Clothing & Accessories - Overview

Work, play, fashion, economic class, religious faith, even politics—all these aspects of American life and more are woven into clothing. The Museum cares for one of the nation's foremost collections of men's, women's, and children's garments and accessories—from wedding gowns and military uniforms to Halloween costumes and bathing suits.
The collections include work uniforms, academic gowns, clothing of presidents and first ladies, T-shirts bearing protest slogans, and a clean-room "bunny suit" from a manufacturer of computer microchips. Beyond garments, the collections encompass jewelry, handbags, hair dryers, dress forms, hatboxes, suitcases, salesmen's samples, and thousands of fashion prints, photographs, and original illustrations. The more than 30,000 artifacts here represent the changing appearance of Americans from the 1700s to the present day.
"Clothing & Accessories - Overview" showing 102 items.
Page 1 of 11
Falsified Passport
- Description
- This Thai passport was seized in the well-publicized 1995 El Monte, Calif., sweatshop raid. The passport is part of a larger Smithsonian collection of artifacts documenting apparel industry sweatshops, focusing on the El Monte operation (72 workers were discovered working as slaves). With a legitimate U.S. visa, the passport looks official. In fact, the El Monte operators doctored a real passport, inserting a new photo into someone else's document, in order to smuggle workers into the country.
- Recruited from Thailand, the El Monte workers were tricked into accepting employment by misrepresentations of their future working and living conditions. They were told they would sew in a clean factory, receive good pay, and have the weekends off. They were even shown photographs of company parties and outings to Disneyland. After signing contracts (indenture agreements) committing themselves to repay 120,000 baht (about $5,000 in 1997 dollars), they were smuggled into the United States on fraudulent passports.
- On arrival, the sweatshop operators confiscated the passports and the workers were forced to sew 18 hours a day seven days a week. The debt, a guard force, and threats of physical harm to the workers and their families in Thailand discouraged them from escaping. Although the physical confinement of the work force was unusual, many aspects of the business, such as recruiting and smuggling workers, are relatively common. Less enslaving forms of debt peonage occur surprisingly often in some Asian immigrant communities.
- Sweatshops occur in many sectors of manufacturing, but are most often associated with the garment industry. While garments are designed and marketed through big name companies, assembly is often left to contract and sub-contract operations. In these small shops, where profits are razor thin and competition is excessive, abuses are rampant.
- ID Number
- 1997.0268.01
- accession number
- 1997.0268
- catalog number
- 1997.0268.01
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Delaware Company Cape
- Description
- Some early American firefighters wore capes for protection, ornamentation, and identification. The stiff oil cloth protected their shoulders and upper body against fiery embers and water, and the decorative painting served to identify company members at chaotic fire scenes or on parade. The capes were often painted by local sign painters, some skilled artists like John A. Woodside, who also painted the company’s hats and banners and decorated their fire engines. Many of the capes in the firefighting collection display patriotic names and symbolism, reflecting themes important to 19th century volunteers, as well as the pride they felt in the early founding date of their fire company.
- This oil cloth cape is painted blue, with the company name “Delaware” in gold with black shading and the date "1821" in gold with red shading. The company number "4" is at each end of the cape in gold with black shading. The cape was most likely from the Delaware Fire Company based in Trenton, New Jersey, founded in 1821. The cords on this cape are still intact and show how these rather heavy capes would be tied around the fireman’s neck.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- date made
- 1840-1850
- maker
- unknown
- ID Number
- 2005.0233.0122
- catalog number
- 2005.0233.0122
- accession number
- 2005.0233
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Firefighter's Parade Helmet
- Description
- Worn by Peter Zeluff, assistant chief engineer
- Location
- Currently not on view
- date made
- 1883-1885
- user
- Zeluff, Peter
- maker
- Cairns & Brother
- ID Number
- 2005.0233.0015
- accession number
- 2005.0233
- catalog number
- 2005.0233.0015
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Allegheny Parade Hat
- Description
- Beginning in the late 18th century, some volunteer fire fighters began to wear hats painted with their company’s name to identify themselves at chaotic fire scenes. During the 19th century, these fire hats became more ornate, as portraits of historical figures, patriotic scenes, allegorical images, or company icons were painted alongside the company’s name, motto, or founding date. Made of pressed felt, these “stove-pipe” hats were primarily used in Philadelphia, but other nearby cities such as Baltimore and Washington adopted them as well. Fire hats were personal items with the owner’s initials often painted on the top of the hat. While these hats were worn at fires, they are more colloquially known as “parade hats.” Fire companies commonly marched in the many parades of the period and these ornate hats contributed to the visual culture of their day. These distinguishing features in a company’s regalia often proclaimed the members’ cultural and political identity as well as their position on contested topics such as work, religion and immigration.
- This hat dates to the first half of the 19th century from Allegheny, Pennsylvania. The hat has been painted red, and bears the text “ALLEGHENY” in gold above a United States shield. The date “1802” is painted in gold on the back of the hat, and the crown of the hat has a star shaped designed with the letter “A” in the center. The Allegheny Fire Company of Allegheny, Pennsylvania was founded in 1802 and operated until 1870, when it was absorbed by the municipal fire department.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- in use
- 1802-1870
- company which the hat's owner belonged to
- Allegheny Engine Co.
- owner
- Neel, Harry
- maker
- unknown
- ID Number
- 2005.0233.0026
- catalog number
- 2005.0233.0026
- accession number
- 2005.0233
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Citizen Fire Company Parade Hat
- Description
- In the early 1800s, classical images associated with Greece and Rome became popular in America. In art and architecture, Americans sought to link their young nation to these republics of antiquity. The Roman goddess Libertas, representing personal sovereignty, was changed into Lady Liberty and adopted as an American symbol. The Citizen Fire Company chose Liberty as their emblem at its founding in 1836. Depicted on this parade hat, the female figure holds an American shield in one hand representing strength and protection. The red liberty cap atop a pole in Liberty's other hand was an internationally known symbol of the American Revolution that was also adopted from the Roman Empire.
- Date made
- c.1840-1860
- associated
- Citizen Fire Company #3
- maker
- unknown
- ID Number
- 2005.0233.0027
- catalog number
- 2005.0233.0027
- accession number
- 2005.0233
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Columbia Parade Hat
- Description
- Beginning in the late 18th century, some volunteer fire fighters began to wear hats painted with their company’s name to identify themselves at chaotic fire scenes. During the 19th century, these fire hats became more ornate, as portraits of historical figures, patriotic scenes, allegorical images, or company icons were painted alongside the company’s name, motto, or founding date. Made of pressed felt, these “stove-pipe” hats were primarily used in Philadelphia, but other nearby cities such as Baltimore and Washington adopted them as well. Fire hats were personal items with the owner’s initials often painted on the top of the hat. While these hats were worn at fires, they are more colloquially known as “parade hats.” Fire companies commonly marched in the many parades of the period and these ornate hats contributed to the visual culture of their day. These distinguishing features in a company’s regalia often proclaimed the members’ cultural and political identity as well as their position on contested topics such as work, religion and immigration.
- This hat was used in the eastern United States during the first half of the 19th century. The hat is painted dark brown overall, with an image of a spread-winged eagle grasping an anchor in its claws. A banner arches over the eagle’s head that reads “Columbia.” The company’s initials “CEC” (Columbia Engine Company) are painted in gold calligraphic script on the back of the hat. The crown of the hat features the owner’s initials “S.H.R.” painted in gold inside a gold shield. The bald eagle was adopted by the Continental Congress as the national symbol of the United States in 1782. As a patriotic symbol of liberty and freedom, the eagle was a frequently used icon among early American volunteer fire departments. The anchor in the eagle’s claw represents hope and safety.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- date made
- 1810-1860
- maker
- unknown
- ID Number
- 2005.0233.0029
- catalog number
- 2005.0233.0029
- accession number
- 2005.0233
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Columbia Hose Company Fire Hat
- Description
- Beginning in the late 18th century, some volunteer fire fighters began to wear hats painted with their company’s name to identify themselves at chaotic fire scenes. During the 19th century, these fire hats became more ornate, as portraits of historical figures, patriotic scenes, allegorical images, or company icons were painted alongside the company’s name, motto, or founding date. Made of pressed felt, these “stove-pipe” hats were primarily used in Philadelphia, but other nearby cities such as Baltimore and Washington adopted them as well. Fire hats were personal items with the owner’s initials often painted on the top of the hat. While these hats were worn at fires, they are more colloquially known as “parade hats.” Fire companies commonly marched in the many parades of the period and these ornate hats contributed to the visual culture of their day. These distinguishing features in a company’s regalia often proclaimed the members’ cultural and political identity as well as their position on contested topics such as work, religion and immigration.
- This hat was used in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania during the first half of the 19th century. The hat is painted light blue, with an image of a spread-winged eagle in front of a sunburst gripping a red banner in its talons that reads “COLUMBIA HOSE COMPANY” in gold. The company’s initials “CHC” (Columbia Hose Company) are painted in gold calligraphic script on the back of the hat. The owner’s initials “J.M.I.” are painted in gold on the crown of the hat. The Columbia Hose Company of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania was founded in 1806, on the block of 7th and Cherry Streets. The bald eagle was adopted by the Continental Congress as the national symbol of the United States in 1782 and was a frequently used icon among early American volunteer fire departments.
- date made
- 1810-1860
- associated
- Columbia Hose Company
- maker
- unknown
- ID Number
- 2005.0233.0030
- catalog number
- 2005.0233.0030
- accession number
- 2005.0233
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Decatur Fire Engine Company Fire Hat
- Description
- Beginning in the late 18th century, some volunteer fire fighters began to wear hats painted with their company’s name to identify themselves at chaotic fire scenes. During the 19th century, these fire hats became more ornate, as portraits of historical figures, patriotic scenes, allegorical images, or company icons were painted alongside the company’s name, motto, or founding date. Made of pressed felt, these “stove-pipe” hats were primarily used in Philadelphia, but other nearby cities such as Baltimore and Washington adopted them as well. Fire hats were personal items with the owner’s initials often painted on the top of the hat. While these hats were worn at fires, they are more colloquially known as “parade hats.” Fire companies commonly marched in the many parades of the period and these ornate hats contributed to the visual culture of their day. These distinguishing features in a company’s regalia often proclaimed the members’ cultural and political identity as well as their position on contested topics such as work, religion and immigration.
- This hat was used in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania during the first half of the 19th century. The hat has been painted red with a portrait of Commodore Stephen Decatur framed in gold. American flags and black banners with gold trim surround the portrait. The banners bear the gold text “DECATUR/F.E. CO.” The back of the hat features a gold painted image of an early fire hydrant with gushing hose attached, flanked by the letters “FA”. This was the logo of the Fire Association of Philadelphia, an insurance company founded by a group of eleven volunteer engine companies and five volunteer hose companies in 1817. The top of the hat bears the owner’s initials “N.C.” painted in gold. The engine company was founded in 1803 in the Frankford neighborhood of Philadelphia. Originally known as Good Will, the company soon renamed itself after Stephen Decatur, the famous naval officer and hero of the War of 1812, whose father had resided in Frankford.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- date made
- 1810-1860
- depicted
- Decatur, Stephen
- maker
- unknown
- ID Number
- 2005.0233.0031
- catalog number
- 2005.0233.0031
- accession number
- 2005.0233
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Diligent Hose Company Fire Hat
- Description
- The Diligent Hose Company chose a beehive as their primary icon. It has been a symbol of industry, hard work, and cooperation used by many different organizations. The beehive, along with their name of Diligent, implies that the members persistently worked together to serve the community in their role as firemen. Although the beehive and five-pointed star are also Masonic symbols, that does not necessarily link company members to the society. Many Masonic emblems were well known and used by other organizations around the time of the Revolution. A fire company and a Masonic lodge were similar in their male-only, predominantly artisan membership.
- Date made
- 1820-1860
- maker
- unknown
- ID Number
- 2005.0233.0032
- catalog number
- 2005.0233.0032
- accession number
- 2005.0233
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Eagle Fire Company Fire Hat
- Description
- Beginning in the late 18th century, some volunteer fire fighters began to wear hats painted with their company’s name to identify themselves at chaotic fire scenes. During the 19th century, these fire hats became more ornate, as portraits of historical figures, patriotic scenes, allegorical images, or company icons were painted alongside the company’s name, motto, or founding date. Made of pressed felt, these “stove-pipe” hats were primarily used in Philadelphia, but other nearby cities such as Baltimore and Washington adopted them as well. Fire hats were personal items with the owner’s initials often painted on the top of the hat. While these hats were worn at fires, they are more colloquially known as “parade hats.” Fire companies commonly marched in the many parades of the period and these ornate hats contributed to the visual culture of their day. These distinguishing features in a company’s regalia often proclaimed the members’ cultural and political identity as well as their position on contested topics such as work, religion and immigration.
- This pressed felt fire hat was used in the eastern United States during the first half of the 19th century. The hat is painted black overall, with the text “Eagle Fire/Co.” in gold paint with red shadowing on the front. The back of the hat features a yellow image of a wooden fire hydrant flanked by the date “1821.” The crown of the hat has a shield with red and white stripes and the initials “A.C.” This hat likely belonged to a member of the Eagle Fire Company of Trenton, New Jersey that was founded in 1821.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- date made
- 1820-1860
- associated
- Eagle Fire Company
- maker
- unknown
- ID Number
- 2005.0233.0033
- catalog number
- 2005.0233.0033
- accession number
- 2005.0233
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
- Next Page

