Textiles

Coverlet

The 50,000 objects in the textile collections fall into two main categories: raw fibers, yarns, and fabrics, and machines, tools, and other textile technology. Shawls, coverlets, samplers, laces, linens, synthetics, and other fabrics are part of the first group, along with the 400 quilts in the National Quilt Collection. Some of the Museum's most popular artifacts, such as the Star-Spangled Banner and the gowns of the first ladies, have an obvious textile connection.

The machinery and tools include spinning wheels, sewing machines, thimbles, needlework tools, looms, and an invention that changed the course of American agriculture and society. A model of Eli Whitney's cotton gin, made by the inventor in the early 1800s, shows the workings of a machine that helped make cotton plantations profitable in the South and encouraged the spread of slavery.

Date: 1900s

Nañduti lace square, quartrefoil shape, late 19th century

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
Late 19th century
ID Number
TE.T15207
catalog number
T15207
accession number
290897

Knitted Mittens

These mittens were knitted of blue and white homespun wools in the early 19th century.
Description
These mittens were knitted of blue and white homespun wools in the early 19th century. The shag knit used at the wrists is recorded in an American diary of 1803 as the "new Mode of Knitting." The knitted pattern throughout the mittens is a poem that starts at the wrist of one mitten, spirals to the top, and continues from the wrist to the top of the second. The "Xs" are part of the design and are used as line delimiters. The poem reads, "One thing you must not borrow nor never give awayXFor he who borrows trouble will have it every dayXBut if you have a plenty and more then you can bearXIt will not lighten yoursXXif others have a shareXYou must learn to be contented then will your trouble ceaseXAnd then you may be certain that you will live in peaceXFor a contented mind is a continual feast."
The thumb of each mitten is adorned with the name "William Watson." A printer of cheap or penny papers named William Watson was active in London from about 1805 to 1830. Each of his publications contained a woodcut, a story, and a poem. The Library of Congress has only one example of his papers, but its poem is of comparable length, and of the same moralizing quality as the mittens' poem, offering a direction for further research.
In No Idle Hands, The Social History of American Knitting (New York: Ballantine Books, 1988), Anne L. Macdonald pictures a single mitten patterned with half of the same poem. An undated newspaper clipping attributes it to Margaret Evans of New Hampshire, possibly 18th century. The thumb of the Evans mitten appears to say, "Son 4 U Mother" and "80." At the beginning of the poem of this pair of mittens, there are two initials or numbers, perhaps "OB" or "DB" or "08" or "80." Patterns for short inscriptions and dates in knitting were published from at least the late 18th century.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
early 19th century
ID Number
1979.0980.01
catalog number
1979.0980.01
accession number
1979.0980

"Star and Table;" overshot coverlet; multi-harness; c. 1800-1830; likely Pennsylvania

This is a red, white, and blue, cotton and wool, multi-harness, overshot coverlet woven in a complex “Star and Table” pattern with long warp self-fringe and shorter weft self-fringe. There is a center seam, indicating hand-loom weaving.
Description
This is a red, white, and blue, cotton and wool, multi-harness, overshot coverlet woven in a complex “Star and Table” pattern with long warp self-fringe and shorter weft self-fringe. There is a center seam, indicating hand-loom weaving. The coverlet measures 79 inches by 71.5 inches. There is little information about the provenance of this coverlet; however, most of the complex overshot star and diamond coverlets were created in the counties just west of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. The weavers of these coverlets were master weavers and used looms with upward of twenty-six shafts, which allowed them to pack in minute detail into a rather small space. The weaver’s use of red, and blue wool yarns contrasting against the white, cotton ground-cloth create a stunning visual.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
19th century
c. 1800-1830
ID Number
TE.T18667
catalog number
T18667.000
accession number
144093

Point ground bobbin lace border

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
3rd quarter 19th century
ID Number
TE.E378825B
catalog number
E378825.00B
accession number
145341

Coverlet; diamond twill weave; 19th century; prob. Pennsylvania

This coverlet is an example of a diamond twill weave coverlet. The weaver used 2-ply S-twist Z-spun red and indigo wool and white cotton warp and weft to create the pattern.
Description
This coverlet is an example of a diamond twill weave coverlet. The weaver used 2-ply S-twist Z-spun red and indigo wool and white cotton warp and weft to create the pattern. The weaver’s use of color to create the diamond figures formed by weave brings out red and blue diamonds on alternate blocks, creating a textural and visually stunning textile. There is self-fringe along three sides and an applied satin tape along the upper edge which may be a latter addition. The coverlet was woven as one length, cut, and sewn up the middle to create the completed width. This coverlet is in overall excellent condition.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
19th century
maker
unknown
ID Number
TE.T14563
catalog number
T14563.000
accession number
277985

Point de Gaze Edgings With Raised Rose Petals

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
19th century, 3rd quarter
ID Number
TE.T11791B
catalog number
T11791.00B

Cardwork Mat with Greeting Card

This cardwork picture frame contains a printed Christmas card greeting. The frame is embroidered with variegated red wool on a dark gray card.
Description
This cardwork picture frame contains a printed Christmas card greeting. The frame is embroidered with variegated red wool on a dark gray card. Cardwork embroidery was a popular form of needlework in the mid 19th century, and was frequently used for small items such as bookmarks and stamp covers. The perforated card was covered with holes in a grid pattern so that a design could be worked in either wool or silk threads, frequently embellished with beads.
Location
Currently not on view
Date made
1850-1900
ID Number
1986.1023.288
accession number
1986.1023

lace

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
Late 18th - early 19th C
ID Number
TE.T14322
catalog number
T14322.000

Border of Tønder bobbin lace

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
19th c
ID Number
1984.0111.251
accession number
1984.0111

Skirt panels?

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
19th century, early
ID Number
TE.T14950B
catalog number
T14950.00B
accession number
284727

"Single Snowball and Pine Tree" coverlet; geometric double-cloth; 19th century

This red, white, and blue, geometric, double-cloth coverlet features a “Single Snowball” pattern centerfield and “Pine Tree” border.
Description
This red, white, and blue, geometric, double-cloth coverlet features a “Single Snowball” pattern centerfield and “Pine Tree” border. These patterns were developed in the German States of the Holy Roman Empire at the end of the seventeenth century and were initially used in damask linen weaving on a much smaller scale. Several German weavers published books during the Early Modern period, and they were translated into numerous languages and this style of block weaving, as it is known, spread across Europe. Immigrant weavers brought these structures and pattern to the United States, increased the scale of the patterns and wove them as double cloth both for coverlets and ingrain carpet. This coverlet was woven as one length, cut, folded back on itself, and seamed up the middle to create the finished coverlet. The coverlet measures 83 inches by 63 inches, and there are traces of self-fringe along the bottom edge. The “Pine Tree” borders found along three sides were created from fractional reduction of the main block patterning. While women were fully capable of weaving overshot and summer and winter coverlets on their own simple looms, many of the geometric double loom patterns required looms with multiple shafts and are traditionally associated with male, professional weavers. There is no information about who may have woven this coverlet or where it may have come from.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
19th century
ID Number
TE.T13665
catalog number
T13665.000
accession number
262261

Fichu or Collar in Bruges Flower Lace

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
Victorian
late 19th C
ID Number
TE.T14335
catalog number
T14335.000

Undulating Wool Bobbin Lace Flounce

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
late 19th c
ID Number
1984.0111.192
accession number
1984.0111

border

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
19th century
ID Number
TE.T12140E
catalog number
T12140.00E
accession number
155818

Italian reticella needle lace edging; 1850-75

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1875-1900
ID Number
TE.T12113
catalog number
T12113.000
accession number
230142

Coverlet, overshot, "Double Chariot Wheel;" 1790-1825

This orange/rust and blue, all-wool, overshot coverlet was woven in a “Double Chariot Wheel” pattern. The coverlet has fringe along two edges, suggesting that this coverlet may originally have been three panels rather than two. The lower fringe is a self-fringe.
Description
This orange/rust and blue, all-wool, overshot coverlet was woven in a “Double Chariot Wheel” pattern. The coverlet has fringe along two edges, suggesting that this coverlet may originally have been three panels rather than two. The lower fringe is a self-fringe. The fringe on the side is applied. The coverlet is composed of two panels, (possibly three initially), woven as one length and seamed up the center to create the finished coverlet width. The warp yarns are a golden rust, 2-ply, S-twist, Z-spun wool. The ground weft is golden rust, 2-ply, S-twist, Z-spun wool. The supplementary pattern weft is blue 2-ply, S-twist, Z-spun wool yarn. The yarn count was 20 warp ends by 9 weft ends per inch.s per inch.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1790-1810
late 18th century
early 19th century
maker
unknown
ID Number
1981.0274.08
accession number
1981.0274
catalog number
1981.0274.08

Brussels Bobbin Lace applique

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
l860-1900
ID Number
TE.E317339
catalog number
E317339.000

Fragment of Argentan and Alencon Needle Lace

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
late 19th C
ID Number
TE.T14363
accession number
278083
catalog number
T14363

Alencon lace border on machine net

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
mid 19th century?
ID Number
TE.T16252
catalog number
T16252.000
accession number
300957

Binche Bobbin Lace Lappet

Currently not on view
Location
Currently not on view
date made
19th c
ID Number
TE.T15346A
catalog number
T15346.00A

Geometric Cluny Bobbin Lace Border

Cluny bobbin lace borderCurrently not on view
Description (Brief)
Cluny bobbin lace border
Location
Currently not on view
date made
19th C
ID Number
TE.L6909
catalog number
L6909.000
accession number
50762

Summer-and-Winter coverlet; c. 1790-1820; Connecticut

This blue and white, cotton and wool geometric coverlet is an excellent example of the structure known as Summer-and-Winter. There is a lot of apocryphal and mythological information circulating about the origins of this structure.
Description
This blue and white, cotton and wool geometric coverlet is an excellent example of the structure known as Summer-and-Winter. There is a lot of apocryphal and mythological information circulating about the origins of this structure. Is it an American invention or a European holdover? It is quite likely we will never know. Summer-and-Winter weave is an overshot weave with stricter rules. The supplementary warp yarn cannot float over more than two warp yarns. This creates a tighter fabric and also gives Summer-and-Winter its light (Summer) side and its darker (Winter) side. The weaver used a pattern most commonly known as "Cup and Saucer" with no border. A woven fringe has been pieced and applied around three edges of the coverlet. The coverlet is constructed from two panels which were woven as one length, cut, and sewn together to create the finished width. Each section is 39.5 inches wide, and the coverlet measures 85 inches by 79 inches. This coverlet descended through the donor’s family and was made in Connecticut between 1790 and 1820.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
early 19th century
c. 1790-1820
ID Number
TE.T16372
catalog number
T16372.000
accession number
300918

Border of Late 19th C Danish Tønder Bobbin Lace

Strip of Tønder bobbin lace likely made in Denmark in the late 19th century of cotton with linen gimp (outline). The pattern repeat is 8.2 cm longCurrently not on view
Description (Brief)
Strip of Tønder bobbin lace likely made in Denmark in the late 19th century of cotton with linen gimp (outline). The pattern repeat is 8.2 cm long
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1875-1900
ID Number
TE.L7018

Yoke of Woman's Bodice

Bobbin lace yoke of woman's bodice cut from larger piece of lace. Milanese type tape lace, all bobbin madeCurrently not on view
Description (Brief)
Bobbin lace yoke of woman's bodice cut from larger piece of lace. Milanese type tape lace, all bobbin made
Location
Currently not on view
date made
19th Century
ID Number
TE.L7291
catalog number
L7291.000
accession number
52735

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