Textiles

The 50,000 objects in the textile collections fall into two main categories: raw fibers, yarns, and fabrics, and machines, tools, and other textile technology. Shawls, coverlets, samplers, laces, linens, synthetics, and other fabrics are part of the first group, along with the 400 quilts in the National Quilt Collection. Some of the Museum's most popular artifacts, such as the Star-Spangled Banner and the gowns of the first ladies, have an obvious textile connection.

The machinery and tools include spinning wheels, sewing machines, thimbles, needlework tools, looms, and an invention that changed the course of American agriculture and society. A model of Eli Whitney's cotton gin, made by the inventor in the early 1800s, shows the workings of a machine that helped make cotton plantations profitable in the South and encouraged the spread of slavery.

Eliza Bennis appliqued her initials “EB” and date “1795” in the center of the outer border of this counterpane. Although in fragile condition, this appliqued and embroidered textile is noteworthy.
Description
Eliza Bennis appliqued her initials “EB” and date “1795” in the center of the outer border of this counterpane. Although in fragile condition, this appliqued and embroidered textile is noteworthy. The center panel (21+” high x 28+” wide) is an early Irish printed fabric known as “Irish Volunteers” or “Volunteer Furniture.” The copper-plate design, probably drawn by Gabriel Beranger, is a representation of a Provincial Review in Phoenix Park (June 1782) near Dublin. It was printed by Thomas Harpur at Leixlip, Ireland. This particular fabric may have held significance for Eliza as her husband, in 1779, was instrumental in the formation of a Limerick corps of Irish Volunteers.
Elizabeth (Eliza) was born in Limerick, Ireland, in 1725, daughter of Isaac and Alice Patten. Eliza married Mitchell Bennis (1720-1788) in 1745. They had four children that reached adulthood. Eliza is significant in the history of Methodism and corresponded with John Wesley, among others. Journal of Elizabeth Bennis 1749-1779, begun in her 20s, is an accounting of her spiritual progress after she joined the Methodist Society. In her later years she emigrated from Limerick to Philadelphia and possibly brought the “Irish Volunteers” fabric or counterpane with her. She died in 1802. In 1809 her son, Thomas, published a book of her correspondence.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1795
maker
Bennis, Eliza
ID Number
1985.0034.01
catalog number
1985.0034.01
accession number
1985.0034
Elizabeth Smedley made this silk quilt for the trousseau of her niece, Elizabeth Webster Smedley. She married Walter Brinton at Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, in 1891. Off white, grey, and tan are used to set off the simple design.
Description
Elizabeth Smedley made this silk quilt for the trousseau of her niece, Elizabeth Webster Smedley. She married Walter Brinton at Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, in 1891. Off white, grey, and tan are used to set off the simple design. Chevron pattern quilting is used for the vertical bands, and the border is quilted in a cable pattern. The whole imparts a quiet elegance typical of Quaker quilts of the 19th century.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1890-1891
maker
Smedley, Elizabeth Webster
ID Number
1984.1059.01
catalog number
1984.1059.01
accession number
1984.1059
Members of the Society of Friends, or Quakers, presented Hannah C. Nicholson with this album quilt made in 1843. She was 19 years old at the time and would shortly marry Howell Grave in 1845.
Description
Members of the Society of Friends, or Quakers, presented Hannah C. Nicholson with this album quilt made in 1843. She was 19 years old at the time and would shortly marry Howell Grave in 1845. A descendent wrote at the time of donation: “The quilt has been carefully tended since that time and regarded as an heirloom by our family.”
In the mid-nineteenth century, album quilts with inscriptions and signatures were often made to celebrate an important event, and provide a textile record of friends and family. The forty-one appliquéd blocks and one inked block on this quilt are inscribed with names, dates, and places. Names of Hannah’s paternal relatives, Nicholson, Miller, Biddle, and Parrish, predominate.
The quilt’s inscriptions indicate that some blocks were contributed by women in the name of relatives or young children, e.g. “for her brother” or “for her daughter.” When the block was for a son or daughter, the age was also added. The dates are given in the style of month, date and year with many of them just “8 Mo 1843.” Most of the places inked on the blocks are from the Philadelphia area, with a few from New Jersey (Woodbury, Bordentown, Pleasant Hill, and Salem). Although Hannah was born and lived in Indiana, her father was from New Jersey.
The quilt is composed of forty-nine pieced and appliquéd blocks. The blocks are made with glazed, unglazed, and roller-printed cottons. These were joined by a 2 ½-inch glazed printed-stripe sashing. The same printed cotton is used for the border, providing a cohesive grid-like framework for the blocks. The quilting pattern is an overall diagonal grid, quilted 8 or 9 stitches per inch.
Hannah C. Nicholson was born in Indiana on November 19, 1824, to John and Esther Nicholson. On August 14, 1845 Hannah married Howell Grave (1818-1894) in Wayne County, Indiana. Howell’s ancestors were among the earliest settlers of Indiana. His parents and grandparents arrived in the same year Indiana achieved statehood, 1816, and he was born there in 1818.
Howell and Hannah farmed in Wayne County and raised four children, three girls (Esther, Emma, and Josephine) and a son (Vernon). In the early 1860s they moved to Richmond, Indiana, where for twenty years Howell was one of the principal iron merchants in the city. By the mid-1880s he was in the insurance and real estate businesses. Two of their daughters are listed as teachers on the 1870 census, while Vernon continued to farm. After Hannah was widowed in 1894, she lived with her daughter and son-in-law in Wayne, Indiana. She died there on February 13, 1912, and is buried in the Earlham Cemetery Richmond, Indiana.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1843
maker
unknown
ID Number
1986.0657.01
catalog number
1986.0657.01
accession number
1986.0657
One block alphabet of 26 letters; numbers to 10. Alphabet and numbers colored in groups of two or three. Each word in inscription and each set of initials worked in different color. Flower basket, bird, eight-pointed star, and several flowering plants.
Description
One block alphabet of 26 letters; numbers to 10. Alphabet and numbers colored in groups of two or three. Each word in inscription and each set of initials worked in different color. Flower basket, bird, eight-pointed star, and several flowering plants. Border of simple geometric vine-and-leaf on top and two sides. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground. STITCHES: cross. THREAD COUNT: warp 24, weft 29/in.
Inscription:
"SARAH YARD IN H
ER SEVENTH YEAR
Y SM MAY
J S MAY GMY JY"
Background:
Sarah was born in 1809 to John and Sarah McKimson Yard in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. She married Alexander Cummings in 1836, and they had six children—Mary B., Alfred, Sarah Ellen, Charles Thomas, Alexander M., and John. Alexander was a general in the Union Army during the Civil War, and then governor of the Colorado Territory from 1865 to 1867. He died in Canada, but was buried in Philadelphia. Sarah died in Washington, D.C., on August 28, 1887, and is also buried in Philadelphia. The initials on her sampler may be family members, father, mother, grandfather, grandmother Mary Ann Yard, sister Mary Ann Yard, brother George Mickerson Yard, and brother John Yard.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1815-1816
maker
Yard, Sarah
ID Number
TE.H14388
catalog number
H14388
accession number
55589
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1810-1827
1810-1826
ID Number
TE.T16342
catalog number
T16342.000
accession number
298683
Daniel Mills, of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Patent model for a machine to sew buttonholes. Patent No. 265,850 Issued October 10 1882. Buttonhole Sewing Machine.Currently not on view
Description
Daniel Mills, of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Patent model for a machine to sew buttonholes. Patent No. 265,850 Issued October 10 1882. Buttonhole Sewing Machine.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
before 1882-10-10
inventor
Mills, Daniel
ID Number
TE.T06598
patent number
265850
catalog number
T.6598
accession number
89797
Spindle and Flyer Patent ModelPatent No. 781, issued June 12, 1838Richard E.
Description
Spindle and Flyer Patent Model
Patent No. 781, issued June 12, 1838
Richard E. Yerkes of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
According to his patent specification, Yerkes patented “the revolving arrangement and combination of the sliding shaft, with the broach, or with the spool, for the purpose of removing and renewing the latter . . . .” The action of the sliding shaft enabled the operator to remove and change the spool when the spring was pressed down. In addition, he patented the ring in combination with the flyers that distributed the yarn on the spool. Yerkes intended his improvements to be used on machines for spinning cotton and other fibers.
Location
Currently not on view
model constructed
before 1838-06-12
patent date
1838-06-12
inventor
Yerkes, Richard E.
ID Number
TE.T11420.080
catalog number
T11420.080
accession number
89797
patent number
781
An intriguing note came with this framed medallion quilt when it was donated: “The Quaker Quilt. Phil.
Description
An intriguing note came with this framed medallion quilt when it was donated: “The Quaker Quilt. Phil. ca 1840 made for wedding of bride of early Philadelphia Quaker Abolitionist of pieces from the gowns of her trousseau.” Unfortunately there is no indication of the quilt maker or ownership.
The focus of the 41-inch central square, “Star of Bethlehem,” is set off by a 5-inch octagonal border. Additional pieced and plain borders frame this variation of a medallion-style quilt. The beige, tan, brown, rust, and light grey silks and satins utilized for the pattern would be typical of the Quaker esthetic and period. The quilt is lined with roller printed cottons and filled with wool. It is quilted with a variety of geometric patterns (grid, diagonal, chevron, and parallel lines), feathered and flowering vines in the borders, and a spray of flowers in the corner squares. This quilt is a precisely designed example of Quaker quilts in the mid-19th century.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1835-1845
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.E388880
accession number
182022
catalog number
E388880
“Mary W. Stow,” embroidered in red, is prominent on this patriotic quilt made of fabrics commemorating the 1876 Centennial in Philadelphia. The motifs were cut from bandannas that were printed as souvenirs of the event, and then appliquéd on white cotton.
Description
“Mary W. Stow,” embroidered in red, is prominent on this patriotic quilt made of fabrics commemorating the 1876 Centennial in Philadelphia. The motifs were cut from bandannas that were printed as souvenirs of the event, and then appliquéd on white cotton. Most of the motifs are edged with a button-hole stitch using red cotton. Printed fabrics with patriotic motifs were popular in America before the 1876 Centennial, but the major exhibition in Philadelphia provided textile companies with an incentive to produce many new fabrics for the event. Several of these can be found on the quilt.
The central motif depicts the Memorial Hall Art Gallery at the Centennial International Exhibition at Fairmont Park, Philadelphia. The Main Exhibition Building, Machinery Hall, Agricultural Hall, and the Horticultural Hall are circular motifs. These all originally appeared on one bandanna. There are flags of many nations, most likely cut from a printed textile. Cut-out portraits on printed fabric of George and Martha Washington, William Penn, Thomas Jefferson, Benjamin Franklin, and Ulysses Grant are among the motifs. Democratic candidates for president and vice-president, Samuel J. Tilden and Thomas A. Hendricks, and their Republican counterparts, Rutherford Hayes and William A. Wheeler, appear in separate motifs.
Mary W. Stow lived in Wisconsin, and included on her quilt printed pictures of the capitol building at Madison, Wisconsin and Harrison Ludington (1812-1891), governor of Wisconsin from 1876 to 1878.
Motifs also include inked drawings of the Hingham, Massachusetts, First Meeting House, the Bunker Hill Monument, the Liberty Bell, the Charter Oak, Trinity Church, and Independence Hall. Several motifs have the printed or inked date “1876.”
The border makes use of patriotic colors. A 1½-inch inner band of blue striped cotton with white stars is framed by an outer 1¾-inch band of red cotton. Quilting, 9 stitches per inch, outlines the appliquéd motifs. The border is quilted with a feathered vine and 1-inch diamond quilting fills the background.
The patriotic theme is carried to the lining of the quilt. In the center of the back is a bandanna with the printed text of the Declaration of Independence and facsimiles of the signatures of the signers. These are framed by the Liberty Bell and seals of the thirteen colonies, linked by names of the Revolutionary patriots.
Mary Williams Loomis was born on April 8, 1820, in Brownville, Jefferson County, New York. The daughter of General Thomas Loomis, she married Marcellus Kent Stow (1806-1871) on October 5, 1837, in Buffalo, New York. They moved to Fond du Lac, Wisconsin, in 1852 where Marcellus was a business man, practiced law, and was a county judge.
Marcellus had followed his brother, Alexander, to Wisconsin from New York and together they had platted subdivisions that provided a plan for the city’s growth. Their father, Silas Stow, was a congressman from New York during the War of 1812. Mary and Marcellus reared five children, two girls and three boys.
Mary was also active in the Fond du Lac community. She was a foundering member of the Fond du Lac Relief Society, established in 1873 following the great forest fires of 1872 that destroyed several areas in Wisconsin. The establishment and management of a “Home for the Friendless” or “The Home” was a result of the fund-raising labors of this organization. Operating well into the twentieth century “The Home” provided a refuge for those in need, particularly the elderly, who did not have other resources. Although widowed, Mary still lived in Fond du Lac at the time of the Philadelphia 1876 Centennial. She may have visited the Exhibition and made this quilt as a reminder of the event. Her son, James W. Stow (1853-1913), lived in Washington, D.C., and Fond du Lac, Wisconsin. It was in Washington, D.C., on June 13, 1898, that Mary died.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1876
maker
Stow, Mary W.
ID Number
TE.T15703
accession number
297870
catalog number
T15703
Three block alphabets. No "J"; numbers to 18 and to 9; alphabets and numbers colored in groups of two.
Description
Three block alphabets. No "J"; numbers to 18 and to 9; alphabets and numbers colored in groups of two. Rows of lettering and numbers separated by geometric crossbands; also two wide crossbands; one geometric strawberry vine, and one geometric vine with free-style roses, with guide-lines drawn under roses. At bottom of sampler, stag and doe on hillocks, surrounded by birds, butterflies, trees, flowers, under angular garland; stag and doe have satin-stitched collars. Name and date appear in flower-shaped medallion hanging from garland. Border of band of sawtoothed satin stitch and geometric carnation vine on all four sides. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground. STITCHES: cross, crosslet, stem, satin, Algerian eye, straight, bullion. THREAD COUNT: warp 36, weft 29/in.
Inscriptions:
"See How The Lillief[s] Flour White And Fair
See How the Ravenf[s] Fed From Heavenf[s] Air
Arif[s]e Thou King of Kingf[s] Arif[s]e And Reign
Except Thy Worf[s]hip SprinG All Worf[s]hipf[s] Vain
Elizabeth
Maf[s]On her
WOrk Ma
de
in the 11
Year Of
her ag
1783"
Background:
Elizabeth Mason was probably from the Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, area.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1783
maker
Mason, Elizabeth
ID Number
TE.E391808
catalog number
E391808
accession number
71679
Booklet: "CRAZY PATCHWORK. ALL THE NEW FANCY STITCHES ILLUSTRATED AND PLAIN INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING THE PATCHWORK. Price, - 25 Cents.
Description
Booklet: "CRAZY PATCHWORK. ALL THE NEW FANCY STITCHES ILLUSTRATED AND PLAIN INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING THE PATCHWORK. Price, - 25 Cents. PUBLISHED BY STRAWBRIDGE & CLOTHIER, Eighth & Market Sts., Philadelphia; COPYRIGHT 1884 BY STARWBRIDGE & CLOTHIER." It contains a page of general instructions and six pages of transfer patterns to be dampened and pressed with a hot iron. These are motifs for embroidery and designs for edging the patches.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1884
maker
Strawbridge & Clothier
ID Number
TE.T13529.00A
catalog number
T13529.00A
Seven appliqued quilt blocks of the type found in album quilts. Each of plain-weave white cotton fabric appliqued with a four-armed conventionalized floral motif cut from printed cottons with red grounds.
Description
Seven appliqued quilt blocks of the type found in album quilts. Each of plain-weave white cotton fabric appliqued with a four-armed conventionalized floral motif cut from printed cottons with red grounds. The center of each appliqued motif is cut out, providing space on the white ground-fabric for writing a name. Five different printed fabrics have been used for the applique. Blocks D and E are of the same fabric.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1840-1860
associated dates
1840 00 00+ / 1840 00 00+, 1860 00 00- / 1860 00 00-
maker
unknown
ID Number
1990.0667.12A-G
accession number
1990.0667
catalog number
1990.0667.12A-G

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