Textiles

The 50,000 objects in the textile collections fall into two main categories: raw fibers, yarns, and fabrics, and machines, tools, and other textile technology. Shawls, coverlets, samplers, laces, linens, synthetics, and other fabrics are part of the first group, along with the 400 quilts in the National Quilt Collection. Some of the Museum's most popular artifacts, such as the Star-Spangled Banner and the gowns of the first ladies, have an obvious textile connection.

The machinery and tools include spinning wheels, sewing machines, thimbles, needlework tools, looms, and an invention that changed the course of American agriculture and society. A model of Eli Whitney's cotton gin, made by the inventor in the early 1800s, shows the workings of a machine that helped make cotton plantations profitable in the South and encouraged the spread of slavery.

Length of Cheney Brothers Showerproof Foulard. Silk. Lightweight 2-up, 2-down twill weave. Design of small pairs of double-ended fleur de lis in white on blue ground. Printed. (W. 23 in., L. 36 in.)Currently not on view
Description (Brief)
Length of Cheney Brothers Showerproof Foulard. Silk. Lightweight 2-up, 2-down twill weave. Design of small pairs of double-ended fleur de lis in white on blue ground. Printed. (W. 23 in., L. 36 in.)
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1913
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T00054
catalog number
T00054.000
accession number
55080
The weaver of this blue and white, Figured and Fancy, double-cloth coverlet is unknown. The coverlet is unsigned, but dated in the cornerblocks which read, “U*S*A/A*D/1829.” The coverlet was woven in New York and the pattern design is reminiscent of James Alexander designs.
Description
The weaver of this blue and white, Figured and Fancy, double-cloth coverlet is unknown. The coverlet is unsigned, but dated in the cornerblocks which read, “U*S*A/A*D/1829.” The coverlet was woven in New York and the pattern design is reminiscent of James Alexander designs. The centerfield features a “Double Rose” medallion with mirrored repeats of the spire of Federal Hall. There is no fringe on this coverlet. There are three borders. The lower border features double-headed shielded Great Seal eagles flanked by pine trees. The side borders depict that same double-headed eagles along with depictions of Federal Hall.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1829
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T12674
catalog number
T12674.000
accession number
237317
New York weaver, James Van Ness, Jr. (1811-1872) or possibly the prisoners working at the loomhouse of Auburn State Prison in Cayuga County, New York wove this blue and white, double-cloth, Figured and Fancy coverlet.
Description
New York weaver, James Van Ness, Jr. (1811-1872) or possibly the prisoners working at the loomhouse of Auburn State Prison in Cayuga County, New York wove this blue and white, double-cloth, Figured and Fancy coverlet. The centerfield pattern is composed of horizontal rows of scalloped carpet medallions. Around those can be found the “Birds of Paradise” pattern. The side borders feature foliate and floral motifs within cartouches. The lower border continues this arrangement in a slightly different variation. The cornerblocks name the overall pattern, “Birds of Paradise” and feature a trademark similar to the ones used by Van Ness and Auburn State Prison’s loom house. There is fringe along the bottom border. The coverlet was construced of two panels seamed down the middle. Each section is 41 inches wide. The coverlet measures 85 inches by 82 inches. Emailine Rich Hammond, an ancestor of the donors, originally owned this coverlet circa 1845. Van Ness was the son of another professional weaver of the same name. Van Ness wove in Columbia and Wayne Counties, New York. He is often cited as possibly being one of the weavers hired to train the prisoners and set up the looms at Auburn State Prison, but more research is needed to confirm this. In 1862, Van Ness and his family moved to Michigan. Van Ness was tragically killed by a falling limb in Michigan while helping a neighbor fight a forest fire.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1845
c. 1835-1850
c. 1845
owner
Hammond, Emeline Rice
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T11789
catalog number
T11789.000
accession number
225701
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1880-1883
maker
Jennings, A. G.
ID Number
TE.E185225.042
catalog number
E185225.042
accession number
14034
Sample length of a Cheney Brothers Printed Silk "Showerproof Foulard" border design dress silk, 1913.
Description (Brief)
Sample length of a Cheney Brothers Printed Silk "Showerproof Foulard" border design dress silk, 1913. Dark blue ground with printed wisteria border design: thin white vines and flower clusters in shades of light orange (peach) with green leaves; denser and larger near the center and smaller and sparser near the selvage edge.. (36" L x 44 in. W)
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1913
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T00066
catalog number
T00066.000
accession number
55080
A length of printed pure dye silk crepe. Soft lustrous plain weave fabric. Pattern "Starry Stripes", one of the H.R. Mallinson & Co. George Washington Bicentenniel print series.
Description
A length of printed pure dye silk crepe. Soft lustrous plain weave fabric. Pattern "Starry Stripes", one of the H.R. Mallinson & Co. George Washington Bicentenniel print series. Overall pattern of iny white stars on a blue ground in a lengthwise stripe layout.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1932
maker
H R Mallinson and Company, Incorporated
ID Number
TE.T06958
accession number
118355
catalog number
T06958.000
William Skinner and Sons "Escape Parachute Cloth," or "Canopy Cloth" white silk twill fabric length, 1941.Lightweight, soft silk fabric used in making soldiers' parachutes. Commercial names: Escape Parachute Cloth or Canopy Cloth. Manufacturer's notes: Twill weave, 2 x 1.
Description
William Skinner and Sons "Escape Parachute Cloth," or "Canopy Cloth" white silk twill fabric length, 1941.
Lightweight, soft silk fabric used in making soldiers' parachutes. Commercial names: Escape Parachute Cloth or Canopy Cloth. Manufacturer's notes: Twill weave, 2 x 1. Quality Exp 302A, Lot No. 47539. Color white. Thread count 288 x 84. Used in World War II. Woven in Holyoke, MA by William Skinner and Sons. Small rivet-like indentions on one side of the length, spanning all the way across every few inches.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1941
ID Number
TE.T08575.000
accession number
161884
catalog number
T08575.000
Sample length of Cheney Brothers border printed satiin-striped silk Voile, 1913. Sheer open plain weave with variable width satin stripes.
Description (Brief)
Sample length of Cheney Brothers border printed satiin-striped silk Voile, 1913. Sheer open plain weave with variable width satin stripes. Printed border in banded design inspired by Paisley and Kashmir shawls and near-eastern rugs - stylized geometric and flower forms in dull red, green, blue-gray, and black on pale blue. (W. 50 in., L. 36 in.) Possibly designed by Sophie Crownfield.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1913
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T00071
catalog number
T00071.000
accession number
55080
A length of block-printed Mallinson trade name "Indestructible" Voile. A sheer, plain weave silk fabric similar to chiffon.
Description
A length of block-printed Mallinson trade name "Indestructible" Voile. A sheer, plain weave silk fabric similar to chiffon. Printed with a dress or blouse pattern length; the material is ornamented with a block printed design (imitating batik work) which forms the front, back, and sleeves for the blouse or, as it might have been called when it was made, the "waist". H. R. Mallinson & Co. was one of many textile manufacturers who sought to reproduce the effects of hand-crafted batik (wax-resist dyeing) through more mechanized means. In this case the design was hand-block printed. Batik was very popular and fashionable in the late 1910s and early 1920s. The idea of laying the design out on the cloth (sometimes called engineering) so it could be stitched into a blouse with very little cutting was unusual at the time. This blouse length is incomplete, it shows only the neck area, sleeves, and the front (or back, difficult to know for sure) of the blouse. The complete blouse would have been symmetrical across the center of the neckline.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1919
maker
H. R. Mallinson & Co. Inc.
ID Number
TE.T04144
accession number
63914
catalog number
T04144.000
Set of three Cheney Brothers silk fabric lengths, of the same pattern. "Brocatelle", with a spun silk warp and linen and spun silk wefts.
Description (Brief)
Set of three Cheney Brothers silk fabric lengths, of the same pattern. "Brocatelle", with a spun silk warp and linen and spun silk wefts. Style #4234/2, Neo-classical design featuring large medallions and floral swags, combining pearl roundels, birds, cord, tassels, and nude figures (putti). Motifs in pinkish-tan and blue-gray on a pinkish strie ground. Wholesaled for $9.50 per yd. A- (W. 25 in, L. 140 in.), B- (W. 25 in., L. 36 in.), C- (W. 25 in., L. 4.5 yds) Design inspired by Phillippe de LaSalle styles in the late 18th C. for the French court.
These furnishing silks were, along with the patterned velvets, represent the most expensive and exclusive textiles that Cheney Brothers produced.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1925
ID Number
TE.T05113.A-C
accession number
87434
catalog number
T05113.A-C
T05113.000
By the 1840s a new technique [in the field] of needlepoint known as Berlin wool work was the rage. It arose in Germany at the beginning of the 19th century. New dyes became available and brightly colored wools could be worked in tent stitch on canvas.
Description
By the 1840s a new technique [in the field] of needlepoint known as Berlin wool work was the rage. It arose in Germany at the beginning of the 19th century. New dyes became available and brightly colored wools could be worked in tent stitch on canvas. The patterns were painted by hand on “point paper,” which today would be called graph paper. Some of the patterns were copies of famous paintings.
This large canvas work picture came in an elaborate glazed gold frame with a mat of black paint and gold leaf on the inside of the glass. The inscription across the bottom is “Eliza Gleason, Joseph Interpreting the Dream of King Pharaoh January 1st, 1870.” The original frame was removed since it needed repair, and the work was reframed for exhibit from 1976 to 1981. The ground is cotton canvas and the threads are wool and silk.
According to the biblical story, Pharaoh had a dream that no one could interpret for him. His chief cupbearer then remembered that Joseph had interpreted a dream for him when he was in prison two years earlier. So, Joseph was “brought from the dungeon” and shaved and changed his clothes. He then came before Pharaoh and told him that his dream meant there would be seven years of abundance in the land of Egypt followed by seven years of famine. Joseph recommended that “a discerning and wise man” be put in charge and that food should be collected in the good years and stored for use during the famine. This seemed like a good idea to Pharaoh and Joseph ended up with the job (Genesis 41).
Eliza Gleason was born in February 1839, in Connecticut. She married Robert Gleason ca. 1864 in Brooklyn, New York. She stitched this after she was married. In the 1870 Kings County, New York, census, she has an eight year old and a baby.
date made
1870
maker
Gleason, Eliza
ID Number
TE.T17202.01
accession number
316362
catalog number
T17202
Bronze medal won by Jane Loucks in a daguerreotype case that is 3 7/8” x 3 ½”. Obverse side: AMERICAN INSTITUTE / G. H. Lovett, N.Y.NEW YORK.
Description
Bronze medal won by Jane Loucks in a daguerreotype case that is 3 7/8” x 3 ½”. Obverse side: AMERICAN INSTITUTE / G. H. Lovett, N.Y.
NEW YORK. Reverse side: AWARDED / TO Miss Jane Loucks,
For the best / Worsted Embroidery, / 1856.
Jane Elizabeth Loucks was born in 1835 to John and Desdemonia Marsh Loucks in Sharon, New York. She married Joseph Warren Hastings on February 16, 1871, in Manhattan. They moved to Illinois and had one daughter, Dena. See her wining piece, Mary Queen of Scots.
Location
Currently not on view
maker
Lovett, George Hampden
ID Number
TE.T11106
catalog number
T11106
accession number
238291
Length of printed "Vagabond Crepe" (Mallinson trade name). Weft ribbed, crepe fabric woven with silk warp and doupion weft. Printed allover pattern "Betsy Ross-Liberty Bell," one of the "Early American" series.
Description
Length of printed "Vagabond Crepe" (Mallinson trade name). Weft ribbed, crepe fabric woven with silk warp and doupion weft. Printed allover pattern "Betsy Ross-Liberty Bell," one of the "Early American" series. Jagged, rayed "Art Deco" or "Jazz Age" depiction of the Liberty Bell; Thirteen stars with coats of arms in them of the 13 original states; Washington inspecting Betsy Ross's flag; and Independence Hall. Colorway: Light blue ground (fading out in sections to pinkish tone) White reserves, print in black, coral, pink, red. Selvage width; selvage inscription. Judging from drawings by free-lance textile designer Walter Mitschke in the collection of the Museum of Fine Arts - Boston, Mitschke designed this print and several others in the Early American series.
Mallinson's 1929 "Early American" series of printed dress silks was based on historical events and figures that were perceived at the time to consitute a shared American story. It was the last of the company's line of designs based on American themes in which each design was printed in at least seven colors, in several colorways, on three or four different ground cloths. The stock market crash and economic depression that followed made the investment in this kind of design unprofitable.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1929
maker
H. R. Mallinson & Co. Inc.
ID Number
TE.T05949
accession number
104252
catalog number
T05949.000
Printed lace pattern, named Pattern No. 4. Sold by Sara Hadley, New York. Only the dots are printed, not the little numbers indicating the sequence of working the pattern. This pattern has not been used.Currently not on view
Description (Brief)
Printed lace pattern, named Pattern No. 4. Sold by Sara Hadley, New York. Only the dots are printed, not the little numbers indicating the sequence of working the pattern. This pattern has not been used.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1903
ID Number
2016.0048.09D
accession number
2016.0048
catalog number
2016.0048.09D
Length of a Cheney Brothers silk furnishing velvet. All silk velvet, very supple. Renaissance revival pattern. Wine red.
Description (Brief)
Length of a Cheney Brothers silk furnishing velvet. All silk velvet, very supple. Renaissance revival pattern. Wine red. Construction; solid cut pile, pile weave (probably double-woven), varying pile density creates the pattern, dark (dense) against lighter (sparser pile, with the golden yellow ground showing through) red. Yarns: ground warp and weft – tan, pile – dark red. Pattern; Large conventionalized Renaissance revival floral palmette motif with ogee framing, 22 in. L, 3 motifs in width of fabric. (W. 37-1/2 in., L. 36 in.)
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1913
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T00105.000
catalog number
T00105.000
accession number
55080
Cheney Brothers "Kioto" Dress or Furnishing Silk, 1915. A light weight plain weave, frisson (spun silk fabric) with coarse silk filling.
Description (Brief)
Cheney Brothers "Kioto" Dress or Furnishing Silk, 1915. A light weight plain weave, frisson (spun silk fabric) with coarse silk filling. Printed with a Persian and Indian inspired design with garden-like fruit and cypress tree elements, paired birds, peacocks, architectural elements, in island layout in blue, green, pink, tan on black ground. (W. 30 in., L. 36 in.)
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1915
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T02640.000
catalog number
T02640.000
accession number
58458
This blue and white, Figured and Fancy, double-cloth coverlet is dated 1844 in the outmost border but is otherwise unsigned. There is a large central medallion composed of scrollwork and anthemion motifs.
Description
This blue and white, Figured and Fancy, double-cloth coverlet is dated 1844 in the outmost border but is otherwise unsigned. There is a large central medallion composed of scrollwork and anthemion motifs. Around this, the remaining centerfield is composed of thistles, bluebells, and other floral designs. There is a meandering clover-like floral design and sine-line outermost border where the date can be found woven into the design. This coverlet was made near Syracuse, New York for the mother of the donor’s grandfather who was married in 1840. There is no center seam, indicating that this coverlet was woven on a broad loom.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1841
date made
1844
ID Number
TE.T6713
catalog number
T06713.000
accession number
111910
"The Battle of the Sewing Machines" was composed and arranged by F. Hyde for the piano, and was published in 1874 by Wm. A. Pond & Co. of 547 Broadway, N.Y., N.Y. The lithograph by R. Teller of 120 Wooster St., N.Y., N.Y., illustrates a "battle" of sewing machines.
Description
"The Battle of the Sewing Machines" was composed and arranged by F. Hyde for the piano, and was published in 1874 by Wm. A. Pond & Co. of 547 Broadway, N.Y., N.Y. The lithograph by R. Teller of 120 Wooster St., N.Y., N.Y., illustrates a "battle" of sewing machines. The Remington "army" is marching towards the fleeing Singer, Howe, Succor, Weed, and Willcox & Gibbs sewing machines. The soldiers are riding the Remington treadle machines like horses and are carrying Remington rifles. The Remington No. 2 sewing machine had just come out to market in June 1874. The family treadle machine with a drop-leaf table and two drawers would have cost $75.00.
On the top left of the sheet music, a woman is pictured sewing on a Remington machine in the Remington office at Madison Square, New York. In the right box is featured the Remington Works of Ilion, N.Y. The music consists of 11 pages, with such subtitles as: "Howe the battle began"; "Advent of all the best machines"; "Song of the Sewing Machine Man: 'How Can I Leave Thee'"; "Triumph of the Remington Sewing Machine," and "Home Sweet Home."
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1874
referenced
Remington Sewing Machine Company
composer
Hyde, F.
publisher
William A. Pond & Co.
lithographer
Teller, R.
ID Number
1991.0130.01
catalog number
1991.0130.01
accession number
1991.0130
This Jacquard double-cloth coverlet features a tulip, carpet medallion centerfield with eagle, federal architecture, and masonic motif borders.
Description
This Jacquard double-cloth coverlet features a tulip, carpet medallion centerfield with eagle, federal architecture, and masonic motif borders. Inscribed in the coverlet’s corners and top and bottom edges are the name of the client, "Esther Jewil" and the phrase and date, "Agriculture & Manufactures are the Foundation of Our Independence. July 4, 1840." This coverlet was woven in Dutchess County, New York in 1840. Ester Jewell (1757-1844) was the recipient of this coverlet. It is interesting that the Jewell’s commissioned this coverlet just four years before her death. Esther’s husband, Isaac Jr., father-in-law, Isaac Sr., and brother-in-law were veterans of the American Revolution.
This particular design and inscription was woven numerous times, and there are dated coverlets of this pattern from 1824-1840. Likely because of its bold patriotic statement, this coverlet design appears in major museums across the country. NMAH has another red and white coverlet of the same design. This design was initially associated with Scots-Irish weaver, James Alexander, but the consensus has changed as Alexander had retired from weaving in 1828 and none of the client names in Alexander’s account book matched those found on extant “Agriculture and Manufacture” coverlets.
This group of coverlets was almost certainly woven by more than one weaver whose identities have not yet been found. The weavers were also almost certainly apprentices or journeymen working with Alexander before his retirement. The floral medallions harken back to Scottish and English double-woven carpet designs and are identical to those found on Alexander’s earlier coverlets. Even the Masonic and eagle borders featured on this coverlet are more refined versions of borders found on Alexander coverlets.
The National Museum of American History also possesses two more of these “Agriculture and Manufacture” coverlets (see T14962 and T18131). Perhaps, Alexander sold his weaving equipment and patterns to former apprentices who joined in partnership? There are two groups of these coverlets and over 125 of them known. One group was woven in two sections and joined with a center seam, the other group was woven on a broad loom and does not have the center seam. The Esther Jewell coverlet falls into the latter group. Broad looms required either two weavers or the use of a fly shuttle to get the weft yarn back and forth across the wider width of the fabric, otherwise the loom and fabric width was dictated by the weaver’s arm width. There is also so speculation as to whether these particular patterns were executed on a draw loom of with the help of a Jacquard mechanism. Alexander’s weaving career almost entirely predates the introduction of the Jacquard head into the United States, suggesting that these coverlets which are so much in his fashion were almost certainly also woven on a draw loom.
Being double-cloth, this coverlet has two sets of warps and wefts made of an Indigo wool 2-ply, S-twist, Z-spun warp and weft and a cotton 2-ply, S-Twist, Z-spun warp and weft. The warps and wefts change place throughout the weaving process, creating the contrasting designs and strengthening the structure and creating a heavier and warmer textile.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1840
ID Number
TE.T16116
catalog number
T016116.000
accession number
298210
Printed lace pattern, named Pattern No. 8. Sold by Sara Hadley, New York. Only the dots are printed, not the little numbers indicating the sequence of working the pattern. This pattern has not been used. Fragile, with a corner missing.Currently not on view
Description (Brief)
Printed lace pattern, named Pattern No. 8. Sold by Sara Hadley, New York. Only the dots are printed, not the little numbers indicating the sequence of working the pattern. This pattern has not been used. Fragile, with a corner missing.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1903
ID Number
2016.0048.09G
accession number
2016.0048
catalog number
2016.0048.09G
This blue and white, overshot coverlet is woven in a simple patch pattern variation. The customer’s initials, "M S" and the date “1787” are woven into the fabric at one corner. The weaver of this coverlet is unknown; however, there are several others known.
Description
This blue and white, overshot coverlet is woven in a simple patch pattern variation. The customer’s initials, "M S" and the date “1787” are woven into the fabric at one corner. The weaver of this coverlet is unknown; however, there are several others known. There are two others in the NMAH collection. It is thought that the weaver worked in the Albany, New York areas. The earliest coverlet that is dated in the weaver was woven by this weaver. It is dated 1771 and is currently in the collection of the National Museum of the American Coverlet in Bedford, Pennsylvania. The coverlet was constructed from two panels and measures 91 inches by 64 inches.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1787
ID Number
TE.T14896
accession number
288874
Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1916
ID Number
TE.T03760C
catalog number
T03760.00C
accession number
61066
This is a blue and white, double-cloth, Figured and Fancy coverlet features along fringe three sides, and a spread eagle lower border. The center design is variation of the “Double Rose” carpet medallion pattern with ivy leaf accents.
Description
This is a blue and white, double-cloth, Figured and Fancy coverlet features along fringe three sides, and a spread eagle lower border. The center design is variation of the “Double Rose” carpet medallion pattern with ivy leaf accents. The side borders display an interlocking “Double Flower” motif that is reminiscent of lotus flowers. The two lower corner blocks feature pairs of dogs and a woven inscription which reads, "1831 EAW/ Pompey." There is a four inch self-fringe on the lower edge and an applied fringe on the sides that is also four inches long. The coverlet was constructed of two panels that were woven as one length, cut, and seamed up the middle.
This coverlet was woven in Pompey, Onondaga County, New York in 1831. There has been some scholarly debate about who the Pompey weaver(s) may have been. At first scholars looked for a weaver with the last name Pompey, but they quickly realized the weaver was operating in the town of Pompey. There are extant dated coverlets in this style ranging from 1831-1836. There three coverlet weavers in Pompey at the time. Benjamin June and his son, Benjamin Jr. and Henry L. Goodrich. All three of these weavers could possibly be the maker of this and the other Pompey coverlets; however, the signed June family coverlets omit the town name from their designs, leaving Goodrich the most likely candidate. Federal census records list Henry as a resident of Rensselaer County, New York in 1830 and 1840, but occupation was not a recorded category in the early census. It is unclear when and why Henry spent time in Onondaga County and more research is needed to unravel the mystery and confirm or deny the attribution of these coverlets to Goodrich. The style of this coverlet is reflective the organization, arrangement, and style of the earlier Figured and Fancy coverlets foun
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1831
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T18211
catalog number
T18211.000
accession number
1977.0101
Length of Cheney Brothers "Silk Velours" in deep red. Construction; silk pile warp , cotton ground warp and weft. pile weave, solid cut pile; pile length is slightly longer than regular velvet but not quite a plush. Piece dyed garnet red. (W. 53 in., L.
Description (Brief)
Length of Cheney Brothers "Silk Velours" in deep red. Construction; silk pile warp , cotton ground warp and weft. pile weave, solid cut pile; pile length is slightly longer than regular velvet but not quite a plush. Piece dyed garnet red. (W. 53 in., L. 36 in.)
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1913
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T00073
catalog number
T00073.000
accession number
55080

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