Textiles

Coverlet

The 50,000 objects in the textile collections fall into two main categories: raw fibers, yarns, and fabrics, and machines, tools, and other textile technology. Shawls, coverlets, samplers, laces, linens, synthetics, and other fabrics are part of the first group, along with the 400 quilts in the National Quilt Collection. Some of the Museum's most popular artifacts, such as the Star-Spangled Banner and the gowns of the first ladies, have an obvious textile connection.

The machinery and tools include spinning wheels, sewing machines, thimbles, needlework tools, looms, and an invention that changed the course of American agriculture and society. A model of Eli Whitney's cotton gin, made by the inventor in the early 1800s, shows the workings of a machine that helped make cotton plantations profitable in the South and encouraged the spread of slavery.

Place: Pennsylvania

1949 Emma Mundorff's "Flower Garden" Quilt

Over 5,000 hexagonally shaped patches of plain and printed cottons were used to create the quilt. It is outline-quilted at 10 stitches per inch. It was quilted on a frame made by Emma’s grandfather in 1833.
Description
Over 5,000 hexagonally shaped patches of plain and printed cottons were used to create the quilt. It is outline-quilted at 10 stitches per inch. It was quilted on a frame made by Emma’s grandfather in 1833. The frame was used in the family until it was donated with the quilt in 1988.
Emma Mundorff’s grandfather, Philip Snyder, was born in Bavaria, Germany, in 1801. He and his wife, Maria, immigrated to the U.S. in 1832 and settled near Gettysburg, Pennsylvania. Granddaughter Emma Culp was born in 1869. Her family farm, “Culp’s Hill,” is part of Gettysburg Battlefield history. She married Jacob Mundorff (1863-1915) in 1886.
Emma made quilts for herself, her four children, and eight grandchildren. Her masterpiece, “Flower Garden,” was made in 1949 when she was 80 years old.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1949
maker
Mundorff, Emma Culp
ID Number
1988.0123.01
catalog number
1988.0123.01
accession number
1988.0123

1900 Mary Watson's Baby Carriage Cover

Mary Dickson Watson, quilted and corded the pink silk crepe baby carriage cover to match a pillow cover (1989.0268.03) that she made for her granddaughter, Mary Dickson Wilson, born in 1900. The quilting in the center quatrefoil depicts two rabbits with a butterfly and flowers.
Description
Mary Dickson Watson, quilted and corded the pink silk crepe baby carriage cover to match a pillow cover (1989.0268.03) that she made for her granddaughter, Mary Dickson Wilson, born in 1900. The quilting in the center quatrefoil depicts two rabbits with a butterfly and flowers. Surrounding the center are squares outlined by corded quilting, some containing a flower, some empty. Additionally, a narrow pink silk ribbon is used as a tie in eight places.
Mary Way Dickson was born about 1840. She married Alexander Watson in 1859. Their daughter, Mary Dickson Watson, was born about 1865 in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. She married Adam Wilson in 1897 and it was for their daughter, Mary Dickson Wilson, that the pillow and baby carriage cover were made. On the 1900 census, Mary Dickson Watson, was living with them in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. The recipient of the silk carriage and pillow cover later married Joseph Phipps. The items remained in the family until they were donated to the Collection in 1989.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1900
maker
Watson, Mary Way Dickson
ID Number
1989.0268.02
catalog number
1989.0268.02
accession number
1989.0268

1890 - 1891 Elizabeth Smedley's Silk Quilt

Elizabeth Smedley made this silk quilt for the trousseau of her niece, Elizabeth Webster Smedley. She married Walter Brinton at Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, in 1891. Off white, grey, and tan are used to set off the simple design.
Description
Elizabeth Smedley made this silk quilt for the trousseau of her niece, Elizabeth Webster Smedley. She married Walter Brinton at Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, in 1891. Off white, grey, and tan are used to set off the simple design. Chevron pattern quilting is used for the vertical bands, and the border is quilted in a cable pattern. The whole imparts a quiet elegance typical of Quaker quilts of the 19th century.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1890-1891
maker
Smedley, Elizabeth Webster
ID Number
1984.1059.01
catalog number
1984.1059.01
accession number
1984.1059

1850-1899 Pieced Wool Quilt

Five different striped, plaid, and plain blue, rust, and khaki colored wool and wool-cotton fabrics are utilized to construct the 9½-inch blocks for this utilitarian quilt. Four-patch blocks provide a contrast on each corner.
Description
Five different striped, plaid, and plain blue, rust, and khaki colored wool and wool-cotton fabrics are utilized to construct the 9½-inch blocks for this utilitarian quilt. Four-patch blocks provide a contrast on each corner. One edge has an added cotton strip, apparently a later addition. The quilt is lined with a woven plaid blanket. The initial “E” is embroidered in one corner of the lining. Quilted 5-6 stitches per inch in a 1½-inch diagonal grid pattern.
This pieced wool quilt with a wool blanket lining is an example of a 19th century bed covering specifically made for warmth.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1850-1899
maker
unknown
ID Number
1986.0675.01
catalog number
1986.0675.01
accession number
1986.0675

1890 - 1900 Mary Watson's "Biscuit" Parlor Throw

This unfinished parlor throw or quilt was made in Pittsburg, Pennsylvania, by Mary Dickson Watson (born about 1840). The raised or “biscuit” patchwork was done by basting 3 ½” silk squares to 2 ½” cotton squares with a pleat at the center of each side.
Description
This unfinished parlor throw or quilt was made in Pittsburg, Pennsylvania, by Mary Dickson Watson (born about 1840). The raised or “biscuit” patchwork was done by basting 3 ½” silk squares to 2 ½” cotton squares with a pleat at the center of each side. Cotton batting was put under the center of each square. The covered squares were then machine-stitched together to make this colorful top.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1890-1900
maker
Watson, Mary Way Dickson
ID Number
1989.0268.01
catalog number
1989.0268.01
accession number
1989.0268

1843 Hannah Nicholson's Album Quilt

Members of the Society of Friends, or Quakers, presented Hannah C. Nicholson with this album quilt made in 1843. She was 19 years old at the time and would shortly marry Howell Grave in 1845.
Description
Members of the Society of Friends, or Quakers, presented Hannah C. Nicholson with this album quilt made in 1843. She was 19 years old at the time and would shortly marry Howell Grave in 1845. A descendent wrote at the time of donation: “The quilt has been carefully tended since that time and regarded as an heirloom by our family.”
In the mid-nineteenth century, album quilts with inscriptions and signatures were often made to celebrate an important event, and provide a textile record of friends and family. The forty-one appliquéd blocks and one inked block on this quilt are inscribed with names, dates, and places. Names of Hannah’s paternal relatives, Nicholson, Miller, Biddle, and Parrish, predominate.
The quilt’s inscriptions indicate that some blocks were contributed by women in the name of relatives or young children, e.g. “for her brother” or “for her daughter.” When the block was for a son or daughter, the age was also added. The dates are given in the style of month, date and year with many of them just “8 Mo 1843.” Most of the places inked on the blocks are from the Philadelphia area, with a few from New Jersey (Woodbury, Bordentown, Pleasant Hill, and Salem). Although Hannah was born and lived in Indiana, her father was from New Jersey.
The quilt is composed of forty-nine pieced and appliquéd blocks. The blocks are made with glazed, unglazed, and roller-printed cottons. These were joined by a 2 ½-inch glazed printed-stripe sashing. The same printed cotton is used for the border, providing a cohesive grid-like framework for the blocks. The quilting pattern is an overall diagonal grid, quilted 8 or 9 stitches per inch.
Hannah C. Nicholson was born in Indiana on November 19, 1824, to John and Esther Nicholson. On August 14, 1845 Hannah married Howell Grave (1818-1894) in Wayne County, Indiana. Howell’s ancestors were among the earliest settlers of Indiana. His parents and grandparents arrived in the same year Indiana achieved statehood, 1816, and he was born there in 1818.
Howell and Hannah farmed in Wayne County and raised four children, three girls (Esther, Emma, and Josephine) and a son (Vernon). In the early 1860s they moved to Richmond, Indiana, where for twenty years Howell was one of the principal iron merchants in the city. By the mid-1880s he was in the insurance and real estate businesses. Two of their daughters are listed as teachers on the 1870 census, while Vernon continued to farm. After Hannah was widowed in 1894, she lived with her daughter and son-in-law in Wayne, Indiana. She died there on February 13, 1912, and is buried in the Earlham Cemetery Richmond, Indiana.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1843
maker
unknown
ID Number
1986.0657.01
catalog number
1986.0657.01
accession number
1986.0657

1890-1900 Miniature Quilt

This miniature quilt may have been a doll’s quilt, a “first” quilt, or a display on a model quilting frame. Possibly made in Pennsylvania, it consists of twelve 1 to 1-and-1/2-inch blocks in the "Four-patch" pattern.
Description
This miniature quilt may have been a doll’s quilt, a “first” quilt, or a display on a model quilting frame. Possibly made in Pennsylvania, it consists of twelve 1 to 1-and-1/2-inch blocks in the "Four-patch" pattern. Quilted in a chevron pattern, 3-4 stitches per inch.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1890-1900
maker
unknown
ID Number
1995.0011.08
accession number
1995.0011
catalog number
1995.0011.08

1849 Eighteen Appliqued Quilt Blocks

Collection consists of 18 appliqued quilt blocks. Many of which have inscriptions. The blocks are 9 1/2 -10" square. Each block is individually described below:A - Friendship Block. Fleur de Lis pattern with central open space.
Description
Collection consists of 18 appliqued quilt blocks. Many of which have inscriptions. The blocks are 9 1/2 -10" square. Each block is individually described below:
A - Friendship Block. Fleur de Lis pattern with central open space. Edges are turned under by whipstitching, 14 stitches per inch. Stitched to block is inked paper inscribed: "Hannah Hall".
B - Friendship Block. Stylized bows with a small, sawtooth-edged central open space. Background cotton is glazed. Raw edges are secured with buttonhose stitch, 30 per inch. Stitched ot block is paper inscribed in ink, "Miss Mary Warthman".
C - Friendship Block. FLeur de Lis pattern with central open space. Edges aare turned under and whistitched, 14 per inch. Center open space is stamped with floral garland surrounding the name, "Emmaline Evans".
D - Friendship Block. Fleur de Lis pattern with central open space. Edges are turned under and whipstitched, 12 per inch. Stitched to block is inked paper inscribed "Jane Hall, Philadelphia".
E - Friendship Block. Fleur de Lis pattern with central open space. Edges are turned under and whipstitched, 12 per inch. Stitched to block is inked paper inscribed "Mary Ann Dickinson, Du cannon, Pa."
F - Friendship Block. Fleur de Lis pattern with central open space. Edges are turned under and whiipstitched, 12 per inch.
G - Friendship Block. Fleur de Lis pattern with step outlined, on center square inscribed with the inked name, "Lydia Ann Warner" edges are turned under and whipstitched, 13 per inch.
H - Friendship BLock. Fleur de Lis pattern with central open space. Raw edges are secured with button hole stitch, 18 per inch. Stitched to block is inked paper inscribed: "May sorrow never on thee come/Mall thy joys increse/Unnumbered pleasures round thee bloom/And everlasting peace. Copied for Sarah H. Dickinson April 22nd 1849".
I - Friendship Block Fleur de Lis Pattern with central opeen space. Raw edges are secured with button stitch, 24 per inch. Stitched to block is inked paper inscribed, "Hannah H. Dickinson, Philadelphia".
J - Friendship Block. Fleur de Lis Pattern with central open space. Edges are turned under and whipstitched, 14 per inch. Signed in ink on back, "Louise A. (? indecipherable)"/
K - Friendship Block. Unfinished. Leaf pattern with central open space.
L - Honey Bee Block. Central solid square with 3 petal shapes on each corner. Ground fabric of glazed cotton is pieced. Edges of applique are turned under and whipstitched, 12 per inch.
M - Star & Leaf Block. Eight pointed central star with square open space in center surrounded by single and multiple leaf forms. Edges are turned under and finely whipstitched, 18 per inch.
N - Heart Block. Center heart with open space in center, four outward pointing heart shapes at each corner. edges are turned under and finely whipstitched, 20 per inch. Stitched to block is inked paper inscribed, "Lydia P. Wood, Mount Holly".
O - Clematis Block. Central four petaled form with four single petal shapes in each corner. Raw edges secured with button hole stitch, 30 per inch. Stitched to block is inked paper inscribed, "Sarah Hampton".
P - Star Block. Large single five-pointed center star with four smaller stars, one in each corner. Raw edges secured with button hole stitch, 32 per inch. Stitched to block is inked paper inscribed, "Mary Hampton".
Q - Garland of leaves and berries. Stitched to block are two pieces of inked paper inscribed, "John Hampton" and "John A. Hampton".
R - Chintz Applique Block. Motif of flower, buds, leaves and stem cut out of a printed cotton and appliqued to white cotton, with edges turned under using fine whipsti
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1849
ID Number
1992.0128.01A-R
accession number
1992.0128
catalog number
1992.0128.01A-R

Phoebe E. Downing's Sampler

Three block alphabets of 26 letters and numbers to 0. Five scattered eyelet stitches and short row of tent and reverse tent. Initials "ID," "ED," MSD," "PED," "RID," and "SWD." Border of simple geometric band on top and two sides. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground.
Description
Three block alphabets of 26 letters and numbers to 0. Five scattered eyelet stitches and short row of tent and reverse tent. Initials "ID," "ED," MSD," "PED," "RID," and "SWD." Border of simple geometric band on top and two sides. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground. STITCHES: cross, rice, eyelet, crosslet, tent. THREAD COUNT: warp 23, weft 28/in.
Inscription:
"Phebe E 18 16 Downing"
Background:
Phoebe was born on December 23, 1807, to Joseph and Elizabeth Webster Downing in Downingtown, Pennsylvania. Since the letters "I" and "J" were interchangeable, the initials "ID" were for her father, "ED" for her mother, "MSD" for her sister Mary S., "PED" for Phoebe, "RID" for brother Richard J., and "SWD" for sister Sarah W. An older brother Wesley R. died before the sampler was made, and another sister Thomazine was born after the sampler was made. Phoebe did not marry and died on August 20, 1849.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1816
maker
Downing, Phoebe E.
ID Number
TE.T17754
catalog number
T17754
accession number
316364

Sarah Yard's Sampler

One block alphabet of 26 letters; numbers to 10. Alphabet and numbers colored in groups of two or three. Each word in inscription and each set of initials worked in different color. Flower basket, bird, eight-pointed star, and several flowering plants.
Description
One block alphabet of 26 letters; numbers to 10. Alphabet and numbers colored in groups of two or three. Each word in inscription and each set of initials worked in different color. Flower basket, bird, eight-pointed star, and several flowering plants. Border of simple geometric vine-and-leaf on top and two sides. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground. STITCHES: cross. THREAD COUNT: warp 24, weft 29/in.
Inscription:
"SARAH YARD IN H
ER SEVENTH YEAR
Y SM MAY
J S MAY GMY JY"
Background:
Sarah was born in 1809 to John and Sarah McKimson Yard in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. She married Alexander Cummings in 1836, and they had six children—Mary B., Alfred, Sarah Ellen, Charles Thomas, Alexander M., and John. Alexander was a general in the Union Army during the Civil War, and then governor of the Colorado Territory from 1865 to 1867. He died in Canada, but was buried in Philadelphia. Sarah died in Washington, D.C., on August 28, 1887, and is also buried in Philadelphia. The initials on her sampler may be family members, father, mother, grandfather, grandmother Mary Ann Yard, sister Mary Ann Yard, brother George Mickerson Yard, and brother John Yard.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1815-1816
maker
Yard, Sarah
ID Number
TE.H14388
catalog number
H14388
accession number
55589

"Bishop" dress silk, A "Martine" design by Duplan

A "Martine" silk by the Duplan Silk Company of Hazleton, PA. This design titled "Bishop", on quality "Ruisselet" a warp-faced weave with much thicker weft yarns than warp yarns, having a crinkled texture.
Description
A "Martine" silk by the Duplan Silk Company of Hazleton, PA. This design titled "Bishop", on quality "Ruisselet" a warp-faced weave with much thicker weft yarns than warp yarns, having a crinkled texture. Printed design of scattered stylized scrolls and flowers on a dark blue ground. This example was cylinder printed. Duplan's publicity touts this series of silk dress fabrics as"Woven, printed, and finished in the US, sold and delivered in Paris and London. Designs by the Martine School of Decorative Art, Paris, France. Directed, owned, and personally supervised by Mr. Paul Poiret, who is universally acknowledged as the greatest creator of women's fashions of the present century." In the press these were called "Futurist Flowers", and there were supposedly 8 designs in total that Duplan licensed from Poiret. The NMAH Textiles collection holds six samples, four designs, two designs in two colorways on two different ground cloths.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1914
maker
Duplan Silk Corporation
designer
Poiret, Paul
ID Number
TE.T01219
accession number
56671
catalog number
T01219.000

Elizabeth Marx's Sampler

Verse and two wide floral crossbands, both arcaded, one with roses and one with strawberries and forget-me-nots. Two eight-pointed stars. Black guidelines under flowers in rose crossband. Center section framed in band of sawtooth.
Description
Verse and two wide floral crossbands, both arcaded, one with roses and one with strawberries and forget-me-nots. Two eight-pointed stars. Black guidelines under flowers in rose crossband. Center section framed in band of sawtooth. Border of geometric flowering vine with strawberries and pinks, and an outer row of dentil pattern on all four sides. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground. STITCHES: cross, straight, Algerian eye, satin, surface satin, encroaching satin, stem, queen, outline. THREAD COUNT: warp 40, weft 38/in.
Inscriptions:
"Here In This Garden Here Below
Water Me That I May Grow
And When All Grace To Me Is Given
Then Transplant Me Into Heaven
Elizabeth Marx Her Work 1802"
Background:
This is probably the Elizabeth born on March 20, 1790, to George and Elizabeth Marx in Reading, Pennsylvania. According to the records from the Trinity Lutheran Church in Reading, she married Christian Brobst on September 6, 1812. She died June 20, 1847 and is buried at the Union/West End Cemetery in Allentown, Lehigh, PA.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1802
maker
Marx, Elizabeth
ID Number
TE.T11651
catalog number
T11651.000
accession number
222389

lace, veil

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1810-1827
1810-1826
ID Number
TE.T16342
catalog number
T16342.000
accession number
298683

"Bishop" dress silk, A "Martine" design by Duplan

A "Martine" silk by the Duplan Silk Company of Hazleton, PA. This design titled "Bishop", on quality "Fleur de Jeunesse" a fine soft taffeta. Printed design of scattered stylized scrolls and flowers in golden brown, bright pink, and light green on an off white ground.
Description
A "Martine" silk by the Duplan Silk Company of Hazleton, PA. This design titled "Bishop", on quality "Fleur de Jeunesse" a fine soft taffeta. Printed design of scattered stylized scrolls and flowers in golden brown, bright pink, and light green on an off white ground. This example was cylinder printed. Duplan's publicity touts this series of silk dress fabrics as "Woven, printed, and finished in the US, sold and delivered in Paris and London. Designs by the Martine School of Decorative Art, Paris, France. Directed, owned, and personally supervised by Mr. Paul Poiret, who is universally acknowledged as the greatest creator of women's fashions of the present century." In the press these were called "Futurist Flowers, and there supposedly 8 designs in total that Duplan licensed from Poiret. NMAH Textiles department holds six samples, of four designs, two of the designs in two colorways on two different ground cloths.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1914
maker
Duplan Silk Corporation
designer
Poiret, Paul
ID Number
TE.T01222
accession number
56671
catalog number
T01222.000

1838 Yerkes's Patent Model of a Spindle and Flyer

Spindle and Flyer Patent ModelPatent No. 781, issued June 12, 1838Richard E.
Description
Spindle and Flyer Patent Model
Patent No. 781, issued June 12, 1838
Richard E. Yerkes of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
According to his patent specification, Yerkes patented “the revolving arrangement and combination of the sliding shaft, with the broach, or with the spool, for the purpose of removing and renewing the latter . . . .” The action of the sliding shaft enabled the operator to remove and change the spool when the spring was pressed down. In addition, he patented the ring in combination with the flyers that distributed the yarn on the spool. Yerkes intended his improvements to be used on machines for spinning cotton and other fibers.
Location
Currently not on view
model constructed
before 1838-06-12
patent date
1838-06-12
inventor
Yerkes, Richard E.
ID Number
TE.T11420.080
catalog number
T11420.080
accession number
89797
patent number
781

1800 - 1810 Rachel Woodrow's Whitework Quilt

According to family information, Rachel Woodrow crafted this example of a quilted and stuffed-work bedcover. Outlining the center is a meandering vine with baskets of flowers and vines. This is framed by a band of large quilted and stuffed diamonds.
Description
According to family information, Rachel Woodrow crafted this example of a quilted and stuffed-work bedcover. Outlining the center is a meandering vine with baskets of flowers and vines. This is framed by a band of large quilted and stuffed diamonds. A plain white border of diagonal grid quilting, 9 stitches per inch, completes the counterpane.
Little is known of Rachel Woodrow. Donor information says that she died in 1812 in the area of Scottdale, Pennsylvania, and is buried in that cemetery. The family information claims a relationship to Woodrow Wilson. Rachel’s legacy is a finely executed needlework example of the early 19th century.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1800-1810
maker
Woodward, Rachel
ID Number
TE.T18281
catalog number
T18281
accession number
1977.0106

attr. to Lancaster Carpet, Coverlet, Quilt, and Yarn Manufactory; coverlet; Jacquard; double-cloth; 1858-1876; Pennsylvania

Weavers at the Lancaster Carpet, Coverlet, Quilt, and Yarn Manufactory, owned by Philip Schum, likely wove this Jacquard, purple and white, double-cloth coverlet sometime between 1856 and 1880.
Description
Weavers at the Lancaster Carpet, Coverlet, Quilt, and Yarn Manufactory, owned by Philip Schum, likely wove this Jacquard, purple and white, double-cloth coverlet sometime between 1856 and 1880. The center field features a small, lobed medallion with tulips surrounded by a field of eight-pointed stars. Around this is an elaborate border created by a point repeat of a pattern consisting of a personified Columbia waving an American flag. A banderole proclaims, “Hail Columbia,” and four shielded eagles decorate each corner. There are also flowers, leaves, pears, and swag garland designs tying the border figures together into a cohesive design. There is fringe along three sides. This coverlet was woven on a broadloom, and possibly a power loom and measures 76 inches by 83 inches.
Philip Schum (1814-1880) was born in Hesse-Darmstadt, Holy Roman Empire. He immigrated to New York, moving to Lancaster County, PA in approximately 1844. He was not trained as a weaver and there is no evidence that he ever was. What we do know is that Philip Schum was a savvy businessman. He worked first as a "Malt Tramper" in New York, a position presumably linked to brewing and malting of grains. After six months, Philip was able to afford to bring his first wife Ana Margartha Bond (1820-1875) to join him in Pennsylvania. Once reunited, Philip worked as a day laborer, shoemaker, and basket-maker. He purchased a small general store in Lancaster City in 1852. By 1856, he has built his business enough to sell at a profit and purchase the Lancaster Carpet, Coverlet, Quilt, and Yarn Manufactory. Philip's first wife, Anna, passed away sometime before 1879, because in this year, Philip married his second wife, Anna Margaret Koch (1834-1880). The two were tragically killed in a train accident in 1880, when a locomotive stuck their horse and buggy. The New Era, a local Lancaster newspaper titled the article about the incident with the headline, "Death's Harvest." Lancaster Carpet, Coverlet, Quilt, and Yarn Manufactory began with just one or two looms and four men. It grew to four looms and eight men quickly. By 1875, the factory had twenty looms and employed forty men. Philip Schum was no weaver. He was an entrepreneur and businessman who invested in the growing market for household textiles. Philip's estate inventory included a carpet shop, weaving shop, dye house, two stores, and a coal yard. At the time of his death were also listed 390 "Half-wool coverlets." These were valued at $920. In 1878, Philip partnered with his son, John E. Schum to form, Philip Schum, Son, and Co. Another Schum coverlet is in the collections of the MFA-Houston. This particular coverlet was purchased by the donor's grandfather in either Cincinnati or Pittsburg while he was serving as a ship's carpenter along the Ohio River trade routes. The family would later settle in Crawford County, Indiana. This fact also shows that Philip Schum's coverlets, quilts, yarn, etc. were not just being made for the local market. Schum was transporting his goods west and presumably in other directions. He was making for an American market.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
very late 19th century--time of the Columbian Expo
date made
c. 1858-1876
maker
Schum, Philip
ID Number
TE.T10304
catalog number
T10304.000
accession number
183488

1820 Jane Torrence's Quilted and Stuffed Counterpane

Jane Paull Torrence made this quilted and stuffed counterpane about the time of her marriage in 1820 to William Ludlam Miller (1793-1867). Jane was born in Pennsylvania in 1796 or 1797. She and William lived in Port Perry, Pennsylvania and had nine children.
Description
Jane Paull Torrence made this quilted and stuffed counterpane about the time of her marriage in 1820 to William Ludlam Miller (1793-1867). Jane was born in Pennsylvania in 1796 or 1797. She and William lived in Port Perry, Pennsylvania and had nine children. Jane died in 1862 or 1863.
The quilted and stuffed counterpane has a center panel, 34 inches square, with stylized flowers and leaves in a four-lobed figure. The panel is surrounded by a 6-1/4-inch band of leaves and two 1-1/2-inch feathered bands. A 22-inch border, containing a meandering vine bearing grapes and flowers, frames the center with a narrow band of geometric figures along the edges. The counterpane has a white cotton lining and cotton filling. The 3-dimensional motifs are stuffed with cotton and cotton roving and outline quilted. The background is quilted with double diagonal grid and parallel diagonal lines patterns, ¼-inch apart. The quilting is 12 stitches per inch. There is no separate binding, the back is brought to the front and whip stitched. The stuffed work floral motifs and overall design of the all-white counterpane, is characteristic of many early 19th-century bedcovers.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1820
1810-1830
maker
Torrence, Jane Paull
ID Number
TE.T13405
accession number
254071
catalog number
T13405

"Pekin" dress silk, A "Martine" design by Duplan

A "Martine" silk by the Duplan Silk Company of Hazleton, PA. This design titled "Pekin", on quality "Crepe Chinois", a lightweight plain weave silk with slubbed weft yarns like a shantung.
Description
A "Martine" silk by the Duplan Silk Company of Hazleton, PA. This design titled "Pekin", on quality "Crepe Chinois", a lightweight plain weave silk with slubbed weft yarns like a shantung. Printed design of wide and narrow irregular stripes in brown, blue, olive green, and orange. This example was cylinder printed. Duplan's publicity touts this series of silk dress fabrics as "Woven, printed, and finished in the US, sold and delivered in Paris and London. Designs by the Martine School of Decorative Art, Paris, France. Directed, owned, and personally supervised by Mr. Paul Poiret, who is universally acknowledged as the greatest creator of women's fashions of the present century." In the press these were called "Futurist Flowers", and there were supposedly 8 designs in total that Duplan licensed from Poiret. The NMAH Textiles collection holds six samples, four designs, two designs in two colorways on two different ground cloths.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1914
maker
Duplan Silk Corporation
designer
Poiret, Paul
ID Number
TE.T01220
accession number
56671
catalog number
T01220.000

1851 Ellen Calder's Presentation Quilt

Harrisburg, Pennsylvania friends of Ellen Winebrenner Calder presented this quilt to her in 1851. It was a farewell present for Ellen, a young bride, who was accompanying her husband, Rev. James K. Calder to Fuh-Chua, China.
Description
Harrisburg, Pennsylvania friends of Ellen Winebrenner Calder presented this quilt to her in 1851. It was a farewell present for Ellen, a young bride, who was accompanying her husband, Rev. James K. Calder to Fuh-Chua, China. They worked under difficult circumstances in China for two years as missionaries for the Methodist Episcopal Church before returning to the United States. Ellen Calder, born in 1824, died in 1858 at Shippensburg, Pennsylvania. She is buried in the Harrisburg Cemetery.
This cotton quilt consists of 36 blocks appliquéd with a fleur-de-lis motif often used by religious groups for presentation pieces. In the center circle of each block is penned a name and on many the place and date as well. Also penned on the quilt are a few pertinent religious inscriptions such as:
"When on the bounding wave,
Or in a Heathen land,
May God in Mercy Save,
And guide you by the hand.
And when your labors cease,
And you no more must roam,
May you return in peace,
To your beloved home."
In the mid nineteenth century the album or autograph quilt was a popular token of affection, often presented to someone leaving the community for a long journey or a new home far away.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1851
user
Calder, Ellen Winebrenner
quilters
unknown
ID Number
TE.T08114
accession number
144655
catalog number
T08114

1876 Emma St. Clair Whitney's Pieced Silk Quilt

“1876 Emma St. Clair Whitney Centennial” is printed on the center rosette of this silk quilt. Two-inch plain colored silk hexagons are pieced into rosettes, each separated by black hexagons. An 8-inch silk border is quilted, 8 stitches per inch, with a 5-banded cable pattern.
Description
“1876 Emma St. Clair Whitney Centennial” is printed on the center rosette of this silk quilt. Two-inch plain colored silk hexagons are pieced into rosettes, each separated by black hexagons. An 8-inch silk border is quilted, 8 stitches per inch, with a 5-banded cable pattern. The silk lining is hand-quilted in a shell pattern in the center with a 4-banded cable pattern on the border.
Emma St. Clair Nichols was born on September 26, 1840 in Pottsville, Pennsylvania. She married William Whitney (1823-1899) on October 2, 1862. He was a lawyer and Civil War veteran. They raised four children. In 1891 Emma published a book, Michael Hillegas and his Descendants, a memoir of her great grandfather. Michael Hillegas (1729-1804) was the First Treasurer of the United States. In the forward she mentioned that, “. . . [it] is hoped that the facts and materials here collected and classified, will be found serviceable to some later writer. . .” Emma died April 4, 1895. Her 1876 Centennial silk quilt is her legacy.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1876
maker
Whitney, Emma St. Clair
ID Number
TE.T17755.000
catalog number
T17755.000
accession number
316364

"Lizeron" dress silk, A "Martine" design by Duplan

A "Martine" silk by the Duplan Silk Company of Hazleton, PA. This design titled "Lizeron", on charmeuse, a lightweight satin weave silk. Printed design of stylized leaves and flowers in green, yellow with off white on a black ground. This example was hand block-printed.
Description
A "Martine" silk by the Duplan Silk Company of Hazleton, PA. This design titled "Lizeron", on charmeuse, a lightweight satin weave silk. Printed design of stylized leaves and flowers in green, yellow with off white on a black ground. This example was hand block-printed. Duplan's publicity touts this series of silk dress fabrics as "Woven, printed, and finished in the US, sold and delivered in Paris and London. Designs by the Martine School of Decorative Art, Paris, France. Directed, owned, and personally supervised by Mr. Paul Poiret, who is universally acknowledged as the greatest creator of women's fashions of the present century." In the press these were called "Futurist Flowers", and there were supposedly 8 designs in total that Duplan licensed from Poiret. The NMAH Textiles collection holds six samples, four designs, two designs in two colorways on two different ground cloths. Duplan publicity also says that "Lizeron" was, "so far as we know, the first hand block design ever printed by hand in the United States, on a heavy quality of silks. The yardage possible to produce per day, printed by hand by one man, in a design of the character, is only about 1/20th of what a silk printing machine can produce in the same length of time."
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1914
maker
Duplan Silk Corporation
designer
Poiret, Paul
ID Number
TE.T01223
accession number
56671
catalog number
T01223.000

Stewart Silk Co Blue Crepe de Chine Fabric sample; 1914

Stewart Silk Co Blue Crepe de Chine Fabric sample. Two edges are pinked, one side includes the selvedge, and the other is frayed. One metal staple on one edge with remainder of paper tag, no writing. Blue color.
Description
Stewart Silk Co Blue Crepe de Chine Fabric sample. Two edges are pinked, one side includes the selvedge, and the other is frayed. One metal staple on one edge with remainder of paper tag, no writing. Blue color. Some staining, perhaps from light exposure, and some fold creases.
John Wood Stewart was born in 1856 in New York City. In 1897 he acquired an interest in the Phillipsburg Silk Mill Company, which he later took over, expanding into South Easton, Pennsylvania, with a new mill and the addition of the Eastern Throwing Company, a throwing mill. The Perfect Dyeing and Finishing Company was also shortly added, and these three eventually incorporated to create the Stewart Silk Company. The company's mills were in Pennsylvania, the sales offices in New York City. John Stewart died in 1922. Commercial Factors Company purchased the Stewart Silk Mills in 1930.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1914
maker
Stewart Silk Company
ID Number
TE.T01298.000
accession number
56748
catalog number
T01298.000

Rachel Kester's Sampler

Block alphabet no "J." Each letter worked in different color. Letters in row, initials for family members "HKAKR / PKAKMKSKBKAKBWW," "R" that should go with last "W" out of order. Each pair of letters worked in different color, six sets being worked in black.
Description
Block alphabet no "J." Each letter worked in different color. Letters in row, initials for family members "HKAKR / PKAKMKSKBKAKBWW," "R" that should go with last "W" out of order. Each pair of letters worked in different color, six sets being worked in black. These rows separated by simple crossbands. In center section, flanking one of verses, two large flowers, and initials "SK," "SK," "SK," "IK," "IW," and "RW" split with one on each side of flower. Below verse, wide crossband with flowers and strawberries. Another wide crossband at bottom of sampler, with two large flowers and urn of flowers. Border of geometric vine with strawberries and carnations on all four sides. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground. STITCHES: cross, satin, tent, eyelet, stem. THREAD COUNT: warp 28, weft 30/in.
Inscriptions:
"Love the Lord
And he will be
A tender father
Unto the
The lof[s]s of treaf[s]uref[s] much
The lof[s]s of truth is more
The lof[s]s of Chrif[s]t if[s] f[s]uch
Af[s] no one can ref[s]tore
The lot of f[s]aintf[s] have alway been
Affliction here and f[s]cornf[s]
And he that was the bef[s]t of men
Waf[s] mock and crown with thornf[s]
Rachel Kester her samPler
made in the 14th year of her age
1788 H T"
Background:
Rachel was born on June 16, 1774, to Paul and Anna Webster Kester in Kingwood, New Jersey. The family moved to Millville, Pennsylvania, in 1780. There Rachel married Chandlee Eves on January 5, 1797, and they had ten children—Anna, Elizabeth, Yeatman, John K., George Fox, Benjamin, Charles, Sarah, Rachel, and Chandlee. Rachel died in Pennsylvania on May 22, 1835, and her husband died on December 30, 1836. The initials "HT" following the date in the inscription could be those of a teacher.
The first set of initials are her grandparents Heranus and Anne Kester; her parents Paul and Anna Kester; her siblings Mary, Sarah, Benjamin, and Arnold Kester; and her grandparents Benjamin and Rachel Webster. It is not clear to whom the other initials belong.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1788
maker
Kester, Rachel
ID Number
TE.T16007
catalog number
T16007
accession number
307850

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