Textiles

The 50,000 objects in the textile collections fall into two main categories: raw fibers, yarns, and fabrics, and machines, tools, and other textile technology. Shawls, coverlets, samplers, laces, linens, synthetics, and other fabrics are part of the first group, along with the 400 quilts in the National Quilt Collection. Some of the Museum's most popular artifacts, such as the Star-Spangled Banner and the gowns of the first ladies, have an obvious textile connection.

The machinery and tools include spinning wheels, sewing machines, thimbles, needlework tools, looms, and an invention that changed the course of American agriculture and society. A model of Eli Whitney's cotton gin, made by the inventor in the early 1800s, shows the workings of a machine that helped make cotton plantations profitable in the South and encouraged the spread of slavery.

Men's fashion went through a revolutionary change during the last half of the eighteenth century, as clothing steadily shrank from a curvaceous, full-skirted style into a slender, vertical silhouette.
Description
Men's fashion went through a revolutionary change during the last half of the eighteenth century, as clothing steadily shrank from a curvaceous, full-skirted style into a slender, vertical silhouette. The waistcoat was a vest-like garment that a man wore, along with his breeches, over his shirt and under his suit coat. This particular waistcoat dates from the second quarter of the century and represents men’s clothing before it had begun to evolve.
The unidentified gentleman from Maine who wore this garment sometime around 1740 would have probably purchased it as a flat textile for his tailor to cut and fit to his measurements. When it was finished, he must have presented an impressive figure. His waistcoat, with its squared fronts and full skirts, would have draped over his torso and swirled around his upper thighs. Wide pocket flaps protruded over his hips, held out by three otherwise useless buttons beneath them. Moreover, the pattern of the silk fabric made his waistcoat appear even more massive. The design, which was woven just for this purpose, featured a huge floral pattern around the edges of the skirts and fronts that accentuated the expansive scale of the garment.
This waistcoat of brown tone-on-tone warp-patterned silk brocade is woven to form, with a diaper pattern–a small diagonal grid–that covers the ground and a large-scale serpentine leaf and flower design along the straight front base and center front edges. Both pocket flaps are also woven to form, and their lower edges are cut in mirror-imaged S-curves; they are sewn at either side of the center front on each hip. Although the pocket flaps have three decorative vertical buttonholes, the holes were never cut. Three non-functional buttons are sewn under each pocket flap.
Fifteen buttons are sewn along the right center front. Fifteen buttonholes are worked along the left center front, but the lowest four were never cut open and thus can not be buttoned. The upper eleven buttons are domed, with a brown silk diamond embroidered in four sections, surrounded by a small diapered ground. The lower four buttons, and the buttons under the pocket flaps, are mostly flat and covered with brown basket-weave silk.
The back skirts of the waistcoat are of the primary fabric, but the upper back is of plain-weave brown silk. The fronts and back skirt are lined with brown silk twill, and the upper back is lined with napped off-white cotton and linen fustian. The waistcoat is open down the center back from the shoulders to the hem. Three pairs of cotton tape ties originally spanned the slit, but they are now missing. The skirt is vented at the sides from waist to hem. The overall length of the front, measured from the shoulder seam to hem, is 36 in. (91.4 cm).
To see how the clothing of a prosperous man would have been worn, link to the portrait of an Unidentified British Navy Officer, about 1745, by John Wollaston, at the National Gallery of Art, Washington, D.C. The officer wears a waistcoat that is cut much like the brown silk one shown here.
This Web entry was made possible in part by a generous grant from the National Association of Men’s Sportswear Buyers, in memory of Joseph S. Klein.
Date made
1740 - 1760
maker
unknown
ID Number
CS.293501.003
catalog number
293501.003
accession number
293501
Philip H. Anshutz (b. 1802) wove this blue and white, Figured and Fancy, double-cloth coverlet in Carrollton, Carroll County, Ohio sometime after 1845.
Description
Philip H. Anshutz (b. 1802) wove this blue and white, Figured and Fancy, double-cloth coverlet in Carrollton, Carroll County, Ohio sometime after 1845. This coverlet measures 81 inches by 75 inches and was woven as one length, cut into two pieces, and hand sewn together to create the width. There is a self-fringe along three sides of the coverlet. The pattern consists of eight whole, large floral wreaths, with eight half wreaths along the sides. Filling in the spaces between wreaths are two floral groups. The elaborate centerfield pattern suggests that Anshutz was very skilled at pattern design and likely producing coverlets in a semi-industrial fashion. The corners of the lower edge have woven inscriptions which read, "xPxH ANHUTZ YN Carrol-ton.” The white yarns are 2-ply s-twist z-spun cotton, and the blue yarns are 2-ply s-twist z-spun wool. The binding is white 2-ply s-twist z-spun wool. The sewing thread 6-ply s-twist z-spun cotton. The yarn count is 22 warp x 20 weft per inch. The top edge is bound in a bias binding and stitched by hand. Philip Anshutz was born in 1802 in Germany and emigrated to Baltimore about 1833. In the 1840 census he was listed as the head of a household in Baltimore engaged in manufactures and trades—likely in one of Baltimore’s large industrial textile mills. He left Baltimore in 1842 with his wife, whose name we only know as the initial W., and moved to Carrollton, Carroll, Co, Ohio. In the 1850 Federal Census, Anshutz was listed as a weaver. It is likely that Anshutz came to American as a trained, industrial weaver or machinist in a factory, worked in Baltimore long enough to raise the capital needed to move west and attempt to establish his own regional mill in Carroll County. This was a common practice for coverlet weavers.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
mid-19th century
mid-19th century ?
c. 1845
weaver
Anshutz, Philip
ID Number
1989.0270.001
accession number
1989.0270
catalog number
1989.0270.01
Javanese batik sarong or wrapper in yellow and blue. Central field has patterning of multi-patterned stepped diagonal stripes. Traditional Javanese form in traditional Javanese technique.
Description
Javanese batik sarong or wrapper in yellow and blue. Central field has patterning of multi-patterned stepped diagonal stripes. Traditional Javanese form in traditional Javanese technique. Narrow side borders, Kepala with tumpal (opposed elongated triangles) design flanked by floral borders. 83" L x 42" W. One of 22 finished batik textiles, together with 14 process samples, made by prisoners in Java for exhibition at the 1915 Panama-Pacific Exposition in San Francisco. Purchased by the US National Museum for the Division of Textiles from the Netherlands East Indies Commission at the close of the Exposition. The original cataloging identifies the pattern as "Orangoring" and gives the price as 20 F. or $8.00.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1914-1915
ID Number
TE.T02924.000
catalog number
T02924.000
accession number
59191
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
ID Number
1984.0111.171
accession number
1984.0111
Javanese batik reticule (handbag or purse), for the western market; 1915. 26.75" L x 10" W, unfolded. A rectangle with 3 distinct rectangular panels with end borders, Original cataloging identifies the pattern as "Romo" and the price as 5 F. or $2.00.
Description
Javanese batik reticule (handbag or purse), for the western market; 1915. 26.75" L x 10" W, unfolded. A rectangle with 3 distinct rectangular panels with end borders, Original cataloging identifies the pattern as "Romo" and the price as 5 F. or $2.00. Indigo blue and brown on off white. Center rectangle has tumpal motif (opposed triangles), flanked by identical ractangles with scrolling floral designs. Three narrow end borders. meant to be made up as a purse or handbag. Example of the use of traditional Javanese technique and patterning for a form meant for the Euroepan trade. One of 22 finished batik textiles, together with 14 process samples, made by prisoners in Java for exhibition at the 1915 Panama-Pacific Exposition in San Francisco. Purchased by the US National Museum for the Division of Textiles from the Netherlands East Indies Commission at the close of the Exposition.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1914-1915
ID Number
TE.T02932.000
catalog number
T02932.000
accession number
59191
One of five hanks of Spanish silkworm gut fishing line, "Extra salmon trout"; Spain 1880. Imported by and purchased from Conroy, Bissett & Malleson, 65 Fulton St. NY, NY. For the London Fisheries Exhibition, 1883.
Description (Brief)
One of five hanks of Spanish silkworm gut fishing line, "Extra salmon trout"; Spain 1880. Imported by and purchased from Conroy, Bissett & Malleson, 65 Fulton St. NY, NY. For the London Fisheries Exhibition, 1883. See the US National Museum Bulletin No.127, p.27.
Used for trout, salmon and bass leaders. Price $4.00 per 100. (No. E-42833: "Extra Salmon Trout"),
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca. 1880
ID Number
TE.T01096.00B
catalog number
T01096.000
accession number
8655
catalog number
T1096.00B
Alençon needle lace cuff with large scrolling floral motifsCurrently not on view
Description (Brief)
Alençon needle lace cuff with large scrolling floral motifs
Location
Currently not on view
ID Number
TE.L7377A
catalog number
L7377.00A
Sample of waxed cotton cloth after indigo dye bath; step nine in the Javanese batik process, 1915. Approximately 10" x 12"; Design has a central butterfly motif surrounded by scrolling ferns and curlicues; with four outer borders.This sample has been dyed in the indigo bath.
Description
Sample of waxed cotton cloth after indigo dye bath; step nine in the Javanese batik process, 1915. Approximately 10" x 12"; Design has a central butterfly motif surrounded by scrolling ferns and curlicues; with four outer borders.This sample has been dyed in the indigo bath. Step nine in a set of 14 process samples together with 22 finished items, made by prisoners in Java for display at the 1915 Panama-Pacific Exposition in San Francisco. Purchased by the US National Museum for the Division of Textiles from the Netherlands East Indies Commission at the close of the Exposition.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1914-1915
ID Number
TE.T02914.000
catalog number
T02914.000
accession number
59191
Vertical rows of symmetrical grape vines, addorsed doves, and carpet medallion starbursts are accented by horizontal bands of blue, gold, and red in this coverlet. The two side borders feature a double border of repeating geometric motifs and scrollwork.
Description
Vertical rows of symmetrical grape vines, addorsed doves, and carpet medallion starbursts are accented by horizontal bands of blue, gold, and red in this coverlet. The two side borders feature a double border of repeating geometric motifs and scrollwork. The bottom border depicts a variety of floral motifs, a house with two chimneys, and, rather unusually, confronted giraffes. The two cornerblocks show a trademark of four, eight-petaled flowers within a box over two more empty boxes. Those other boxes would have contained the date, maker’s name, and customer’s name, if requested. The lower edge of the coverlet has been lost completely. This coverlet is tied-Beiderwand, an integrated weave structure similar to lampas that uses a complementary binding warp to unify two separate fabrics. The warp is composed of 3-ply, S-twist, Z-spun cotton and a blue Z-spun cotton single binding warp, and the weft is made up of 3-ply, S-twist, Z-spun cotton yarn and high twist, Z-spun wool singles. This coverlet was first owned by the donor’s grandparents, Peter and Eliza Hannon Hunter (married in 1832), and family legend states that Peter bought this coverlet for his wife, Eliza at a local fair around 1840 from an “itinerant weaver.” The myth of the itinerant weaver has stuck with the American cultural memory for generations. While it is true that some weavers did travel to people’s home to weave, they did not carry their looms with them as they were cumbersome and America’s over-land transportation system was not in good working order until the middle of the twentieth century. Traveling weavers would have woven things that couldn’t be produced by the family on the family’s own loom them move on to the next farm. This is not the case with this coverlet; however, it was possibly purchased at a fair rather than custom ordered because of the lack of date and the apparent lack of names in the corner blocks. This is likely a ready-made piece of stock that was sold at the fair Peter and Eliza attended back in 1840. Although there is no signature, the patterns used, particularly that vertical centerfield arrangement and confronted giraffe border, allow us to attribute this coverlet to the work of the Hesse brothers in Somerset, Hocking, and Perry Counties, Ohio. Frederick A. (b. 1801), Frederick E. (b. 1827), and L. Hesse (b. 1809) were Saxon immigrants from what was then the Kingdom of Prussia. They settled in Ohio, each opening their own weaving business. The brothers have extant coverlets dating from the years, 1838-1862 collectively.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca. 1840
ID Number
TE.T10095
catalog number
T10095.000
accession number
181280
White on white embroidered muslin collar with Mechlin bobbin lace border with Fond d'Armour 12-thread ground from the late 18th century.Currently not on view
Description (Brief)
White on white embroidered muslin collar with Mechlin bobbin lace border with Fond d'Armour 12-thread ground from the late 18th century.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
Late 18th century
ID Number
TE.L6901
catalog number
L6901.000
accession number
50762
Sample of waxed cotton cloth with blue dyed areas re-waxed (reverse); step twelve in the Javanese batik process, 1915. Approximately 10" x 12"; Design has a central butterfly motif surrounded by scrolling ferns and curlicues; with four outer borders.
Description
Sample of waxed cotton cloth with blue dyed areas re-waxed (reverse); step twelve in the Javanese batik process, 1915. Approximately 10" x 12"; Design has a central butterfly motif surrounded by scrolling ferns and curlicues; with four outer borders. This sample has had the blue-dyed areas re-waxed on the reverse, in order to protect them when the fabric is immersed in the red dye bath.. Step twelve in a set of 14 process samples together with 22 finished items, made by prisoners in Java for display at the 1915 Panama-Pacific Exposition in San Francisco. Purchased by the US National Museum for the Division of Textiles from the Netherlands East Indies Commission at the close of the Exposition.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1914-1915
ID Number
TE.T02917.000
catalog number
T02917.000
accession number
59191
Lace edging from Malacca, East Indies. Torchon bobbin lace made with cream colored silkCurrently not on view
Description (Brief)
Lace edging from Malacca, East Indies. Torchon bobbin lace made with cream colored silk
Location
Currently not on view
ID Number
TE.E247182
catalog number
E247182.000
Miniature sewing machine and cabinet; cabinet decorated with six panel paintings and inlaid with mother-of-pearl depicting wedding of Tom Thumb and Lavinia Warren Bump, their carriage ride in Central Park, patriotic panels of each of them with the American flag, and the back pane
Description
Miniature sewing machine and cabinet; cabinet decorated with six panel paintings and inlaid with mother-of-pearl depicting wedding of Tom Thumb and Lavinia Warren Bump, their carriage ride in Central Park, patriotic panels of each of them with the American flag, and the back panels show a woman sewing by hand and then sewing using a Wheeler and Wilson Sewing Machine. All sides of the case protecting the sewing machine head have painted decorations: an American Eagle is painted on the front; on the right side a cherub with crossed arms; on the left side a cherub resting his chin on a hand; and the Wheeler and Wilson factory is shown on the back. Inside the cabinet are five drawers with ivory knobs containing sewing bobbins, four glass presser feet, one package of five needles, one wrench and one attachment guide The flywheel and other parts within the cabinet are silver-plated. Two separate foot shaped treadles measure a tiny 7 1/2"L x 2"W.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1862
owner
Thumb, Tom
Bump, Lavinia Warren
maker
Wheeler and Wilson Manufacturing Company
ID Number
1992.0109.01
catalog number
1992.0109.01
accession number
1992.0109
Hannah Chandler (1761-1836) wove this "American Beauty" pattern, overshot coverlet using a light and medium blue 2-ply, S-twist, Z-spun indigo-dyed cotton and linen warp, a Z-spun cotton single weft, and a 2-ply, S-twist, Z-spun gold wool supplementary pattern weft.
Description
Hannah Chandler (1761-1836) wove this "American Beauty" pattern, overshot coverlet using a light and medium blue 2-ply, S-twist, Z-spun indigo-dyed cotton and linen warp, a Z-spun cotton single weft, and a 2-ply, S-twist, Z-spun gold wool supplementary pattern weft. The coverlet was woven as one length, cut in half, folded back on itself, and seamed up the middle, creating the full coverlet width. Although undated in the weave and lacking an embroidered date on the hemline, this coverlet was most likely woven c. 1790-1825 near Wilmington, Vermont. This coverlet is said to be made by Hannah Chandler. The donor is the great-granddaughter of Hannah, wife of Medad Smith. Hannah Chandler was born October 28, 1761 and died April 26, 1836. Medad Smith was born February 22, 1755, and married Hannah October 23, 1781. The coverlet was originally dated at 1780, but this is too early for plied cotton yarns to be found in the warp. Technology improved toward the end of the 18th century allowing for stronger cotton yarns that could withstand the tension of the loom. This coverlet is interesting because of the blue-dyed cotton and linen threads. When contrasted with the gold wool, this coverlet would have really stood out in a room.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1780
ca.1780
date made
c. 1790-1825
maker
Chandler, Hannah
Chandler, Hannah
ID Number
TE.T7728
catalog number
T7728
T. 7728
accession number
139053
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
ID Number
1984.0111.069
accession number
1984.0111
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
ID Number
2011.0164.36
catalog number
2011.0164.36
accession number
2011.0164
This is an overshot coverlet from mid nineteenth century, which features a patch pattern in the center. There are borders on three sides of the coverlet, formed by a fractional reduction of the central patch design.
Description
This is an overshot coverlet from mid nineteenth century, which features a patch pattern in the center. There are borders on three sides of the coverlet, formed by a fractional reduction of the central patch design. The wool yarns appear to be hand spun and dyed using plant-based dyes. The weaver used yellow along with dark and light brown yarns along with a coral colored yarn. The coral yarn may have been a different color when the coverlet was new and faded over time due to use, light, and age. There is a seam down the middle sewn with cotton thread. This coverlet was made in Maryland, possibly Street, Maryland and was woven by an unknown family member for the donor's grandfather, Samuel Sedgwick Scarborough (March 22, 1836-March 4, 1903). The coverlet passed to his son, the donor’s father. The Scarborough family came to Pennsylvania with William Penn and fought in the Revolutionary War. This coverlet is believed to have been woven by a member of the family as a loom was also passed down through the generations. The donor recalled her aunt making rugs on the old loom, which has since disappeared. The coverlet is in excellent condition and measures 94 inches by 80.5 inches. Overshot; Unusual colors, gold, brown, orange (may have been red).
Location
Currently not on view
date made
19th century
c. 1840-1850
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T15800
catalog number
T15800.000
accession number
297386
Javanese batik table cover for the Western market, 1915. Original cataloging identifies the pattern as "Pisang bali", in brown and blue on a white ground, and the price as 11 F. or $4.40. Design is quite open, symmetrical around the four quarters of the square cloth.
Description
Javanese batik table cover for the Western market, 1915. Original cataloging identifies the pattern as "Pisang bali", in brown and blue on a white ground, and the price as 11 F. or $4.40. Design is quite open, symmetrical around the four quarters of the square cloth. Large central lobed medallion with arc and floral motifs. One of 22 finished batik textiles, together with 14 process samples, made by prisoners in Java for exhibition at the 1915 Panama-Pacific Exposition in San Francisco. Purchased by the US National Museum for the Division of Textiles from the Netherlands East Indies Commission at the close of the Exposition.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1914-1915
ID Number
TE.T02929.000
catalog number
T02929.000
accession number
59191
Sample of fourth wax drawing (details, reverse) on cotton cloth; step six in the Javanese batik process, 1915.
Description
Sample of fourth wax drawing (details, reverse) on cotton cloth; step six in the Javanese batik process, 1915. Approximately 10" x 12"; Design has a central butterfly motif surrounded by scrolling ferns and curlicues; with four outer borders.This sample has had the small details and dots drawn on the reverse.. Step six in a set of 14 process samples together with 22 finished items, made by prisoners in Java for display at the 1915 Panama-Pacific Exposition in San Francisco. Purchased by the US National Museum for the Division of Textiles from the Netherlands East Indies Commission at the close of the Exposition.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1914-1915
ID Number
TE.T02911.000
catalog number
T02911.000
accession number
59191
Length of a Cheney Brothers multicolored silk satin damask, 1913. All silk turned satin weave damask. Foliate wreath and artichoke ogival design in gold on blue, green, gold striped ground. Yarns: warp – green, blue, tan, weft – gold color.
Description (Brief)
Length of a Cheney Brothers multicolored silk satin damask, 1913. All silk turned satin weave damask. Foliate wreath and artichoke ogival design in gold on blue, green, gold striped ground. Yarns: warp – green, blue, tan, weft – gold color. Pattern; Warp striped ground of satin weave; reverse of the satin weave is the leaf pattern ogee in slide layout; the lengthwise pattern repeat is 22 in. (W. 51 in., L. 36 in.) Renaissance into 17th century style.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1913
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T00103.000
catalog number
T00103.000
accession number
55080
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
ID Number
TE.E179006
catalog number
E179006.000
accession number
25819
Javanese batik piano runner for the western market, 1915. Long narrow cotton rectangle, batiked with a repeating pattern of garuda bird wings against a densely patterned ground of plant forms.
Description
Javanese batik piano runner for the western market, 1915. Long narrow cotton rectangle, batiked with a repeating pattern of garuda bird wings against a densely patterned ground of plant forms. Triple borders on all four sides:geometric, scrolling vine, and outer border of plain dark blue. 47" L x 6" W. Original cataloging identifies the design as "Pesi keorsen." brown and indigo blue, white details. Price listed on the catalog card as: 6F., $2.40. An example of the use of traditional Javanese technique and patterning for a form meant for the European or Western trade. One of 22 finished batik textiles, together with 14 process samples, made by prisoners in Java for exhibition at the 1915 Panama-Pacific Exposition in San Francisco. Purchased by the US National Museum for the Division of Textiles from the Netherlands East Indies Commission at the close of the Exposition.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1914-1915
ID Number
TE.T02936.000
catalog number
T02936.000
accession number
59191
Law enforcement personnel joined with many other groups to save lives in the wake of Katrina's passage through the Gulf Coast in August 2005.
Description
Law enforcement personnel joined with many other groups to save lives in the wake of Katrina's passage through the Gulf Coast in August 2005. Skills used to apprehend criminals were supplemented by heroic attempts to rescue victims caught up in the swirling waters of the hurricane.
On the night of the hurricane Officer David Waite of the New Orleans Police Department was wearing this bullet-proof vest when he jumped into deep water in a city housing project to save a five-day-old girl. That girl and her family were escaping their housing in an overloaded boat that had just capsized. A nearby police boat witnessed the scene. The girl's mother attempted to lift the baby out of the water, but the infant seat in which she was strapped was too heavy and sank. Waite swam down to it and pulled the seat and baby into his craft. Another officer, Lejon Roberts, administered CPR to the infant as their boat sped to a nearby hospital. The child and her family survived.
Location
Currently not on view
Associated Date
August - September 2005
user
Waite, David J.
referenced
Roberts, LeJon
New Orleans Police Department
ID Number
2006.0066.01
catalog number
2006.0066.01
accession number
2006.0066
Javanese batik necktie for the western market, 1915. A long narrow cotton rectangle, approx. 39" L x 4" W. The shape of a flat man's bow tie, narrow in the center and widening out to angled ends, is batiked onto the cloth, and surrounded by a dark blue edge.
Description
Javanese batik necktie for the western market, 1915. A long narrow cotton rectangle, approx. 39" L x 4" W. The shape of a flat man's bow tie, narrow in the center and widening out to angled ends, is batiked onto the cloth, and surrounded by a dark blue edge. Made to be cut out and sewn with a lining to make a man's bowtie. Repeat pattern of checks with crosses and dots. Brown and indigo blue. An example of the use of traditional Javanese technique and patterning for a form meant for the European or Western trade. One of 22 finished batik textiles, together with 14 process samples, made by prisoners in Java for exhibition at the 1915 Panama-Pacific Exposition in San Francisco. Purchased by the US National Museum for the Division of Textiles from the Netherlands East Indies Commission at the close of the Exposition.Original cataloging identifies pattern as "Djamblungi", Price listed as 2 F. or $0.80
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1914-1915
ID Number
TE.T02939.000
catalog number
T02939.000
accession number
59191

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