Textiles

The 50,000 objects in the textile collections fall into two main categories: raw fibers, yarns, and fabrics, and machines, tools, and other textile technology. Shawls, coverlets, samplers, laces, linens, synthetics, and other fabrics are part of the first group, along with the 400 quilts in the National Quilt Collection. Some of the Museum's most popular artifacts, such as the Star-Spangled Banner and the gowns of the first ladies, have an obvious textile connection.

The machinery and tools include spinning wheels, sewing machines, thimbles, needlework tools, looms, and an invention that changed the course of American agriculture and society. A model of Eli Whitney's cotton gin, made by the inventor in the early 1800s, shows the workings of a machine that helped make cotton plantations profitable in the South and encouraged the spread of slavery.

Family genealogy is centered above pair of weeping willow trees. At sides of sampler, vines with roses and buds twist around columns and continue upward forming an arch at top. One death record and worker's name at bottom, below weeping willow trees.
Description
Family genealogy is centered above pair of weeping willow trees. At sides of sampler, vines with roses and buds twist around columns and continue upward forming an arch at top. One death record and worker's name at bottom, below weeping willow trees. Brown guidelines under all free embroidery. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground. STITCHES: four-sided, crosslet, cross, satin, straight, chain, stem. THREAD COUNT: warp 28, weft 31/in.
Inscriptions:
"GENEALOGY
Simeon Skillin born Cape Elizabeth, Me May 31 1787.
Nancy Adams born Castine, Me Aug 26, 1789.
Married Aug 16 1812.
OFFSPRING
Edward P Skillin born Portland Me April. 28 1813.
Charles P Skillin born Portland Me Aug 18 1814.
George W Skillin born Portland Me Dec 18 1816.
Simeon Skillin born Portland Me May 12 1818.
Robert Skillin born Portland Me Oct 31 1819.
Sarah A Skillin born Portland Me Jun 29 1821.
Silas B Skillin born Portland Me Oct 29 1822.
Oliver P Skillin born Portland Me May 19 1824.
Eliza M Skillin born Portland Me Dec 25 1826.
Nancy P Skillin born Portland Me Feb 25 1829.
Silas B Skillin born Portland Me Aug 26 1830.
Mary Skillin born Portland Me July 17 1831.
Deaths
Silas B Skillin died
APr. 25, 1826.
By Sarah A Skillin
1835."
Background:
Sarah Adams was born on June 29, 1821, to Simeon and Nancy Adams Skillin in Portland, Maine. Sarah married Smith C. Hadlock, a fisherman, on July 14, 1843, and died in Maine on January 8, 1889. They had eight children—Harriet A., Emma C., Nancy A., Samuel, Oliver E., Cyrena A., Henry B., and Sarah G.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1835
associated dates
1982-12-02
maker
Skillin, Sarah A.
ID Number
1983.0617.03
catalog number
1983.0617.03
accession number
1983.0617
One Hebrew alphabet of 21 consonants. Two block alphabets with no "J." Three script alphabets with no "J." Numbers to 10. Alphabet letters and numbers each worked in different color. Six narrow geometric crossbands. Border of geometric design on all four sides.
Description
One Hebrew alphabet of 21 consonants. Two block alphabets with no "J." Three script alphabets with no "J." Numbers to 10. Alphabet letters and numbers each worked in different color. Six narrow geometric crossbands. Border of geometric design on all four sides. Silk embroidery thread on cotton ground. STITCHES: cross, satin. THREAD COUNT: warp 37, weft 36/in.
Inscription:
"B Lazarus 1843"
Background:
B. Lazarus has not yet been identified.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1843
associated dates
1983
part of
Warshaw Collection
maker
Lazarus, B.
ID Number
TE.T293320.0700
accession number
293320
catalog number
T293320.0700
Pieced quilt by Lisa Noel Coleman, titled "Bedsprings", made in 1985. Pieced, stenciled, and dyed cotton quilt representing a discarded mattress box spring, in off white, reds, turquoise, and black.
Description
Pieced quilt by Lisa Noel Coleman, titled "Bedsprings", made in 1985. Pieced, stenciled, and dyed cotton quilt representing a discarded mattress box spring, in off white, reds, turquoise, and black. The background stripes and coil images on the quilt were screen printed with simple hand-cut paper stencils. Vintage upholstery fabric with a button print was vat dyed and combined with other commercial prints and solids to complete the piece. Machine stitched, some hand quilting, 3 stitches/inch. Of the quilt the artist says, "I was inspired by seeing the rusty bedsprings sometimes abandoned in city alleys and thinking they would make a nice structure for vines in my garden. And I would think of the actual life witnessed by the springs." "Bedsprings" was exhibited at the Missoula Art Museum in "Contemporary Quilts by American Artists" invitational in April-June 1985.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1985
maker
Coleman, Lisa Noel
ID Number
2016.0034.01
accession number
2016.0034
catalog number
2016.0034.01
This headwrap dating between 1972 and 1984 was worn by Fath Davis Ruffins, an African American woman in Washington, DC.
Description
This headwrap dating between 1972 and 1984 was worn by Fath Davis Ruffins, an African American woman in Washington, DC. Ruffins bought the fabric for this headwrap and matching dress, which is also in the Smithsonian collections, at an African shop on Georgia Avenue in Washington, DC. It was made in 1972 but was worn as part of a summer "dress-up" outfit through 1984. Elaborately tied headwraps were worn by young African American women during this period to acknowledge their West African ancestral roots.
The flat cotton rectangular panel is a large floral "Java Print" in three shades of green with yellow accents on a cream background with a dark green with yellow floral design border. The forty-six inch long rectangle is narrower on one short side (twenty inches) than the other (inches) with stitched edges. "Guaranteed Dutch Java Print" is stamped on the selvage.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1972-1984
used by
Ruffins, Fath Davis
maker
Ruffins, Fath Davis
ID Number
1992.0456.001
accession number
1992.0456
catalog number
1992.0456.001
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1986
ID Number
1987.0699.01
accession number
1987.0699
catalog number
1987.0699.01
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
c. 1980-1983
c. 1980-1982
c. 1975-1983
1981
maker
Peluso, Anna
ID Number
1983.0178.01
accession number
1983.0178
catalog number
1983.0178.01
“Inhibitions II,” as named by the artist, Francoise Barnes, is a quilted piece utilizing the “Log Cabin” pattern. Francoise was among the artists in the 1970s who established the Art Quilt movement in which artists use traditional and modern quilting techniques to create art.
Description
“Inhibitions II,” as named by the artist, Francoise Barnes, is a quilted piece utilizing the “Log Cabin” pattern. Francoise was among the artists in the 1970s who established the Art Quilt movement in which artists use traditional and modern quilting techniques to create art. She, along with others, helped found the Quilt National, a venue for the exhibition of non-traditional quilts.
Nine 14-inch Log Cabin blocks of contrasting solid colors were assembled to create the center of this quilted piece. It is framed by a 5½-inch diagonally-pieced border. It is machine stitched and hand quilted. Vivid colors and the use of shading contribute to the overall dynamism of this 1970s example of an Art Quilt.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1979-1980
maker
Barnes, Francoise
ID Number
1995.0011.07
accession number
1995.0011
catalog number
1995.0011.07
At center, an inscribed monument with stepped top surmounted by sphere.
Description
At center, an inscribed monument with stepped top surmounted by sphere. Behind monument, weeping willow tree with crooked trunk; above monument and tree are five sprays of flowers, including roses, rosebuds, tulips, carnations, and star-flowers, with leaves; two sprays are tied with blue bows. At lower corners, two weeping willow trees that, like the monument, stand on ground of French knots. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground. STITCHES: satin, straight, split, French knot, stem, cross, crosslet. THREAD COUNT: warp 28, weft 26/in.
Inscriptions:
"To the memory of
Guni Goodale who
was born March 9th
1780
and departed this life
Jan 27th 1832 aged 52.
There remaineth there-
fore a rest to the peo-
ple of God.
Amanda F. Goodale 1832."
Background:
Amanda F. Goodale was born ca. 1818 to Guni (1780-1832) and Ann (1776-1864) Goodale in Glastonbury, Connecticut. On July 11, 1848, she was married to Henry Magill (1809-1892), by Rev. Charles R. Fisher. Henry was a farmer. Ann Goodale is living with Henry and Amanda in the 1850 census. Amanda died February 4, 1892 in Windsor, Connecticut.
Her sampler was probably worked at Miss Cornwall’s school in Glastonbury, Connecticut. All the motifs on her sampler can be found on other samplers worked at Miss Cornwall’s school.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1832
associated dates
1982-12-02
maker
Goodale, Amanda F.
ID Number
1983.0617.04
catalog number
1983.0617.04
accession number
1983.0617

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