Textiles

The 50,000 objects in the textile collections fall into two main categories: raw fibers, yarns, and fabrics, and machines, tools, and other textile technology. Shawls, coverlets, samplers, laces, linens, synthetics, and other fabrics are part of the first group, along with the 400 quilts in the National Quilt Collection. Some of the Museum's most popular artifacts, such as the Star-Spangled Banner and the gowns of the first ladies, have an obvious textile connection.

The machinery and tools include spinning wheels, sewing machines, thimbles, needlework tools, looms, and an invention that changed the course of American agriculture and society. A model of Eli Whitney's cotton gin, made by the inventor in the early 1800s, shows the workings of a machine that helped make cotton plantations profitable in the South and encouraged the spread of slavery.

This pillow sham is one of two that Margaret Tormey carefully crafted to match an 86-inch quilt top, dated 1886. Crazy patchwork frames a central focus of the Mayflower printed in shades of gray on satin. A 3 ½-inch blue velvet border is machine-stitched to the center.
Description
This pillow sham is one of two that Margaret Tormey carefully crafted to match an 86-inch quilt top, dated 1886. Crazy patchwork frames a central focus of the Mayflower printed in shades of gray on satin. A 3 ½-inch blue velvet border is machine-stitched to the center. All three objects are in the Collection.
Margaret McNamara was born in Ireland (about 1835) and immigrated with her family to the United States about 1848. In 1861 she married Patrick Tormey, who was also born in Ireland (about 1835) and immigrated as a teenager. They lived in Brooklyn, N.Y. Patrick, a Civil War veteran, was keeper of the Brooklyn City Hall for many years. He died in 1900, and Margaret died in 1910.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1880-1886
maker
Tormey, Margaret McNamara
ID Number
TE.T12928.00A
accession number
247329
catalog number
T12928A
It took Margaret Tormey sixteen years to carefully craft this 86-inch quilt top, dated 1886, and two matching pillow shams.
Description
It took Margaret Tormey sixteen years to carefully craft this 86-inch quilt top, dated 1886, and two matching pillow shams. She included campaign and club ribbons that name New York and Brooklyn; printed silks from the Robinson Company with such motifs as the Statue of Liberty; and brocaded silk pictures to personalize her project. Examples of chromolithograph printing on silk are also found on the quilt top. A multitude of embroidered motifs typical of the era embellish the crazy-patchwork.
Margaret McNamara was born in Ireland (about 1835) and immigrated with her family to the United States about 1848. In 1861 she married Patrick Tormey, who was also born in Ireland (about 1835) and immigrated as a teenager. They lived in Brooklyn, N.Y. Patrick, a Civil War veteran, was keeper of the Brooklyn City Hall for many years. He died in 1900. Margaret died in 1910.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1870-1886
maker
Tormey, Margaret McNamara
ID Number
TE.T12927
accession number
247329
catalog number
T12927
This example of the “Whig’s Defeat” pattern was made in the mid-nineteenth century, probably in Arkansas. The quilter pieced and appliquéd six 25¾-inch blocks, using red and white cottons to make the quilt top.
Description
This example of the “Whig’s Defeat” pattern was made in the mid-nineteenth century, probably in Arkansas. The quilter pieced and appliquéd six 25¾-inch blocks, using red and white cottons to make the quilt top. The blocks were set with 3-inch red and white pieced sashing and a 4¼-inch border.
The pattern, “Whig’s Defeat,” has been linked to the victory of Democrat James Polk, over Whig candidate Henry Clay in the 1844 presidential election. Whether the quilter chose the pattern as a political statement or merely for its design is unknown.
The quilt top was part of a donation to the Smithsonian by G. Ruth McHenry in 1961. It may have been in the family of Jane Winter Price, who made a “Carpenter’s Wheel” quilt that is also in the Collection.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1860-1880
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.E387831
accession number
188128
catalog number
E387831
This crazy-patched parlor throw was made by two sisters who lived in Fall River, Mass. The only information known about them is their last name, Vickery, and that neither sister married.
Description
This crazy-patched parlor throw was made by two sisters who lived in Fall River, Mass. The only information known about them is their last name, Vickery, and that neither sister married. A date of 1883 is embroidered on one silk patch.
Their needlework is an example of the crazy-patch work that was very popular in the United States from 1870 to 1900.
This type of quilt was not necessarily made for bedding, and more often was a project designed to be displayed over a chair or sofa in the parlor. The crazy-patchwork throws were constructed of pieces of silk, satin, velvets, and ribbon, and enhanced with fancy embroidery stitches. A wide range of appliquéd, embroidered, or painted motifs provided additional interest.
This parlor throw consists of many crazy-patched and embroidered parallelograms that were assembled into ten 4 ½-inch vertical strips. The strips were joined and framed by a 2 ½-inch black velvet ribbon border with 1 ¾-inch gold satin ribbon tabs, imposing order on disorderly crazy-patches. Felted appliquéd motifs of flowers and birds adorn several patches. Other patches contain motifs such as fans, butterflies, horseshoes, or spider webs, all frequently found on crazy-patchwork. “Kate Greenaway” figures, another popular motif of the era, are embroidered on several patches. Kate Greenaway (1846-1901) was a popular writer and illustrator of children’s books. Her distinctive style for drawing children was widely copied and appears on various decorative arts of the time.
Commemorative ribbons were often saved and then used for crazy-patchwork. A silk ribbon souvenir bookmark with an image of Lincoln and the inscription: “THE LATE LAMENTED PRESIDENT LINCOLN” (“T. Stevens Coventry” on the back) is prominent on this parlor throw. It is a modified version of a ribbon the Thomas Stevens Company of Coventry, U.K., made for Lincoln’s second inauguration in 1865.
Thomas Stevens revitalized silk ribbon weaving in Coventry by adapting the jacquard weaving process to produce woven pictures. Custom-designed ribbons, badges, bookmarks, etc., might have portraits, text, or local scenes incorporated in the weave. The term “Stevengraph” is often used to describe the products. These were marketed at the time as “Stevens’ Patent Illuminated Book Markers.” Although only part of the ribbon is visible on this throw, similar ribbons are further inscribed: “ASSASSINATED AT WASHINGTON / 14 APRIL 1865 I HAVE SAID NOTHING BUT WHAT I AM WILLING TO LIVE BY, AND IF IT BE THE PLEASURE OF ALMIGHTY GOD, TO DIE BY. (A. LINCOLN)”
While there is little information about the Vickery sisters at this time, their needlework project contains many items of interest. It is a worthwhile contribution to the Collection.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1883
maker
Vickery Sisters
ID Number
TE.T14434
catalog number
T14434
accession number
274324
Blue and white overshot coverlet panel or length. According to the donor, this coverlet was acquired whole during the Civil War by Union officer, Capt. Peter Stamats during General Sherman’s “March to the Sea.” Stamats took this coverlet from an evacuated enemy encampment.
Description
Blue and white overshot coverlet panel or length. According to the donor, this coverlet was acquired whole during the Civil War by Union officer, Capt. Peter Stamats during General Sherman’s “March to the Sea.” Stamats took this coverlet from an evacuated enemy encampment. Stamats is a grandfather of the donor. This blue and white overshot coverlet panel was woven in a pattern similar to “Seven Stars.” When Capt. Stamats returned home, he separated the coverlet into panels and gave them to his three children. The panel measures 93 inches by 26.25 inches. All of the yarns, both the cotton ground warp and weft and the wool supplementary weft yarns are Z-spun singles. It is possible that this coverlet was produced by enslaved weavers.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
19th century
date made
mid 19th century
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T12724
catalog number
T12724.000
accession number
238999
"To be made for the Industrial Exhibition March 23-24 1887. H.H.S. Clara E. Houghton (Please return).” No other information was provided with the donation.
Description
"To be made for the Industrial Exhibition March 23-24 1887. H.H.S. Clara E. Houghton (Please return).” No other information was provided with the donation. A large Industrial Exhibition opened in Minneapolis, Minnesota, in August 1886 and continued to be a huge success through 1887. A Clara Houghton was listed as a teacher in 1876 in Stearns County, Minnesota, (District 101) in the 1915 History of Stearns County, Minnesota, Vol. II by William Bell Mitchell. Probably the quilt was made in Minnesota and exhibited for a short time during the Exhibition.
Floral motifs in pink, brown, and blue, decorate the roller-printed cotton used for the central part of this comforter. Its 7½-inch border is roller-printed cotton with geometric motifs. It is not quilted, but tied every 5 inches with a heavy 3-ply S-twist cotton thread, keeping the cotton filling in place.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1887
maker
Houghton, Clara E.
ID Number
TE.T12725
accession number
238998
catalog number
T12725
This machine pieced and quilted example of the “Tumbling Blocks” pattern was given to the donor’s aunt by her great-great aunt, Julia Ross, in 1878. It is not known whether Julia made the parlor throw.
Description
This machine pieced and quilted example of the “Tumbling Blocks” pattern was given to the donor’s aunt by her great-great aunt, Julia Ross, in 1878. It is not known whether Julia made the parlor throw. She lived in Indianapolis, Indiana.
The “Tumbling Blocks” (also known as “Baby’s Blocks” or “Cube Work”) are 7/8-inch silk diamonds, precisely machine stitched, to create the overall geometric design. The pieced center section is tied with a thick silk thread, but only through the cotton lining and batting. The “Blocks” are framed by an 8-inch machine-quilted blue silk border. The use of various silk fabrics; plain-woven, faille, brocade, damask, woven stripes, and even a few with cut velvet motifs, contribute to the eye-catching quality of this parlor throw.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1875-1880
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T13572
catalog number
T13572
accession number
258907
Fifty-six squares were embroidered, painted, crazy-patched, assembled, and surrounded by a 9-inch plush border. The blocks represent the states and territories of the United States at the time the bedcover was made; some are dated 1883 and 1884.
Description
Fifty-six squares were embroidered, painted, crazy-patched, assembled, and surrounded by a 9-inch plush border. The blocks represent the states and territories of the United States at the time the bedcover was made; some are dated 1883 and 1884. The bedcovering was made for William Wilson Corcoran (1798-1888), whose initials, WWC, are embroidered in the center of the gold silk lining. It hung for many years in the Louise Home, a charitable institution for elderly women in need, which he established in 1870. Among his many other accomplishments is the founding of the Corcoran Gallery of Art in Washington, D.C.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1883-1884
quilter
unknown
ID Number
TE.T13234
accession number
251664
catalog number
T13234
Baskets have long been a popular motif on quilts. Pieced basket patterns became popular in the mid-19th century. This example is in red and green plain-woven cottons. The lining is a roller-printed cotton.
Description
Baskets have long been a popular motif on quilts. Pieced basket patterns became popular in the mid-19th century. This example is in red and green plain-woven cottons. The lining is a roller-printed cotton. The red and green baskets are pieced and appliqued on 7-inch white blocks, alternating with red and green blocks. The border consists of 3-inch bands; red, green and white at the sides; red and white at the top and bottom. The lining, blocks and border strips are machine stitched. It is quilted at 6-7 stitches per inch. The well-planned quilt, in vivid colors, is an interesting variation of the basket quilt.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1875-1885
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T11175
accession number
205529
catalog number
T11175
Booklet: "CRAZY PATCHWORK. ALL THE NEW FANCY STITCHES ILLUSTRATED AND PLAIN INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING THE PATCHWORK. Price, - 25 Cents.
Description
Booklet: "CRAZY PATCHWORK. ALL THE NEW FANCY STITCHES ILLUSTRATED AND PLAIN INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING THE PATCHWORK. Price, - 25 Cents. PUBLISHED BY STRAWBRIDGE & CLOTHIER, Eighth & Market Sts., Philadelphia; COPYRIGHT 1884 BY STARWBRIDGE & CLOTHIER." It contains a page of general instructions and six pages of transfer patterns to be dampened and pressed with a hot iron. These are motifs for embroidery and designs for edging the patches.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1884
maker
Strawbridge & Clothier
ID Number
TE.T13529.00A
catalog number
T13529.00A
This bolster cover, probably from Pennsylvania, consists of nine-patch squares (19" x 51” on the top) with 3 1/2" on across the top and bottom folded to the back and sewn to a 12" plain white cotton piece (provides coverage when bolster inserted).
Description
This bolster cover, probably from Pennsylvania, consists of nine-patch squares (19" x 51” on the top) with 3 1/2" on across the top and bottom folded to the back and sewn to a 12" plain white cotton piece (provides coverage when bolster inserted). Open on one end, the edges turned under and whip stitched. The fabrics used are a variety of printed and plain cottons. The 51” length was made to span the width of bed. This may have been constructed to match a nine –patch bed quilt or may have used left-over blocks from another project.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1840-1880
maker
unknown
ID Number
1989.0712.06
accession number
1989.0712
catalog number
1989.0712.06
In 1945, when Gertrude O. S. (Cleveland) White donated this parlor throw, she wrote: “The silk crazy quilt [parlor throw] was made here at Intervale Manor [Quinebaug, Conn. / Dudley, Mass.] just previous to the year 1888. My initials and the year are on one corner of the lining.
Description
In 1945, when Gertrude O. S. (Cleveland) White donated this parlor throw, she wrote: “The silk crazy quilt [parlor throw] was made here at Intervale Manor [Quinebaug, Conn. / Dudley, Mass.] just previous to the year 1888. My initials and the year are on one corner of the lining. My mother, my sister and myself made it.” Eben Stevens, the donor’s father, was a founder of Intervale Textile Mills in Quinebaug.
Intervale Manor was a large private home in the late 19th century when the two sisters and their mother made this parlor throw. In the 1940s Intervale Manor became a tearoom, operated by a family member and known for its hospitality, exceptionally fine food, spacious grounds, and comfortable accommodations. Presently, what remains of the Intervale Manor estate has been converted to small apartments.
Twelve 14 ½-inch heavily embroidered blocks are framed by a 7 ½-inch border. Set off by a gold silk cord and dark red velvet sashing, each of the crazy-patched blocks is given focus and order. Among the embroidered motifs are birds, dragonflies, cats, a ladder, a shooting star, anchors, butterflies, flowers, and geometric motifs. Various initials are embroidered, including “G.O.S. 1888” on the lining and “C.S.” for the two sisters, Gertrude and Celia. An embroidered “A Merry Xmas” may have indicated the deadline for finishing the parlor throw. The crazy patch blocks are embellished with cross, feather, buttonhole, chain, herringbone, outline, running, satin, and couching stitches. The lining is tan glazed cotton.
Gertrude Olney was born May 1850 and married Eben S. Stevens in 1873. They lived in Dudley, Worchester County, Mass. One daughter, also Gertrude, was born in November 1873. She married Clarence Cleveland in 1894. Another daughter, Celia, who also worked on the parlor throw was born in 1874. In 1887 and 1888 the two teenagers and their mother created a neat and orderly version of the crazy-patchwork that was quite popular at the time.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1888
maker
Stevens, Gertrude Olney
Stevens, Celia
ID Number
TE.T09127
accession number
169638
catalog number
T09127
Elspeth Duigan crafted this fine example of a white-work quilt in 1849. She divided the center into 8 large and 4 small squares each enclosing stuffed floral motifs.
Description
Elspeth Duigan crafted this fine example of a white-work quilt in 1849. She divided the center into 8 large and 4 small squares each enclosing stuffed floral motifs. According to family information, she quilted the initials “E.D.” in one of the corner squares and it incorporates the date “1849” with the edge of the square a “1”, the “E” is also an “8,” the “4” is represented by the “D” (the fourth letter of the alphabet), and “9” is the top part of the “D”. The lining is a very thin cotton layer, and the motif stuffing is cotton and cotton cord. All the motifs are outlined in quilting. The background is quilted with parallel diagonal lines 3/16-inch apart, 13-14 stitches per inch.
Elspeth Duigan was born in Jamestown, Virginia, in 1831. She married Mr. Thompson in Jamestown and later they moved to Lexington, Kentucky. During the Civil War they moved further West to Lexington, Missouri. Elspeth died in 1894.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1849
maker
Duigan, Elspeth
ID Number
1981.0682.01
catalog number
1981.0682.01
accession number
1981.0682
Harriet Hockaday, who exhibited and won prizes for her quilts at various fairs, crafted this unique silk quilt. She combined the precise “Tumbling Blocks” pattern with elaborate embroidery to create the top quilt. A second quilt provides the backing.
Description
Harriet Hockaday, who exhibited and won prizes for her quilts at various fairs, crafted this unique silk quilt. She combined the precise “Tumbling Blocks” pattern with elaborate embroidery to create the top quilt. A second quilt provides the backing. Each one is quilted in a different pattern, 16 stitches per inch. The quilting pattern in one corner of the second quilt incorporates a few Odd Fellows’ symbols. The quilt is finished with a twisted cord along the edges and large tassels at each corner.
Harriet Fry was born May 4, 1831, in Clay County, Missouri. Her mother and father, Susan and Solomon Fry, were prominent longtime settlers in Missouri. In 1850 Harriet married George D. Hockaday (1818-1899) in Clinton Co., Missouri.
They lived in Lathrop, Missouri, and had four children. After the death of her husband in 1899, Harriet moved to Tacoma, Washington, and lived with her son, Eugene. She died in 1902.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1875-1885
associated organization
Independent Order of Odd Fellows
maker
Hockaday, Harriet Fry
ID Number
1989.0731.01
accession number
1989.0731
catalog number
1989.0731.01
Weavers at the Lancaster Carpet, Coverlet, Quilt, and Yarn Manufactory, owned by Philip Schum likely wove this Jacquard, mauve, red, green, and brown, double-cloth coverlet sometime between 1856 and 1880.
Description
Weavers at the Lancaster Carpet, Coverlet, Quilt, and Yarn Manufactory, owned by Philip Schum likely wove this Jacquard, mauve, red, green, and brown, double-cloth coverlet sometime between 1856 and 1880. The centerfield features a large central medallion made up of concentric floral wreaths. Inside these medallions is a large representation of the United States Capitol. The centerfield ground is made up of shaded triangles. Each corner of the centerfield design features a bird surrounded by flowers and above the bird is a boteh, a motif found on Kashmiri shawls and later European copies commonly referred to as Paisley pattern. The four-sided border is composed of meandering floral and foliate designs. There are not traditional cornerblocks on this coverlet, but there are large floral or foliate medallions in each corner that are very similar to those used on signed Philip Schum coverlets. There is fringe along three sides. This coverlet was woven on a broadloom, and possibly a power loom.
Philip Schum (1814-1880) was born in Hesse-Darmstadt, Holy Roman Empire. He immigrated to New York, moving to Lancaster County, PA in approximately 1844. He was not trained as a weaver and there is no evidence that he ever was. What we do know is that Philip Schum was a savvy businessman. He worked first as a "Malt Tramper" in New York, a position presumably linked to brewing and malting of grains. After six months, Philip was able to afford to bring his first wife Ana Margartha Bond (1820-1875) to join him in Pennsylvania. Once reunited, Philip worked as a day laborer, shoemaker, and basket-maker. He purchased a small general store in Lancaster City in 1852. By 1856, he has built his business enough to sell at a profit and purchase the Lancaster Carpet, Coverlet, Quilt, and Yarn Manufactory. Philip's first wife, Anna, passed away sometime before 1879, because in this year, Philip married his second wife, Anna Margaret Koch (1834-1880). The two were tragically killed in a train accident in 1880, when a locomotive stuck their horse and buggy. The New Era, a local Lancaster newspaper titled the article about the incident with the headline, "Death's Harvest." Lancaster Carpet, Coverlet, Quilt, and Yarn Manufactory began with just one or two looms and four men. It grew to four looms and eight men quickly. By 1875, the factory had twenty looms and employed forty men. Philip Schum was no weaver. He was an entrepreneur and businessman who invested in the growing market for household textiles. Philip's estate inventory included a carpet shop, weaving shop, dye house, two stores, and a coal yard. At the time of his death were also listed 390 "Half-wool coverlets." These were valued at $920. In 1878, Philip partnered with his son, John E. Schum to form, Philip Schum, Son, and Co. Another Schum coverlet is in the collections of the MFA-Houston. This particular coverlet was purchased by the donor's grandfather in either Cincinnati or Pittsburg while he was serving as a ship's carpenter along the Ohio River trade routes. The family would later settle in Crawford County, Indiana. This fact also shows that Philip Schum's coverlets, quilts, yarn, etc. were not just being made for the local market. Schum was transporting his goods west and presumably in other directions. He was making for an American market.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1875-1900
late 19th century
1858-1880
maker
Schum, Philip
ID Number
TE.T14561
catalog number
T14561.000
accession number
277986
Daniel Mills, of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Patent model for a machine to sew buttonholes. Patent No. 265,850 Issued October 10 1882. Buttonhole Sewing Machine.Currently not on view
Description
Daniel Mills, of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Patent model for a machine to sew buttonholes. Patent No. 265,850 Issued October 10 1882. Buttonhole Sewing Machine.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
before 1882-10-10
inventor
Mills, Daniel
ID Number
TE.T06598
patent number
265850
catalog number
T.6598
accession number
89797

Our collection database is a work in progress. We may update this record based on further research and review. Learn more about our approach to sharing our collection online.

If you would like to know how you can use content on this page, see the Smithsonian's Terms of Use. If you need to request an image for publication or other use, please visit Rights and Reproductions.