Textiles

The 50,000 objects in the textile collections fall into two main categories: raw fibers, yarns, and fabrics, and machines, tools, and other textile technology. Shawls, coverlets, samplers, laces, linens, synthetics, and other fabrics are part of the first group, along with the 400 quilts in the National Quilt Collection. Some of the Museum's most popular artifacts, such as the Star-Spangled Banner and the gowns of the first ladies, have an obvious textile connection.

The machinery and tools include spinning wheels, sewing machines, thimbles, needlework tools, looms, and an invention that changed the course of American agriculture and society. A model of Eli Whitney's cotton gin, made by the inventor in the early 1800s, shows the workings of a machine that helped make cotton plantations profitable in the South and encouraged the spread of slavery.

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1802
maker
Mitchel, Mary
ID Number
2018.0230.01
accession number
2018.0230
catalog number
2018.0230.01
Weavers at the Lancaster Carpet, Coverlet, Quilt, and Yarn Manufactory, owned by Philip Schum likely wove this Jacquard, mauve, red, green, and brown, double-cloth coverlet sometime between 1856 and 1880.
Description
Weavers at the Lancaster Carpet, Coverlet, Quilt, and Yarn Manufactory, owned by Philip Schum likely wove this Jacquard, mauve, red, green, and brown, double-cloth coverlet sometime between 1856 and 1880. The centerfield features a large central medallion made up of concentric floral wreaths. Inside these medallions is a large representation of the United States Capitol. The centerfield ground is made up of shaded triangles. Each corner of the centerfield design features a bird surrounded by flowers and above the bird is a boteh, a motif found on Kashmiri shawls and later European copies commonly referred to as Paisley pattern. The four-sided border is composed of meandering floral and foliate designs. There are not traditional cornerblocks on this coverlet, but there are large floral or foliate medallions in each corner that are very similar to those used on signed Philip Schum coverlets. There is fringe along three sides. This coverlet was woven on a broadloom, and possibly a power loom.
Philip Schum (1814-1880) was born in Hesse-Darmstadt, Holy Roman Empire. He immigrated to New York, moving to Lancaster County, PA in approximately 1844. He was not trained as a weaver and there is no evidence that he ever was. What we do know is that Philip Schum was a savvy businessman. He worked first as a "Malt Tramper" in New York, a position presumably linked to brewing and malting of grains. After six months, Philip was able to afford to bring his first wife Ana Margartha Bond (1820-1875) to join him in Pennsylvania. Once reunited, Philip worked as a day laborer, shoemaker, and basket-maker. He purchased a small general store in Lancaster City in 1852. By 1856, he has built his business enough to sell at a profit and purchase the Lancaster Carpet, Coverlet, Quilt, and Yarn Manufactory. Philip's first wife, Anna, passed away sometime before 1879, because in this year, Philip married his second wife, Anna Margaret Koch (1834-1880). The two were tragically killed in a train accident in 1880, when a locomotive stuck their horse and buggy. The New Era, a local Lancaster newspaper titled the article about the incident with the headline, "Death's Harvest." Lancaster Carpet, Coverlet, Quilt, and Yarn Manufactory began with just one or two looms and four men. It grew to four looms and eight men quickly. By 1875, the factory had twenty looms and employed forty men. Philip Schum was no weaver. He was an entrepreneur and businessman who invested in the growing market for household textiles. Philip's estate inventory included a carpet shop, weaving shop, dye house, two stores, and a coal yard. At the time of his death were also listed 390 "Half-wool coverlets." These were valued at $920. In 1878, Philip partnered with his son, John E. Schum to form, Philip Schum, Son, and Co. Another Schum coverlet is in the collections of the MFA-Houston. This particular coverlet was purchased by the donor's grandfather in either Cincinnati or Pittsburg while he was serving as a ship's carpenter along the Ohio River trade routes. The family would later settle in Crawford County, Indiana. This fact also shows that Philip Schum's coverlets, quilts, yarn, etc. were not just being made for the local market. Schum was transporting his goods west and presumably in other directions. He was making for an American market.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1875-1900
late 19th century
1858-1880
maker
Schum, Philip
ID Number
TE.T14561
catalog number
T14561.000
accession number
277986
Daniel Mills, of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Patent model for a machine to sew buttonholes. Patent No. 265,850 Issued October 10 1882. Buttonhole Sewing Machine.Currently not on view
Description
Daniel Mills, of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Patent model for a machine to sew buttonholes. Patent No. 265,850 Issued October 10 1882. Buttonhole Sewing Machine.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
before 1882-10-10
inventor
Mills, Daniel
ID Number
TE.T06598
patent number
265850
catalog number
T.6598
accession number
89797
This cotton and wool Figured and Fancy coverlet features red, blue and olive green horizontal color-banding. The centerfield is composed of five different floral and geometric design motifs each within nine and a quarter inch diamond figures.
Description
This cotton and wool Figured and Fancy coverlet features red, blue and olive green horizontal color-banding. The centerfield is composed of five different floral and geometric design motifs each within nine and a quarter inch diamond figures. The border pattern found on all four sides the coverlet is composed of houses, fences trees, grapevine, dogs, cats, chickens, and birds. The four corners list the manufacturer’s name, place, and date, indicating that the coverlet was made by H. & A. Seifert in Mechanicsburg, Cumberland County, Pennsylvania in 1847. The coverlet was woven for Daniel Baker (1821-1905) of Church Town, PA. "This is the property of Daniel Baker.” is woven in a narrow band across the lower border of the coverlet. Extensions of warp ends and weft picks form a fringe along three sides.
H. & A. Seifert, the manufacturer of this coverlet, was a partnership between brothers, Andrew (1820-1900) and Henry Seifert (1823-1905). More research is needed into whether this partnership was simply between two artisan hand-weavers or if the brothers were investing their capital into the establishment of a factory. The brothers were born in York City, York County, Pennsylvania. They established their business in Mechanicsburg, Cumberland County, Pennsylvania. The partnership was extant at least between the years 1843-1851, as there are extant signed and dated coverlets that fall within that range. There was a third brother, Emanuel (b. 1830) who was recorded at living with Andrew in the 1850 Federal Census. It is quite likely that as the youngest brother, his older brothers trained him as a coverlet weaver, and he was likely working in the manufactory where this coverlet was made. H. & A. Seifert was dissolved in 1851, and Seifert and Co. established. It is almost certain that Emanuel joined into the partnership with his older brothers. The Seifert coverlets and the evolving business relationships these brothers engaged in tell and show how rural American craftspeople related to technological advancement and new business models.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1847
manufacturer
H. & A. Seifert
ID Number
TE.T9151
catalog number
T09151.000
accession number
170812
catalog number
T-9151

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