Clothing & Accessories

Women's Gown (cheong sam) ca. 1930

Work, play, fashion, economic class, religious faith, even politics—all these aspects of American life and more are woven into clothing. The Museum cares for one of the nation's foremost collections of men's, women's, and children's garments and accessories—from wedding gowns and military uniforms to Halloween costumes and bathing suits.

The collections include work uniforms, academic gowns, clothing of presidents and first ladies, T-shirts bearing protest slogans, and a clean-room "bunny suit" from a manufacturer of computer microchips. Beyond garments, the collections encompass jewelry, handbags, hair dryers, dress forms, hatboxes, suitcases, salesmen's samples, and thousands of fashion prints, photographs, and original illustrations. The more than 30,000 artifacts here represent the changing appearance of Americans from the 1700s to the present day.

dress, 1-piece

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1790 - 1800
1790-1800
ID Number
CS.006619
catalog number
006619
accession number
28810

bag

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1915
user
Strange, Marjorie B.
ID Number
1997.0143.005

Army Signal Corps Female Telephone Operator Uniform

U.S. Army Signal Corps Female Telephone Operator "Hello Girl" uniform, World War I. The uniform consists of a coat, skirt, and overseas cap, each made of navy blue wool.
Description
U.S. Army Signal Corps Female Telephone Operator "Hello Girl" uniform, World War I. The uniform consists of a coat, skirt, and overseas cap, each made of navy blue wool. The coat has several patches and insignia, including the American Expeditionary Forces (AEF) General Headquarters patch on left sleeve and the Chief Operator rank insignia on the right sleeve. There are two overseas service chevrons on the lower left sleeve, denoting 6 months of service each. On the left breast is the World War I Victory Ribbon with silver citation star. This uniform was worn by Helen Cook and donated by her through The National Society of the Colonial Dames of America.
The Signal Corps Female Telephone Operators unit was formed in late 1917 following an urgent request from General Pershing. The AEF was in desperate need of bilingual switchboard operators to improve vital communications at the front. By the end of the war, over 400 women had been trained by the Army as "Hello Girls" and over 200 had served overseas, with many receiving Distinguished Service medals.
Upon returning home after the war, "Hello Girls," unlike women who had served in the Navy, were denied veteran benefits as Army regulations at the time defined soldiers as male. It wasn't until over 60 years later, in 1979, that the Signal Corps Female Telephone Operators were finally given their veteran status and benefits.
associated date
1914-1918
associate person
Cook, Helen
ID Number
1998.0165.35.02
accession number
1998.0165
catalog number
1998.0165.35.02

Army Signal Corps Female Telephone Operator Uniform

U.S. Army Signal Corps Female Telephone Operator "Hello Girl" uniform, World War I. The uniform consists of a coat, skirt, and overseas cap, each made of navy blue wool.
Description
U.S. Army Signal Corps Female Telephone Operator "Hello Girl" uniform, World War I. The uniform consists of a coat, skirt, and overseas cap, each made of navy blue wool. The coat has several patches and insignia, including the American Expeditionary Forces (AEF) General Headquarters patch on left sleeve and the Chief Operator rank insignia on the right sleeve. There are two overseas service chevrons on the lower left sleeve, denoting 6 months of service each. On the left breast is the World War I Victory Ribbon with silver citation star. This uniform was worn by Helen Cook and donated by her through The National Society of the Colonial Dames of America.
The Signal Corps Female Telephone Operators unit was formed in late 1917 following an urgent request from General Pershing. The AEF was in desperate need of bilingual switchboard operators to improve vital communications at the front. By the end of the war, over 400 women had been trained by the Army as "Hello Girls" and over 200 had served overseas, with many receiving Distinguished Service medals.
Upon returning home after the war, "Hello Girls," unlike women who had served in the Navy, were denied veteran benefits as Army regulations at the time defined soldiers as male. It wasn't until over 60 years later, in 1979, that the Signal Corps Female Telephone Operators were finally given their veteran status and benefits.
Location
Currently not on view
associated date
1914-1918
associate person
Cook, Helen
ID Number
1998.0165.35.04
accession number
1998.0165
catalog number
1998.0165.35.04

Desert Battle Dress Uniform coat

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
user
Schwarzkopf, H. Norman
ID Number
2007.0169.01
accession number
2007.0169

button

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
ID Number
1980.0905.03
accession number
1980.0905
catalog number
1980.0905.03

button

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
ID Number
1978.0844.21
accession number
1978.0844
catalog number
1978.0844.21

H.R. 1180/Let People with Disabilities Work! S.331

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
maker
Bethphage at Ellsworth The Lobby Shop
ID Number
1999.0351.09

button

ID Number
1985.0106.133
accession number
1985.0106

button

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
ID Number
1985.0693.625
accession number
1985.0693

button

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
ID Number
1985.0693.174
accession number
1985.0693
catalog number
1985.0693.174

March on Washington

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
ID Number
1985.0106.306
accession number
1985.0106

MADD Mothers Against Drunk Drivers

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1988
ID Number
1988.0570.01
catalog number
1988.0570.01
accession number
1988.0570

button

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
ID Number
1987.0523.127
catalog number
1987.0523.127
accession number
1987.0523

button

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
ID Number
1987.0523.042
catalog number
1987.0523.042
accession number
1987.0523

button

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
ID Number
1985.0693.539
accession number
1985.0693
catalog number
1985.0693.539

dress, 1-piece

This exotic Eastern-influenced dress was designed by Callot Soeurs, a popular Parisian fashion house.The dress was worn by Mrs.
Description
This exotic Eastern-influenced dress was designed by Callot Soeurs, a popular Parisian fashion house.
The dress was worn by Mrs. Florence Sheffield Keep, a prominent Washingtonian whose busy social schedule and contacts within the diplomatic community were often noted in the Washington, DC and New York City newspapers. It is possible that this dress was worn to a diplomatic event in Washington, DC.
Callot Soeurs opened in 1895 at 24, rue Taibout in Paris, France. It was founded and operated by four sisters: Marie Callot Gerber, Marthe Callot Bertrand, Regina Callot Tennyson-Chantrell, and Josephine Callot Crimont with Marie being the head designer. Coming from an artistic family, their mother was a lace maker and their father a painter and teacher of design. Before opening the salon, the sisters first worked with antique laces and ribbons to adorn blouses and lingerie. They later expanded into other clothing to include daywear, tailored suits, and evening dresses being best known for their eighteenth century inspired dishabille and their exotic evening dress influenced by the East. In 1914, the design house moved to grander quarters at 9-11, avenue Matignon, and they became involved in Le syndicat de defense de la grande couture francaise. Through this organization Callot Soeurs along with designers Paul Poiret, Jacques Worth, Jeanne Paquin, Madeleine Cheruit, Paul Rodier, and Bianchini and Ferier, put in place controls to protect their original designs from copy houses that sold them to ready-to-wear manufacturers without their permission. This is the time when the Callot Soeurs began to date their labels.
As evident with the design of this dress of bright orange color, gold lace, and elaborate trim, in the 1920’s, Callot Soeurs used brilliant and rich fauvist colors and Eastern inspired designs with exotic details in their formal evening wear. Along with other designers such as Paul Poiret, they were strongly influenced by the wave of orientalism in fashion and the arts. It was during this period that Callot Soeurs became one of the leading fashion houses in Paris, serving exclusive clientele from Europe and the United States. In 1928, Pierre Gerber, Marie Callot Gerber’s son took over the business and moved it to 41, avenue Montaigne. It remained there until Marie retired in 1937. It was at this time that the House of Callot Soeurs closed and was absorbed into the House of Calvert.
This dress is constructed of bright orange silk chiffon with a lining of off-white satin. Gold metallic lace trim and elaborate decorative motifs of beading and iridescent sequins decorate entire dress. The bodice section forms a deep V at front and back with the under bodice lining covered with net forming an insert at center front. Bands of lace and decorated chiffon form diagonal straps at front with at a criss-cross pattern at back. A large decorative diamond-shape emblem of pearls, green and blue beads, and glass stones at corners and center are attached at lower edge of bodice front insert. Five pearl tassels extend from lower edge of the emblem. Horizontal bands of two-inch wide gold metallic lace centered with a band of beaded orange chiffon are set in at the mid-section of the dress. Long tails of chiffon decorated all over with beading and sequins are shirred at the shoulders forming a flowing sleeve-like appearance. The decorated orange chiffon skirt section has an inverted V insert of two-inch gold metallic lace at front which extends into a horizontal band at back. A scalloped pattern at the lower edge has an insert of gold metallic lace. A label woven into a waistband at inside lining reads: “Hiver 1922-1923, Callot Soeurs, Paris, Nouvelle Marque Deposee”.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1922-1923
used by
Keep, Florence Sheffield Boardman
maker
Callot Soeurs
Callot Soeurs
ID Number
CS.057028
catalog number
57028
accession number
202244

button

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
ID Number
1980.0606.177
accession number
1980.0606
catalog number
1980.0606.177

button

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
ID Number
1980.0607.01
accession number
1980.0607
catalog number
1980.0607.01

Stop Sweatshop Labor here & abroad ISO

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
2000
2000-04-16
ID Number
2000.0158.04
accession number
2000.0158
catalog number
2000.0158.04

button

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
ID Number
1985.0693.346
accession number
1985.0693
catalog number
1985.0693.346

button

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
ID Number
1985.0693.319
accession number
1985.0693
catalog number
1985.0693.319

button

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
ID Number
1985.0106.599
accession number
1985.0106

button

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
ID Number
1985.0693.178
accession number
1985.0693
catalog number
1985.0693.178

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