Textiles

The 50,000 objects in the textile collections fall into two main categories: raw fibers, yarns, and fabrics, and machines, tools, and other textile technology. Shawls, coverlets, samplers, laces, linens, synthetics, and other fabrics are part of the first group, along with the 400 quilts in the National Quilt Collection. Some of the Museum's most popular artifacts, such as the Star-Spangled Banner and the gowns of the first ladies, have an obvious textile connection.

The machinery and tools include spinning wheels, sewing machines, thimbles, needlework tools, looms, and an invention that changed the course of American agriculture and society. A model of Eli Whitney's cotton gin, made by the inventor in the early 1800s, shows the workings of a machine that helped make cotton plantations profitable in the South and encouraged the spread of slavery.

Length of batik (wax-resist-dyed) fabric, extraordinary non-repeating design of domesticated and wild animals, birds, insects, reptiles, human figures, and flowers in multi-colors on an off white, plain weave cotton ground, patterned with scrolling stems and small comma-like mark
Description
Length of batik (wax-resist-dyed) fabric, extraordinary non-repeating design of domesticated and wild animals, birds, insects, reptiles, human figures, and flowers in multi-colors on an off white, plain weave cotton ground, patterned with scrolling stems and small comma-like marks. Figures not to one scale. There is a building depicted in the center, and many of the figures are shown in pairs, possibly male and female. Noah's Ark depiction? Or another myth? Java, Indonesia; 1900-1950. 97.5" L x 41.5" wide. Selvage width panel. Tjanting batik, with the wax drawn by hand. One of three batiks with very different patterning given by the same donor, and numbered as .00A, .00B, and .00C. One of a group of five Indonesian textiles given by the donor.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1900-1950
ID Number
TE.T18487.00C
catalog number
T18487.00C
accession number
1978.0620
In the 20th century, women’s hobbies included embroidery techniques such as needlepoint and crewel.This very large and impressive embroidered wall hanging depicts “The Legend of Czar Saltan.” The czar sits in an elaborately decorated wooden chair.
Description
In the 20th century, women’s hobbies included embroidery techniques such as needlepoint and crewel.
This very large and impressive embroidered wall hanging depicts “The Legend of Czar Saltan.” The czar sits in an elaborately decorated wooden chair. He wears a jeweled crown on his silvery hair, and his long flowing silvery beard covers a part of an elaborately embroidered robe. This scene is on a balcony overlooking a walled village with onion-domed buildings, some with crosses on top, a lake with an island, and mountains beyond. Across the top of the picture are clouds, and the initials “e b r 1951-53" are embroidered near the right lower corner. The ground is linen twill and the threads are silk floss, wool, and metallic. The stitches are split, satin, long and short, outline, stem, laid and couched, wrapped loop, brick, seed, closed fly, French knots, chain, buttonhole, and herringbone. Glass and plastic jewels are also used.
LEGEND OF CZAR SALTAN
The legend is a well-known Russian fairy tale, and is the same story on which Pushkin based a dramatic poem used in turn by Rimsky-Korsakov for his Le Coq d'Or Suite. (The Golden Cockerel Suite.) In some versions, Czar Saltan is called King Dodon, but in all accounts he was given the Golden Cockerel by his Royal Astrologer. The Czar set the cockerel up in the palace as a weather vane. When danger approached, the cockerel warned the Czar by crowing. Apparently the cockerel does give advance warning of impending danger on several occasions, and eventually the Astrologer claims his payment. Some versions of the legend say that the Czar's wife was promised to the Astrologer, while others say that it was his daughter. In any case, the Czar refused to make good on his promise and when the astrologer demanded his fee, the Czar struck him with his scepter and killed him. At this point, the Golden Cockerel flew down from his perch and pierced the Czar's skull with his beak, killing him.
The wall hanging was worked on a roller embroidery frame built by Cornelius Van S. Roosevelt, son of Eleanor and Theodore Roosevelt II. Cornelius drew the design on the linen in 1937. It took Mrs. Roosevelt many years to assemble all the materials and she didn't begin working on it until 1951. It was during the long interval between 1937 and 1951 that R. H. Macy & Co., in New York, helped run tests on the various metallic threads to see if they would tarnish. Over a period of many years, Mrs. Roosevelt determined which wools and silks were color fast, and these she used to stitch this piece and a companion one.
Eleanor Butler Alexander was born on December 26, 1888, to Henry and Grace Green Alexander in New York city. She married Theodore Roosevelt II (1887-1944) on 20 June 1910, and they had four children: Grace, Theodore III, Cornelius V. S. and Quentin. She died on May 29, 1960, at Oyster Bay, Long Island, New York.
date made
1951-1953
maker
Roosevelt, Eleanor Butler Alexander
ID Number
1990.0656.01
catalog number
1990.0656.01
accession number
1990.0656
Cheney Brothers furnishing fabric, 1900-ca.1950. Selvage width sample of upholstery fabric woven with orange and green stripes. The green stripes are decorated with woven floral designs, 2 selvedges present, 2 edges finished with overcast stitching.
Description (Brief)
Cheney Brothers furnishing fabric, 1900-ca.1950. Selvage width sample of upholstery fabric woven with orange and green stripes. The green stripes are decorated with woven floral designs, 2 selvedges present, 2 edges finished with overcast stitching. Cheney Brothers CB logo is embroidered on one finished edge. (W. 52 in., L. 25 7/8)
Date made
20th century
date made
1900-1950
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
2006.0129.02
accession number
2006.0129
Cheney Brothers furnishing silk, 1900-ca.1950. Selvage width length of upholstery fabric; cream colored background with scattered woven-in sprays and sprigs of red and blue flowers with green leaves and stems tied with red ribbons.
Description (Brief)
Cheney Brothers furnishing silk, 1900-ca.1950. Selvage width length of upholstery fabric; cream colored background with scattered woven-in sprays and sprigs of red and blue flowers with green leaves and stems tied with red ribbons. The Cheney symbol is woven in in gold along selvage edge. (W. 40.5 in., L. 49 in.)
Date made
20th century
date made
1900-1950
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
2006.0129.01
accession number
2006.0129
Sample cut of of Cheney Brothers bi-color silk furnishing damask. Reversible damask with red and gold woven floral design, 2 selvedges present. Design is a large-scale reproduction of Renaissance floral ogee pattern. Woven with gold and red dual wefts and red warp.
Description (Brief)
Sample cut of of Cheney Brothers bi-color silk furnishing damask. Reversible damask with red and gold woven floral design, 2 selvedges present. Design is a large-scale reproduction of Renaissance floral ogee pattern. Woven with gold and red dual wefts and red warp. Red figures on gold ground. Cheney Brothers CB logo is woven into the cut edge. (W. 49 in., L. 48 3/4 in.)
Date made
20th century
date made
1900-1950
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
2006.0129.03
accession number
2006.0129
Part of a Pullman porter's job was to make up the sleeping berths in his assigned sleeping car, and to provide extra blankets to passengers requesting them. The standard Pullman blanket in the 20th century was dyed a salmon color, which became almost a trademark of the company.
Description
Part of a Pullman porter's job was to make up the sleeping berths in his assigned sleeping car, and to provide extra blankets to passengers requesting them. The standard Pullman blanket in the 20th century was dyed a salmon color, which became almost a trademark of the company. When a blanket became worn or damaged in service, it was assigned to those blankets reserved for porters' use.
This wool blanket, made in 1910, was used by African American railroad porters. According to Pullman service rules, a porter's blanket was never to be given to a passenger. Ostensibly to avoid mixing these with the passengers' blankets, the porters' blankets were dyed blue. This was to comply with statutes in the South that dealt with the segregation of blacks and whites. The Pullman service rules were applied nationwide throughout the Pullman system, not just in the South. Dyeing the blanket blue made it easy to tell which blankets were used by passengers and which blankets were used by the African American porters and attendants. A dyed-blue Pullman blanket is today extremely rare, given its negative racial symbolism.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1910
user
Pullman Palace Car Company
ID Number
1986.0133.01
accession number
1986.0133
catalog number
1986.0133.01
86.0133.01
Length of batik (wax-resist-dyed) fabric, design of alternating light and dark geometric patterned diagonal stripes, in purplish-blue, green, gold, light brown, and off white. Plain weave cotton ground. Java, Indonesia; 1900-1950. 92.25" L x 41.137" wide. Selvage width panel.
Description
Length of batik (wax-resist-dyed) fabric, design of alternating light and dark geometric patterned diagonal stripes, in purplish-blue, green, gold, light brown, and off white. Plain weave cotton ground. Java, Indonesia; 1900-1950. 92.25" L x 41.137" wide. Selvage width panel. Probably a block batik, with the wax printed by hand with a block, rather than drawn with a tjanting, as the pattern is so repetitive. One of three batiks with very different patterning given by the same donor, and numbered as .00A, .00B, and .00C. Donor also gave two Indonesian ikats.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1900-1950
ID Number
TE.T18487.00B
catalog number
T18487.00B
accession number
1978.0620
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1900-1950
ID Number
TE.T12682
catalog number
T12682.000
accession number
236885
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1900-1950
ID Number
TE.T18487.00A
catalog number
T18487.00A
accession number
1978.0620
Quilted in Ohio in the first half of the twentieth century, this is a Mennonite or possibly Amish version of the “Sawtoothed Bars” pattern. It is two-toned, made of plain-woven red and green cottons.
Description
Quilted in Ohio in the first half of the twentieth century, this is a Mennonite or possibly Amish version of the “Sawtoothed Bars” pattern. It is two-toned, made of plain-woven red and green cottons. Outline quilting was done on the sawtooth triangles, and all other areas were quilted in a diagonal grid with grey-green cotton thread.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1900-1950
quilter
unknown
ID Number
1985.0029.02
catalog number
1985.0029.02
accession number
1985.0029
Quilted in Topeka, Indiana, in the first half of the twentieth century, this is an example of the pattern referred to as “Path through the Woods.” Made of cottons, mainly solid colored tan and red, the blocks are framed by a 2¼-inch red inner border and a 6½-inch tan outer border
Description
Quilted in Topeka, Indiana, in the first half of the twentieth century, this is an example of the pattern referred to as “Path through the Woods.” Made of cottons, mainly solid colored tan and red, the blocks are framed by a 2¼-inch red inner border and a 6½-inch tan outer border. The quilt has a blue binding. It is both hand- and machine-pieced; the blocks are joined with machine stitching. An 8-pointed star is quilted in the center of each block. This is an instance of Amish quilting done outside of traditional Pennsylvania areas.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1900-1950
quilter
unknown
ID Number
1985.0029.03
catalog number
1985.0029.03
accession number
1985.0029
Life on America's farms in the 1920s and 1930s meant hard work and frugal habits. Farm families were used to "making do" with what they had, wasting nothing that could be recycled or reused.
Description
Life on America's farms in the 1920s and 1930s meant hard work and frugal habits. Farm families were used to "making do" with what they had, wasting nothing that could be recycled or reused. With feed sacks and flour bags, farmwomen took thriftiness to new heights of creativity, transforming the humble bags into dresses, underwear, towels, curtains, quilts, and other household necessities.
By the 1940s the bag manufacturers were turning out bags in bright colors and printed designs. It was felt that these designs and colors would boost sales, because the woman of the house would always select the brand with the most attractive fabric. During World War II, there was a shortage of cotton fabric for the civilian population, and the recycling of bags became a necessity, encouraged by the government.
After the war, the bags were not only a sign of domestic thrift; they also gave rural women a sense of fashion. National sewing contests were organized as a way for women to show off their skills, and manufacturers to show off their designs. Women frequently sold their surplus bags to others as a way of picking up cash to aid in running the home.
This dress was made by Mrs. G. R. (Dorothy) Overall of Caldwell, Kansas, in 1959 for the Cotton Bag Sewing Contest sponsored by the National Cotton Council and the Textile Bag Manufactureres Association. The dress is made of cotton bag fabric, with an overall design of white flowers on a brown (originally black) ground. The dress is lined with black organdy, and machine quilted with a synthetic silver sewing thread. Mrs. Overall was awarded 2nd place in the Mid-South section of the contest.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1959
maker
Overall, Mrs. Dorothy
ID Number
1992.0102.04
catalog number
1992.0102.04
accession number
1992.0102
Eight pointed pieced work star from a quilt. Pieced of fabric from tobacco pouches; twill weave cotton, printed in blue-green trade mark that includes a picture of a building. A few pieces have something printed in red instead of building.Currently not on view
Description (Brief)
Eight pointed pieced work star from a quilt. Pieced of fabric from tobacco pouches; twill weave cotton, printed in blue-green trade mark that includes a picture of a building. A few pieces have something printed in red instead of building.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1875 - 1950
maker
unknown
ID Number
1991.0382.10.2
catalog number
1991.0382.10.2
accession number
1991.0382
Warm-up Jacket; William Skinner and Sons Sunbak fabric; 1951. Gold and Blue Warm-up Jacket made of trademark Skinner Sunbak viscose rayon satin face with self reverse wool back short pile.
Description
Warm-up Jacket; William Skinner and Sons Sunbak fabric; 1951. Gold and Blue Warm-up Jacket made of trademark Skinner Sunbak viscose rayon satin face with self reverse wool back short pile. Fabric made in Holyoke, MA in 1951.
Varsity-like gold athletic jacket with darker gold wool interior lining. Dark gold stretch wool knit band with dark blue stripes at waist, collar, and wrists. Metal zipper center front made by Talon. Dark stains right center front and on right zipper placket and throughout bottom back. Some holes and pilling on wool stretch fabric. Dotted marks on right sleeve near hem. Fiber content by wieght: 65% rayon and 35% wool. 100% vrigin wool nap and Genuine Skinner lining. Machine stitched and interior seams serged. Flat-felled seams at side seams, shoulder, armscye. Welt pockets on center front left and right. See TE.T09675.000 for fabric length of the Sunbak.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1951
maker
William Skinner and Sons
ID Number
TE.T10985.000
catalog number
T10985.000
U.S. Air Force hat; Wm. Skinner & Sons' Sunbak fabric and fur; 1951. Blue viscose rayon and wool back Sunbak and fur; Holyoke, MA.Dark blue fur hat with lining and face made wtih trademark Skinner Sunbak viscose rayon with wool back faille.
Description
U.S. Air Force hat; Wm. Skinner & Sons' Sunbak fabric and fur; 1951. Blue viscose rayon and wool back Sunbak and fur; Holyoke, MA.
Dark blue fur hat with lining and face made wtih trademark Skinner Sunbak viscose rayon with wool back faille. Color is "Air Force Blue." Strap at top of head with two rivet snaps on each side with a fur piece in center of strap. Hat is made of 3 panels of fur that is bagged out with the rayon. The center front panel is stitched to the body of the hat, the other two are connected via the strap and wrap around the center back. Interior and exterior is made of four panels of the rayon. Small tacking stitches on lining to connect the interior and exterior pieces together at the top point of the hat. It is machine stitched.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1951
maker
William Skinner and Sons
ID Number
TE.T10983.000
catalog number
T10983.000
This padded and quilted blue satin square, produced by William Skinner and Sons, was probably a sales model used at their New York City store. The sample is padded and hand quilted in a 2¾-inch grid pattern.
Description
This padded and quilted blue satin square, produced by William Skinner and Sons, was probably a sales model used at their New York City store. The sample is padded and hand quilted in a 2¾-inch grid pattern. Extra filling in the unquilted borders makes them higher than the quilted surface.
In the early 20th-century, William Skinner and Sons was a prominent silk production and textile manufacturer. From 1874 the manufacturing business was located in Holyoke, Massachusetts. After the death of the founder, William Skinner in 1902, his sons took over the business. The family sold the business to Indian Head Mills in 1961. This square is an example of “Skinner’s Satins,” as they were popularly known.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1900-1950
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T07005
accession number
119013
catalog number
T07005
Jacket lining, William Skinner and Sons Sunbak fabric; 1951. William Skinner and Sons; Tan and Green Zip-in Lining; Sunbak (Skinner trademark) wool pile reverse with rayon satin face; Holyoke, MA.Sample of a zip-in lining for a US Army field jacket.
Description
Jacket lining, William Skinner and Sons Sunbak fabric; 1951. William Skinner and Sons; Tan and Green Zip-in Lining; Sunbak (Skinner trademark) wool pile reverse with rayon satin face; Holyoke, MA.
Sample of a zip-in lining for a US Army field jacket. Army tan color; Skinner's Sunbak fabric with 100% virgin wool pile backing and greenish gray rayon satin face. 65% rayon 35% wool. Tan zipper with silver metal made by Talon. 10.5 inch vent on center back hem with a button 7.5 inches up from hem and bias tape loop. Machine stitched with bias tape to finish all seams and edges. Hand stitched label and button. Slight runs in satin face fabric on center back.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1951
maker
William Skinner and Sons
ID Number
TE.T10982.000
catalog number
T10982.000
White satin baby shoes; William Skinner and Sons Sunbak fabric; 1951. White Baby Shoes with White lace and Pink embroidery; made of Sunbak viscose rayon satin face with wool back serge; 1951; Holyoke, MA. Hand embroidered pink roses with green accent on toe and strap.
Description
White satin baby shoes; William Skinner and Sons Sunbak fabric; 1951. White Baby Shoes with White lace and Pink embroidery; made of Sunbak viscose rayon satin face with wool back serge; 1951; Holyoke, MA. Hand embroidered pink roses with green accent on toe and strap. Cotton lace trim on strap. Machine zig zag stitch to finish edges. Sole piece is turned up and stitched to the upper to bind the pieces together. There is no additional structure to the sole. The center back seam is hand stitched as is the lace trim. There are two mother-of-pearl like buttons on each shoe, one is decorative and one is functional. The accession file includes a photo enlargement of tthe patented weaving process for Sunbak fabric trademark of William Skinner and Sons.
Hand embroidered pink roses with green accent on toe and strap. Cotton lace trim on strap. Machine zig zag stitch to finish edges. Sole piece is turned up and stitched to the upper to bind the pieces together. There is no additional structure to the sole. The center back seam is hand stitched as well as the lace trim. There are two mother-of-pearl like buttons on each shoe, one is decorative and one is functional. The accession file includes a photo enlargement of tthe patented weaving process for Sunbak fabric trademark of William Skinner and Sons.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1951
maker
William Skinner and Sons
ID Number
TE.T10981.000
catalog number
T10981.000
Baby's sacque style coat sample; William Skinner and Sons Sunbak fabric, 1951.Cream colored and hand embroidered baby sacque coat made from Skinner trademark Sunbak double-faced fabric - viscose rayon twill face with wool serge with brushed (?) pile.
Description
Baby's sacque style coat sample; William Skinner and Sons Sunbak fabric, 1951.
Cream colored and hand embroidered baby sacque coat made from Skinner trademark Sunbak double-faced fabric - viscose rayon twill face with wool serge with brushed (?) pile. Fabric made in 1951 in Holyoke, MA. Pink, white, blue, and green floral embroidery on the front only. at the nexk and center front corners at the hem. 2.25 inch by 2.25 inch embroidery at hem, 4.5 inch length of three floral pieces at neck. Blanket stitching in pink used to finish all edges. Face is turned down onto wrong side and whipstitched in place in white thread. Fabric is 66% rayon and 34% wool. The sacque is cut in one piece with serged side seams. There are no shoulder seams or armscye. Flared hem and straight center front line. Pink ribbon center front is hand stitched onto garment. Brown spot stains and light discoloration throughout. Was clearly cut using pen to mark the cutting and stitching lines as marks are still visible. Pen was also used to mark outline for embroidered areas. Long pencil marks also visible on front.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1951
maker
William Skinner and Sons
ID Number
TE.T10984.000
catalog number
T10984.000
Sewing Machine Prototype; Solomon Adler, inventor; 1953-54. Received U.S. Patent No. 2,709,978 in 1955.Currently not on view
Description
Sewing Machine Prototype; Solomon Adler, inventor; 1953-54. Received U.S. Patent No. 2,709,978 in 1955.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1953-1954
maker
Adler, Solomon
ID Number
2009.0118.04
catalog number
2009.0118.04
accession number
2009.0118
Sewing Machine Prototype; Solomon Adler, inventor; 1954-58; with knee control and interchangeable arm.Currently not on view
Description
Sewing Machine Prototype; Solomon Adler, inventor; 1954-58; with knee control and interchangeable arm.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1954-1958
maker
Adler, Solomon
ID Number
2009.0118.05
catalog number
2009.0118.05
accession number
2009.0118
This quilt top is made of blue chambray and printed cotton fabrics; feed sacks. Eleven inch square blocks (some variances) are pieced, with random use of prints. The top is six blocks wide and seven blocks in length. The pieces are machine-stitched.Currently not on view
Description
This quilt top is made of blue chambray and printed cotton fabrics; feed sacks. Eleven inch square blocks (some variances) are pieced, with random use of prints. The top is six blocks wide and seven blocks in length. The pieces are machine-stitched.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1945-1955
maker
unknown
ID Number
1991.0815.02
accession number
1991.0815
catalog number
1991.0815.02
Eight pointed pieced work star from a quilt. Pieced of fabric from tobacco pouches; twill weave cotton, printed in blue-green trade mark that includes a picture of a building. A few pieces have something printed in red instead of building.Currently not on view
Description (Brief)
Eight pointed pieced work star from a quilt. Pieced of fabric from tobacco pouches; twill weave cotton, printed in blue-green trade mark that includes a picture of a building. A few pieces have something printed in red instead of building.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1875 - 1950
maker
unknown
ID Number
1991.0382.10.1
catalog number
1991.0382.10.1
accession number
1991.0382
Ruth Jones Black Patrick was born January 31, 1905, She was an artist, teacher and illustrator, and began making this quilt, her first, in 1932 for her infant son. He was 20 years old when she finished it! In a 1971 newspaper interview, she is quoted thus, “. . .
Description
Ruth Jones Black Patrick was born January 31, 1905, She was an artist, teacher and illustrator, and began making this quilt, her first, in 1932 for her infant son. He was 20 years old when she finished it! In a 1971 newspaper interview, she is quoted thus, “. . . Edward was a little boy, I needed some sort of cover for his bed and thought I’d do something original. It was just going to be a small quilt . . . but it grew as he did—into twin bed size.” She made her own designs for her quilts, inspired by life, pictures in books, and quilt patterns of the time. Her unique quilts won ribbons at Alabama State Fairs.She married December 25, 1930, Herbert Edward Black(1906-1954), and she died November 25, 1999.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1932-1952
maker
Patrick, Ruth Jones Black
ID Number
1998.0043.1
catalog number
1998.0043.01
accession number
1998.0043

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