Textiles

The 50,000 objects in the textile collections fall into two main categories: raw fibers, yarns, and fabrics, and machines, tools, and other textile technology. Shawls, coverlets, samplers, laces, linens, synthetics, and other fabrics are part of the first group, along with the 400 quilts in the National Quilt Collection. Some of the Museum's most popular artifacts, such as the Star-Spangled Banner and the gowns of the first ladies, have an obvious textile connection.

The machinery and tools include spinning wheels, sewing machines, thimbles, needlework tools, looms, and an invention that changed the course of American agriculture and society. A model of Eli Whitney's cotton gin, made by the inventor in the early 1800s, shows the workings of a machine that helped make cotton plantations profitable in the South and encouraged the spread of slavery.

This needle lace table runner illustrates scenes from the Bayeux Tapestry. Scenes before, during and after the Battle of Hastings, England, in 1066 between Harold and William the Conqueror are depicted along the sides and ends of this nine meter long cloth.
Description
This needle lace table runner illustrates scenes from the Bayeux Tapestry. Scenes before, during and after the Battle of Hastings, England, in 1066 between Harold and William the Conqueror are depicted along the sides and ends of this nine meter long cloth. It might have been commissioned for the banquet table in one of the numerous grand mansions built in the USA early in the 1900’s. The Melville and Ziffer lace workshop in Le Puy, France, exhibited an almost identical table runner at the 1906 Paris World Exhibition.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1900-1910
designer
Melville & Ziffer
maker
Melville & Ziffer
ID Number
1985.0162.01
accession number
1985.0162
catalog number
1985.0162.01
This large triangular lace shawl was made in Brussels point de gaze needle lace. The overall design has fine naturalistic floral motifs with a few sections of the common bold, tightly buttonholed wheels. It shows a very fine overall pattern and execution.
Description
This large triangular lace shawl was made in Brussels point de gaze needle lace. The overall design has fine naturalistic floral motifs with a few sections of the common bold, tightly buttonholed wheels. It shows a very fine overall pattern and execution. It was made in Belgium of fine cotton thread in about the 1850's
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1850-1860
maker
unknown
ID Number
1984.0111.018
accession number
1984.0111
catalog number
1984.0111.018
This wedding veil was designed and made for Princess Stéphanie of Belgium for her wedding to Crown Prince Rudolf of Austria in 1881.
Description
This wedding veil was designed and made for Princess Stéphanie of Belgium for her wedding to Crown Prince Rudolf of Austria in 1881. The Hapsburg-Lothringen shield dominates the center back of the veil, while the coat-of-arms of Belgium is in the center of the garland of 21 coats-of-arms along the border with Belgian province shields on one side and the Austro-Hungarian on the other. The name "Leon Sacré" and "Bruxelles 1880" are worked in needlepoint by the central border motif of the Belgian Lion. The veil is made in fine Brussels Point de Gaze needle lace embellished with elaborate ferns, lilies, roses and other flowers on a gossamer fine handmade ground powdered with tiny dots. Queen Henriette commissioned Leon Sacré to design the veil for her daughter to be made by the best lace makers in Belgium. It was a wedding gift from the city of Brussels
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1880
used date
1881-05-10
1927-01-27
associated date
1964-06-18
ID Number
TE.T13491
catalog number
T13491
accession number
254382
The coat-of-arms of the Belgian province of West Flanders is depicted on this Mechlin bobbin lace piece. It was made by Belgian lace makers during World War I and was most likely intended to be inserted into a larger item. See a similar motif in TE*E383965.Currently not on view
Description
The coat-of-arms of the Belgian province of West Flanders is depicted on this Mechlin bobbin lace piece. It was made by Belgian lace makers during World War I and was most likely intended to be inserted into a larger item. See a similar motif in TE*E383965.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1914-1918
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T16115G
catalog number
T16115G
accession number
297965
This fan leaf was designed for the Belgian Lace Committee by Belgian painter Charles Michel. His name is worked in needle lace into the ground (reseau) along the inner edge.
Description
This fan leaf was designed for the Belgian Lace Committee by Belgian painter Charles Michel. His name is worked in needle lace into the ground (reseau) along the inner edge. The central motif of helmet, swords and weaponry is flanked on either side by the war years 1914 and 1915. The rising sun, laurel leaves and other floral motifs are also included. Brussels bobbin lace was mainly used for the motifs and connected with Point de Gaze type needle lace. Belgian lace makers made this fan leaf during World War I. It has never been mounted to fan sticks.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1915-1916
part of design
1914
1915
maker
unknown
designer
Michel, Charles
ID Number
TE.T14505
catalog number
T14505
accession number
273245
This lion-and-crown motif was designed to represent the coat-of-arms of the Belgian province of Luxembourg. The Mechlin bobbin lace medallion was made by Belgian lace makers during World War I, and was likely intended to be inserted into a larger item.
Description
This lion-and-crown motif was designed to represent the coat-of-arms of the Belgian province of Luxembourg. The Mechlin bobbin lace medallion was made by Belgian lace makers during World War I, and was likely intended to be inserted into a larger item. See a similar motif in TE*E383965.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1914-1918
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T16115H
catalog number
T16115H
accession number
297965
This collar is made in the Ñandutí technique with cotton thread. The motifs are circular and semi-circular and two strips are joined to make the collar. Probably made in Paraguay, South America. Ñandutí lace is made on a foundation fabric, which is removed later.
Description
This collar is made in the Ñandutí technique with cotton thread. The motifs are circular and semi-circular and two strips are joined to make the collar. Probably made in Paraguay, South America. Ñandutí lace is made on a foundation fabric, which is removed later. Lace making was introduced to Paraguay by the Spaniards in the mid 1600's.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1880-1900
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T15212
catalog number
T15212
accession number
290897
This collar is cluny bobbin lace with raised and rolled tallies embellishing the floral shapes. It measures 13 inches around the neck, so might have been made for a child. It is one inch wide at the center, while the points are three inches wide.
Description
This collar is cluny bobbin lace with raised and rolled tallies embellishing the floral shapes. It measures 13 inches around the neck, so might have been made for a child. It is one inch wide at the center, while the points are three inches wide. The collection includes a matching set of cuffs.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1850-1865
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T13173
catalog number
T13174
accession number
250794
This border is made in the Point d’Angleterre technique combining bobbin and needle lace. The details in the intricate floral pattern indicate highly skilled designer and lace makers.
Description
This border is made in the Point d’Angleterre technique combining bobbin and needle lace. The details in the intricate floral pattern indicate highly skilled designer and lace makers. The lily flower motifs embellishing the outer edge are made with alternating bobbin lace and needle lace with centers of bobbin made veined leaves and needle made centers. The ground, also called reseau, is made in the point de gaze style needle lace with tiny rings. This late 19th century cotton lace is of very good quality. A machine made entre-deux is added.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
19th C
1870-1895
Associated Date
1870-1895
Associated Name
Pinchot, Mary Eno
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.L6458
catalog number
L6458
accession number
48717
This example of Mechlin bobbin lace depicts a whimsical variant of the Gallic rooster, symbol of France. The motif was made by Belgian lace makers during World War I and was likely intended to be inserted into a larger item.Currently not on view
Description
This example of Mechlin bobbin lace depicts a whimsical variant of the Gallic rooster, symbol of France. The motif was made by Belgian lace makers during World War I and was likely intended to be inserted into a larger item.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1914-1918
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T16115F
catalog number
T16115F
accession number
297965
Floral motifs in the Valenciennes square mesh bobbin lace technique were used for this cotton lace border. The repeated pattern is four and three-eight inches long, and the ends are unfinished. The pattern is the same as in TE*T14225B, except for the scalloped edge.
Description
Floral motifs in the Valenciennes square mesh bobbin lace technique were used for this cotton lace border. The repeated pattern is four and three-eight inches long, and the ends are unfinished. The pattern is the same as in TE*T14225B, except for the scalloped edge. It was identified by the donor as lace made by Belgian lace makers during World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1914-1918
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T14225A
catalog number
T14225A
accession number
273245
This border has motifs of women, men, windmills, and trees. Below the figures is the Flemish saying “MYN VADERLAND IS MYN DUURBAARSTE PAND” (My homeland is my most cherished possession) worked into the lace.
Description
This border has motifs of women, men, windmills, and trees. Below the figures is the Flemish saying “MYN VADERLAND IS MYN DUURBAARSTE PAND” (My homeland is my most cherished possession) worked into the lace. This Lille type bobbin lace features a nine-inch long pattern repeat and a picot edge. It was designed for the Dutch market for edging their bonnets. Both ends are finished with a narrow Mechlin bobbin lace border with floral motifs outlined with gimp. The lace was made by Belgian lace makers during World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1914-1918
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T14227
catalog number
T14227
accession number
273245
Part of a set of six, this Valenciennes bobbin lace medallion depicts the municipal shield of Ruysselede (Ruiselede) in the Belgian province of West Flanders.
Description
Part of a set of six, this Valenciennes bobbin lace medallion depicts the municipal shield of Ruysselede (Ruiselede) in the Belgian province of West Flanders. Other medallions, two with the American eagle, two with the Belgian lion coat-of-arms, and another with the municipal shield of Ruysselede complete the set. See a similar motif in TE*E383967. Belgian lace makers made these laces during World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1916-1918
made during
1914-1918
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T14222D
catalog number
T14222.00D
accession number
273245
This table runner has a central inscription of “VLAANDEREN IN DEN KRYG – HULDE VAN ARDOYE – 1915” (Flanders in War – Tribute from Ardoye). Nine embroidered Belgian province shields and the 1915 municipal shield for Ardoye decorate the border.
Description
This table runner has a central inscription of “VLAANDEREN IN DEN KRYG – HULDE VAN ARDOYE – 1915” (Flanders in War – Tribute from Ardoye). Nine embroidered Belgian province shields and the 1915 municipal shield for Ardoye decorate the border. The German Army used poisoned gas for the first time on the western front in 1915 by Ardoye near Ypres, West Flanders, Belgium.
The linen fabric of the table runner is embroidered in satin stitch and French knots with cotton. The floral border surrounding the shields is rendered in the Bruges flower lace technique and braided mesh. Lace and embroidery was made by Belgian women during World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1915-1918
part of design
1915
facilitator
Hoover, Herbert
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.E383961
catalog number
E383961
accession number
172208
This needle lace table mat commemorates the coronation of King George V in 1911. The four women represent Fortitude, Wisdom, Justice, and Peace, represented by the lance, helmet, sword, and shield.
Description
This needle lace table mat commemorates the coronation of King George V in 1911. The four women represent Fortitude, Wisdom, Justice, and Peace, represented by the lance, helmet, sword, and shield. The artist was Bernard Partridge, who published the cartoon in Punch Magazine in 1911. The shields of England, Scotland, Ireland, and Wales are inserted in the corners of the mat. The center and the shields are made in the Point de Gaze technique. This beautiful needle lace was probably made by Belgian lace makers during World War I in gratitude for British help.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1914-1918
depicted (sitter)
George V King of the United Kingdom
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T13776
catalog number
T13776
accession number
264477
This fingerless mitt, one of a pair, is handmade of white cotton in Chantilly style bobbin lace with floral motifs. A ribbon is added along the top edge. The back of the mitt is fastened with a small button.
Description
This fingerless mitt, one of a pair, is handmade of white cotton in Chantilly style bobbin lace with floral motifs. A ribbon is added along the top edge. The back of the mitt is fastened with a small button. The mitt matches TE*T14221A and was identified by the donor as lace made by Belgian lace makers during World War I
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1914-1919
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T14221B
catalog number
T14221B
accession number
273245
This is classical Italian Cantù bobbin lace from about 1900. It is of fine quality made particularly to sell abroad. Originally apparently four placemats and two long runners, it does not have a sewing edge where the pieces are attached.
Description
This is classical Italian Cantù bobbin lace from about 1900. It is of fine quality made particularly to sell abroad. Originally apparently four placemats and two long runners, it does not have a sewing edge where the pieces are attached. It has two-dimensional animal and flower motifs made in finer thread than the rest of the lace. Animal figures are made first, starting at the outer points and working to the center. This provides neater points as well as the additional threads needed for the larger areas. It also aids in more appropriately and neatly attaching the trails.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1900
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T12044
catalog number
T12044
accession number
202257
A peacock motif is the focus of this border in Point de Paris bobbin lace. It was probably made in Courtrai (Kortrijk), Belgium by Belgian lace makers during World War I.Currently not on view
Description
A peacock motif is the focus of this border in Point de Paris bobbin lace. It was probably made in Courtrai (Kortrijk), Belgium by Belgian lace makers during World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1914-1918
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T14569
catalog number
T14569
accession number
278083
This cotton lace border with floral motifs was made using the Valenciennes square mesh bobbin lace technique. The repeated pattern is four and three-eight inches long, and the ends are unfinished. The pattern is the same as in TE*T14225A, but with a straight edge.
Description
This cotton lace border with floral motifs was made using the Valenciennes square mesh bobbin lace technique. The repeated pattern is four and three-eight inches long, and the ends are unfinished. The pattern is the same as in TE*T14225A, but with a straight edge. It was identified by the donor as lace made by Belgian lace makers during World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1914-1918
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T14225B
catalog number
T14225B
accession number
273245
Part of a set of six, this Valenciennes bobbin lace medallion features the coat-of-arms of Belgium. Other medallions, two with the American eagle, another with the Belgian lion coat-of-arms, and two with the municipal shield of Ruysselede (Ruiselede) complete the set.
Description
Part of a set of six, this Valenciennes bobbin lace medallion features the coat-of-arms of Belgium. Other medallions, two with the American eagle, another with the Belgian lion coat-of-arms, and two with the municipal shield of Ruysselede (Ruiselede) complete the set. See a similar motif in TE*E383967. Belgian lace makers made these laces during World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1916-1918
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T14222E
catalog number
T14222E
accession number
273245
This panel was specifically designed to express appreciation to the Americans for their help during World War I. The entire panel was executed in fine Valenciennes style bobbin lace by Belgian lace makers.
Description
This panel was specifically designed to express appreciation to the Americans for their help during World War I. The entire panel was executed in fine Valenciennes style bobbin lace by Belgian lace makers. The American Eagle in the center is flanked by the coats-of-arms of Belgium and the municipality of Ruysselede (Ruiselede) in West Flanders. The inscription “AAN DE VEREENIGDE STATEN” (to the United States) is worked into the lace in the top border. “1914 HULDE EN DANK 1915” (1914 honor and thank you 1915) enhances the bottom border. The side borders contain the words “BELGIE” and “RUYSSELEDE” surrounded by floral designs.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1915-1916
part of design
1915
1914
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.E383967
catalog number
E383967
accession number
172208
This tatted lace collar is formed of 76 joined tatted medallions, each one inch in diameter, and is executed with two-ply cotton. Tatting is a knotting technique using one or two tatting shuttles to form rings and chains. The motifs are joined at the small loops called picots.
Description
This tatted lace collar is formed of 76 joined tatted medallions, each one inch in diameter, and is executed with two-ply cotton. Tatting is a knotting technique using one or two tatting shuttles to form rings and chains. The motifs are joined at the small loops called picots. According to the donor this was tatted before the Civil War.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1850-1861
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T08132A
catalog number
T08132A
accession number
145752
This needle lace cuff has all the characteristics of Irish Youghal lace: no raised cordonnet, semi-naturalistic flowers, the buttonholed loops often with scallops of additional buttonhole stitches surrounding the motifs and outer edge of the lace, a variety of filling stitches, a
Description
This needle lace cuff has all the characteristics of Irish Youghal lace: no raised cordonnet, semi-naturalistic flowers, the buttonholed loops often with scallops of additional buttonhole stitches surrounding the motifs and outer edge of the lace, a variety of filling stitches, and particularly the mesh ground of irregular bars decorated with picots. This example is of medium quality.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1850-1900
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.L7610
catalog number
L7610
accession number
unknown
This square table cover has shields of the nine Belgian provinces in the center and a border of animals representing four of the initial Allied powers: Bear (Russia), Lion (Belgium), Rooster (France), and Unicorn (Great Britain).
Description
This square table cover has shields of the nine Belgian provinces in the center and a border of animals representing four of the initial Allied powers: Bear (Russia), Lion (Belgium), Rooster (France), and Unicorn (Great Britain). The motifs were executed in Point de Paris bobbin lace and pulled thread embroidery by Belgian lace makers during World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1914-1919
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.E383965
catalog number
E383965
accession number
172208

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