"Bishop" dress silk, A "Martine" design

Description
A "Martine" silk by the Duplan Silk Company of Hazleton, PA. This design titled "Bishop", on quality "Ruisselet" a warp-faced weave with much thicker weft yarns than warp yarns, having a crinkled texture. Printed design of scattered stylized scrolls and flowers on a dark blue ground. This example was cylinder printed. Duplan's publicity touts this series of silk dress fabrics as"Woven, printed, and finished in the US, sold and delivered in Paris and London. Designs by the Martine School of Decorative Art, Paris, France. Directed, owned, and personally supervised by Mr. Paul Poiret, who is universally acknowledged as the greatest creator of women's fashions of the present century." In the press these were called "Futurist Flowers", and there were supposedly 8 designs in total that Duplan licensed from Poiret. The NMAH Textiles collection holds six samples, four designs, two designs in two colorways on two different ground cloths.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1914
maker
Duplan Silk Corp.
designer
Poiret, Paul
place made
United States: Pennsylvania, Hazleton
Physical Description
silk (overall material)
dark blue ground (overall color)
red (overall color)
green (overall color)
gold (overall color)
woven (overall production method/technique)
cylinder printed (overall material)
Measurements
overall: 36 in x 42 1/2 in; 91.44 cm x 107.95 cm
ID Number
TE*T01219
accession number
56671
catalog number
T01219.000
Credit Line
Gift of the Duplan Silk Company
subject
American Silk Industry
Fashion
See more items in
Home and Community Life: Textiles
Duplan Silk Co.
American Silks
Textiles
Data Source
National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center

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