Textiles

The 50,000 objects in the textile collections fall into two main categories: raw fibers, yarns, and fabrics, and machines, tools, and other textile technology. Shawls, coverlets, samplers, laces, linens, synthetics, and other fabrics are part of the first group, along with the 400 quilts in the National Quilt Collection. Some of the Museum's most popular artifacts, such as the Star-Spangled Banner and the gowns of the first ladies, have an obvious textile connection.

The machinery and tools include spinning wheels, sewing machines, thimbles, needlework tools, looms, and an invention that changed the course of American agriculture and society. A model of Eli Whitney's cotton gin, made by the inventor in the early 1800s, shows the workings of a machine that helped make cotton plantations profitable in the South and encouraged the spread of slavery.

Elizabeth Coates Wileman made this pieced and appliquéd child's quilt in the mid-nineteenth century while living in Ohio. Sixteen blocks are pieced of red, green, yellow and white printed cottons in a Carpenter's Wheel pattern.
Description
Elizabeth Coates Wileman made this pieced and appliquéd child's quilt in the mid-nineteenth century while living in Ohio. Sixteen blocks are pieced of red, green, yellow and white printed cottons in a Carpenter's Wheel pattern. These blocks are set diagonally with blue and white printed cotton squares and triangles. Two appliquéd sawtooth edges, one red and one green, complete the 5½-inch border.
Esther Coates, a Quaker, was born in Coatesville, Pennsylvania in 1817. She married Abram G. Wileman in 1844 in Massillon, Ohio, they divorced in 1858. They had two children Flora born in 1850, who died as a young child and Erasmus Darwin born in 1854. The quilt was probably made for Flora. Abram G. Wileman, a physician and war hero, served in the Civil War and was killed in 1863. Esther studied medicine at Penn Medical University in Philadelphia and received her degree in 1855. She practiced medicine in New Jersey. Esther died in 1873 and is buried in the Drumore Friends Cemetery in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania. The quilt was donated to the Museum in 1964 by Dr. Lorin E. Kerr, Jr. the great grandson of Esther.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1850-1860
quilter
Wileman, Esther Coates
ID Number
TE.T13472
accession number
254704
catalog number
T13472
This collar is cluny bobbin lace with raised and rolled tallies embellishing the floral shapes. It measures 13 inches around the neck, so might have been made for a child. It is one inch wide at the center, while the points are three inches wide.
Description
This collar is cluny bobbin lace with raised and rolled tallies embellishing the floral shapes. It measures 13 inches around the neck, so might have been made for a child. It is one inch wide at the center, while the points are three inches wide. The collection includes a matching set of cuffs.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1850-1865
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T13173
catalog number
T13174
accession number
250794
Susan Ann Camp Coe, great-grandmother of the donor, constructed this mid-19th century white-work quilted counterpane. The center, a six-pointed star is framed by a scalloped circle surrounded by floral motifs and a flowering vine arranged in scallops.
Description
Susan Ann Camp Coe, great-grandmother of the donor, constructed this mid-19th century white-work quilted counterpane. The center, a six-pointed star is framed by a scalloped circle surrounded by floral motifs and a flowering vine arranged in scallops. Another flowering vine is arranged in reverse scallops. Bunches of grapes and leaves adorn the border. All floral motifs and scallops are quilted, with the background quilted in a diagonal grid pattern. The quilting is 6-7 stitches per inch. A straight strip of white cotton is seamed to the front and whipped to the lining for the binding.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1840-1860
1840-1850
maker
Coe, Susan Ann Camp
ID Number
TE.T07451
accession number
131349
catalog number
T07451
This hand made triangular black silk shawl is made in the Chantilly bobbin lace technique and was purchased in Paris in about 1860. Elaborate floral motifs, including roses and leafy stems, decorate this large shawl.Currently not on view
Description
This hand made triangular black silk shawl is made in the Chantilly bobbin lace technique and was purchased in Paris in about 1860. Elaborate floral motifs, including roses and leafy stems, decorate this large shawl.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1850-1860
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T13741
catalog number
T13741
accession number
261642
Eight-inch square blocks pieced in a “Four-patch” variation are arranged to form diagonal chains. A variety of roller printed cottons (geometrics and florals) and woven stripes, checks, and plaids are represented on the pieced blocks.
Description
Eight-inch square blocks pieced in a “Four-patch” variation are arranged to form diagonal chains. A variety of roller printed cottons (geometrics and florals) and woven stripes, checks, and plaids are represented on the pieced blocks. The pieced blocks alternate with 8-inch squares of the same roller-printed cotton. The quilt is cotton filled, and lined with a plain-woven cotton. It is bound with ½-inch (finished) straight strips of 2 different roller-printed cottons folded over the edge, seamed to the front, and sewn to the lining with a running stitch. The two corner cutouts with 4-inch diagonal slashes to accommodate bedposts, are typical of many nineteenth century quilts.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1850-1860
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T17349.000
catalog number
T17349.000
accession number
321804
This variation of the "Feathered Star" pattern is pieced of plain red and roller printed green-on-black cottons. Plain white ground is cut away on underside. Inscribed in ink: "M J. Harper". Part of a series of blocks intended for a quilt.Currently not on view
Description
This variation of the "Feathered Star" pattern is pieced of plain red and roller printed green-on-black cottons. Plain white ground is cut away on underside. Inscribed in ink: "M J. Harper". Part of a series of blocks intended for a quilt.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1840-1860
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.E387833.00H
accession number
188128
catalog number
E387833H
Mrs. Gilbert (Susannah G.) Pullen and her Sunday school class made this pieced quilt in Augusta, Maine in 1863. She followed the guidelines set by the U.S. Sanitary Commission for bedding to be used in the Civil War.
Description
Mrs. Gilbert (Susannah G.) Pullen and her Sunday school class made this pieced quilt in Augusta, Maine in 1863. She followed the guidelines set by the U.S. Sanitary Commission for bedding to be used in the Civil War. The fourteen young ladies in the Sunday school class contributed over 150 inscriptions that were penned on the quilt's fifteen separate star-patterned blocks. They chose Bible passages, stories to uplift and guide, and riddles to which the answer was only to be found in the Bible. They also provided numerous inscriptions on practical health advice, patriotic messages, and light-hearted riddles. Even personal messages such as: "If you are good looking send me your photograph. Direct to the name in the large square. E.G.D." appeared on the quilt. It was hoped that the quilt would not only provide a diversion for the wounded soldiers during their long days recovering in hospital but also "alleviate or prevent disease and lead to happiness and Heaven." The numerous inscriptions on this quilt provide an insight into the feelings and concerns of the period and perhaps all war eras.
Susannah Pullen expressed hope for correspondence when she penned these words on the quilt: "We have many dear friends connected with the army & any proper letters from any persons embraced in the defense of our country, received by any whose names are on this quilt shall have a reply. Tell us if nothing more its destination. We meet with many others to sew for you every Wednesday and your letters would prompt us to more exertions for our patriots." Two letters remain with the quilt and attest to its use at the Carver and Armory Square Hospitals in Washington D.C. A letter from Sergt. Nelson S. Fales of Nov. 22, 1863 eloquently expresses his gratitude: "Dear Madam I have had the pleasure of seeing the beautiful 'Quilt' sent by you to cheer and comfort the Maine Soldiers. I have read the mottoes, sentiments, etc., inscribed thereon with much pleasure and profit."
On the back of the quilt Susannah Pullen penned these words: “The commencement of this war took place Apr. 12th 1861. The first gun was fired from Fort Sumter. God speed the time when we can tell when, and where, the last gun was fired; & ‘we shall learn war no more.’ If this quilt survives the war we would like to have it returned to Mrs. Gilbert Pullen, Augusta, Me . . . This quilt completed Sept. 1st 1863.” It did survive use during the Civil War, and it was returned to Mrs. Pullen as she requested.
Susannah G. Corey was born in Brookline, Massachusetts in 1816. She married Gilbert Pullen (1810-1890) April 26, 1840. Gilbert was listed as a marble cutter on the 1850 census. They lived in Augusta, Maine with their two daughters, Susan E. and Charlotte. Susannah and Gilbert were members of the First Baptist Church. Susannah died November 26, 1871, and is buried in the Forest Grove Cemetery in Augusta, Maine.
Susannah Pullen's Civil War Quilt was exhibited at a library in Augusta, Maine, for many years. Over time the inscriptions faded, but fortunately a transcription of them was made in the early-twentieth century. In 1936 Susannah’s granddaughter, Gertrude B. Davis, donated the quilt in her mother’s name, Charlotte Pullen Scruton. It is a reminder of the efforts of the many women who used their needlework and organizational skills to provide comfort for the armies of both the North and South.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1863
quilter
Pullen, Mrs. Gilbert
quilters
unknown
ID Number
TE.T07726
accession number
138338
catalog number
T07726
Martha Powell created this quilted and stuffed counterpane. Stuffed work refers to the technique of adding extra cotton wadding under the designs before quilting, resulting in a three dimensional effect.
Description
Martha Powell created this quilted and stuffed counterpane. Stuffed work refers to the technique of adding extra cotton wadding under the designs before quilting, resulting in a three dimensional effect. The center of this counterpane is a sunburst in a laurel wreath surrounded by a flowering vine. This is in turn is framed by arcs of flowering vines. Around the outside edge are baskets of fruit and sprays of flowers. It has a cotton lining and filling. All the stuffed motifs are outlined in quilting. The background is quilted in a triple diagonal grid, 11 stitches per inch. No separate binding, front brought to back 1/4" and whipped.
Martha Powell was born in DeKalb County, Georgia, on August 6 1831. She married Fielding Travis Powell (1828-1898) in 1849 or 1857. He practiced law, was a surgeon during the Civil War, and was also known for his many writings in various fields. They had two sons, and a daughter (donor of the quilt). Martha died in 1917 and is buried in Atlanta, Georgia.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1850
1840-1850
1840-1860
maker
Powell, Martha
ID Number
TE.T07721
accession number
136919
catalog number
T07721
The uncomplicated quilting and simple tulip motifs rendered in red and green make this a striking example of mid-19th century quilting.
Description
The uncomplicated quilting and simple tulip motifs rendered in red and green make this a striking example of mid-19th century quilting. The quilt is from donor Mary Newman's family, long-time residents of Somerset, Kentucky.
The pieced tulips are appliquéd on 16 ½-inch blocks, which are set diagonally. They alternate with plain white blocks of the same dimensions. The tulips are quilted with close parallel lines, filling the shape and following the outlines. The background is 3/8-inch straight grid quilting.
The “Tulip” quilt came to the Museum in 1936. At the time Edith B. Newman wrote, “I have a very beautiful [quilt] . . . early handmade and very artistic . . . which I inherited from my husband’s family. . . . I am growing old and have no immediate heirs who might appreciate it. . . . [It should] bear the name of my deceased husband’s sister [Mary] as its donor.”
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1840-1860
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T07886
accession number
141830
catalog number
T07886
“It [quilt] was made 125 years ago in Charleston, S.C., by my great-grandmother, Susan Ladson McPherson. It is in perfect condition as it has evidently never been used, only hoarded as an heirloom.
Description
“It [quilt] was made 125 years ago in Charleston, S.C., by my great-grandmother, Susan Ladson McPherson. It is in perfect condition as it has evidently never been used, only hoarded as an heirloom. I have no daughter to leave it to and it is too large and elaborate for everyday use.” So wrote the donor in 1943.
The original quilt had the center floral wreath encircled by rose vines with a few appliqued flowers around the edge. At a later point appliques were removed (evidenced by many needle-holes) and others added to the center (scrolled frames and vases of flowers) as well as roller-printed cotton borders.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1840-1860
maker
McPherson, Susan Ladson
ID Number
TE.T08886
accession number
165195
catalog number
T08886
The floral motif with stem and leaves is appliqued of reddish brown, orange and dark green cottons on white cotton. Part of a series of blocks intended for a quilt.Currently not on view
Description
The floral motif with stem and leaves is appliqued of reddish brown, orange and dark green cottons on white cotton. Part of a series of blocks intended for a quilt.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1840-1860
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.E387833.00E
accession number
188128
catalog number
E387833E
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1840-1860
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T08205
accession number
147894
catalog number
T08205
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1840-1860
ID Number
TE.T08116
accession number
145004
catalog number
T08116
This gossamer fine wool shawl was knitted in Orenburg, Russia in 1869, according to the donor, Miss Marthe Panchard. The shawl is pictured in Gossamer Webs: The History and Techniques of Orenburg Lace Shawls by Galina A. Khmeleva, 1998, p. 11Currently not on view
Description
This gossamer fine wool shawl was knitted in Orenburg, Russia in 1869, according to the donor, Miss Marthe Panchard. The shawl is pictured in Gossamer Webs: The History and Techniques of Orenburg Lace Shawls by Galina A. Khmeleva, 1998, p. 11
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1869
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T17898
catalog number
T17898
accession number
317932
A block-printed bird dominates this appliqued center panel probably used for a quilt top. Four sprays of block-printed roses and leaves appear to have been later replacements, evidenced by needle-hole patterns in all four corners.
Description
A block-printed bird dominates this appliqued center panel probably used for a quilt top. Four sprays of block-printed roses and leaves appear to have been later replacements, evidenced by needle-hole patterns in all four corners. The motifs were cut out and appliqued on white cotton; an efficient way to utilize expensive printed fabric. A 1/2-inch red border frames the motifs.
The appliqued panel was part of a larger donation of 18th and 19th century textiles that included quilts, coverlets, rugs, printed fabrics, white-on-white embroidered counterpanes, and blankets among other items.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1840 - 1860
Date made
delete
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T18232
accession number
1977.0101
catalog number
T18232
Emily Cole's daughter used a section of pieced patchwork made by Emily Cole as a child to cover this cushion. Patchwork consists of 3" squaresof roller-printed cottons, crudely stitched, and pieced in a "Dutch Tile" or "Diamond in the Square" pattern.
Description (Brief)
Emily Cole's daughter used a section of pieced patchwork made by Emily Cole as a child to cover this cushion. Patchwork consists of 3" squaresof roller-printed cottons, crudely stitched, and pieced in a "Dutch Tile" or "Diamond in the Square" pattern. It is filled with cotton wadding, fabric remnants, and nylon stockings. The original rectangle of patchwork was folded in half to cover the stuffing, and stitched on three sides with pink silk.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1850-1860
ID Number
TE.T15701
accession number
297587
catalog number
T15701
This Irish chain quilt is made of 2-1/2 and 12-1/2" squares of 3 printed cottons, with a fourth printed cotton used for the 9-1/2 " border. The quilting pattern is outline on 2-1/2" squares with same grid on larger squares, clamshell on theborder, 6 stitches/inch.
Description
This Irish chain quilt is made of 2-1/2 and 12-1/2" squares of 3 printed cottons, with a fourth printed cotton used for the 9-1/2 " border. The quilting pattern is outline on 2-1/2" squares with same grid on larger squares, clamshell on theborder, 6 stitches/inch. White cotton lining, cotton filling. No separate binding; front and back turned in, sewn with running stitch.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1840 - 1860
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.H012115
accession number
52752
catalog number
H012115
Plain squares (5 ¾ inches) of a tiny floral, brown-on-white, roller-printed cotton are set off by blocks pieced in a “Nine-patch” variation. The pieced blocks contain a variety of mid-nineteenth century geometric and floral prints.
Description
Plain squares (5 ¾ inches) of a tiny floral, brown-on-white, roller-printed cotton are set off by blocks pieced in a “Nine-patch” variation. The pieced blocks contain a variety of mid-nineteenth century geometric and floral prints. The quilt is lined with a white cotton (now brown) and filled with cotton. It is quilted, 5 – 6 stitches per inch. The quilt has cut-out corners. The quilt with its variety of prints is an example of mid-nineteenth century quilting.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1840-1860
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T17331.000
catalog number
T17331.000
accession number
321804
This “Variable Star” quilt, quite well worn, was found inside another quilt (TE*T07116.00A) in the Collection. Rachel Burr Corwin of Middle Hope in Orange County, New York, fashioned this quilt alternating 8-inch pieced blocks with 8-inch floral, roller-printed cotton squares.
Description
This “Variable Star” quilt, quite well worn, was found inside another quilt (TE*T07116.00A) in the Collection. Rachel Burr Corwin of Middle Hope in Orange County, New York, fashioned this quilt alternating 8-inch pieced blocks with 8-inch floral, roller-printed cotton squares. The same floral print was used for the 7-inch borders. The lining, plain-weave cotton, is plate-printed in blue with long-tailed birds, small birds, peonies and other flowers, a late 18th-century design. The quilting, 5-6 stitches per inch, consists of diagonal lines ¾-inch apart in opposite directions on alternate blocks.
Rachel Burr, daughter of Samuel Burr and Sibyl Scudder Burr of Massachusetts, was born March 3, 1788. She married Samuel Corwin of Orange County, New York, October 14, 1809. They had four children. Needlework examples by one of their daughters, Celia, are also in the Collection. Rachel Burr Corwin died March 14, 1849, in Orange County, New York.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1840-1860
maker
Corwin, Rachel Burr
ID Number
TE.T07116.00B
accession number
121578
catalog number
T07116B
A Vermont quilter, Elizabeth Johnson, fashioned this oak themed quilt in the mid-19th century. The 11½-inch blocks are appliqued with flowers and buds and set diagonally with 11½-inch white blocks that are crossed by appliqued bands of rose, green, and pale green.
Description
A Vermont quilter, Elizabeth Johnson, fashioned this oak themed quilt in the mid-19th century. The 11½-inch blocks are appliqued with flowers and buds and set diagonally with 11½-inch white blocks that are crossed by appliqued bands of rose, green, and pale green. These are framed by a 5½-inch border appliqued with oak leaves. At some point the quilt may have been altered, one side removed and then reset on the cut-down quilt.
Elizabeth (Betsey) Weeks was born on January 18, 1773 in Vermont. She married James Brown Johnson and they lived in Benson, Rutland Co., Vermont. They had one daughter, Relief (1800-1847). According to family information, Elizabeth died on July 31, 1861. She is buried in the Old Benson Cemetery, Vermont. The donor is Elizabeth’s great, great granddaughter.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1850-1860
maker
Weeks, Elizabeth Betsey
ID Number
TE.T13671
accession number
261168
catalog number
T13671
This counterpane, or whole-cloth quilt is made of lengths and fragments of cotton, block-printed in England with a palm-tree-and-pheasant motif. A design very popular in the early nineteenth century.
Description
This counterpane, or whole-cloth quilt is made of lengths and fragments of cotton, block-printed in England with a palm-tree-and-pheasant motif. A design very popular in the early nineteenth century. The printed fabric dates from 1820-1830, although the quilt was made in the mid-19th century. The lining consists of 36 pieces of plain-woven cotton with several different thread counts. A few pieces have rows of needle holes from previous use.
Written in ink on one piece is "E.L. (?) Hale P.” The quilting pattern consists of diagonal lines about 1 inch apart; 5-6 stitches per inch. The binding is a ¾-inch (finished) straight strip of roller-printed brown striped cotton seamed to the front, whipped to the lining. This quilt is an example of recycling fabrics, possibly bed furnishings, in the mid-19th century.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1840-1860
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T17328.000
catalog number
T17328.000
accession number
321804
This “Mosaic” quilt top is made of 1 ½-inch hexagons pieced into flowers. Each is framed by a row of tiny diamonds and triangles. The center of each flower is a printed red morning-glory and the same roller-printed cotton is used for the small diamonds.
Description
This “Mosaic” quilt top is made of 1 ½-inch hexagons pieced into flowers. Each is framed by a row of tiny diamonds and triangles. The center of each flower is a printed red morning-glory and the same roller-printed cotton is used for the small diamonds. According to donor information it was made by Mrs. Tarlton, and won a prize at a county fair in Vermont before the Civil War.
Mrs. Tarlton’s daughter, Nellie, married Captain McKeogh of New Orleans during the Civil War. She in turn gave the quilt to Miss Hannah Jane Seymour on the occasion of her marriage to Elliott Graham in 1891, the parents of the donor. Two of the white hexagons are inscribed “Graham” and “Hannah.” Unfortunately little is known of Mrs. Tarlton other than she moved to New Orleans with her daughter, Nellie.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1840-1860
maker
Tarlton, Mrs.
ID Number
TE.T16838.000
catalog number
T16838.000
accession number
306524
“This quilt was made in Nashville Tenn. I began just before the Civil War, the day Tenn. seceded I stitched the U.S.
Description
“This quilt was made in Nashville Tenn. I began just before the Civil War, the day Tenn. seceded I stitched the U.S. Flag in the center of the quilt, my father being a loyal man he had to leave home or be forced in the Confederate service, I carried the quilt through the rebel lines to the federal to Cincinnati we remained in Cincinnati until the fall of Fort Donelson then we returned home to Nashville. After the battle of Stone River Gen’l Rosecrans suggested I make an autograph quilt of it & at his headquaters [sic] his was the first name placed in the flag and the second was James A. Garfield and most of his Staff Officers names were placed around the flag. Gen’l Winfield Scott in 1863 at West Point wrote his name. I was visiting my Brother who was a Cadet at the Point. `Then Abraham Lincoln 1863 his son Robert Lincoln in 1881. P.H. Sheridan U.S. Grant Brig Gen’l L. Thomas Adjt Gen’l U.S.A. Maj Gen’l George H. Thomas Benj F Butler Chester A. Arthur. S. H. Wilson. Gen H. W. Blair W. T. Sherman J. St. Clair Morton. Jas McLear Horace Maynard. Col Bowman Supt West Point 1863. Jas S Negley. A McDowell McCook J.A. Garfield Chief of Staff. Jas McKibben. Col Arthur Ducat. C. G. Harker. W.WS. Averill Wm McKinley. Nelson N Miles. Leland Stanford. Theodore Roosevelt. Sen Jos R. Hawley. This quilt was saluted by 20000 troops at the funeral of Pres Lincoln. Hung over the East door of the rotunda when Pres Garfield’s body lay in State, has been hung out at different Inaugurations. It has the line of Gen’ls & Lt Gen’ls. It has other names but these are the most prominent. The different ones that have had charge of it when on exhibition have not been very careful with it. I have never thought of disposing of it, but having lost my home through fire, I wish to rebuld [sic] & this is the only way I can see to raise money. Mary A. Lord.”
Mary Hughes Lord’s undated description of her own quilt.
Among the “prominent” signatures on Mary’s quilt is that of James Morton, who gave her the album in which she kept her photograph as well as those of family and friends, and many of Civil War soldiers. James was killed at the battle of Petersburg, Virginia, on June 17, 1864, but Mary saved his letters and official service documents.
Mary Hughes was born in Nashville in 1848. She was seventeen years old in May 1865 when she married Henry Edward Lord, who had served in Tennessee with the Indiana Volunteers (1861-1864). They lived in his home in Brooklyn, New York, and later in the Washington, D.C., area. Mary died in Baltimore, Maryland, in 1926. Her quilt was never sold, but instead passed to her daughter, who brought it to the Museum in 1943.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1860-1865
maker
Lord, Mary Alice Hughes
ID Number
TE.T08900
accession number
166550
catalog number
T08900
Rose of Sharon quilt block with plain curved edges and straight stems with leaves and buds. Pieced of plain-woven red, green, and yellow cottons and one roller-printed cotton. Part of a series of blocks intended for a quilt.Currently not on view
Description
Rose of Sharon quilt block with plain curved edges and straight stems with leaves and buds. Pieced of plain-woven red, green, and yellow cottons and one roller-printed cotton. Part of a series of blocks intended for a quilt.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1840-1860
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.E387833.00C
accession number
188128
catalog number
E387833C

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