Textiles

The 50,000 objects in the textile collections fall into two main categories: raw fibers, yarns, and fabrics, and machines, tools, and other textile technology. Shawls, coverlets, samplers, laces, linens, synthetics, and other fabrics are part of the first group, along with the 400 quilts in the National Quilt Collection. Some of the Museum's most popular artifacts, such as the Star-Spangled Banner and the gowns of the first ladies, have an obvious textile connection.

The machinery and tools include spinning wheels, sewing machines, thimbles, needlework tools, looms, and an invention that changed the course of American agriculture and society. A model of Eli Whitney's cotton gin, made by the inventor in the early 1800s, shows the workings of a machine that helped make cotton plantations profitable in the South and encouraged the spread of slavery.

Mrs. Louise Abigail Richard Maxey (1845-1929) of Franklin County, Virginia wove this red, white, and blue “Monk’s Belt”, overshot coverlet at the age of 17 in 1860.
Description
Mrs. Louise Abigail Richard Maxey (1845-1929) of Franklin County, Virginia wove this red, white, and blue “Monk’s Belt”, overshot coverlet at the age of 17 in 1860. The coverlet measures 93.5 inches by 61 inches and was constructed from two panels seamed up the center.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1860
date made
c. 1860
ID Number
TE.T13599
catalog number
T13599.000
accession number
259882
Embroidered sampler worked in 1830 by 11-year old Mary Harrison of Alexandria, Virginia. In upper half of sampler, flanking verses, flowering plant with birds flying overhead, and lady and gentleman under tree.
Description
Embroidered sampler worked in 1830 by 11-year old Mary Harrison of Alexandria, Virginia. In upper half of sampler, flanking verses, flowering plant with birds flying overhead, and lady and gentleman under tree. Man wears short flared coat and carries cane; lady wears elaborate hat, long-sleeved dress, and pantalettes, and carries small bag with long ribbon straps and what appears to be furled parasol. In lower half, large flat-roofed building with tall windows and columns. On flat roof recessed second story also flat-roofed but with large semicircular window. Building stands on lawn (or hill) flanked by trees, urns of flowers, and spotted dog. Border of geometric strawberry vine on all four sides. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground. STITCHES: cross, crosslet, queen, satin, double cross, four-sided, chain, stem. THREAD COUNT: warp 29, weft 31/in.
Inscriptions:
"What iS the blooming fair
And tincture of the Skin
to Peace of mind from care
And harmony within
Sickness and age will blaSt
All outward charmeS away
Virtue will Sooth at last
in deathS tremendiouS day
See the Kind Shepherd JeSuS StandS
with all engaging charmeS
Hark how he calls his tender lambs
And folds them in his arms
Mary Harrison Aged Eleven Years
Alexandria July 1830"
Background:
Mary Harrison was born September 18, 1818, to John and Elizabeth Carlin Harrison of Alexandria, Virginia She married December 28, 1842, Isaac Kell (1814-1864). She died June 30, 1906.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1830
maker
Harrison, Mary
ID Number
TE.T14710
catalog number
T14710
accession number
280469
Overshot, natural & indigo-dyed coverlet; Pine Bloom design. Probably made in VA by the donors great-grandmother Johnston (no middle name given) (Elizabeth Babb Rusk's grandmother Johnston.)Currently not on view
Description (Brief)
Overshot, natural & indigo-dyed coverlet; Pine Bloom design. Probably made in VA by the donors great-grandmother Johnston (no middle name given) (Elizabeth Babb Rusk's grandmother Johnston.)
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1830s
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T9002
catalog number
T09002.000
accession number
168187
This sampler features six block alphabets: five of 26 letters and one double. All the rows are separated by simple geometric crossbands.
Description
This sampler features six block alphabets: five of 26 letters and one double. All the rows are separated by simple geometric crossbands. Mary Stabler’s sampler is an example of a marking sampler that consisted predominately of alphabets and numbers, and was usually the first sampler a young lady stitched. Alphabets were used to mark linens for identification. Mary included the inscription:

“Mary P Stabler’s
Work
Aged 11 Alexandria”
The sampler is stitched with silk and cotton embroidery thread on a linen ground with a thread count of warp 28, weft 29/in. The stitches used are: cross, crosslet, four-sided, double cross, rice, Algerian eye, queen, and herringbone.
Mary Pleasants Stabler was born on January 30, 1809, to Edward and Mary Hartshorne Stabler in Alexandria, Virginia. In 1835 she married John Leadbeater and they had eight children - Edward S., Lucy, Mary G., Alice, Anna, Alice, William, and Thomas. Mary died on August 9, 1863. See her daughter Anna Leadbeater’s samplers.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1819-1821
maker
Stabler, Mary P.
ID Number
TE.T12610
catalog number
T12610
accession number
235642
Mary Winfield crafted this small quilt for her granddaughter, Julia A. Poole, of Dinwiddie Co., Virginia. Possibly it was intended as a doll quilt. The quilt is composed of 3-inch blocks, some pieced in the “Nine-patch” pattern, some plain.
Description
Mary Winfield crafted this small quilt for her granddaughter, Julia A. Poole, of Dinwiddie Co., Virginia. Possibly it was intended as a doll quilt. The quilt is composed of 3-inch blocks, some pieced in the “Nine-patch” pattern, some plain. Each plain block is quilted with a single flower or bird.
Mary W. Tucker was born about 1764 in Virginia. She married William Winfield III (1762-1837) on January 6th in either 1783 or 1787. She made another small quilt, also in the Collection, for the same granddaughter.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1835-1850
maker
Winfield, Mary
ID Number
TE.T02139.00A
accession number
57609
catalog number
T02139A
Mary Winfield crafted this small pieced quilt of diamond-shaped blocks for her granddaughter, Julia A. Poole, of Dinwiddie Co., Virginia. Possibly it was intended as a doll quilt.
Description
Mary Winfield crafted this small pieced quilt of diamond-shaped blocks for her granddaughter, Julia A. Poole, of Dinwiddie Co., Virginia. Possibly it was intended as a doll quilt. Some of the diamond-shaped blocks are pieced in the “Nine-patch” pattern, others are plain white cotton.
Mary W. Tucker was born about 1764 in Virginia. She married William Winfield III (1762-1837) on January 6th in either 1783 or 1787. She made another small quilt, also in the Collection, for the same granddaughter.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1840-1850
maker
Winfield, Mary
ID Number
TE.T02139.00B
accession number
57609
catalog number
T02139B
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T17268.000
catalog number
T17268.000
accession number
318965
Six block alphabets. One double of 26 letters. Numbers through 13. Alphabets and numbers colored in pairs or groups with all rows separated by simple geometric crossbands. No border. Cotton thread on cotton ground.
Description
Six block alphabets. One double of 26 letters. Numbers through 13. Alphabets and numbers colored in pairs or groups with all rows separated by simple geometric crossbands. No border. Cotton thread on cotton ground. STITCHES: cross, four-sided, double cross, rice, Algerian eye, crosslet. THREAD COUNT: warp 25, weft 25/in.
Inscription:
"Anna Leadbeater
to her Father
8 mo 28th
1852.
Age 10"
Background:
Anna was born on October 2, 1842, to John and Mary P. Stabler Leadbeater in Alexandria, Virginia. John Leadbeater was the owner of the Stabler-Leadbeater Apothecary in Alexandria, which today is an apothecary museum. She married Henry C. Slaymaker, a Civil War veteran, on November 6, 1866, and they had three children—Isabel, Henry C. Jr., and Frank. Henry Sr. died of consumption on February 28, 1880, and Anna died on February 15, 1906.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1852
maker
Leadbeater, Anna
ID Number
TE.T12612
catalog number
T12612
accession number
235642
According to family information, shortly after the quilt maker, Sophia Denty, married she moved into a house built in 1729 located in Fairfax, Northern Virginia.
Description
According to family information, shortly after the quilt maker, Sophia Denty, married she moved into a house built in 1729 located in Fairfax, Northern Virginia. The house at the time had an old English garden that Sophia had always admired and it was supposedly the inspiration for the patterns she chose for this quilt top.
Twenty-five 17¼-inch blocks were appliquéd with red and green flowers and leaves in sprays, wreaths, and vases. Embroidery enhances a few of the stems. Two blocks have appliquéd star designs and one has appliquéd pineapples. Plain-weave cottons in plain colors were used. The 8¼-inch border is appliquéd with a meandering vine bearing leaves and buds. The blocks were joined after 1840. The color scheme, red-and-green, and standard designs are typical for many mid-nineteenth-century quilts.
Sophia Barker was born on January 26, 1813, in Fairfax, Virginia. She married James Compton Denty on July 10, 1832. They lived in Northern Virginia with their eight children. Sophia died February 19, 1886 and is buried in the Pohick Church in Accotink, Fairfax, Virginia. Emeline Denty Talbott donated her grandmother’s quilt top to the Smithsonian in 1972.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1840-1860
maker
Denty, Sophia Barker
ID Number
TE.T15351
catalog number
T15351
accession number
293862
Lena T. Leigh, a seamstress in Warrenton, Virginia, and Washington, D.C., assembled this quilt top in the early part of the 20th century.
Description
Lena T. Leigh, a seamstress in Warrenton, Virginia, and Washington, D.C., assembled this quilt top in the early part of the 20th century. One-inch hexagons of a wide variety of print and solid cottons were pieced into 5½-inch rosettes, each separated by a single row of red cotton hexagons. Perhaps the many examples of period cottons were scraps from her dressmaking business.
Lena Malorn was born in Fauquier County, Virginia in 1878. In 1900, she married Thomas Leigh, born in England in 1876. She died March 26, 1946 and is buried in Arlington Cemetery, Virginia.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1900-1910
maker
Leigh, Lena T.
ID Number
TE.T16933
accession number
307851
catalog number
T16933
“This quilt was made in 1840 by Ann, a colored slave girl 16 yrs. old, who wove and spun and took care of all linen on the plantation of Capt. and Mrs. William Womack (Aunt Patsy and Uncle Billy) in Pittsylvania Co. Virginia.
Description
“This quilt was made in 1840 by Ann, a colored slave girl 16 yrs. old, who wove and spun and took care of all linen on the plantation of Capt. and Mrs. William Womack (Aunt Patsy and Uncle Billy) in Pittsylvania Co. Virginia. Grandma Adams made her home with Aunt Patsy after mother’s death and inherited her large estate.” So wrote Mrs. Womack’s great-niece, Florence Adams Dubois in a note included in the 1976 donation.
Little is known of the quiltmaker, Ann. She is probably mentioned in William Womack’s will November 1, 1849, “. . . to my beloved wife Martha Womack during her natural life the following Negro slaves to wit, Ann . . . “
Thirty 14-inch blocks appliquéd with a crossed tulip motif are set with a 2-inch tan sashing. A 5/8-inch orange cotton bias strip is seamed to the front, and whipped to the back along three sides. The fourth side has a 1 ½-inch straight strip of cotton seamed to the front, and whipped to the back. While the blocks may have been made in the 1840s, the bedcover was probably assembled some time later.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1840-1860
ID Number
TE.T18124
accession number
323485
catalog number
T18124
A date of “August 1853” inscribed on seventeen blocks provided a clue to the possible origins of this “Album Patch” quilt. Names and places inscribed on other blocks gave further information.
Description
A date of “August 1853” inscribed on seventeen blocks provided a clue to the possible origins of this “Album Patch” quilt. Names and places inscribed on other blocks gave further information. Probably Rachel Young Roseberry started this quilt when the family moved to Brentsville, Va., from Phillipsburg, N.J., in 1853. At the time she and her husband, Michael, had four young children: Emma (1838-1897), Annie (about 1840-?), John (1843-1915, and, Alice (about 1844-?). The names of friends and relatives appear to have been written by the same hand, maybe at different times, and many are further embellished by different floral drawings.
Thirty-six nine-inch “Album Patch” or “Friendship Chain” pieced blocks are composed of plain red and white or printed green and white cottons. The “Album” blocks are framed by a 1 ½-inch border of printed green and plain white triangles. All blocks are signed in ink denoting name, and sometimes a date and/or place. Ink drawings are added to several of the inscriptions. The same red and green cottons and thread were used throughout the quilt and nearly half are inscribed “1853.” The addition of dates of “1858,” “1859,” and “1871,” suggest signatures may have been added after the quilt was completed. Places included Washington, D.C., Youngsville ?, Newark, N. J., and Brentsville, Va.
Rachel Roseberry’s quilt represents a personalized textile document containing names of friends and family and associated dates that may represent visits, marriages, deaths or other significant events related to that name. Album quilts such as this were popular in the mid-19th century, as was the use of the red and green color combination.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1853
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T11232
accession number
209501
catalog number
T11232
Anna (Mrs. Henry C. Slaymaker) and her two sisters, Mary (Mrs. William Boothe) and Lucy (Mrs. Thomas Speiden) worked on this slumber throw top that was never completed.
Description
Anna (Mrs. Henry C. Slaymaker) and her two sisters, Mary (Mrs. William Boothe) and Lucy (Mrs. Thomas Speiden) worked on this slumber throw top that was never completed. Anna’s needlework is also represented by two samplers, embroidered when she was 9 and 10, that are in the Textile Collection.
Twenty blocks, 12 or 13 inches each, are pieced using silks, satins and velvets. Except for two blocks with simple embroidery, they are undecorated. The combination of geometric and crazy-patch piecing gives interest to this unfinished top.
Anna was born on October 2, 1842, to John and Mary P. Stabler Leadbeater in Alexandria, Virginia. John, her father, was the owner of the Stabler-Leadbeater Apothecary in Alexandria. Anna married Henry C. Slaymaker, a Confederate Civil War veteran, on November 6, 1866, and they had three children (Isabel, Henry C. Jr., and Frank).
The donor, Mrs. Clarence Milton Yohn, included a note about Anna's grandfather, Lt. Henry C. Slaymaker. “[He] was only 16 when he served as a civilian informer in 1861 and 1862, carrying messages from Alexandria and Washington, D.C., quilted in his waistcoat and pretending hunting excursions in the woods in order to get to his cousin, Gen. Robert E. Lee. He was about to be hanged in 1862, when he escaped to join the Confederate Army under age.” After the Civil War, Henry Sr. established a dry goods business, but died at 36 of consumption on February 28, 1880. Anna died on February 15, 1906.
Anna’s sister Mary was born in 1839 and married Capt. William Boothe (1818-1894). She died in 1914. Lucy, the third sister, was born about 1838 and married Thomas Speiden. The three sisters were from the family who founded the Stabler-Leadbeater Apothecary Shop, which was operated by family members from 1796 to 1933, when it became a pharmacy museum. The buildings, which date to the early 1800s, have withstood four wars and a major city fire, and currently house the Stabler-Leadbeater Apothecary Museum in Alexandria, Virginia.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1885-1900
maker
Leadbeater, Mary Grace
Leadbeater, Lucy
Leadbeater, Anna
ID Number
TE.T12613
accession number
235642
catalog number
T12613
The “Carolina Lily” pattern, popular in the mid-19th century, was chosen for this example of an album quilt. Roller-printed red and blue-green cotton fabrics make up the pieced and appliquéd pattern.
Description
The “Carolina Lily” pattern, popular in the mid-19th century, was chosen for this example of an album quilt. Roller-printed red and blue-green cotton fabrics make up the pieced and appliquéd pattern. The “Carolina Lily” blocks, quilted in diagonal lines, alternate with plain white blocks each quilted with a different floral design. There is a 1-7/8-inch sawtooth band inside the 7-inch plain white border. The border is quilted with a scrolling feathered vine. The quilting is finely done at 12 stitches/inch.
Twenty-one of the “Carolina Lily” blocks have a signature along the stem. Six of the surnames are Crumbaker and six are Stoutsenberger, all born in Lovettsville, Virginia. These families are buried in the New Jerusalem Church Cemetery, the Saint James Reformed Cemetery, or the Lovettsville Union Cemetery. It is not known why or for whom the quilt was made, but the many signatures indicate the place where it was most likely made and used.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1840-1860
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T11176
accession number
205528
catalog number
T11176
This patriotic quilt in red and green was the inspiration for Edith Magnette’s watercolor (Plate 227) that was part of the Index of American Design project (1935-1942).
Description
This patriotic quilt in red and green was the inspiration for Edith Magnette’s watercolor (Plate 227) that was part of the Index of American Design project (1935-1942). Edith Magnette rendered over 50 items for the Index , many of them textile-related.
The quilt was originally owned by Mrs. Charles Gramm and made by her grandmother. It was lent to the project by Louise Zotti, and donated by her to the National Museum of American History.
The central eagle motif, surrounded by 8-pointed stars, is typical of patriotic symbols of the mid-19th century. The blocks on the border are in the “Oak Leaf and Reel” pattern, also typical of the period.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1853
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T16386
accession number
303433
catalog number
T16386
Baskets have long been a popular motif on quilts. Pieced basket patterns became popular in the mid-19th century. This example is in red and green plain-woven cottons. The lining is a roller-printed cotton.
Description
Baskets have long been a popular motif on quilts. Pieced basket patterns became popular in the mid-19th century. This example is in red and green plain-woven cottons. The lining is a roller-printed cotton. The red and green baskets are pieced and appliqued on 7-inch white blocks, alternating with red and green blocks. The border consists of 3-inch bands; red, green and white at the sides; red and white at the top and bottom. The lining, blocks and border strips are machine stitched. It is quilted at 6-7 stitches per inch. The well-planned quilt, in vivid colors, is an interesting variation of the basket quilt.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1875-1885
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T11175
accession number
205529
catalog number
T11175
Elizabeth Franklin of Montross, Virginia wove this three panel, overshot, red, white, and blue, cotton and wool coverlet sometime between approximately 1790 and 1814. Franklin’s great-grand-daughter, Evelyn Balderson Riley (b.
Description
Elizabeth Franklin of Montross, Virginia wove this three panel, overshot, red, white, and blue, cotton and wool coverlet sometime between approximately 1790 and 1814. Franklin’s great-grand-daughter, Evelyn Balderson Riley (b. 1885) stated that the coverlet was “in the family when the British raided Baltimore and the Potomac." More research is needed to link Evelyn B. Riley to Elizabeth Franklin, and the nature of late-eighteenth- and early-nineteenth-century genealogical documents makes identifying female ancestors all the more difficult. What is known is that Riley’s paternal grandfather, James B. Balderson (b. c.1805) and his wife, Telicia Phenzen Balderson (b. c.1803) owned at least fifty-five enslaved people according to the 1840 Slave Schedule. These were wealthy landed families, and the weaving of coverlets, although possibly done by the women of the family, likely involved the free labor of enslaved women and children.
The coverlet pattern is most commonly referred to as “Pine Blossom/Bloom,” but, as with all coverlet pattern names, they varied based on time and geography. The coverlet is made from cotton and wool, Z-spun singles, suggesting hand spinning for both yarns and an early date of creation. The three panel coverlet measures 111”x78”.
Date made
19th Century
date made
1790-1814
maker
Franklin, Elizabeth
ID Number
TE.T7410
catalog number
T.07410.000
?I7410.000
accession number
129754
Elspeth Duigan crafted this fine example of a white-work quilt in 1849. She divided the center into 8 large and 4 small squares each enclosing stuffed floral motifs.
Description
Elspeth Duigan crafted this fine example of a white-work quilt in 1849. She divided the center into 8 large and 4 small squares each enclosing stuffed floral motifs. According to family information, she quilted the initials “E.D.” in one of the corner squares and it incorporates the date “1849” with the edge of the square a “1”, the “E” is also an “8,” the “4” is represented by the “D” (the fourth letter of the alphabet), and “9” is the top part of the “D”. The lining is a very thin cotton layer, and the motif stuffing is cotton and cotton cord. All the motifs are outlined in quilting. The background is quilted with parallel diagonal lines 3/16-inch apart, 13-14 stitches per inch.
Elspeth Duigan was born in Jamestown, Virginia, in 1831. She married Mr. Thompson in Jamestown and later they moved to Lexington, Kentucky. During the Civil War they moved further West to Lexington, Missouri. Elspeth died in 1894.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1849
maker
Duigan, Elspeth
ID Number
1981.0682.01
catalog number
1981.0682.01
accession number
1981.0682
Two block alphabets. Upper-case alphabet has 26 letters; lower-case alphabet has no "J." One script alphabet with no "J" or "U." Numbers 1 through 14. Border of a vine with triangular flowers or leaves. Silk embroidery thread on linsey-woolsey; blue linen warp, tan wool weft.
Description
Two block alphabets. Upper-case alphabet has 26 letters; lower-case alphabet has no "J." One script alphabet with no "J" or "U." Numbers 1 through 14. Border of a vine with triangular flowers or leaves. Silk embroidery thread on linsey-woolsey; blue linen warp, tan wool weft. STITCHES: cross, Algerian eye, hem. THREAD COUNT: warp 27, weft 26/in.
Inscription:
"Embroidry [sic] decks
The canvas round
And yields a pleasing view
So virtue tends
to deck the mind
and form its blisful [sic] state
Mary W Tyler aged 12 years
Background:
This may have been made by Mary Welles Tyler, born on April 2, 1792, to Nathan and Nancy Tyler, or by Mary Whitwell Tyler, born on June 23, 1798, to Royall II and Mary Tyler.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1775-1825
maker
Tyler, Mary W.
ID Number
1991.0764.01
catalog number
1991.0764.01
accession number
1991.0764

Our collection database is a work in progress. We may update this record based on further research and review. Learn more about our approach to sharing our collection online.

If you would like to know how you can use content on this page, see the Smithsonian's Terms of Use. If you need to request an image for publication or other use, please visit Rights and Reproductions.