Textiles - Overview

The 50,000 objects in the textile collections fall into two main categories: raw fibers, yarns, and fabrics, and machines, tools, and other textile technology. Shawls, coverlets, samplers, laces, linens, synthetics, and other fabrics are part of the first group, along with the 400 quilts in the National Quilt Collection. Some of the Museum's most popular artifacts, such as the Star-Spangled Banner and the gowns of the first ladies, have an obvious textile connection.
The machinery and tools include spinning wheels, sewing machines, thimbles, needlework tools, looms, and an invention that changed the course of American agriculture and society. A model of Eli Whitney's cotton gin, made by the inventor in the early 1800s, shows the workings of a machine that helped make cotton plantations profitable in the South and encouraged the spread of slavery.
"Textiles - Overview" showing 16 items.
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1800 - 1815 Indigo Wool Quilt
- Description
- This example of an early 19th-century whole cloth quilt has an unusual design. Four sprays of large flowers, leaves, and clusters of berries begin in each of the corners and meet in the center of the quilt. They are framed by a wide scrolling vine with a 2 ½ -inch feathered band along the outer edge.
- The fabric for this quilt was dyed blue with indigo, one of the oldest dyes used for textiles. Glazing, a process involving the use of a hot press on wool fabric, resulted in a smooth, lustrous fabric surface.
- The motifs in the design are all outline quilted, 8-9 stitches/inch. The background, parallel diagonal lines quilted ¼-inch apart, further enhances the overall design. The lining is a tan and blue plaid wool/cotton fabric. There is no binding the front and lining are turned in and sewn with a running stitch.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- date made
- 1800-1815
- maker
- unknown
- ID Number
- 1981.1020.08
- catalog number
- 1981.1020.08
- accession number
- 1981.1020
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Elizabeth Shermer's Sampler
- Description
- One lower-case alphabet; six block alphabets; 26 letters. Numbers 1 through 17. Three practice eyelets, one worked in red cotton, two worked in red wool. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground. STITCHES: cross, tent, four-sided, eyelet, upright cross. THREAD COUNT: warp 26, weft 39/in.
- Inscription:
- "Elizabeth Shermer's
work done in the
eleventh year of her
age
1833"
- Background:
- This may be the Elizabeth Shermer who was born to Anthony and Anna Barbara Diehl Shermer of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. The sixth alphabet on her sampler is very unusual and has been found on other Pennsylvania samplers.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- Date made
- 1833
- maker
- Shermer, Elizabeth
- ID Number
- 1985.0856.01
- accession number
- 1985.0856
- catalog number
- 1985.0856.01
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Adaline Ann Williams's Sampler
- Description
- Block upper-case alphabet all one color. Block lower-case alphabet all one color. Script alphabet all one color, no "J." Numbers 1 through 9. Rows separated by simple geometric crossbands. At bottom of sampler, three strawberry plants with brown and white seed stitches decorating strawberries. In lower right corner, floral swag with cords and tassels above patterned basket of flowers. Simple geometric border on all four sides. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground. STITCHES: cross, crosslet, seed. THREAD COUNT: warp 25, weft 24/in.
- Inscriptions:
- "Adaline Ann Williams Aged 12 Years Done
In The 35th Year Of The Independence Of The
United States Of America July 24th AD 1810.
- Bef[s]et with snares on every hand
In lifes uncertain path I stand
Saviour divine diffuse thy light
To guide my doubtful footsteps right
Engage this roving treach'rous heart
Great God to chuse the better part
To scorn the trifles of a day
For joys that none can take away"
- Background:
- This is probably the Adaline Ann who was born on July 16, 1798, in Hartford, Connecticut, to John and Sarah Powers Williams. She married John Bois Turner on September 25, 1855.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- Date made
- 1810
- maker
- Williams, Adaline Ann
- ID Number
- 1988.0831.02
- accession number
- 1988.0831
- catalog number
- 1988.0831.02
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Mary W. Tyler's Sampler
- Description
- Two block alphabets. Upper-case alphabet has 26 letters; lower-case alphabet has no "J." One script alphabet with no "J" or "U." Numbers 1 through 14. Border of a vine with triangular flowers or leaves. Silk embroidery thread on linsey-woolsey; blue linen warp, tan wool weft. STITCHES: cross, Algerian eye, hem. THREAD COUNT: warp 27, weft 26/in.
- Inscription:
- "Embroidry [sic] decks
The canvas round
And yields a pleasing view
So virtue tends
to deck the mind
and form its blisful [sic] state
Mary W Tyler aged 12 years
- Background:
- This may have been made by Mary Welles Tyler, born on April 2, 1792, to Nathan and Nancy Tyler, or by Mary Whitwell Tyler, born on June 23, 1798, to Royall II and Mary Tyler.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- Date made
- 1775-1825
- maker
- Tyler, Mary W.
- ID Number
- 1991.0764.01
- catalog number
- 1991.0764.01
- accession number
- 1991.0764
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Nancy Batchelder's Sampler
- Description
- Block upper-case alphabet of 26 letters, plus additional letters "NSABCDMHW." Three block lower-case alphabets of 26 letters. Script alphabet to "W" ("XYZ" in lower part of sampler, with inscription). Numbers 1 to 0 and vowels follow inscription. All these rows separated by simple crossbands. At bottom of sampler, flowering plant with birds, flanked by large urns of flowers and small flowering plants; much of this section worked in crinkled silk thread. Guidelines under some flowers and stems. Border of geometric flowering vine edged by narrow bands. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground. STITCHES: satin, cross, stem, crosslet, chain, eyelet, surface satin, straight, encroaching satin, roumanian. THREAD COUNT: warp 22, weft 22/in.
- Inscriptions:
- "Youth like the sPring in verdues clad InraPtu'd beauties they disPlay
Their blooming smiles Profusive shed Which win the heart but fade awaY
- Nancy Batchelder aged twelve years aeiou wy
- Whilst You ingraVe with Silken art
Let Virtue occuPy Your heart"
- Background:
- Nothing is known about the life of Nancy Batchelder.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- Date made
- 1800-1825
- maker
- Batchelder, Nancy
- ID Number
- TE*T08816
- catalog number
- T8816
- accession number
- 164484
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Maria Minton's Sampler
- Description
- One script and two block alphabets of all 26 letters; all these rows separated by simple crossbands. Numbers to 9 (below inscription). All letters and numbers worked in black. In lower register, hearts, flower-basket, flowering plants, birds. Inscription in solidly filled lozenge. Border of simple geometric band on all four sides. Silk embroidery thread on cotton canvas ground. STITCHES: cross, long-armed cross, herringbone, queen. THREAD COUNT: warp 23, weft 23/in.
- Inscription:
- "Maria Minton
aged 13 years"
- Background:
- Nothing is known about the life of Maria Minton.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- Date made
- 1826
- maker
- Minton, Maria
- ID Number
- TE*T11675
- catalog number
- T11675
- accession number
- 219034
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Mary Shields's Sampler
- Description
- Two block alphabets of 26 letters. Two rows of evenly spaced small motifs (hearts, birds, crowns, eight-pointed stars). Two small dogs in lower corners. Five whole and four partial geometric crossbands. No border. Wool and silk embroidery thread on linen ground. STITCHES: cross. THREAD COUNT: warp 30, weft 32/in.
- Inscriptions:
- "On God for all events depend you cannot
want when Gods your friend
- The Ant against Cold winter wisely hoard
Provision which The Summer's wealth afford
Reading a Silent Lesson to mankind that they
Ending moove not behind
- Better'n the Kindnesses that you Receive
As far as your ability which leave nothing is
More unmannerly than muth as that vile
temper of ingratitude
(This last verse has been badly repaired, and should read: Return the kindnesses that you receive
As far as your ability gives leave Nothing is
more unmannerly nor rude Than that vile
temper of ingratitude)
- Mary Shields May the 30 1827"
- Background:
- Nothing is known about the life of Mary Shields.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- Date made
- 1827
- maker
- Shields, Mary
- ID Number
- TE*T11676
- catalog number
- T11676
- accession number
- 219034
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
1866 - 1900 "One Patch" Pieced Quilt Top
- Description
- The maker of this quilt top, who is unknown, used samples of many late nineteenth-century-fabrics. The quilt top was part of a donation to the Smithsonian by G. Ruth McHenry in 1961. It may have been in the family of Jane Winter Price, who made a “Carpenter’s Wheel” quilt that is also in the Collection.
- The quilt top, pieced in the one-patch “Tumbler” or “Flower Pot” pattern, is made of printed cottons. Nineteenth-century geometric, floral, and polka-dot roller printed cottons are well represented. Both printed and woven striped, checked, and plaid fabrics also contribute to the design. Novelty roller-prints such as dogs’ heads, scallop shells, horseshoes, and ribbons-and-bows can be found on the quilt top. The variety in fabrics makes the quilt top a useful object for study.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- date made
- 1866-1900
- maker
- unknown
- ID Number
- TE*T12700
- accession number
- 238478
- catalog number
- T12700
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Sarah Bailiff's Sampler
- Description
- Four block alphabets of 26 letters. One script alphabet to "P"; no "J." Numbers to 4. Each row worked in one color, and all rows separated by simple geometric crossbands. Two strawberry plants to right of verse. No border. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground. STITCHES: cross, Algerian eye, four-sided, upright gobelin, satin, stem, hem. THREAD COUNT: warp 26, weft 28/in.
- Inscriptions:
- "Now mark the Sequel May Your mind
In wiSdomS waYS true PleaSure find
Grow StronG in virtu rich in truth
And Year bY Year renew itS youth
Till in the late triumphant hoUr
The SPirit Shall the fleSh overPoWer
ThiS from itS SUfferinGS Gain releaSe
And that taKe WinG and Part in PeaCe
- Sarah BaILIff'S SamPler done Nov 27 1839"
- Background:
- Sarah Bailiff gave her sampler to a member of Justice Alfred Moore's family at Moorefields, North Carolina, their summer home. It descended in that family until it was given to the Smithsonian. Sarah Bailiff's date of birth has not yet been identified.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- Date made
- 1839
- maker
- Bailiff, Sarah
- ID Number
- TE*T12722
- catalog number
- T12722
- accession number
- 238996
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
1840 - 1860 Hexagon Silk Quilt
- Description
- Using an elaborate silk quilt, such as this hexagon example, in the parlor gave the accomplished needlewoman an opportunity to show off her work. This unknown maker displayed both her design and needlework skills as evidenced in the intricate pieced work, embroidery, and quilting on both quilts which were combined to make one.
- The large star shapes on the top quilt are composed of 1-3/8-inch silk hexagons. Each shape is contained within a ring of black hexagons, further set off by another circle of stars made of 5/8-inch diamonds. In contrast, the center focus is a rose, embroidered in chenille yarn, on black velvet. This is echoed by the 4-1/2-inch black velvet border embroidered in a rosebud vine pattern. It is completed with a cotton filling and red cotton lining, and quilted with outline stitching on the hexagons and diamonds.
- A second quilt is made of red silk with cotton filling and a printed cotton lining. It too is quilted, using red silk thread, in diagonal grid, feather plume, and circle quilting patterns. The quilting on both is 14 to 15 stitches per inch. The two complete quilts are stitched together around the edges and finished with a green binding.
- The fine quilting, the use of a variety of silks and velvets, and the intricate work all contribute to this impressive example of needlecraft from the later part of the 19th century.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- date made
- 1840-1860
- maker
- unknown
- ID Number
- TE*T12917
- accession number
- 246047
- catalog number
- T12917
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
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