Patent Models: Textile and Sewing Machines - Introduction
For much of the nineteenth century, inventors submitted a model with their patent application to the United States Patent Office. The National Museum of American History’s patent model collection began with the acquisition of 284 models from the Patent Office in June 1908, and reached more than 1,000 models by the end of that summer. In 1926, Congress decided to dispense with the stored collection of models and gave the Smithsonian Institution the opportunity to collect any models it wanted. Today, the Museum’s collection exceeds 10,000 patent models dating from 1836 to 1910.
The Museum’s Textile Collection contains over four thousand patent models. The collection includes many examples of carding machines, spinning machines, knitting machines, rope making machines, looms, baskets, carpets, fabrics, and sewing machines. Even the simple clothespin is well represented, with 41 patent models.
This sampling of patent models from the Textile Collection describes the two major groupings, textile machinery and sewing machines. In both groups, the examination of the models begins with the earliest of the inventions. In this early group of patent models, the textile machinery models date from 1837 to 1840, and the sewing machine models from 1842 to 1854.
For more information about the Museum’s patent model collection, see Patent Model Index, Guide to the Collections of the National Museum of American History.
"Patent Models: Textile and Sewing Machines - Introduction" showing 41 items.
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1837 Swasey's Patent Model of a Cloth Napping Machine
- Description
- Cloth Napping Machine Patent Model
- Patent No. 350, issued August 8, 1837
- Benjamin Swasey of Mount Vernon, Maine
- Swasey’s patent concerned the setting of teazles ( thistle-like plant heads) in the wires of the large napping cylinder. He also claimed certain springs and levers that shifted the cloth rollers in and out of gear. This shifting of the cloth rollers caused the cloth to come in contact with the teazles as the cloth was wound forward and then disengaged the cloth from the teazles as the cloth rewound.
- In this way, the cloth could roll from one cylinder to another as long as necessary to ensure a well-napped surface. Also, the shifting of gears did not require a person to match and unmatch the gears. Friction bands on the ends of the cloth rollers, together with hanging weights, kept tension on the cloth even.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- model constructed
- before 1837-08-08
- date made
- before1837-08-08
- patent date
- 1837-08-08
- inventor
- Swasey, Benjamin
- ID Number
- TE*T11403.011
- accession number
- 89797
- catalog number
- T11403.011
- accession number
- 89797
- patent number
- 350
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
1838 Day's Patent Model of a Cordage Machine
- Description
- Cordage Machine Patent Model
- Patent No. 596, issued February 7, 1838
- Moses Day of Roxbury, Massachusetts
- This patent was an improvement on Day’s earlier patent (9692x) of June 2, 1836, which was destroyed in the 1836 fire and reconstructed by the Patent Office for the Columbian Exposition of 1893.
- The difference between the two patents is the addition of a gauge-plate to the end of the machine, by which it became a strandmaker. Day stated that his method of making cordage had two advantages over those in common use. First, the twist given to the strand was uniform throughout its length. Second, as the cord was made, it was wound on a bobbin, thereby eliminating the need for long rope walks and large buildings. The whole process could be done in a room that was only slightly larger than the cordage machine and the bobbin frame.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- model constructed
- before 1838-02-07
- patent date
- 1838-02-07
- inventor
- Day, Moses
- ID Number
- TE*T11405.045
- accession number
- 89797
- catalog number
- T11405.045
- patent number
- 596
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
1837 Mason's Patent Model of a Loom Temple
- Description
- Self-Adjusting Loom Temple Patent Model
- Patent No. 291, issued July 22, 1837
- Samuel P. Mason of Newport, Rhode Island
- Temples are attachments on looms designed to keep the cloth at a uniform width during weaving. Self-acting temples required no adjustment as the cloth was woven, for they automatically adjusted their position. The greater speed obtained with power weaving made the use of self-acting temples a necessity.
- The basic construction of Mason’s temples was similar to others of the period. The patented feature of his temple concerned the arrangement of the parts by which the jaws or forceps were forced open and released their hold on the cloth.
- Mason patented other useful textile machinery. Notable were an 1830 speeder for roving cotton (a speeder is a machine used in cotton yarn spinning that inserts a twist to the yarn and winds it on the bobbin) and a cotton whipper (a machine that separates clumps of cotton) in 1834. James Montgomery, in his 1840 edition of “Cotton manufacture of the United States Contrasted with that of Great Britain,” wrote that he considered the whipper the best, cheapest, and simplest that he had seen in factory use over a span of thirty years.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- model constructed
- before 1837-07-22
- patent date
- 1837-07-22
- inventor
- Mason, Samuel P.
- ID Number
- TE*T11414.073
- patent number
- 291
- catalog number
- T11414.073
- patent number
- 001838
- accession number
- 89797
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
1837 Hartford and Tilton's Patent Model of a Loom Heddle
- Description
- Loom Heddles and Harness Patent Model
- Patent No. 544, issued December 29, 1837
- Benjamin Hartford and William B. Tilton of Enfield, New Hampshire
- Hartford and Tilton improved upon the construction of heddles (the mechanisms that raise and lower warp threads) by using strips of rolled flat metal with an eye punched through the middle of each strip to allow for the passage of warp yarns. Heddles were commonly constructed of cord. The replacement of metal for cord produced a more durable heddle. These one-piece metallic strips and the construction of the heddle frame were the basis of their patent. The heddles slid on two rods and were attached to adjustable clasps, permitting the heddles to correspond to the part of the reed (a comb-like device used to space the warp yarns evenly) that was in operation.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- model constructed
- before 1837-12-29
- patent date
- 1837-12-29
- inventor
- Hartford, Benjamin
- Tilton, William B.
- ID Number
- TE*T11409.015
- patent number
- 544
- accession number
- 89797
- catalog number
- T.11409.15
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
1850 Robinson's Patent Model of a Sewing Machine
- Description
- Sewing Machine Patent Model
- Patent No. 7,824, issued December 10, 1850
- Frederick R. Robinson of Boston, Massachusetts
- In his Annual Report to the Congress of Patents for 1850, Commissioner Thomas Ewbank stated that 995 patents were issued. One of those patents was to Frederick R. Robinson for improvements to sewing machines. Robinson’s patent was used commercially by the firm of Howard & Davis of Boston to manufacture sewing machines. In addition to using Robinson’s patent, the machines they built utilized improvements patented by Sylvester H. Roper of Worcester, Massachusetts (Patent No. 11,521 issued on August 15, 1854) and with additional improvements (Patent No. 16,026 issued on November 4, 1856). Howard & Davis were best known for their manufacture of high-grade clocks and watches, although they also built fire engines and precision balances.
- As Robinson stated, “The object of my invention is to produce either what is generally termed ‘stitch and back stitch’ sewing, or ordinary stitching.” He notes that this is frequently called the running stitch or basting stitch. His specific patent claim was “The combination of two needles, two thread-guides, and a cloth-holder made to operate together . . . and . . . the improvement of making the needles with springs and applying mouth-pieces or pressers to them, and on each side of the flange of the base-plate . . .”
- Scientific American, November 1, 1856, describes the machine based on the patents mentioned above as: “Robinson & Roper exhibit their new improved sewing machines, which appear to operate with great success. Two needles are employed, the points of which are furnished with hooks that alternately catch the thread and form the stitch. The finest kind of cotton thread or silk can be used.”
- Location
- Currently not on view
- model constructed
- before 1850-12-10
- patent date
- 1850-12-10
- inventor
- Robinson, Frederick R.
- ID Number
- TE*T06111
- catalog number
- T.6111
- accession number
- 89797
- patent number
- 7824
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
1838 Humphries's Patent Model of a Carpet
- Description
- Carpet Patent Model
- Patent No. 1,028, issued December 10, 1838
- John Humphries of New York, New York
- Humphries’s innovation was the addition of a supplementary layer to the bottom of a carpet to provide an extra cushion and to strengthen the overall structure. The added stuffer weft is a stout, loosely twisted cord, woven into the underside of the carpet and interlaced with the ground warp. These samples of carpeting are important because they are the earliest known examples of patented carpeting in the United States.
- Whether this patent was utilized is unknown but there is evidence of Humphries being involved in the manufacture of carpeting. The Journal of the Franklin Institute lists premiums awarded at their eighth exhibition in 1833. John Humphries was presented a premium for four pieces of Brussels carpeting. The judges noted that “these goods are of excellent quality and style, and satisfactory assurances have been received that they are exclusively of American workmanship throughout all the processes from the raw material to the finished product of the loom.”
- Location
- Currently not on view
- model constructed
- before 1838-12-10
- patent date
- 1838-12-10
- inventor
- Humphries, John
- ID Number
- TE*T18362
- catalog number
- T18362.000
- patent number
- 001028
- accession number
- 1978.2402
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
1838 Wheeler's Patent Model of a Spinning Wheel
- Description
- Spinning Wheel Patent Model
- Patent No. 710, issued April 25, 1838
- Hiram F. Wheeler of Springville, Pennsylvania
- Hiram Wheeler’s domestic wheel was for spinning wool. He titled his invention “inclined spinner,” referring to the fact that the operator would sit at the wheel as opposed to standing and walking when using the typical wool wheel. When the treadle was forced down by the operator’s foot, a cord pulled the carriage and spinning wheel head away from the spinner. A weight brought both of them back toward the spinner. This movement of the carriage was equivalent to the spinner walking forward to the spindle tip for the draw out and then back to the wheel. Wheeler specifically claimed as his invention this sliding action of the wheel head.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- model constructed
- before 1838-04-25
- patent date
- 1838-04-25
- inventor
- Wheeler, Hiram F.
- ID Number
- TE*T11407.001
- catalog number
- T11407.001
- accession number
- 89797
- patent number
- 710
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
1838 Yerkes's Patent Model of a Spindle and Flyer
- Description
- Spindle and Flyer Patent Model
- Patent No. 781, issued June 12, 1838
- Richard E. Yerkes of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
- According to his patent specification, Yerkes patented “the revolving arrangement and combination of the sliding shaft, with the broach, or with the spool, for the purpose of removing and renewing the latter . . . .” The action of the sliding shaft enabled the operator to remove and change the spool when the spring was pressed down. In addition, he patented the ring in combination with the flyers that distributed the yarn on the spool. Yerkes intended his improvements to be used on machines for spinning cotton and other fibers.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- model constructed
- before 1838-06-12
- patent date
- 1838-06-12
- inventor
- Yerkes, Richard E.
- ID Number
- TE*T11420.080
- catalog number
- T11420.080
- accession number
- 89797
- patent number
- 781
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
1846 Howe Jr.'s Sewing Machine Patent Model
- Description
- Sewing Machine Patent Model
- Patent No. 4,750, issued September 10, 1846
- Elias Howe Jr. of Cambridge, Massachusetts
- While working as a journeyman machinist, Elias Howe Jr. wrestled for years to find a way to mechanize sewing. With the family pinched by poverty, his wife sewed for others by hand at home. Watching her sew, Howe visualized ways to mechanize the process. In 1845, he built his first sewing machine and soon constructed an improved model, which he carried to the Patent Office in Washington to apply for a patent. He received the fifth United States patent (No. 4,750) for a sewing machine in 1846.
- Howe’s model used a grooved and curved eye-pointed needle carried by a vibrating arm. The needle was provided with thread from a spool. Loops of thread from the needle were locked by a second thread carried by a shuttle, which moved through the loop by means of reciprocating drivers.
- The cloth hung vertically, impaled on pins on a metal baster plate. The baster plate moved intermittently under the needle by means of a toothed wheel. The length of each stitching operation depended upon the length of the baster plate, and only straight seams could be sewn. When the end of the baster plate reached the position of the needle, the sewing was stopped. The cloth was removed from the baster plate, and the plate was moved back to its original position. The cloth was repositioned on the pins and the process was repeated until the sewing was finished. This resulted in an imperfect way to sew, but it marked the beginning of successful mechanized sewing.
- Howe’s patent claims were upheld in court to allow his claim to control the combination of the eye-pointed needle with a shuttle to form a lockstitch. Howe met with limited success in marketing his sewing machine. Subsequent inventors patented their versions of sewing machines, some of which infringed on Howe’s patent. He quickly realized his fortune depended on defending his patent and collecting royalty fees from sewing machine manufacturers. These royalty licenses granted companies the right to use the Howe patent on their machines.
- In 1856, after years of lawsuits over patent rights, Elias Howe and three companies, Wheeler & Wilson, Grover and Baker, and I. M. Singer, formed the first patent pool in American industry. The organization was called the Sewing Machine Combination and/or the Sewing Machine Trust. This freed the companies from expensive and time-consuming litigation and enabled them to concentrate on manufacturing and marketing their machines.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- model constructed
- before 1846-09-10
- patent date
- 1846-09-10
- inventor
- Howe, Jr., Elias
- model maker
- Howe, Jr., Elias
- ID Number
- TE*T06050
- catalog number
- T.6050
- patent number
- 004750
- accession number
- 48865
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
1838 Faber's Patent Model of a Hand Card
- Description
- Hand Card Patent Model
- Patent No. 863, issued August 1, 1838
- George Faber of Canton, Ohio
- Faber’s patent related to the construction of the common hand card used for carding cotton or wool prior to the spinning process. He specifically patented using wood veneer, instead of leather, for the foundation that contained the card’s wire teeth. The wood was cut from 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch in thickness, 4 inches in width, and 4 to 8 inches in length. The wood was then steeped in water to soften it so that when placed in a card-making machine, it could be pricked and the teeth inserted. The veneer was nailed to another piece of wood and a handle inserted to form the hand card.
- Although Faber did not claim credit for inventing the card-making machine, in his patent specification he did mention that he had made improvements on it.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- model constructed
- before 1838-08-01
- patent date
- 1838-08-01
- inventor
- Faber, George
- ID Number
- TE*T11396.030
- catalog number
- T11396.030
- accession number
- 89797
- patent number
- 863
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center