Textiles

Coverlet

The 50,000 objects in the textile collections fall into two main categories: raw fibers, yarns, and fabrics, and machines, tools, and other textile technology. Shawls, coverlets, samplers, laces, linens, synthetics, and other fabrics are part of the first group, along with the 400 quilts in the National Quilt Collection. Some of the Museum's most popular artifacts, such as the Star-Spangled Banner and the gowns of the first ladies, have an obvious textile connection.

The machinery and tools include spinning wheels, sewing machines, thimbles, needlework tools, looms, and an invention that changed the course of American agriculture and society. A model of Eli Whitney's cotton gin, made by the inventor in the early 1800s, shows the workings of a machine that helped make cotton plantations profitable in the South and encouraged the spread of slavery.

Name: H R Mallinson and Company, Incorporated

"Colonial Stars" dress silk; George Washington Bicentennial print series

A length of printed crepe plain weave fabric. Pattern "Colonial Stars", one of the H.R. Mallinson & Co.George Washington Bicentennial Prints.
Description
A length of printed crepe plain weave fabric. Pattern "Colonial Stars", one of the H.R. Mallinson & Co.George Washington Bicentennial Prints. The allover, tossed, non-directional design uses blue stars, singly and in groups of 2 and 3 against a ground of evenly spaced tiny blue dots on an off-white ground. The discoloration and oily residue apparent on this fabric sample suggests that either a) it was not either pure dye or pure silk, as are most of the other Mallinson fabrics; or b) it was stored in contact with another object from which it picked up the residue which discolored it. More research needs to be done to determine the origin of the damage.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1932
maker
H R Mallinson and Company, Incorporated
ID Number
TE.T06960
accession number
118355
catalog number
T06960.000

"Virginia Floral" dress silk, Mallinson's George Washington Bicentennial print series

A length of printed pure dye silk crepe. Soft lustrous plain weave fabric pattern "Virginia Floral", one of the H.R. Mallinson & Co. George Washington Bicentennial prints.
Description
A length of printed pure dye silk crepe. Soft lustrous plain weave fabric pattern "Virginia Floral", one of the H.R. Mallinson & Co. George Washington Bicentennial prints. Colonial gardens inspired the design of flower garlands, dotted with candlesticks and lanterns.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1932
maker
H R Mallinson and Company, Incorporated
ID Number
TE.T06951
accession number
118355
catalog number
T06951.000
accession number
118355

"Nellie Custis" dress fabric, Mallinson's George Washington Bicentennial print series

A length of printed crepe. Pattern "Nellie Custis" one of the H.R. Mallinson & Co.
Description
A length of printed crepe. Pattern "Nellie Custis" one of the H.R. Mallinson & Co. George Washington Bicentennial prints.Pattern inspired by an old silk brocade is made up of many different tiny flower motifs with plain 2 inch border along one selvage, outlined with a flower garland in a running vine effect. The discoloration and oily residue apparent in this textile sample suggests that either a) it was not either pure dye or pure silk, as most of the other Mallinson samples are, or b) it was stored for some time in contact with another object that damaged it. Additional research should be done to determine the source and cause of the discoloration and residue.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1932
maker
H R Mallinson and Company, Incorporated
ID Number
TE.T06955
accession number
118355
catalog number
T06955.000

"Sampler" dress silk, Mallinson's George Washington Bicentennial print series

A length of printed pure dye silk crepe. Soft, lustrous, plain weave fabric, pattern "Sampler". One of the H.R. Mallinson & Co. George Washington Bicentennial print series.
Description
A length of printed pure dye silk crepe. Soft, lustrous, plain weave fabric, pattern "Sampler". One of the H.R. Mallinson & Co. George Washington Bicentennial print series. According to company publicity provided at the time of the line's introduction, the faux "cross stitch" design depicts various dates of Washington's life: his coat of arms, the key to the Bastille, an hour glass, a boxwood hedge he planted, and filler motifs of trees and birds on a beige ground.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1932
maker
H R Mallinson and Company, Incorporated
ID Number
TE.T06953
accession number
118355
catalog number
T06953.000

"Thirteen Stars" dress silk, Mallinson's George Washington Bicentennial print series

A length of printed pure dye silk crepe. Soft lustrous plain weave fabric "Thirteen stars", one of the H.R. Mallinson & Co. George Washington Bicentennial print series. An allover star pattern with two sizes of stars singly and in 13 star circles in white on a dark blue ground.
Description
A length of printed pure dye silk crepe. Soft lustrous plain weave fabric "Thirteen stars", one of the H.R. Mallinson & Co. George Washington Bicentennial print series. An allover star pattern with two sizes of stars singly and in 13 star circles in white on a dark blue ground. According to company publicity at the time of its introduction, the design was adapted from a flag of the original 13 colonies. Probably a discharge-print.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1932
maker
H R Mallinson and Company, Incorporated
ID Number
TE.T06949
accession number
118355
catalog number
T06949.000

"Betsy Ross" dress silk, Mallinson's George Washington Biecentennial print series

A length of printed pure dye silk crepe. Soft lustrous plain weave fabric, pattern "Betsy Ross" one of the H.R. Mallinson & Co. George Washington Bicentennial prints.
Description
A length of printed pure dye silk crepe. Soft lustrous plain weave fabric, pattern "Betsy Ross" one of the H.R. Mallinson & Co. George Washington Bicentennial prints. All over diagonal novelty stripe: arrangement of stars and stripes of varying widths and sizes in red, beige, and white.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1932
maker
H R Mallinson and Company, Incorporated
ID Number
TE.T06952
accession number
118355
catalog number
T06952.000

"Liberty Bell" dress silk; Mallinson's George Washington Bicentennial print series

A length of printed pure dye silk crepe. Soft lustrous plain weave fabric. Pattern "Liberty Bell". One of the H.R. Mallinson & Co. George Washington Bicentennial Print series.
Description
A length of printed pure dye silk crepe. Soft lustrous plain weave fabric. Pattern "Liberty Bell". One of the H.R. Mallinson & Co. George Washington Bicentennial Print series. An allover non-directional tossed layout: design in dark blue and white, showing a collection of antiques of colonial days (tricorne, bonnet, lantern, candlestick, etc.) with the Liberty Bell as a prominent motif.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1932
maker
H R Mallinson and Company, Incorporated
ID Number
TE.T06957
accession number
118355
catalog number
T06957.000

"Starry Stripes" dress silk; Mallinson's George Washington Bicentennial Print series

A length of printed pure dye silk crepe. Soft lustrous plain weave fabric. Pattern "Starry Stripes", one of the H.R. Mallinson & Co. George Washington Bicentenniel print series.
Description
A length of printed pure dye silk crepe. Soft lustrous plain weave fabric. Pattern "Starry Stripes", one of the H.R. Mallinson & Co. George Washington Bicentenniel print series. Overall pattern of iny white stars on a blue ground in a lengthwise stripe layout.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1932
maker
H R Mallinson and Company, Incorporated
ID Number
TE.T06958
accession number
118355
catalog number
T06958.000

H.R. Mallinson & Co rayon pile crushed velvet

A length of H.R. Mallinson & Co.'s rayon pile crushed velvet in red.
Description
A length of H.R. Mallinson & Co.'s rayon pile crushed velvet in red. Sheer, almost transparent, plain weave ground; a double-woven fabric having a silk base and rayon pile - the fabric is woven so the pile warps are shared between two ground cloths woven face to face, and the pile is sheared as the fabric comes off the loom onto the breast beam, making two identical lengths of velvet.. Piece dyed red and while partly dried the cloth is tightly folded lengthwise and twisted. The fabric is then run between cylinders in this tightly wrung condition and when dried has received a permanent crushed finish.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1928
maker
H R Mallinson and Company, Incorporated
ID Number
TE.T05752
accession number
101284
catalog number
T05752.000

"Arapaho" dress silk; Mallinson's American Indian series

A length of the "Arapaho" design dress silk; Mallinson's American Indian series, with small samples of 6 additional colorways of this design attached with a Mallinson tag at the upper right corner. The manufacturer's number for this fabric quality (Pussy Willow) is #5459.
Description
A length of the "Arapaho" design dress silk; Mallinson's American Indian series, with small samples of 6 additional colorways of this design attached with a Mallinson tag at the upper right corner. The manufacturer's number for this fabric quality (Pussy Willow) is #5459. Pussy Willow was a long time Mallinson trade name for an unweighted, pure dye plain weave silk with a soft hand.. At the time it was popular it was considered similar to a generic fabric type called "radium". This is a large sample with small colorway samples attached. Large sample is Colorway #9. The design is the Arapaho tribe design from the American Indian series; an irregular, curving vertical stripe layout of beadwork strips and feathers. The large sample colorway has a light blue ground with patterning in dark blue, blue-green, orange, red-brown, yellow, black, and white.
Mallinson's American Indian series followed the "National Parks" and "Wonder Caves of America" designs, and illustrates the company's continuing interest in using American themes, and in utilizing the collections of New York area museums for research and inspiration.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1928
maker
H R Mallinson and Company, Incorporated
ID Number
TE.T05749.A
catalog number
T05749.00A
accession number
101284

"Candlelight" dress silk; Mallinson's George Washington Bicentennial print series

A length of printed pure dye silk crepe. Soft lustrous plain weave fabric. Pattern "Candlelight". One of the H.R. Mallinson & Co. George Washington Bicentennial print series.
Description
A length of printed pure dye silk crepe. Soft lustrous plain weave fabric. Pattern "Candlelight". One of the H.R. Mallinson & Co. George Washington Bicentennial print series. Scattered motifs of candlestick with lighted taper, liberty bell, star, flower blossoms, and bellows against of ground with an overall pattern of tiny dots
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1932
maker
H R Mallinson and Company, Incorporated
ID Number
TE.T06954
accession number
118355
catalog number
T06954.000

"Mount Vernon" dress silk; Mallinson's George Washington Bicenetennial print series

A length of printed pure dye silk crepe. Soft lustrous, plain weave fabric. Pattern "Mount Vernon", one of the H.R. Mallinson & Co. George Washington Bicentennial print series.
Description
A length of printed pure dye silk crepe. Soft lustrous, plain weave fabric. Pattern "Mount Vernon", one of the H.R. Mallinson & Co. George Washington Bicentennial print series. Allover, directional design of flower garlands with household objects said by company publicity to be "typical of Mount Vernon" - including bellows, lantern, hour glass, powder horn, glass demijohn, dye pot, mug, etc., in yellow, green, gray, blue, and white on a brown ground.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1932
maker
H R Mallinson and Company, Incorporated
ID Number
TE.T06959
accession number
118355
catalog number
T06959.000

"Garden of the Gods" colorways (3), Mallinson's National Park series

Three sample lengths of printed "Khaki Kool," Mallinson tradename for a rough finish sport silk: Rough surface crepe fabric woven with warp of tussah silk and weft of tussah loosely twisted with a silk crepe yarn. Selvage width; selvage inscription.
Description
Three sample lengths of printed "Khaki Kool," Mallinson tradename for a rough finish sport silk: Rough surface crepe fabric woven with warp of tussah silk and weft of tussah loosely twisted with a silk crepe yarn. Selvage width; selvage inscription. Printed with National Park series "Garden of the Gods" design; in three different color combinations (on grounds of white, orange, and mauve). In late 1926 American silk manufacturer H. R. Mallinson & Co. introduced a bold new line of printed silks, twelve landscape designs, each available in from eight to twelve colorways (color combinations) on three different ground fabrics. The designs celebrated America's National Parks - then only a decade old. The designs represented all the usual styles necesssary for making clothing: allover prints, horizontal stripes, checks, a border design, etc. These samples illustrate how strikingly different a single design can appear by changing the colors of the ground and design elements.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1927
maker
H R Mallinson and Company, Incorporated
ID Number
TE.T05587.A-C
accession number
95522
catalog number
T05587.A-C

"Grand Canyon" (allover) on velvet, Mallinson's National Parks series

A length of very light soft pliable velvet (printed butterfly velvet), having a silk ground and rayon pile. Printed with Mallinson's National Park series Grand Canyon allover design on a black background.
Description
A length of very light soft pliable velvet (printed butterfly velvet), having a silk ground and rayon pile. Printed with Mallinson's National Park series Grand Canyon allover design on a black background. Rayon pile on a silk chiffon or georgette ground cloth was generically termed 'transparent velvet' in the 1920s and 1930s. In late 1926 American silk manufacturer H.R. Mallinson & Co. introduced a bold new line of printed silks, twelve landscape designs, each available in from eight to twelve colorways (color combinations) on three different ground fabrics. The designs celebrated America's National Parks - then only a decade old, and represented all the usual styles necesssary for making clothing: allover prints, horizontal stripes, checks, a border design,etc. The firm also donated an example of this design printed on a flat surface silk, and an example of the Grand Canyon border design.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1927
maker
H R Mallinson and Company, Incorporated
ID Number
TE.T05584
accession number
95522
catalog number
T05584.000

"Washington Floral" dress silk, Mallinson's George Washington Bicentennial print series

A length of printed pure dye silk crepe. Soft lustrous plain weave fabric. Pattern "Washington Floral": one of the H.R. Mallinson & Co. George Washington Bicentennial print series.
Description
A length of printed pure dye silk crepe. Soft lustrous plain weave fabric. Pattern "Washington Floral": one of the H.R. Mallinson & Co. George Washington Bicentennial print series. According to company publicity at the time the line was introduced, this allover tossed design of tiny flowers and rosebud clusters was inspired by a motif in an old brocade worn by Mrs. James Duane at the Washington Inaugural Ball.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1932
maker
H R Mallinson and Company, Incorporated
ID Number
TE.T06956
accession number
118355
catalog number
T06956.000

"Garden of the Gods" colorways (7), Mallinson's National Park series

Seven sample lengths of Mallinson's tradename Pussy Willow silk, printed. Selvage widths; selvage inscriptions. Soft drapey plain weave fabric printed with National Parks series design "Garden of the Gods" in seven different color combinations: Ground colors are A. tan, B.
Description
Seven sample lengths of Mallinson's tradename Pussy Willow silk, printed. Selvage widths; selvage inscriptions. Soft drapey plain weave fabric printed with National Parks series design "Garden of the Gods" in seven different color combinations: Ground colors are A. tan, B. black (warm), C. green, D. orange, E. gray, F. black (cool), G. French blue. In late 1926 American silk manufacturer H.R. Mallinson & Co. introduced a bold new line of printed silks, twelve landscape designs, each available in from eight to twelve colorways (color combinations) on three different ground fabrics. The designs celebrated America's National Parks - then only a decade old. The designs represented all the usual styles necesssary for making clothing: allover prints, horizontal stripes, checks, a border design, etc These samples illustrate how strikingly different a single design can appear by changing the colors of the ground and design elements.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1927
maker
H R Mallinson and Company, Incorporated
ID Number
TE.T05589.A-G
accession number
95522
catalog number
T05589.A-G

"Garden of the Gods" colorways (5), Mallinson's National Park series

Five sample lengths of a printed silk sheer, Mallinson tradename "Indestructible Chiffon Voile". Selvage width; selvage inscription.
Description
Five sample lengths of a printed silk sheer, Mallinson tradename "Indestructible Chiffon Voile". Selvage width; selvage inscription. A sheer, plain weave all silk fabric printed with National Park series "Garden of the Gods" design; samples of five different color combinations (ground color are: peach, grey, blue, green, and orange). In late 1926 American silk manufacturer H.R. Mallinson & Co. introduced a bold new line of printed silks, twelve landscape designs, each available in from eight to twelve colorways (color combinations) on three different ground fabrics. The designs celebrated America's National Parks - then only a decade old. The designs represented all the usual styles necesssary for making clothing: allover prints, horizontal stripes, checks, a border design, etc. These samples illustrate how strikingly different a single design can appear by changing the colors of the ground and design elements.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1927
maker
H R Mallinson and Company, Incorporated
ID Number
TE.T05588.A-E
accession number
95522
catalog number
T05588.A-E

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