Textiles

The 50,000 objects in the textile collections fall into two main categories: raw fibers, yarns, and fabrics, and machines, tools, and other textile technology. Shawls, coverlets, samplers, laces, linens, synthetics, and other fabrics are part of the first group, along with the 400 quilts in the National Quilt Collection. Some of the Museum's most popular artifacts, such as the Star-Spangled Banner and the gowns of the first ladies, have an obvious textile connection.

The machinery and tools include spinning wheels, sewing machines, thimbles, needlework tools, looms, and an invention that changed the course of American agriculture and society. A model of Eli Whitney's cotton gin, made by the inventor in the early 1800s, shows the workings of a machine that helped make cotton plantations profitable in the South and encouraged the spread of slavery.

Henry Oberly (1805-1874) likely wove this blue and red, Figured and Fancy, tied-Beiderwand coverlet for Anna Nancy King Zook (1784-1840) in Berks County, Pennsylvania sometime between 1835 and 1840.
Description
Henry Oberly (1805-1874) likely wove this blue and red, Figured and Fancy, tied-Beiderwand coverlet for Anna Nancy King Zook (1784-1840) in Berks County, Pennsylvania sometime between 1835 and 1840. The coverlet features a “Double Rose” carpet medallion centerfield where the motif is contained in large sunburst designs. There are borders along three sides. The side borders depict large adorsed peacocks on branches, and the bottom border depicts a town scene. Rather than traditional cornerblocks, the weaver has turned the bottom border pattern and included the client’s name, “Anna Zook” along the top. The coverlet was constructed from two panels that were woven as one length, cut, and seamed up the middle. The coverlet measures 94 inches by 80.5 inches. There is fringe on 3 sides of the coverlet. Motifs from this coverlet can also be found on coverlets woven by Henry Oberly (1805-1874), and Jacob Witmer (c.1797 - c.1887) of Lancaster Co. PA. Anna Zook’s location in Berks County as well as Oberly’s use of the same peacock and centerfield motifs, suggest that Oberly is the weaver of the this coverlet.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1840s-1850s
1835-1840
maker
unknown
ID Number
1984.0170.06
accession number
1984.0170
catalog number
1984.0170.06
This is a blue and white, plain weave double coverlet executed in geometric block weave pattern. The pattern is most commonly known as “Whig Rose.” There is a "Pine Tree" border along three sides created from a fractional reduction and lengthening of the main pattern.
Description
This is a blue and white, plain weave double coverlet executed in geometric block weave pattern. The pattern is most commonly known as “Whig Rose.” There is a "Pine Tree" border along three sides created from a fractional reduction and lengthening of the main pattern. The weaver used natural colored linen with olive green and indigo (blue) colored wool. The coverlet measures 82 inches by 79 inches. The coverlet is constructed of two panels each 34.5 inches wide. The weaver would have woven both panels as one length, cut that length in half, and sewn the panels together to create the finished width. There is a five inch long woven fringe with a half inch heading applied to the sides of coverlet, and there is a five inch self-fringe along the lower edge. The coverlet was initially purchased in Huntington Valley, Pennsylvania and it is likely that it was woven in Pennsylvania sometime during the first half of the nineteenth century.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1790-1815
late 18th century
early 19th century
1800-1850
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T18271
catalog number
T18271.000
accession number
1977.0107
Andrew Corick signed this Jacquard, tied-Biederwand coverlet.
Description
Andrew Corick signed this Jacquard, tied-Biederwand coverlet. The centerfield pattern is the “Double Lillies” or “Lillies of France” pattern and the borders are the “Bird and Rosebush” pattern which features traditional Germanic folk motif of the confronted distelfinken (thistle finches). Corrick used horizontal color banding in blue, white, coral and green with self-fringe on three sides. . The woven inscription in the cornerblocks reads, "MIDDLETOWN FREDERICK COUNTY MARYLAND ANDREW CORICK'". The coverlet was woven in two panels each 38 inches wide. This exact coverlet design can be found replicated in Pennsylvania, Maryland (by other weavers), Ohio, Indiana, West Virginia (Western Virginia at the time), and New York. The earliest known coverlet with this pattern was woven in 1830 in New York. The accession file referred to these patterns as "Lillies and Stars" and the border as "Eagle and Rose Tree." The coverlet was handwoven in a 2-end warp rib of 3-ply, S-twist, Z-spun bleached cotton and alternatively with a single end of 3-ply, S-twist, Z-spun indigo-dyed cotton. The coverlet was purchased from Andrew Corrick directly by the donor's ancestors, Jonathan Recher Sottlemyer (1820-1896) and Susan Blickenstaff Stottlemyer (1823-1893). The couple was married in 1842. This is likely the time period when the couple would have acquired the coverlet.
Andrew Corick (Corrick, Coriock) (1791-1863) was a German immigrant who settled in Middletown, Frederick Co., Maryland and began weaving and farming. His coverlets are never dated, but we can speculate that he was active during the 1830s-1840s. The 1850 Maryland Census recorded Andrew Corrick as a 59-year-old farmer with land valued at $4000. The 1860 Federal Census listed Corrick’s occupation as farmer and valued his land holdings at $2000 and his personal property at $900, suggesting his son had taken over the family weaving business and perhaps part of the farm. His son, Joshua Corrick (b. 1820) was also a weaver in Middletown, weaving in a similar style, who signed his work in the cornerblocks.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1840
date made
1840s
1830-1850
1830-1845
weaver
Corick, Andrew
ID Number
TE.T8952
catalog number
T08952.000
accession number
167647
The donor collected this black, red, and white, overshot coverlet in 1908 in Fayetteville, Alabama from an elderly woman who claimed to have prepared the wool and woven it in the mid-1850s.
Description
The donor collected this black, red, and white, overshot coverlet in 1908 in Fayetteville, Alabama from an elderly woman who claimed to have prepared the wool and woven it in the mid-1850s. The pattern is known as “Pine Blossom.” The coverlet measures 98 inches by 90.5 inches and is made of three lengths of fabric, that are seamed together. The red dye used in the coverlet is likely pokeberry.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
Mid-1850s?
date made
c. 1855
ID Number
TE.T8432
catalog number
T08432.000
accession number
157596
This overshot, indigo and white coverlet (now separated into two panels) is woven in the "Catalpa Flower" pattern. Overshot patterning is based on a float weave structure, where a supplementary weft yarn is added to create the pattern.
Description
This overshot, indigo and white coverlet (now separated into two panels) is woven in the "Catalpa Flower" pattern. Overshot patterning is based on a float weave structure, where a supplementary weft yarn is added to create the pattern. The yarn floats or shoots over the top of the plain weave ground cloth creating the pattern. The pattern is a reversible negative, meaning that the color combination is reversed on the opposite side. Overshot coverlets can be woven on simple four-shaft looms. They are usually associated with domestic production and many of them are attributed to female weavers. Professional male weavers also wove floatwork coverlets. Many overshot patterns have names; however, these names changed and varied due to time and location. According to the donor, this coverlet descended through the Van Meter family of New York and was likely woven in the first half of the nineteenth century by a female ancestor. The two coverlet panels would have been joined with a center seam. These panels were repurposed during the early 20th century Colonial Revival decorating period and used as portieres in the Van Meter home. Each of the two panels measures 75 inches by 35.25 inches.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
19th century
date made
1800-1850
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T14960A
catalog number
T14960.00S
T14960.A-S
accession number
286274
catalog number
T14960-B/S
This Figured and Fancy, tied-Beiderwand coverlet panel reveals when, where, and who made it, but William Wolf has remained elusive to historians.
Description
This Figured and Fancy, tied-Beiderwand coverlet panel reveals when, where, and who made it, but William Wolf has remained elusive to historians. The centerfield features octagonal carpet medallions filled with stylized sunflowers or sunbursts around which can be found geometric stars arrangements and foliate garlands. The side border features a meandering grape vine and the lower border depicts a swag garland and flower motif. The cornerblock inscription reads, “WOVE*BY/*W*WOLF/*SHELBY*/RICHLAND/*COUNTY*/OHIO*1853.” There are dozens of people names William Wolf recorded in Ohio in the 1850 Federal Census, and more research is needed to determine which of those men was the weaver of this coverlet panel. What is known of Wolf comes from his extant coverlets which date from 1836-1858 and have woven inscriptions indicating that he was weaving in Hanover, Licking County, Ohio and later in Shelby, Richland County, Ohio. This coverlet panel was woven in tied-Beiderwand structure using 2-ply, S-twist, Z-spun cotton and wool, warp and weft yarns and Z-spun cotton singles for binding warps.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1853
maker
Shelby, W. Wolf
ID Number
TE.T13141
catalog number
T13141.000
accession number
249565
Ira Hadsell (b. 1813) of Palmyra, New York wove this red and white, Figured and Fancy, double cloth coverlet for Catharine M. Wilson in 1859.
Description
Ira Hadsell (b. 1813) of Palmyra, New York wove this red and white, Figured and Fancy, double cloth coverlet for Catharine M. Wilson in 1859. The coverlet design is symmetrical along the center seam and feature a large compote overflowing with flowers and accent by more botanical designs, birds, and cornucopias. There are borders on all four sides featuring swag garland designs. The warps and wefts are made up of red, S-spin wool singles and white 3-ply cotton yarns. The date"1859" appears woven under each of the cornucopias. "Catherine M. Wilson woven at Palmyra NY by Ira Hadsell" is woven along the bottom border. The coverlet measures 86 inches by 78.75 inches. Ira Hadsell was born March 16, 1813, in Marion, New York. He was the son of Sarah Hadsell and William Cogswell. Ira Hadsell led an interesting, if somewhat difficult life. He was "bound out" to A.R. Galloway and apprenticed as a canal worker at the age of eight. From age 14 through 26, Ira worked at various jobs on the Erie Canal until returning to Palmyra in 1839. Eventually, Ira went to work for James Van Ness, another well-known weaver of Wayne County. Ira Hadsell had finally found his calling. During his lifetime, Hadsell wove over 1,180 coverlets. Ira married Lydia Dansits Scudder (1810-1879) April 9, 1840. On December 30, 1879, he married Laura Jane Ingram (1855 - 1945). He died July 17, 1896. The coverlet was made for Catharine M. Wilson. She was the wife of Daniel P. Wilson and was born c. 1819 in New York. Wilson was the great-grandmother of the donor.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1859
weaver
Hadsell, Ira
ID Number
1986.0880.01
accession number
1986.0880
catalog number
1986.0880.01
This blue and white double-woven coverlet features a "Snowball Tree" central field motif, with wavy line borders on three sides. It was woven with cotton and wool yarns, and has a fringe on all four sides.
Description
This blue and white double-woven coverlet features a "Snowball Tree" central field motif, with wavy line borders on three sides. It was woven with cotton and wool yarns, and has a fringe on all four sides. The lower edge has a self-fringe, while the sides have tape fringes that travel to the top edge and run along that edge for twenty-two inches. This coverlet was woven in two sections that were sewn together on each side. According to the donor, the yarn was spun and the coverlet was woven in the home of her great-grandmother (no name given.) The coverlet dates from the first half of the 19th century. Double-woven coverlets are reversible, with the dark color dominant on one side, and the light color dominante on the other. Such coverlets are complicated to weave and require two separate sets of warp and filling yarns.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1800-1850
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.H12765
catalog number
H012765.000
accession number
053657
53657
This blue and white, Summer-and-Winter weave coverlet was woven from a warp of 2-ply, S-twist, Z-spun cotton, a ground weft of single ply Z-spun cotton, and a supplementary pattern weft of 2-ply, S-twist, Z-spun wool.
Description
This blue and white, Summer-and-Winter weave coverlet was woven from a warp of 2-ply, S-twist, Z-spun cotton, a ground weft of single ply Z-spun cotton, and a supplementary pattern weft of 2-ply, S-twist, Z-spun wool. The coverlet is constructed of two 35.5 inch widths that were woven as one length, cut, and seamed together to create the finished width. The pattern is a square variation of the “Whig Rose” pattern. There is fringe is along three sides. It appears the fringe was two inches long when new but has worn away over time. There are badly worn spots along the top and bottom edges and the center seam. The side fringe is detached and ragged in a few places. The condition of the coverlet overall is fair. According to the donors, this coverlet was woven in the first half of the nineteenth century in Cambridge, New York. The coverlet measures 92 inches by 66.5 inches.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1800-1850
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T16959
catalog number
T16959.000
accession number
309644
This Jacquard tied-Beiderwand coverlet features a “Double Rose and Starbust” centerfield pattern with small borders on all four sides composed of addorsed birds and floral motifs. The blue warp yarns are cotton, the filing yarns are green, olive, red and dark blue wool.
Description
This Jacquard tied-Beiderwand coverlet features a “Double Rose and Starbust” centerfield pattern with small borders on all four sides composed of addorsed birds and floral motifs. The blue warp yarns are cotton, the filing yarns are green, olive, red and dark blue wool. The color scheme of this coverlet is atypical, as it does not include white. The coverlet measures 92x80 inches. The pattern repeat unit is 15 1/4x14 inches. The horizontal color banding was woven in three-inch-wide wide. There is a self-fringe on three sides. On two sides it is 2 ½ inches deep on the lower edge it is 4 inches deep. This coverlet is unsigned, undated, and came to the NMAH collections as the gift of a coverlet collector with no other information pertaining to the provenance. Based on the style and colors, it is likely from Pennsylvania or Ohio. The lack of signing or dating may indicate factory production. The style of the coverlet would date it to approximately 1835-1850.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1840's
date made
1835-1850
ID Number
TE.T18212
catalog number
T18212.000
accession number
1977.0101
This red, white, & blue double-cloth coverlet features a centerfield design of alternating horizontal rows of buildings.
Description
This red, white, & blue double-cloth coverlet features a centerfield design of alternating horizontal rows of buildings. One row depicts a church with large steeple flanked on either side by taverns or inns, and the other row depicts pagoda and Chinoiserie-inspired houses and palm trees. Early 20th century coverlet scholarship has tended to refer to this combination of Western and Eastern architecture, “Christians and Heathens.” This patterns is also almost always found in the border rather than the centerfield. The four borders of this coverlet feature s double row of meandering grape vines. The corner blocks are quartered and display an enlarged grape leaf motif similar to those found in the border designs. The weaver of this coverlet has yet to be identified, but current scholarship points to an Ohio origin and a date of between the years, 1840-1850. The Colonial Coverlet Guild of America and the Iroquois County Historical Society Museum of Wateska, Illinois both possess identical coverlets in their collections. This coverlet is in poor shape. There is a significant amount of loss along the upper edge which is suggestive of heavy use through the years. There is also evidence of self-fringe along three sides, most of which has worn away. This coverlet measures 81 inches by 72.5 inches.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1850's
date made
1840-1850
ID Number
TE.T14700
catalog number
T14700.000
accession number
280849
Jacob Biesecker Jr. (1810-1865) of Franklin Township, Adams County, Pennsylvania wove this Figured and Fancy, red, white, and blue, tied-Beiderwand coverlet in 1852. The coverlet has self-fringe along three sides.
Description
Jacob Biesecker Jr. (1810-1865) of Franklin Township, Adams County, Pennsylvania wove this Figured and Fancy, red, white, and blue, tied-Beiderwand coverlet in 1852. The coverlet has self-fringe along three sides. The centerfield design is a carpet medallion design featuring “Double Thistle,” “Double Leaf,” and eight-point star floral medallions. There is a double border along three sides made up of an “Eagle and Tree” inner border and a diamond and eight-pointed star outer border. The corner block inscription reads, “J. Biesecker Jr. New Invention Franklin T. Ad. Co. 1852.” This coverlet measures 90 inches by 76 inches and was constructed from two panels initially woven as one length on the loom. In the 1850 Federal Census, Jacob is recorded as a weaver living in the household of his father, Jacob, a farmer with real estate valued at $3000. Jacob’s advertisement of “New Invention” on his coverlets also tells that he had purchased a licensing agreement for a patented loom or patterning mechanism. By the 1850s, it was almost certainly a Jacquard head. Jacob Jr.’s pattern book survives in the family and his probate inventory recorded three looms and their fixtures plus two varieties of carpet valued at different rates. It is presumable that Biesecker was employing and training other fancy weavers and operating a small manufactory from his family farm in Adams County. Many of these farm/manufactories also operated mills. More research is needed to fully understand the economic activities of the Biesecker family.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1852
weaver
Biesecker, Jacob
ID Number
TE.T16961
catalog number
T16962.000
accession number
308475.3
The pattern used in this coverlet is known as “Washington Beauty,” and can be found in Heirlooms from Old Looms , p.151, published in 1955. The coverlet has "Pine Tree" borders on three sides, and a self fringe at the lower edge.
Description
The pattern used in this coverlet is known as “Washington Beauty,” and can be found in Heirlooms from Old Looms , p.151, published in 1955. The coverlet has "Pine Tree" borders on three sides, and a self fringe at the lower edge. The overall design features “Snowballs.” The coverlet is made of cotton and wool, and was probably woven in the first half of the 19th century. The name of the weaver is unknown. The complex design found in this coverlet is made entirely with squares and rectangles. Coverlet weavers kept “drafts” of the various designs they used, and sometimes sold them to each other.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1800-1850
ID Number
TE.T15486
catalog number
T15486.000
accession number
294051
This blue and white, overshot coverlet was woven in a simplified version of the “Orange Peel” pattern. The two-paneled coverlet measures ninety-four inches in length by seventy-two inches wide.
Description
This blue and white, overshot coverlet was woven in a simplified version of the “Orange Peel” pattern. The two-paneled coverlet measures ninety-four inches in length by seventy-two inches wide. The plain weave ground cloth is made up of natural or unbleached linen or cotton warp and weft yarn and the supplementary pattern weft is a 2-ply wool yarn. There is some staining and slight discoloration, but overall this coverlet is in fairly good condition. Because the donor collected this coverlet from and unknown sources, the date and maker of this blue and white, cotton and wool, overshot coverlet is unknown. The coverlet was probably made between 1790 and 1825 and could possibly be from New York. The weaver of this early coverlet would also likely have been a woman or group of women who would pool equipment and skill sets to produce domestic goods for themselves and their neighbors. Since this coverlet dates from the early 19th century, it is quite likely that some or even all of the yarns used were homespun. Professional weavers switched to machine-spun cotton as soon as it was available, but hand-spun wool continued in use in coverlets in the early 19th century.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1800-1850
1800-1900
1790-1825
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T6887
catalog number
T06887.000
accession number
011503
This blue and white, Figured and Fancy double-cloth Craig family medallion coverlet features a carpet centerfield with bell flower border along the top and bottom and willow and floral side borders.
Description
This blue and white, Figured and Fancy double-cloth Craig family medallion coverlet features a carpet centerfield with bell flower border along the top and bottom and willow and floral side borders. Dated 1852, the building with cupola cornerblock helps identify this coverlet as a product of the Craig Family of Decatur County, Indiana. This coverlet shows a lot of wear and is badly damaged along the top and bottom borders.
The Craig Family weavers consist of Scottish-born, William Craig, Sr. (1800-1880), Scottish-born cousin, James Craig (1819-1896), William Craig, Jr. (1824-1880), and James Craig (1823-1889) make up the two generations of weavers who intermarried with other Scottish immigrant weaving families, dominating the coverlet market in Floyd, Decatur, and Washington counties in Indiana. It is almost certain that their regional influence extended into Western Kentucky as well. The Craigs were prodigious weavers and entrepreneurs and the number of extant coverlets attest to this fact. Also of interest is a published interview with William Sr.'s granddaughter, Rena Craig Gilchrist found in Indiana Coverlets and Coverlet Weavers (1928) by Kate Milner Rabb. Rena Craig Gilchrist recounted how her grandfather was born in Kilmarnock, Scotland in 1800, moving to South Carolina in 1820 to assume the role of foreman at a Southern cotton goods factory. In 1832 the Craigs and other immigrant weaving families, the Gilchrists and Youngs moved to Mt. Caramel, Indiana. In 1838, the family moved again, further distributing weavers, to Decatur County, Indiana. The Craigs at first wove on their farm just outside of Greensburg, Indiana, but soon sons William Jr. and James ventured out on their own, marrying other weaver’s daughters, and establishing workshops in Greensburg and Anderson. Their coverlet weaving became regionally famous and people were reported as having come from fifty to sixty miles by wagon with woolen yarn for enough coverlets for each child at marriage.
The Craigs continued to weave until 1860 when William Sr. retired. Cousin James opened a shop in Canton, Indiana. A local resident described his loom as," “different from any other loom I have ever seen in that the threads of the warp were each run through a loop of cords to which were attached leaden weights about the size of an ordinary lead pencil, and I should think from twelve to fifteen inches in length. I do not remember accurately about that. The other end of each cord was attached to a pedal, of which there was a considerable number. A number of cords may have been attached to a pedal, according to the colors and figures being used. This enabled him to depress any of the threads of the warp that he pleased by operating the pedals with his feet, thus opening a space for the passing of the shuttle, of which he used as many as he wished colors in the pattern.” This description suggests that members of the Craig family were using modified drawlooms, possibly what is sometimes referred to a Scotch loom, which was used to weave figured double-cloth ingrain carpet. This is interesting because the introduction of the Jacquard head attachment, which used chains of punch cards, made figured weaving much faster and cheaper in the decades before the Craig family’s foray into coverlet weaving.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1852
maker
Craig Family
ID Number
TE.T12056
catalog number
T12056.000
accession number
228755
This is an example of a warp-faced twill weave, geometric coverlet woven in a “Whig Rose” pattern with compound “Pine Tree” borders. The borders on these geometric coverlets is created through a fractional reduction of the main motif.
Description
This is an example of a warp-faced twill weave, geometric coverlet woven in a “Whig Rose” pattern with compound “Pine Tree” borders. The borders on these geometric coverlets is created through a fractional reduction of the main motif. The coverlet is composed of two sections, each 38 inches wide. The coverlet was woven as one length, cut, and seamed up the middle to create a coverlet that measures 85 inches by 76 inches. There is self-fringe along three sides.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1800-1850
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T8954
catalog number
T08954.000
accession number
164228
Linen damask napkin; U.S. Eagle & "We Offer Peace; Ready for War", early 19th century. 29 1/2" square. Known to have been owned by Ann Bourne Osborn Avery, married 1867. Possibly also owned by her mother, Sybil Avery Perkins.
Description
Linen damask napkin; U.S. Eagle & "We Offer Peace; Ready for War", early 19th century. 29 1/2" square. Known to have been owned by Ann Bourne Osborn Avery, married 1867. Possibly also owned by her mother, Sybil Avery Perkins. Central medallion of American eagle with shield body, wings outstretched, facing right side, clutching arrows in one claw and laurel in the other. Suprscription in a banner: E Pluribus Unum; Inscribed underneath, We Offer peace / Ready for War. Wreath surround. Wide border of flowers and grape and leaves, corner blocks; narrow outer border of twining ribbons. Possibly woven in Ireland or in Great Britain for the American market. Several linen damask napkins and tablecloths with similar motifs are known.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1800-1850
ID Number
TE.T11151
catalog number
T11151
T.11151
accession number
203588
An unknown weaver created this blue and white, Figured and Fancy, double cloth coverlet circa 1850. The coverlet was purchased in West Virginia but could have been woven in Ohio and traded down the Ohio River.
Description
An unknown weaver created this blue and white, Figured and Fancy, double cloth coverlet circa 1850. The coverlet was purchased in West Virginia but could have been woven in Ohio and traded down the Ohio River. Weavers tended to establish their operations near navigable waterways for both transportation of goods, use of water power, and proximity to carding mills operating on water power. The centerfield design is an elaborate carpet medallion patter composed of highly stylized floral medallions, peacock feathers, and coral-like designs usually associated with Scots-Irish weavers. The blue and white double cloth structure is also indicative of a Scots-Irish weaver. The three-sided border features floral designs with eagles in the style of Pennsylvania weaver, Henry Oberly. There are cornerblocks in the two lower corners which hold the clue to identifying the weaver. The trademark appears to be a sunflower with dots in the four corners. There is self-fringe along three sides. The coverlet is constructed of two panels which were woven as one length, cut, and seamed to create the finished width. The coverlet measures 92 inches by 84 inches. There were known coverlet manufactories in Northern West Virginia, particularly in the Wheeling and Jefferson County areas.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
ca. 1850
maker
Schum, Philip
ID Number
TE.T13603
catalog number
T13603.000
accession number
259499
This is an overshot coverlet from mid nineteenth century, which features a patch pattern in the center. There are borders on three sides of the coverlet, formed by a fractional reduction of the central patch design.
Description
This is an overshot coverlet from mid nineteenth century, which features a patch pattern in the center. There are borders on three sides of the coverlet, formed by a fractional reduction of the central patch design. The wool yarns appear to be hand spun and dyed using plant-based dyes. The weaver used yellow along with dark and light brown yarns along with a coral colored yarn. The coral yarn may have been a different color when the coverlet was new and faded over time due to use, light, and age. There is a seam down the middle sewn with cotton thread. This coverlet was made in Maryland, possibly Street, Maryland and was woven by an unknown family member for the donor's grandfather, Samuel Sedgwick Scarborough (March 22, 1836-March 4, 1903). The coverlet passed to his son, the donor’s father. The Scarborough family came to Pennsylvania with William Penn and fought in the Revolutionary War. This coverlet is believed to have been woven by a member of the family as a loom was also passed down through the generations. The donor recalled her aunt making rugs on the old loom, which has since disappeared. The coverlet is in excellent condition and measures 94 inches by 80.5 inches. Overshot; Unusual colors, gold, brown, orange (may have been red).
Location
Currently not on view
date made
19th century
c. 1840-1850
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T15800
catalog number
T15800.000
accession number
297386
An unidentified weaver wove this blue and white, Figured and Fancy, double cloth coverlet. The centerfield design features oak leaf and flower, sprig and floral, foliate swag, and leaf carpet medallions. All four of the borders depict the No.
Description
An unidentified weaver wove this blue and white, Figured and Fancy, double cloth coverlet. The centerfield design features oak leaf and flower, sprig and floral, foliate swag, and leaf carpet medallions. All four of the borders depict the No. 240 engine and coal car being operated by the engineer. The cornerblocks depict four profile portraits of M. T. McKennon, the first president of the railroad. He is surrounded by the woven inscription, “Hemfield Railroad.” The Hempfield Railroad was began in 1851 and designed to connect Wheeling, Virginia (current West Virginia) to Washington, Pennsylvania. Construction was not complete until 1857 and the railroad operated until 1871 when it was sold to the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad. It is not clear if these coverlets were used on the passenger cars or sold to subscribers. The railroad was initially funded through subscription, and it is possible that these coverlets were made to help facilitate that process or just to commemorate the arrival of the railroad. The coverlet was likely made c. 1851 either in Wheeling or Western Pennsylvania. The railroad operated three locomotive engines, six freight and passenger cars, and eleven coal cars.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1851
c. 1851
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T7317
catalog number
T07317.000
accession number
123286
Matthew Rattray (1796-1872) woven is blue and white, Jacquard, double cloth coverlet in Richmond, Wayne County, Indiana in 1853. The coverlet measures 93 inches by 77 inches and was constructed from two panels woven as one length, cut, and sewn together in the center.
Description
Matthew Rattray (1796-1872) woven is blue and white, Jacquard, double cloth coverlet in Richmond, Wayne County, Indiana in 1853. The coverlet measures 93 inches by 77 inches and was constructed from two panels woven as one length, cut, and sewn together in the center. There is self-fringe along the bottom edge. The centerfield design is foliate and geometric carpet medallion motif. The side borders show pairs of adorsed birds of paradise perched on branches. The lower border shows pairs of birds feeding their young on oak tree branches. The corner block logo is an eagle with twenty-six stars and the date, 1853. This cornerblock trademark is associated with the coverlet weaver, Matthew Rattray. Rattray was born and trained as a fancy weaver in Paisley, Scotland. Although there has yet to be evidence discovered, it is likely that Rattray first immigrated to America to work for a large industrial mill in New England before moving West to Indiana in the early 1840s. Once in Indiana, Rattray advertised extensively about his New York-made Jacquard machine, his ability to design and replicate patterns, and his proficiency at Figured and Fancy carpets, coverlets, and other fancy goods.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1853
ID Number
TE.T17894
catalog number
T17894.000
accession number
319019
This blue and white, jacquard, double-woven coverlet was woven in two sections, each 37.25 inches wide. The total coverlet measures 97 7/8 inches by 74 ½ inches.
Description
This blue and white, jacquard, double-woven coverlet was woven in two sections, each 37.25 inches wide. The total coverlet measures 97 7/8 inches by 74 ½ inches. The centerfield pattern is composed of stylized dogwood flower medallions interspersed with bellflower-inspired carpet tiles. The side borders feature an meandering vine with irises. The bottom border features a scrolling floral vine associated with the LaTourette family of Fountain City, Indiana. This attribution is further confirmed by the flower in the cornerblock, which is the trademark of the LaTourette family. The appearance of the word "Year" indicates it was woven by Sarah LaTourette, or her brother Henry. John LaTourette. John LaTourette, the family patriarch, was born into a New York/New Jersey, Huguenot weaving family in 1793. He and his wife, Sarah Schenck moved West after their marriage in 1816, moving from Ohio to Fountain County, Indiana in 1828. It is here where John established his weaving business and taught daughter Sarah (b. 1822) and son, Henry (b. 1832) the art of Jacquard weaving. John died in 1848, and his children carried on the family business, weaving their last coverlet in 1871.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1858
referenced
LaTourette, Sarah
maker
LaTourette, Sarah
LaTourette, Henry
ID Number
TE.T2735
catalog number
T02735.000
accession number
058524
This overshot coverlet is constructed of two panels which were woven as one length, cut, and sewn up the center.
Description
This overshot coverlet is constructed of two panels which were woven as one length, cut, and sewn up the center. The pattern is a variation of “Queen’s Fancy.” The weaver used 2-ply, S-twist, Z-spun cotton in the warp and weft to create the plain weave ground and madder-dyed Z-spun wool singles for the supplementary pattern weft. The coverlet was received by the museum as two separate panels. The center seam was often removed to wash coverlets because of their size and their weight when wet. Also, during early Colonial Revival design, overshot coverlets like this one were repurposed as table runners, portieres, and other decorative objects outside of bedcoverings, and it is not uncommon to find them as separate panels. The overall coverlet measures 90 inches by 74 inches. Each panel is 37 inches wide. According to the donor, this particular coverlet descended in the Swigget family and was used as portieres. It is claimed to have been woven in Tennessee in the early nineteenth century.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1800-1850
ID Number
TE.T9998A
catalog number
T09998.00A
accession number
176711
Cynthia Burch Clark (1815-1893) of Dodge County, Georgia wove this dark and medium brown and white, overshot coverlet. The pattern she chose blends features of patterns known as “Pine Blossom” and “Stars and Table.” Cynthia was the wife of Dr. Calphrey Clark.
Description
Cynthia Burch Clark (1815-1893) of Dodge County, Georgia wove this dark and medium brown and white, overshot coverlet. The pattern she chose blends features of patterns known as “Pine Blossom” and “Stars and Table.” Cynthia was the wife of Dr. Calphrey Clark. The couple lived just outside of Chauncey, Georgia. The coverlet passed down to their son, Harlow and then to his son, John Benjamin. John Benjamin’s son, Fred H. Clark is the donor. The ground weft yarns and pattern weft yarns appear to be hand spun. The finer more even warps are glossier and perhaps were machine-spun. Warm medium brown and black brown Z-spun wool singles were used for the pattern weft. The coverlet is made up of three sections woven as one length, cut, and sewn together. The seams are sewn with 2-ply cotton yarn. The coverlet measures 85 inches by 78 inches.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
mid 19th century
19th century
c. 1825-1850
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T14925
catalog number
T14925.000
accession number
285047

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