| National Museum of American History

This red, white, and blue, multi-harness coverlet features what has come to be known as the "star and diamond" pattern. This particular pattern was woven on a 14-shaft loom. Some of the variations of this star-work required eighteen shafts.

Description: This red, white, and blue, multi-harness coverlet features what has come to be known as the "star and diamond" pattern. This particular pattern was woven on a 14-shaft loom. Some of the variations of this star-work required eighteen shafts. The coverlet was loaned to the museum in the 1930s and later donated in the 1970s. Mrs. John H. Murray purchased the coverlet in Frederick, MD with green stamps, and there may be a Maryland connection with production of this coverlet; however, known weaver’s pattern books tend to all be focused on Southeastern Pennsylvania. Famous pattern books created by weavers like Jacob Angstadt, John Landes, and NMAH’s own pattern book by Peter Stauffer all contain variations of these multi-harness patterns. The coverlet was woven in two pieces and the pattern does not quite match up at the center seam. Whether this is due to shrinkage from improper washing or from uneven beating on the loom remains to be determined. There are remnants of a self-fringe along the sides that has worn away and both the top and bottom edge of the coverlet are hemmed with a simple rolled hem. The coverlet is composed of what appears to be a 3-ply cotton warp and a 2-ply or single of natural cotton for the weft.
Location: Currently not on view

delete: 19th century
date made: 1790-1840

ID Number: TE.T18666
catalog number: T18666.000
accession number: 144093

L. Hesse wove this Figured and Fancy, red, white and green, tied-Beiderwand coverlet in 1840.

Description: L. Hesse wove this Figured and Fancy, red, white and green, tied-Beiderwand coverlet in 1840. There is no location or customer indicated in the cornerblock, but we know from other extant coverlets that Hesse and his brothers, both named Frederick were active in Somerset Township, Perry County and Hocking Counties in Ohio. The centerfield pattern features the common “Double Rose and Starburst” motif which is accented by smaller geometric crosses and fylfots (swastikas). There is a double border featuring addorsed “Eagles and Fruit Tree” and eight-pointed stars along the sides and bottom of the coverlet. There is self-fringe along the sides. The coverlet was woven on a hand loom with a patterning device attachment (either barrel loom or Jacquard mechanism) made in two pieces seamed together up the center. The Hesse brothers were active in Somerset, Hocking, and Perry Counties, Ohio. Frederick A. (b. 1801), Frederick E. (b. 1827), and L. Hesse (b. 1809) were Saxon immigrants from what was then the Kingdom of Prussia. They settled in Ohio, each opening their own weaving business. The brothers have extant coverlets dating from the years, 1838-1862 collectively. This coverlet belonged to the great-grandmother of the donor. Although we do not know her name, the accession file tells us she was born around 1830 and from Ohio, helping to further situate this coverlet in the proper context.
Location: Currently not on view

date made: 1840

weaver: Hesse, L.

ID Number: TE.T14540
catalog number: T14540.000
accession number: 277122

Archibald Davidson wove this blue and white, Figured and Fancy, double cloth coverlet for Sarepta C. White in Ithaca, New York in 1835. The centerfield design is made up of a “Double Rose” carpet medallion pattern. The coverlet has two borders along three sides.

Description: Archibald Davidson wove this blue and white, Figured and Fancy, double cloth coverlet for Sarepta C. White in Ithaca, New York in 1835. The centerfield design is made up of a “Double Rose” carpet medallion pattern. The coverlet has two borders along three sides. The one at the bottom of the coverlet features American eagles, with shields, and stars, and horses. The borders that run along the other two edges, feature meandering floral vines and stars. The two lower corners have the following inscription woven into them: Sarepta C. White, Liberty & Independence, Ithaca 1835 A Davidson Fancy Weaver." The blue yarns are wool and the white yarns are cotton. The coverlet has two hemmed edges, and two edges that appear to have been cut, and are now unraveling. Archibald Davidson was born in Scotland in 1771, where he was trained as a weaver. He married Jane McPhail December 10, 1795 in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, and they had five sons one born in Pennsylvania and the other four in New Jersey. They lived in both Tompkins and Warsaw Counties, New York. He died January 5, 1854. In 1832 Archibald Davidson advertised himself in the Ithaca Journal and Daily Advertiser as a “fancy weaver” and went on to inform the public that he had purchased a “patent loom.” In 1849, he advertised for an apprentice, stating that: “None need apply unless well recommended.”Blue and white medallion with roses, eagles nd flowers
Location: Currently not on view

Date made: 1846
date made: 1835

maker: Davidson, Archibald

ID Number: TE.E388874
catalog number: E388874
accession number: 182022

This double-woven geometric coverlet features a diamond centerfield and border with elaborate fringe. Woven in Andalusia, Spain in the early decades of the 19th century with pink and red yarns, this coverlet is composed of two sections with center seam.

Description: This double-woven geometric coverlet features a diamond centerfield and border with elaborate fringe. Woven in Andalusia, Spain in the early decades of the 19th century with pink and red yarns, this coverlet is composed of two sections with center seam. The long, elaborate fringe is attached to the coverlet body via a woven tape which gives the bottom corners a rounded appearance. The centerfield and deep border patterns are geometric and diamond in nature and evocative of Moorish-influenced, Southern Spanish tastes.; The yarns are all either S-spun wool singles in pink and red or three-ply, S-twist, Z-spun unbleached cotton. Curator emerita, Rita Androsko acquired this piece from French textile curator, Jean Pilisi in the 1960s when the National Museum of American History was the Museum of Art and Industry. This Spanish, Jacquard-woven coverlet was collected as a rare example of international coverlet weaving and as a piece for comparative study with the growing American coverlet collection.
Location: Currently not on view

date made: 1804-1840; 1810-1830

ID Number: TE.T13986
catalog number: T13986.000
accession number: 269348

Daniel Goodman (b. 1800) wove this red, blue, and green, tied-Beiderwand coverlet for J. and M. Keen in Nescopeck, Luzerne County, Pennsylvania in 1842. The centerfield features a typical carpet medallion pattern composed of eight-point stars and stylized starburst motifs.

Description: Daniel Goodman (b. 1800) wove this red, blue, and green, tied-Beiderwand coverlet for J. and M. Keen in Nescopeck, Luzerne County, Pennsylvania in 1842. The centerfield features a typical carpet medallion pattern composed of eight-point stars and stylized starburst motifs. The three borders depict the addorsed, German Distelfinken (thistle finches) flanked by rose bushes and Hom (Germanic tree of life). The cornerblocks read, “MADE.BY./DANIEL/GOODMAN/NESCOPECK/LUZERNECO/FOR/J.ANDM./KEEN/PENN.1842.” The donor's mother's maiden name was Keen. It is possible that the coverlet was made for Jacob Keen (1798-1862) and his wife Magdalena (1796-1886). This coverlet has no center seam, indicating that Goodman was using a broad loom to weave his coverlets and was possibly involved in early factory production in Luzerne County.; Daniel Goodman was from family of Pennsylvania coverlet weavers. His father, Peter (b. 1783) was also a weaver as was Daniel’s son, John S. Goodman (b. 1820). Daniel Goodman’s extant coverlets date from 1841-1844. Daniel had presumably been weaving twenty years prior, but may not have been able to invest in new pattern weaving technology until the 1840s. Rather than being able to order equipment, patented loom technology was sold via licensing and franchise agreements with the patent holder(s).

date made: 1842

maker: Goodman, Daniel

ID Number: TE.T16364
accession number: 301346

According to the donor, John Riegel commissioned this coverlet in 1840, for his daughter, Eliza Riegel when she married Charles B. Daniel, one of the founders of Bethlehem Iron Co., which later became Bethlehem Steel.

Description: According to the donor, John Riegel commissioned this coverlet in 1840, for his daughter, Eliza Riegel when she married Charles B. Daniel, one of the founders of Bethlehem Iron Co., which later became Bethlehem Steel. The coverlet is made of cotton and wool, and is Jacquard double-woven. It features a design of lilies, stars, birds,; and trees, and is striped with red, white, and dark and light blue rows. The name "John Riegel" and the date "1840," appear in each of the lower corners.
Location: Currently not on view

date made: 1840

maker: unknown

ID Number: TE.T17895
catalog number: T17895.000
accession number: 319093

This coverlet was woven in 1841 by John Kaufman (Coffman). It belonged to Elizabeth Fretz, great-aunt of the donor. It features stars, eagles, and trees in its border. The center design consists of flowers and sunbursts.

Description: This coverlet was woven in 1841 by John Kaufman (Coffman). It belonged to Elizabeth Fretz, great-aunt of the donor. It features stars, eagles, and trees in its border. The center design consists of flowers and sunbursts. The coverlet is cotton and wool, and was woven in two sections that were sewn together with linen thread. According to the donor, the wool in the coverlet came from sheep grown on the family farm. The wool was spun into yarn there as well. John Kaufman (1812—1863) was born in Lehigh County, Pennsylvania. It appears his weaving business was in Bucks County, Pennsylvania.
Location: Currently not on view

date made: 1841

user: Fretz, Elizabeth
maker: Kaufman, John

ID Number: TE.T12923
catalog number: T12923.000
accession number: 247373

"Braddock's defeat" pattern variation; coverlet; overshot weave; c. 1840; possibly New York or New Jersey.

Description: "Braddock's defeat" pattern variation; coverlet; overshot weave; c. 1840; possibly New York or New Jersey. Overshot' multi-harness coverlet in natural, tight-spun, 2-ply, s-twist, z-spun cotton warp and weft and loosely spun, 2-ply, s-twist, z-spun indigo-dyed blue and madder-dyed rust wool supplementary weft floats. The ground fabric is plain weave. The pattern consists of borders and a series of blocks and tables in various configurations occurring in a regular repetitive fashion, and this pattern is known as "Braddock's defeat". The coverlet was woven in one long piece, cut,, folded back on itself, and stitched up the middle. Excellent attention has been paid to make sure the patterns of both widths match perfectly when joined at the center seam. Matched seams are a trademark of Northern overshot coverlets. A machine woven binding has been attached by machine on all four sides.The pattern repeat is 13", and the thread count is 32 ends x 13 picks/inch. The center seam appears to be original with the same cotton warp/weft yarns being used to seam the two halves together. There has been some repair to the center of the seam in black thread, and the zig-zag stictch and presence of two distinct threads indicates this repair was done with a sewing machine. There are also some small holes which have been repaired with a pink, madder-dyed, homespun, single-ply yarn.; Mrs. Carolyn Kait's maternal grandfather, John S. Mickle, a farmer who settled in Point Pleasant, NJ, listed a coverlet, likely this one, in his will. It was likely part of the wedding trusseau from his parent's marriage in 1843. Mr. Mickle's father John J, Mickel was born in New York in 1822 and served as a private in the Civil War with a New York unit only later moving to New Jersey with his wife and family. The coverlet is almost certainly made in New York state, and more research is needed to determine a county and possible weaver.
Location: Currently not on view

Date made: ca. 1840
date made: ca. 1843

maker: unknown

ID Number: 1986.0162.01
catalog number: 1986.0162.01
accession number: 1986.0162

A treadling error was made in one section of this double-woven coverlet (by accident, we assume) and intentionally repeated in the other section so they would match. This coverlet is made of cotton and wool, and is woven in a geometric design of squares and circles.

Description: A treadling error was made in one section of this double-woven coverlet (by accident, we assume) and intentionally repeated in the other section so they would match. This coverlet is made of cotton and wool, and is woven in a geometric design of squares and circles. There is a cut self fringe on the lower edge, and an uncut fringe on each side. The coverlet was woven in two pieces that were sewn together. The name of the weaver is unknown.
Location: Currently not on view

date made: 1846; ca 1846; 1825-1850

maker: unknown

ID Number: TE.T10098
catalog number: T10098.000
accession number: 060464

An unidentified weaver wove this blue and white, double-cloth coverlet with self-fringe along the side edges. The centerfield pattern features the “Double Rose” motif with tiles of eight-pointed stars and “Double Starburst” motifs.

Description: An unidentified weaver wove this blue and white, double-cloth coverlet with self-fringe along the side edges. The centerfield pattern features the “Double Rose” motif with tiles of eight-pointed stars and “Double Starburst” motifs. The three borders all depict adorssed Distelfinken (thistle finches) with the Germanic tree of life (Hom) motif. The cornerblock design features the weaver’s or factory’s trademark design, which in this case is rose in profile or possibly a leaf. The owner of this trademark has yet to be identified. The coverlet measures 82 inches by 70 inches and was constructed of two panels that were woven in one length. There upper edge of the coverlet features considerable loss conducive with heavy use over many generations.
Location: Currently not on view

Date made: 19th century
date made: c. 1840

ID Number: TE.T4262
catalog number: T04262.000
accession number: 066143

This blue and white, double-cloth coverlet has no fringe. The centerfield pattern consists of large stylized floral medallions alternating with smaller bird and flower motifs.

Description: This blue and white, double-cloth coverlet has no fringe. The centerfield pattern consists of large stylized floral medallions alternating with smaller bird and flower motifs. Similar patterns have been named “Bird of Paradise” and are generally associated with the Finger Lakes region of New York. The four-sided border is composed of abstract geometric and leaf figures. The cornerblocks depict a “Double Rose” motif. This design is likely the logo or trademark of an unidentified coverlet weaver in that region. The donor, Dr. Charles D. Walcott was the Fourth Secretary of the Smithsonian. This coverlet had passed down through his family in Washington County, New York, and it is almost certainly from the area. There is a center seam joining the two panels of the coverlet together. The coverlet is in overall excellent condition and likely dates from the 1840s.
Location: Currently not on view

Date made: 19th century
date made: c. 1840

maker: unknown

ID Number: TE.T4559
catalog number: T04559.000
accession number: 069191

This Jacquard, tied-Beiderwand coverlet features a “Double Tulip and Carnation” carpet medallion and starburst centerfield. The borders along the sides and bottom all feature the "Rose Tree and Plume" pattern, and inscribed cornerblocks identifying the weaver as D.

Description: This Jacquard, tied-Beiderwand coverlet features a “Double Tulip and Carnation” carpet medallion and starburst centerfield. The borders along the sides and bottom all feature the "Rose Tree and Plume" pattern, and inscribed cornerblocks identifying the weaver as D. Cosley, the place woven as Fayetteville, Pennsylvania, and the date, 1845. The red, white, blue & green wool and cotton yarns interlace forming an integrated weave structure known as tied-Biederwand and identifiable because of the ribbed appearance of the finished textile. The coverlet has self-fringe on three sides and measure eighty-four by eighty inches. The lack of a center seam indicates that this coverlet was woven on a broadloom with a fly shuttle and possibly even a power loom.; Dennis Cosley (1816-1904) was born in Berkeley County, Virginia (now West Virginia), and he was trained as a weaver along with his brother, George (1805-1884) in Franklin County, Pennsylvania. The brothers were operating a mill in Bridgeport, Pennsylvania in 1837. Dennis opened a mill in Fayetteville in 1844. It is that mill in which this coverlet was woven. That mill in Fayetteville burned two years later, and the Cosley brothers relocated to Xenia, Greene County, Ohio. In Xenia, tax documents show Dennis Cosley owning a coverlet and carpet factory that employed at least three men. Cosley left Xenia in 1864, moved to Miami County, Ohio and opened a weaving mill there. He retired to Troy, Ohio and operated a store until his death in 1904. Dennis' first wife was Margaret Ann Comer Cosley (1817-1852). She was born in Pennsylvania. His second wife was Catherine Landis (Landess) Cosley (1833-1917). Catherine was born in Xenia, Ohio. Catherine and Dennis were married 1858. This coverlet was owned by the Cosley family and donated by one of Dennis' children. This coverlet is an early example of his factory's work in Fayetteville, PA and important because it shows that signed coverlets can be representative of factory production, not just artisan craft.
Location: Currently not on view

Date made: 1845

weaver: Cosley, Dennis

ID Number: TE.T8431
catalog number: T08431.000
accession number: 157562

James Cunningham of North Hartford, Oneida County, New York wove this commemorative George Washington, Jacquard-woven, gold wool and cotton tablecloth in 1846.

Description: James Cunningham of North Hartford, Oneida County, New York wove this commemorative George Washington, Jacquard-woven, gold wool and cotton tablecloth in 1846. This tablecloth is a true damask where on one side the ground is a four-shaft “crowsfoot” weave structure and the pattern is woven in a weft-faced plain weave and vice versa on the opposite side. The pattern is interesting, because Cunningham is most often associated with coverlet weaving, particularly this pattern. He and his business partner, Samuel Butterfield exclusively wove this pattern, which features “Double Tulip” centerfields with Great Seal eagle borders. In each of the four corners, George Washington is depicted astride his horse. The date "1846" appears above Washington and below reads the woven inscription, “Washington/J. Cunningham/Weaver/N. Hartford/Oneida Co. N. York.” Under the Great Seal eagle borders can be found the inscription, “Under This We Prosper.” The coverlet was woven from white cotton and gold wool. The white cotton yarns are Z-spun singes and the gold wool weft is also a Z-spun single. The yarn count is 57 warp ends x 51-55 weft end per inch. The pattern is vertically and horizontally mirror images of one another, indicating how the weaver set up his patterning device, at this point, almost certainly a Jacquard mechanism. Coverlet weavers were not just producing ingrain carpeting and coverlets, but also attempting to branch out into other fancy goods for the household. This tablecloth was woven on a handloom, which is evidence from the very irregular selvedge edges found along the sides. This could also indicate that Cunningham was experimenting with tablecloths as a new product, hoping to expand his business. The cloth is one piece, there are no seams. There are two selvages and other edges are hemmed. James Cunningham (1797-1865) was born in Scotland and died in New Hartford, Oneida Co, New York. Cunningham’s extant coverlets date between the years 1837-1848. He and English-born weaver, Samuel Butterfield (b. 1792) partnered before 1835 and evidently shared patterns with one another as they both use this pattern in their coverlets. Cunningham was married three times and fathered eleven children. At least one son, Robert also trained as a weaver. This tablecloth is a rare example of coverlet design’s influence on other household textile production as well as evidence of the business practice of coverlet weavers in America.
Location: Currently not on view

date made: 1846

depicted (sitter): Washington, George
maker: Cunningham, John

ID Number: 1981.0274.04
accession number: 1981.0274
catalog number: 1981.0274.04

This sampler features a picture of two children, a dog, a parrot, and a butterfly in a garden with a floral border. A dog symbolizes fidelity and watchfulness, a parrot suggests talkativeness, and a butterfly symbolizes immortality.

Description: This sampler features a picture of two children, a dog, a parrot, and a butterfly in a garden with a floral border. A dog symbolizes fidelity and watchfulness, a parrot suggests talkativeness, and a butterfly symbolizes immortality. These are appropriate motifs to go with young children. Mary worked her sampler in Patterson, New Jersey. Patterson was home to many textiles mills in 1840 and that may have been the reason her family came to live there. Her pattern was probably a Berlin wool work pattern. In 1820 with the introduction of Berlin wools comes the name Berlin wool work patterns. These patterns were hand painted on graph paper. The sampler is stitched with wool and silk embroidery thread on a cotton canvas ground with a thread count of warp 24, weft 24/in. The stitches used are cross, crosslet.; Mary Louisa McCully was a cousin of Frank H. McCully, in whose memory the sampler was donated to the Smithsonian.
Location: Currently not on view

date made: 1840

maker: McCully, Mary Louisa

ID Number: TE.T08229
catalog number: T8229
accession number: 147229

New York weaver, James Van Ness, Jr. (1811-1872) or possibly the prisoners working at the loomhouse of Auburn State Prison in Cayuga County, New York wove this blue and white, double-cloth, Figured and Fancy coverlet.

Description: New York weaver, James Van Ness, Jr. (1811-1872) or possibly the prisoners working at the loomhouse of Auburn State Prison in Cayuga County, New York wove this blue and white, double-cloth, Figured and Fancy coverlet. The centerfield pattern is composed of horizontal rows of scalloped carpet medallions. Around those can be found the “Birds of Paradise” pattern. The side borders feature foliate and floral motifs within cartouches. The lower border continues this arrangement in a slightly different variation. The cornerblocks name the overall pattern, “Birds of Paradise” and feature a trademark similar to the ones used by Van Ness and Auburn State Prison’s loom house. There is fringe along the bottom border. The coverlet was construced of two panels seamed down the middle. Each section is 41 inches wide. The coverlet measures 85 inches by 82 inches. Emailine Rich Hammond, an ancestor of the donors, originally owned this coverlet circa 1845. Van Ness was the son of another professional weaver of the same name. Van Ness wove in Columbia and Wayne Counties, New York. He is often cited as possibly being one of the weavers hired to train the prisoners and set up the looms at Auburn State Prison, but more research is needed to confirm this. In 1862, Van Ness and his family moved to Michigan. Van Ness was tragically killed by a falling limb in Michigan while helping a neighbor fight a forest fire.
Location: Currently not on view

date made: 1845; c. 1835-1850; c. 1845

owner: Hammond, Emeline Rice
maker: unknown

ID Number: TE.T11789
catalog number: T11789.000
accession number: 225701

Scottish immigrant weaver, John McLaughlin (b. 1788) is almost certainly the weaver of this red and white, Figured and Fancy, double cloth coverlet.

Description: Scottish immigrant weaver, John McLaughlin (b. 1788) is almost certainly the weaver of this red and white, Figured and Fancy, double cloth coverlet. The centerfield design is made up of two variations of the “Double Rose” carpet medallion pattern and is smaller sunburst medallions complete the centerfield design. There are borders along three sides, each depicting rows of floral designs between sawtooth designs and atop diamond tracery. The cornerblock inscriptions read, “Pyna.Rose/Wove.In/Logan Co/Ohio.By/I.M./1848.” Pyna Rose refers to this particular pattern and I.M. are John McLaughlin’s initials, the I being traditionally interchangeable with the J. The 1850 Federal Census records McLauglin as a weaver outside of Bellefontaine in Jefferson Township, Logan County, Ohio with real estate valued at $2000. An 1851 newspaper advertisement in the Logan Gazette lists a man named Niven as either a business partner or retailer for McLaughlin’s “Flowered and Double Coverlets.” McLaughlin’s extant coverlets date from 1847-1853, but he appears to have stopped using the I.M. initials in 1849. The coverlet measures 87 inches by 75 inches and was constructed from two panels.
Location: Currently not on view

date made: 1848

maker: I. M.

ID Number: TE.T14955
catalog number: T14955
accession number: 285840

This coverlet panel represents one half of a completed Figured and Fancy, double-cloth coverlet. Members of the Craig family wove this coverlet in 1847 in Decatur County, Indiana.

Description: This coverlet panel represents one half of a completed Figured and Fancy, double-cloth coverlet. Members of the Craig family wove this coverlet in 1847 in Decatur County, Indiana. The centerfield features a lattice created by a combination of square, stylized floral rosettes, berries and lotus-like flowers, and Great Seal Eagle. The incorporation of the woven inscription, “LIBERTY” helps to tie the design together. In the lattice openings are alternating bands of “Double Lotus” and “Double Bellflower” patterns. Both of these patterns are variations of the more traditional “Double Rose” and “Lilies of France” patterns. The top and bottom borders feature the Craig family signature “Bellflower and Bluebell” border. The side border combines the “Peacock Feeding its Young” motif with oversized urns and domed buildings. The cornerblocks are the traditional Craig family trademark—the dated courthouse with cupola.; This panel measures 83x36 inches and would have been one of two. There is evidence of self-fringe along the top and bottom edges although this just as likely could be unravelling due to the rolled hems coming loose with time. The double-cloth structure requires two sets of warps and wefts. 2-ply, S-twist, Z-spun cotton yarns and 2-ply, S-twist, Z-spun wool yarns were used in alternation combination to create this coverlet.; The donor received this coverlet panel from her grandmother, Courtney McCoy Kanouse (1850-1934). The other panel went to a sister and is now likely in the collection of Hanover College, Indiana as they possess an identical panel, but more research is needed to confirm this. Courtney and her husband, John R. Kanouse (1843-1909) were, at the time of his death, among the wealthiest citizens in Decatur County, Indiana. John operated a general store in the villages of St. Omer and St. Paul and owned land in northern Adams Township. The Kanouse land neighbored the holdings of wealthy farmer and Kentucky native, Isaiah McCoy (1814-1909), Mary’s father. It is this close proximity that likely led to their marriage in 1871. The life dates and marriage date of Courtney and John are curious when compared to the 1847 date on the coverlet panel. Parents often ordered coverlets in groups for their children and is likely the case with this coverlet. Isaiah and his wife, Mary Short (1816-1891) were married in 1838. In the 1850 Federal Census the couple was listed as having five children—John, Nancy, Benjamin, Eliza, and Julia. Courtney, aged ten, and sister, Armonda, aged six, both appear for the first time in the 1860 Federal Census.; This leaves a few options open for the coverlet’s commission. The first possibility is that Isaiah and Mary McCoy commissioned a group of coverlets for their children in 1847, the oldest of whom, John would have been eight-years-old. A second possibility is that the coverlet was passed down through the Kanouse family and could possibly commemorate the marriage of John R, Kanouse’s parents, who due to variations in the surname spelling, have not yet been identified. However, we do know that John was born in Decatur County, Indiana, but more research is needed to follow this lead. Whatever the case, we are able to better understand the types of customer’s for whom a coverlet weaver would be working.

Date made: 1847

maker: Craig Family

ID Number: 1990.0293.01
catalog number: 1990.0293.01
accession number: 1990.0293

This Jacquard, red, white, blue and green, tied-Beiderwand coverlet features and “Double Flower” carpet medallion pattern made up of two different designs.

Description: This Jacquard, red, white, blue and green, tied-Beiderwand coverlet features and “Double Flower” carpet medallion pattern made up of two different designs. The two side borders feature stylized flower and foliate designs, and the lower border is made up of leaves and stylized floral tiles. The cornerblock also features a floral carpet tile design and is likely associated with an as-of-yet unidentified weaver. The donor received this coverlet from his mother, Elizabeth Fretz Darnell (b. 1870) of Dublin, Bucks County, Pennsylvania. The coverlet measures 81 inches by 89 inches and does not have a center seam, indicating that it was woven on a broad loom. Former curators at NMAH have dated the coverlet to approximately 1845. There is a two inch applied fringe along three sides.
Location: Currently not on view

Date made: late 19th Century
date made: c. 1845

ID Number: TE.T12922
accession number: 247373

This blue and white, Figured and Fancy, double-cloth coverlet is dated 1844 in the outmost border but is otherwise unsigned. There is a large central medallion composed of scrollwork and anthemion motifs.

Description: This blue and white, Figured and Fancy, double-cloth coverlet is dated 1844 in the outmost border but is otherwise unsigned. There is a large central medallion composed of scrollwork and anthemion motifs. Around this, the remaining centerfield is composed of thistles, bluebells, and other floral designs. There is a meandering clover-like floral design and sine-line outermost border where the date can be found woven into the design. This coverlet was made near Syracuse, New York for the mother of the donor’s grandfather who was married in 1840. There is no center seam, indicating that this coverlet was woven on a broad loom.
Location: Currently not on view

Date made: 1841
date made: 1844

ID Number: TE.T6713
catalog number: T06713.000
accession number: 111910

This Jacquard double-cloth coverlet features a tulip, carpet medallion centerfield with eagle, federal architecture, and masonic motif borders.

Description: This Jacquard double-cloth coverlet features a tulip, carpet medallion centerfield with eagle, federal architecture, and masonic motif borders. Inscribed in the coverlet’s corners and top and bottom edges are the name of the client, "Esther Jewil" and the phrase and date, "Agriculture & Manufactures are the Foundation of Our Independence. July 4, 1840." This coverlet was woven in Dutchess County, New York in 1840. Ester Jewell (1757-1844) was the recipient of this coverlet. It is interesting that the Jewell’s commissioned this coverlet just four years before her death. Esther’s husband, Isaac Jr., father-in-law, Isaac Sr., and brother-in-law were veterans of the American Revolution.; This particular design and inscription was woven numerous times, and there are dated coverlets of this pattern from 1824-1840. Likely because of its bold patriotic statement, this coverlet design appears in major museums across the country. NMAH has another red and white coverlet of the same design. This design was initially associated with Scots-Irish weaver, James Alexander, but the consensus has changed as Alexander had retired from weaving in 1828 and none of the client names in Alexander’s account book matched those found on extant “Agriculture and Manufacture” coverlets.; This group of coverlets was almost certainly woven by more than one weaver whose identities have not yet been found. The weavers were also almost certainly apprentices or journeymen working with Alexander before his retirement. The floral medallions harken back to Scottish and English double-woven carpet designs and are identical to those found on Alexander’s earlier coverlets. Even the Masonic and eagle borders featured on this coverlet are more refined versions of borders found on Alexander coverlets.; The National Museum of American History also possesses two more of these “Agriculture and Manufacture” coverlets (see T14962 and T18131). Perhaps, Alexander sold his weaving equipment and patterns to former apprentices who joined in partnership? There are two groups of these coverlets and over 125 of them known. One group was woven in two sections and joined with a center seam, the other group was woven on a broad loom and does not have the center seam. The Esther Jewell coverlet falls into the latter group. Broad looms required either two weavers or the use of a fly shuttle to get the weft yarn back and forth across the wider width of the fabric, otherwise the loom and fabric width was dictated by the weaver’s arm width. There is also so speculation as to whether these particular patterns were executed on a draw loom of with the help of a Jacquard mechanism. Alexander’s weaving career almost entirely predates the introduction of the Jacquard head into the United States, suggesting that these coverlets which are so much in his fashion were almost certainly also woven on a draw loom.; Being double-cloth, this coverlet has two sets of warps and wefts made of an Indigo wool 2-ply, S-twist, Z-spun warp and weft and a cotton 2-ply, S-Twist, Z-spun warp and weft. The warps and wefts change place throughout the weaving process, creating the contrasting designs and strengthening the structure and creating a heavier and warmer textile.
Location: Currently not on view

Date made: 1840

ID Number: TE.T16116
catalog number: T016116.000
accession number: 298210

Henry Keener wove this coverlet in 1843 in the town of Womelsdorf, Pennsylvania. It is Jacquard single-woven, and made of cotton and wool yarns.

Description: Henry Keener wove this coverlet in 1843 in the town of Womelsdorf, Pennsylvania. It is Jacquard single-woven, and made of cotton and wool yarns. The center of the coverlet features a large medallion design rimmed by tulip-like flowers, and framed by large leaves and small tulip-like forms. Scroll-like forms fill the space between the large motifs. The border consists of two parts. The inner band consists of leaves and rosettes, and the outer one combines tulip flowers with scalloped swags and dots. The lower corners contain the words “HENRY KEENER/WOMELSDORF/1843” and the initial “M” and the name “HAINE.” Henry Keener was born January 5, 1812 and married Anna Maria Wilhem on December 22, 1833. He died September 10, 1895.
Location: Currently not on view

date made: 1843

maker: Keener, Henry

ID Number: TE.T15006
catalog number: T15006.000
accession number: 286879

This blue and white, geometric double-cloth coverlet was woven with cotton and wool yarn. The pattern used is commonly known as “Whig Rose.” Interestingly, there are no borders on this coverlet, and there is no evidence to suggest it has been cut down over its lifetime.

Description: This blue and white, geometric double-cloth coverlet was woven with cotton and wool yarn. The pattern used is commonly known as “Whig Rose.” Interestingly, there are no borders on this coverlet, and there is no evidence to suggest it has been cut down over its lifetime. According to the donor, this coverlet was owned and used by Eliza Hackly Pelton Pettibone, of Crown Point Indiana, before 1850. The coverlet measures 92 inches by 74.5 inches and is constructed of two panels that were woven as one length, cut, and sewn together with a center seam.
Location: Currently not on view

date made: ca 1840; c. 1840

maker: unknown

ID Number: TE.T12676
catalog number: T12676.000
accession number: 237318

This coverlet is from what is known as the “Big Lion” or “Hollow Lion” group. The weaver has not yet been identified.

Description: This coverlet is from what is known as the “Big Lion” or “Hollow Lion” group. The weaver has not yet been identified. There have been at least eighteen of these coverlets identified and collectors and scholars have attributed these coverlets to Auburn State Prison or to weaver, Harry Tyler, who also sometimes used a lion in his cornerblocks. There is; however, no evidence to corroborate these prior attributions. The centerfield design features stylized floral carpet medallions. There are borders on three sides. The side borders depict flowering trees, and the bottom border also features a different design of tall, leafed trees. The cornerblocks are unsigned and undated and contain a vertically oriented lion. This lion is depicted in outline form rather than solid as depicted in Tyler’s coverlets. This coverlet measures 84 inches by 78 inches and was constructed from two panels sewn together with a center seam. The unidentified weaver would have been from the Finger Lakes region of New York state and the coverlet was likely woven between the years 1835 and 1845.
Location: Currently not on view

Date made: 1829; 1830s?
date made: 1835-1845

maker ? not sure: Tyler, Harry
maker: Tyler, Harry; unknown

ID Number: TE.T18629
catalog number: T18629.000
accession number: 1978.2413

Andrew Kump’s workshop produced this Jacquard, blue & white, tied-Beiderwand coverlet. It features fringe on 3 sides. The border is composed of floral chains, which appear to be roses.

Description: Andrew Kump’s workshop produced this Jacquard, blue & white, tied-Beiderwand coverlet. It features fringe on 3 sides. The border is composed of floral chains, which appear to be roses. The centerfield pattern is made up of “Double Lily” and “Double Lily” medallions and there are woven cornerblocks that read, "Andrew Kump, Damask Coverlet Manufacturer, Hanover, York County Pa. 1848." The coverlet measures 96x88 inches and has a center seam indicating it was woven on a handloom with a Jacquard attachment. The refinement of the design of this coverlet when compared with our other Kump coverlet (T8955), which was woven in 1836 reflect the rapid advancement of the patterning technology and the shifting tastes in style.; Kump worked in Hanover, York County, Pennsylvania, but advertised in Northern Maryland as well as Pennsylvania. Kump employed another weaver named Valentine Cook (1820-1869). The only evidence that Kump was a coverlet weaver comes from the 1835-1836 York County tax lists. The 1850 Federal Census listed Kump as a retail store owner with Cook living in the household. In the 1860 Federal Census, Cook is absent and Kump is listed as a confectioner. More evidence is needed to prove without a doubt that Kump owned the license for the weaving equipment that Cook was using, but the absence of signed Cook coverlets seems to suggest that Kump was having his own branded coverlets woven on-site at his store. In 1855, when Cook moved to Adams County, Pennsylvania, William Gernand, a Maryland coverlet weaver, advertised that he had recently purchased Kump’s equipment and inventory. It is therefore likely, that at least after 1850, Cook was weaving coverlets sold by Kump at his store.
Location: Currently not on view

Date made: 1848

weaver: Kump, Andrew

ID Number: TE.T8956
catalog number: T08956.000
accession number: 164228

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Andrew Kump; coverlet; Jacquard, tied-Beiderwand; 1848; Pennsylvania