Textiles

Coverlet

The 50,000 objects in the textile collections fall into two main categories: raw fibers, yarns, and fabrics, and machines, tools, and other textile technology. Shawls, coverlets, samplers, laces, linens, synthetics, and other fabrics are part of the first group, along with the 400 quilts in the National Quilt Collection. Some of the Museum's most popular artifacts, such as the Star-Spangled Banner and the gowns of the first ladies, have an obvious textile connection.

The machinery and tools include spinning wheels, sewing machines, thimbles, needlework tools, looms, and an invention that changed the course of American agriculture and society. A model of Eli Whitney's cotton gin, made by the inventor in the early 1800s, shows the workings of a machine that helped make cotton plantations profitable in the South and encouraged the spread of slavery.

American Woolen Co. Suiting sample, 1912

American Woolen Co. all worsted mixture Suiting fabric sample in very dark gray, 1912Manufactured by the National and Providence Worsted Mills, Providence, RI.
Description
American Woolen Co. all worsted mixture Suiting fabric sample in very dark gray, 1912
Manufactured by the National and Providence Worsted Mills, Providence, RI. The Providence and National Worsted Mills, founded in Rhode Island in the 1870s, were originally two companies owned by Charles Fletcher, one a spinning and one a weaving mill for working with worsted yarns. Fletcher amalgamated the two companies into one in 1893, and then sold this company to the large Lawrence-based American Woolen Company in 1899. When the Lawrence mill workers struck against pay cuts in 1912 (the Bread and Roses strike), the American Woolen Company was one of the firms affected. The Rhode Island mills, however, did not strike.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1912
maker
National and Providence Worsted Mills
ID Number
TE.T00230
catalog number
T00230.000
accession number
54882

Promenade Dress

Date made
1809-07
ID Number
CS.228001.0107
catalog number
228001.0107

1922 Clarkesville Reformed Church Embroidered Counterpane

This redwork embroidered counterpane was most likely made as a fund raiser for the Clarksville Reformed Church. It is dedicated to “Rev. Boyce Pastor.
Description
This redwork embroidered counterpane was most likely made as a fund raiser for the Clarksville Reformed Church. It is dedicated to “Rev. Boyce Pastor. Peggy His wife, Rex Their dog.” According to further inscriptions on the quilt, the occasion was the “Clarksville Reformed Church Fair Dec. 8th 1922.”
A twelve-petal daisy is the motif of the forty-eight blocks, the petals providing spaces for over 500 embroidered names. First, the names were written in pencil, and then embroidered with red cotton. In a few instances, a different name is embroidered over the original penciled name. One block utilized the spaces for advertising: “Priced / Lowest / The / Transportation / Economical / Motor Cars / Chevrolet / Wright / Gardner / Automobile / Equipped / Fully.” Presumably a small donation, maybe ten or twenty-five cents, assured one’s name embroidered on the counterpane. Further funds may have been secured by a raffle at the December fair. Or it may have been given to Pastor Boyce as a token of appreciation. Quilts or counterpanes such as this are still used, as they have been for more than 150 years, to raise funds for worthy causes.
The Clarksville Reformed Church was established in 1853, when a building was erected to serve the congregation. Sadly, this church was destroyed by fire on a cold February Sunday in 1912. The congregation rallied to rebuild and less then a year later, in January 1913, they were able to hold services in a new church. Clarksville in the 1920s, when this counterpane was made, was a small village in Albany County, New York. Reverend Boyce was the pastor for the Clarksville Reformed Church from 1919 to 1926 and also the Reformed Church in Westerlo, New York. In the 1950s Clarksville was still a small village and it became increasingly difficult to support the church. Another church in Clarksville, the Methodist Episcopal Church, also faced similar problems, and the solution was to merge the two. By the mid-1960s, a new church was dedicated whose sign incorporates the two bells from the older churches, symbolizing the origins of the new Clarksville Community Church.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1922
maker
unknown
ID Number
1995.0011.02
accession number
1995.0011
catalog number
1995.0011.02

Late 18th C. Lappet Made With Alençon Needle Lace Applied to Droschel Bobbin Lace

Lappet with rounded end in Alençon needle lace applied to hand made Droschel bobbin net made in the last quarter of 18th century. The small Alençon floral motifs along the vein in the center covers most of the lappet.
Description (Brief)
Lappet with rounded end in Alençon needle lace applied to hand made Droschel bobbin net made in the last quarter of 18th century. The small Alençon floral motifs along the vein in the center covers most of the lappet. There are also floral motifs along the picoted edges.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1775-1800
ID Number
TE.L7608
catalog number
L7608.000

1850 - 1851 Eliza Jane Baile's "Bride's" Quilt

Eliza Jane Baile lovingly stitched and inscribed this cotton album quilt top, finishing a few weeks after her marriage to Levi Manahan in 1851. Original patterns of wreaths of strawberries and flowers are framed by a strawberry vine along the quilt border.
Description
Eliza Jane Baile lovingly stitched and inscribed this cotton album quilt top, finishing a few weeks after her marriage to Levi Manahan in 1851. Original patterns of wreaths of strawberries and flowers are framed by a strawberry vine along the quilt border. Three blocks incorporate inked inscriptions within scrolls. On one corner, one may read “E J Baile. Commenced June 1850” and on the opposite corner, “Finished October 30 185l.” A third scroll has the following sentiment carefully penned:
“Sweett flowers bright as Indian Sky
Yet mild as Beauty’s soft blue eye;
Thy charms tho’ unassuming shed /
A modest splendoure o’er the mead.”
Great attention was given to the completion of this quilt. The sawteeth of the border are individually appliquéd and the strawberries stuffed. All of the motifs have outline quilting, with closely quilted background lines, 10 stitches to the inch. The overall design is further enhanced with embroidery and small details drawn in ink or watercolor.
Eliza Jane Baile, the daughter of Abner Baile (1807-1894) and Frances Pole Baile (1813-1893) was born February 13, 1832, in Maryland. According to Eliza’s obituary, her mother was a descendent of Edward III, King of England. At age nineteen, Eliza married Levi Manahan ((1824-1893) on October 11, 1851. They reared eight children on a farm near Westminster, Carroll County, Maryland.
Eliza was not only an accomplished quilter, she was also known as a folk artist. One of her oil paintings, Stone Chapel of the Methodist Church is at the Historical Society of Carroll County. Other paintings are owned and treasured by her descendents. An active member of the Stone Chapel United Methodist Church, Eliza also founded a Ladies Mite Society and served as president for 50 years. Mite Societies were voluntary organizations that were established in the nineteenth century to raise monies for mission work.
Eliza died June 25, 1923, age 91, at her home in Westminster and is buried at the Stone Chapel Cemetery. As her obituary in the Daily News, Frederick, Maryland, notes, “Her Christian character endeared her to many friends. She was well known as an artist.” In 1954, Eliza’s youngest daughter, Addie, donated her mother’s quilt to the Smithsonian. Eliza's artistic abilities are well represented in the “Bride’s Quilt” she designed and made for her marriage.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1850-1851
maker
Baile, Eliza Jane
ID Number
TE.T011149
accession number
202673
catalog number
T11149

A H Straus and Co 'Luxor Taffeta' dress silk, Peruvian design; 1917.

A H Straus & Co 'Luxor Taffeta' dress silk, Peruvian-inspired allover design; 1917. Luxor taffeta. A lustrous reversible discharge printed fabric with the design taken from a woven tissue of ancient Peru. Shows fantastical geometric forms.
Description
A H Straus & Co 'Luxor Taffeta' dress silk, Peruvian-inspired allover design; 1917. Luxor taffeta. A lustrous reversible discharge printed fabric with the design taken from a woven tissue of ancient Peru. Shows fantastical geometric forms. Colors include green, cerise, gold, and blue on a black ground. Overall effect is of alternating wavy and zigzagging patterned horizontal bands.
A. H. Straus and Co. was active in the 1910s and 1920s. The company was based in New York City and was a premier importer and manufacturer of printed silks. Many fabric lengths in this collection have prints copied from ancient textiles.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1917
ID Number
TE.T02553.000
accession number
61633
catalog number
T02553.000

Armenian Needle Lace Centerpiece

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
20thCentury
maker
Kasparian, Alice Odian
ID Number
1996.0121.06
accession number
1996.0121

1884 - 1900 Crazy Patchwork Quilt Blocks

Seven blocks of crazy patchwork numbered T.13529B-H. For all blocks, the patches are turned under and basted to a cotton ground, some then embroidered, and some not completely stitched. The embroidery is worked through both the silk patches and the cotton ground.
Description (Brief)
Seven blocks of crazy patchwork numbered T.13529B-H. For all blocks, the patches are turned under and basted to a cotton ground, some then embroidered, and some not completely stitched. The embroidery is worked through both the silk patches and the cotton ground. Motifs include flowers, fans, spider webs, a snowflake, a chick, and a yellow transfer-printed script letter M. Embroidery stitches: Buttonhole, Feather, Herringbone, Chain, Daisy, Couble Cross, Satin, Cross. The blocks accompany a pattern book of crazy patchwork (T.13529A) from Strawbridge & Clothier, Philadelphia, PA; from which the designs on the blocks were transferred or copied.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1875-1900
1884-1900
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T13529
catalog number
T13529
accession number
259084

Flemish Bobbin Lace Flounce

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1700-1750
ID Number
TE.E317252
catalog number
E317252.000

Six skeins Japan tram silk, dyed; National Silk Dyeing Co., 1915

Six skeins of thrown silk: eight thread Japan tram, dyed; National Silk Dyeing Co., 1915. Thrown silk: eight thread Japan Tram dyed--used in knitting hosiery, weaving braids, etc. Colors: pink, light blue, yellow red, green, and black.
Description
Six skeins of thrown silk: eight thread Japan tram, dyed; National Silk Dyeing Co., 1915. Thrown silk: eight thread Japan Tram dyed--used in knitting hosiery, weaving braids, etc. Colors: pink, light blue, yellow red, green, and black. Part of a donation of 63 samples representing the processes of silk skein-dyeing, and silk piece-dyeing and printing, given by the National Silk Dyeing Co of Paterson, New Jersey, in 1915. National Silk Dyeing Co., headquartered at 140 Market St., Paterson, NJ was formed from five silk dyeing firms in Peterson, NJ (Auger & Simon Silk Dyeing Company; Emil Geering Silk Dyeing Co., Knipscher & Maas Silk Dyeing Company, Kearns Brothers, and Gaede Silk Dyeing Co.) and a fifth company from Allentown, Pa. (Lotte Brothers under the leadership of Charles I. Auger. National Silk Dyeing immediately became one of the large silk dyeing conglomerates in the nation. It operated into the Great Depression but was eventually broken up and sold off.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1915
maker
National Silk Dyeing Co.
ID Number
TE.T02797.000
catalog number
T02797.000
accession number
58940
catalog number
T2797

Michael Eichman Figured and Fancy tied-beiderwand coverlet; Pennsylvania, 1850

Michael Eichman (1814-1883) wove this Figured and Fancy, red, white, blue, and green, tied-Beiderwand coverlet in Juniata County, Pennsylvania in 1850. The name of the weaver, Michael Eichman, and the location Juniata, Co.
Description
Michael Eichman (1814-1883) wove this Figured and Fancy, red, white, blue, and green, tied-Beiderwand coverlet in Juniata County, Pennsylvania in 1850. The name of the weaver, Michael Eichman, and the location Juniata, Co. Penn., are woven into the two lower corners along with the date, 1850. The center field pattern is made up of “Double Lily and Starburst” carpet medallions, and the three borders feature “Rose Tree” motifs. The colors appear in stripes across the coverlet, a common design feature of Pennsylvania woven coverlets. There is no center seam indicating that Eichman was using a broadloom and possibly involved in small factory production. The coverlet measures 88 inches by 72 inches. There were several small woolen mills in Juniata County that could have employed Eichman as a fancy weaver. The coverlet was made for a member of the Phillip Crater family. It descended in the family of his son Joel, who was born in Pennsylvania, but by 1850 and according to the Federal Census, the family had moved to Illinois. In 1884 the family went to Missouri by covered wagon and the coverlet went with them. Michael Eichman was born in Hamburg in the German States, immigrating to Philadelphia in 1836, possibly working at one of the many textile factories in and around the city. He soon relocated to Freeburg, Snyder County. Family legend recorded that Eichman would carry his coverlets on his back and sell them on his way from Snyder County to Philadelphia. This was evidently a successful venture because he was able to purchase land in Cocolamus, Juniata County where he continued to weave and farm.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1830
maker
Michael Eichman
ID Number
2002.0306.01
accession number
2002.0306

attr. Henry Goodrich; coverlet, Figured and Fancy, double-cloth; 1831; New York

This is a blue and white, double-cloth, Figured and Fancy coverlet features along fringe three sides, and a spread eagle lower border. The center design is variation of the “Double Rose” carpet medallion pattern with ivy leaf accents.
Description
This is a blue and white, double-cloth, Figured and Fancy coverlet features along fringe three sides, and a spread eagle lower border. The center design is variation of the “Double Rose” carpet medallion pattern with ivy leaf accents. The side borders display an interlocking “Double Flower” motif that is reminiscent of lotus flowers. The two lower corner blocks feature pairs of dogs and a woven inscription which reads, "1831 EAW/ Pompey." There is a four inch self-fringe on the lower edge and an applied fringe on the sides that is also four inches long. The coverlet was constructed of two panels that were woven as one length, cut, and seamed up the middle.
This coverlet was woven in Pompey, Onondaga County, New York in 1831. There has been some scholarly debate about who the Pompey weaver(s) may have been. At first scholars looked for a weaver with the last name Pompey, but they quickly realized the weaver was operating in the town of Pompey. There are extant dated coverlets in this style ranging from 1831-1836. There three coverlet weavers in Pompey at the time. Benjamin June and his son, Benjamin Jr. and Henry L. Goodrich. All three of these weavers could possibly be the maker of this and the other Pompey coverlets; however, the signed June family coverlets omit the town name from their designs, leaving Goodrich the most likely candidate. Federal census records list Henry as a resident of Rensselaer County, New York in 1830 and 1840, but occupation was not a recorded category in the early census. It is unclear when and why Henry spent time in Onondaga County and more research is needed to unravel the mystery and confirm or deny the attribution of these coverlets to Goodrich. The style of this coverlet is reflective the organization, arrangement, and style of the earlier Figured and Fancy coverlets foun
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1831
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T18211
catalog number
T18211.000
accession number
1977.0101

Black Maltese Bobbin Lace Border

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
late 19th/early 20th century
ID Number
TE.E367005
catalog number
E367005.000
accession number
124621

Hempfield Railroad; coverlet; Figured and Fancy; double-cloth; c. 1851; Pennsylvania or West Virginia

An unidentified weaver wove this blue and white, Figured and Fancy, double cloth coverlet. The centerfield design features oak leaf and flower, sprig and floral, foliate swag, and leaf carpet medallions. All four of the borders depict the No.
Description
An unidentified weaver wove this blue and white, Figured and Fancy, double cloth coverlet. The centerfield design features oak leaf and flower, sprig and floral, foliate swag, and leaf carpet medallions. All four of the borders depict the No. 240 engine and coal car being operated by the engineer. The cornerblocks depict four profile portraits of M. T. McKennon, the first president of the railroad. He is surrounded by the woven inscription, “Hemfield Railroad.” The Hempfield Railroad was began in 1851 and designed to connect Wheeling, Virginia (current West Virginia) to Washington, Pennsylvania. Construction was not complete until 1857 and the railroad operated until 1871 when it was sold to the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad. It is not clear if these coverlets were used on the passenger cars or sold to subscribers. The railroad was initially funded through subscription, and it is possible that these coverlets were made to help facilitate that process or just to commemorate the arrival of the railroad. The coverlet was likely made c. 1851 either in Wheeling or Western Pennsylvania. The railroad operated three locomotive engines, six freight and passenger cars, and eleven coal cars.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1851
c. 1851
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T7317
catalog number
T07317.000
accession number
123286

William Skinner and Sons midnight blue nylon twill "Combat Cloth"; 1946

William Skinner and Sons Nylon twill "Combat Cloth" fabric length 1946.Fine, smooth, slightly stiff, close fabric. Used for soles of electrically headed shoes, casualty blankets, coating purposes for government development, football pants, and basketball uniforms.
Description
William Skinner and Sons Nylon twill "Combat Cloth" fabric length 1946.
Fine, smooth, slightly stiff, close fabric. Used for soles of electrically headed shoes, casualty blankets, coating purposes for government development, football pants, and basketball uniforms. See T09 669.000 (Football pants) for application of fabric in different color. Commercially known as Combat Cloth. 2 fabric lengths included; one is 144 inches in length and the other is 36 inches. The longer one has a handstitched hem at the top similar to a curtain and was likely used as a display in a store. It has visible deterioration of color due to sun exposure. The wrong side of the fabric has dirt stains, also likely from being on display. The color is Midnight Blue.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1946
ID Number
TE.T09674A-B
accession number
172805
catalog number
T09674A-B

17th Century Milanese Style Bobbin Lace Flounce

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
17th C
ID Number
TE.T15343
catalog number
T15343.000

lace

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1860
ID Number
TE.T16216
catalog number
T16216.000

Pillow for making Bobbin Lace

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca. 1830
ID Number
TE.E151391B
catalog number
E151391.00B
accession number
23319

Flounce in Vieux Brabant Bobbin Lace

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
18th century, early
ID Number
TE.T15336
catalog number
T15336.000
accession number
293455

fashion plate

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1860-12
bequest of
James, Catalina Juliana Mason Myers
ID Number
CS.033675.002
catalog number
033675.002
accession number
70138

Aunt Lizzie Reagan's Overshot Coverlet; Tennessee; 1930

Lizzie Reagan wove this overshot coverlet in Tennessee in about 1930. It is made of cotton and wool, and woven in a design that is sometimes known as "Lee's Surrender." Lizzie Reagan was known as Aunt Lizzie, and was an expert on natural dyes.
Description
Lizzie Reagan wove this overshot coverlet in Tennessee in about 1930. It is made of cotton and wool, and woven in a design that is sometimes known as "Lee's Surrender." Lizzie Reagan was known as Aunt Lizzie, and was an expert on natural dyes. She was active in the movement to reintroduce "old" methods such as hand spinning and weaving at the Phi Beta Phi Settlement School in Gatlinburg, Tennessee. Such schools were started in the 1880s by benevolent societies in an attempt to encourage and preserve the local material culture, and provide the local artists with income.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1930
maker
Reagan, Lizzie
ID Number
1996.0120.01
catalog number
1996.0120.01
accession number
1996.0120

Walking Dress

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1823-01
ID Number
CS.228001.0268
catalog number
228001.0268

Chantilly Bobbin Lace Motif

One of a set of six identical curved stylized cone or paisley shaped black silk Chantilly bobbin lace appliqués or insertions. The attached paper tag states "131, 6 pieces, No 10/55, Chantilly, made by hand in Flanders for the C'on for Relief in Belgium, M. Kefer Mali".
Description
One of a set of six identical curved stylized cone or paisley shaped black silk Chantilly bobbin lace appliqués or insertions. The attached paper tag states "131, 6 pieces, No 10/55, Chantilly, made by hand in Flanders for the C'on for Relief in Belgium, M. Kefer Mali". Each piece is labeled "10/55, $.45 each". Madame Kefer-Mali was one of four women on the Lace Committee working with the Commission for Relief in Belgium. The lace was made by Belgian lace makers during World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1914-1918
made during
1914-1918
Helped create Commission for Relief in Belgium
Hoover, Herbert
previous owner
Kefer-Mali, M.
maker
unknown
ID Number
2013.0121.42
accession number
2013.0121
catalog number
2013.0121.42

Pattern Sheet, From "Pillow Lace - A Practical Handbook"; 1907

Pattern sheet 2 from Mincoff and Marriage's book, PILLOW LACE - A PRACTICAL HANDBOOK, 1907, with patterns 45, 47, 48 and 50.Currently not on view
Description (Brief)
Pattern sheet 2 from Mincoff and Marriage's book, PILLOW LACE - A PRACTICAL HANDBOOK, 1907, with patterns 45, 47, 48 and 50.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1907
ID Number
2016.0048.08
accession number
2016.0048
catalog number
2016.0048.08

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