Textiles

The 50,000 objects in the textile collections fall into two main categories: raw fibers, yarns, and fabrics, and machines, tools, and other textile technology. Shawls, coverlets, samplers, laces, linens, synthetics, and other fabrics are part of the first group, along with the 400 quilts in the National Quilt Collection. Some of the Museum's most popular artifacts, such as the Star-Spangled Banner and the gowns of the first ladies, have an obvious textile connection.

The machinery and tools include spinning wheels, sewing machines, thimbles, needlework tools, looms, and an invention that changed the course of American agriculture and society. A model of Eli Whitney's cotton gin, made by the inventor in the early 1800s, shows the workings of a machine that helped make cotton plantations profitable in the South and encouraged the spread of slavery.

Three block alphabets; no "J" or "U." All alphabet letters and words in inscription done in alternating colors; geometric crossbands (some of them geometric flowering vines) separate all rows. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground.
Description
Three block alphabets; no "J" or "U." All alphabet letters and words in inscription done in alternating colors; geometric crossbands (some of them geometric flowering vines) separate all rows. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground. STITCHES: cross, two-sided cross, marking cross, satin, straight, fern, Algerian eye, herringbone, long-armed cross. THREAD COUNT: warp 38, weft 39/in.
Inscription:
"ELISABeTH HOLLAND IS MY NA
Me ENGLISH IS MY NATION BOST
ON IS MY DWeLLING PLACe
AND CHRIST IS MY SALVATION
WHeN I AM DeAD AND GONE
AND ALL MY BONeS ARE ROTeN
I LeAVe THIS SAMPLeR BeHIND
I MAY NOT Be FORGOTTeN FINIS
HeD IN THe 13 YeAR OF HeR
AGe OCTOBeR 14 1737"
Background:
Elizabeth was born on June 28, 1725, to Samuel and Elizabeth Holland in Boston, Massachusetts. She married Edward Gyles in Boston on her birthday, June 28, 1743. They had two sons, Edward and Samuel.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1737
maker
Holland, Elizabeth
ID Number
TE.T18126
catalog number
T18126
accession number
323477
Three block alphabets. No "J"; numbers to 18 and to 9; alphabets and numbers colored in groups of two.
Description
Three block alphabets. No "J"; numbers to 18 and to 9; alphabets and numbers colored in groups of two. Rows of lettering and numbers separated by geometric crossbands; also two wide crossbands; one geometric strawberry vine, and one geometric vine with free-style roses, with guide-lines drawn under roses. At bottom of sampler, stag and doe on hillocks, surrounded by birds, butterflies, trees, flowers, under angular garland; stag and doe have satin-stitched collars. Name and date appear in flower-shaped medallion hanging from garland. Border of band of sawtoothed satin stitch and geometric carnation vine on all four sides. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground. STITCHES: cross, crosslet, stem, satin, Algerian eye, straight, bullion. THREAD COUNT: warp 36, weft 29/in.
Inscriptions:
"See How The Lillief[s] Flour White And Fair
See How the Ravenf[s] Fed From Heavenf[s] Air
Arif[s]e Thou King of Kingf[s] Arif[s]e And Reign
Except Thy Worf[s]hip SprinG All Worf[s]hipf[s] Vain
Elizabeth
Maf[s]On her
WOrk Ma
de
in the 11
Year Of
her ag
1783"
Background:
Elizabeth Mason was probably from the Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, area.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1783
maker
Mason, Elizabeth
ID Number
TE.E391808
catalog number
E391808
accession number
71679
Three block alphabets of 26 letters (one incomplete); one script alphabet to "V"; no "J"; numbers to 9. Alphabets and numbers colored in pairs or groups with all rows separated by simple geometric crossbands.
Description
Three block alphabets of 26 letters (one incomplete); one script alphabet to "V"; no "J"; numbers to 9. Alphabets and numbers colored in pairs or groups with all rows separated by simple geometric crossbands. At bottom of sampler, pair of birds on trees and pair of urns with flowers. Border of simple geometric meandering band on all four sides. Silk embroidery thread on dark green linsey-woolsey ground; warp is blue linen and weft is green wool. STITCHES: cross, satin, hem. THREAD COUNT: warp 24, weft 34/in.
Inscription:
"Anzolette Hussey Aged
9 Years Nov 7th 1821"
Background:
Anzolette was born on April 7, 1812, to Captain Andrew (1783–1861) and Mary Tredick Hussey in Portsmouth, New Hampshire. She married Ebenezer Knight on June 15, 1835, and they had five daughters—Mary, Ariadne, Hannah E., Sarah K., and Abby. Anzolette died on November 20, 1895, in Washington, D.C., but is buried in Portsmouth. This sampler is very different from her other one and was probably worked at a different school. In 1827, at the age of fourteen, she was a student in the First Female School of Portsmouth. Throughout her life she used two different spellings for her first name. See Annzalette Hussey for her other sampler.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1821
maker
Hussey, Anzolette
ID Number
TE.H33960
catalog number
H33960
H. (/) 33960
accession number
63786
Three block alphabets of 26 letters. Numbers to 9. Word "Marcellus" appears at end of one alphabet. Sampler worked in black silk with brown cotton used only for small period at ends of rows.
Description
Three block alphabets of 26 letters. Numbers to 9. Word "Marcellus" appears at end of one alphabet. Sampler worked in black silk with brown cotton used only for small period at ends of rows. Border of single row of long-armed cross at top, single row of herringbone on each side, single row of double cross at bottom. Silk thread on cotton ground. STITCHES: cross, long-armed cross, herringbone, eyelet, four-sided, crosslet, double cross. THREAD COUNT: warp 26, weft 26/in.
Inscriptions:
"With ink and pen.
These marks will give.
The lives of men.
To all that live.
Worked by M Cook.
August 1818."
Background:
Mary was born on February 22, 1806, to Daniel and Rebecca Pomeroy Cook in Skaneateles, New York. Daniel served in the Revolutionary War for three months at Saratoga in 1781, and died on August 3, 1806, in Marcellus, New York. Mary stitched her sampler while her family was living in Marcellus. She did not marry, and died on January 30, 1869. She is buried at Mount Hope Cemetery in Rochester, New York. The sampler descended in the family of her brother, Ira.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1818
maker
Cook, Mary
ID Number
TE.T13201
catalog number
T13201
accession number
250307
Four block alphabets of 26 letters. One script alphabet to "P"; no "J." Numbers to 4. Each row worked in one color, and all rows separated by simple geometric crossbands. Two strawberry plants to right of verse. No border. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground.
Description
Four block alphabets of 26 letters. One script alphabet to "P"; no "J." Numbers to 4. Each row worked in one color, and all rows separated by simple geometric crossbands. Two strawberry plants to right of verse. No border. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground. STITCHES: cross, Algerian eye, four-sided, upright gobelin, satin, stem, hem. THREAD COUNT: warp 26, weft 28/in.
Inscriptions:
"Now mark the Sequel May Your mind
In wiSdomS waYS true PleaSure find
Grow StronG in virtu rich in truth
And Year bY Year renew itS youth
Till in the late triumphant hoUr
The SPirit Shall the fleSh overPoWer
ThiS from itS SUfferinGS Gain releaSe
And that taKe WinG and Part in PeaCe
Sarah BaILIff'S SamPler done Nov 27 1839"
Background:
Sarah Bailiff gave her sampler to a member of Justice Alfred Moore's family at Moorefields, North Carolina, their summer home. It descended in that family until it was given to the Smithsonian. Sarah Bailiff's date of birth has not yet been identified.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1839
maker
Bailiff, Sarah
ID Number
TE.T12722
catalog number
T12722
accession number
238996
One script and two block alphabets of all 26 letters; all these rows separated by simple crossbands. Numbers to 9 (below inscription). All letters and numbers worked in black. In lower register, hearts, flower-basket, flowering plants, birds.
Description
One script and two block alphabets of all 26 letters; all these rows separated by simple crossbands. Numbers to 9 (below inscription). All letters and numbers worked in black. In lower register, hearts, flower-basket, flowering plants, birds. Inscription in solidly filled lozenge. Border of simple geometric band on all four sides. Silk embroidery thread on cotton canvas ground. STITCHES: cross, long-armed cross, herringbone, queen. THREAD COUNT: warp 23, weft 23/in.
Inscription:
"Maria Minton
aged 13 years"
Background:
Nothing is known about the life of Maria Minton.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1826
maker
Minton, Maria
ID Number
TE.T11675
catalog number
T11675
accession number
219034
Block upper-case alphabet; letters colored alternately; no "J" or "U." Numbers 1 to 0. These rows, together with rows containing verse, all separated by narrow crossbands, including sawtooth and dentil patterns.
Description
Block upper-case alphabet; letters colored alternately; no "J" or "U." Numbers 1 to 0. These rows, together with rows containing verse, all separated by narrow crossbands, including sawtooth and dentil patterns. Below verse, three wide crossbands: one of flowering plants, birds, and sheep or goats, and two wide geometric bands in patterns that appear often on eastern Massachusetts samplers, especially in Boston area. At bottom of sampler spies, from Canaan, wearing knee-breeches and flared coats, identified by letters "Ja" and "Ca" and flanked by trees, flowering plants, and small birds. Below them, 1 5/8" strip with geometric strawberry vine solidly worked in cross-stitch. Border of geometric flowering vine on top and two sides. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground. STITCHES: cross, satin, Algerian eye. THREAD COUNT: warp 38, weft 42/in.
Inscriptions:
"When Stern Affliction Waves her Rod
My heart Confids in the my God
When Nature Shrinks Oppresd with woes
E en then in thee She finds Repose
Affliction flyes and hope returns
Her Lamp with brighter Splendor burns
Gay Love with all his Chearful Train
And Joy And peace are here again
Molley Ruff[ss]ell
Ad 12 1776"
Background:
Mary (Molly) was born on June 19, 1765, to Peter and Molly Russell of Bradford, Massachusetts. Her father was a distinguished shipbuilder. She married Ephraim Emery on September 17, 1785. He enlisted as a fifer on April 19, 1775, at the Lexington alarm, and entered the service in William Rogers's Company on April 27, 1775. Ephraim was in the assault on Stony Point and the battle of White Plains. After the war, in 1799, he was appointed captain in the United States Army, 14th Regiment, which was disbanded in 1800. He served successively as captain, brigade major, and inspector in the state militia. The couple had four children—Mary, John, Thomas, and Hannah.
Mary died on March 3, 1843, in Newbury, Massachusetts.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1776
associated dates
1963-11-28
maker
Russell, Molley
ID Number
TE.T20239A
accession number
246268
catalog number
T20239.A
Three block alphabets. One script alphabet; no "J"; "V" and "U" reversed. Numbers to 9; all rows of alphabets, inscription, and verse separated by simple geometric crossbands. Two wider crossbands of birds, trees, plants, strawberries, flowers.
Description
Three block alphabets. One script alphabet; no "J"; "V" and "U" reversed. Numbers to 9; all rows of alphabets, inscription, and verse separated by simple geometric crossbands. Two wider crossbands of birds, trees, plants, strawberries, flowers. Above alphabets, angular arcade with three angels (?). Lower third of sampler contains landscape with hillocks and strawberries, running stag and two dogs, shepherdess and sheep, three flowering trees, parrot and hummingbird. Border of free-style flowering vine across top and down both sides, with single row of marking cross along each side of border. Brown guidelines under free embroidery in landscape and border. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground. STITCHES: cross, marking cross, satin, French knot, tent, long-armed cross, outline, stem, chain, Roumanian, bullion. THREAD COUNT: warp 35, weft 38/in.
Inscription:
"ESTHer Tincom IS MY Name and England IS MY Nation
Boston IS MY dwelling Place and Christ IS MY Salvation
When I am dead and in my grave and all my bones are rotten
When This You f[s]ee remember Me That I Mant be for 12
[gotten Do]ne in the 10 Year of MY age 3456789"
Background:
Information from the donor included the following: "brought from Boston, around the Horn in 1850 and William Patch saved the sampler from the San Francisco fire."
Date made
1764-1774
maker
Tincom, Esther
ID Number
TE.T11099
catalog number
T11099
accession number
200253
One lower-case alphabet; six block alphabets; 26 letters. Numbers 1 through 17. Three practice eyelets, one worked in red cotton, two worked in red wool. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground. STITCHES: cross, tent, four-sided, eyelet, upright cross.
Description
One lower-case alphabet; six block alphabets; 26 letters. Numbers 1 through 17. Three practice eyelets, one worked in red cotton, two worked in red wool. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground. STITCHES: cross, tent, four-sided, eyelet, upright cross. THREAD COUNT: warp 26, weft 39/in.
Inscription:
"Elizabeth Shermer's
work done in the
eleventh year of her
age
1833"
Background:
This may be the Elizabeth Shermer who was born to Anthony and Anna Barbara Diehl Shermer of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. The sixth alphabet on her sampler is very unusual and has been found on other Pennsylvania samplers.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1833
maker
Shermer, Elizabeth
ID Number
1985.0856.01
accession number
1985.0856
catalog number
1985.0856.01
Two block alphabets, one with 26 letters and one with no "J"; "V" and "U" reversed; numbers to 12. Landscape with gentleman and two ladies; gentleman wears short coat, knee breeches, and wide hat, and carries a walking stick.
Description
Two block alphabets, one with 26 letters and one with no "J"; "V" and "U" reversed; numbers to 12. Landscape with gentleman and two ladies; gentleman wears short coat, knee breeches, and wide hat, and carries a walking stick. One lady wears flowered dress; the other wears striped dress and both wear caps or hats. Hill, tree, and flowering bush on lawn, and small leaping dog. Overhead, clouds and trumpeting angel. Border has wide free-style meandering vine with various flowers. Brown guidelines under center scene and floral border. Just below verse, five rows of staggered cross stitch cover seam where two pieces of ground fabric join. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground. STITCHES: cross, crosslet, petit point, chain, stem, outline, queen. THREAD COUNT: warp 26, weft 32/in.
Inscriptions:
"Let f[s]potlef[s]s innocence and truth
My every action guide
And guard my unexperienced Youth
From vanity and pride
Jemima
Gorham born
august 28 1775
made this sampler
in Bristol 1790
at Mrs. ushers
School"
Background:
Jemima was born on August 29, 1775, to Isaac and Sarah Thomas Gorham in Bristol, Rhode Island. She was the oldest of nine children, and her father died at sea at the age of 48. Jemima married Nicholas Peck as his second wife on October 1, 1797, and died on November 7, 1798, in Bristol, shortly after the birth of their daughter, Jemima Gorham Peck. A year later Nicholas married his wife's sister, Sarah Gorham, on October 5, 1799.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1790
maker
Gorham, Jemima
ID Number
TE.L06956.A
catalog number
L06956A
accession number
113420
One script alphabet with letters colored in pairs; no "J"; three rows separated by simple crossbands. Below verse, three flowering plants (one in vase) and two-story building with four chimneys standing next to tree on hill.
Description
One script alphabet with letters colored in pairs; no "J"; three rows separated by simple crossbands. Below verse, three flowering plants (one in vase) and two-story building with four chimneys standing next to tree on hill. Center section outlined by three sawtoothed bands and short strawberry-vine band. Border of wide geometric flowering vine on top and two sides, and band of shaded satin stitches across bottom. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground. STITCHES: cross, crosslet, chain, detached chain, petit point, outline, satin, hem. THREAD COUNT: warp 32, weft 28/in.
Inscriptions:
"The fairest flower will soon decay
Its fragrant loose and splended hue
So youth and beauty wear away
And vanish is the morning dew
Sukey Fosters Work
Wrought in the tWelfth
Year of her age
Cambridge
August 20 1803"
Background:
Sukey was born on March 10, 1791, to James and Sukey Foster in Hopkinton, Massachusetts. She married William Adams on September 17, 1818, and they had four children—Susan Ann, William, Hannah Foster, and Mary Jane. Sukey died in West Cambridge, Massachusetts, on September 13, 1846. Her sampler descended in the family of her son William.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1803
maker
Foster, Sukey
ID Number
1980.0849.01
accession number
1980.0849
catalog number
1980.0849.01
Script upper-case alphabet, & at end; second line completed with geometric vine; block upper-case alphabet; lower-case alphabet, & at end. Fourth row completed with geometric vine. Fifth row, numbers to 14, completed on each side with geometric vine.
Description
Script upper-case alphabet, & at end; second line completed with geometric vine; block upper-case alphabet; lower-case alphabet, & at end. Fourth row completed with geometric vine. Fifth row, numbers to 14, completed on each side with geometric vine. Alphabets and numbers separated by simple crossbands; simple crossbands separate above from Family Record and inscription. Geometric vine separates inscription and verse. Floral motif on each side of verse. All above enclosed in simple geometric border. Outer border of flowering vine that emanates from Grecian-style urn at bottom center and bows at top center, at lower left, and at lower right. Inked pattern for outer border visible. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground. STITCHES: satin, encroaching satin, queen, chain, outline, cross. THREAD COUNT: warp 32, weft 28/in.
Inscriptions:
"Family Record
Daniel Dutch born f[s]eptember 3 1765 Sarah Dodge born June 12 1766
were married september 17 1786 Nathaniel Dodge Dutch born
september 10 1787 Daniel Dutch born march 7 1790 died may 12 1791
Sarah Dutch born march 20 1792 Daniel Dutch born december 28
1794 Priscilla Dutch born september 9 1797 Mary Dutch born
november 12 1800 Isaac Dodge Dutch born december 21 1803
Mrs Sarah Dutch died February 7 1808 in the 42 year of her age
Priscilla Dutch wrought this sampler in the 11th year of her age 1808
As this fair sampler shall continue still
The guide and model of my future skill
May Christ the great exemplar of mankind
Direct my ways and regulate my mind"
Background:
Priscilla was born on September 9, 1797, to Daniel and Sarah Dodge Dutch, near Ipswich, Massachusetts. She married Ebenezer Putnam, a widower, on May 7, 1844. They did not have any children, but Priscilla was a mother to the thirteen children of Ebenezer and his first wife, Betsey Webb Putnam. Priscilla died on April 18, 1856, in Massachusetts.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1808
maker
Dutch, Priscilla
ID Number
1999.0083.01
catalog number
1999.0083.01
accession number
1999.0083
One script and four block alphabets. Numbers to 10 and to 16. Two large and one small alphabet colored in groups of two; fourth alphabet colored in groups of four; numbers and smallest alphabet one color.
Description
One script and four block alphabets. Numbers to 10 and to 16. Two large and one small alphabet colored in groups of two; fourth alphabet colored in groups of four; numbers and smallest alphabet one color. Rows of alphabets and numbers separated by geometric crossbands; some geometric motifs used to fill spaces on rows of alphabets. Lower third of sampler contains two urns of free-stitched flowers surrounding large basket of fruit with side leaves. Geometric design border on all four sides. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground. STITCHES: cross, crosslet, satin, Algerian eye, rice, double herringbone, stem, four-sided. THREAD COUNT: warp 29, weft 29/in.
Inscription:
"[Margaret] C. Simmons Work Washington City Oct th 2 d
1827"
Background:
Margaret was born about 1819 to James and Mary Simmons. James is listed as a cooper, a barrel-maker, living at the Navy Yard in the 1822 Washington, D.C. directory. The court records of the District of Columbia record the marriage of Margaret C. Simmons to Patrick Dowling on May 9, 1839. In 1847 they had a son named Julius, who married Rosa M. Kuhn on January 10, 1877. Julius enlisted to serve in the Civil War in 1864 under the alias name of John Dickson. Miss Simmons's first name is missing from her sampler, but she made another sampler, typical of Navy Yard samplers, that included her whole name. Finding that sampler in a private collection made it possible to identify this sampler. Margaret died sometime after the birth of Julius in 1847, and before October 2, 1852, when her husband Patrick remarried.
Date made
1827
maker
Simmons, Margaret C.
ID Number
2000.0143.01
catalog number
2000.0143.01
accession number
2000.0143
Flowers, people, building with fence, crossbands, inscriptions. Top and sides have floral border with eight-pointed star at center top.
Description
Flowers, people, building with fence, crossbands, inscriptions. Top and sides have floral border with eight-pointed star at center top. German alphabet of capitals, no "J." Script alphabet of capitals, no "J." Lower-case alphabet has both "I" and "J" with "w, x, y, and z" smaller than rest of alphabet to make them fit. Silk embroidery thread on cotton ground. STITCHES: cross, satin. THREAD COUNT: warp 25, weft 26/in
Inscriptions:
"School No 7"
"M. A. Hofman
Carlisle
1848"
Background:
Public schools were established in Carlisle, Pennsylvania, in 1836, and needlework and sampler making were part of the curriculum. After grade three, the girls and boys where separated and went to different schools. For the girls, one afternoon each week was devoted to needlework. There are samplers in existence from School No. 7 and School No. 8. It is thought this work was done under the tutelage of Miss Fanny Webber, who taught from 1836 to 1863. M. A. Hofman has not yet been identified.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1848
maker
Hofman, M. A.
ID Number
1998.0130.01
catalog number
1998.0130.01
accession number
1998.0130
Two block alphabets. Upper-case alphabet has 26 letters; lower-case alphabet has no "J." One script alphabet with no "J" or "U." Numbers 1 through 14. Border of a vine with triangular flowers or leaves. Silk embroidery thread on linsey-woolsey; blue linen warp, tan wool weft.
Description
Two block alphabets. Upper-case alphabet has 26 letters; lower-case alphabet has no "J." One script alphabet with no "J" or "U." Numbers 1 through 14. Border of a vine with triangular flowers or leaves. Silk embroidery thread on linsey-woolsey; blue linen warp, tan wool weft. STITCHES: cross, Algerian eye, hem. THREAD COUNT: warp 27, weft 26/in.
Inscription:
"Embroidry [sic] decks
The canvas round
And yields a pleasing view
So virtue tends
to deck the mind
and form its blisful [sic] state
Mary W Tyler aged 12 years
Background:
This may have been made by Mary Welles Tyler, born on April 2, 1792, to Nathan and Nancy Tyler, or by Mary Whitwell Tyler, born on June 23, 1798, to Royall II and Mary Tyler.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1775-1825
maker
Tyler, Mary W.
ID Number
1991.0764.01
catalog number
1991.0764.01
accession number
1991.0764
Five block alphabets of 26 letters, numbers to 14. Each row of alphabets and numbers different color. All these rows separated by narrow geometric crossbands. Border of geometric strawberry vine and single row of herringbone stitch on all four sides.
Description
Five block alphabets of 26 letters, numbers to 14. Each row of alphabets and numbers different color. All these rows separated by narrow geometric crossbands. Border of geometric strawberry vine and single row of herringbone stitch on all four sides. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground. STITCHES: cross, crosslet, long-armed cross, satin, herringbone, eyelet, four-sided, rice, queen, hem. THREAD COUNT: warp 28, weft 28/in.
Inscriptions:
"EDUCATION
Youth like f[s]oftened Wax, with Eaf[s]e will take
Thof[s]e Images that firf[s]t impref[s]sions make.
If thof[s]e are fair, their Actions will be bright,
If foul, they'll clouded be with Shades of Night.
Ann Louisa Ghequiere [f]inished in her 9th year."
Background:
Ann Louisa was born about 1792 to Charles and Harriet Halley Ghequiere in Baltimore, Maryland. She married Dr. Martin Fenwick of West River, Maryland, on August 21, 1815, at St. Peter Pro-Cathedral in Baltimore, Maryland. The marriage was performed by Archbishop John Carroll, with whom her father had been friendly for many years. They had four children—;Harriet, Louisa Claire, Chloe, and Henry. Ann Louisa died on February 22, 1864 in West River.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1799
Associated Name
Ghequiere, Ann Louisa
maker
Chequiere, Ann Louisa
ID Number
TE.T14210
catalog number
T14210
accession number
59228

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