"Bishop" dress silk, A "Martine" design

A "Martine" silk by the Duplan Silk Company of Hazleton, PA. This design titled "Bishop", on quality "Ruisselet" a warp-faced weave with much thicker weft yarns than warp yarns, having a crinkled texture. Printed design of scattered stylized scrolls and flowers on a dark blue ground. This example was cylinder printed. Duplan's publicity touts this series of silk dress fabrics as"Woven, printed, and finished in the US, sold and delivered in Paris and London. Designs by the Martine School of Decorative Art, Paris, France. Directed, owned, and personally supervised by Mr. Paul Poiret, who is universally acknowledged as the greatest creator of women's fashions of the present century." In the press these were called "Futurist Flowers", and there were supposedly 8 designs in total that Duplan licensed from Poiret. The NMAH Textiles collection holds six samples, four designs, two designs in two colorways on two different ground cloths.
Currently not on view
Object Name
fabric length
date made
Duplan Silk Corp.
Poiret, Paul
Physical Description
silk (overall material)
dark blue ground (overall color)
red (overall color)
green (overall color)
gold (overall color)
woven (overall production method/technique)
cylinder printed (overall material)
overall: 36 in x 42 1/2 in; 91.44 cm x 107.95 cm
place made
United States: Pennsylvania, Hazleton
ID Number
accession number
catalog number
Duplan Silk Co.
American Silks
American Silk Industry
See more items in
Home and Community Life: Textiles
Duplan Silk Co.
American Silks
Data Source
National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Credit Line
Gift of the Duplan Silk Company
Additional Media

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