Textiles

The 50,000 objects in the textile collections fall into two main categories: raw fibers, yarns, and fabrics, and machines, tools, and other textile technology. Shawls, coverlets, samplers, laces, linens, synthetics, and other fabrics are part of the first group, along with the 400 quilts in the National Quilt Collection. Some of the Museum's most popular artifacts, such as the Star-Spangled Banner and the gowns of the first ladies, have an obvious textile connection.

The machinery and tools include spinning wheels, sewing machines, thimbles, needlework tools, looms, and an invention that changed the course of American agriculture and society. A model of Eli Whitney's cotton gin, made by the inventor in the early 1800s, shows the workings of a machine that helped make cotton plantations profitable in the South and encouraged the spread of slavery.

A length of printed crepe plain weave fabric. Pattern "Colonial Stars", one of the H.R. Mallinson & Co.George Washington Bicentennial Prints.
Description
A length of printed crepe plain weave fabric. Pattern "Colonial Stars", one of the H.R. Mallinson & Co.George Washington Bicentennial Prints. The allover, tossed, non-directional design uses blue stars, singly and in groups of 2 and 3 against a ground of evenly spaced tiny blue dots on an off-white ground. The discoloration and oily residue apparent on this fabric sample suggests that either a) it was not either pure dye or pure silk, as are most of the other Mallinson fabrics; or b) it was stored in contact with another object from which it picked up the residue which discolored it. More research needs to be done to determine the origin of the damage.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1932
maker
H R Mallinson and Company, Incorporated
ID Number
TE.T06960
accession number
118355
catalog number
T06960.000
..A length of Mallinson trade name "Indestructible Voile" sheer silk fabric printed with the "Palm Beach" design from the firm's 1928 "Playgrounds of the World" series.
Description
..A length of Mallinson trade name "Indestructible Voile" sheer silk fabric printed with the "Palm Beach" design from the firm's 1928 "Playgrounds of the World" series. "Indestructible Voile" was one of the Mallinson firm's perennial best-selling silk qualities, and was a long-serving trade name. The print is an allover design with a block layout; scenes of bathing, dining, horseback riding, and architectural features of the "Palm Beach" scene, set off by palm trees. Colorway is in in shades of red, purple, gray and yellow on ground of pink (tea rose). The typical Mallinson selvage inscription, Mallinson's Silks DeLuxe Playgrounds of the World Palm Beach. Company numbers: 1800/2664. Colorway # 13. The company gave a photograph of the area represented in the design as part of this accession.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1928
maker
H. R. Mallinson & Co. Inc.
ID Number
TE.T05736
catalog number
T5736
T (/) 5736
accession number
101284
Length of batik (wax-resist-dyed) fabric, extraordinary non-repeating design of domesticated and wild animals, birds, insects, reptiles, human figures, and flowers in multi-colors on an off white, plain weave cotton ground, patterned with scrolling stems and small comma-like mark
Description
Length of batik (wax-resist-dyed) fabric, extraordinary non-repeating design of domesticated and wild animals, birds, insects, reptiles, human figures, and flowers in multi-colors on an off white, plain weave cotton ground, patterned with scrolling stems and small comma-like marks. Figures not to one scale. There is a building depicted in the center, and many of the figures are shown in pairs, possibly male and female. Noah's Ark depiction? Or another myth? Java, Indonesia; 1900-1950. 97.5" L x 41.5" wide. Selvage width panel. Tjanting batik, with the wax drawn by hand. One of three batiks with very different patterning given by the same donor, and numbered as .00A, .00B, and .00C. One of a group of five Indonesian textiles given by the donor.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1900-1950
ID Number
TE.T18487.00C
catalog number
T18487.00C
accession number
1978.0620
A length of printed pure dye silk crepe. Soft lustrous plain weave fabric pattern "Virginia Floral", one of the H.R. Mallinson & Co. George Washington Bicentennial prints.
Description
A length of printed pure dye silk crepe. Soft lustrous plain weave fabric pattern "Virginia Floral", one of the H.R. Mallinson & Co. George Washington Bicentennial prints. Colonial gardens inspired the design of flower garlands, dotted with candlesticks and lanterns.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1932
maker
H R Mallinson and Company, Incorporated
ID Number
TE.T06951
accession number
118355
catalog number
T06951.000
accession number
118355
A length of printed crepe. Pattern "Nellie Custis" one of the H.R. Mallinson & Co.
Description
A length of printed crepe. Pattern "Nellie Custis" one of the H.R. Mallinson & Co. George Washington Bicentennial prints.Pattern inspired by an old silk brocade is made up of many different tiny flower motifs with plain 2 inch border along one selvage, outlined with a flower garland in a running vine effect. The discoloration and oily residue apparent in this textile sample suggests that either a) it was not either pure dye or pure silk, as most of the other Mallinson samples are, or b) it was stored for some time in contact with another object that damaged it. Additional research should be done to determine the source and cause of the discoloration and residue.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1932
maker
H R Mallinson and Company, Incorporated
ID Number
TE.T06955
accession number
118355
catalog number
T06955.000
A length of Mallinson trade name "Vagabond crepe" novelty silk printed with the "Palm Beach" design from the firm's 1928 "Playgrounds of the World" series.
Description
A length of Mallinson trade name "Vagabond crepe" novelty silk printed with the "Palm Beach" design from the firm's 1928 "Playgrounds of the World" series. This crepe variation is woven with doupioni weft or filling (rough, irregular silk reeled from double cocoons) and silk warp. The print is an allover design with a block layout; scenes of bathing, dining, horseback riding, and architectural features of the "Palm Beach" scene, set off by palm trees. Colorway is in blue, orchid, tan, brown, gold and black on a white ground.
The typical Mallinson selvage inscription, Mallinson's Silks DeLuxe Playgrounds of the World Palm Beach. Company numbers: 523/2664. Colorway # 16.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1928
maker
H. R. Mallinson & Co. Inc.
ID Number
TE.T05742
catalog number
T (/) 5742
T5742
accession number
101284
After a young lady learned to embroider a sampler, she might attend a female academy to make a silk embroidered picture. This was a more challenging technique that became popular in the early 1800s.
Description
After a young lady learned to embroider a sampler, she might attend a female academy to make a silk embroidered picture. This was a more challenging technique that became popular in the early 1800s. Subjects included classical, biblical, and historical scenes, as well as mourning pictures. The death of George Washington gave impetus to this new fad of the mourning picture. The genre included an assortment of plinths, urn, mourners, and trees in a garden setting.
This mourning embroidery by Mary Gorham was dedicated to her father, Capt. Isaac Gorham. The pastoral image shows a woman approaching an urn on a plinth that rests beneath a three-branched weeping willow. The large gold urn, outlined in brown and garlanded with flowers, carries on its marble-simulated silk embroidered pedestal the inked inscription: "Cap.t Isaac / Gorham born / Feb.y 15 . 1747 . died / Aug.t. 13. 1795. aged / 48." The young woman, in a white Regency costume with a brown bow, stands to the right of the urn. Her bonnet is completed in black ink; her features and curls are inked in brown; one arm is outlined in graphite, and the other is barely visible behind a willow branch. The picture is in the original gold leaf frame, and the glass is reverse-painted in black, with gold leaf motifs in each corner and a 1/4" gold rim around the oval mourning picture with the maker's name, "M. GORHAM," at the bottom. It is stitched on a plain weave ivory silk ground with silk embroidery threads. The stitches are seed, lazy daisy, straight, satin, and outline.
This example includes the typical objects found in mourning embroideries: a garden, weeping willow trees, a woman in mourning, and an urn on a plinth. The willow tree is a symbol of mourning and sorrow as well as a tree that drains the ground of water, thereby keeping the site dry. Capt. Isaac Gorham was a mariner and he died at sea.
Mary Gorham was born December 10, 1791, to Isaac and Sarah Thomas Gorham in Bristol, Rhode Island. She married Rev. John P. K. Henshaw(1792-1852) on July 19, 1814. They had eleven children: John Kewley (1815-1843), Alexander (1817-1854), Mary Gorham (1819-1888), William Milnor (1820-1850), Rev. Daniel (1822-1908), Charles Henry (1825-1825), Elizabeth W. (1826-1826), I. Gorham (1828-1828), Charles Henry (1830-1910), Richmond (1833-1890), and Sarah (1831-1832). Mary died September 26, 1881, in Bristol, Rhode Island. See her older sister Jemina Gorham’s sampler.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1805
maker
Gorham, Mary
Gorham, Mary
ID Number
2007.0156.01
accession number
2007.0156
catalog number
2007.0156.01
Currently on loan
Location
Currently on loan
date made
1970
ID Number
TE.T15559.000
catalog number
T15559.000
accession number
295253
Currently on loan
Location
Currently on loan
date made
1965
ID Number
TE.T15564.000
catalog number
T15564.000
accession number
295253
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1860
bequest of
James, Catalina Juliana Mason Myers
ID Number
CS.033675.176
catalog number
033675.176
accession number
70138
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1861
bequest of
James, Catalina Juliana Mason Myers
ID Number
CS.033675.175
catalog number
033675.175
accession number
70138
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1964
ID Number
TE.T15542.000
catalog number
T15542.000
accession number
295253
Brussels bobbin lace motifs applied to handmade Droschel bobbin lace net from the early 19th century.Currently not on view
Description (Brief)
Brussels bobbin lace motifs applied to handmade Droschel bobbin lace net from the early 19th century.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1800-1815
ID Number
TE.L7016
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1861
bequest of
James, Catalina Juliana Mason Myers
ID Number
CS.033675.027
catalog number
033675.027
accession number
70138
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1860
bequest of
James, Catalina Juliana Mason Myers
ID Number
CS.033675.014
catalog number
033675.014
accession number
70138
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1860
bequest of
James, Catalina Juliana Mason Myers
ID Number
CS.033675.022
catalog number
033675.022
accession number
70138
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1861
bequest of
James, Catalina Juliana Mason Myers
ID Number
CS.033675.043
catalog number
033675.043
accession number
70138
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1861
bequest of
James, Catalina Juliana Mason Myers
ID Number
CS.033675.040
catalog number
033675.040
accession number
70138
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1860
bequest of
James, Catalina Juliana Mason Myers
ID Number
CS.033675.009
catalog number
033675.009
accession number
70138
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
????-10
ID Number
CS.244128.095
catalog number
244128.095
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1860
bequest of
James, Catalina Juliana Mason Myers
ID Number
CS.033675.006
catalog number
033675.006
accession number
70138
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1860
bequest of
James, Catalina Juliana Mason Myers
ID Number
CS.033675.177
catalog number
033675.177
accession number
70138
Date made
????-09
ID Number
CS.244128.107
catalog number
244128.107
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1861
bequest of
James, Catalina Juliana Mason Myers
ID Number
CS.033675.033
catalog number
033675.033
accession number
70138

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