Textiles

Coverlet

The 50,000 objects in the textile collections fall into two main categories: raw fibers, yarns, and fabrics, and machines, tools, and other textile technology. Shawls, coverlets, samplers, laces, linens, synthetics, and other fabrics are part of the first group, along with the 400 quilts in the National Quilt Collection. Some of the Museum's most popular artifacts, such as the Star-Spangled Banner and the gowns of the first ladies, have an obvious textile connection.

The machinery and tools include spinning wheels, sewing machines, thimbles, needlework tools, looms, and an invention that changed the course of American agriculture and society. A model of Eli Whitney's cotton gin, made by the inventor in the early 1800s, shows the workings of a machine that helped make cotton plantations profitable in the South and encouraged the spread of slavery.

Place: Ohio

1865 - 1875 Lizzie Lisle's "Fold and Cut" Appliqued Quilt

Lizzie Lisle appliquéd this red and white quilt in about 1870, probably in Cadiz, Iowa before her marriage. Sixteen 14¾ -inch blocks are appliquéd with red conventionalized flowers and four spade-shaped leaves.
Description
Lizzie Lisle appliquéd this red and white quilt in about 1870, probably in Cadiz, Iowa before her marriage. Sixteen 14¾ -inch blocks are appliquéd with red conventionalized flowers and four spade-shaped leaves. Each flower has cut-outs forming a cross, revealing the white ground beneath. The center is framed by a 2-inch red band. An 11-inch white border is embellished with a traditional appliqué pattern of swags, bows, and tassels.
This quilt was referred to in a 1949 Woman’s Day magazine as a “Lincoln Drape” quilt. In the period from 1865 to 1875, a popular swag pattern known as “Lincoln Drape” was used to commemorate the death of Abraham Lincoln and can be found on other decorative items such as glassware. The whole piece is quilted 11 to 12 stitches per inch, with diagonal grid and triple diagonal line patterns.
Elizabeth (Lizzie) Lisle, born in Ohio in 1836, was the daughter of John Lisle (1803-1890s) and Elizabeth Johnston (1811-1889). Members of the extended Lisle family were early settlers in Jefferson and Harrison Counties in Ohio, but many also moved westward and settled in Iowa. It was in Jasper County, Iowa, on February 11, 1886, that Lizzie married Eden Randall. Eden was born in Delaware County, Ohio, about 1840 and served in the Civil War (Co. G, 3rd Iowa Volunteer Infantry).
Mustered in June 8, 1861, Eden was taken prisoner on April 6, 1862, in Shiloh, Tennessee. In January 1863 he was part of a prisoner exchange and rejoined his company, only to be severely wounded in the face and mouth on June 12, 1863, at Vicksburg, Tennessee. He recovered in a hospital in Keokuk, Iowa. Elizabeth and Eden had no children. Lizzie is buried in Fairview Township, Jasper County, Iowa. Her grandniece generously donated two of Lizzie Lisle's quilts to the Smithsonian in 1949.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1865-1875
maker
Lisle, Lizzie
ID Number
TE.T10101
accession number
144535
catalog number
T10101

1838 Faber's Patent Model of a Hand Card

Hand Card Patent ModelPatent No. 863, issued August 1, 1838George Faber of Canton, OhioFaber’s patent related to the construction of the common hand card used for carding cotton or wool prior to the spinning process.
Description
Hand Card Patent Model
Patent No. 863, issued August 1, 1838
George Faber of Canton, Ohio
Faber’s patent related to the construction of the common hand card used for carding cotton or wool prior to the spinning process. He specifically patented using wood veneer, instead of leather, for the foundation that contained the card’s wire teeth. The wood was cut from 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch in thickness, 4 inches in width, and 4 to 8 inches in length. The wood was then steeped in water to soften it so that when placed in a card-making machine, it could be pricked and the teeth inserted. The veneer was nailed to another piece of wood and a handle inserted to form the hand card.
Although Faber did not claim credit for inventing the card-making machine, in his patent specification he did mention that he had made improvements on it.
Location
Currently not on view
model constructed
before 1838-08-01
patent date
1838-08-01
inventor
Faber, George
ID Number
TE.T11396.030
catalog number
T11396.030
accession number
89797
patent number
863

1850 - 1870 Sarah Young's "Rose of Sharon" Quilt

Initials “S.A.Y.” are inked on the corner of this pieced and appliqued quilt. According to family information Sarah Ann Young made this quilt and two others as a teenager, probably with the assistance of her mother, Elizabeth Young.
Description
Initials “S.A.Y.” are inked on the corner of this pieced and appliqued quilt. According to family information Sarah Ann Young made this quilt and two others as a teenager, probably with the assistance of her mother, Elizabeth Young. The cotton fabrics used to create the “Rose of Sharon” variation were home dyed. What appears tan now, was once green. The 3-ply cotton applique threads still show as a green color against the tan. It is quilted, 10 stitches per inch, with hearts, vines, and outline and echo quilting on the appliqued motifs and background.
Sarah Ann Young was born in Preble Co., Ohio, July 28, 1849 and died in Greenville, Ohio, April 20, 1936. The quilt descended in her brother, John Franklin Young’s, family.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1850-1870
maker
Young, Sarah Ann
ID Number
TE.T12863
accession number
244875
catalog number
T12863

1825 - 1840 Susan Strong's "Great Seal" Quilt

An appliquéd and embroidered adaptation of the Great Seal of the United States centers this cotton quilt made by Susan Strong in the early second quarter of the nineteenth century. Susan probably made this quilt in Ohio, where her family moved prior to 1820.
Description
An appliquéd and embroidered adaptation of the Great Seal of the United States centers this cotton quilt made by Susan Strong in the early second quarter of the nineteenth century. Susan probably made this quilt in Ohio, where her family moved prior to 1820. The Great Seal has been in use since 1782 to authenticate documents issued by the United States government. Adaptations of this patriotic motif, a bald eagle with its wings spread, have been used on many quilts.
In Susan’s adaptation, the eagle holds vines in its talons and beak instead of the arrows, olive branch, and banner with E Pluribus Unum that are found on the traditional motif. The thirteen appliquéd 8-pointed stars above the eagle represent the thirteen colonies. The center panel is framed by three borders, each 7½-inches wide. They are appliquéd with the same design of flowering vines growing from corner vases. Two fabrics, a white cotton and roller-printed discharge white on blue cotton, are used alternately for the appliqué and the background. The shield and details on the eagle’s head are embroidered with silk thread in chain and satin stitches. Quilting is 6 stitches to the inch, in various patterns. This patriotic quilt is an example of an important design motif used to decorate many objects during the early part of the nineteenth century.
Susan Strong was born on July 4, 1809, in Frederick County, Maryland. She is listed among the pioneers in Richland County, Ohio, those who lived in the county prior to 1820. Charles, George, and John Strong of Maryland are among the 1818 listing of property owners in Jefferson Township. Susan married William Bell (1805-1847) on December 6, 1831. William was the son of Robert Bell, an early developer (1814) of the town of Bellville, Ohio. They had six children, two boys and four girls (all of whom taught school). In 1840 they moved to Hancock County, but Susan returned to Bellville after the death of William in 1847. She did not remarry and later lived with her daughter, Sarah (Mrs. Charles H. Dewey), in Omaha, Nebraska. Susan died in 1875, at age 66.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1825-1840
maker
Strong, Susan
ID Number
TE.T14833
catalog number
T14833
accession number
283467

1900 - 1925 Flossie B. Prices's "Log Cabin" Comforter

According to her niece, Mrs. Vane Hoge, this “Log Cabin” or “Barn Raising” comforter was made by her aunt, Flossie B. Price.
Description
According to her niece, Mrs. Vane Hoge, this “Log Cabin” or “Barn Raising” comforter was made by her aunt, Flossie B. Price. Flossie stitched it together from fabrics saved from the family’s clothing.
The eighty blocks, each 8½-inches square, have dark red centers and are hand-pieced, but machine-joined to one another. Flossie used plain-weave, twilled, pattern-weave, crepe, striped, and plaid wools. She also used plain-weave, plaid, pattern-weave, and printed cotton flannel. Checked wool/cottons and plain-color silk/cottons were also used to achieve the dramatic light and dark effect. A lining of printed wool and an interlining of wool and cotton fabric provided the comforter with additional warmth. Ties made of red, pink, and aquamarine wool yarn at the corners and center of each block accent the overall design.
Flossie B. Price lived from 1882 to 1960. Her home was in Marion, Ohio. Her early twentieth-century comforter is a dramatic variation of the “Log Cabin” pattern, utilizing a wide variety of fabrics.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1900-1925
maker
Price, Flossie
ID Number
TE.T15591
accession number
295255
catalog number
T15591

1840 - 1850 Mary Ann Bishop's "Wreath of Roses" Appliqued Quilt

In the mid-nineteenth century, Mary Ann Bishop appliquéd this cotton “Wreath of Roses” quilt in the then popular red and green combination of fabrics. Nine 18-inch blocks appliquéd with wreaths of roses are separated by 5½-inch plain white sashing.
Description
In the mid-nineteenth century, Mary Ann Bishop appliquéd this cotton “Wreath of Roses” quilt in the then popular red and green combination of fabrics. Nine 18-inch blocks appliquéd with wreaths of roses are separated by 5½-inch plain white sashing. Eight-pointed stars are appliquéd at the sashing intersections. The 8-inch quilt border is appliquéd with three-lobed leaves on an undulating vine. Plain-weave white and red cottons and a roller-printed cotton of brown dots on a green ground were used for the quilt. Diagonal grid and line quilting, 10 stitches to the inch, provides a contrast to the quilted feathered leaves on the sashing. Two gradually curved S-shaped wooden templates, also donated to the Collection, were used for marking the quilting pattern.
Mary Ann Gotschall was born July 7, 1819. She married Hiram H. Bishop (1818-1897) on January 31, 1842, in Harrison County, Ohio. He received his medical training at Starling Medical College in Columbus, Ohio, in the late 1840s. Lyne Starling (1784-1848) was the founder of the hospital and medical school, a new concept at that time of providing medical education and patient care in one facility. During the Civil War, from June 1864 to March 1865, Hiram was contracted as an Acting Assistant Surgeon at the Totten General Hospital, Louisville, Kentucky. In March of 1865, when he left, the hospital had over 6,500 patients and fewer than 100 surgeons.
Mary and Hiram reared four children; John (b. 1843), Naomi (b. 1845), Mary (b. 1848), and Luie (b. 1860). Mary Ann died March 9, 1915, and is buried in the Wilkesville Cemetery. Mary Ann Bishop’s quilt in the “Wreath of Roses” pattern is one of three quilts in the collection that were donated to the Smithsonian by her granddaughter, Maude M. Fierce, in 1936 and 1937.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1840-1850
maker
Bishop, Mary Ann Gotschall
ID Number
TE.T07956
accession number
143694
catalog number
T07956

1860 - 1864 Martha Loud's Parlor Throw

Martha Mehetable Loud pieced the top of this parlor throw in a hexagon or mosaic pattern. Her grandmother, Lucena Beardley Kile, lined and finished it after Martha's death at age fifteen.
Description
Martha Mehetable Loud pieced the top of this parlor throw in a hexagon or mosaic pattern. Her grandmother, Lucena Beardley Kile, lined and finished it after Martha's death at age fifteen. Black silk hexagons set off rosettes composed of pieced 1¼-inch hexagons of plain, striped, moiré, plaid, printed, ribbed, brocaded, and pattern-woven silks. Three sides are edged with a narrow black ribbon and a pleated 1 inch red-violet wool braid. The lining is constructed of nine pieces of dark green and white striped silk. The parlor throw is not quilted but tied every two inches with pink and dark green silk thread. From the middle of the nineteenth century, patchwork made of silks and velvets, such as this parlor throw, were a popular means to display needlework and artistic skills.
Martha Mehetable Loud was born January 24, 1849 and lived in Huntsburg, Geauga, Ohio, until her early death in 1864. Her grandmother, Lucena Beardley Kile, was born in Connecticut about 1800 and also lived in Huntsburg, Geauga, Ohio. She died in 1886. The quilt was donated to the Museum in 1969 by Mrs. Charles Bittinger who was the daughter of Martha Loud's sister.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1860-1864
quilter
Loud, Martha Mehetable
Kile, Lucena Beardley
ID Number
TE.T15027
catalog number
T15027
accession number
285569

1875 - 1888 Mary Ann Bishop's "Ocean Wave" Pieced Quilt

This “Ocean Wave” quilt was begun by Mary Ann Bishop of Wilkesville, Vinton County, Ohio, in 1875 and quilted in 1888. Roller-printed cottons with a few woven checks and plaids were pieced for the patterns that set off the quilted plain, cream-colored cotton centers.
Description
This “Ocean Wave” quilt was begun by Mary Ann Bishop of Wilkesville, Vinton County, Ohio, in 1875 and quilted in 1888. Roller-printed cottons with a few woven checks and plaids were pieced for the patterns that set off the quilted plain, cream-colored cotton centers. A saw-tooth strip of red cotton appliquéd to the 6-inch border frames the “Ocean Wave” pattern. Quilted, at 9 stitches per inch, with straight lines on the pieced sections, the feathered circles and feathered leaves provide a surface texture to the quilt. Two gradually curved S-shaped wooden templates, also donated to the Collection, were used for pencil marking the quilting pattern.
Mary Ann Gotschall was born July 7, 1819. She married Hiram H. Bishop (1818-1897) on January 31, 1842 in Harrison County, Ohio. He received his medical training at Starling Medical College in Columbus, Ohio in the late 1840s. Lyne Starling (1784-1848) was the founder of the hospital and medical school, a new concept at that time of providing medical education and patient care in one facility. During the Civil War, from June 1864 to March 1865, Hiram was contracted as an Acting Assistant Surgeon at the Totten General Hospital, Louisville, Kentucky. In March of 1865, when he left, the hospital had over 6,500 patients and fewer than 100 surgeons.
Mary and Hiram reared four children; John (b. 1843), Naomi (b. 1845), Mary (b. 1848), and Luie (b. 1860). Mary Ann died March 9, 1915, and is buried in the Wilkesville Cemetery. Mary Ann Bishop’s quilt in the “Ocean Wave” pattern is one of three quilts in the Collection that were donated by her granddaughter, Maude M. Fierce, in 1936 and 1937.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1875-1888
maker
Bishop, Mary Ann Gotschall
ID Number
TE.T07851
accession number
141189
catalog number
T07851

1850 - 1875 Mary Ann Bishop's "Double Nine-patch" Pieced Quilt

Mary Ann Bishop of Wilkesville, Vinton County, Ohio, made this quilt in the mid-nineteenth century. She utilized plain-woven roller-printed cotton dress fabrics and woven striped, checked, and plaid cottons.
Description
Mary Ann Bishop of Wilkesville, Vinton County, Ohio, made this quilt in the mid-nineteenth century. She utilized plain-woven roller-printed cotton dress fabrics and woven striped, checked, and plaid cottons. Two of the blocks of the “Double Nine-patch” quilt were enlarged by adding strips of printed cotton along two edges. A combination of diagonal-line and feathered “S” curve patterns were used for the quilting. Two gradually curved S-shaped wooden templates, also donated to the Collection, were used for marking the quilting pattern.
Mary Ann Gotschall was born July 7, 1819. She married Hiram H. Bishop (1818-1897) on January 31, 1842 in Harrison County, Ohio. He received his medical training at Starling Medical College in Columbus, Ohio, in the late 1840s. Lyne Starling (1784-1848) was the founder of the hospital and medical school, a new concept at that time of providing medical education and patient care in one facility. During the Civil War, from June 1864 to March 1865, Hiram was contracted as an Acting Assistant Surgeon at the Totten General Hospital, Louisville, Kentucky. In March of 1865, when he left, the hospital had over 6,500 patients and fewer than 100 surgeons.
Mary and Hiram reared four children; John (b. 1843), Naomi (b. 1845), Mary (b. 1848), and Luie (b. 1860). Mary Ann died March 9, 1915, and is buried in the Wilkesville Cemetery. Mary Ann Bishop’s quilt in the “Double Nine-patch” pattern is one of three quilts in the Collection that were donated by her granddaughter, Maude M. Fierce, in 1936 and 1937.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1850-1875
maker
Bishop, Mary Ann Gotschall
ID Number
TE.T07850
accession number
141189
catalog number
T07850

1935 - 1945 Mary Louisa Matthews' Child's Quilt

Mary Louisa Matthews crafted this child’s quilt incorporating popular nursery rhyme motifs in each of the twelve blocks for her great niece, the donor. The blocks are each 7 ½” square, embroidered and set in 3 ½” sashing.
Description
Mary Louisa Matthews crafted this child’s quilt incorporating popular nursery rhyme motifs in each of the twelve blocks for her great niece, the donor. The blocks are each 7 ½” square, embroidered and set in 3 ½” sashing. These in turn are framed by a 1 ½” white border and a 2” outer border. Embroidered inscriptions include: “Dutch Boy,” “O Grandmother What Big Eyes You’ve Got,” “Hi Diddle Diddle,” “Goldilocks,” “Three Men in a Tub,” “Sunbonnet Sue,” “Mary Had a Little Lamb,” “Mother Hubbard,” “Overall Boy,” “Little Boy Blue,” “Peter Peter Pumpkin Eater,” and, “Little Tin Soldiers.” Bound with a plain green ¼” strip and tied with white wool in a few places.
Mary Louisa Matthews was born August 28, 1864, in Cleveland, Ohio. She attended Mount Holyoke Female Seminary (Mount Holyoke College) in Massachusetts in the 1880s. She taught at Fisk University in Nashville, Tennessee, before going to Monastir (now Bitola) Macedonia as a missionary in 1888. It was there that she began her work as a teacher at a boarding school, American School for Girls. During the time she lived there (1888 – 1920) she wrote detailed letters and diaries that are now in the Archives at Mount Holyoke College. After returning to the U.S. in 1920 she once again taught at Fisk University and continued her missionary work. She died in Lancaster, Wisconsin, December 31, 1950. Her nursery rhyme quilt is a small example of one of her many talents.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1935 - 1945
maker
Matthews, Mary Louisa
ID Number
2018.0094.01
accession number
2018.0094
catalog number
2018.0094.01

1935 - 1945 Olive Bender's "Water Lily " Quilt

Olive Bender made this quilt for her son and daughter-in-law as a Christmas gift in the 1940s. Her grandson, David Bender, later donated the quilt.
Description
Olive Bender made this quilt for her son and daughter-in-law as a Christmas gift in the 1940s. Her grandson, David Bender, later donated the quilt. He recalled that his grandmother would work on quilt patches during the warm months, and then, in the winter, quilt on frames she would set up in the dining room of her Ohio farmhouse.
Nine 16”-inch blocks, appliquéd and embroidered in the “Water Lily” pattern, are set in pink and white sashing. The lily buds, leaves, water, lily pad, and flower details are embroidered. Various patterns quilted at 7 stitches per inch and scalloped edges complete the overall quilt design.
Popular in the 1920s to 1940s, the “Water Lily” motif was available in kit form or as a paper pattern. Quilt historian, Cuesta Benberry, traced this pattern to the Rainbow Quilt Block Company owned by William Pinch. His company perfected a printing process that stamped colors on muslin squares indicating the color of embroidery threads needed to complete the motif and gave the company its name, Rainbow. William Pinch (1880-1972), a professional photographer, created as many as 1,000 designs for his company. Advertised in flyers, newsletters and catalogs, the kits and patterns could be purchased by mail or in retail stores making them available to small towns and rural areas.
Olive Mae (nee Fairall) Bender was born February 13, 1892, in Frazeysburg, Ohio. She died April 18, 1971, in East Sparta, Ohio. Her quilt is an example of mid-20th-century quilting and of a design available from the Rainbow Quilt Block Company, one of many companies that promoted quilting from the 1920s on by publishing patterns and providing quilting kits.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1935-1945
maker
Bender, Olive Mae Fairall
ID Number
1996.0223.01
accession number
1996.0223
catalog number
1996.0223.01

1986 "Garnette Hamilton - Queen of Hoboes" Quilt

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1986
ID Number
1987.0699.01
accession number
1987.0699
catalog number
1987.0699.01

1979 - 1980 Francoise Barnes' "Inhibitions II" Quilt

“Inhibitions II,” as named by the artist, Francoise Barnes, is a quilted piece utilizing the “Log Cabin” pattern. Francoise was among the artists in the 1970s who established the Art Quilt movement in which artists use traditional and modern quilting techniques to create art.
Description
“Inhibitions II,” as named by the artist, Francoise Barnes, is a quilted piece utilizing the “Log Cabin” pattern. Francoise was among the artists in the 1970s who established the Art Quilt movement in which artists use traditional and modern quilting techniques to create art. She, along with others, helped found the Quilt National, a venue for the exhibition of non-traditional quilts.
Nine 14-inch Log Cabin blocks of contrasting solid colors were assembled to create the center of this quilted piece. It is framed by a 5½-inch diagonally-pieced border. It is machine stitched and hand quilted. Vivid colors and the use of shading contribute to the overall dynamism of this 1970s example of an Art Quilt.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1979-1980
maker
Barnes, Francoise
ID Number
1995.0011.07
accession number
1995.0011
catalog number
1995.0011.07

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