Textiles

Coverlet

The 50,000 objects in the textile collections fall into two main categories: raw fibers, yarns, and fabrics, and machines, tools, and other textile technology. Shawls, coverlets, samplers, laces, linens, synthetics, and other fabrics are part of the first group, along with the 400 quilts in the National Quilt Collection. Some of the Museum's most popular artifacts, such as the Star-Spangled Banner and the gowns of the first ladies, have an obvious textile connection.

The machinery and tools include spinning wheels, sewing machines, thimbles, needlework tools, looms, and an invention that changed the course of American agriculture and society. A model of Eli Whitney's cotton gin, made by the inventor in the early 1800s, shows the workings of a machine that helped make cotton plantations profitable in the South and encouraged the spread of slavery.

Place: United States

Philip H. Anshutz; coverlet; Figured and Fancy, double cloth; c. 1845; Ohio

Philip H. Anshutz (b. 1802) wove this blue and white, Figured and Fancy, double-cloth coverlet in Carrollton, Carroll County, Ohio sometime after 1845.
Description
Philip H. Anshutz (b. 1802) wove this blue and white, Figured and Fancy, double-cloth coverlet in Carrollton, Carroll County, Ohio sometime after 1845. This coverlet measures 81 inches by 75 inches and was woven as one length, cut into two pieces, and hand sewn together to create the width. There is a self-fringe along three sides of the coverlet. The pattern consists of eight whole, large floral wreaths, with eight half wreaths along the sides. Filling in the spaces between wreaths are two floral groups. The elaborate centerfield pattern suggests that Anshutz was very skilled at pattern design and likely producing coverlets in a semi-industrial fashion. The corners of the lower edge have woven inscriptions which read, "xPxH ANHUTZ YN Carrol-ton.” The white yarns are 2-ply s-twist z-spun cotton, and the blue yarns are 2-ply s-twist z-spun wool. The binding is white 2-ply s-twist z-spun wool. The sewing thread 6-ply s-twist z-spun cotton. The yarn count is 22 warp x 20 weft per inch. The top edge is bound in a bias binding and stitched by hand. Philip Anshutz was born in 1802 in Germany and emigrated to Baltimore about 1833. In the 1840 census he was listed as the head of a household in Baltimore engaged in manufactures and trades—likely in one of Baltimore’s large industrial textile mills. He left Baltimore in 1842 with his wife, whose name we only know as the initial W., and moved to Carrollton, Carroll, Co, Ohio. In the 1850 Federal Census, Anshutz was listed as a weaver. It is likely that Anshutz came to American as a trained, industrial weaver or machinist in a factory, worked in Baltimore long enough to raise the capital needed to move west and attempt to establish his own regional mill in Carroll County. This was a common practice for coverlet weavers.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
mid-19th century
mid-19th century ?
c. 1845
weaver
Anshutz, Philip
ID Number
1989.0270.001
accession number
1989.0270
catalog number
1989.0270.01

Ira Hadsell; coverlet; Figured and Fancy, double-cloth; 1859; New York

Ira Hadsell (b. 1813) of Palmyra, New York wove this red and white, Figured and Fancy, double cloth coverlet for Catharine M. Wilson in 1859.
Description
Ira Hadsell (b. 1813) of Palmyra, New York wove this red and white, Figured and Fancy, double cloth coverlet for Catharine M. Wilson in 1859. The coverlet design is symmetrical along the center seam and feature a large compote overflowing with flowers and accent by more botanical designs, birds, and cornucopias. There are borders on all four sides featuring swag garland designs. The warps and wefts are made up of red, S-spin wool singles and white 3-ply cotton yarns. The date"1859" appears woven under each of the cornucopias. "Catherine M. Wilson woven at Palmyra NY by Ira Hadsell" is woven along the bottom border. The coverlet measures 86 inches by 78.75 inches. Ira Hadsell was born March 16, 1813, in Marion, New York. He was the son of Sarah Hadsell and William Cogswell. Ira Hadsell led an interesting, if somewhat difficult life. He was "bound out" to A.R. Galloway and apprenticed as a canal worker at the age of eight. From age 14 through 26, Ira worked at various jobs on the Erie Canal until returning to Palmyra in 1839. Eventually, Ira went to work for James Van Ness, another well-known weaver of Wayne County. Ira Hadsell had finally found his calling. During his lifetime, Hadsell wove over 1,180 coverlets. Ira married Lydia Dansits Scudder (1810-1879) April 9, 1840. On December 30, 1879, he married Laura Jane Ingram (1855 - 1945). He died July 17, 1896. The coverlet was made for Catharine M. Wilson. She was the wife of Daniel P. Wilson and was born c. 1819 in New York. Wilson was the great-grandmother of the donor.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1859
weaver
Hadsell, Ira
ID Number
1986.0880.01
accession number
1986.0880
catalog number
1986.0880.01

Coverlet; Figured and Fancy, double cloth; 1836; New Jersey

An as-of-yet unidentified weaver from the Bergen County, New Jersey area wove this medium blue and dark blue, Figured and Fancy, double cloth, coverlet.
Description
An as-of-yet unidentified weaver from the Bergen County, New Jersey area wove this medium blue and dark blue, Figured and Fancy, double cloth, coverlet. There is no center seam, indicating that this coverlet was woven on a broad loom, which would have required at least two weavers to throw the shuttle back and forth or a spring-loaded fly shuttle. The centerfield design is made up of an ovular central medallion composed of various flowers including what appears to be hyacinths. There is a ring of silhouetted floral designs and fylfots circling that. There is a double border of grape vines and single grape leafs with grapes on three sides. The outer border is cut off and the inner border is cut almost in half along the top. The name Mary Van Emburgh and the date 1838, are woven into the two lower corners. The thread count of this coverlet is 16 warp and 18 weft per inch. The fringe is three inches deep. There is a possibility that this coverlet was woven by David Haring (1880-1889) or a weaver in his shop. Harring is known to have owned a broad loom and the designs, layout, and double border all fall into his design aesthetic.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1838
ID Number
1981.0274.06
accession number
1981.0274
catalog number
1981.0274.06

Susan Jane Thompson Deuel's crazy patchwork needle book, ca. 1880

A crazy quilt style needlecase, with an inside Kate Greenaway design from Briggs & Co book of patterns, page 100 #519. Briggs & Co. was founded in 1874. They invented the iron-on method for transferring an embroidery design onto a piece of fabric.
Description
A crazy quilt style needlecase, with an inside Kate Greenaway design from Briggs & Co book of patterns, page 100 #519. Briggs & Co. was founded in 1874. They invented the iron-on method for transferring an embroidery design onto a piece of fabric. Kate Greenaway was an English artist and illustrator/writer of children's book, cards, calendars and much more. Her subjects mainly consisted of children, young girls, flowers, and landscapes. Kate’s books were very popular in both Britain and America. Her artwork has endured and is still in print today. She was born in London, March 17, 1846 and died November 6, 1901.
The needlecase was embroidered by Susan Jane Thompson ca. 1880 who married John W. Deuel on March 15, 1853 in Gowanda, New York. She was born on March 9, 1830 in Derby, Connecticut to Ezra and Cornelia Baldwin Thompson and died on July 21, 1903 in Van Wies Point, New York. They had three daughters – Harriet, Bertha, and Sarah.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca. 1880
maker
Deuel, Susan Thompson
ID Number
TE.T18171
catalog number
T18171.000
accession number
1977.0179

Embroidery foundation letter shapes by G. Reis & Bro., NYC

Woven cotton foundations in letter shapes to be placed on fabric and embroidered over with silk floss in order to give the initials definition and dimensionality. One package with 2 cursive Gs and one package with one gothic C; in wax paper packaging under Reis' Tex brand name.
Description
Woven cotton foundations in letter shapes to be placed on fabric and embroidered over with silk floss in order to give the initials definition and dimensionality. One package with 2 cursive Gs and one package with one gothic C; in wax paper packaging under Reis' Tex brand name. Made by G. Reis & Bro., Inc. New York. Retail sticker label from John Daniell & Sons, Broadway New York; with handwritten prices ".10 ea." ".06" Needlework was an important skill and a popular leisure activity. These foundation shapes for letters enabled even amatuer stitchers to include initials or words and phrases with uniform sizing and style in their work.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca. 1900
ID Number
TE.T15472.56
accession number
293999
catalog number
T15472

Floral Argentan Needle Lace Edging

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
ID Number
2013.0121.45
accession number
2013.0121
catalog number
2013.0121.45

Cheney Brothers Figured Silk Frisons, 1913

Length of a Cheney Brothers jacquard-figured silk 'Frisons', meaning a textured surface from a slubbed weft yarn, 1913. Jacquard-woven repeating design of an ogee grid with stylized tulips in the reserves.
Description (Brief)
Length of a Cheney Brothers jacquard-figured silk 'Frisons', meaning a textured surface from a slubbed weft yarn, 1913. Jacquard-woven repeating design of an ogee grid with stylized tulips in the reserves. Slubbed plain weave "silk frisons" ground with coarse weft float patterning. Inspired by an early 17th c. ogee pattern with tulips. Piece dyed dusty rose (dull medium pink). (W. 32 in., L. 36 in.)
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1913
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T00098
catalog number
T00098.000
accession number
55080

Cheney Brothers "Printed Frisons" dress silk, 1913

A sample length of Cheney Brothers "Printed Frisons" dress silk, 1913. Pinkish-tan ground of slubbed (spun silk yarns) plain weave silk, printed with a closely spaced modernist design of irregular multi-colored spots.
Description (Brief)
A sample length of Cheney Brothers "Printed Frisons" dress silk, 1913. Pinkish-tan ground of slubbed (spun silk yarns) plain weave silk, printed with a closely spaced modernist design of irregular multi-colored spots. Fauve-inspired print colors are dark green, orange, yellow, medium green, medium blue, light blue, dark red, Some colors may be due to overprinting one shade with another. File gives fabric width as 30", with a donation of a full yard length. Cheney's numbers are: Com: 3755; No: 77357, Color: 3724/1 Part of a large donation of fibers, yarns, fabrics, original designs, and printing tools given by Cheney Brothers, one of the earliest and largest of America's silk manufacturers, in 1913.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1913
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T01032.000
catalog number
T01032.000
accession number
56298

Cheney Brothers Figured Furnishing Silk, 1913

Length of Cheney Brothers jacquard-woven, figured furnishing silk, 1913. The pattern is a simplified version of an 18th c. floral ogee medallion design in a compound weave, with matte pale green flowers on a finely striped (faux strie), satin weave green ground. (W. 50 in., L.
Description (Brief)
Length of Cheney Brothers jacquard-woven, figured furnishing silk, 1913. The pattern is a simplified version of an 18th c. floral ogee medallion design in a compound weave, with matte pale green flowers on a finely striped (faux strie), satin weave green ground. (W. 50 in., L. 36 in.) Mfrs. #s: Com. 4564; No 77953; Color 3486/1.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1913
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T01053.000
catalog number
T01053.000

Lace Pattern; named Pattern No. 1; Sara Hadley

Printed lace pattern, named Pattern No. 1. Sold by Sara Hadley, New York. Only the dots are printed, not the little numbers indicating the sequence of working the pattern. The pattern has not been used.Currently not on view
Description (Brief)
Printed lace pattern, named Pattern No. 1. Sold by Sara Hadley, New York. Only the dots are printed, not the little numbers indicating the sequence of working the pattern. The pattern has not been used.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1903
ID Number
2016.0048.09A
accession number
2016.0048
catalog number
2016.0048.09A

Cheney Brothers Silk Brocade Upholstery Fabric, 1925

Length of Cheney Brothers silk fabric. Jacquard-woven, continuous supplementary weft patterned all-silk fabric composed of spun silk warp with 12 shuttles of different colors of silk producing the figures.
Description
Length of Cheney Brothers silk fabric. Jacquard-woven, continuous supplementary weft patterned all-silk fabric composed of spun silk warp with 12 shuttles of different colors of silk producing the figures. Patterned with a 17th century (Baroque) Flemish-style medallion and meander design of urns of flowers and wreaths of flowers, wheat, and grapes in blue, green, purple, and pink on narrow striped yellow ground. Style 4584/4. Wholesaled for $18.75 per yd. (W. 50 in., L. 3 1/3 yds.)
These furnishing silks were, along with the patterned velvets, represent the most expensive and exclusive textiles that Cheney Brothers produced.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1925
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T05114.000
catalog number
T05114.000

coverlet; Figured and Fancy, tied-Beiderwand; c. 1860; poss. Ohio

This Figured and Fancy, tied-Beiderwand coverlet passed down through the donor’s maternal line for many generations before coming the collections of the National Museum of American History.
Description
This Figured and Fancy, tied-Beiderwand coverlet passed down through the donor’s maternal line for many generations before coming the collections of the National Museum of American History. The centerfield design is composed of a large “Double Rose” central motif contained within a cut-corner square. Outside of this is another cut-corner square filled with floral designs. Beyond this in the centerfield can be found a Great Seal eagle in each corner and floral swag accents. The stylized floral and foliate border can be found on all four sides of the coverlet. There is an applied fringe along three sides of the coverlet. This coverlet does feature a center seam, indicating hand-loom production. There is no signature, trademark, or date on the coverlet. The coverlet measures 81 inches by 78 inches.
The coverlet descended through the Marvel family of Indiana who moved west from Delaware in 1833. On their way westward, the family lived for a time in Muskingum, Ohio around 1860. It is likely here where the coverlet was acquired. The style and structure are more common in Ohio than Indiana, where coverlet weavers tended to weave double cloth coverlets and favor two colors rather than the horizontal banding found in many Pennsylvania and Ohio coverlets. The donor received the coverlet from her mother, Julia Typhene Nelson Studebaker who had received the coverlet from her parents, Robert Marvel and Julia Ann Marvel Dickerson Jones. Robert Marvel’s parents, Robert and Sarah Wilkins Marvel were the original owners of the coverlet and according to the family, the couple used the coverlet in their double log cabin in Indiana.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
ca. 1860
ca. 1860
ID Number
1982.0750.01
accession number
1982.0750
catalog number
1982.0750.01

Geometric Double-cloth "Snowball Tree" Coverlet, 1800-1850

This blue and white double-woven coverlet features a "Snowball Tree" central field motif, with wavy line borders on three sides. It was woven with cotton and wool yarns, and has a fringe on all four sides.
Description
This blue and white double-woven coverlet features a "Snowball Tree" central field motif, with wavy line borders on three sides. It was woven with cotton and wool yarns, and has a fringe on all four sides. The lower edge has a self-fringe, while the sides have tape fringes that travel to the top edge and run along that edge for twenty-two inches. This coverlet was woven in two sections that were sewn together on each side. According to the donor, the yarn was spun and the coverlet was woven in the home of her great-grandmother (no name given.) The coverlet dates from the first half of the 19th century. Double-woven coverlets are reversible, with the dark color dominant on one side, and the light color dominante on the other. Such coverlets are complicated to weave and require two separate sets of warp and filling yarns.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1800-1850
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.H12765
catalog number
H012765.000
accession number
053657
53657

Armenian needlelace flowers (oya).

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
ID Number
2013.0121.09
accession number
2013.0121
catalog number
2013.0121.09

Craig Family; Figured and Fancy coverlet; double-cloth; 1848; Indiana

This Figured and Fancy coverlet features a centerfield design based on the “Double Lily” pattern but accentuated with double lotus and “Liberty,” shielded eagle motifs. There are borders along all four sides.
Description
This Figured and Fancy coverlet features a centerfield design based on the “Double Lily” pattern but accentuated with double lotus and “Liberty,” shielded eagle motifs. There are borders along all four sides. The top and bottom borders feature the “Bellflower and Bluebells” pattern associated with the Craig Family of Indiana. The side borders feature “Peacocks feeding their young” and what has been referred to as the Capitol. This coverlet, as with all Craig coverlets, is double-cloth woven in dark and medium red, white & blue wool and cotton with a fringe along bottom edge. All four corner block are dated 1848 and depict a building with a cupola. This motif is associated with the Craig family of Indiana. Donor information found in the accession file states that the maker was William Craig, Original incoming cataloging records that this coverlet came in as two separate pieces. It is now seamed together, but there is no information in the file to say when that was done. Coverlet seams were released during washing and as Colonial Revival became popular, many families repurposed their heirloom coverlets as curtains and portieres.
The Craig Family weavers consist of Scottish-born, William Craig, Sr. (1800-1880), Scottish-born cousin, James Craig (1819-1896), William Craig, Jr. (1824-1880), and James Craig (1823-1889) make up the two generations of weavers who intermarried with other Scottish immigrant weaving families, dominating the coverlet market in Floyd, Decatur, and Washington counties in Indiana. It is almost certain that their regional influence extended into Western Kentucky as well. The Craigs were prodigious weavers and entrepreneurs and the number of extant coverlets attest to this fact. Also of interest is a published interview with William Sr.'s granddaughter, Rena Craig Gilchrist found in Indiana Coverlets and Coverlet Weavers (1928) by Kate Milner Rabb. Rena Craig Gilchrist recounted how her grandfather was born in Kilmarnock, Scotland in 1800, moving to South Carolina in 1820 to assume the role of foreman at a Southern cotton goods factory. In 1832 the Craigs and other immigrant weaving families, the Gilchrists and Youngs moved to Mt. Caramel, Indiana. In 1838, the family moved again, further distributing weavers, to Decatur County, Indiana. The Craigs at first wove on their farm just outside of Greensburg, Indiana, but soon sons William Jr. and James ventured out on their own, marrying other weaver’s daughters, and establishing workshops in Greensburg and Anderson. Their coverlet weaving became regionally famous and people were reported as having come from fifty to sixty miles by wagon with woolen yarn for enough coverlets for each child at marriage.
The Craigs continued to weave until 1860 when William Sr. retired. Cousin James opened a shop in Canton, Indiana. A local resident described his loom as," “different from any other loom I have ever seen in that the threads of the warp were each run through a loop of cords to which were attached leaden weights about the size of an ordinary lead pencil, and I should think from twelve to fifteen inches in length. I do not remember accurately about that. The other end of each cord was attached to a pedal, of which there was a considerable number. A number of cords may have been attached to a pedal, according to the colors and figures being used. This enabled him to depress any of the threads of the warp that he pleased by operating the pedals with his feet, thus opening a space for the passing of the shuttle, of which he used as many as he wished colors in the pattern.” This description suggests that members of the Craig family were using modified drawlooms, possibly what is sometimes referred to a Scotch loom, which was used to weave figured double-cloth ingrain carpet. This is interesting because the introduction of the Jacquard head attachment, which used chains of punch cards, made figured weaving much faster and cheaper in the decades before the Craig family’s foray into coverlet weaving.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1848
maker
Craig Family
ID Number
TE.T12849
catalog number
T12849.000
accession number
243362

Late 16th C Needle Lace Border Fragment

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
ID Number
2013.0121.30
accession number
2013.0121
catalog number
2013.0121.30

Daniel King; coverlet; Jacquard; tied-Beiderwand; 1848; Ohio

Daniel King (1827-1888) wove this blue and white, tied-Beiderwand, Jacquard coverlet in Wayne Township, Tuscarawas County, Ohio in 1848.
Description
Daniel King (1827-1888) wove this blue and white, tied-Beiderwand, Jacquard coverlet in Wayne Township, Tuscarawas County, Ohio in 1848. The centerfield pattern appears to be made up of alternating half-drop rows of stylized “Double Irises” and “Double Potted Plants” that almost extend into one another, unifying the centerfield design. The side borders depict meandering grape vines, while the bottom border shows a meandering hops plant vine. Hops and grapes both being respectively used in the production of beer and wine. The cornerblocks in the lower corners contain the woven inscription, “DANIEL/KING/TUSCAR/AWAS/CO.OHIO/1848.” The warp is composed of 2-ply, S-twist, Z-spun cotton yarns and a binding warp of Z-spun cotton singles. The weft yarns are 2-ply, S-twist, Z-spun cotton and wool yarns. The coverlet measures 82.5 inches by 66 inches and is constructed of two panels stitched together with a center seam. There is self-fringe on the sides of the coverlet and likely along the bottom edge as well. The bottom fringe has been worm away over time.
King was born in Pennsylvania, moving to Tuscarawas County, Ohio by at least 1848, making this coverlet one of his earliest known pieces. He and his wife, Catherine Kenegy lived and worked in Wayne Township until relocating in 1854 to Stark County, Ohio. In 1864, King served in the Union Army during the Civil War, fighting with Company K of the 163rd Regiment of the Ohio Voluntary Infantry.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1848
maker
King, Daniel
ID Number
TE.T17654
catalog number
T17654.00S
accession number
321743

Beadwork Bag

A knitted beadwork purse, with a stylized flower repeat design, front and back. There are small flower bands at the bottom. It has a beaded twisted looped fringe at the bottom. Frame and fastener of German silver, with gold finish chain attached.
Description
A knitted beadwork purse, with a stylized flower repeat design, front and back. There are small flower bands at the bottom. It has a beaded twisted looped fringe at the bottom. Frame and fastener of German silver, with gold finish chain attached. Lined with blue silk, with a pocket. Beaded bags and knitted bags were fashionable in the 1800s. It was made by Clara Augusta Harvey Todd who was born to Charles and Augusta Farnsworth Harvey on June 27, 1869 in Methuen, MA. She married Burton D Todd and had a daughter Arvilla.
Location
Currently not on view
maker
Todd, Clara Augusta Harvey
ID Number
TE.T15177
catalog number
T15177.000
accession number
290955

Memorial Sampler for Rev. Samuel Hopkins

The entire text on this sampler is worked in black silk, using color only for the border and one crossband. The top center contains a 3 x 3 ½” space that is outlined with basting stitches in tan silk, but is completely empty.
Description
The entire text on this sampler is worked in black silk, using color only for the border and one crossband. The top center contains a 3 x 3 ½” space that is outlined with basting stitches in tan silk, but is completely empty. It probably was intended to contain a memorial monument or urn. Working the sampler in black indicated death and including a Bible passage on a sampler was common as most families owned that book. The sampler is stitched with silk embroidery thread on a linen ground with a thread count of warp 27, weft 28/in. The stitches used are cross and crosslet.
The sampler maker did not include her name, but was honoring a well respected minister. Samuel Hopkins was born on October 31, 1729, and married Sarah Porter on February 17, 1756. She was a widow with five children, and they had nine more children. After Sarah died, Samuel married Margaret Stoddard on October 16, 1776, and they had one child. He was ordained as the fourth minister of the church in Hadley, Massachusetts on February 26, 1755, and served until February of 1809, when he was struck with a paralysis which impaired his mental faculties. He died on March 8, 1811.
Location
Currently not on view
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.E388183
catalog number
E388183
accession number
182022

Sally Precinda Chaffee's Sampler

This sampler features two block alphabets of 26 letters, with numbers to 8.
Description
This sampler features two block alphabets of 26 letters, with numbers to 8. Below the alphabets is the inscription:

“Sally Precinda Chaffee 1849
11 years of Age”
This sampler was not done on fabric but on perforated paper, a light weight card that first became available in the 1820s and was commonly used for bookmarks and mottos. The sampler is stitched with cotton and wool embroidery thread on perforated paper with a count of 15/in. The stitches used are cross and tent.
Sally Precinda Chaffee was born on September 6, 1838, to Samuel and Ursula Selenda James Chaffee in Berkshire, Franklin county, Vermont. She died unmarried on August 30, 1857, in Berkshire, Vermont.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1849
maker
Chaffee, Sally Precinda
ID Number
TE.T09688
catalog number
T9688
accession number
173352

Cheney Brothers Printed "Princess Satin" dress silk, 1915

A length of Cheney Brothers printed "Princess Satin" dress silk, 1915.
Description (Brief)
A length of Cheney Brothers printed "Princess Satin" dress silk, 1915. Lightweight, drapey satin-weave silk fabric, printed with Japanese-inspired modernist design featuring striped white and pink, orange, green, gray flower heads and sprays and black and white arcs on a purple ground. (W. 30 in., L. 36 in.) The diagonally striped flower heads are suggestive of Japanese textile printing techniques.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1915
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T02637.000
catalog number
T02637.000
accession number
58458

Cheney Brothers Figured Silk Furnishing Fabric, 1913

Length of Cheney Brothers lightweight figured silk fabric, 1913. Broken twill weave ground with weft-float patterning of Chinese dragon roundels.Company term was "Broche", but this is not a brocade in the strict sense, just a weft float figure, no supplementary wefts. All silk.
Description (Brief)
Length of Cheney Brothers lightweight figured silk fabric, 1913. Broken twill weave ground with weft-float patterning of Chinese dragon roundels.Company term was "Broche", but this is not a brocade in the strict sense, just a weft float figure, no supplementary wefts. All silk. Piece dyed medium gray-blue. Circular medallions w/ five-toed dragons.Company literature says it was “Used for curtains. Jacquard loom warp of reeled Japan two-thread organzine. Filling Canton rereeled. Pure dye.” [Source: “The Upholsterer” 15 Feb. 1918 pg. 62, “The Upholsterer” 15 Aug 1924 pg. 105.] (W. 30 in., L. 36 in.)
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1913
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T00095
catalog number
T00095.000
accession number
55080

Philip Schum; coverlet; Jacquard; double-cloth; 1869; Pennsylvania

This coverlet features horizontal color banding in stripes of red, green, muted aqua, and muted purple. A large scalloped floral medallion dominates the centerfield design. The four corners have faces of Washington flanked by confronted horses.
Description
This coverlet features horizontal color banding in stripes of red, green, muted aqua, and muted purple. A large scalloped floral medallion dominates the centerfield design. The four corners have faces of Washington flanked by confronted horses. Below Washington’s portrait bust is a banderole with his name. Under this is an eagle in flight with a banderole in its beak proclaiming, “Hail 1869,” and beneath that, tucked into each corner is a steamboat flying the American flag. In the middle of the border designs is an onion-domed rendition of the Capitol Building. Factory produced coverlet. Floral scrollwork and birds unite the border design. Although this coverlet is unsigned, it is identical to one signed by Philip Schum’s Lancaster Carpet, Coverlet, Quilt, and Yarn Manufactory. This coverlet measures 88 inches by 73 inches and has no center seam. It was likely produced on a power loom with a Jacquard attachment.
Philip Schum (1814-1880) was born In Hesse-Darmstadt, Holy Roman Empire. He immigrated to New York, moving to Lancaster County, PA in approximately 1844. He was not trained as a weaver and there is no evidence that he ever was. What we do know is that Philip Schum was a savvy businessman. He worked first as a "Malt Tramper" in New York, a position presumably linked to brewing and malting of grains. After six months, Philip was able to afford to bring his first wife Ana Margartha Bond (1820-1875) to join him in Pennsylvania. Once reunited, Philip worked as a day laborer, shoemaker, and basket-maker. He purchased a small general store in Lancaster City in 1852. By 1856, he has built his business enough to sell at a profit and purchase the Lancaster Carpet, Coverlet, Quilt, and Yarn Manufactory. Philip's first wife, Anna, passed away sometime before 1879, because in this year, Philip married his second wife, Anna Margaret Koch (1834-1880). The two were tragically killed in a train accident in 1880, when a locomotive stuck their horse and buggy. The New Era, a local Lancaster newspaper titled the article about the incident with the headline, "Death's Harvest." Lancaster Carpet, Coverlet, Quilt, and Yarn Manufactory began with just one or two looms and four men. It grew to four looms and eight men quickly. By 1875, the factory had twenty looms and employed forty men. Philip Schum was no weaver. He was an entrepreneur and businessman who invested in the growing market for household textiles. Philip's estate inventory included a carpet shop, weaving shop, dye house, two stores, and a coal yard. At the time of his death were also listed 390 "Half-wool coverlets." These were valued at $920. In 1878, Philip partnered with his son, John E. Schum to form, Philip Schum, Son, and Co. Another Schum coverlet is in the collections of the MFA-Houston.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
19th century
date made
second half 19th century
1869
maker
Schum, Philip
ID Number
1997.0375.01
accession number
1997.0375

Coverlet; Figured and Fancy, double cloth; 1817; New York

This Figured and Fancy, double cloth coverlet was woven for Sally Loper in Westbury, Long Island, New York in 1817. This is the oldest known dated Figured and Fancy coverlet. The centerfield design is composed of rows of pine trees and tulips.
Description
This Figured and Fancy, double cloth coverlet was woven for Sally Loper in Westbury, Long Island, New York in 1817. This is the oldest known dated Figured and Fancy coverlet. The centerfield design is composed of rows of pine trees and tulips. The borders found on all four sides were created from directional fractional reductions of the centerfield motifs. The name of the owner Sally Loper, and the date, December 2, 1817, are woven into the upper right hand corner. The place, Westbury, Long Island, is also woven opposite the name. The coverlet measures 88.5 inches by 81 inches and was constructed from two panels woven as one length, cut, and seamed up the middle. Sarah (Sally) Bishop Loper (b. 1780) was married to Luther Loper (b. 1780). The coverlet passed to their daughter, Elmirah Jane Loper Pine, her daughter, Edna Pine Dunning, and finally to her daughter, the donor, Jane Dunning Dirks.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1817-12-02
1817
owner
Loper, Sarah Bishop
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T15535
catalog number
T15535.000
accession number
294367

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