Textiles

The 50,000 objects in the textile collections fall into two main categories: raw fibers, yarns, and fabrics, and machines, tools, and other textile technology. Shawls, coverlets, samplers, laces, linens, synthetics, and other fabrics are part of the first group, along with the 400 quilts in the National Quilt Collection. Some of the Museum's most popular artifacts, such as the Star-Spangled Banner and the gowns of the first ladies, have an obvious textile connection.

The machinery and tools include spinning wheels, sewing machines, thimbles, needlework tools, looms, and an invention that changed the course of American agriculture and society. A model of Eli Whitney's cotton gin, made by the inventor in the early 1800s, shows the workings of a machine that helped make cotton plantations profitable in the South and encouraged the spread of slavery.

This table runner has a central inscription of “VLAANDEREN IN DEN KRYG – HULDE VAN ARDOYE – 1915” (Flanders in War – Tribute from Ardoye). Nine embroidered Belgian province shields and the 1915 municipal shield for Ardoye decorate the border.
Description
This table runner has a central inscription of “VLAANDEREN IN DEN KRYG – HULDE VAN ARDOYE – 1915” (Flanders in War – Tribute from Ardoye). Nine embroidered Belgian province shields and the 1915 municipal shield for Ardoye decorate the border. The German Army used poisoned gas for the first time on the western front in 1915 by Ardoye near Ypres, West Flanders, Belgium.
The linen fabric of the table runner is embroidered in satin stitch and French knots with cotton. The floral border surrounding the shields is rendered in the Bruges flower lace technique and braided mesh. Lace and embroidery was made by Belgian women during World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1915-1918
part of design
1915
facilitator
Hoover, Herbert
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.E383961
catalog number
E383961
accession number
172208
This round tablecloth is decorated with the American and Belgian shields, and the Whitlock family crest. Mr. Brand Whitlock was the American envoy and later ambassador to Belgium from 1914 to 1921. Mrs.
Description
This round tablecloth is decorated with the American and Belgian shields, and the Whitlock family crest. Mr. Brand Whitlock was the American envoy and later ambassador to Belgium from 1914 to 1921. Mrs. Brand Whitlock worked tirelessly on behalf of the Belgian lace makers during World War I.
The center of the tablecloth is Old Flanders style bobbin lace with needle lace ground. The same lace pattern is used in TE*T14468A and TE*T14468B. A wide border of point de Venise style needle lace surrounds the four shields. Belgian lace makers made this tablecloth during World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1914-1918
described
Whitlock, Ella Brainerd
referenced
Whitlock, Brand
facilitator
Hoover, Herbert
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.E383963
catalog number
E383963
accession number
172208
This Point de Paris bobbin lace mat border was made by lace makers in Turnhout, Belgium between 1914 and 1919 for sale by the Commission for Relief in Belgium. The flowers and swans are symbols of the annunciation.
Description
This Point de Paris bobbin lace mat border was made by lace makers in Turnhout, Belgium between 1914 and 1919 for sale by the Commission for Relief in Belgium. The flowers and swans are symbols of the annunciation. The blue print B44/99 among the War Laces in the Hoover Library shows the same lace. It is made of cotton and is of good quality.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1914-1919
facilitator
Hoover, Herbert
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T11808
catalog number
T11808
accession number
198210
This round linen table cover contains the inscription “1915 ARDOYE - KLOOSTER DER H. KINDERSHEID VAN JESUS – WEESKINDEREN” (1915 Ardoye - Convent of the Holy Childhood of Jesus - Orphans) in the center.
Description
This round linen table cover contains the inscription “1915 ARDOYE - KLOOSTER DER H. KINDERSHEID VAN JESUS – WEESKINDEREN” (1915 Ardoye - Convent of the Holy Childhood of Jesus - Orphans) in the center. Ardoye (Ardooie) is in West Flanders, Belgium, in the area where the German army used poison gas for the first time on the western front in the second battle of Ypres in 1915.
The table cover is centered with bobbin lace. Bruges flower lace as well as tape lace and braided mesh techniques were utilized by the Belgian lace makers, who made this during World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1915-1918
part of design
1915
facilitator
Hoover, Herbert
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.E383962
catalog number
E383962
accession number
172208
Both ends of this table scarf are decorated with the seals of the United States and Belgium.
Description
Both ends of this table scarf are decorated with the seals of the United States and Belgium. A cornucopia spilling from the US shield to the Belgian shield symbolizes generosity from the American people toward the Belgian people.
The table scarf, with delicate handmade floral designs of Point de Gaze needle lace and mixed Brussels bobbin and needle lace, is appliquéd to machine made net. Belgian lace makers made this during World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1914-1919
facilitator
Hoover, Herbert
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.E383968
catalog number
E383968
accession number
172208
This fan leaf is monogrammed A for Belgian King Albert I and E for Queen Elisabeth surmounted by the Belgian royal crowns and encircled by laurel as a symbol for victory.
Description
This fan leaf is monogrammed A for Belgian King Albert I and E for Queen Elisabeth surmounted by the Belgian royal crowns and encircled by laurel as a symbol for victory. The dates 1914-1915 are on a shield held by the Belgian Lion in the center of the fan leaf below the Belgian and American flags. The names of the designer Juliette Wytsman, and the manufacturer and dealer Maison Daimeries-Petitjean are worked into the design. The fan leaf is an example of fine quality Point de Gaze needle lace made by Belgian lace makers during World War I. The fan leaf has never been mounted to fan sticks.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1915-1916
inscribed in lace
1915
1914
facilitator
Hoover, Herbert
described
Albert I King of Belgium
Elisabeth Queen of Belgium
manufacturer
Maison Daimeries-Petitjean
designer
Wytsman, Juliette Trullemans
ID Number
TE.E383969
catalog number
E383969
accession number
172208
This pillow top was designed by the Belgian sculptor Isidore de Rudder (1855-1943).
Description
This pillow top was designed by the Belgian sculptor Isidore de Rudder (1855-1943). The design of starfish, crabs, and eels in seaweed with the central inscription “1914 Yzer 1915” commemorates a famous battle at the Yzer River, where Belgian engineers prevented the German troops from advancing by manipulating the locks on the Yzer River to flood the surrounding fields.
This pillow top in point de Venise style needle lace was made by Belgian lace makers during World War I. The pattern is preserved in the Royal Museum of Art and History in Brussels.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1915-1918
part of design
1915
1914
facilitator
Hoover, Herbert
designer
de Rudder, Isidore
ID Number
TE.E383966
catalog number
E383966
accession number
172208
One of a set of six identical curved stylized cone or paisley shaped black silk Chantilly bobbin lace appliqués or insertions. The attached paper tag states "131, 6 pieces, No 10/55, Chantilly, made by hand in Flanders for the C'on for Relief in Belgium, M. Kefer Mali".
Description
One of a set of six identical curved stylized cone or paisley shaped black silk Chantilly bobbin lace appliqués or insertions. The attached paper tag states "131, 6 pieces, No 10/55, Chantilly, made by hand in Flanders for the C'on for Relief in Belgium, M. Kefer Mali". Each piece is labeled "10/55, $.45 each". Madame Kefer-Mali was one of four women on the Lace Committee working with the Commission for Relief in Belgium. The lace was made by Belgian lace makers during World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1914-1918
1914-1919
made during
1914-1918
Helped create Commission for Relief in Belgium
Hoover, Herbert
previous owner
Kefer-Mali, M.
maker
unknown
ID Number
2013.0121.39
accession number
2013.0121
catalog number
2013.0121.39
This Alençon needle lace border was made by Belgian lace makers during World War One. A white cord at one end of the lace attaches a metal label used by the Commission for Relief in Belgium (C.R.B.) to ascertain authenticity as made for the CRB.
Description
This Alençon needle lace border was made by Belgian lace makers during World War One. A white cord at one end of the lace attaches a metal label used by the Commission for Relief in Belgium (C.R.B.) to ascertain authenticity as made for the CRB. A narrow machine-made lace is added to the side that will be sewn unto a garment.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1914-1918
Associated Date
1914-1918
facilitator
Hoover, Herbert
distributor
Hoover, Lou Henry
maker
unknown
ID Number
2013.0121.19
accession number
2013.0121
catalog number
2013.0121.19
One of a set of six identical curved stylized cone or paisley shaped black silk Chantilly bobbin lace appliqués or insertions. The attached paper tag states "131, 6 pieces, No 10/55, Chantilly, made by hand in Flanders for the C'on for Relief in Belgium, M. Kefer Mali".
Description
One of a set of six identical curved stylized cone or paisley shaped black silk Chantilly bobbin lace appliqués or insertions. The attached paper tag states "131, 6 pieces, No 10/55, Chantilly, made by hand in Flanders for the C'on for Relief in Belgium, M. Kefer Mali". Each piece is labeled "10/55, $.45 each". Madame Kefer-Mali was one of four women on the Lace Committee working with the Commission for Relief in Belgium. The lace was made by Belgian lace makers during World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1914-1919
associated date
1914-1918
facilitator
Hoover, Herbert
previous owner
Kefer-Mali, M.
maker
unknown
ID Number
2013.0121.37
accession number
2013.0121
catalog number
2013.0121.37
One of a set of six identical curved stylized cone or paisley shaped black silk Chantilly bobbin lace appliqués or insertions. The attached paper tag states "131, 6 pieces, No 10/55, Chantilly, made by hand in Flanders for the C'on for Relief in Belgium, M. Kefer Mali".
Description
One of a set of six identical curved stylized cone or paisley shaped black silk Chantilly bobbin lace appliqués or insertions. The attached paper tag states "131, 6 pieces, No 10/55, Chantilly, made by hand in Flanders for the C'on for Relief in Belgium, M. Kefer Mali". Each piece is labeled "10/55, $.45 each". Madame Kefer-Mali was one of four women on the Lace Committee working with the Commission for Relief in Belgium. The lace was made by Belgian lace makers during World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1914-1918
1914-1919
made during
1914-1918
Helped create Commission for Relief in Belgium
Hoover, Herbert
previous owner
Kefer-Mali, M.
maker
unknown
ID Number
2013.0121.38
accession number
2013.0121
catalog number
2013.0121.38
This lace collar is made with fine Brussels bobbin lace motifs in Louis XVI style, connected by droschel bobbin lace ground.
Description
This lace collar is made with fine Brussels bobbin lace motifs in Louis XVI style, connected by droschel bobbin lace ground. The attached tag has a red wax seal embossed with “Commission for Relief in Belgium, Dentelle Belge” and includes an image of the Belgian Lion in the center.
The card on the back of the seal reads: "N° 13/0446 Point Bruxelles Droschel Louis XVI made by hand. Sold by the C'on for Relief in Belgium". The lace was made by Belgian lace makers during World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1914-1918
agent
Hoover, Herbert
maker
unknown
ID Number
2013.0121.20
accession number
2013.0121
catalog number
2013.0121.20
One of a set of six identical curved stylized cone or paisley shaped black silk Chantilly bobbin lace appliqués or insertions. The attached paper tag states "131, 6 pieces, No 10/55, Chantilly, made by hand in Flanders for the C'on for Relief in Belgium, M. Kefer Mali".
Description
One of a set of six identical curved stylized cone or paisley shaped black silk Chantilly bobbin lace appliqués or insertions. The attached paper tag states "131, 6 pieces, No 10/55, Chantilly, made by hand in Flanders for the C'on for Relief in Belgium, M. Kefer Mali". Each piece is labeled "10/55, $.45 each". Madame Kefer-Mali was one of four women on the Lace Committee working with the Commission for Relief in Belgium. The lace was made by Belgian lace makers during World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1914-1918
made during
1914-1918
Helped create Commission for Relief in Belgium
Hoover, Herbert
previous owner
Kefer-Mali, M.
maker
unknown
ID Number
2013.0121.41
accession number
2013.0121
catalog number
2013.0121.41
One of a set of six identical curved stylized cone or paisley shaped black silk Chantilly bobbin lace appliqués or insertions. The attached paper tag states "131, 6 pieces, No 10/55, Chantilly, made by hand in Flanders for the C'on for Relief in Belgium, M. Kefer Mali".
Description
One of a set of six identical curved stylized cone or paisley shaped black silk Chantilly bobbin lace appliqués or insertions. The attached paper tag states "131, 6 pieces, No 10/55, Chantilly, made by hand in Flanders for the C'on for Relief in Belgium, M. Kefer Mali". Each piece is labeled "10/55, $.45 each". Madame Kefer-Mali was one of four women on the Lace Committee working with the Commission for Relief in Belgium. The lace was made by Belgian lace makers during World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1914-1918
made during
1914-1918
Helped create Commission for Relief in Belgium
Hoover, Herbert
previous owner
Kefer-Mali, M.
maker
unknown
ID Number
2013.0121.40
accession number
2013.0121
catalog number
2013.0121.40
One of a set of six identical curved stylized cone or paisley shaped black silk Chantilly bobbin lace appliqués or insertions. The attached paper tag states "131, 6 pieces, No 10/55, Chantilly, made by hand in Flanders for the C'on for Relief in Belgium, M. Kefer Mali".
Description
One of a set of six identical curved stylized cone or paisley shaped black silk Chantilly bobbin lace appliqués or insertions. The attached paper tag states "131, 6 pieces, No 10/55, Chantilly, made by hand in Flanders for the C'on for Relief in Belgium, M. Kefer Mali". Each piece is labeled "10/55, $.45 each". Madame Kefer-Mali was one of four women on the Lace Committee working with the Commission for Relief in Belgium. The lace was made by Belgian lace makers during World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1914-1918
made during
1914-1918
Helped create Commission for Relief in Belgium
Hoover, Herbert
previous owner
Kefer-Mali, M.
maker
unknown
ID Number
2013.0121.42
accession number
2013.0121
catalog number
2013.0121.42
This paper tag is labeled "N° 13/0436 Point Alençon Louis XVI made by hand in... for the C'on for Relief in Belgium" On the reverse is a red wax seal embossed with “Commission for Relief in Belgium, Dentelle Belge” and an image of the Belgian Lion.
Description
This paper tag is labeled "N° 13/0436 Point Alençon Louis XVI made by hand in... for the C'on for Relief in Belgium" On the reverse is a red wax seal embossed with “Commission for Relief in Belgium, Dentelle Belge” and an image of the Belgian Lion. A black, yellow, and orange cord is sealed into the wax, and “$24.00” is lightly penciled in on the card. The tag came to the museum without the lace attached.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1914-1919
facilitator
Hoover, Herbert
maker
unknown
ID Number
2013.0121.21
accession number
2013.0121
catalog number
2013.0121.21

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