Textiles

The 50,000 objects in the textile collections fall into two main categories: raw fibers, yarns, and fabrics, and machines, tools, and other textile technology. Shawls, coverlets, samplers, laces, linens, synthetics, and other fabrics are part of the first group, along with the 400 quilts in the National Quilt Collection. Some of the Museum's most popular artifacts, such as the Star-Spangled Banner and the gowns of the first ladies, have an obvious textile connection.

The machinery and tools include spinning wheels, sewing machines, thimbles, needlework tools, looms, and an invention that changed the course of American agriculture and society. A model of Eli Whitney's cotton gin, made by the inventor in the early 1800s, shows the workings of a machine that helped make cotton plantations profitable in the South and encouraged the spread of slavery.

Rectangular brush and comb case with scene of "Aeroplanes Guarding Paris" embroidered on front. Four gold airplanes fly over a gray and black Paris skyline. Red and blue border.
Description
Rectangular brush and comb case with scene of "Aeroplanes Guarding Paris" embroidered on front. Four gold airplanes fly over a gray and black Paris skyline. Red and blue border. Price tag is pinned to the inside flap and reads: "$1.50 / Brush & / comb case / "Aeroplanes / guarding / Paris"." Made by French peasant women in French Lorraine during World War I. Sold in America through the Society for Employment of Women in France.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1914-1918
ID Number
2011.0086.20
catalog number
2011.0086.20
accession number
2011.0086
WWI French stitchery: large drawstring knitting bag.
Description
WWI French stitchery: large drawstring knitting bag. One side has the French Third Republic emblem motif (blue "RF" embroidered on red shield at top; 4 masted French flags below; green and white croix de guerre [war cross] at bottom with gold center) with "1918" embroidered underneath in red. The other side depicts 7 soldiers from different Allied nations. Proceeding from left to right, the soldiers are as follows: French (holding a large French flag), Russian, British, Belgian, American, Serbian, and Italian. To the right of the soldiers is a flag pole flying the Allied flags, from top to bottom: Italy, Serbia, America, Belgium, Britain, Russian Empire, and France. Below the soldiers is "1914 - 1918" stitched in red and blue. Green embroidery along the bottom and green X stitch holding drawstring on both sides. A rusty needle is in the top flap of the bag. Made by French peasant women in French Lorraine. Sold in America through the Society for Employment of Women in France.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1914-1918
ID Number
2011.0086.18
catalog number
2011.0086.18
accession number
2011.0086
The coat-of-arms of the Belgian province of West Flanders is depicted on this Mechlin bobbin lace piece. It was made by Belgian lace makers during World War I and was most likely intended to be inserted into a larger item. See a similar motif in TE*E383965.Currently not on view
Description
The coat-of-arms of the Belgian province of West Flanders is depicted on this Mechlin bobbin lace piece. It was made by Belgian lace makers during World War I and was most likely intended to be inserted into a larger item. See a similar motif in TE*E383965.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1914-1918
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T16115G
catalog number
T16115G
accession number
297965
This fan leaf was designed for the Belgian Lace Committee by Belgian painter Charles Michel. His name is worked in needle lace into the ground (reseau) along the inner edge.
Description
This fan leaf was designed for the Belgian Lace Committee by Belgian painter Charles Michel. His name is worked in needle lace into the ground (reseau) along the inner edge. The central motif of helmet, swords and weaponry is flanked on either side by the war years 1914 and 1915. The rising sun, laurel leaves and other floral motifs are also included. Brussels bobbin lace was mainly used for the motifs and connected with Point de Gaze type needle lace. Belgian lace makers made this fan leaf during World War I. It has never been mounted to fan sticks.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1915-1916
part of design
1914
1915
maker
unknown
designer
Michel, Charles
ID Number
TE.T14505
catalog number
T14505
accession number
273245
This lion-and-crown motif was designed to represent the coat-of-arms of the Belgian province of Luxembourg. The Mechlin bobbin lace medallion was made by Belgian lace makers during World War I, and was likely intended to be inserted into a larger item.
Description
This lion-and-crown motif was designed to represent the coat-of-arms of the Belgian province of Luxembourg. The Mechlin bobbin lace medallion was made by Belgian lace makers during World War I, and was likely intended to be inserted into a larger item. See a similar motif in TE*E383965.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1914-1918
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T16115H
catalog number
T16115H
accession number
297965
The peace treaty negotiations between Germany and the Allied powers exposed discord among the Allies. US President Wilson took a less punitive stance than the governments of Britain and France.
Description
The peace treaty negotiations between Germany and the Allied powers exposed discord among the Allies. US President Wilson took a less punitive stance than the governments of Britain and France. With its symbolic doves and olive branches, this design from the second series of La Victoire printed dress silks by H.R. Mallinson & Co., Inc. suggests a sympathy with Wilson’s war aims. The design was machine-printed on Mallinson's semi-sheer trademarked "Indestructible Crepe." A very thin pure dye crepe, similar to "Georgette". with dove of peace and olive branch design in blue and white on a dark ground.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1918
maker
H. R. Mallinson & Co. Inc.
ID Number
TE.T04078
accession number
63204
catalog number
T04078.000
T4078
The first H.R. Mallinson & Co. La Victoire series, designed just before the Armistice to end World War I in Fall, 1918, comprised 6 designs. The first series of La Victoire prints celebrated different aspects of the French military forces.
Description
The first H.R. Mallinson & Co. La Victoire series, designed just before the Armistice to end World War I in Fall, 1918, comprised 6 designs. The first series of La Victoire prints celebrated different aspects of the French military forces. The "Scouts" design is "a clever stripe design in which the French poilu is featured on a scouting expedition." (description taken from a Mallinson marketing booklet). Infantry scouts often operated alone, ahead of their units, trying to find out the size and placement of the opposing forces. In this striped design, the seated and standing figures of the scouts appear to melt into the trees. The design is machine-printed on a lightweight semi-sheer silk crepe that the Mallinson firm trademarked as "Indestructible Crepe."
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1918
maker
H. R. Mallinson & Co. Inc.
ID Number
TE.T04076
accession number
63204
catalog number
T04076.000
T4076
Sussex Print Works, 1915. Silk dress goods printed in black on white with a variation (S-226) of an "ant and swallow" design derived from the Bolling family crest in England, to honor the marriage of President Woodrow Wilson and Edith Bolling Galt in December 1915.
Description
Sussex Print Works, 1915. Silk dress goods printed in black on white with a variation (S-226) of an "ant and swallow" design derived from the Bolling family crest in England, to honor the marriage of President Woodrow Wilson and Edith Bolling Galt in December 1915. This variation has a thin black check on a white ground, with scattered larger squares, white squares containing black ants and black squares containing white birds. The use of strict black and white reflects the fact that color dyes were scarce due to the blockade of Germany by British ships during WWI. German firms were the primary holders of dye and colorant patents, , and the blockade created a critical shortage of dyestuffs in the still-neutral United States in 1915-1916. When the US entered the war in 1917, on the British side, the German dye patents were seized and turned over to American manufacturers.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1915
referenced
Wilson, Edith Bolling Galt
maker
Sussex Print Works
ID Number
TE.T02961
accession number
59282
catalog number
T02961.000
Displayed at the top of a staircase in the Louvre Museum in Paris since 1884, the Greek statue called “The Winged Victory of Samothrace” depicts the goddess Nike, or Victory.
Description
Displayed at the top of a staircase in the Louvre Museum in Paris since 1884, the Greek statue called “The Winged Victory of Samothrace” depicts the goddess Nike, or Victory. The statue’s symbolism served as the basis for this design of stripes containing "Winged Victory" motifs, printed in 4 colors on a tan ground of the manufacturer’s popular "Pussy Willow" fabrication. It is one of the second series of La Victoire prints, produced by H.R. Mallinson & Co. in conjunction with the Peace Conference that followed the signing of the Armistice ending the fighting in World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1918
maker
H. R. Mallinson & Co. Inc.
ID Number
TE.T04086
accession number
63204
catalog number
T04086.000
T4086
Sample length of converted silk Cartridge cloth, called "Armistice Silk." A sample piece of the 18 million yards of surplus World War I cartridge or powder bag cloth. Quality D.
Description
Sample length of converted silk Cartridge cloth, called "Armistice Silk." A sample piece of the 18 million yards of surplus World War I cartridge or powder bag cloth. Quality D. Has been boiled off (the residual sericin from the raw silk removed by washing) and otherwise finished for the cutting-up or garment trade. Sold by the Salvage board for 84 cents per yard. Color: Natural. Yarns: noils warp and weft. Flecked with brown slubs.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1917-1919
ID Number
TE.T04155
catalog number
T04155.000
accession number
65107
This length of converted silk cartridge cloth, called "Armistice Silk"; is a sample of the 18 million yards of surplus American-made cartridge bag silk cloth owned by the US War Dept. at the end of World War I.
Description
This length of converted silk cartridge cloth, called "Armistice Silk"; is a sample of the 18 million yards of surplus American-made cartridge bag silk cloth owned by the US War Dept. at the end of World War I. Originally used to make the bags that held the powder charge for heavy artillery, it was finished and dyed for the "cutting-up" (ready-to-wear clothing) trade after the war, and sold by the Salvage Board for 76 cents per yard. This sample was dyed "Freedom blue."
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1917-1919
ID Number
TE.T04153
catalog number
T04153.000
accession number
65107
This sample length of Quality C silk noil Cartridge or powder bag cloth was dyed and finished for the cutting-up (garment manufacturing) trade. The refinished fabric was called "Armistice Silk," part of the 18 million yards of surplus cartridge cloth at the end of World War I.
Description
This sample length of Quality C silk noil Cartridge or powder bag cloth was dyed and finished for the cutting-up (garment manufacturing) trade. The refinished fabric was called "Armistice Silk," part of the 18 million yards of surplus cartridge cloth at the end of World War I. The fabric was sold by the Salvage board at $1.20 per yard. Color: Wild Rose.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1917-1919
ID Number
TE.T04160
catalog number
T04160.000
accession number
65107
This example of Mechlin bobbin lace depicts a whimsical variant of the Gallic rooster, symbol of France. The motif was made by Belgian lace makers during World War I and was likely intended to be inserted into a larger item.Currently not on view
Description
This example of Mechlin bobbin lace depicts a whimsical variant of the Gallic rooster, symbol of France. The motif was made by Belgian lace makers during World War I and was likely intended to be inserted into a larger item.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1914-1918
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T16115F
catalog number
T16115F
accession number
297965
Floral motifs in the Valenciennes square mesh bobbin lace technique were used for this cotton lace border. The repeated pattern is four and three-eight inches long, and the ends are unfinished. The pattern is the same as in TE*T14225B, except for the scalloped edge.
Description
Floral motifs in the Valenciennes square mesh bobbin lace technique were used for this cotton lace border. The repeated pattern is four and three-eight inches long, and the ends are unfinished. The pattern is the same as in TE*T14225B, except for the scalloped edge. It was identified by the donor as lace made by Belgian lace makers during World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1914-1918
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T14225A
catalog number
T14225A
accession number
273245
Sample length of heavyweight, closely woven plain weave silk cloth with paired spun silk warps and silk noil wefts.Unbleached, undyed. Accession record states: Closely woven, plain weave all silk fabric with silk noil weft interwoven with spun silk warp in parallel pairs.
Description
Sample length of heavyweight, closely woven plain weave silk cloth with paired spun silk warps and silk noil wefts.Unbleached, undyed. Accession record states: Closely woven, plain weave all silk fabric with silk noil weft interwoven with spun silk warp in parallel pairs. Quality B, as it comes from the loom, not finished for sale. Used for powder bags in the big guns because it is entirely consumed by the explosion of powder, leaving no smoldering particles. Sold by the Salvage Board at $1.13 per yard. 36" wide.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1917-1919
ID Number
TE.T04161
catalog number
T04161.000
accession number
65107
This border has motifs of women, men, windmills, and trees. Below the figures is the Flemish saying “MYN VADERLAND IS MYN DUURBAARSTE PAND” (My homeland is my most cherished possession) worked into the lace.
Description
This border has motifs of women, men, windmills, and trees. Below the figures is the Flemish saying “MYN VADERLAND IS MYN DUURBAARSTE PAND” (My homeland is my most cherished possession) worked into the lace. This Lille type bobbin lace features a nine-inch long pattern repeat and a picot edge. It was designed for the Dutch market for edging their bonnets. Both ends are finished with a narrow Mechlin bobbin lace border with floral motifs outlined with gimp. The lace was made by Belgian lace makers during World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1914-1918
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T14227
catalog number
T14227
accession number
273245
Sample length of closely woven plain weave silk with spun silk warp and silk noil weft. Slightly rough surface. Quality C. Sample of one quality of the 18 million yards of surplus World War I cartridge or powder bag silk cloth sold by the Salvage board after war's end.
Description
Sample length of closely woven plain weave silk with spun silk warp and silk noil weft. Slightly rough surface. Quality C. Sample of one quality of the 18 million yards of surplus World War I cartridge or powder bag silk cloth sold by the Salvage board after war's end. This quality sold for $1.07 per yard.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1917-1919
ID Number
TE.T04158
catalog number
T04158.000
accession number
65107
Part of a set of six, this Valenciennes bobbin lace medallion depicts the municipal shield of Ruysselede (Ruiselede) in the Belgian province of West Flanders.
Description
Part of a set of six, this Valenciennes bobbin lace medallion depicts the municipal shield of Ruysselede (Ruiselede) in the Belgian province of West Flanders. Other medallions, two with the American eagle, two with the Belgian lion coat-of-arms, and another with the municipal shield of Ruysselede complete the set. See a similar motif in TE*E383967. Belgian lace makers made these laces during World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1916-1918
made during
1914-1918
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T14222D
catalog number
T14222.00D
accession number
273245
This table runner has a central inscription of “VLAANDEREN IN DEN KRYG – HULDE VAN ARDOYE – 1915” (Flanders in War – Tribute from Ardoye). Nine embroidered Belgian province shields and the 1915 municipal shield for Ardoye decorate the border.
Description
This table runner has a central inscription of “VLAANDEREN IN DEN KRYG – HULDE VAN ARDOYE – 1915” (Flanders in War – Tribute from Ardoye). Nine embroidered Belgian province shields and the 1915 municipal shield for Ardoye decorate the border. The German Army used poisoned gas for the first time on the western front in 1915 by Ardoye near Ypres, West Flanders, Belgium.
The linen fabric of the table runner is embroidered in satin stitch and French knots with cotton. The floral border surrounding the shields is rendered in the Bruges flower lace technique and braided mesh. Lace and embroidery was made by Belgian women during World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1915-1918
part of design
1915
facilitator
Hoover, Herbert
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.E383961
catalog number
E383961
accession number
172208
French General Ferdinand Foch was named Supreme Commander of all the Allied forces in France in March 1918, and was named Marshal of France in July 1918. He accepted the German surrender in November of that year.
Description
French General Ferdinand Foch was named Supreme Commander of all the Allied forces in France in March 1918, and was named Marshal of France in July 1918. He accepted the German surrender in November of that year. This design, dedicated to this French war hero, is from the first La Victoire series, produced by H.R. Mallinson & Co, just before the armistice that ended the fighting in World War I. The striped design in gold on a dark blue ground, on semi-sheer "Indestructible Crepe" was inspired by the military insignia of four rows of oak leaves and seven stars that only Foch was entitled to wear, and which ornamented his uniform cap.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1918
maker
H. R. Mallinson & Co. Inc.
ID Number
TE.T04088
accession number
63204
catalog number
T04088.000
T4088
This needle lace table mat commemorates the coronation of King George V in 1911. The four women represent Fortitude, Wisdom, Justice, and Peace, represented by the lance, helmet, sword, and shield.
Description
This needle lace table mat commemorates the coronation of King George V in 1911. The four women represent Fortitude, Wisdom, Justice, and Peace, represented by the lance, helmet, sword, and shield. The artist was Bernard Partridge, who published the cartoon in Punch Magazine in 1911. The shields of England, Scotland, Ireland, and Wales are inserted in the corners of the mat. The center and the shields are made in the Point de Gaze technique. This beautiful needle lace was probably made by Belgian lace makers during World War I in gratitude for British help.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1914-1918
depicted (sitter)
George V King of the United Kingdom
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T13776
catalog number
T13776
accession number
264477
Sample length of natural colored silk, "boiled off", meaning the sericin has been removed, and the cloth finished for sale to the garment trade. Plain weave, undyed, unbleached, flecked with brown slubs.
Description
Sample length of natural colored silk, "boiled off", meaning the sericin has been removed, and the cloth finished for sale to the garment trade. Plain weave, undyed, unbleached, flecked with brown slubs. Known as "Armistice Silk", Quality C, converted surplus World War I Cartridge Cloth; A piece of the 18,000,000 yards of surplus cartridge cloth remaining after World War I. Sold by the Salvage Board at $1.17 per yard.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1917-1919
ID Number
TE.T04159
accession number
65107
catalog number
T04159.000
This fingerless mitt, one of a pair, is handmade of white cotton in Chantilly style bobbin lace with floral motifs. A ribbon is added along the top edge. The back of the mitt is fastened with a small button.
Description
This fingerless mitt, one of a pair, is handmade of white cotton in Chantilly style bobbin lace with floral motifs. A ribbon is added along the top edge. The back of the mitt is fastened with a small button. The mitt matches TE*T14221A and was identified by the donor as lace made by Belgian lace makers during World War I
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1914-1919
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T14221B
catalog number
T14221B
accession number
273245
"The Garden of the Trianon" is a repeating design of a small Classical style temple surrounded by flowers and foliage, printed in 6 brilliant colors on silk "Pussy Willow," a popular fabrication by American silk manufacturer H.R. Mallinson & Co.
Description
"The Garden of the Trianon" is a repeating design of a small Classical style temple surrounded by flowers and foliage, printed in 6 brilliant colors on silk "Pussy Willow," a popular fabrication by American silk manufacturer H.R. Mallinson & Co. The design is from the second La Victoire series, produced by Mallinson in conjunction with the Peace Conference that followed the signing of the Armistice that ended the fighting in World War I. The gardens of the Trianon Palace, within the Versailles estate, must have provided welcome relief from the treaty negotiations for the delegates to the Peace Conference in 1919. The Grand Trianon Palace would also be the site of the signing of the Treaty of Trianon in June 1920, the formal ending of hostilities between the Allies and the newly formed nation of Hungary.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1918
maker
H. R. Mallinson & Co. Inc.
ID Number
TE.T04083
accession number
63204
catalog number
T04083.000
T4083

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