Textiles

Coverlet

The 50,000 objects in the textile collections fall into two main categories: raw fibers, yarns, and fabrics, and machines, tools, and other textile technology. Shawls, coverlets, samplers, laces, linens, synthetics, and other fabrics are part of the first group, along with the 400 quilts in the National Quilt Collection. Some of the Museum's most popular artifacts, such as the Star-Spangled Banner and the gowns of the first ladies, have an obvious textile connection.

The machinery and tools include spinning wheels, sewing machines, thimbles, needlework tools, looms, and an invention that changed the course of American agriculture and society. A model of Eli Whitney's cotton gin, made by the inventor in the early 1800s, shows the workings of a machine that helped make cotton plantations profitable in the South and encouraged the spread of slavery.

Date: 1830s

Jacob B. Gernand; coverlet; Jacquard; tied-Beiderwand; 1836-1839; Maryland

This blue and white, Jacquard, tied-Beiderwand coverlet can be attributed to Jacob B. Gernand (1797-1871) likely between the years 1836-1839 in Graceham, Frederick County, Maryland.
Description
This blue and white, Jacquard, tied-Beiderwand coverlet can be attributed to Jacob B. Gernand (1797-1871) likely between the years 1836-1839 in Graceham, Frederick County, Maryland. This coverlet features a “Double Flower” carpet medallion centerfield, possibly a chrysanthemum, with a double “Tulip and Vine” and Greek key side border and stylized “Fruiting Hops Vine” bottom border. There is a self-fringe on the sides and bottom border. "MIDDLE/TOWN/FRED_K/COUNTY/MARY-" is woven into the lowers cornerblocks. It is these cornerblocks that help to attribute this coverlet to Gernand. Of the known weavers in Frederick County, Maryland, Jacob B. Gernand is the only weaver to abbreviate Frederick as “FRED_K.” Gernand purchased the rights to a patented Jacquard loom in 1835, and his only dated coverlet was woven in 1836. This coverlet measures 79 inches by 74 inches and is constructed of two panels with a center seam. Gernand used 3-ply, S-twist, Z-spun cotton for the warp and weft, 2-ply, S-twist, Z-spun wool for the pattern weft, and Z-spun cotton singles as a binding warp.
Jacob Gernand was born in Frederick County and married three times. His first wife was Elizabeth Williar. He married his second wife, Anna Theodora Becker in 1823, and his third wife was Sybilla Wilhide. He had children with each of his wives. Two of those children were also known weavers, Eugene J. Gernand and William H. Gernand (1823-1883). Jacob was very active in the Moravian Church and served as his local postmaster for many decades. The 1850 Maryland Census listed Jacob as a farm with real estate valued at $1450.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1836-1839
referenced
Uber, Frederick
Coride, Andrew
ID Number
TE.T17298
catalog number
T17298
T.17298
accession number
315253

Nathaniel Young; Figured and Fancy coverlet, double-cloth; 1836; New York or New Jersey

This coverlet has a side to side and top-to-bottom mirror image depicting flowers, fruits, cornucopias, and scrollwork, except for the center medallion, which contains the information "Phebe Ann Baylis 1836" embellished with four simple birds on the wing and a pair of rosettes, a
Description
This coverlet has a side to side and top-to-bottom mirror image depicting flowers, fruits, cornucopias, and scrollwork, except for the center medallion, which contains the information "Phebe Ann Baylis 1836" embellished with four simple birds on the wing and a pair of rosettes, all framed by a garland of simple stylized flowers. The arabesque leafy border is interrupted on either side by a strangely proportioned urn and scattered eight-pointed stars, along with fruits, flowers, and birds sparsely placed between the center of motif and border. The coverlet is double-cloth containing two sets of cotton and indigo-dyed wool, warp and weft. The coverlet was woven for Phebe Anne Baylis (b. 1828) of Suffolk County, New York in 1836, when she was just eight-years-old. It was common practice for parents to being building up their children’s wedding trousseaus at an early age, and coverlets and other bedclothes were an expected contribution from the family. It was not uncommon for families to place coverlet orders with weavers for all of their children at once. This coverlet is representative of this arrangement.
According to the 1850 Federal Census, Baylis, at age 22, was living in the household of her 29-year-old brother, Orlando (b. 1821) with her presumably widowed mother, Mehitable (b. 1801) in Suffolk County, New York. The weaver of this coverlet has been the source of much debate over the past thirty years. Nathaniel Young (life dates unknown) was the weaver of this coverlet. His life is a bit of a mystery, but he was likely a Scottish immigrant, first working in the vicinity of New York City and later moving and working in Hudson, Bergen, and finally Morris County, New Jersey. Unsigned Nathaniel Young coverlets are identifiable by the stylized foxglove flower found in the corners of this coverlet, which may appear as a shaded pear to modern audiences. It is unclear whether Young worked for New Jersey’s most famous coverlet weaver David Haring (1800-1889), but the similarity in design and pattern is striking. The details of his life have yet to be fully worked out. He was first described as an itinerant weaver, but the cumbersome nature of the barrel or cylinder loom he would have been using would make this very unlikely. The style and arrangement of the patterns of Young and Haring’s New Jersey coverlets are also linked to those found and made on Long Island, New York, and the existence of this identifiable coverlet may be the missing link connecting those early Long Island coverlets written about by Susan Rabbit Goody with the later coverlets from New Jersey in a similar style.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1836
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T16835
catalog number
T16835.000
accession number
306589

Laura Stone's Sampler

In the center section, a two and one half story house is flanked by birds on trees and flower baskets. The house on Laura Stone’s sampler may have some important meaning to her.
Description
In the center section, a two and one half story house is flanked by birds on trees and flower baskets. The house on Laura Stone’s sampler may have some important meaning to her. To achieve the look of bricks, she stitched two cross stitches over two threads by two threads and then left a single thread blank. She also left a single thread blank between each row of stitches. The flower baskets symbolize friendship and love, and the birds on the trees would indicate her love of nature. The sampler is stitched with silk embroidery thread on a linen ground with a thread count of warp 46, weft 40/in. The stitches used are cross, satin, chain, detached chain, Algerian eye, stem, and eyelet. This sampler has been attributed by descendants to Laura Stone.
Laura Stone was born June 22, 1806, to Amaziah and Fanny Hall Stone in Chesterfield, New Hampshire. She married John P. Henry (1806 –1847) in 1834. They had six children - Maria Abigail (1836-), John Harfield (1838-), Elizabeth Laura (1840-), Charles E. (1842-), James S. (1844-), and George L. (1846-). She married David Holman in 1850, and she died on March 21, 1863. Harlan Fiske Stone (Chief Justice of the United States 1941-1946) was the grandson of her twin brother Lauson Stone.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1830
maker
Stone, Laura
ID Number
TE.T17766
catalog number
T17766
accession number
315495

John (Johannes) Kaufman; coverlet; Jacquard, tied-Beiderwand; 1839; Pennsylvania

John (Johannes) Kaufman (1812-1863) wove this Jacquard, tied-Beiderwand coverlet which features a “Double Lily” carpet medallion centerfield pattern. There is an inner border of addorsed roosters and garlands and an outer border of double flowers along the sides and bottom.
Description
John (Johannes) Kaufman (1812-1863) wove this Jacquard, tied-Beiderwand coverlet which features a “Double Lily” carpet medallion centerfield pattern. There is an inner border of addorsed roosters and garlands and an outer border of double flowers along the sides and bottom. There are also two inscribed cornerblocks identifying the maker, customer, place made, and date. Kaufman used red wool and indigo-dyed cotton to weave this coverlet in tied-Beiderwand structure. Sometimes called single-Jacquard, this structure is an integrated weave and identifiable by the ribbed texture of the textile. In the upper left hand corner there is a large amount of red yarn missing due to wear. Smaller amounts of red yarn is missing from five others areas on the coverlet.
John (Johannes) Kaufman (1812-1863) was a Mennonite weaver. He was born in Lehigh County, Pennsylvania and began weaving in Hilltown Township in Bucks County in 1837. Samuel Moyer was the customer for whom the coverlet was woven. There are five Samuel Moyers buried in the Blooming Glen Mennonite Meetinghouse graveyard alongside Kaufman, and it is almost certain one of these interrelated Samuels that was the commissioner of the coverlet. This correlation reflects that artisan weavers often gained customers from trade and community networks which they were already a part of. Pennsylvania coverlet scholar, Ron Walter estimates that Kaufman wove between 400 and 500 coverlets. Most are still owned by family descendants but some are in the collections at NMAH, the Pennsylvania Museum of Art, the Mennonite Heritage Center, and private collections like Walter's. Kauffman is known to have operated as a weaver from 1837-1847 when rival weaver, Samuel B. Musselman seemingly forced him out of business. This coverlet is different than most other Kaufman coverlets, because of the indigo-dyed cotton warp threads. His other extant coverlets feature the typical horizontal color bands of reds, greens, blues, and white common in Pennsylvania coverlets. The donor purchased the coverlet in 1927 in nearby Quakertown, Bucks County, Pennsylvania.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1839
maker
Kaufman, John
ID Number
TE.T8137
catalog number
T08137.000
accession number
145933

Overshot coverlet, Virginia, 1830s?

Overshot, natural & indigo-dyed coverlet; Pine Bloom design. Probably made in VA by the donors great-grandmother Johnston (no middle name given) (Elizabeth Babb Rusk's grandmother Johnston.)Currently not on view
Description (Brief)
Overshot, natural & indigo-dyed coverlet; Pine Bloom design. Probably made in VA by the donors great-grandmother Johnston (no middle name given) (Elizabeth Babb Rusk's grandmother Johnston.)
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1830s
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T9002
catalog number
T09002.000
accession number
168187

John Thorp's Patent Model of a Loom Harness

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
patent date
1838-12-31
inventor
Thorp, John
Angell, William G.
ID Number
TE.T11409.010
catalog number
T.11409.010
accession number
89797
patent number
1,051

attr. Henry Goodrich; coverlet, Figured and Fancy, double-cloth; 1831; New York

This is a blue and white, double-cloth, Figured and Fancy coverlet features along fringe three sides, and a spread eagle lower border. The center design is variation of the “Double Rose” carpet medallion pattern with ivy leaf accents.
Description
This is a blue and white, double-cloth, Figured and Fancy coverlet features along fringe three sides, and a spread eagle lower border. The center design is variation of the “Double Rose” carpet medallion pattern with ivy leaf accents. The side borders display an interlocking “Double Flower” motif that is reminiscent of lotus flowers. The two lower corner blocks feature pairs of dogs and a woven inscription which reads, "1831 EAW/ Pompey." There is a four inch self-fringe on the lower edge and an applied fringe on the sides that is also four inches long. The coverlet was constructed of two panels that were woven as one length, cut, and seamed up the middle.
This coverlet was woven in Pompey, Onondaga County, New York in 1831. There has been some scholarly debate about who the Pompey weaver(s) may have been. At first scholars looked for a weaver with the last name Pompey, but they quickly realized the weaver was operating in the town of Pompey. There are extant dated coverlets in this style ranging from 1831-1836. There three coverlet weavers in Pompey at the time. Benjamin June and his son, Benjamin Jr. and Henry L. Goodrich. All three of these weavers could possibly be the maker of this and the other Pompey coverlets; however, the signed June family coverlets omit the town name from their designs, leaving Goodrich the most likely candidate. Federal census records list Henry as a resident of Rensselaer County, New York in 1830 and 1840, but occupation was not a recorded category in the early census. It is unclear when and why Henry spent time in Onondaga County and more research is needed to unravel the mystery and confirm or deny the attribution of these coverlets to Goodrich. The style of this coverlet is reflective the organization, arrangement, and style of the earlier Figured and Fancy coverlets foun
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1831
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T18211
catalog number
T18211.000
accession number
1977.0101

Jonathan Conger; Figured and Fancy coverlet; tied-Beiderwand; 1836; New York

This blue and white, tied-Beiderwand, Figured and Fancy coverlet was woven at Jonathan Conger’s manufactory in Groton, New York in 1836. The centerfield features a “Double Lily and Starburst” carpet medallion pattern. The three borders feature the “Eagle and Willow” pattern.
Description
This blue and white, tied-Beiderwand, Figured and Fancy coverlet was woven at Jonathan Conger’s manufactory in Groton, New York in 1836. The centerfield features a “Double Lily and Starburst” carpet medallion pattern. The three borders feature the “Eagle and Willow” pattern. The two cornerblocks include woven inscriptions dating the coverlet to 1836 and listing the location, Groton, New York in Tompkins County. The coverlet measures 88 inches long by 66 inches wide, and it was woven into two 33 inch wide panels and joined together with a center seam. The date "1836" is woven in the lower corners along with the words, “Groton N. York." There is no fringe. The coverlet was woven using 2-ply, S-Twist, Z-Spun cotton in the warp and weft, Z-spun cotton singles as the binding warp, and 2-Ply, S-Twist, Z-Spun wool for the patterning weft.
Jonathan Conger (1801-1867) was a weaver, inventor, and businessman who wove or supervised the weaving of coverlets, ingrain carpeting, Venetian carpeting, and a variety of kinds of coverlets—first in Tompkins County, New York and later in Chemung County. In 1831, Conger and a man named George Deterich registered a patent for “a new and useful improvement in the Machine for Weaving Figured Cloth.” Conger operated a manufactory in Groton from 1829-1836, moving to Southport, NY and operating his business from 1837-1839. According to the 1850 Federal Census, he had made sufficient money to invest in land and agriculture, because he is listed as a farmer with $5650 in real estate. He may have employed other local weavers, Austin Tyler, his son, Simeon, and a man named Baley Merrill to weave alongside him or even work for him. Figured and Fancy coverlet weavers are best understood as rural industrialists and capitalist rather than craftspeople fighting the tide of industrialization. In many instances, as is the case with Conger, they were among the first people to invest and develop the capital needed to introduce industrial factory-style production to the rural American interior.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1836
referenced
Conger, Jonanthon
manufacturer
Thompkins Company
ID Number
TE.T14679
catalog number
T14679.00S
accession number
279893

"Big Lion" group; coverlet; Figured and Fancy; double-cloth; c.1835-1845; New York

This coverlet is from what is known as the “Big Lion” or “Hollow Lion” group. The weaver has not yet been identified.
Description
This coverlet is from what is known as the “Big Lion” or “Hollow Lion” group. The weaver has not yet been identified. There have been at least eighteen of these coverlets identified and collectors and scholars have attributed these coverlets to Auburn State Prison or to weaver, Harry Tyler, who also sometimes used a lion in his cornerblocks. There is; however, no evidence to corroborate these prior attributions. The centerfield design features stylized floral carpet medallions. There are borders on three sides. The side borders depict flowering trees, and the bottom border also features a different design of tall, leafed trees. The cornerblocks are unsigned and undated and contain a vertically oriented lion. This lion is depicted in outline form rather than solid as depicted in Tyler’s coverlets. This coverlet measures 84 inches by 78 inches and was constructed from two panels sewn together with a center seam. The unidentified weaver would have been from the Finger Lakes region of New York state and the coverlet was likely woven between the years 1835 and 1845.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1829
1830s?
date made
1835-1845
maker ? not sure
Tyler, Harry
maker
Tyler, Harry
unknown
ID Number
TE.T18629
catalog number
T18629.000
accession number
1978.2413

Abram Allen; coverlet; Figured and Fancy, double-cloth; 1838; Ohio

Abram Allen (b. 1796) wove this blue and white, Figured and Fancy, double-cloth in Union Township, Clinton County, Ohio in 1838.
Description
Abram Allen (b. 1796) wove this blue and white, Figured and Fancy, double-cloth in Union Township, Clinton County, Ohio in 1838. The centerfield design is based on earlier geometric double-weave coverlets, and this pattern is traditionally known as “Whig Rose.” The three-sided border depicts pairs of confronted birds perched on fruit tree limbs which are emerging from sine lines. The lower corners of the coverlet contain the woven inscription, “1838 Ohio.” Abraham Allen was born May 3, 1796, in Ireland. He married Kate Cata Howlan (1800-1866) on June 25, 1818. Allen died June 7, 1867, in Clinton County, Ohio. The 1850 Federal Census recorded Allen’s occupation as wagonmaker, and in 1860 he was recorded as a farmer. It is possible that Allen only wove in his earlier professional life. His extant coverlets range in date from 1833-1844. It is also possible that Allen is among the growing group of coverlet weavers who were not weavers at all, but rather immigrant entrepreneurs investing capital earned through other means into small regional and local industry. This coverlet features no center seam, suggesting it was woven on a broadloom, not the equipment used by small-time weavers. The coverlet measures 84 inches by 74 inches.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1838
ID Number
1980.0089.01
accession number
1980.0089
catalog number
1980.0089.01

Summer-and-Winter coverlet; c. 1800-1830; likely Pennsylvania

This Summer-and-Winter weave coverlet of gold & tan has 1 1/4 inch gold knotted fringe on three sides with a rolled hem along the top edge. Woven in two sections, the center seam is hand sewn. Each panel is 40 1/4 inches wide.
Description
This Summer-and-Winter weave coverlet of gold & tan has 1 1/4 inch gold knotted fringe on three sides with a rolled hem along the top edge. Woven in two sections, the center seam is hand sewn. Each panel is 40 1/4 inches wide. The warp and weft are both 2-ply, S-twist, Z-spun cotton, and the pattern weft is 2-ply, S-twist, Z-spun wool. The pattern is a geometric pattern similar to the German I-Block pattern found on page 123 of Marguerite P. Davison’s A Handweaver’s Pattern Book (1944). These geometric designs are often associated with Pennsylvania German weavers; however, the nature of four-harness looms and the designs that can be woven on them make these geometric patterns hard to attribute to one European weaving tradition. This particular pattern seems to be blend blockier, German geometric designs with British patterns like the Irish Chain.
Summer-and-Winter weave is often written about as the quintessentially American weave structure. Scholars like Dorothy Burnham have claimed it is a North American invention, while Craft Revival weavers and scholars like Marguerite R. Davis have claimed it was brought to North America by the Finnish and Swedish settlers of what is today Delaware where it spread to the German population of Pennsylvania. Whatever the case, the structure is noted for short weft floats (no more than two warp yarns) and its reversibility. The name of the structure is apocryphal as well. People have claimed that there is a warmer and cooler side that is appropriate for changing seasons; however, the structure is balanced on both sides and the thickness and weight of the coverlet the same throughout. The choice of name and its origin remain an American weaving mystery to this day.
date made
1800-1830
ID Number
1998.0360.176
accession number
1998.0360

Figured and Fancy coverlet; tied-Beiderwand; 1844; prob. Pennsylvania

This Figured and Fancy, tied-Beiderwand coverlet has horizontal stripes of pink [rose], white, gold, light and dark brown and fringe on three sides, It is possible that some of the colors visible today have faded due to age, light, and the dyes used.
Description
This Figured and Fancy, tied-Beiderwand coverlet has horizontal stripes of pink [rose], white, gold, light and dark brown and fringe on three sides, It is possible that some of the colors visible today have faded due to age, light, and the dyes used. The fringe along the sides was created by the wool weft yarns and has mostly worn away over time. The centerfield pattern features the “Double Lily” and starburst carpet medallions. The border found on three sides of the coverlet feature addorsed Distelfinken (thistle finches) and rosebushes and Hom (tree of life). The two cornerblock show the name, Franz Rether, and the date 1844. There is no record of a weaver by that name, and Rether was likely the customer. More research is needed to determine just who Franz Rether was. Due to the pattern and color arrangement of this coverlet, it was likely made in Pennsylvania. Genealogical research revealed that Pennsylvania in the 1840s was full of families named Rether, Ritter, and Reiter, all of which have similar pronunciations. Adams County, Pennsylvania had a large number of Rether families living there in the 1840s, and it is possible that this is where the coverlet was woven.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1830
1844
ID Number
TE.T13546
catalog number
T13546.000
accession number
244500

"Snowballs and Pine Tree" Geometric double-cloth coverlet; 1800-1830

This blue and white cotton and wool coverlet features a variation of the Snowball pattern in the center, and a variation of the Pine Tree pattern along its borders. It is double-woven and believed to have been made in New York State in the first half of the 19th century.
Description
This blue and white cotton and wool coverlet features a variation of the Snowball pattern in the center, and a variation of the Pine Tree pattern along its borders. It is double-woven and believed to have been made in New York State in the first half of the 19th century. It was passed down through the family of the original owner to the donor, before being given to the Museum. The name of the weaver is unknown. Its condition is testimony to many years of use. Coverlets are damaged by sunlight, insects, and abrasion brought on by everyday use. They are frequently worn away at the top edge, by the owner pulling them up at night to stay warm.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1800-1830
early 19th century
1827
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T9571
catalog number
T09571.000
accession number
172485

Richard Walker's Patent Model of a Knitting Machine

date made
ca 1839
patent date
1839-12-05
inventor
Walker, Richard
ID Number
TE.T11410.013
accession number
89797
patent number
1,421
catalog number
T11410.013

"Star and Table;" overshot coverlet; multi-harness; c. 1800-1830; likely Pennsylvania

This is a red, white, and blue, cotton and wool, multi-harness, overshot coverlet woven in a complex “Star and Table” pattern with long warp self-fringe and shorter weft self-fringe. There is a center seam, indicating hand-loom weaving.
Description
This is a red, white, and blue, cotton and wool, multi-harness, overshot coverlet woven in a complex “Star and Table” pattern with long warp self-fringe and shorter weft self-fringe. There is a center seam, indicating hand-loom weaving. The coverlet measures 79 inches by 71.5 inches. There is little information about the provenance of this coverlet; however, most of the complex overshot star and diamond coverlets were created in the counties just west of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. The weavers of these coverlets were master weavers and used looms with upward of twenty-six shafts, which allowed them to pack in minute detail into a rather small space. The weaver’s use of red, and blue wool yarns contrasting against the white, cotton ground-cloth create a stunning visual.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
19th century
c. 1800-1830
ID Number
TE.T18667
catalog number
T18667.000
accession number
144093

Martha Mildred Mills Vaughn; "Sixteen Patch," coverlet; overshot; c. 1830-1838; Georgia

According to family lore, Martha Mildred Mills Vaughn (b. 1822) wove this "Sixteen Patch" pattern, overshot coverlet from cotton and indigo-dyed wool before her marriage to husband, William Vaughn in Atlanta in 1838.
Description
According to family lore, Martha Mildred Mills Vaughn (b. 1822) wove this "Sixteen Patch" pattern, overshot coverlet from cotton and indigo-dyed wool before her marriage to husband, William Vaughn in Atlanta in 1838. Martha Vaughn was the grandmother of the donor and lived in Macon, Georgia. The pattern is developed in six inch squares composed of forty-nine blocks of uniform size, and bordered with a one and a half inch band. The coverlet is woven in three sections. The donor remembered her grandmother telling her that she spun the yarn used in the coverlet, and "made" it. According to donor she made the coverlet before she married, leading to the date attribution of 1830-1838. This would make Martha between the ages of eight and sixteen. There is no federal census record which matches her information suggesting that Martha may have died prior to the 1850 Federal Census when other members of the household were first recorded by name. More research is needed to determine which William Vaughn could have been Martha’s husband in order to learn more about the family.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
ca. 1830
date made
ca. 1830 ?
c. 1830-1838
maker
Vaughn, Martha Mildred Mills
ID Number
TE.T8291
catalog number
?008291.000
T08291.000
accession number
151208

Jacob Impson; Figured and Fancy coverlet; double-cloth; 1834; New York

Jacob Impson wove this Figured and Fancy, blue and white double-cloth coverlet for Louis Burnham in 1834. The coverlet was woven from two sets of cotton and wool warp and weft and has no fringe. The centerfield pattern features “Double Lily” medallions offset by starbursts.
Description
Jacob Impson wove this Figured and Fancy, blue and white double-cloth coverlet for Louis Burnham in 1834. The coverlet was woven from two sets of cotton and wool warp and weft and has no fringe. The centerfield pattern features “Double Lily” medallions offset by starbursts. The borders along three sides appear to depict grape vines or possibly even a hops plant, used in brewing beer. The words "Cortland Village" are woven along border, as is the word “Fancy.” The names Lois Burnham and Jacob Impson and the date 1834 are woven into the lower corner blocks.
Jacob Impson (1802-1869) wove coverlets from at least 1832-1845 in Ludlowville and Cortland Village, Cortland County, New York. Impson advertised in the 1824 Ithaca Journal that he was operating a weaving workshop out of the home of John Goodrich. At some point before 1834, Impson relocated to the county seat, Cortland Village where he wove this coverlet for Lois Burnham (1792-1849). More research is needed to learn more about Lois’ life, but we do know from the NY Mortality Census that she was born in Connecticut, married, and fifty-four years old when she died of dysentery in Cortland County.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1834
owner
Burnham, Lois
weaver
Impson, Jacob
ID Number
TE.T8113
catalog number
T08113.000
accession number
144578

Auburn State Prison jacquard-woven double-cloth coverlet; 1838; New York

Imprisoned weavers at Auburn State Prison loom house wove this Jacquard, double-cloth coverlet with an ornate carpet medallion centerfield and floral borders in Auburn, Cayuga County, New York in 1838.
Description
Imprisoned weavers at Auburn State Prison loom house wove this Jacquard, double-cloth coverlet with an ornate carpet medallion centerfield and floral borders in Auburn, Cayuga County, New York in 1838. The coverlet also features the dated floral cornerblocks associated with the prison’s other attributed coverlets. Being double-cloth, the coverlet is composed of two sets of warp and weft. The red and blue wool yarns are S-spun singles and the natural cotton yarns are 2-ply, S-twist, Z-spun. The coverlet measures eighty-eight by sixty-four inches and features a center seam.
Not much work has been done on prison weaving in the 19th century. Ralph S. Herre wrote a dissertation while at Penn State University entitled, "The History of Auburn Prison from the Beginning to about 1867." He confirmed that the prison did have a carpet weaving shop, sold to local customers, and even attempted to cultivate and manufacture silks. In American Coverlets and Their Weavers (2002), Clarita Anderson included an entry for a coverlet which had a family history of being from Auburn State Prison and dated 1835. Anderson pointed out that of the four confirmed Auburn State coverlets she had encountered most are Biederwand structure, not double weave. She attributed the coverlets to New York weaver, James Van Ness (1811-1872).
The two Auburn State Prison coverlets in the NMAH collection have a similar corner block organization but different motifs, suggesting the possibility that the individual(s) designing the point papers and cutting the cards for these coverlets were the same person, maybe even Van Ness. More research is needed to confirm Anderson's attribution. It could be, and likely was the case, that the prisoners were trained in coverlet and ingrain carpet weaving by a master weaver, perhaps even Van Ness. At the very least, ornate Fancy weave jacquard card sets were purchased by the prison with the express purpose of producing fancy weave coverlets for general consumption. Prisoners at Auburn State were organized in what became known as the Auburn- or Congregate-Style. Prisoners spent most of their time in isolation in their cells. They were released for work hours, six days a week. They walked silently to work, worked in silence, and lived in silence. This coverlet is a fascinating material glimpse into the culture and economics of prisons in the 19th century.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1838
ID Number
TE.T15044
catalog number
T15044.000
accession number
287586

lace

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca. 1830
ID Number
TE.T13490A
catalog number
T13490.00A
accession number
254382
254382

Figured and Fancy; tied-Beiderwand; 1836; prob. Pennsylvania

An unidentified weaver wove this Figured and Fancy, red, white, and blue, tied-Beiderwand coverlet in 1836. The centerfield design is made up of “Double Iris” medallions with floral and scrollwork designs between.
Description
An unidentified weaver wove this Figured and Fancy, red, white, and blue, tied-Beiderwand coverlet in 1836. The centerfield design is made up of “Double Iris” medallions with floral and scrollwork designs between. The three borders each depict the addorsed Distelfinken (thistle finches) flanked by fruit trees and the Germanic tree of life motif (Hom). There is self-fringe on three sides. The two lower corner blocks read, "Joseph/Devler/ E R/ A LE/1836." The coverlet measures 102 inches by 86 inches and has a center seam indicating that it was woven on a hand loom. More research is needed to determine who Joseph Devler was and where he may have lived. The style and design of the coverlet indicate that it was likely woven in Pennsylvania or by a German-American weaver. There is no indication that Devler was a weaver, and he was likely the customer. The key to understanding this coverlet is deciphering the “E R A LE” initials in the corner blocks. These are likely the weaver’s initials and an abbreviated location. More research is needed to confirm this.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1836
maker
Devler, Joseph
ID Number
TE.T14000
catalog number
T14000.000
accession number
269209

Lavinia Rogers (attrib) Overshot Coverlet; Tennessee; 1833

This overshot coverlet is said to have been made by Lavina Rogers of Horse Creek, Tennessee, in 1833. It is made of cotton and wool, and is woven in what some call the "Braddocks Defeat" pattern.
Description
This overshot coverlet is said to have been made by Lavina Rogers of Horse Creek, Tennessee, in 1833. It is made of cotton and wool, and is woven in what some call the "Braddocks Defeat" pattern. The coverlet appears to have been repaired, as the center seam and the hems are machine sewn with cotton sewing thread. There were very few female hand- weavers in 1833. In most cases women spun the yarn used in their coverlets, and commissioned a professional weaver to actually weave the coverlet.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1830-1840
1833
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T14956
catalog number
T014956
accession number
124301

Samuel Butterfield; coverlet; Figured and Fancy, double cloth; 1834; New York

Samuel Butterfield (b. 1792) wove this blue and white, Figured and Fancy, double cloth coverlet in Oneida County, New York for A. White in 1834. The centerfield design features large “Double Tulip” carpet medallions common to many New York coverlet designs.
Description
Samuel Butterfield (b. 1792) wove this blue and white, Figured and Fancy, double cloth coverlet in Oneida County, New York for A. White in 1834. The centerfield design features large “Double Tulip” carpet medallions common to many New York coverlet designs. The four-sided border depicts Great Seal Eagles with floral embellishments. The cornerblocks depict Gen. George Washington on horseback, the date, 1834, and a woven inscription naming Washington. Below this on one end the customer’s name, A. White appears and the date again. At the other end, Samuel Butterfield is listed as the weaver or owner of the manufactory along with the location of his establishment, North Hartfors, Oneida County, New York. The coverlet measures 86 inches by 68.5 inches and was constructed from two panels sewn together with a center seam. This coverlet is in like-new condition. It was almost certainly never used. Butterfield was an English immigrant who was in a partnership with fellow weaver, James Cunningham until at least 1832. The two weavers both used this exact pattern, the only difference being the weaver’s name. Butterfield along with Archibald Davidson both claim to be the first British weaver to introduce ingrain carpeting to New York in the early nineteenth century. There is some evidence that Cunningham and Butterfield were not only weavers, but also early American industrialists creating small, regional factories to produce both carpeting and coverlets. Many British immigrants were recruited by emerging coastal textile mills early in the nineteenth century, and that is almost certainly how Butterfield would have initially found his way to America. His entrepreneurial spirit is further reflected in the occupational choices of his two sons. William owned a successful lumber business in Oneida County, and his other son, Thomas was a master tanner.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1834
maker
Butterfield, Samuel
owner
White, A.
ID Number
TE.T4263
catalog number
T4263
T.4263
accession number
67010

Figured and Fancy coverlet; double-cloth; 1839; New York

This blue and white, Figured and Fancy, double cloth coverlet features a “Double Rose” and “Double Thistle” carpet medallion centerfield. There are borders along three sides which feature alternating “Double Rose” and “Double Leaf” medallions.
Description
This blue and white, Figured and Fancy, double cloth coverlet features a “Double Rose” and “Double Thistle” carpet medallion centerfield. There are borders along three sides which feature alternating “Double Rose” and “Double Leaf” medallions. “1839/A P” appears in the two lower cornerblocks, quartered and reflected. Being double cloth, this coverlet was woven with two sets of cotton and wool warp and weft. The cotton yarns are all 3-ply, S-twist, Z-spun, and the wool yarns are 2-ply, S-twist, Z-spun. The coverlet is constructed of two panels that were initially woven as one length, cut, and seamed up the center. The coverlet measures 86 inches by 80 inches. According to the donor, this coverlet was woven by hand by his wife’s grandmother near the Syracuse, New York area. The donor’s wife’s father was Charles H. Peck. There are multiple people names Charles Peck from the Onondaga County area in the late 19th century and more research is needed to definitively determine who A.P. might have been. While family legend attests that a grandmother wove the coverlet, it is much more likely that this coverlet was woven by a male professional weaver for an ancestor with the initials A.P. The loom and patterning device used to weave this coverlet would have been cost and space prohibitive for anyone but the professional carpet and coverlet weaver. The design of the coverlet would indicate that the coverlet was woven anytime between the years 1835 and 1845, suggesting that the donor’s wife’s grandmother may have inherited the coverlet from an older ancestor.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1839
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T17176
catalog number
T17176
accession number
313384

Hannah Leathers Wilson; Figured and Fancy weft loop coverlet; 1833; New Hampshire

Hannah Leathers Wilson (1787-1869) of Farmington, New Hampshire wove this Figured and Fancy, weft loop woven, Bolton- or Boutoneé-style coverlet in 1833 for Caroline Sawyer.
Description
Hannah Leathers Wilson (1787-1869) of Farmington, New Hampshire wove this Figured and Fancy, weft loop woven, Bolton- or Boutoneé-style coverlet in 1833 for Caroline Sawyer. The coverlet was woven as one long length of plain weave ground, divided into thirds, and joined together to create the finished textile. After every two shots of the white ground weft, Wilson would throw a shot of the patterning weft made from much thicker wool yarn which was dyed with indigo and using a hook would pull up and twist loops, locking them into place to create the tufted pattern. A large central octagonal medallion containing a star, pine trees, and floral motifs is surrounded by five concentric borders on three sides and three along the top edge. White cotton and dark blue wool, stylized floral and leaf motifs around star in center. Side selvage edges are turned under and tacked at corners. The bottom edge is turned under and stitched to an edge bound with tape. The tape appears to be original. The woven inscription, "Caroline Sawyer no 52 1833" appears along the upper edge of the coverlet. Caroline Sawyer was born December 20, 1809 to Enoch (1776-1857) and Eleanor Horn (1774-1870) Sawyer in Alton, New Hampshire. Sawyer married Ira Mooney and died April 23, 1890. Hannah Wilson was born Hannah Leathers 1787 in Barrington, New Hampshire. In 1829 she changed her last name to Wilson because some of her relatives were of "ill repute." There is some suggestion that the Leathers family and people of that surname may have been Roma or Travelers and viewed as thieves or ne’er-do-wells. She died May 29, 1869 in Farmington, New Hampshire. She numbered all her coverlets and the highest known number is 184. Thanks to Donna-Belle Garvin from the New Hampshire Historical Society for her research into finding the identity of this coverlet maker.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1833
maker
Wilson, Hannah
ID Number
1981.0274.09
accession number
1981.0274
catalog number
1981.0274.09

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