Textiles

The 50,000 objects in the textile collections fall into two main categories: raw fibers, yarns, and fabrics, and machines, tools, and other textile technology. Shawls, coverlets, samplers, laces, linens, synthetics, and other fabrics are part of the first group, along with the 400 quilts in the National Quilt Collection. Some of the Museum's most popular artifacts, such as the Star-Spangled Banner and the gowns of the first ladies, have an obvious textile connection.

The machinery and tools include spinning wheels, sewing machines, thimbles, needlework tools, looms, and an invention that changed the course of American agriculture and society. A model of Eli Whitney's cotton gin, made by the inventor in the early 1800s, shows the workings of a machine that helped make cotton plantations profitable in the South and encouraged the spread of slavery.

..A length of Mallinson trade name "Indestructible Voile" sheer silk fabric printed with the "Palm Beach" design from the firm's 1928 "Playgrounds of the World" series.
Description
..A length of Mallinson trade name "Indestructible Voile" sheer silk fabric printed with the "Palm Beach" design from the firm's 1928 "Playgrounds of the World" series. "Indestructible Voile" was one of the Mallinson firm's perennial best-selling silk qualities, and was a long-serving trade name. The print is an allover design with a block layout; scenes of bathing, dining, horseback riding, and architectural features of the "Palm Beach" scene, set off by palm trees. Colorway is in in shades of red, purple, gray and yellow on ground of pink (tea rose). The typical Mallinson selvage inscription, Mallinson's Silks DeLuxe Playgrounds of the World Palm Beach. Company numbers: 1800/2664. Colorway # 13. The company gave a photograph of the area represented in the design as part of this accession.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1928
maker
H. R. Mallinson & Co. Inc.
ID Number
TE.T05736
catalog number
T5736
T (/) 5736
accession number
101284
A length of Mallinson trade name "Vagabond crepe" novelty silk printed with the "Palm Beach" design from the firm's 1928 "Playgrounds of the World" series.
Description
A length of Mallinson trade name "Vagabond crepe" novelty silk printed with the "Palm Beach" design from the firm's 1928 "Playgrounds of the World" series. This crepe variation is woven with doupioni weft or filling (rough, irregular silk reeled from double cocoons) and silk warp. The print is an allover design with a block layout; scenes of bathing, dining, horseback riding, and architectural features of the "Palm Beach" scene, set off by palm trees. Colorway is in blue, orchid, tan, brown, gold and black on a white ground.
The typical Mallinson selvage inscription, Mallinson's Silks DeLuxe Playgrounds of the World Palm Beach. Company numbers: 523/2664. Colorway # 16.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1928
maker
H. R. Mallinson & Co. Inc.
ID Number
TE.T05742
catalog number
T (/) 5742
T5742
accession number
101284
Javanese pictorial batik, "Wayang" scene; Sie King Goan (factory); 1927.
Description
Javanese pictorial batik, "Wayang" scene; Sie King Goan (factory); 1927. This is a long rectangular wall hanging with figures laid out horizontally along the selvage of the cloth, representing historical drama of early Java, as follows: Kolo Denla, the king of the Wild men, or giants, with a crown of ivory, receiving the tree of peace from the Kristeno dynasty, represented by Bratasena, the Strong man of Java, 2nd son of Krisno, the first king of the Kristeno dynasty. Djojodrolo, the son of the Strong man, who was able to fly, accompanying his father for protection. Gadamana, another son of the Strong Man, able to traverse the sea and earth, also helping his father. The decoration across the top of the hanging represents the ceiling and corners, each man being near a corner, of the court room of the Giant. At the bottom is the representation of a cement floor inlaid with square marble slabs, of three kinds, carved. Between the two sons is a pot of flowering plants, much prized by the Javanese. Note the characteristic armlets, bracelets, and anklets and necklaces. Colors are: Nilo (indigo), Bang bangan (red), Koedoe (brown), poedih (white or flesh). The donor described the batik-making process she observed at the factory of Sie King Goan (proprietor and name of the factory), Solosche Batikhandelaar, street address: Kanggotan, Solo, Java. First, the plain cotton cloth, which she described as muslin, is bleached in castor oil and lye water for about 15 days. Then it is boiled for about 2 hours to remove the oil and prepare it for waxing. The wayang figures representing historical accounts of early Java were drawn in pencil by men. Women traced the pencil drawing with the tjanting, which deposits the wax for the resist-dyeing. They use beeswax, which is melted in an oven. The blue and black dyes are from indigo, obtained from a plant which the Javanese call "nilo." The cloth must be in the dye bath for the indigo for from 10-30 days. After dyeing the cloth is boiled to remove the wax. The cloth is then rewaxed for the next dye bath. For the brown dye the root of the koedoe tree is used. The bark is crushed and the juice diluted. In this bath the batik is dipped twice a day and immediately dried, but not in the sun, because the heat of the sun may melt the wax. Dyeing takes 10 to 15 days. The dyed cloth is then again boiled and rewaxed. The red dye, bang-bangan, is a mixture of about a dozen different kinds of leaves and flowers that give red coloring materials. The length of time to be kept in the bath depends upon how deep the color is wanted. The dyed cloth is again boiled and rewaxed. The yellow dye is from Koeningan, obtained from a tree. Branches are chopped off into small pieces and boiled for 5 or 6 hours. The batiks are boiled in it for at least 2 hours. Starch may be used to stiffen the batik. Usually the hard press of packing serves to iron the batiks.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca. 1927
maker
Sie King Goan, Solosche Batikkery
ID Number
TE.T05648.000
catalog number
T05648.000
Length of Cheney Brothers silk fabric. Jacquard-woven, continuous supplementary weft patterned all-silk fabric composed of spun silk warp with 12 shuttles of different colors of silk producing the figures.
Description
Length of Cheney Brothers silk fabric. Jacquard-woven, continuous supplementary weft patterned all-silk fabric composed of spun silk warp with 12 shuttles of different colors of silk producing the figures. Patterned with a 17th century (Baroque) Flemish-style medallion and meander design of urns of flowers and wreaths of flowers, wheat, and grapes in blue, green, purple, and pink on narrow striped yellow ground. Style 4584/4. Wholesaled for $18.75 per yd. (W. 50 in., L. 3 1/3 yds.)
These furnishing silks were, along with the patterned velvets, represent the most expensive and exclusive textiles that Cheney Brothers produced.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1925
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T05114.000
catalog number
T05114.000
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1925
ID Number
TE.T16122
catalog number
T16122.00S
accession number
299421
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1900-1920
ID Number
TE.T13081.000
catalog number
T13081.000
accession number
250072
One skein of thrown silk: Three thread Japan tram in the raw. Tram yarn was used for weft or filling in woven goods and for knitting.
Description
One skein of thrown silk: Three thread Japan tram in the raw. Tram yarn was used for weft or filling in woven goods and for knitting. Part of a donation of 63 samples representing the processes of silk skein-dyeing, and silk piece-dyeing and printing, given by the National Silk Dyeing Co of Paterson, New Jersey, in 1915. National Silk Dyeing Co., headquartered at 140 Market St., Paterson, NJ was formed from five silk dyeing firms in Peterson, NJ (Auger & Simon Silk Dyeing Company; Emil Geering Silk Dyeing Co., Knipscher & Maas Silk Dyeing Company, Kearns Brothers, and Gaede Silk Dyeing Co.) and a fifth company from Allentown, Pa. (Lotte Brothers under the leadership of Charles I. Auger. National Silk Dyeing immediately became one of the large silk dyeing conglomerates in the nation. It operated into the Great Depression but was eventually broken up and sold off.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1922
1915
maker
National Silk Dyeing Co.
ID Number
TE.T02794.000
catalog number
T02794.000
accession number
58940
catalog number
T2794
Length of sheer silk voile--known as "Indestructible Chiffon Voile" -- Mallinson trade name for a sheer, plain weave, all silk fabric (mfr #1800). Printed with all over pattern (mfr #2764) one of the Mallinson Early American series--titled Early American Transportation.
Description
Length of sheer silk voile--known as "Indestructible Chiffon Voile" -- Mallinson trade name for a sheer, plain weave, all silk fabric (mfr #1800). Printed with all over pattern (mfr #2764) one of the Mallinson Early American series--titled Early American Transportation. The design illustrates such incidents as DeWitt Clinton crossing Erie Canal with canal boat in foreground, train pulling into old Schenectady, Palisades with the Hudson and the Clermont in foreground, as well as other forms of transportation such as horseback, stagecoaches, and early trains. Seven colors (reds, yellows, black) on a white ground. Selvage width, selvage inscription. Judging from drawings by free-lance textile designer Walter Mitschke in the collection of the Museum of Fine Arts - Boston, Mitschke designed this print and several others in the Early American series.
Mallinson's 1929 "Early American" series of printed dress silks was based on historical events and figures that were perceived at the time to consitute a shared American story. It was the last of the company's line of designs based on American themes in which each design was printed in at least seven colors, in several colorways, on three or four different ground cloths. The stock market crash and economic depression that followed made the investment in this kind of design unprofitable.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1929
maker
H. R. Mallinson & Co. Inc.
ID Number
TE.T05943
catalog number
T5943
T (/) 5943
accession number
104252
Bruges bobbin lace collar. Floral design. Probably made in the early 20th CenturyCurrently not on view
Description (Brief)
Bruges bobbin lace collar. Floral design. Probably made in the early 20th Century
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1900-1920
ID Number
TE.T12835
catalog number
T12835.000
accession number
243364
Length of printed "Pussy Willow" (Mallinson trade name) silk. - A fine soft, radium-like plain weave fabric (mfr #1900).
Description
Length of printed "Pussy Willow" (Mallinson trade name) silk. - A fine soft, radium-like plain weave fabric (mfr #1900). Printed with an all over pattern (mfr #2775) titled "Memories of the Alamo." The design features images of The Alamo, Bluebonnets - the state flower of Texas, and in the background in lighter tones, a "Vision of the defenders of the Alamo" (Travis, Bowie, and Crockett) and Sam Houston on horseback. Six colors and black on a white ground. One of the Mallinson 1929 Early American Series of printed dress silks. Selvage width; selvage inscription.
Mallinson's 1929 "Early American" series of printed dress silks was based on historical events and figures that were perceived at the time to consitute a shared American story. It was the last of the company's line of designs based on American themes in which each design was printed in at least seven colors, in several colorways, on three or four different ground cloths. The stock market crash and economic depression that followed made the investment in this kind of design unprofitable.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1929
maker
H. R. Mallinson & Co. Inc.
H. R. Mallinson & Co. Inc.
ID Number
TE.T05941
catalog number
T5941
T (/) 5941
accession number
104252
Oiled plain weave white cotton cloth sample; step two in the Javanese batik process, 1924. This cloth is industrially produced and imported from Europe to Java, where it is used as the basis for the production of batiks.
Description
Oiled plain weave white cotton cloth sample; step two in the Javanese batik process, 1924. This cloth is industrially produced and imported from Europe to Java, where it is used as the basis for the production of batiks. In this step, the cloth has been soaked in oil to give the dye applied later a clear, bright tone. Approximately 10" x 10"; Has four straight parallel lines drawn in on each side of the square to delineate borders. Second in a set of 15 process samples. The American Vice Consul in Charge in Surabaya, Java, Rollin R. Winslow, was given these samples in 1924 by Miss E.F. Kerston of a local curiousity shop/dealer in batik called Inlandsche Kunst. Winslow then sent the samples to the Dept. of State as part of his report on local commerce and dyes, expressing the wish that they be forwarded as a donation to the Smithsonian when the State Dept. no longer had a need for them.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca. 1924
ID Number
TE.T05220.000
catalog number
T05220.000
accession number
85359
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1910-1920
ID Number
TE.T04199.000
catalog number
T04199.000
accession number
65041
A length of "Vagabond Crepe" dress silk, from H.R. Mallinson & Co.'s "Playgrounds of the World" series of printed silks.
Description
A length of "Vagabond Crepe" dress silk, from H.R. Mallinson & Co.'s "Playgrounds of the World" series of printed silks. This sample is an allover printed design, "French Riviera", a landscape design with large reserves, and scenes of palm trees, sailboats, beach-goers, and buildings. Colors are black, canary yellow, tan, brown, blue, orange and cream on a ground of grey. "Vagabond" crepe is a Mallinson tradename for a crepe twist fabric woven with doupioni silk in the weft or filling. Selvage inscription - Mallinson's Silks Deluxe Playgrounds of the World French Riviera. The series dates to 1928 and included both European and American "playgrounds". NMAH holds samples of each design in the series..
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1928
maker
H. R. Mallinson & Co. Inc.
ID Number
TE.T5740
catalog number
T5740
T (/) 5740
accession number
101284
Sample length of Cheney Brothers printed "Shikii" silk fabric. A lightweight, drapey plain weave fabric; rough surfaced, with silk warp and silk frisons weft.
Description
Sample length of Cheney Brothers printed "Shikii" silk fabric. A lightweight, drapey plain weave fabric; rough surfaced, with silk warp and silk frisons weft. Printed with an allover pattern of Persian or Indian-inspired vases, flowers, and feathers in vases (#25546) in brown, orange, tan, black, and white on natural pongee-colored (beige) ground. Style #6562/2. Wholesaled for $1.50 per yd. (W. 30 in., L. 36 in.)
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1925
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T05124.000
accession number
87434
catalog number
T05124.000
Sample of waxed cotton cloth after red dye bath; step fourteen in the Javanese batik process, 1924. Approximately 10" x 12"; Design has a central butterfly motif surrounded by a plain field; with four concentric outer borders (floral, geometric, imitation fringe, solid).
Description
Sample of waxed cotton cloth after red dye bath; step fourteen in the Javanese batik process, 1924. Approximately 10" x 12"; Design has a central butterfly motif surrounded by a plain field; with four concentric outer borders (floral, geometric, imitation fringe, solid). This sample illustrates the result of the second (red) dye bath. The American Vice Consul in Charge in Surabaya, Java, Rollin R. Winslow, was given these samples in 1924 by Miss E.F. Kerston of a local curiousity shop/dealer in batik called Inlandsche Kunst. Winslow then sent the samples to the Dept. of State as part of his report on local commerce and dyes, expressing the wish that they be forwarded as a donation to the Smithsonian when the State Dept. no longer had a need for them.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca. 1924
ID Number
TE.T05232.000
catalog number
T05232.000
Length of printed "Indestructible Chiffon Voile" (Mallinson trade name), a sheer, plain weave, all silk fabric.
Description
Length of printed "Indestructible Chiffon Voile" (Mallinson trade name), a sheer, plain weave, all silk fabric. Printed with all over pattern "Trail of the Forty-Niners", one of the Mallinson 1929 "Early American Series." This design depicts panning gold on the Feather River, bench mining, placer mining, San Francisco and the bay, miners going to the gold fields, mountains and Lake Tahoe. Colorway: light greens, grays, peach, brown, black. Selvage width; selvage insciption.
Mallinson's 1929 "Early American" series of printed dress silks was based on historical events and figures that were perceived at the time to consitute a shared American story. It was the last of the company's line of designs based on American themes in which each design was printed in at least seven colors, in several colorways, on three or four different ground cloths. The stock market crash and economic depression that followed made the investment in this kind of design unprofitable.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1929
maker
H. R. Mallinson & Co. Inc.
ID Number
TE.T05944
accession number
104252
catalog number
T05944.000
Sample of waxed cotton cloth scraped for red dye bath (reverse); step eleven in the Javanese batik process, 1924.
Description
Sample of waxed cotton cloth scraped for red dye bath (reverse); step eleven in the Javanese batik process, 1924. Approximately 10" x 12"; Design has a central butterfly motif surrounded by a plain field; with four concentric outer borders (floral, geometric, imitation fringe, solid). This sample illustrates the results of scraping the wax off the areas to be dyed red (reverse) before the second (red) dye bath. The American Vice Consul in Charge in Surabaya, Java, Rollin R. Winslow, was given these samples in 1924 by Miss E.F. Kerston of a local curiousity shop/dealer in batik called Inlandsche Kunst. Winslow then sent the samples to the Dept. of State as part of his report on local commerce and dyes, expressing the wish that they be forwarded as a donation to the Smithsonian when the State Dept. no longer had a need for them.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca. 1924
ID Number
TE.T05229.000
catalog number
T05229.000
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1880-1920
ID Number
TE.T13080.00A
catalog number
T13080.00A
A length of a novelty printed silk, Mallinson trade name "Mandarin Crepe." This is a plain weave having a distinct cross thread .
Description
A length of a novelty printed silk, Mallinson trade name "Mandarin Crepe." This is a plain weave having a distinct cross thread . The design, which was hand block-printed, is titled "The Development of the Loom," and within reserves created by stylized modernist flowers sit three types of looms: hand loom, early power loom, jacquard loom - all captioned. Figures in period-appropriate dress also inhabit the reserves with the looms. The treatment is modernist, with bold lines, stylized flower forms, and a loose, painterly style of drawing and coloring. The captions and selvage inscription are in black in a freehand printed style. Designed by Martha Ryther for Mallinson.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1923
maker
H. R. Mallinson & Co. Inc.
ID Number
TE.T04590
accession number
70218
catalog number
T04590.000
Sample of waxed cotton cloth with blue dyed areas re-waxed (face); step twelve in the Javanese batik process, 1924.
Description
Sample of waxed cotton cloth with blue dyed areas re-waxed (face); step twelve in the Javanese batik process, 1924. Approximately 10" x 12"; Design has a central butterfly motif surrounded by a plain field; with four concentric outer borders (floral, geometric, imitation fringe, solid). This sample illustrates the rewaxing of the areas to remain blue (face) before the second (red) dye bath. The American Vice Consul in Charge in Surabaya, Java, Rollin R. Winslow, was given these samples in 1924 by Miss E.F. Kerston of a local curiousity shop/dealer in batik called Inlandsche Kunst. Winslow then sent the samples to the Dept. of State as part of his report on local commerce and dyes, expressing the wish that they be forwarded as a donation to the Smithsonian when the State Dept. no longer had a need for them.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca. 1924
ID Number
TE.T05230.000
catalog number
T05230.000
Sample of waxed cotton cloth with blue dyed areas re-waxed (reverse); step thirteen in the Javanese batik process, 1924.
Description
Sample of waxed cotton cloth with blue dyed areas re-waxed (reverse); step thirteen in the Javanese batik process, 1924. Approximately 10" x 12"; Design has a central butterfly motif surrounded by a plain field; with four concentric outer borders (floral, geometric, imitation fringe, solid). This sample illustrates the final rewaxing of the areas to remain blue before the second (red) dye bath. The American Vice Consul in Charge in Surabaya, Java, Rollin R. Winslow, was given these samples in 1924 by Miss E.F. Kerston of a local curiousity shop/dealer in batik called Inlandsche Kunst. Winslow then sent the samples to the Dept. of State as part of his report on local commerce and dyes, expressing the wish that they be forwarded as a donation to the Smithsonian when the State Dept. no longer had a need for them.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca. 1924
ID Number
TE.T05231.000
catalog number
T05231.000
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1870-1920
ID Number
TE.T14055.00A
catalog number
T14055.00A
accession number
270543
Weavers at the Pi Beta Phi Settlement House in Gatlinburg, Tennessee wove this blue and white, “Double Bow Knot” coverlet in 1927. The coverlet measures 96 inches by 76 inches and is constructed from two panels.
Description
Weavers at the Pi Beta Phi Settlement House in Gatlinburg, Tennessee wove this blue and white, “Double Bow Knot” coverlet in 1927. The coverlet measures 96 inches by 76 inches and is constructed from two panels. The Pi Beta Phi school was established in the late nineteenth century in Gatlinburg as part of the settlement school movement to help educate the rural population of Southern Appalachia and provide them with a marketable craft skill. The school was famous for its loomhouse. The craft school is still in operation today and known as Arrowmont. Pi Beta Phi Elementary is still educating the children of Gatlinburg, Tennessee as well. This coverlet belonged to Mrs. B.B. Moeur of Tempe Arizona. It is unclear if she was the weaver, but it is possible that while in the female fraternity she learned to weave at the school. The coverlet became part of the Smithsonian collection as part of the 50th Anniversary Pi Beta Phi exhibit and demonstration held in 1962.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
20th century
date made
1927
ID Number
TE.T12897
catalog number
T12897.000
accession number
242636
A length of printed "Klo-Ka" fabric from H.R. Mallinson's 1923 "Karnavar" series of dress fabrics. A double-woven fabric with two sets of warps and wefts.
Description
A length of printed "Klo-Ka" fabric from H.R. Mallinson's 1923 "Karnavar" series of dress fabrics. A double-woven fabric with two sets of warps and wefts. Wool forms a plain open weave fabric, and the ground upon which the raised geometric patterns are produced by interlacing with silk warp and weft. Allover printed design of Egyptian hieroglyphs and figures of Egyptian tradespeople, as on a wall painting in an Ancient Egyptian tomb. 6 colors Trade name for this double weave fabrication by Mallinson was "Klo-Ka", from the French term cloque. "Karnavar" was the series name, named by combining the Temple of Karnak with the sponsor of the excavation that discovered Tutankhamen's tomb, Lord Carnavon. HR Mallinson was in Egypt when Tut's tomb was opened, and visited the site by invitation. He wrote a lengthy telegram back to his firm, which was published in the NY Times and helped set off the Tutmania craze for Egyptian motifs.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1923
maker
H. R. Mallinson & Co. Inc.
ID Number
TE.T04591
accession number
70218
catalog number
T04591.000

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