Textiles

Coverlet

The 50,000 objects in the textile collections fall into two main categories: raw fibers, yarns, and fabrics, and machines, tools, and other textile technology. Shawls, coverlets, samplers, laces, linens, synthetics, and other fabrics are part of the first group, along with the 400 quilts in the National Quilt Collection. Some of the Museum's most popular artifacts, such as the Star-Spangled Banner and the gowns of the first ladies, have an obvious textile connection.

The machinery and tools include spinning wheels, sewing machines, thimbles, needlework tools, looms, and an invention that changed the course of American agriculture and society. A model of Eli Whitney's cotton gin, made by the inventor in the early 1800s, shows the workings of a machine that helped make cotton plantations profitable in the South and encouraged the spread of slavery.

Date: 1910s

American Woolen Co. Suiting sample, 1912

American Woolen Co. all worsted mixture Suiting fabric sample in very dark gray, 1912Manufactured by the National and Providence Worsted Mills, Providence, RI.
Description
American Woolen Co. all worsted mixture Suiting fabric sample in very dark gray, 1912
Manufactured by the National and Providence Worsted Mills, Providence, RI. The Providence and National Worsted Mills, founded in Rhode Island in the 1870s, were originally two companies owned by Charles Fletcher, one a spinning and one a weaving mill for working with worsted yarns. Fletcher amalgamated the two companies into one in 1893, and then sold this company to the large Lawrence-based American Woolen Company in 1899. When the Lawrence mill workers struck against pay cuts in 1912 (the Bread and Roses strike), the American Woolen Company was one of the firms affected. The Rhode Island mills, however, did not strike.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1912
maker
National and Providence Worsted Mills
ID Number
TE.T00230
catalog number
T00230.000
accession number
54882

A H Straus and Co 'Luxor Taffeta' dress silk, Peruvian design; 1917.

A H Straus & Co 'Luxor Taffeta' dress silk, Peruvian-inspired allover design; 1917. Luxor taffeta. A lustrous reversible discharge printed fabric with the design taken from a woven tissue of ancient Peru. Shows fantastical geometric forms.
Description
A H Straus & Co 'Luxor Taffeta' dress silk, Peruvian-inspired allover design; 1917. Luxor taffeta. A lustrous reversible discharge printed fabric with the design taken from a woven tissue of ancient Peru. Shows fantastical geometric forms. Colors include green, cerise, gold, and blue on a black ground. Overall effect is of alternating wavy and zigzagging patterned horizontal bands.
A. H. Straus and Co. was active in the 1910s and 1920s. The company was based in New York City and was a premier importer and manufacturer of printed silks. Many fabric lengths in this collection have prints copied from ancient textiles.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1917
ID Number
TE.T02553.000
accession number
61633
catalog number
T02553.000

Six skeins Japan tram silk, dyed; National Silk Dyeing Co., 1915

Six skeins of thrown silk: eight thread Japan tram, dyed; National Silk Dyeing Co., 1915. Thrown silk: eight thread Japan Tram dyed--used in knitting hosiery, weaving braids, etc. Colors: pink, light blue, yellow red, green, and black.
Description
Six skeins of thrown silk: eight thread Japan tram, dyed; National Silk Dyeing Co., 1915. Thrown silk: eight thread Japan Tram dyed--used in knitting hosiery, weaving braids, etc. Colors: pink, light blue, yellow red, green, and black. Part of a donation of 63 samples representing the processes of silk skein-dyeing, and silk piece-dyeing and printing, given by the National Silk Dyeing Co of Paterson, New Jersey, in 1915. National Silk Dyeing Co., headquartered at 140 Market St., Paterson, NJ was formed from five silk dyeing firms in Peterson, NJ (Auger & Simon Silk Dyeing Company; Emil Geering Silk Dyeing Co., Knipscher & Maas Silk Dyeing Company, Kearns Brothers, and Gaede Silk Dyeing Co.) and a fifth company from Allentown, Pa. (Lotte Brothers under the leadership of Charles I. Auger. National Silk Dyeing immediately became one of the large silk dyeing conglomerates in the nation. It operated into the Great Depression but was eventually broken up and sold off.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1915
maker
National Silk Dyeing Co.
ID Number
TE.T02797.000
catalog number
T02797.000
accession number
58940
catalog number
T2797

Chantilly Bobbin Lace Motif

One of a set of six identical curved stylized cone or paisley shaped black silk Chantilly bobbin lace appliqués or insertions. The attached paper tag states "131, 6 pieces, No 10/55, Chantilly, made by hand in Flanders for the C'on for Relief in Belgium, M. Kefer Mali".
Description
One of a set of six identical curved stylized cone or paisley shaped black silk Chantilly bobbin lace appliqués or insertions. The attached paper tag states "131, 6 pieces, No 10/55, Chantilly, made by hand in Flanders for the C'on for Relief in Belgium, M. Kefer Mali". Each piece is labeled "10/55, $.45 each". Madame Kefer-Mali was one of four women on the Lace Committee working with the Commission for Relief in Belgium. The lace was made by Belgian lace makers during World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1914-1918
made during
1914-1918
Helped create Commission for Relief in Belgium
Hoover, Herbert
previous owner
Kefer-Mali, M.
maker
unknown
ID Number
2013.0121.42
accession number
2013.0121
catalog number
2013.0121.42

Sample of European-made white cotton cloth; step one in the Javanese batik process, 1915

Plain weave white cotton cloth sample; step one in the Javanese batik process, 1915. This cloth is industrially produced and imported from Europe to Java, where it is used as the basis for the production of batiks. Approximately 10" x 12".
Description
Plain weave white cotton cloth sample; step one in the Javanese batik process, 1915. This cloth is industrially produced and imported from Europe to Java, where it is used as the basis for the production of batiks. Approximately 10" x 12". First in a set of 14 process samples together with 22 finished items made by prisoners in Java for display at the 1915 Panama-Pacific International Exposition in San Francisco. Purchased by the US National Museum for the Division of Textiles from the Netherlands East Indies Commission at the close of the Exposition.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1914-1915
ID Number
TE.T02906.000
catalog number
T02906.00A
T02906.00B
accession number
59191

Bobbin Lace Insertion Sample Made in China

This sample of handmade torchon bobbin lace insertion has motifs with tallies and half stitch trails. It was made at the Amoy Lace Guild in China and sold for twenty cents per yard in US gold in 1913.
Description
This sample of handmade torchon bobbin lace insertion has motifs with tallies and half stitch trails. It was made at the Amoy Lace Guild in China and sold for twenty cents per yard in US gold in 1913. The Amoy Lace Guild was established by missionaries in 1885 as a charitable organization to provide a source of income to indigent Chinese women and children. Patterns and linen thread was imported from England and Ireland. Lace from the Amoy Lace Guild won a silver medal at the St. Louis exposition in 1904.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1905-1912
1900-1912
maker
Amoy Lace Guild
ID Number
TE.T00928
catalog number
T00928.000
accession number
55643

Cheney Brothers Printed Silk Satin, 1913

Length of Cheney Brothers printed silk satin fabric.
Description (Brief)
Length of Cheney Brothers printed silk satin fabric. Japanese-inspired pattern of cherry blossom sprays in white, gray and pink on a lavender-pink ground with a variety of interspersed cartouche shapes, framing natural scenes of ducks, nesting bird with peonies, boat, and a lake/harbor scene with mountains in the distance. (W. 30 in., L. 36 in.)
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1913
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T00061
catalog number
T00061.000
accession number
55080

Amoy Lace Guild Bobbin Lace Sample

This sample of handmade torchon style bobbin lace insertion has roseground and leaves arranged as spokes. It was made at the Amoy Lace Guild in China and sold for twenty cents per yard in US gold in 1913.
Description
This sample of handmade torchon style bobbin lace insertion has roseground and leaves arranged as spokes. It was made at the Amoy Lace Guild in China and sold for twenty cents per yard in US gold in 1913. The Amoy Lace Guild was established by missionaries in 1885 as a charitable organization to provide a source of income to indigent Chinese women and children. Patterns and linen thread was imported from England and Ireland. Lace from the Amoy Lace Guild won a silver medal at the St. Louis exposition in 1904.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1905-1912
1900-1912
maker
Amoy Lace Guild
ID Number
TE.T00936
catalog number
T00936.000
accession number
55643

Cheney Brothers Printed "Showerproof Foulard", 1913

Length of Cheney Brothers Showerproof Foulard. Silk. Lightweight 2-up, 2-down twill weave. Design of small pairs of double-ended fleur de lis in white on blue ground. Printed. (W. 23 in., L. 36 in.)Currently not on view
Description (Brief)
Length of Cheney Brothers Showerproof Foulard. Silk. Lightweight 2-up, 2-down twill weave. Design of small pairs of double-ended fleur de lis in white on blue ground. Printed. (W. 23 in., L. 36 in.)
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1913
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T00054
catalog number
T00054.000
accession number
55080

Sample of waxed cotton cloth scraped for red dye bath; step ten in the Javanese batik process, 1915

Sample of waxed cotton cloth scraped for red dye bath; step ten in the Javanese batik process, 1915.
Description
Sample of waxed cotton cloth scraped for red dye bath; step ten in the Javanese batik process, 1915. Approximately 10" x 12"; Design has a central butterfly motif surrounded by scrolling ferns and curlicues; with four outer borders.This sample has had the wax scraped from the parts to be dyed red, in preparation for the next dye bath. Step ten in a set of 14 process samples together with 22 finished items, made by prisoners in Java for display at the 1915 Panama-Pacific Exposition in San Francisco. Purchased by the US National Museum for the Division of Textiles from the Netherlands East Indies Commission at the close of the Exposition.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1914-1915
ID Number
TE.T02915.000
catalog number
T02915.000
accession number
59191

Ardoye Orphanage Tablecover

This round linen table cover contains the inscription “1915 ARDOYE - KLOOSTER DER H. KINDERSHEID VAN JESUS – WEESKINDEREN” (1915 Ardoye - Convent of the Holy Childhood of Jesus - Orphans) in the center.
Description
This round linen table cover contains the inscription “1915 ARDOYE - KLOOSTER DER H. KINDERSHEID VAN JESUS – WEESKINDEREN” (1915 Ardoye - Convent of the Holy Childhood of Jesus - Orphans) in the center. Ardoye (Ardooie) is in West Flanders, Belgium, in the area where the German army used poison gas for the first time on the western front in the second battle of Ypres in 1915.
The table cover is centered with bobbin lace. Bruges flower lace as well as tape lace and braided mesh techniques were utilized by the Belgian lace makers, who made this during World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1915-1918
part of design
1915
facilitator
Hoover, Herbert
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.E383962
catalog number
E383962
accession number
172208

Cheney Brothers "Silk Velours", 1913

Length of Cheney Brothers "Silk Velours" in deep red. Construction; silk pile warp , cotton ground warp and weft. pile weave, solid cut pile; pile length is slightly longer than regular velvet but not quite a plush. Piece dyed garnet red. (W. 53 in., L.
Description (Brief)
Length of Cheney Brothers "Silk Velours" in deep red. Construction; silk pile warp , cotton ground warp and weft. pile weave, solid cut pile; pile length is slightly longer than regular velvet but not quite a plush. Piece dyed garnet red. (W. 53 in., L. 36 in.)
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1913
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T00073
catalog number
T00073.000
accession number
55080

Skein of Raw Silk, Manchuria, Cheney Brothers, 1913

Skein of Raw Silk, Manchuria, Cheney Brothers, 1913. 1 skein. Part of gift illustrating all the steps in making silk textiles at the Cheney Brothers mill in South Manchester, CT. Sales offices: 4th Ave. and 18th St., New York CityCurrently not on view
Description (Brief)
Skein of Raw Silk, Manchuria, Cheney Brothers, 1913. 1 skein. Part of gift illustrating all the steps in making silk textiles at the Cheney Brothers mill in South Manchester, CT. Sales offices: 4th Ave. and 18th St., New York City
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1913
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T00114.000
catalog number
T00114.000
accession number
55080
catalog number
T114

Amoy Lace Guild Bobbin Lace Sample

This sample of handmade cluny style bobbin lace insertion has leaves and braids in sunflower motifs. It was made at the Amoy Lace Guild in China and sold for thirty-five cents per yard in US gold in 1913.
Description
This sample of handmade cluny style bobbin lace insertion has leaves and braids in sunflower motifs. It was made at the Amoy Lace Guild in China and sold for thirty-five cents per yard in US gold in 1913. The Amoy Lace Guild was established by missionaries in 1885 as a charitable organization to provide a source of income to indigent Chinese women and children. Patterns and linen thread was imported from England and Ireland. Lace from the Amoy Lace Guild won a silver medal at the St. Louis exposition in 1904.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1905-1912
1900-1912
maker
Amoy Lace Guild
ID Number
TE.T00933
catalog number
T00933.000
accession number
55643

Cheney Brothers printed Florentine silk; 1916

Sample cut of a Cheney Brothers printed Florentine silk. A thin, lightweight plain weave silk printed with a conventionalized fringed-petal flower and spiky leaf design with bands of craquelure in the background, on a black ground.
Description
Sample cut of a Cheney Brothers printed Florentine silk. A thin, lightweight plain weave silk printed with a conventionalized fringed-petal flower and spiky leaf design with bands of craquelure in the background, on a black ground. Print colors: light blue, pink, light brown, green, gray,
Original cataloging: Printed Florentine silk. A light spun-silk filled pongee. Floral pattern in 7 colors on a black ground. Width: 32"
Grouping for this design includes the original painted design, the enlarged design sheets for creating the pantograph plates, and the plates for transferring the design to the copper rollers or cylinders.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1916
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T02834.000
catalog number
T02834.000
accession number
59368

American Eagle and Belgian Lion Table Scarf

Both ends of this table scarf are decorated with the seals of the United States and Belgium.
Description
Both ends of this table scarf are decorated with the seals of the United States and Belgium. A cornucopia spilling from the US shield to the Belgian shield symbolizes generosity from the American people toward the Belgian people.
The table scarf, with delicate handmade floral designs of Point de Gaze needle lace and mixed Brussels bobbin and needle lace, is appliquéd to machine made net. Belgian lace makers made this during World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
made during
1914-1919
facilitator
Hoover, Herbert
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.E383968
catalog number
E383968
accession number
172208

Fine Thread Tatted Collar

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1916
ID Number
TE.T03760A
catalog number
T03760.00A
accession number
61066

Skein of Raw Silk, Italian, Cheney Brothers, 1913

Skein of Raw Silk, Italian, Cheney Brothers, 1913. Yellow. 1 skein. Part of gift illustrating all the steps in making silk textiles at the Cheney Brothers mill in South Manchester, CT. Sales offices: 4th Ave. and 18th St., New York CityCurrently not on view
Description (Brief)
Skein of Raw Silk, Italian, Cheney Brothers, 1913. Yellow. 1 skein. Part of gift illustrating all the steps in making silk textiles at the Cheney Brothers mill in South Manchester, CT. Sales offices: 4th Ave. and 18th St., New York City
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1913
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T00113.000
catalog number
T00113.000
accession number
55080
catalog number
T113

T. H. McCool & Co Airograph-printed dress silk; 1914.

T. H. McCool & Co "Airograph printed" Crepe de Chine silk fabric length; 1914. Airograph printed crepe de chine. Plain off white material bordered with an 8.5 inch wide band of a multi-colored floral design on a black ground. 14 inch horizontal repeat.
Description
T. H. McCool & Co "Airograph printed" Crepe de Chine silk fabric length; 1914. Airograph printed crepe de chine. Plain off white material bordered with an 8.5 inch wide band of a multi-colored floral design on a black ground. 14 inch horizontal repeat. Design of wheat and flowers. Airograph work by The Decorus Manufacturing Company. The black border is significantly more stiff than the ground cloth, which is a semi-transparent plain weave.
T. H. McCool and Company is the successor firm, as of 1914, to Alfred K. Wright and Company; both companies in the business of converting silks (i.e. buying gray goods and having them printed or finished) factored by Passavant & Co. McCool had been connected with the Wright company for many years prior to taking it over. This donation encompassed examples of "airograph work" on various silks, said to be akin to products coming from Lyons, France. The airograph, or spray-print, or airbrushing, process was done by Decorous Manufacturing & Co of New York City. Acording to the Annual report on this donation, the machine used to create these designs was the first machine of its kind to be imported to the United States, and it was a gift.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1914
ID Number
TE.T02164.000
accession number
57318
catalog number
T02164.000

Javanese batik table cover for the Western market, 1915

Javanese batik table cover for the Western market, 1915. Original cataloging identifies the pattern as "Pisang bali", in brown and blue on a white ground, and the price as 11 F. or $4.40. Design is quite open, symmetrical around the four quarters of the square cloth.
Description
Javanese batik table cover for the Western market, 1915. Original cataloging identifies the pattern as "Pisang bali", in brown and blue on a white ground, and the price as 11 F. or $4.40. Design is quite open, symmetrical around the four quarters of the square cloth. Large central lobed medallion with arc and floral motifs. One of 22 finished batik textiles, together with 14 process samples, made by prisoners in Java for exhibition at the 1915 Panama-Pacific Exposition in San Francisco. Purchased by the US National Museum for the Division of Textiles from the Netherlands East Indies Commission at the close of the Exposition.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1914-1915
ID Number
TE.T02929.000
catalog number
T02929.000
accession number
59191

Cheney Brothers Silk furnishing fabric, Louis XVI style, 1913

Cheney Brothers silk furnishing fabric, Louis XVI style, 1913. Heavy jacquard-woven compound satin weave for use in upholstery. Pattern is a reproduction of a Rococo into Neo-Classical French fabric from a Marie Antoinette chair.
Description (Brief)
Cheney Brothers silk furnishing fabric, Louis XVI style, 1913. Heavy jacquard-woven compound satin weave for use in upholstery. Pattern is a reproduction of a Rococo into Neo-Classical French fabric from a Marie Antoinette chair. Design features gold and tan musical instruments and wreaths in decorative C-scroll frames and foliate meanders on a pale blue satin ground. (W. 50 in., L. 36 in.) Possibly based on, but not a complete reproduction of, the silk designed by Phillippe de LaSalle for the bedroom of Marie Antoinette at Fontainebleu. Mfrs. #s: Com. 4294; No. 56538; Color 2926/1
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1913
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T01052.000
catalog number
T01052.000

1890 - 1910 Reversible Pieced Quilt

One side of this reversible crib or child’s quilt is pieced in the “Flying Geese” pattern. Rows of 4 ¾-inch triangles alternate with 3-inch strips of printed cotton. The other side is composed of 2 ½-inch strips of 3 different printed cottons.
Description
One side of this reversible crib or child’s quilt is pieced in the “Flying Geese” pattern. Rows of 4 ¾-inch triangles alternate with 3-inch strips of printed cotton. The other side is composed of 2 ½-inch strips of 3 different printed cottons. It is machine pieced and machine quilted (18 stitches per inch). A diamond quilting pattern was formed by a 1 ½-inch diagonal grid. The binding is a 5/8-inch bias strip of roller-printed cotton folded over the edge and machine-stitched through all layers.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1890-1910
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T17333.000
catalog number
T17333.000
accession number
321804

Cheney Brothers Silk "Grisaille", 1913

Length of Cheney Brothers all silk 'Grisaille' apparel fabric. A balanced plain weave with slightly irregular weft. Yarn dyed, with white warp and black weft giving a changeable gray surface effect with a medium sheen. (W. 32 in., L. 1-1/2 yd.).
Description (Brief)
Length of Cheney Brothers all silk 'Grisaille' apparel fabric. A balanced plain weave with slightly irregular weft. Yarn dyed, with white warp and black weft giving a changeable gray surface effect with a medium sheen. (W. 32 in., L. 1-1/2 yd.). Similar color effect to another Cheney piece, titled Bengal Pongee, but without the warp strie and in a slightly heavier weight.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1913
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T00034
catalog number
T00034.000
accession number
55080

Javanese batik kain or wrapper, 1914

Javanese batik kain or wrapper, Collector date = 1914. Plain weave cotton; Javanese wrapped garment made of a long strip of cotton cloth decorated with batik.
Description
Javanese batik kain or wrapper, Collector date = 1914. Plain weave cotton; Javanese wrapped garment made of a long strip of cotton cloth decorated with batik. Batik pattern in brown and indigo blue with diagonal bands in a repeating geometric design, with narrow floral, bird, and butterfly patterned scallop-edged borders on one long side and one short end. 102" L x 42" W. Selvage width. Typical Central Javanese court pattern and coloring.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca. 1914
1914
ID Number
TE.T04322.000
catalog number
T04322.000
accession number
67243

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