Textiles

The 50,000 objects in the textile collections fall into two main categories: raw fibers, yarns, and fabrics, and machines, tools, and other textile technology. Shawls, coverlets, samplers, laces, linens, synthetics, and other fabrics are part of the first group, along with the 400 quilts in the National Quilt Collection. Some of the Museum's most popular artifacts, such as the Star-Spangled Banner and the gowns of the first ladies, have an obvious textile connection.

The machinery and tools include spinning wheels, sewing machines, thimbles, needlework tools, looms, and an invention that changed the course of American agriculture and society. A model of Eli Whitney's cotton gin, made by the inventor in the early 1800s, shows the workings of a machine that helped make cotton plantations profitable in the South and encouraged the spread of slavery.

This red and white, cotton and wool, overshot coverlet comes from the Copp Family collection of Stonington, Connecticut and was woven sometime between 1790 and 1800.
Description
This red and white, cotton and wool, overshot coverlet comes from the Copp Family collection of Stonington, Connecticut and was woven sometime between 1790 and 1800. The pattern is a variation of the “Monk’s Belt” pattern most commonly known as “Braddock’s Defeat.” The coverlet is constructed of a natural linen warp, natural cotton weft, and madder-dyed, red wool supplementary weft yarnsThe coverlet is composed of three panels woven as one length, cut, and seamed with a 2-ply, S-twist, Z-spun, linen thread. This a 2.75 inch looped fringe is attached to three sides. The coverlet is a rare example of early imported spun cotton threads being used in weaving. The cotton yarns were not yet strong enough for use as warp threads, but here serve as the ground cloth weft threads.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
early 19th century
probably late 18th century
date made
c. 1770-1800
c. 1790-1800
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.H6675
catalog number
H006675.000
accession number
28810
Length of a Cheney Brothers jacquard-figured silk 'Frisons', meaning a textured surface from a slubbed weft yarn, 1913. Jacquard-woven repeating design of an ogee grid with stylized tulips in the reserves.
Description (Brief)
Length of a Cheney Brothers jacquard-figured silk 'Frisons', meaning a textured surface from a slubbed weft yarn, 1913. Jacquard-woven repeating design of an ogee grid with stylized tulips in the reserves. Slubbed plain weave "silk frisons" ground with coarse weft float patterning. Inspired by an early 17th c. ogee pattern with tulips. Piece dyed dusty rose (dull medium pink). (W. 32 in., L. 36 in.)
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1913
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T00098
catalog number
T00098.000
accession number
55080
A sample length of Cheney Brothers "Printed Frisons" dress silk, 1913. Pinkish-tan ground of slubbed (spun silk yarns) plain weave silk, printed with a closely spaced modernist design of irregular multi-colored spots.
Description (Brief)
A sample length of Cheney Brothers "Printed Frisons" dress silk, 1913. Pinkish-tan ground of slubbed (spun silk yarns) plain weave silk, printed with a closely spaced modernist design of irregular multi-colored spots. Fauve-inspired print colors are dark green, orange, yellow, medium green, medium blue, light blue, dark red, Some colors may be due to overprinting one shade with another. File gives fabric width as 30", with a donation of a full yard length. Cheney's numbers are: Com: 3755; No: 77357, Color: 3724/1 Part of a large donation of fibers, yarns, fabrics, original designs, and printing tools given by Cheney Brothers, one of the earliest and largest of America's silk manufacturers, in 1913.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1913
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T01032.000
catalog number
T01032.000
accession number
56298
Length of Cheney Brothers jacquard-woven, figured furnishing silk, 1913. The pattern is a simplified version of an 18th c. floral ogee medallion design in a compound weave, with matte pale green flowers on a finely striped (faux strie), satin weave green ground. (W. 50 in., L.
Description (Brief)
Length of Cheney Brothers jacquard-woven, figured furnishing silk, 1913. The pattern is a simplified version of an 18th c. floral ogee medallion design in a compound weave, with matte pale green flowers on a finely striped (faux strie), satin weave green ground. (W. 50 in., L. 36 in.) Mfrs. #s: Com. 4564; No 77953; Color 3486/1.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1913
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T01053.000
catalog number
T01053.000
Length of Cheney Brothers silk fabric. Jacquard-woven, continuous supplementary weft patterned all-silk fabric composed of spun silk warp with 12 shuttles of different colors of silk producing the figures.
Description
Length of Cheney Brothers silk fabric. Jacquard-woven, continuous supplementary weft patterned all-silk fabric composed of spun silk warp with 12 shuttles of different colors of silk producing the figures. Patterned with a 17th century (Baroque) Flemish-style medallion and meander design of urns of flowers and wreaths of flowers, wheat, and grapes in blue, green, purple, and pink on narrow striped yellow ground. Style 4584/4. Wholesaled for $18.75 per yd. (W. 50 in., L. 3 1/3 yds.)
These furnishing silks were, along with the patterned velvets, represent the most expensive and exclusive textiles that Cheney Brothers produced.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1925
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T05114.000
catalog number
T05114.000
A length of Cheney Brothers printed "Princess Satin" dress silk, 1915.
Description (Brief)
A length of Cheney Brothers printed "Princess Satin" dress silk, 1915. Lightweight, drapey satin-weave silk fabric, printed with Japanese-inspired modernist design featuring striped white and pink, orange, green, gray flower heads and sprays and black and white arcs on a purple ground. (W. 30 in., L. 36 in.) The diagonally striped flower heads are suggestive of Japanese textile printing techniques.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1915
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T02637.000
catalog number
T02637.000
accession number
58458
Length of Cheney Brothers lightweight figured silk fabric, 1913. Broken twill weave ground with weft-float patterning of Chinese dragon roundels.Company term was "Broche", but this is not a brocade in the strict sense, just a weft float figure, no supplementary wefts. All silk.
Description (Brief)
Length of Cheney Brothers lightweight figured silk fabric, 1913. Broken twill weave ground with weft-float patterning of Chinese dragon roundels.Company term was "Broche", but this is not a brocade in the strict sense, just a weft float figure, no supplementary wefts. All silk. Piece dyed medium gray-blue. Circular medallions w/ five-toed dragons.Company literature says it was “Used for curtains. Jacquard loom warp of reeled Japan two-thread organzine. Filling Canton rereeled. Pure dye.” [Source: “The Upholsterer” 15 Feb. 1918 pg. 62, “The Upholsterer” 15 Aug 1924 pg. 105.] (W. 30 in., L. 36 in.)
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1913
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T00095
catalog number
T00095.000
accession number
55080
Sample cut of Cheney Brothers "Broche Silk" fabric. Figured silk (and possibly artificial silk) lightweight "tissue" style fabric, jacquard woven, supplementary weft patterned "broche". Repeating half drop design of palmettes within imbricated scallops bordered by laurel .
Description (Brief)
Sample cut of Cheney Brothers "Broche Silk" fabric. Figured silk (and possibly artificial silk) lightweight "tissue" style fabric, jacquard woven, supplementary weft patterned "broche". Repeating half drop design of palmettes within imbricated scallops bordered by laurel . Two weft yarns: a very shiny golden yellow silk or artificial silk, and green. Dull orange (salmon) warp yarns, of silk. Pattern of weft floats in gold and green on a changeable ground of salmon shot with gold. 3"x6" and 6"x8" pieces cut from corner of the sample. (W. 49 in., L. 18 in.)
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1913
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T00094
catalog number
T00094.000
accession number
55080
Length of Cheney Brothers "Antique Velvet" furnishing fabric, 1913. Silk. Reproduction antique velvet. Construction; pile weave, cut velvet. Yarns: warp – gold, weft – gold, pile warp – garnet red. Yarn dyed.
Description (Brief)
Length of Cheney Brothers "Antique Velvet" furnishing fabric, 1913. Silk. Reproduction antique velvet. Construction; pile weave, cut velvet. Yarns: warp – gold, weft – gold, pile warp – garnet red. Yarn dyed. Pattern: “Reproduction Antique velvet,” strie effect (subtle, irregular, vertical striping) from varying pile densities across the width, which varies the intensity of the red. (W. 26-1/2 in., L. 36 in.)
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1913
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T00074
catalog number
T00074.000
accession number
55080
Sample length of a Cheney Brothers "Colonial Prints" Frisons dress silk, 1913. Lightweight plain weave made with irregular slubbed spun silk warp and weft yarns. Printed allover floral design with a diagonal meander repeat.
Description (Brief)
Sample length of a Cheney Brothers "Colonial Prints" Frisons dress silk, 1913. Lightweight plain weave made with irregular slubbed spun silk warp and weft yarns. Printed allover floral design with a diagonal meander repeat. Ecru ground, blue and orange flowers with green and yellow leaves and stems. (W. 31 in., L. 36 in.) A page from a Cheney Brothers sample book having two small swatches of this fabric in 2 additional colorways (pinks and oranges; yellows and light purples) is filed in the study swatches. The page is labelled "Colonial Prints" 32 inch.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1913
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T00064
catalog number
T00064.000
accession number
55080
Length of Cheney Brothers "Antique Brocade" furnishing fabric, 1913. . All silk, compound satin weave with continuous supplementary weft patterning (not a true brocade). Colors: Blue, green, and gold. Pattern: Urn and flowers within foliate meander ogee.
Description (Brief)
Length of Cheney Brothers "Antique Brocade" furnishing fabric, 1913. . All silk, compound satin weave with continuous supplementary weft patterning (not a true brocade). Colors: Blue, green, and gold. Pattern: Urn and flowers within foliate meander ogee. Reproduction of 17th-18th century'antique' ogee meander design brocade. Pale blue figures on green and brown ground. with strie effect. Yarns: warp – light blue, weft – brown and green. Pattern; Floral jardinière, lengthwise repeat height - 15 in. (W. 50 in., L. 36 in.)
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1913
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T00104.000
catalog number
T00104.000
accession number
55080
Miniature sewing machine and cabinet; cabinet decorated with six panel paintings and inlaid with mother-of-pearl depicting wedding of Tom Thumb and Lavinia Warren Bump, their carriage ride in Central Park, patriotic panels of each of them with the American flag, and the back pane
Description
Miniature sewing machine and cabinet; cabinet decorated with six panel paintings and inlaid with mother-of-pearl depicting wedding of Tom Thumb and Lavinia Warren Bump, their carriage ride in Central Park, patriotic panels of each of them with the American flag, and the back panels show a woman sewing by hand and then sewing using a Wheeler and Wilson Sewing Machine. All sides of the case protecting the sewing machine head have painted decorations: an American Eagle is painted on the front; on the right side a cherub with crossed arms; on the left side a cherub resting his chin on a hand; and the Wheeler and Wilson factory is shown on the back. Inside the cabinet are five drawers with ivory knobs containing sewing bobbins, four glass presser feet, one package of five needles, one wrench and one attachment guide The flywheel and other parts within the cabinet are silver-plated. Two separate foot shaped treadles measure a tiny 7 1/2"L x 2"W.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1862
owner
Thumb, Tom
Bump, Lavinia Warren
maker
Wheeler and Wilson Manufacturing Company
ID Number
1992.0109.01
catalog number
1992.0109.01
accession number
1992.0109
A length of Cheney Brothers "Kensington" printed furnishing silk, 1915; Chinoiserie design. A tussah silk pongee, slightly coarse plain weave.
Description (Brief)
A length of Cheney Brothers "Kensington" printed furnishing silk, 1915; Chinoiserie design. A tussah silk pongee, slightly coarse plain weave. Printed in Chinoiserie style; island layout scenes with female figures having tea, framed by foliate scrolls, vases, and furniture; with flowers and butterflies, in beige, tan, browns, blue, lavender, greens, white, and black on an orange ground. (W. 30 in., 36 in.) Suitable for summer drapery or for items of apparel such as dressing gowns.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1915
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T02642.000
catalog number
T02642.000
accession number
58458
Skein of Raw Silk, Manchuria, Cheney Brothers, 1913. 1 skein. Part of gift illustrating all the steps in making silk textiles at the Cheney Brothers mill in South Manchester, CT. Sales offices: 4th Ave. and 18th St., New York CityCurrently not on view
Description (Brief)
Skein of Raw Silk, Manchuria, Cheney Brothers, 1913. 1 skein. Part of gift illustrating all the steps in making silk textiles at the Cheney Brothers mill in South Manchester, CT. Sales offices: 4th Ave. and 18th St., New York City
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1913
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T00114.000
catalog number
T00114.000
accession number
55080
catalog number
T114
Length of Cheney Brothers printed silk fabric, "Mysore Silk". Thin plain weave silk, Tussah yarns (wild silk) retain some sericin. Printed with allover design of vaguely Chinese style, with pomegranate branches, leafy scrolls, and large urns.
Description
Length of Cheney Brothers printed silk fabric, "Mysore Silk". Thin plain weave silk, Tussah yarns (wild silk) retain some sericin. Printed with allover design of vaguely Chinese style, with pomegranate branches, leafy scrolls, and large urns. Black ground, pattern in coral, light and medium blue, bright blue, yellow, and green.
Original cataloging: Printed Mysore silk. A plain canvas-like fabric made of tussah silk. Oriental pattern in 8 colors on a black ground. Width: 32"
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1916
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T02838.000
catalog number
T02838.000
accession number
59368
Length of Cheney Brothers printed silk satin fabric.
Description (Brief)
Length of Cheney Brothers printed silk satin fabric. Japanese-inspired pattern of cherry blossom sprays in white, gray and pink on a lavender-pink ground with a variety of interspersed cartouche shapes, framing natural scenes of ducks, nesting bird with peonies, boat, and a lake/harbor scene with mountains in the distance. (W. 30 in., L. 36 in.)
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1913
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T00061
catalog number
T00061.000
accession number
55080
Sample length of Cheney Brothers printed "Shikii" silk fabric. A lightweight, drapey plain weave fabric; rough surfaced, with silk warp and silk frisons weft.
Description
Sample length of Cheney Brothers printed "Shikii" silk fabric. A lightweight, drapey plain weave fabric; rough surfaced, with silk warp and silk frisons weft. Printed with an allover pattern of Persian or Indian-inspired vases, flowers, and feathers in vases (#25546) in brown, orange, tan, black, and white on natural pongee-colored (beige) ground. Style #6562/2. Wholesaled for $1.50 per yd. (W. 30 in., L. 36 in.)
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1925
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T05124.000
accession number
87434
catalog number
T05124.000
Length of Cheney Brothers Novelty Velvet, "Fancy Velours Chiffon",1913. A medium weight silk novelty velvet. Horizontal lines of cut pile in black, voided to rows of blue ground in between.
Description (Brief)
Length of Cheney Brothers Novelty Velvet, "Fancy Velours Chiffon",1913. A medium weight silk novelty velvet. Horizontal lines of cut pile in black, voided to rows of blue ground in between. At intervals there are bands of lines with more distance between the pile lines, and more blue showing through.Black pile on blue ground Construction; pile weave, cut velvet. Yarns - all silk: warp – black, weft – blue, pile – black. (W. 42 in., L. 1 yard.) [NB: The linked image is the correct one, it just has a brown cast, instead of black.] Blue selvage. A swatch card in the study file with this sample describes it as "Used for dress goods. Spun silk pile, silk back, yarn dyed."
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1913
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T00090
catalog number
T00090.000
accession number
55080
Sample length of a Cheney Brothers border-printed Marquisette dress silk, 1913. Sheer open plain weave with regular, 7/16" wide satin stripes. Printed border of rose swags in pinks and greens, draped from yellow bows, on a white ground.
Description (Brief)
Sample length of a Cheney Brothers border-printed Marquisette dress silk, 1913. Sheer open plain weave with regular, 7/16" wide satin stripes. Printed border of rose swags in pinks and greens, draped from yellow bows, on a white ground. Cheney Silks retail label glued to corner of sample. (W. 24 in., L. 36 in.)
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1913
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T00070
catalog number
T00070.000
accession number
55080
A length of a Cheney Brothers "Tapestry" furnishing fabric, 1913. Intended for use in upholstery. Not truly tapestry woven - it is a continuous weft patterned compound satin weave, jacquard-loom-woven fabric.
Description (Brief)
A length of a Cheney Brothers "Tapestry" furnishing fabric, 1913. Intended for use in upholstery. Not truly tapestry woven - it is a continuous weft patterned compound satin weave, jacquard-loom-woven fabric. Design reminiscent of 1740s-40s "island layoit" but with a vaguely modern set of motifs, such as palm strees and sailboats, as well as exotic blossoms, in light and dark blue on a golden yellow ground. Cheney Brothers logo woven into selvedge. (W. 50 in., L. 2 1/2 yds.) Mfrs. #s: Com.4765; No. 79486; Color 3408/1. The design for this, painted on point paper, is T-1049.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1913
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T01050.000
catalog number
T01050.000
Length of a Cheney Brothers multicolored silk satin damask, 1913. All silk turned satin weave damask. Foliate wreath and artichoke ogival design in gold on blue, green, gold striped ground. Yarns: warp – green, blue, tan, weft – gold color.
Description (Brief)
Length of a Cheney Brothers multicolored silk satin damask, 1913. All silk turned satin weave damask. Foliate wreath and artichoke ogival design in gold on blue, green, gold striped ground. Yarns: warp – green, blue, tan, weft – gold color. Pattern; Warp striped ground of satin weave; reverse of the satin weave is the leaf pattern ogee in slide layout; the lengthwise pattern repeat is 22 in. (W. 51 in., L. 36 in.) Renaissance into 17th century style.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1913
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T00103.000
catalog number
T00103.000
accession number
55080
Cheney Brothers printed silk pongee "Florentine", 1915.
Description (Brief)
Cheney Brothers printed silk pongee "Florentine", 1915. A lightweight, spun silk filled pongee, printed with a dense, allover patchwork-look, garden-inspired pattern of various geometric and floral filled irregular reserves - and the letter W - in blue, white, red, green and brown outlined in black. (W. 32 in., L. 36 in.) Made as a decorative or furnishing fabric. "The company's description of this textiles as "Florentine" may have referred to the fabric quality and not the pattern name.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1915
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T02638.000
catalog number
T02638.000
accession number
58458
Length of Cheney Brothers printed Florentine Silk. Very lightwieght plain weave. Printed with overall naturalistic pattern of locust flowers in pinks, red-orange, and purple with green leaves on a white ground. (W. 32 in., L.
Description (Brief)
Length of Cheney Brothers printed Florentine Silk. Very lightwieght plain weave. Printed with overall naturalistic pattern of locust flowers in pinks, red-orange, and purple with green leaves on a white ground. (W. 32 in., L. 36 in.) A Cheney sample card for printed FLorentine, with a different design on a small swatch, gives the following additional information: "Used for Kimonas (sic) and Bed Quilts and for light decorative purposes. Woven with Italian gum silk warp and spun silk singles filling."
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1913
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T00058
catalog number
T00058.000
accession number
55080
Length of Cheney Brothers all silk jacquard-woven grenadine, 1913. A Japanese-inspired pattern based on ultra lightweight summer kimono fabrics. Small repeating eight-petal floral crest design within an ogee grid on an open plain weave ground with plain weave flowers.
Description (Brief)
Length of Cheney Brothers all silk jacquard-woven grenadine, 1913. A Japanese-inspired pattern based on ultra lightweight summer kimono fabrics. Small repeating eight-petal floral crest design within an ogee grid on an open plain weave ground with plain weave flowers. Color: a muted golden yellow. Imitation gauze weave. (W. 30-1/2 in., L. 36 in.)
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1913
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T00096
catalog number
T00096.000
accession number
55080

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