Textiles

Coverlet

The 50,000 objects in the textile collections fall into two main categories: raw fibers, yarns, and fabrics, and machines, tools, and other textile technology. Shawls, coverlets, samplers, laces, linens, synthetics, and other fabrics are part of the first group, along with the 400 quilts in the National Quilt Collection. Some of the Museum's most popular artifacts, such as the Star-Spangled Banner and the gowns of the first ladies, have an obvious textile connection.

The machinery and tools include spinning wheels, sewing machines, thimbles, needlework tools, looms, and an invention that changed the course of American agriculture and society. A model of Eli Whitney's cotton gin, made by the inventor in the early 1800s, shows the workings of a machine that helped make cotton plantations profitable in the South and encouraged the spread of slavery.

Place: Pennsylvania

Michael Eichman Figured and Fancy tied-beiderwand coverlet; Pennsylvania, 1850

Michael Eichman (1814-1883) wove this Figured and Fancy, red, white, blue, and green, tied-Beiderwand coverlet in Juniata County, Pennsylvania in 1850. The name of the weaver, Michael Eichman, and the location Juniata, Co.
Description
Michael Eichman (1814-1883) wove this Figured and Fancy, red, white, blue, and green, tied-Beiderwand coverlet in Juniata County, Pennsylvania in 1850. The name of the weaver, Michael Eichman, and the location Juniata, Co. Penn., are woven into the two lower corners along with the date, 1850. The center field pattern is made up of “Double Lily and Starburst” carpet medallions, and the three borders feature “Rose Tree” motifs. The colors appear in stripes across the coverlet, a common design feature of Pennsylvania woven coverlets. There is no center seam indicating that Eichman was using a broadloom and possibly involved in small factory production. The coverlet measures 88 inches by 72 inches. There were several small woolen mills in Juniata County that could have employed Eichman as a fancy weaver. The coverlet was made for a member of the Phillip Crater family. It descended in the family of his son Joel, who was born in Pennsylvania, but by 1850 and according to the Federal Census, the family had moved to Illinois. In 1884 the family went to Missouri by covered wagon and the coverlet went with them. Michael Eichman was born in Hamburg in the German States, immigrating to Philadelphia in 1836, possibly working at one of the many textile factories in and around the city. He soon relocated to Freeburg, Snyder County. Family legend recorded that Eichman would carry his coverlets on his back and sell them on his way from Snyder County to Philadelphia. This was evidently a successful venture because he was able to purchase land in Cocolamus, Juniata County where he continued to weave and farm.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1830
maker
Michael Eichman
ID Number
2002.0306.01
accession number
2002.0306

1900 Mary Watson's Pillow Cover

Mary Dickson Watson, quilted and corded the pink silk crepe pillow cover to match a baby carriage cover (1989.0268.02) that she made for her granddaughter, Mary Dickson Wilson, born in 1900. The quilting in the center quatrefoil depicts two rabbits with a butterfly and flowers.
Description
Mary Dickson Watson, quilted and corded the pink silk crepe pillow cover to match a baby carriage cover (1989.0268.02) that she made for her granddaughter, Mary Dickson Wilson, born in 1900. The quilting in the center quatrefoil depicts two rabbits with a butterfly and flowers. Each corner has a square outlined by corded quilting containing a flower.
Mary Way Dickson was born about 1840. She married Alexander Watson in 1859. Their daughter, Mary Dickson Watson, was born about 1865 in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. She married Adam Wilson in 1897 and it was for their daughter, Mary Dickson Wilson, that the pillow and carriage cover were made. In the 1900 census, Mary Dickson Watson, was living with them in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. The recipient of the silk carriage and pillow cover later married Joseph Phipps. The items remained in the family until they were donated to the Collection in 1989.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1900
maker
Watson, Mary Way Dickson
ID Number
1989.0268.03
catalog number
1989.0268.03
accession number
1989.0268

1835 - 1845 Quaker Trousseau Pieced Quilt

An intriguing note came with this framed medallion quilt when it was donated: “The Quaker Quilt. Phil.
Description
An intriguing note came with this framed medallion quilt when it was donated: “The Quaker Quilt. Phil. ca 1840 made for wedding of bride of early Philadelphia Quaker Abolitionist of pieces from the gowns of her trousseau.” Unfortunately there is no indication of the quilt maker or ownership.
The focus of the 41-inch central square, “Star of Bethlehem,” is set off by a 5-inch octagonal border. Additional pieced and plain borders frame this variation of a medallion-style quilt. The beige, tan, brown, rust, and light grey silks and satins utilized for the pattern would be typical of the Quaker esthetic and period. The quilt is lined with roller printed cottons and filled with wool. It is quilted with a variety of geometric patterns (grid, diagonal, chevron, and parallel lines), feathered and flowering vines in the borders, and a spray of flowers in the corner squares. This quilt is a precisely designed example of Quaker quilts in the mid-19th century.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1835-1845
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.E388880
accession number
182022
catalog number
E388880

1949 Emma Mundorff's "Flower Garden" Quilt

Over 5,000 hexagonally shaped patches of plain and printed cottons were used to create the quilt. It is outline-quilted at 10 stitches per inch. It was quilted on a frame made by Emma’s grandfather in 1833.
Description
Over 5,000 hexagonally shaped patches of plain and printed cottons were used to create the quilt. It is outline-quilted at 10 stitches per inch. It was quilted on a frame made by Emma’s grandfather in 1833. The frame was used in the family until it was donated with the quilt in 1988.
Emma Mundorff’s grandfather, Philip Snyder, was born in Bavaria, Germany, in 1801. He and his wife, Maria, immigrated to the U.S. in 1832 and settled near Gettysburg, Pennsylvania. Granddaughter Emma Culp was born in 1869. Her family farm, “Culp’s Hill,” is part of Gettysburg Battlefield history. She married Jacob Mundorff (1863-1915) in 1886.
Emma made quilts for herself, her four children, and eight grandchildren. Her masterpiece, “Flower Garden,” was made in 1949 when she was 80 years old.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1949
maker
Mundorff, Emma Culp
ID Number
1988.0123.01
catalog number
1988.0123.01
accession number
1988.0123

"Star and Table;" overshot coverlet; multi-harness; c. 1800-1830; likely Pennsylvania

This is a red, white, and blue, cotton and wool, multi-harness, overshot coverlet woven in a complex “Star and Table” pattern with long warp self-fringe and shorter weft self-fringe. There is a center seam, indicating hand-loom weaving.
Description
This is a red, white, and blue, cotton and wool, multi-harness, overshot coverlet woven in a complex “Star and Table” pattern with long warp self-fringe and shorter weft self-fringe. There is a center seam, indicating hand-loom weaving. The coverlet measures 79 inches by 71.5 inches. There is little information about the provenance of this coverlet; however, most of the complex overshot star and diamond coverlets were created in the counties just west of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. The weavers of these coverlets were master weavers and used looms with upward of twenty-six shafts, which allowed them to pack in minute detail into a rather small space. The weaver’s use of red, and blue wool yarns contrasting against the white, cotton ground-cloth create a stunning visual.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
19th century
c. 1800-1830
ID Number
TE.T18667
catalog number
T18667.000
accession number
144093

Lancaster Carpet, Coverlet, Quilt, and Yarn Manufactory; coverlet; Jacquard, double cloth; c. 1856-1880; Pennsylvania

Weavers at the Lancaster Carpet, Coverlet, Quilt, and Yarn Manufactory likely wove this all-wool, mulberry and olive green, Figured and Fancy, double cloth coverlet in Lancaster City, Pennsylvania sometime between 1856 and 1880.
Description
Weavers at the Lancaster Carpet, Coverlet, Quilt, and Yarn Manufactory likely wove this all-wool, mulberry and olive green, Figured and Fancy, double cloth coverlet in Lancaster City, Pennsylvania sometime between 1856 and 1880. There is a large central medallion composed of a starburst at the center surrounded by a floral wreath and garland of ivy. The ground is composed of a triangle design. There are borders on all four sides made up of floral urns, grape vines, and depictions of the U.S. Capitol. Each of the four corners contains an eight-pedaled floral design associated with Philip Schum’s manufactory. There is no center seam, indicating that this coverlet was woven on a broadloom and likely a power loom. There is no fringe. The coverlet is in overall poor condition and there are large sections of loss and the hems have come undone. Philip Schum (1814-1880) was born in Hesse-Darmstadt, Germany. Schum immigrated to the United States with his first wife, Ana Margartha Bond in the 1830s, settling first in New York City where he worked as a malt tramper. The family soon moved to Lancaster County where Schum worked as a shoemaker and basket maker. Schum purchased a general store in 1852, and by 1856 he had become successful enough to sell the business and start the Lancaster Carpet, Coverlet, Quilt, and Yarn Manufactory. Schum expanded his business exponentially over the ensuing decades growing from four employee to over forty. He and his second wife, Anna Margaret Koch were killed by a train in their carriage in 1880. Schum’s sons took over the business which remained successful until the 1920s. There is no evidence that Schum was ever trained as a weaver.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
c. 1856-1880
maker
Schum, Philip
ID Number
TE.T9537
catalog number
T09537.000
accession number
171995

"Star and Diamond" multi-harness coverlet; c. 1790-1840; Pennsylvania

This red, white, and blue, multi-harness coverlet features what has come to be known as the "star and diamond" pattern. This particular pattern was woven on a 14-shaft loom. Some of the variations of this star-work required eighteen shafts.
Description
This red, white, and blue, multi-harness coverlet features what has come to be known as the "star and diamond" pattern. This particular pattern was woven on a 14-shaft loom. Some of the variations of this star-work required eighteen shafts. The coverlet was loaned to the museum in the 1930s and later donated in the 1970s. Mrs. John H. Murray purchased the coverlet in Frederick, MD with green stamps, and there may be a Maryland connection with production of this coverlet; however, known weaver’s pattern books tend to all be focused on Southeastern Pennsylvania. Famous pattern books created by weavers like Jacob Angstadt, John Landes, and NMAH’s own pattern book by Peter Stauffer all contain variations of these multi-harness patterns. The coverlet was woven in two pieces and the pattern does not quite match up at the center seam. Whether this is due to shrinkage from improper washing or from uneven beating on the loom remains to be determined. There are remnants of a self-fringe along the sides that has worn away and both the top and bottom edge of the coverlet are hemmed with a simple rolled hem. The coverlet is composed of what appears to be a 3-ply cotton warp and a 2-ply or single of natural cotton for the weft.
Location
Currently not on view
delete
19th century
date made
1790-1840
ID Number
TE.T18666
catalog number
T18666.000
accession number
144093

1840 - 1860 Appliqued Quilt Blocks

Seven appliqued quilt blocks of the type found in album quilts. Each of plain-weave white cotton fabric appliqued with a four-armed conventionalized floral motif cut from printed cottons with red grounds.
Description
Seven appliqued quilt blocks of the type found in album quilts. Each of plain-weave white cotton fabric appliqued with a four-armed conventionalized floral motif cut from printed cottons with red grounds. The center of each appliqued motif is cut out, providing space on the white ground-fabric for writing a name. Five different printed fabrics have been used for the applique. Blocks D and E are of the same fabric.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1840-1860
associated dates
1840 00 00+ / 1840 00 00+, 1860 00 00- / 1860 00 00-
maker
unknown
ID Number
1990.0667.12A-G
accession number
1990.0667
catalog number
1990.0667.12A-G

Phoebe E. Downing's Sampler

Three block alphabets of 26 letters and numbers to 0. Five scattered eyelet stitches and short row of tent and reverse tent. Initials "ID," "ED," MSD," "PED," "RID," and "SWD." Border of simple geometric band on top and two sides. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground.
Description
Three block alphabets of 26 letters and numbers to 0. Five scattered eyelet stitches and short row of tent and reverse tent. Initials "ID," "ED," MSD," "PED," "RID," and "SWD." Border of simple geometric band on top and two sides. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground. STITCHES: cross, rice, eyelet, crosslet, tent. THREAD COUNT: warp 23, weft 28/in.
Inscription:
"Phebe E 18 16 Downing"
Background:
Phoebe was born on December 23, 1807, to Joseph and Elizabeth Webster Downing in Downingtown, Pennsylvania. Since the letters "I" and "J" were interchangeable, the initials "ID" were for her father, "ED" for her mother, "MSD" for her sister Mary S., "PED" for Phoebe, "RID" for brother Richard J., and "SWD" for sister Sarah W. An older brother Wesley R. died before the sampler was made, and another sister Thomazine was born after the sampler was made. Phoebe did not marry and died on August 20, 1849.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1816
maker
Downing, Phoebe E.
ID Number
TE.T17754
catalog number
T17754
accession number
316364

coverlet; overshot; "Star and Table;" 1875-1900; Pennsylvania

This red, blue, white, and green overshot coverlet woven with cotton and wool yarns was woven in Pennsylvania by the donor’s grandmother in Martinsburg, Pennsylvania.
Description
This red, blue, white, and green overshot coverlet woven with cotton and wool yarns was woven in Pennsylvania by the donor’s grandmother in Martinsburg, Pennsylvania. The donor’s grandmother died in 1943 at the age of 83, meaning that this coverlet was likely woven sometime in the last quarter of the nineteenth century. The pattern is "Star and Table" and similar to both the “Granite State" and "King’s Flower” patterns. The coverlet was woven as one length, cut, folded back on itself, and cotton thread was used to sew the center seam, and to attach the tape fringe.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1875-1900
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T14531
catalog number
T14531.000
accession number
277451

Andrew Kump; coverlet; Jacquard, tied-Beiderwand; 1848; Pennsylvania

Andrew Kump’s workshop produced this Jacquard, blue & white, tied-Beiderwand coverlet. It features fringe on 3 sides. The border is composed of floral chains, which appear to be roses.
Description
Andrew Kump’s workshop produced this Jacquard, blue & white, tied-Beiderwand coverlet. It features fringe on 3 sides. The border is composed of floral chains, which appear to be roses. The centerfield pattern is made up of “Double Lily” and “Double Lily” medallions and there are woven cornerblocks that read, "Andrew Kump, Damask Coverlet Manufacturer, Hanover, York County Pa. 1848." The coverlet measures 96x88 inches and has a center seam indicating it was woven on a handloom with a Jacquard attachment. The refinement of the design of this coverlet when compared with our other Kump coverlet (T8955), which was woven in 1836 reflect the rapid advancement of the patterning technology and the shifting tastes in style.
Kump worked in Hanover, York County, Pennsylvania, but advertised in Northern Maryland as well as Pennsylvania. Kump employed another weaver named Valentine Cook (1820-1869). The only evidence that Kump was a coverlet weaver comes from the 1835-1836 York County tax lists. The 1850 Federal Census listed Kump as a retail store owner with Cook living in the household. In the 1860 Federal Census, Cook is absent and Kump is listed as a confectioner. More evidence is needed to prove without a doubt that Kump owned the license for the weaving equipment that Cook was using, but the absence of signed Cook coverlets seems to suggest that Kump was having his own branded coverlets woven on-site at his store. In 1855, when Cook moved to Adams County, Pennsylvania, William Gernand, a Maryland coverlet weaver, advertised that he had recently purchased Kump’s equipment and inventory. It is therefore likely, that at least after 1850, Cook was weaving coverlets sold by Kump at his store.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1848
weaver
Kump, Andrew
ID Number
TE.T8956
catalog number
T08956.000
accession number
164228

Sarah Yard's Sampler

One block alphabet of 26 letters; numbers to 10. Alphabet and numbers colored in groups of two or three. Each word in inscription and each set of initials worked in different color. Flower basket, bird, eight-pointed star, and several flowering plants.
Description
One block alphabet of 26 letters; numbers to 10. Alphabet and numbers colored in groups of two or three. Each word in inscription and each set of initials worked in different color. Flower basket, bird, eight-pointed star, and several flowering plants. Border of simple geometric vine-and-leaf on top and two sides. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground. STITCHES: cross. THREAD COUNT: warp 24, weft 29/in.
Inscription:
"SARAH YARD IN H
ER SEVENTH YEAR
Y SM MAY
J S MAY GMY JY"
Background:
Sarah was born in 1809 to John and Sarah McKimson Yard in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. She married Alexander Cummings in 1836, and they had six children—Mary B., Alfred, Sarah Ellen, Charles Thomas, Alexander M., and John. Alexander was a general in the Union Army during the Civil War, and then governor of the Colorado Territory from 1865 to 1867. He died in Canada, but was buried in Philadelphia. Sarah died in Washington, D.C., on August 28, 1887, and is also buried in Philadelphia. The initials on her sampler may be family members, father, mother, grandfather, grandmother Mary Ann Yard, sister Mary Ann Yard, brother George Mickerson Yard, and brother John Yard.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1815-1816
maker
Yard, Sarah
ID Number
TE.H14388
catalog number
H14388
accession number
55589

coverlet; geometric double-cloth; c. 1820-1840; poss. Pennsylvania

This coverlet is a red, white, and blue, geometric double cloth coverlet. The main pattern is commonly known as “Lover’s Knot”. There are borders at the top and bottom which are created from a fractional reduction of the main pattern.
Description
This coverlet is a red, white, and blue, geometric double cloth coverlet. The main pattern is commonly known as “Lover’s Knot”. There are borders at the top and bottom which are created from a fractional reduction of the main pattern. There is evidence of self-fringe on the sides, and the bottom edge has a seven inch long decorative woven fringe applied with decorative stitchwork. It may have been a latter addition or reattached at a later date. The coverlet is constructed from two panels which were woven as one length, cut, and seamed up the middle. Not much is known about the provenance of the coverlet, but based on the design and structure, it was likely woven between 1820 and 1840 in Pennsylvania. The donor and her family lived in the Dearborn, Michigan area, but more research is needed to determine if there are earlier connections to Pennsylvania.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
c. 1820-1840
ID Number
TE.T10086
catalog number
T10086.000
accession number
179762

Figured and Fancy coverlet; tied-Beiderwand; 1844; prob. Pennsylvania

This Figured and Fancy, tied-Beiderwand coverlet has horizontal stripes of pink [rose], white, gold, light and dark brown and fringe on three sides, It is possible that some of the colors visible today have faded due to age, light, and the dyes used.
Description
This Figured and Fancy, tied-Beiderwand coverlet has horizontal stripes of pink [rose], white, gold, light and dark brown and fringe on three sides, It is possible that some of the colors visible today have faded due to age, light, and the dyes used. The fringe along the sides was created by the wool weft yarns and has mostly worn away over time. The centerfield pattern features the “Double Lily” and starburst carpet medallions. The border found on three sides of the coverlet feature addorsed Distelfinken (thistle finches) and rosebushes and Hom (tree of life). The two cornerblock show the name, Franz Rether, and the date 1844. There is no record of a weaver by that name, and Rether was likely the customer. More research is needed to determine just who Franz Rether was. Due to the pattern and color arrangement of this coverlet, it was likely made in Pennsylvania. Genealogical research revealed that Pennsylvania in the 1840s was full of families named Rether, Ritter, and Reiter, all of which have similar pronunciations. Adams County, Pennsylvania had a large number of Rether families living there in the 1840s, and it is possible that this is where the coverlet was woven.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1830
1844
ID Number
TE.T13546
catalog number
T13546.000
accession number
244500

Caroline Winn Memorial Mourning Picture; Susan Winn; ca. 1816

A mourning picture embroidered by Susan Winn, about 1816, in Lititz, PA, and dedicated to her sister, Caroline, who died in 1806 as an infant. The circular embroidered picture is surrounded by a band of couched chenille decorated with gold spangles.
Description
A mourning picture embroidered by Susan Winn, about 1816, in Lititz, PA, and dedicated to her sister, Caroline, who died in 1806 as an infant. The circular embroidered picture is surrounded by a band of couched chenille decorated with gold spangles. It shows a woman, two girls, and a boy gathered around a cloth-draped urn on which is printed "rests in Peace." The woman and girls wear necklaces with pendants or plaques; the one worn by the girl on the right is lettered "SW." The boy holds a book on which is printed "Ble--ed are the Dead that die in the L---." Printed in blue ink on the front of the plinth is "Sacred to the Memory / of my dear Sister / CAROLINE WINN. / Sweet be Thy sepulchral rest / Sister dear! supremely blest! / May the ties which us unite / Be renew'd in realms of light! / Erected by Susan Winn." In a gilded wood frame, it measures 25" x 25", and its black mat is reverse-painted on the glass. The ground is twill-weave ivory silk, and the stitches are satin, long and short, stem, and couching.
Susan was born October 18, 1801, to John and Susanna Winn in Baltimore, Maryland. Her father was a flour merchant and entered Susan and Elizabeth in the Moravian boarding school, Linden Hall Seminary, in Lititz, Pennsylvania in 1815. Susan married John Reynolds on December 23, 1824.
Mourning designs appear in many 19th-century decorative arts, including needlework. Embroidered landscapes, usually worked by schoolgirls, often show relatives or friends grieving before a monument dedicated to a lost loved one. For more about this embroidery and other schoolgirl needlework, see Girlhood Embroidery, American Samplers & Pictorial Needlework by Betty Ring (New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1993) and The "Ornamental Branches," Needlework and Arts from the Lititz Moravian Girls' School Between 1800 and 1865 by Patricia T. Herr (Lancaster, PA: The Heritage Center Museum of Lancaster County, 1996).
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1816
associated dates
1938
maker
Winn, Susan
ID Number
TE.T08266
catalog number
T08266
accession number
148588

1838 Yerkes's Patent Model of a Spindle and Flyer

Spindle and Flyer Patent ModelPatent No. 781, issued June 12, 1838Richard E.
Description
Spindle and Flyer Patent Model
Patent No. 781, issued June 12, 1838
Richard E. Yerkes of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
According to his patent specification, Yerkes patented “the revolving arrangement and combination of the sliding shaft, with the broach, or with the spool, for the purpose of removing and renewing the latter . . . .” The action of the sliding shaft enabled the operator to remove and change the spool when the spring was pressed down. In addition, he patented the ring in combination with the flyers that distributed the yarn on the spool. Yerkes intended his improvements to be used on machines for spinning cotton and other fibers.
Location
Currently not on view
model constructed
before 1838-06-12
patent date
1838-06-12
inventor
Yerkes, Richard E.
ID Number
TE.T11420.080
catalog number
T11420.080
accession number
89797
patent number
781

Coverlet, Jacquard double-cloth; c.1870-1880; Pennsylvania

This coverlet features a large central rose medallion with starburst at the center surrounded by an ivy garland. A triangle-motif section rings this followed by a wide border of roses and foliate designs. There are bouquets of flowers in each corner.
Description
This coverlet features a large central rose medallion with starburst at the center surrounded by an ivy garland. A triangle-motif section rings this followed by a wide border of roses and foliate designs. There are bouquets of flowers in each corner. This coverlet is double cloth, but the weave is unbalanced. The colored wool weft yards are loosely twisted 2-ply, s-twist, z-spun in red, green, blue, and purple, and the white cotton singles are z-spun. There is also a cotton drab warp of z-spun singles and white cotton z-spun singles. The weaver tripled these singles in the warp and wove them as one. There is a self-fringe on 2 sides, and an applied woven fringe in wool weft colors stitched to lower edge. The coverlet was purchased by the donor’s mother sometime in the late nineteenth century. She lived in Newport, Maine and kept the coverlet sealed in a trunk until 1913 when it was gifted to her daughters. It is likely that Mrs. Grindell purchased the coverlet while visiting Philadelphia for the Centennial Exposition. Coverlets in this style and color combination were sold at the Expo, and coverlets with horizontal color banding have been associated with Pennsylvania or Pennsylvania-trained weavers throughout the nineteenth century. The colors used to dye the wool are synthetic dyes that became popular during the 1860s onward, lending more credence to the dating of these coverlet c. 1870-1880. There is no center seam and the design, although bold, lacks the refinement of earlier, hand-woven coverlets, suggesting fully-industrialized, power-loom, factory production.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1875-1900
late 19th century
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T13987
catalog number
T13987.000
accession number
268777

Elizabeth Marx's Sampler

Verse and two wide floral crossbands, both arcaded, one with roses and one with strawberries and forget-me-nots. Two eight-pointed stars. Black guidelines under flowers in rose crossband. Center section framed in band of sawtooth.
Description
Verse and two wide floral crossbands, both arcaded, one with roses and one with strawberries and forget-me-nots. Two eight-pointed stars. Black guidelines under flowers in rose crossband. Center section framed in band of sawtooth. Border of geometric flowering vine with strawberries and pinks, and an outer row of dentil pattern on all four sides. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground. STITCHES: cross, straight, Algerian eye, satin, surface satin, encroaching satin, stem, queen, outline. THREAD COUNT: warp 40, weft 38/in.
Inscriptions:
"Here In This Garden Here Below
Water Me That I May Grow
And When All Grace To Me Is Given
Then Transplant Me Into Heaven
Elizabeth Marx Her Work 1802"
Background:
This is probably the Elizabeth born on March 20, 1790, to George and Elizabeth Marx in Reading, Pennsylvania. According to the records from the Trinity Lutheran Church in Reading, she married Christian Brobst on September 6, 1812. She died June 20, 1847 and is buried at the Union/West End Cemetery in Allentown, Lehigh, PA.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1802
maker
Marx, Elizabeth
ID Number
TE.T11651
catalog number
T11651.000
accession number
222389

coverlet; Jacquard; tied-Beiderwand; c. 1845; Pennsylvania

This Jacquard, red, white, blue and green, tied-Beiderwand coverlet features and “Double Flower” carpet medallion pattern made up of two different designs.
Description
This Jacquard, red, white, blue and green, tied-Beiderwand coverlet features and “Double Flower” carpet medallion pattern made up of two different designs. The two side borders feature stylized flower and foliate designs, and the lower border is made up of leaves and stylized floral tiles. The cornerblock also features a floral carpet tile design and is likely associated with an as-of-yet unidentified weaver. The donor received this coverlet from his mother, Elizabeth Fretz Darnell (b. 1870) of Dublin, Bucks County, Pennsylvania. The coverlet measures 81 inches by 89 inches and does not have a center seam, indicating that it was woven on a broad loom. Former curators at NMAH have dated the coverlet to approximately 1845. There is a two inch applied fringe along three sides.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
late 19th Century
date made
c. 1845
ID Number
TE.T12922
accession number
247373

"Bishop" dress silk, A "Martine" design by Duplan

A "Martine" silk by the Duplan Silk Company of Hazleton, PA. This design titled "Bishop", on quality "Fleur de Jeunesse" a fine soft taffeta. Printed design of scattered stylized scrolls and flowers in golden brown, bright pink, and light green on an off white ground.
Description
A "Martine" silk by the Duplan Silk Company of Hazleton, PA. This design titled "Bishop", on quality "Fleur de Jeunesse" a fine soft taffeta. Printed design of scattered stylized scrolls and flowers in golden brown, bright pink, and light green on an off white ground. This example was cylinder printed. Duplan's publicity touts this series of silk dress fabrics as "Woven, printed, and finished in the US, sold and delivered in Paris and London. Designs by the Martine School of Decorative Art, Paris, France. Directed, owned, and personally supervised by Mr. Paul Poiret, who is universally acknowledged as the greatest creator of women's fashions of the present century." In the press these were called "Futurist Flowers, and there supposedly 8 designs in total that Duplan licensed from Poiret. NMAH Textiles department holds six samples, of four designs, two of the designs in two colorways on two different ground cloths.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1914
maker
Duplan Silk Corporation
designer
Poiret, Paul
ID Number
TE.T01222
accession number
56671
catalog number
T01222.000

"Bishop" dress silk, A "Martine" design by Duplan

A "Martine" silk by the Duplan Silk Company of Hazleton, PA. This design titled "Bishop", on quality "Ruisselet" a warp-faced weave with much thicker weft yarns than warp yarns, having a crinkled texture.
Description
A "Martine" silk by the Duplan Silk Company of Hazleton, PA. This design titled "Bishop", on quality "Ruisselet" a warp-faced weave with much thicker weft yarns than warp yarns, having a crinkled texture. Printed design of scattered stylized scrolls and flowers on a dark blue ground. This example was cylinder printed. Duplan's publicity touts this series of silk dress fabrics as"Woven, printed, and finished in the US, sold and delivered in Paris and London. Designs by the Martine School of Decorative Art, Paris, France. Directed, owned, and personally supervised by Mr. Paul Poiret, who is universally acknowledged as the greatest creator of women's fashions of the present century." In the press these were called "Futurist Flowers", and there were supposedly 8 designs in total that Duplan licensed from Poiret. The NMAH Textiles collection holds six samples, four designs, two designs in two colorways on two different ground cloths.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1914
maker
Duplan Silk Corporation
designer
Poiret, Paul
ID Number
TE.T01219
accession number
56671
catalog number
T01219.000

H. & A.. Seifert; Figured and Fancy coverlet; Beiderwand; 1847; Pennsylvania

This cotton and wool Figured and Fancy coverlet features red, blue and olive green horizontal color-banding. The centerfield is composed of five different floral and geometric design motifs each within nine and a quarter inch diamond figures.
Description
This cotton and wool Figured and Fancy coverlet features red, blue and olive green horizontal color-banding. The centerfield is composed of five different floral and geometric design motifs each within nine and a quarter inch diamond figures. The border pattern found on all four sides the coverlet is composed of houses, fences trees, grapevine, dogs, cats, chickens, and birds. The four corners list the manufacturer’s name, place, and date, indicating that the coverlet was made by H. & A. Seifert in Mechanicsburg, Cumberland County, Pennsylvania in 1847. The coverlet was woven for Daniel Baker (1821-1905) of Church Town, PA. "This is the property of Daniel Baker.” is woven in a narrow band across the lower border of the coverlet. Extensions of warp ends and weft picks form a fringe along three sides.
H. & A. Seifert, the manufacturer of this coverlet, was a partnership between brothers, Andrew (1820-1900) and Henry Seifert (1823-1905). More research is needed into whether this partnership was simply between two artisan hand-weavers or if the brothers were investing their capital into the establishment of a factory. The brothers were born in York City, York County, Pennsylvania. They established their business in Mechanicsburg, Cumberland County, Pennsylvania. The partnership was extant at least between the years 1843-1851, as there are extant signed and dated coverlets that fall within that range. There was a third brother, Emanuel (b. 1830) who was recorded at living with Andrew in the 1850 Federal Census. It is quite likely that as the youngest brother, his older brothers trained him as a coverlet weaver, and he was likely working in the manufactory where this coverlet was made. H. & A. Seifert was dissolved in 1851, and Seifert and Co. established. It is almost certain that Emanuel joined into the partnership with his older brothers. The Seifert coverlets and the evolving business relationships these brothers engaged in tell and show how rural American craftspeople related to technological advancement and new business models.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1847
manufacturer
H. & A. Seifert
ID Number
TE.T9151
catalog number
T09151.000
accession number
170812
catalog number
T-9151

Birdseye twill weave coverlet; Pennsylvania, ca. 1846

There is no information known about the provenance or origins of this coverlet other than it is said to have been woven near Somerset, Pennsylvania around 1846.
Description
There is no information known about the provenance or origins of this coverlet other than it is said to have been woven near Somerset, Pennsylvania around 1846. The pattern is interesting because this blue and white float weave coverlet is imitating a “Bird’s Eye” or “Diamond Twill” weave in the center field, with a zigzag twill border on three sides. Fringes also on three sides. Blue wool weft, natural cotton warp.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1846
ID Number
TE.T10099
catalog number
T10099.000
accession number
060464

Emanuel Melly, Jacquard single woven Coverlet, Pennsylvania, 1838

Emanuel Meily wove this coverlet in 1838. The coverlet is red, white, blue, and green, and is made of cotton and wool. It features a center design of sunburst medallions with lily wreaths.
Description
Emanuel Meily wove this coverlet in 1838. The coverlet is red, white, blue, and green, and is made of cotton and wool. It features a center design of sunburst medallions with lily wreaths. This design is sometimes called “Stars and Lilies.” The lower two corners contain the name of the weaver, Emanuel Meily, his county, Lebanon, Pennsylvania, and the date 1838. Emanuel Meily (about 1805—1869) was born in Lebanon, Pennsylvania, and had his weaving business there. According to Clarita S. Anderson in her book, American Coverlets and Their Weavers, there are two Emanuel Meileys listed in the 1840 census of Lebanon Co. One was a 60 to 70- year-old head of household, (no occupation given) and the other was a 30-to-40-year-old head of household engaged in “manufactures and trades.” The 1850 census lists an Emanuel “Meiley “ as a blue dyer, and the 1860 census lists an Emanuel “Meiley” as a 45 year-old laborer with real estate and personal property.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1838
weaver
Meily, Emanuel
ID Number
TE.T16417
catalog number
T16417
accession number
304266

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