, and this decision can be pointed to as one of the reasons why.
The lithographer of this print is Edward Williams Clay (1799-1857). Clay was a caricaturist, engraver, lithographer, and etcher, as well as a portrait painter. Before his career as an artist, Clay was admitted to the Philadelphia Bar, but quickly left to pursue art in New York City. After losing his eyesight he retired from art and held minor office in Delaware before his death in December of 1857.
The publisher of this print is Henry R. Robinson (1827-1877). Robinson was active in New York, and had a store to sell his prints. In 1842, he was arrested for selling obscene pictures and books leading to the September 28, 1842 court case, People vs H. R. Robinson found in the District Attorney Indictment Papers, Municipal Archives. He was politically affiliated with the anti-Jackson Whig party which was made obvious by the wig silhouette used in 1838 as an advertising logo for his shop.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
n.d.
depicted
Marcy, William L.
Acker, Jacob
Ricker, Richard
Bamber, John
Bamber, James
maker
Clay, Edward Williams
Robinson, Henry R.
ID Number
DL.60.3339
catalog number
60.3339

Fire Helmet, "Mitchell IV Fire Co."

The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T.
Description
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T. Gratacap, a New York City luggage maker by trade, is often credited as the developer of this style of fire helmet. Gratacap created a specially treated leather helmet with a segmented “comb” design that led to unparalleled durability and strength. The elongated rear brim (also known as a duckbill or beavertail) and frontpiece were 19th century innovations that remain the most identifiable feature of firefighter’s helmets. The body of the helmet was primarily designed to deflect falling debris, the rear brim prevented water from running down firefighters’ backs, and their sturdy crowns could aid, if necessary, in breaking windows.
This leather fire helmet was made by Cairns & Brother of New York, New York in the early 19th century. The leather helmet is painted black with eight combs and ivy vine scroll work around the helmet’s brim. The back of the helmet has the initials “FA” flanking a fire hydrant painted in gold. This was the logo of the Fire Association of Philadelphia, an insurance company founded by a group of eleven volunteer engine companies and five volunteer hose companies in 1817. The metal frontpiece holder is in the shape of a fox, and holds a black and red frontpiece that reads “MITCHELL/IV/FIRE CO” in white text. Mitchell Fire Company No. 4 was founded in 1874 by shoemakers who were located on Federal Street in Burlington, New Jersey. The frontpiece is not original to the helmet.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1825
maker
Cairns & Brother
ID Number
2005.0233.0171
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.0171

1919 Chinese American Baby Bonnet

Mrs. Lee made this "dog head" bonnet for her only son, Peter. Chinese mothers traditionally dressed their one year old children in such bonnets to protect them from evil spirits.
Description (Brief)
Mrs. Lee made this "dog head" bonnet for her only son, Peter. Chinese mothers traditionally dressed their one year old children in such bonnets to protect them from evil spirits. According to lore, if evil forces met the child they would pass by, thinking it were an animal, and of no value. Fur lines the bonnet's "dog's ears" and the padded wool of the hat lined Peter's head.
date made
1919
maker
Lee Ng Shee
ID Number
1992.0620.07
catalog number
1992.0620.07
accession number
1992.0620

Seventh Ward Beggars.

In this undated caricature, President Andrew Jackson is depicted holding a scepter and a sack of $100,000, while seated upon sacks of money labeled “Surplus Fund.” A horde of bankers are shown kissing his feet and begging for “a portion of your fiscal patronage,” because they are
Description (Brief)
In this undated caricature, President Andrew Jackson is depicted holding a scepter and a sack of $100,000, while seated upon sacks of money labeled “Surplus Fund.” A horde of bankers are shown kissing his feet and begging for “a portion of your fiscal patronage,” because they are “friends of the administration.” This is in reference to Jackson’s decision to redistribute the money from the Second National Bank to smaller local banks. The Seventh Ward Bank pictured in the back of the image was one of those local banks hoping to receive Federal funds, and additional dialog and phrases appear in the print in reference to the thousands of shares that were distributed to over 100 NY office holders to obtain the Seventh Ward Bank Charter. This cartoon is a critique of Jackson’s distribution methods—seen as undemocratic by his critics, as he favored those who supported him and his interests. Jackson tells the bankers, “such beggars should have their share, but first go and pay honest Reuben M. Whitney.” Whitney was the former U.S. Bank Director and a member of Jackson’s “Kitchen Cabinet” of favored personal advisors. He was known for helping distribute funds to pet banks during the so called Bank War, and for testifying against President of the Second National Bank, Nicolas Biddle and chartered banks. In the background of the print is a reporter from the “Courier and Enquirer,” a Whig aligned newspaper, labeled as a “Spy in Washington,” thus solidifying this print as Whig aligned.
The lithographer of this print is Henry R. Robinson (1827-1877). Robinson worked in New York, and had a store to sell his prints. In 1842, he was arrested for selling obscene pictures and books leading to the September 28, 1842 court case, People vs H. R. Robinson found in the District Attorney Indictment Papers, Municipal Archives. He was politically affiliated with the anti-Jackson Whig party which was made obvious by the wig silhouette used in 1838 as an advertising logo for his shop.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
n.d.
depicted
Jackson, Andrew
maker
Robinson, Henry R.
ID Number
DL.60.3342
catalog number
60.3342

Fire Helmet, "Globe Fire Company"

The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T.
Description
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T. Gratacap, a New York City luggage maker by trade, is often credited as the developer of this style of fire helmet. Gratacap created a specially treated leather helmet with a segmented “comb” design that led to unparalleled durability and strength. The elongated rear brim (also known as a duckbill or beavertail) and frontpiece were 19th century innovations that remain the most identifiable feature of firefighter’s helmets. The body of the helmet was primarily designed to deflect falling debris, the rear brim prevented water from running down firefighters’ backs, and their sturdy crowns could aid, if necessary, in breaking windows.
This leather fire helmet was made by Cairns & Brother of New York, New York in the second half of the 19th century. The helmet is painted black overall, its eight combs are painted gold, and a metal eagle frontpiece holder is mounted on the crown. There is a pressed ivy-vine design around the rim, and the date “1812” is painted in gold on the rear brim. The gold frontpiece reads “GLOBE / FIRE / 30 / COMPANY / RFR” in raised letters. “Presented to Wm. M. Kidd” is written on the hat’s inner band. It is likely that the helmet and frontpiece were not originally produced together. The Globe Fire Engine Company No. 30 of the Kensington District of Philadelphia was founded in 1820 as a hand engine company. It acquired a steam fire engine in 1863 and operated as steam fire engine company until 1871 when Philadelphia’s paid firefighting department was established.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
19th century
maker
Cairns & Brother
ID Number
2005.0233.0144
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.0144

The Riddle

Sentimental genre prints documented the social image of Victorian virtue through domestic scenes of courtship, family, home life, and images of the “genteel female.” Children are depicted studying nature or caring for their obedient pets as they learn their place in the greater w
Description
Sentimental genre prints documented the social image of Victorian virtue through domestic scenes of courtship, family, home life, and images of the “genteel female.” Children are depicted studying nature or caring for their obedient pets as they learn their place in the greater world. Romantic scenes picture devoted husbands with their contented, dutiful wives. In these prints, young women educated in reading, music, needlework, the arts, the language of flowers, basic math and science are subjugated to their family’s needs.
These prints became popular as lithography was introduced to 19th Century Americans. As a new art form, it was affordable for the masses and provided a means to share visual information by crossing the barriers of race, class and language. Sentimental prints encouraged the artistic endeavors of schoolgirls and promoted the ambitions of amateur artists, while serving as both moral instruction and home or business decoration. They are a pictorial record of our romanticized past.
This colored print is an interior scene of a man and woman seated on either side of a bed in which a woman in bedclothes reclines. Furnishings include a bed with pillows and skirt, stool with twisted legs, drapery, patterned carpet, wallpaper and a dresser with a mirror.
Henry R. Robinson was a caricaturist, lithographer, print publisher and retailer active in New York City from 1833 until 1851. He was well known as a political cartoonist and was politically affiliated with the anti-Jackson Whig party. He advertised his affiliation with a wig silhouette which he used as an advertising logo for his shop in New York City. Like many of his contemporaries, he mentored other lithographers, including Napoleon Sarony. In 1842 he was arrested for selling obscene pictures and books. His Sept 29, 1842 court case of People vs. H.R. Robinson in New York City can be found in the District Attorney Indictment Papers in the Municipal Archives.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1843
maker
Robinson, Henry R.
ID Number
DL.60.2248
catalog number
60.2248
accession number
228146

Whig Candidates for the Presidency

This 1837 print depicts the three leading Whig presidential candidates of 1836. While it was published after the election of Martin Van Buren as president, this print was most likely drawn on stone prior to the election.
Description (Brief)
This 1837 print depicts the three leading Whig presidential candidates of 1836. While it was published after the election of Martin Van Buren as president, this print was most likely drawn on stone prior to the election. This is evidenced by Kentucky Senator, Henry Clay’s presence in the print. Clay was not on the official Whig ticket for this election, but he was someone thought likely to run given his hatred of the outgoing president, Andrew Jackson. Seated on a box labeled “Military Chest” next to fellow Whig, Daniel Webster, Clay cites the reasons why he should be president, swearing both on “party consistency” and “Old Kentuck” that he would be the right choice. While Clay might have felt that he was the right choice for the Whig ticket, his party did not, instead choosing to back General William Henry Harrison, and Massachusetts Senator, Daniel Webster (pictured in the image), as well as Hugh L. White.
Harrison seated on the left of the print, is depicted sitting on a large cannon ball in full military regalia to highlight his campaign platform of being “the Hero of Tippecanoe.” He was seen as lacking in political experience, but his military heroism appealed to the American voting public. Next to Harrison in the center, is Massachusetts Senator, Daniel Webster with his foot on the Constitution. He is wearing a sign around his neck, reading “Hartford Convention,” and holding a document labeled "U. States Bank recharter'd” in one hand, and a bag labeled “Specie Circular” on the other, from which coins pour out into hands labeled “Lo” “Co” “Fo” “Co.” In a long monologue, Webster speaks to the Whig’s desire to maintain the National Bank and how no matter who the candidate is “Nicholas Biddle will play the fiddle.” Nicholas Biddle was the President of the Second National Bank of the United States, and he found a great ally in Daniel Webster who agreed that Andrew Jackson’s plan to revoke the bank’s charter was unconstitutional. In this print, Biddle is represented by the devil floating behind the three men wearing a crown labeled “NICK.”
The devil (Biddle) is holding a wig over Webster’s head saying, “I swear that the wig will fit, for it hath great powers of extension and contraction, and is much improved by pressure.” This again is an allusion to Biddle’s influence over the Whig party, but in particular Webster, who was a firm constitutionalist as well as an outspoken advocate for the Second National Bank, represented in the image by his foot on the Constitution and the rolled paper reading "U. States Bank recharter'd.” Harrison and Webster as well as the third candidate White all ran against Vice President Martin Van Buren in the Election of 1836 on an anti-Jackson and anti-Democrat platforms, but ultimately, the Whig’s strategy of loading the ballot with candidates to split the vote only hurt their chances, resulting in Martin Van Buren’s election and four more years of Jacksonian Democracy.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1837
depicted
Harrison, William Henry
Webster, Daniel
Clay, Henry
maker
Laurence, John
Perruquier
ID Number
DL.60.3360
catalog number
60.3360

No One to Love None to Caress

Black and white comic print of a young woman wearing a dress with a very large bustle. She stands on a stage, holding sheet music and singing. This is one of over 100 in a series of comic parodies of popular songs.Currently not on view
Description (Brief)
Black and white comic print of a young woman wearing a dress with a very large bustle. She stands on a stage, holding sheet music and singing. This is one of over 100 in a series of comic parodies of popular songs.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1875
maker
Vance, Fred T.
Vance, Parsloe and Company
ID Number
DL.60.2845
catalog number
60.2845
accession number
228146

1895 - 1900 Chinese American Man's Slippers

Mr. Lee only wore these slippers in his home or with his traditional Chinese clothes on special occasions.
Description (Brief)
Mr. Lee only wore these slippers in his home or with his traditional Chinese clothes on special occasions. The slipper sole was thick, flat, inelastic, and shorter than the upper sole to give enough spring for walking.
For much of his early life, the Chinese New Year was Lee’s only day of rest from the Quong Yuen Shing & Co. general store and a time when he might wear these slippers.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1896
maker
unknown
ID Number
1992.0620.27.a-b
catalog number
1992.0620.27.a-b
accession number
1992.0620
catalog number
1992.0620.27a-b

Thou Art So Near, and Yet, So Far

Black and white comic print of a raggedly dressed man standing before a window of the "Exchange Window" and looks longingly at the money sitting in the window. This is one of over 100 in a series of comic parodies of popular songs.Currently not on view
Description (Brief)
Black and white comic print of a raggedly dressed man standing before a window of the "Exchange Window" and looks longingly at the money sitting in the window. This is one of over 100 in a series of comic parodies of popular songs.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1875
maker
Vance, Fred T.
Vance, Parsloe and Company
ID Number
DL.60.2853
catalog number
60.2853
accession number
228146

Fire Helmet, "Cheif Engineer C.F.D."

The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T.
Description
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, frontpiece, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T. Gratacap, a New York City luggage maker by trade, is often credited as the developer of this style of fire helmet. Gratacap created a specially treated leather helmet with a segmented “comb” design that led to unparalleled durability and strength. The elongated rear brim (also known as a duckbill or beavertail) and frontpiece were 19th century innovations that remain the most identifiable feature of firefighter’s helmets. The body of the helmet was primarily designed to deflect falling debris, the rear brim prevented water from running down firefighters’ backs, and their sturdy crowns could aid, if necessary, in breaking windows.
This leather helmet was made by Cairns & Brother of New York, New York in the late 19th century. The helmet is painted white overall, with 16 combs, the four main combs are painted gold. An ivy-vine scrollwork pattern is stamped around the brim of the helmet, and the edge of the helmet is painted gold. The rear brim has a design of crossed hooks and ladders surrounded by a hose and trumpets, with an inset metal frontpiece that bears the inscription “J. McNally by Senate H & L Co. 1, Sing Sing, July 1886.” A metal eagle’s head mounted to the crown of the helmet serves as a frontpiece holder. The crudely-rendered frontpiece reads “CHEIF (sic) ENGINEER/C.F.D.” with a painting of a goose neck, piano-style hand-pump engine in the center. The frontpiece may not be original to the helmet.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1886
maker
Cairns & Brother
ID Number
2005.0233.0228
accession number
2005.0233
catalog number
2005.0233.0228

Representative Journals & Journalists of America

Black and white print containing facsimiles of twelve leading newspapers, each of which frames a bust portrait of its owner or editor, except center portrait which has no newspaper "frame". Facsimiles of signatures appear below with printed titles of papers.Currently not on view
Description (Brief)
Black and white print containing facsimiles of twelve leading newspapers, each of which frames a bust portrait of its owner or editor, except center portrait which has no newspaper "frame". Facsimiles of signatures appear below with printed titles of papers.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1882
depicted
Weed, Thurlow
lithographer
Buek & Lindner
publisher
Root & Tinker
ID Number
DL.60.2435
catalog number
60.2435
accession number
228146

The Politician

Colored print of a young boy sitting on a stone bench in front of a tavern, reading "The Times." A mug rests on the bench beside him, and at his feet is a bag with a book and a slate. Other buildings and a church steeple in background.Currently not on view
Description (Brief)
Colored print of a young boy sitting on a stone bench in front of a tavern, reading "The Times." A mug rests on the bench beside him, and at his feet is a bag with a book and a slate. Other buildings and a church steeple in background.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
n.d.
maker
Altafulla, J.
ID Number
DL.60.2360
catalog number
60.2360
accession number
228146

1895 - 1905 Chinese American Woman's Trousers

Ng Shee (1874 - ?) had this two paneled skirt as well as trousers made in Hong Kong at the time of her marriage to Mr. Lee B. Lok in China around 1900. After the marriage Ng Shee lived with her mother in law in China until she joined Mr.
Description (Brief)
Ng Shee (1874 - ?) had this two paneled skirt as well as trousers made in Hong Kong at the time of her marriage to Mr. Lee B. Lok in China around 1900. After the marriage Ng Shee lived with her mother in law in China until she joined Mr. Lee in New York City in 1906.
The pair of matching trousers was often worn under the pleated skirt with a rectangular apron or wei chu’u.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1900
maker
unknown
ID Number
1992.0620.21
catalog number
1992.0620.21
accession number
1992.0620

Boy's School Cap

This beanie style cap of blue and white cotton twill was worn by a lower grade school boy in the New York Public Schools. The "P.S. 49" logo stamped in blue ink at front center indicates "Public School" followed by the number to identify the school and area in which it was used.
Description
This beanie style cap of blue and white cotton twill was worn by a lower grade school boy in the New York Public Schools. The "P.S. 49" logo stamped in blue ink at front center indicates "Public School" followed by the number to identify the school and area in which it was used. The crown is constructed of six white traingular sections coming together at a point with a blue twill covered button. A stiffened blue twill brim is attached at front. Overall it measures 3" high by 7 Inches wide by 8 5/8 inches deep.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1940-1950
ID Number
1995.0019.012
accession number
1995.0019
catalog number
1995.0019.012

Fire Helmet, "Trenton Hose Co. 1 EW"

The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, front shield, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T.
Description
The traditional American leather firefighter’s helmet with its distinctive long rear brim, front shield, and crest adornment was first developed around 1821-1836 in New York City. Henry T. Gratacap, a New York City luggage maker by trade, is often credited as the developer of this style of fire helmet. Gratacap created a specially treated leather helmet with a segmented “comb” design that led to unparalleled durability and strength. The elongated rear brim (also known as a duckbill or beavertail) and front shield were 19th century innovations that remain the most identifiable feature of firefighter’s helmets. The body of the helmet was primarily designed to deflect falling debris, the rear brim prevented water from running down firefighters’ backs, and their sturdy crowns could aid, if necessary, in breaking windows.
Though most work hats from 1836 on were shaped in the familiar Gratacap style with a prominent rear brim, some companies like Trenton wore hats that deviated from this standard. This leather fire helmet was made by Cairns & Brother of New York, New York around 1840. Reminiscent of British “bobby” or pith helmets this helmet has a rounded “bowl” shape. The helmet is painted white overall, with eight combs painted gold and a black diamond pattern painted in between the combs. It has a metal eagle shield holder, and a leather shield that reads "Trenton 1 Hose Co./THC/EW.” The interlocking “THC” initials in the center of the shield stand for the “Trenton Hose Company.”
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1840
maker
Cairns & Brother
ID Number
2005.0233.0193
catalog number
2005.0233.0193
accession number
2005.0233

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