Textiles

Coverlet

The 50,000 objects in the textile collections fall into two main categories: raw fibers, yarns, and fabrics, and machines, tools, and other textile technology. Shawls, coverlets, samplers, laces, linens, synthetics, and other fabrics are part of the first group, along with the 400 quilts in the National Quilt Collection. Some of the Museum's most popular artifacts, such as the Star-Spangled Banner and the gowns of the first ladies, have an obvious textile connection.

The machinery and tools include spinning wheels, sewing machines, thimbles, needlework tools, looms, and an invention that changed the course of American agriculture and society. A model of Eli Whitney's cotton gin, made by the inventor in the early 1800s, shows the workings of a machine that helped make cotton plantations profitable in the South and encouraged the spread of slavery.

Topic: Cotton

Ardoye Orphanage Tablecover

This round linen table cover contains the inscription “1915 ARDOYE - KLOOSTER DER H. KINDERSHEID VAN JESUS – WEESKINDEREN” (1915 Ardoye - Convent of the Holy Childhood of Jesus - Orphans) in the center.
Description
This round linen table cover contains the inscription “1915 ARDOYE - KLOOSTER DER H. KINDERSHEID VAN JESUS – WEESKINDEREN” (1915 Ardoye - Convent of the Holy Childhood of Jesus - Orphans) in the center. Ardoye (Ardooie) is in West Flanders, Belgium, in the area where the German army used poison gas for the first time on the western front in the second battle of Ypres in 1915.
The table cover is centered with bobbin lace. Bruges flower lace as well as tape lace and braided mesh techniques were utilized by the Belgian lace makers, who made this during World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1915-1918
part of design
1915
facilitator
Hoover, Herbert
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.E383962
catalog number
E383962
accession number
172208

American Eagle and Belgian Lion Table Scarf

Both ends of this table scarf are decorated with the seals of the United States and Belgium.
Description
Both ends of this table scarf are decorated with the seals of the United States and Belgium. A cornucopia spilling from the US shield to the Belgian shield symbolizes generosity from the American people toward the Belgian people.
The table scarf, with delicate handmade floral designs of Point de Gaze needle lace and mixed Brussels bobbin and needle lace, is appliquéd to machine made net. Belgian lace makers made this during World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1914-1919
facilitator
Hoover, Herbert
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.E383968
catalog number
E383968
accession number
172208

Honiton Bobbin Lace Cape

This cape is made of Honiton bobbin lace. The simple floral motifs are connected with braids with picots and display a variety of lead-work as fillings. The thread is cotton.Currently not on view
Description
This cape is made of Honiton bobbin lace. The simple floral motifs are connected with braids with picots and display a variety of lead-work as fillings. The thread is cotton.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1860-1890
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T15219
catalog number
T15219
accession number
290897

Collar with Peace Doves

This collar has motifs of peace doves and floral vases executed in mixed Brussels bobbin and needle lace techniques with ground and fillings in point de Gaze style needle lace. The scalloped edge has picots.
Description
This collar has motifs of peace doves and floral vases executed in mixed Brussels bobbin and needle lace techniques with ground and fillings in point de Gaze style needle lace. The scalloped edge has picots. Identified by the donor as lace made by Belgian lace makers during World War I
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1914-1918
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T14223
catalog number
T14223
accession number
273245

Monogrammed Tablecloth

The center of this fine linen tablecloth is decorated with three small monograms "EW" and scroll designs. EW most likely stands for Ella Whitlock, the wife of the American Envoy to Belgium. Mrs.
Description
The center of this fine linen tablecloth is decorated with three small monograms "EW" and scroll designs. EW most likely stands for Ella Whitlock, the wife of the American Envoy to Belgium. Mrs. Brand Whitlock worked tirelessly on behalf of the Belgian lace makers during World War I.
The eight and one-half inch wide border on the tablecloth is executed in Point de Paris bobbin lace with symmetrical floral designs of roses and edelweiss, the favorite flowers of Queen Elisabeth of Belgium. Belgian lace makers made this tablecloth during World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1914-1919
described
Whitlock, Ella Brainerd
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.E383964
catalog number
E383964
accession number
172208

Ñandutí Needle Lace Collar

This collar is made in the Ñandutí technique with cotton thread. The motifs are circular and semi-circular and two strips are joined to make the collar. Probably made in Paraguay, South America. Ñandutí lace is made on a foundation fabric, which is removed later.
Description
This collar is made in the Ñandutí technique with cotton thread. The motifs are circular and semi-circular and two strips are joined to make the collar. Probably made in Paraguay, South America. Ñandutí lace is made on a foundation fabric, which is removed later. Lace making was introduced to Paraguay by the Spaniards in the mid 1600's.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1880-1900
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T15212
catalog number
T15212
accession number
290897

Province of Luxembourg Motif

This lion-and-crown motif was designed to represent the coat-of-arms of the Belgian province of Luxembourg. The Mechlin bobbin lace medallion was made by Belgian lace makers during World War I, and was likely intended to be inserted into a larger item.
Description
This lion-and-crown motif was designed to represent the coat-of-arms of the Belgian province of Luxembourg. The Mechlin bobbin lace medallion was made by Belgian lace makers during World War I, and was likely intended to be inserted into a larger item. See a similar motif in TE*E383965.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1914-1918
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T16115H
catalog number
T16115H
accession number
297965

Fan Leaf with Weaponry and Designer's Name

This fan leaf was designed for the Belgian Lace Committee by Belgian painter Charles Michel. His name is worked in needle lace into the ground (reseau) along the inner edge.
Description
This fan leaf was designed for the Belgian Lace Committee by Belgian painter Charles Michel. His name is worked in needle lace into the ground (reseau) along the inner edge. The central motif of helmet, swords and weaponry is flanked on either side by the war years 1914 and 1915. The rising sun, laurel leaves and other floral motifs are also included. Brussels bobbin lace was mainly used for the motifs and connected with Point de Gaze type needle lace. Belgian lace makers made this fan leaf during World War I. It has never been mounted to fan sticks.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1915-1916
part of design
1914
1915
maker
unknown
designer
Michel, Charles
ID Number
TE.T14505
catalog number
T14505
accession number
273245

Isidore de Rudder Designed Pillow Top

This pillow top was designed by the Belgian sculptor Isidore de Rudder (1855-1943).
Description
This pillow top was designed by the Belgian sculptor Isidore de Rudder (1855-1943). The design of starfish, crabs, and eels in seaweed with the central inscription “1914 Yzer 1915” commemorates a famous battle at the Yzer River, where Belgian engineers prevented the German troops from advancing by manipulating the locks on the Yzer River to flood the surrounding fields.
This pillow top in point de Venise style needle lace was made by Belgian lace makers during World War I. The pattern is preserved in the Royal Museum of Art and History in Brussels.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1915-1918
part of design
1915
1914
facilitator
Hoover, Herbert
designer
de Rudder, Isidore
ID Number
TE.E383966
catalog number
E383966
accession number
172208

French Rooster Motif

This example of Mechlin bobbin lace depicts a whimsical variant of the Gallic rooster, symbol of France. The motif was made by Belgian lace makers during World War I and was likely intended to be inserted into a larger item.Currently not on view
Description
This example of Mechlin bobbin lace depicts a whimsical variant of the Gallic rooster, symbol of France. The motif was made by Belgian lace makers during World War I and was likely intended to be inserted into a larger item.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1914-1918
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T16115F
catalog number
T16115F
accession number
297965

Bertha Collar in Mixed Brussels Bobbin and Needle Lace

This bertha collar is made in mixed Brussels needlepoint and bobbin lace techniques. The delicate rose motifs are made in needle lace and inserted in the dense floral designs made in bobbin lace.
Description
This bertha collar is made in mixed Brussels needlepoint and bobbin lace techniques. The delicate rose motifs are made in needle lace and inserted in the dense floral designs made in bobbin lace. It is made of cotton thread and probably dates from the late 19th to early 20th century.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1880-1910
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T13635
catalog number
T13635
accession number
263100

Brussels Bobbin Lace Appliqué Shawl

This triangular shawl is of Brussels bobbin lace appliqué over machine made net and is of very good quality. Small embellishment of needle lace enhances the mostly bobbin made floral and ribbon motifs. It was made in the 19th Century of cotton.Currently not on view
Description
This triangular shawl is of Brussels bobbin lace appliqué over machine made net and is of very good quality. Small embellishment of needle lace enhances the mostly bobbin made floral and ribbon motifs. It was made in the 19th Century of cotton.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1865-1870
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.E345008
accession number
107000
catalog number
E345008

Fingerless Mitt

This fingerless mitt, one of a pair, is handmade of white cotton in Chantilly style bobbin lace with floral motifs. A ribbon is added along the top edge. The back of the mitt is fastened with a small button.
Description
This fingerless mitt, one of a pair, is handmade of white cotton in Chantilly style bobbin lace with floral motifs. A ribbon is added along the top edge. The back of the mitt is fastened with a small button. The mitt matches TE*T14221B and was identified by the donor as lace made by Belgian lace makers during World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1914-1919
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T14221A
catalog number
T14221A
accession number
273245

Pillow Sham

This pillow sham is part of a set that includes TE*T14468A, the Augusta Virginia Banner Panel. The top of the pillow sham has sprigs of flowers in Brussels Duchesse bobbin lace with Alençon style needle lace ground and a strip of Venetian style needle lace.
Description
This pillow sham is part of a set that includes TE*T14468A, the Augusta Virginia Banner Panel. The top of the pillow sham has sprigs of flowers in Brussels Duchesse bobbin lace with Alençon style needle lace ground and a strip of Venetian style needle lace. The center is backed with fine, plain weave linen fabric divided into two panels to allow for the insertion of a pillow. It is closed with five buttons and buttonholes and edged with an insertion of Point de Paris bobbin lace. All lace and sewing was done by hand by Belgian lace makers during World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1915-1919
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T14468B
catalog number
T14468B
accession number
276575

Alençon Needle Lace Cuff

This cotton Alençon lace border or cuff from the late 19th century matches collar TE*T17893A and cuff TE*T17893B. In this set, horsehair is used to support the picots on the outside edge and some interior motifs. The entre-deux at the edge is made with Droschel bobbin lace.
Description
This cotton Alençon lace border or cuff from the late 19th century matches collar TE*T17893A and cuff TE*T17893B. In this set, horsehair is used to support the picots on the outside edge and some interior motifs. The entre-deux at the edge is made with Droschel bobbin lace. It is attributable to the Lefébure workshop, Bayeux, France, and the pattern for this collar is in Musée des Beaux-Arts et de la Dentelle, Alençon, France. See Bruggeman, Kant in Europa, (L'Europe de la Dentelle), 1997 p. 169, and Dépalle, Brigitte Delesques, La Dentelle à l'aiguille, p. 81
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1855-1900
made by workshop of Lefébure, Ernest
Lefébure, Ernest
ID Number
TE.T17893C
catalog number
T17893C
accession number
319013

Ruysselede Municipal Shield Motif

Part of a set of six, this Valenciennes bobbin lace medallion depicts the municipal shield of Ruysselede (Ruiselede) in the Belgian province of West Flanders.
Description
Part of a set of six, this Valenciennes bobbin lace medallion depicts the municipal shield of Ruysselede (Ruiselede) in the Belgian province of West Flanders. Other medallions, two with the American eagle, two with the Belgian lion coat-of-arms, and another with the municipal shield of Ruysselede complete the set. See a similar motif in TE*E383967. Belgian lace makers made these laces during World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1916-1918
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T14222C
catalog number
T14222C
accession number
273245

Mechlin Border

Motifs of tipped-over flowerpots were used for the design of this Mechlin bobbin lace border. The pattern repeat is three and one-half inches long, and a heavier cordonnet or gimp thread outlines the motifs.
Description
Motifs of tipped-over flowerpots were used for the design of this Mechlin bobbin lace border. The pattern repeat is three and one-half inches long, and a heavier cordonnet or gimp thread outlines the motifs. The donor identified this border as lace made by Belgian lace makers during World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1914-1918
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T14507
catalog number
T14507
accession number
273245

Alençon Needle Lace Collar

Grape and vine motifs with shadow effect decorate this cotton Alençon lace collar from the late 19th century. Horsehair is used to support picots on the outside edge and on some interior motifs. The entre-deux at the neck edge is made with Droschel bobbin lace.
Description
Grape and vine motifs with shadow effect decorate this cotton Alençon lace collar from the late 19th century. Horsehair is used to support picots on the outside edge and on some interior motifs. The entre-deux at the neck edge is made with Droschel bobbin lace. It is attributable to the Lefébure workshop, Bayeux, France, and the pattern for this collar is in Musée des Beaux-Arts et de la Dentelle, Alençon, France. See Bruggeman, Kant in Europa, (L'Europe de la Dentelle), 1997 p. 169, and Dépalle, Brigitte Delesques, La Dentelle à l'aiguille, p. 81. It matches cuffs or borders TE*T17893B and TE*T17893C.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1855-1900
designer
Lefebure, Ernest
designed and made by the workshop
Lefébure, Ernest
ID Number
TE.T17893A
catalog number
T17893A
accession number
319013

American Eagle Motif

Part of a set of six, this Valenciennes bobbin lace medallion focuses on the American eagle motif.
Description
Part of a set of six, this Valenciennes bobbin lace medallion focuses on the American eagle motif. Two other medallions with the Belgian lion coat-of-arms, two with the municipal shield of Ruysselede (Ruiselede) in the Belgian province of West Flanders; and another with the American eagle complete the set. See a similar motif in TE*E383967. Belgian lace makers made these laces during World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1916-1918
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T14222B
catalog number
T14222B
accession number
273245

Valenciennes Bobbin Lace Pattern and Sample

This set is a pattern of Valenciennes square mesh bobbin lace and a sample made from it. The pattern is drawn with ink (?) on parchment and appears to have been used as the pricking. Suggestions for working the pattern are written in French: "Laisser le bas.
Description
This set is a pattern of Valenciennes square mesh bobbin lace and a sample made from it. The pattern is drawn with ink (?) on parchment and appears to have been used as the pricking. Suggestions for working the pattern are written in French: "Laisser le bas. Claircir (?) les deux cercles. Laisser plus de jeu aux boules. Former le petit medaillon, le haut moins regulier". Extra threads are added to motifs and cut off. The design (no. 554) and sample for this 19th Century Brussels lace were purchased from G. Moens, Brussels, in 1921.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
late 19th century
maker
unknown
ID Number
2013.0121.29
accession number
2013.0121
catalog number
2013.0121.29

Valenciennes Border

The leaf pattern on this border is made in the Valenciennes square mesh bobbin lace technique in cotton thread. It has a two and one-half inch long pattern repeat. The edges are straight with picots on one side and unfinished ends.
Description
The leaf pattern on this border is made in the Valenciennes square mesh bobbin lace technique in cotton thread. It has a two and one-half inch long pattern repeat. The edges are straight with picots on one side and unfinished ends. It was identified by the donor as lace made by Belgian lace makers during World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1914-1918
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T14224
catalog number
T14224
accession number
273245

Cap Back in Point de Venise de Reseau Needle Lace

This cap crown is of Point de Venise de Reseau needle lace. The ground has been restored and the fine quality needlepoint motifs are now applied on machine made net. The lace dates originally from the early 18th century, and was remodelled in the late 19th to early 20th century.
Description
This cap crown is of Point de Venise de Reseau needle lace. The ground has been restored and the fine quality needlepoint motifs are now applied on machine made net. The lace dates originally from the early 18th century, and was remodelled in the late 19th to early 20th century. It compliments a matching lappet TE.L7693 and and border TE.L7694.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1700-1710
date repaired
1875-1925
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.L7695
catalog number
L7695
accession number
58000

Valenciennes Border

Floral motifs in the Valenciennes square mesh bobbin lace technique were used for this cotton lace border. The repeated pattern is four and three-eight inches long, and the ends are unfinished. The pattern is the same as in TE*T14225B, except for the scalloped edge.
Description
Floral motifs in the Valenciennes square mesh bobbin lace technique were used for this cotton lace border. The repeated pattern is four and three-eight inches long, and the ends are unfinished. The pattern is the same as in TE*T14225B, except for the scalloped edge. It was identified by the donor as lace made by Belgian lace makers during World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1914-1918
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T14225A
catalog number
T14225A
accession number
273245

Belgian War Lace pillow top with American Eagle, 1915-16

This panel was specifically designed to express appreciation to the Americans for their help during World War I. The entire panel was executed in fine Valenciennes style bobbin lace by Belgian lace makers.
Description
This panel was specifically designed to express appreciation to the Americans for their help during World War I. The entire panel was executed in fine Valenciennes style bobbin lace by Belgian lace makers. The American Eagle in the center is flanked by the coats-of-arms of Belgium and the municipality of Ruysselede (Ruiselede) in West Flanders. The inscription “AAN DE VEREENIGDE STATEN” (to the United States) is worked into the lace in the top border. “1914 HULDE EN DANK 1915” (1914 honor and thank you 1915) enhances the bottom border. The side borders contain the words “BELGIE” and “RUYSSELEDE” surrounded by floral designs.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1915-1916
part of design
1915
1914
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.E383967
catalog number
E383967
accession number
172208

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