Textiles

Coverlet

The 50,000 objects in the textile collections fall into two main categories: raw fibers, yarns, and fabrics, and machines, tools, and other textile technology. Shawls, coverlets, samplers, laces, linens, synthetics, and other fabrics are part of the first group, along with the 400 quilts in the National Quilt Collection. Some of the Museum's most popular artifacts, such as the Star-Spangled Banner and the gowns of the first ladies, have an obvious textile connection.

The machinery and tools include spinning wheels, sewing machines, thimbles, needlework tools, looms, and an invention that changed the course of American agriculture and society. A model of Eli Whitney's cotton gin, made by the inventor in the early 1800s, shows the workings of a machine that helped make cotton plantations profitable in the South and encouraged the spread of slavery.

Date: 1910s

Bobbin Lace Insertion Made in China

This sample of handmade torchon bobbin lace has motifs with diamond shapes, tallies, and triangles. It was made at the Amoy Lace Guild in China and sold for twenty cents per yard in US gold in 1913.
Description
This sample of handmade torchon bobbin lace has motifs with diamond shapes, tallies, and triangles. It was made at the Amoy Lace Guild in China and sold for twenty cents per yard in US gold in 1913. The Amoy Lace Guild was established by missionaries in 1885 as a charitable organization to provide a source of income to indigent Chinese women and children. Patterns and linen thread was imported from England and Ireland. Lace from the Amoy Lace Guild won a silver medal at the St. Louis exposition in 1904.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1905-1912
1900-1912
maker
Amoy Lace Guild
ID Number
TE.T00923
catalog number
T00923.000
accession number
55643

Amoy Lace Guild Bobbin Lace Sample

This sample of handmade Chinese made bobbin lace motif is labeled as costing “$.80 per dozen in US gold” and is made of linen. It was acquired from the Amoy Lace Guild, Amoy (Xiamen), China, through Bureau of Foreign and Domestic Commerce, Department of Commerce in 1913.
Description
This sample of handmade Chinese made bobbin lace motif is labeled as costing “$.80 per dozen in US gold” and is made of linen. It was acquired from the Amoy Lace Guild, Amoy (Xiamen), China, through Bureau of Foreign and Domestic Commerce, Department of Commerce in 1913. The Amoy Lace Guild was established by missionaries in 1885 as a charitable organization to provide a source of income to indigent Chinese women and children. Patterns and linen thread was imported from England and Ireland. Lace from the Amoy Lace Guild won a silver medal at the St. Louis exposition in 1904. This circular motif has leaves and braids with a circular motif in the center
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1900-1912
maker
Amoy Lace Guild
ID Number
TE.T00962
catalog number
T00962.000
accession number
55643

Skein of artificial silk, in the raw; National Silk Dyeing Co., 1915

Skein of thrown artificial silk, in the raw; National Silk Dyeing Co., 1915. Part of a donation of 63 samples representing the processes of silk skein-dyeing, and silk piece-dyeing and printing, given by the National Silk Dyeing Co of Paterson, New Jersey, in 1915.
Description
Skein of thrown artificial silk, in the raw; National Silk Dyeing Co., 1915. Part of a donation of 63 samples representing the processes of silk skein-dyeing, and silk piece-dyeing and printing, given by the National Silk Dyeing Co of Paterson, New Jersey, in 1915. National Silk Dyeing Co., headquartered at 140 Market St., Paterson, NJ was formed from five silk dyeing firms in Peterson, NJ (Auger & Simon Silk Dyeing Company; Emil Geering Silk Dyeing Co., Knipscher & Maas Silk Dyeing Company, Kearns Brothers, and Gaede Silk Dyeing Co.) and a fifth company from Allentown, Pa. (Lotte Brothers under the leadership of Charles I. Auger. National Silk Dyeing immediately became one of the large silk dyeing conglomerates in the nation. It operated into the Great Depression but was eventually broken up and sold off.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1915
maker
National Silk Dyeing Co.
ID Number
TE.T02798.000
catalog number
T02798.000
accession number
58940
catalog number
T2798
collector/donor number
41

Bobbin Lace Insertion Sample Made in China

This sample of handmade torchon bobbin lace insertion has motifs with spiders and half stitch trails. It was made at the Amoy Lace Guild in China and sold for ten cents per yard in US gold in 1913.
Description
This sample of handmade torchon bobbin lace insertion has motifs with spiders and half stitch trails. It was made at the Amoy Lace Guild in China and sold for ten cents per yard in US gold in 1913. The Amoy Lace Guild was established by missionaries in 1885 as a charitable organization to provide a source of income to indigent Chinese women and children. Patterns and linen thread was imported from England and Ireland. Lace from the Amoy Lace Guild won a silver medal at the St. Louis exposition in 1904.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1905-1912
1900-1912
maker
Amoy Lace Guild
ID Number
TE.T00927
catalog number
T00927.000
accession number
55643

Brussels needle and bobbin lace sleeve, not assembled, part of dress

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1900-1910
ID Number
1981.0902.04
catalog number
1981.0902.04
accession number
1981.0902

Cheney Brothers Printed Silk "Crepe Velour"; 1916

A sample length of Cheney Brothers printed apparel silk "crepe velour", 1916. 40" width. This is a sample length of the first of two colorways: black, green, and pinks on white and pinks, green, and lavender on purple (dark blue?).
Description
A sample length of Cheney Brothers printed apparel silk "crepe velour", 1916. 40" width. This is a sample length of the first of two colorways: black, green, and pinks on white and pinks, green, and lavender on purple (dark blue?). Japonisme design of scattered chrysanthemum sprigs, imitation of an ikat or warp print. A thin, lightweight, plain weave silk, similar to Mallinson's Pussy Willow tradename.
Original cataloging: Printed crepe velour. A light weight silk with a crepey finish, chrysanthemum pattern. Colors: black and pink on white and white and pink on dark blue. Cheney Brothers. Sample shows significant fading. 3" x 4.5" and 6" x 8" pieces cut from corners of the sample. (W. 40 in., L. 36 in.)
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1913
date made
1916
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T02826.00A
catalog number
T02826.00A
accession number
59368

Cheney Brothers Printed Silk "Showerproof Foulard", 1913

Sample length of a Cheney Brothers Printed Silk "Showerproof Foulard" border design dress silk, 1913.
Description (Brief)
Sample length of a Cheney Brothers Printed Silk "Showerproof Foulard" border design dress silk, 1913. Dark blue ground with printed wisteria border design: thin white vines and flower clusters in shades of light orange (peach) with green leaves; denser and larger near the center and smaller and sparser near the selvage edge.. (36" L x 44 in. W)
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1913
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T00066
catalog number
T00066.000
accession number
55080

Sample of sixth wax drawing (background, reverse) on cotton cloth; step eight in the Javanese batik process, 1915

Sample of sixth wax drawing (background, reverse) on cotton cloth; step eight in the Javanese batik process, 1915.
Description
Sample of sixth wax drawing (background, reverse) on cotton cloth; step eight in the Javanese batik process, 1915. Approximately 10" x 12"; Design has a central butterfly motif surrounded by scrolling ferns and curlicues; with four outer borders.This sample has had the background filled in with wax on the reverse. Step eight in a set of 14 process samples together with 22 finished items, made by prisoners in Java for display at the 1915 Panama-Pacific Exposition in San Francisco. Purchased by the US National Museum for the Division of Textiles from the Netherlands East Indies Commission at the close of the Exposition.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1914-1915
ID Number
TE.T02913.000
catalog number
T02913.000
accession number
59191

Six skeins of Organzine silk; dyed; National Silk Dyeing Co.,1915

Six skeins of dyed thrown organzine silk, Two thread Japan Organzine, dyed pink, light blue, yellow, red, green, and black.
Description
Six skeins of dyed thrown organzine silk, Two thread Japan Organzine, dyed pink, light blue, yellow, red, green, and black. This type of yarn was used in the warp for weaving dress silks and ribbons; it is fine, even, and strong.
Part of a donation of 63 samples representing the processes of silk skein-dyeing, and silk piece-dyeing and printing, given by the National Silk Dyeing Co of Paterson, New Jersey, in 1915. National Silk Dyeing Co., headquartered at 140 Market St., Paterson, NJ was formed from five silk dyeing firms in Peterson, NJ (Auger & Simon Silk Dyeing Company; Emil Geering Silk Dyeing Co., Knipscher & Maas Silk Dyeing Company, Kearns Brothers, and Gaede Silk Dyeing Co.) and a fifth company from Allentown, Pa. (Lotte Brothers under the leadership of Charles I. Auger. National Silk Dyeing immediately became one of the large silk dyeing conglomerates in the nation. It operated into the Great Depression but was eventually broken up and sold off.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1915
maker
National Silk Dyeing Co.
ID Number
TE.T02793.000
catalog number
T02793.000
accession number
58940
catalog number
T2793
accession number
58940

Flower Buds and Leaves Motif in Point de Gaze Needle Lace

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1900-1914
ID Number
TE.L7028B
catalog number
L7028.00B

Cheney Brothers Border printed silk Voile, 1913

Sample length of Cheney Brothers border printed satiin-striped silk Voile, 1913. Sheer open plain weave with variable width satin stripes.
Description (Brief)
Sample length of Cheney Brothers border printed satiin-striped silk Voile, 1913. Sheer open plain weave with variable width satin stripes. Printed border in banded design inspired by Paisley and Kashmir shawls and near-eastern rugs - stylized geometric and flower forms in dull red, green, blue-gray, and black on pale blue. (W. 50 in., L. 36 in.) Possibly designed by Sophie Crownfield.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1913
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T00071
catalog number
T00071.000
accession number
55080

Sample of oiled plain weave white cotton cloth; step two in the Javanese batik process, 1915

Oiled plain weave white cotton cloth sample; step two in the Javanese batik process, 1915. This cloth is industrially produced and imported from Europe to Java, where it is used as the basis for the production of batiks.
Description
Oiled plain weave white cotton cloth sample; step two in the Javanese batik process, 1915. This cloth is industrially produced and imported from Europe to Java, where it is used as the basis for the production of batiks. In this step, the cloth has been soaked in bean oil to give the dye applied later a clear, bright tone. Approximately 10" x 10"; Has four straight parallel lines drawn in on each side of the square to delineate borders. Second in a set of 14 process samples together with 22 finished items made by prisoners in Java for display at the 1915 Panama-Pacific Exposition in San Francisco. Purchased by the US National Museum for the Division of Textiles from the Netherlands East Indies Commission at the close of the Exposition.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1914-1915
ID Number
TE.T02907.000
catalog number
T02907.000
accession number
59191

Mallinson's "Javanesque" series; engineered blouse length

A length of block-printed Mallinson trade name "Indestructible" Voile. A sheer, plain weave silk fabric similar to chiffon.
Description
A length of block-printed Mallinson trade name "Indestructible" Voile. A sheer, plain weave silk fabric similar to chiffon. Printed with a dress or blouse pattern length; the material is ornamented with a block printed design (imitating batik work) which forms the front, back, and sleeves for the blouse or, as it might have been called when it was made, the "waist". H. R. Mallinson & Co. was one of many textile manufacturers who sought to reproduce the effects of hand-crafted batik (wax-resist dyeing) through more mechanized means. In this case the design was hand-block printed. Batik was very popular and fashionable in the late 1910s and early 1920s. The idea of laying the design out on the cloth (sometimes called engineering) so it could be stitched into a blouse with very little cutting was unusual at the time. This blouse length is incomplete, it shows only the neck area, sleeves, and the front (or back, difficult to know for sure) of the blouse. The complete blouse would have been symmetrical across the center of the neckline.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1919
maker
H. R. Mallinson & Co. Inc.
ID Number
TE.T04144
accession number
63914
catalog number
T04144.000

Javanese batik slendang or shoulder cloth, ca. 1914

Javanese batik slendang or shoulder cloth, ca. 1914. 96" L x 20" W length of cotton cloth with a batik design in blue and brown. Elongated central diamond in off-white, dark field, inner borders of wavy line with groups of dots; imitation fringe outer borders.
Description
Javanese batik slendang or shoulder cloth, ca. 1914. 96" L x 20" W length of cotton cloth with a batik design in blue and brown. Elongated central diamond in off-white, dark field, inner borders of wavy line with groups of dots; imitation fringe outer borders. Sometimes translated as a shawl or scarf, this textile could be worn by a Javanese woman as a wrapped upper body garment, or used as a carrying cloth.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca. 1914
ID Number
TE.T04324.000
catalog number
T04324.000
accession number
67243

Six skeins artificial silk, dyed; National Silk Dyeing Co., 1915

Six skeins of thrown artificial silk, dyed; National Silk Dyeing Co., 1915. Colors: pink, light blue, yellow, red, green, black..
Description
Six skeins of thrown artificial silk, dyed; National Silk Dyeing Co., 1915. Colors: pink, light blue, yellow, red, green, black.. Part of a donation of 63 samples representing the processes of silk skein-dyeing, and silk piece-dyeing and printing, given by the National Silk Dyeing Co of Paterson, New Jersey, in 1915. National Silk Dyeing Co., headquartered at 140 Market St., Paterson, NJ was formed from five silk dyeing firms in Peterson, NJ (Auger & Simon Silk Dyeing Company; Emil Geering Silk Dyeing Co., Knipscher & Maas Silk Dyeing Company, Kearns Brothers, and Gaede Silk Dyeing Co.) and a fifth company from Allentown, Pa. (Lotte Brothers under the leadership of Charles I. Auger. National Silk Dyeing immediately became one of the large silk dyeing conglomerates in the nation. It operated into the Great Depression but was eventually broken up and sold off.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1915
maker
National Silk Dyeing Co.
ID Number
TE.T02799.000
catalog number
T02799.000
accession number
58940
catalog number
T2799

Javanese batik man's headcloth, 1914

A Javanese batik man's headcloth, 1914. Square cotton headcloth in tan, brown, and blue; with central diamond reserve of natural off-white color, with an outline border in brown and blue, and a plain tan field. Plain narrow outer border. 41" square. Batik oedang.
Description
A Javanese batik man's headcloth, 1914. Square cotton headcloth in tan, brown, and blue; with central diamond reserve of natural off-white color, with an outline border in brown and blue, and a plain tan field. Plain narrow outer border. 41" square. Batik oedang. The tan field displays the crackle effect of the dye coming through cracks in the wax, leaving fine irregular lines of color.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1914
ca. 1914
ID Number
TE.T04327.000
catalog number
T04327.000
accession number
67243

Javanese batik book cover, for the western market, 1915

Javanese batik book cover, for the western market, 1915. Original cataloging identifies the motif as "Romo., and the price as 4 F. or $1.60, Brown and Indigo bllue on off white.
Description
Javanese batik book cover, for the western market, 1915. Original cataloging identifies the motif as "Romo., and the price as 4 F. or $1.60, Brown and Indigo bllue on off white. Densely patterned rectangles side by side on a larger rectangle, with a strip of a different pattern in between for the spine of the book, and two strips on the ends for folding into the inside of the book covers. 18" L x 10.5" W, unfolded. One of 22 finished batik textiles, together with 14 process samples, made by prisoners in Java for exhibition at the 1915 Panama-Pacific Exposition in San Francisco. Purchased by the US National Museum for the Division of Textiles from the Netherlands East Indies Commission at the close of the Exposition.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1914-1915
ID Number
TE.T02931.000
catalog number
T02931.000
accession number
59191

Cheney Brothers Silk Furnishing Velvet, 1913

Length of a Cheney Brothers silk furnishing velvet. All silk velvet, very supple. Renaissance revival pattern. Wine red.
Description (Brief)
Length of a Cheney Brothers silk furnishing velvet. All silk velvet, very supple. Renaissance revival pattern. Wine red. Construction; solid cut pile, pile weave (probably double-woven), varying pile density creates the pattern, dark (dense) against lighter (sparser pile, with the golden yellow ground showing through) red. Yarns: ground warp and weft – tan, pile – dark red. Pattern; Large conventionalized Renaissance revival floral palmette motif with ogee framing, 22 in. L, 3 motifs in width of fabric. (W. 37-1/2 in., L. 36 in.)
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1913
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T00105.000
catalog number
T00105.000
accession number
55080

Amoy Lace Guild Bobbin Lace Sample

This sample of handmade Chinese made torchon bobbin lace edging is labeled as costing “$.10 per yard in US gold” and is made of linen. It was acquired from the Amoy Lace Guild, Amoy (Xiamen), China, through Bureau of Foreign and Domestic Commerce, Department of Commerce in 1913.
Description
This sample of handmade Chinese made torchon bobbin lace edging is labeled as costing “$.10 per yard in US gold” and is made of linen. It was acquired from the Amoy Lace Guild, Amoy (Xiamen), China, through Bureau of Foreign and Domestic Commerce, Department of Commerce in 1913. The Amoy Lace Guild was established by missionaries in 1885 as a charitable organization to provide a source of income to indigent Chinese women and children. Patterns and linen thread was imported from England and Ireland. Lace from the Amoy Lace Guild won a silver medal at the St. Louis exposition in 1904. This sample has Spanish fans and an edge for a ribbon
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1900-1912
maker
Amoy Lace Guild
ID Number
TE.T00955
catalog number
T00955.000
accession number
55643

Cheney Brothers "Kioto" Dress or Furnishing Silk, 1915

Cheney Brothers "Kioto" Dress or Furnishing Silk, 1915. A light weight plain weave, frisson (spun silk fabric) with coarse silk filling.
Description (Brief)
Cheney Brothers "Kioto" Dress or Furnishing Silk, 1915. A light weight plain weave, frisson (spun silk fabric) with coarse silk filling. Printed with a Persian and Indian inspired design with garden-like fruit and cypress tree elements, paired birds, peacocks, architectural elements, in island layout in blue, green, pink, tan on black ground. (W. 30 in., L. 36 in.)
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1915
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T02640.000
catalog number
T02640.000
accession number
58458

Cheney Brothers Printed Crepe Velour Silk, 1916

A sample length of Cheney Brothers printed apparel silk "crepe velour", 1916. 40" width. This is a sample length of the second of two colorways: A- black, green, and pinks on white and B -pinks, green, and lavender on purple.
Description
A sample length of Cheney Brothers printed apparel silk "crepe velour", 1916. 40" width. This is a sample length of the second of two colorways: A- black, green, and pinks on white and B -pinks, green, and lavender on purple. Japonisme design of scattered chrysanthemum sprigs, imitation of an ikat or warp print. A thin, lightweight, plain weave silk, similar to Mallinson's Pussy Willow tradename.
Original cataloging: Printed crepe velour. A light weight silk with a crepey finish, chrysanthemum pattern. Colors: black and pink on white and white and pink on blue. Cheney Brothers. Sample shows significant fading. 3" x 4.5" and 6" x 8" pieces cut from corners of the sample. (W. 40 in., L. 36 in.)
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1913
date made
1916
maker
Cheney Brothers
ID Number
TE.T02826.00B
catalog number
T02826.00B

Skeins of chenille embroidery yarns

Skeins of chenille and worsted embroidery yarns. Packages marked "Utopia Brand", "L.S. & B., N.Y.", and "H.E.F., New York"; in yellow, dark green, and dark red. Found in the attic of "Hill House", "the Shadows", Alexandria, Virginia.
Description
Skeins of chenille and worsted embroidery yarns. Packages marked "Utopia Brand", "L.S. & B., N.Y.", and "H.E.F., New York"; in yellow, dark green, and dark red. Found in the attic of "Hill House", "the Shadows", Alexandria, Virginia. Family line runs from Ida Melissa Hill (b.1850) to Melissa Lovejoy Hill (b. 1877) to Harriet L. Hill (b. 1912). Any of these women might have used these yarns in their embroidery. Chenille work was popular from the mid 19th century into the 20th.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca. 1875 - ca. 1910
ID Number
TE.T12652.00A
catalog number
T12652.00A
accession number
235870

Amoy Lace Guild Bobbin Lace Sample

This sample of handmade cluny style bobbin lace insertion has leaves and braids in sunflower motifs. It was made at the Amoy Lace Guild in China and sold for thirty-five cents per yard in US gold in 1913.
Description
This sample of handmade cluny style bobbin lace insertion has leaves and braids in sunflower motifs. It was made at the Amoy Lace Guild in China and sold for thirty-five cents per yard in US gold in 1913. The Amoy Lace Guild was established by missionaries in 1885 as a charitable organization to provide a source of income to indigent Chinese women and children. Patterns and linen thread was imported from England and Ireland. Lace from the Amoy Lace Guild won a silver medal at the St. Louis exposition in 1904.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1905-1912
1900-1912
maker
Amoy Lace Guild
ID Number
TE.T00933
catalog number
T00933.000
accession number
55643

Chinese Made Torchon Bobbin Lace Sample

This sample of handmade torchon bobbin lace has motifs with Spanish fans, diamond shapes, roseground, and trails. It was made at the Amoy Lace Guild in China and sold for thirty cents per yard in US gold in 1913.
Description
This sample of handmade torchon bobbin lace has motifs with Spanish fans, diamond shapes, roseground, and trails. It was made at the Amoy Lace Guild in China and sold for thirty cents per yard in US gold in 1913. The Amoy Lace Guild was established by missionaries in 1885 as a charitable organization to provide a source of income to indigent Chinese women and children. Patterns and linen thread was imported from England and Ireland. Lace from the Amoy Lace Guild won a silver medal at the St. Louis exposition in 1904.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1900-1912
1910-1912
maker
Amoy Lace Guild
ID Number
TE.T00915
catalog number
T00915.000
accession number
55643

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