Textiles

The 50,000 objects in the textile collections fall into two main categories: raw fibers, yarns, and fabrics, and machines, tools, and other textile technology. Shawls, coverlets, samplers, laces, linens, synthetics, and other fabrics are part of the first group, along with the 400 quilts in the National Quilt Collection. Some of the Museum's most popular artifacts, such as the Star-Spangled Banner and the gowns of the first ladies, have an obvious textile connection.

The machinery and tools include spinning wheels, sewing machines, thimbles, needlework tools, looms, and an invention that changed the course of American agriculture and society. A model of Eli Whitney's cotton gin, made by the inventor in the early 1800s, shows the workings of a machine that helped make cotton plantations profitable in the South and encouraged the spread of slavery.

This Jacquard double-cloth coverlet was donated as "a pair of drapes." Colonial Revival décor favored antique coverlet portieres. It is thought to have been woven in Ohio in the 1830s and is inscribed with the initials "J.W." in each corner.
Description
This Jacquard double-cloth coverlet was donated as "a pair of drapes." Colonial Revival décor favored antique coverlet portieres. It is thought to have been woven in Ohio in the 1830s and is inscribed with the initials "J.W." in each corner. Each of the two sections of the coverlet is 88 inches long, and 36 inches wide. The structure is composed of two sets of warps and wefts made up of 3-ply, S-twist, Z-spun white cotton and 2-ply, S-twist, Z-spun madder red and indigo-dyed wool. The centerfield pattern consists of meandering floral straight repeat, creating columns of flowers that change direction at the center due to the coverlet’s two-panel construction. The weaver’s masterful understanding of color led him to change colors both the warp and weft allowing flowers to change color and utilizing half-tones when necessary. A running flower and leaf border frames the entire coverlet with the initials interwoven at the corners in lieu of a traditional corner block.
Jane Caughey (1795-1874), the donor's great grandmother, passed the coverlet down through the generations. Jane and her husband, William (b. 1781) were both born and married in Pennsylvania but lived most of their lives in New Concord, Muskingum County, Ohio. Jane and William’s first child, Rebecca Caughey Martin, was born in Pennsylvania in 1821. The first child born in Ohio, William, was born in 1832.
This coverlet was woven using a Jacquard head, which wasn't readily available in the US until after 1820. These looms and the Figured and Fancy coverlets woven on them were almost always operated by male, professional weavers. The donor's claim that her great-grandmother wove this coverlet is almost certainly false, but the claim that she raised the sheep and prepared the wool used to make it are likely accurate. Coverlet weavers often advertised that they were taking orders and would provide the cotton yarns needed and any dying, if the customer supplied the spun wool yarns.
This coverlet was probably woven by an Irish-born weaver named William Lunn (c. 1787-c. 1855). William and his wife Hannah immigrated to Pennsylvania sometime before 1820, as their son George was born in Pennsylvania in 1825-26. He first appears in Muskingum County, Ohio in the 1840 census, and both he and his son are listed as weavers in the 1850 census. William dies sometime in the 1850s, and his wife Hannah appears living with her son George who is recorded as a farmer in the 1860 Federal Census. The choice of both centerfield and border floral designs match those that appear on signed Lunn coverlets and the time frame and geography also lineup, suggesting that William Lunn wove this coverlet in the 1830s-1840s.
The appearance of the "JW" initials found in the corners of the coverlet are a mystery. There is no one in that belongs to or marries into the Caughey family with initials that match. It is possible that Jane and William Caughey purchased this coverlet at a public vendue or bought a readymade coverlet for which another client had failed to pay. The association with Lunn makes this the only the eighth attributed William Lunn coverlet.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
19th century
1820-1840
1830-1840
ID Number
TE.T13519
catalog number
T13519.000
accession number
254763
The weaver of this overshot, “Double Bowknot” or “Big Leaf” pattern is unknown, but she was a master weaver.
Description
The weaver of this overshot, “Double Bowknot” or “Big Leaf” pattern is unknown, but she was a master weaver. Using olive green and pokeberry dyed Z-spun wool singles and white 2-ply, S-twist, Z-spun cotton, she was able to use the different colored supplementary pattern weft to create a vibrant two-panel coverlet. The coverlet measures 99 inches by 80 inches, and has self-fringe on three sides. This coverlet is in excellent overall condition. The “Double Bowknot” pattern, as with all coverlet patterns, has many names that very based on location and time. This pattern is also known as “Muscadine Hulls” in the Southern United States.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
19th century
ID Number
TE.T13000
catalog number
T13000.000
accession number
249079
One of three Fragments from overshot coverlet in Double Bow Knot pattern; red and navy, dull goldCurrently not on view
Description
One of three Fragments from overshot coverlet in Double Bow Knot pattern; red and navy, dull gold
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
19th century
maker
unknown
ID Number
1980.0372.01
accession number
1980.0372
catalog number
1980.0372.01
accession number
216659
This blue and white, Summer-and-Winter coverlet features a block woven, geometric design throughout based on variations of “Snowball” and “Rose and Star” patterns. The coverlet has a “Pine Tree” variation border on three sides.
Description
This blue and white, Summer-and-Winter coverlet features a block woven, geometric design throughout based on variations of “Snowball” and “Rose and Star” patterns. The coverlet has a “Pine Tree” variation border on three sides. The border designs on geometric, block-woven coverlets are created from fractional reductions of the block pattern motifs. This coverlet uses two different block pattern designs. The block pattern repeat measures 5 inches by 5 inches. There is a relatively long, knotted applied fringe on two sides of coverlet. It is believed this fringe was added much later. One edge is unfinished, the other is hand hemmed. The coverlet was woven in two pieces and seamed up the middle with whip stitch. There is no information about who may have made this coverlet or where is originally was used. These patterns and style of coverlet could be found all along the East Coast and were woven by English, German, and Scots-Irish settlers. This coverlet was likely woven anytime between the years, 1790-1830 because of the use of mill-spun cotton yarn in the warp and weft.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
19th century
date made
c. 1790-1830
ID Number
1980.0376.01
accession number
1980.0376
catalog number
1980.0376.01
This red and white, reverse twill coverlet likely comes from the New Market, Maryland area. The weaver used reverse twill to create a block pattern. The coverlet was constructed from two sections woven as one length, cut, and seamed together.
Description
This red and white, reverse twill coverlet likely comes from the New Market, Maryland area. The weaver used reverse twill to create a block pattern. The coverlet was constructed from two sections woven as one length, cut, and seamed together. The pattern block is formed by the use of herringbone left to right twill as well as a diamond twill square. The pattern repeat measures five and a half inches by five and three-eighths inches. The coverlet is well matched at the seam. There is some loss and the overall condition is fair to poor.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
19th Century
ID Number
TE.T18025
catalog number
T18025.000
accession number
321786
This Jacquard, Biederwand coverlet features a large scalloped central medallion with basket-weave centerfield and eagle, "Washington," inscriptions and portraits in each corner. There are stylized floral borders along the top and sides.
Description
This Jacquard, Biederwand coverlet features a large scalloped central medallion with basket-weave centerfield and eagle, "Washington," inscriptions and portraits in each corner. There are stylized floral borders along the top and sides. Horizontal color banding in fuchsia, teal, peach and yellow wool singles create the pattern, and thick and thin cotton warps and wefts form an integrated ground structure. The design, arrangement of motifs, and color choices likely date this coverlet to 1875-1900, particularly during the time of the 1876 Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia. The synthetic colors, sparse use of wool, design, and commemorative theme lead us to believe this coverlet is an early Colonial Revival coverlet made popular by the 1876 Centennial. The wool is wearing away in places leaving slack in the fine cotton warp threads. There is no center seam and the weaving is extremely even suggesting that this coverlet woven in a mill on a power loom rather than by a craftsperson in a workshop. The Centennial Exposition was an important time in the history of the coverlet. The exhibitions featured pattern books and antique coverlets sparking a revival in both the figured Jacquard coverlets and the older geometric and overshot designs. This exhibition helped inspire both the Colonial Revival trend, which we still live with today and the Craft Revival which breathed new life into American hand-weaving and craft production. This coverlet is in fair condition. There is some wear to the wool yarns, which are very loosely spun and the rolled hems at the top and bottom edges are coming undone. Because this coverlet is both unsigned and undated it makes it almost impossible to assign a manufacturer or precise date.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1875-1900
ID Number
TE.T13348
catalog number
T13348.000
accession number
252487
This is a blue and white, plain weave double coverlet executed in geometric block weave pattern. The pattern is most commonly known as “Whig Rose.” There is a "Pine Tree" border along three sides created from a fractional reduction and lengthening of the main pattern.
Description
This is a blue and white, plain weave double coverlet executed in geometric block weave pattern. The pattern is most commonly known as “Whig Rose.” There is a "Pine Tree" border along three sides created from a fractional reduction and lengthening of the main pattern. The weaver used natural colored linen with olive green and indigo (blue) colored wool. The coverlet measures 82 inches by 79 inches. The coverlet is constructed of two panels each 34.5 inches wide. The weaver would have woven both panels as one length, cut that length in half, and sewn the panels together to create the finished width. There is a five inch long woven fringe with a half inch heading applied to the sides of coverlet, and there is a five inch self-fringe along the lower edge. The coverlet was initially purchased in Huntington Valley, Pennsylvania and it is likely that it was woven in Pennsylvania sometime during the first half of the nineteenth century.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1790-1815
late 18th century
early 19th century
1800-1850
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T18271
catalog number
T18271.000
accession number
1977.0107
This is a blue and white, cotton and wool, overshot coverlet from the 19th century. The patterns used is similar to both “Governor’s Garden” and “Double Chariot Wheels.” The upper edge is hemmed, the lower edge has a warp fringe, and the remaining two sides have applied fringe.
Description
This is a blue and white, cotton and wool, overshot coverlet from the 19th century. The patterns used is similar to both “Governor’s Garden” and “Double Chariot Wheels.” The upper edge is hemmed, the lower edge has a warp fringe, and the remaining two sides have applied fringe. There is a border along three sides created from a fractional reduction of the main pattern. There coverlet measures 100 inches by 72 inches and was constructed from three panels which were woven as one length, cut, and seamed together to create the finished coverlet width. There is little provenance on this coverlet’s origins, but based on the design and construction, this coverlet was likely domestically produced by a woman or group of women sometime in the first half of the nineteenth century.
date made
19th century
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T17390
accession number
321804.210
This overshot, indigo and white coverlet (now separated into two panels) is woven in the "Catalpa Flower" pattern. Overshot patterning is based on a float weave structure, where a supplementary weft yarn is added to create the pattern.
Description
This overshot, indigo and white coverlet (now separated into two panels) is woven in the "Catalpa Flower" pattern. Overshot patterning is based on a float weave structure, where a supplementary weft yarn is added to create the pattern. The yarn floats or shoots over the top of the plain weave ground cloth creating the pattern. The pattern is a reversible negative, meaning that the color combination is reversed on the opposite side. Overshot coverlets can be woven on simple four-shaft looms. They are usually associated with domestic production and many of them are attributed to female weavers. Professional male weavers also wove floatwork coverlets. Many overshot patterns have names; however, these names changed and varied due to time and location. According to the donor, this coverlet descended through the Van Meter family of New York and was likely woven in the first half of the nineteenth century by a female ancestor. The two coverlet panels would have been joined with a center seam. These panels were repurposed during the early 20th century Colonial Revival decorating period and used as portieres in the Van Meter home. Each of the two panels measures 75 inches by 35.25 inches.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
19th century
date made
1800-1850
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T14960A
catalog number
T14960.00S
T14960.A-S
accession number
286274
catalog number
T14960-B/S
Overshot wool and cotton coverlet in black (oxidized indigo?) and natural. Small-scale geometric pattern of opposing meanders and flower heads. Two panels, stitched together. No borders. Unknown maker.Currently not on view
Description
Overshot wool and cotton coverlet in black (oxidized indigo?) and natural. Small-scale geometric pattern of opposing meanders and flower heads. Two panels, stitched together. No borders. Unknown maker.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
19th century
maker
unknown
ID Number
1979.0725.059
accession number
1979.0725
catalog number
1979.0725.0059.000
This white and blue, geometric, double-cloth coverlet panel features a “Single Snowball” pattern centerfield and “Pine Tree” border.
Description
This white and blue, geometric, double-cloth coverlet panel features a “Single Snowball” pattern centerfield and “Pine Tree” border. These patterns were developed in the German States of the Holy Roman Empire at the end of the seventeenth century and were initially used in damask linen weaving on a much smaller scale. Several German weavers published books during the Early Modern period, and they were translated into numerous languages and this style of block weaving, as it is known, spread across Europe. Immigrant weavers brought these structures and pattern to the United States, increased the scale of the patterns and wove them as double cloth both for coverlets and ingrain carpet. This coverlet panel was initially woven as one length, cut, folded back on itself, and seamed up the middle to create the finished coverlet. The center seam was usually removed to wash coverlets as the double cloth would have been heavy and unwieldly when wet otherwise. The coverlet panel measures 84.5 inches by 34.5 inches, and there are traces of self-fringe along the bottom edge. The upper edge has been repaired with a blue printed cotton band to prevent unraveling. This coverlet panel is in overall poor shape and features several areas of loss. The “Pine Tree” borders found along three sides were created from fractional reduction of the main block patterning. While women were fully capable of weaving overshot and summer and winter coverlets on their own simple looms, many of the geometric double loom patterns required looms with multiple shafts and are traditionally associated with male, professional weavers. There is no information about who may have woven this coverlet or where it may have come from.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
19th century
maker
unknown
ID Number
1979.0725.066
accession number
1979.0725
catalog number
1979.0725.66
Philip H. Anshutz (b. 1802) wove this blue and white, Figured and Fancy, double-cloth coverlet in Carrollton, Carroll County, Ohio sometime after 1845.
Description
Philip H. Anshutz (b. 1802) wove this blue and white, Figured and Fancy, double-cloth coverlet in Carrollton, Carroll County, Ohio sometime after 1845. This coverlet measures 81 inches by 75 inches and was woven as one length, cut into two pieces, and hand sewn together to create the width. There is a self-fringe along three sides of the coverlet. The pattern consists of eight whole, large floral wreaths, with eight half wreaths along the sides. Filling in the spaces between wreaths are two floral groups. The elaborate centerfield pattern suggests that Anshutz was very skilled at pattern design and likely producing coverlets in a semi-industrial fashion. The corners of the lower edge have woven inscriptions which read, "xPxH ANHUTZ YN Carrol-ton.” The white yarns are 2-ply s-twist z-spun cotton, and the blue yarns are 2-ply s-twist z-spun wool. The binding is white 2-ply s-twist z-spun wool. The sewing thread 6-ply s-twist z-spun cotton. The yarn count is 22 warp x 20 weft per inch. The top edge is bound in a bias binding and stitched by hand. Philip Anshutz was born in 1802 in Germany and emigrated to Baltimore about 1833. In the 1840 census he was listed as the head of a household in Baltimore engaged in manufactures and trades—likely in one of Baltimore’s large industrial textile mills. He left Baltimore in 1842 with his wife, whose name we only know as the initial W., and moved to Carrollton, Carroll, Co, Ohio. In the 1850 Federal Census, Anshutz was listed as a weaver. It is likely that Anshutz came to American as a trained, industrial weaver or machinist in a factory, worked in Baltimore long enough to raise the capital needed to move west and attempt to establish his own regional mill in Carroll County. This was a common practice for coverlet weavers.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
mid-19th century
mid-19th century ?
c. 1845
weaver
Anshutz, Philip
ID Number
1989.0270.001
accession number
1989.0270
catalog number
1989.0270.01
Woven cotton foundations in letter shapes to be placed on fabric and embroidered over with silk floss in order to give the initials definition and dimensionality. One package with 2 cursive Gs and one package with one gothic C; in wax paper packaging under Reis' Tex brand name.
Description
Woven cotton foundations in letter shapes to be placed on fabric and embroidered over with silk floss in order to give the initials definition and dimensionality. One package with 2 cursive Gs and one package with one gothic C; in wax paper packaging under Reis' Tex brand name. Made by G. Reis & Bro., Inc. New York. Retail sticker label from John Daniell & Sons, Broadway New York; with handwritten prices ".10 ea." ".06" Needlework was an important skill and a popular leisure activity. These foundation shapes for letters enabled even amatuer stitchers to include initials or words and phrases with uniform sizing and style in their work.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca. 1900
ID Number
TE.T15472.56
accession number
293999
catalog number
T15472
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
3rd quarter, 19th century
ID Number
TE.T11790
catalog number
T11790.000
accession number
198210
Printed lace pattern, named Pattern No. 1. Sold by Sara Hadley, New York. Only the dots are printed, not the little numbers indicating the sequence of working the pattern. The pattern has not been used.Currently not on view
Description (Brief)
Printed lace pattern, named Pattern No. 1. Sold by Sara Hadley, New York. Only the dots are printed, not the little numbers indicating the sequence of working the pattern. The pattern has not been used.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1903
ID Number
2016.0048.09A
accession number
2016.0048
catalog number
2016.0048.09A
Darned filet lace flounce in 17th or 18th Century style, but probably made during 19th C. Unusual straight netting. Finished on all sides.Currently not on view
Description (Brief)
Darned filet lace flounce in 17th or 18th Century style, but probably made during 19th C. Unusual straight netting. Finished on all sides.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
early 19th century
Associated Name
Pinchot, Mary Eno
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.L6510
catalog number
L6510.000
accession number
48717
113420
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
end of 19th century
ID Number
TE.T11840F
catalog number
T11840.00F
accession number
198210
Brussels Muslin Applique cape with lappets. Ruffles at neck edge and two at lower edge. White machine made net with fine muslin floral design applied with chain stitches to the net.Currently not on view
Description (Brief)
Brussels Muslin Applique cape with lappets. Ruffles at neck edge and two at lower edge. White machine made net with fine muslin floral design applied with chain stitches to the net.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca. 1900
ID Number
TE.E372201.000
catalog number
E372201.000
accession number
131392
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1850-1900
ID Number
TE.T13758B
catalog number
T13758B
accession number
262265
This coverlet features horizontal color banding in stripes of red, green, muted aqua, and muted purple. A large scalloped floral medallion dominates the centerfield design. The four corners have faces of Washington flanked by confronted horses.
Description
This coverlet features horizontal color banding in stripes of red, green, muted aqua, and muted purple. A large scalloped floral medallion dominates the centerfield design. The four corners have faces of Washington flanked by confronted horses. Below Washington’s portrait bust is a banderole with his name. Under this is an eagle in flight with a banderole in its beak proclaiming, “Hail 1869,” and beneath that, tucked into each corner is a steamboat flying the American flag. In the middle of the border designs is an onion-domed rendition of the Capitol Building. Factory produced coverlet. Floral scrollwork and birds unite the border design. Although this coverlet is unsigned, it is identical to one signed by Philip Schum’s Lancaster Carpet, Coverlet, Quilt, and Yarn Manufactory. This coverlet measures 88 inches by 73 inches and has no center seam. It was likely produced on a power loom with a Jacquard attachment.
Philip Schum (1814-1880) was born In Hesse-Darmstadt, Holy Roman Empire. He immigrated to New York, moving to Lancaster County, PA in approximately 1844. He was not trained as a weaver and there is no evidence that he ever was. What we do know is that Philip Schum was a savvy businessman. He worked first as a "Malt Tramper" in New York, a position presumably linked to brewing and malting of grains. After six months, Philip was able to afford to bring his first wife Ana Margartha Bond (1820-1875) to join him in Pennsylvania. Once reunited, Philip worked as a day laborer, shoemaker, and basket-maker. He purchased a small general store in Lancaster City in 1852. By 1856, he has built his business enough to sell at a profit and purchase the Lancaster Carpet, Coverlet, Quilt, and Yarn Manufactory. Philip's first wife, Anna, passed away sometime before 1879, because in this year, Philip married his second wife, Anna Margaret Koch (1834-1880). The two were tragically killed in a train accident in 1880, when a locomotive stuck their horse and buggy. The New Era, a local Lancaster newspaper titled the article about the incident with the headline, "Death's Harvest." Lancaster Carpet, Coverlet, Quilt, and Yarn Manufactory began with just one or two looms and four men. It grew to four looms and eight men quickly. By 1875, the factory had twenty looms and employed forty men. Philip Schum was no weaver. He was an entrepreneur and businessman who invested in the growing market for household textiles. Philip's estate inventory included a carpet shop, weaving shop, dye house, two stores, and a coal yard. At the time of his death were also listed 390 "Half-wool coverlets." These were valued at $920. In 1878, Philip partnered with his son, John E. Schum to form, Philip Schum, Son, and Co. Another Schum coverlet is in the collections of the MFA-Houston.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
19th century
date made
second half 19th century
1869
maker
Schum, Philip
ID Number
1997.0375.01
accession number
1997.0375
A sample book of machine-made lace, French, 2nd half 19th century. From: J. Gaillard, Pere et Fils. Saint-Pierre-lez-Calais, France. Blue cloth covered volume, 19.25” L x 12” W x ¾” D; Embossed gold lettering and border on front cover.
Description
A sample book of machine-made lace, French, 2nd half 19th century. From: J. Gaillard, Pere et Fils. Saint-Pierre-lez-Calais, France. Blue cloth covered volume, 19.25” L x 12” W x ¾” D; Embossed gold lettering and border on front cover. Interior of 26 blue paper leaves with pasted in samples of machine-made lace in various styles, sizes, mostly black or white. More than one sample per page; each paper leaf has samples on both sides. Each sample has a small paper tag in the upper right corner with a style number and price per yard. Exquisite examples of Leavers-machine made lace trimmings for apparel and furnishing uses. The U.S. Leavers lace industry grew after the tariff on imported Leavers machines was removed for several months by the Payne-Aldrich Tariff of 1909.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1850-1899
1850-1900
ID Number
2015.0324.01
accession number
2015.0324
catalog number
2015.0324.01
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
19th C
ID Number
TE.T14324
catalog number
T14324.000
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
3rd quarter, 19th century
end of 19th century
ID Number
TE.T11843
catalog number
T11843.000
accession number
198210
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
19th Century
ID Number
TE.E317272
catalog number
E317272.000

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