Textiles - Overview
The 50,000 objects in the textile collections fall into two main categories: raw fibers, yarns, and fabrics, and machines, tools, and other textile technology. Shawls, coverlets, samplers, laces, linens, synthetics, and other fabrics are part of the first group, along with the 400 quilts in the National Quilt Collection. Some of the Museum's most popular artifacts, such as the Star-Spangled Banner and the gowns of the first ladies, have an obvious textile connection.
The machinery and tools include spinning wheels, sewing machines, thimbles, needlework tools, looms, and an invention that changed the course of American agriculture and society. A model of Eli Whitney's cotton gin, made by the inventor in the early 1800s, shows the workings of a machine that helped make cotton plantations profitable in the South and encouraged the spread of slavery.
"Textiles - Overview" showing 31 items.
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1760 Eve Van Cortlandt's Quilted Counterpane
- Description
- Eve Van Cortlandt's fine white linen quilted counterpane is one of the earliest dated American quilts in existence. The date, "1760" and her initials, "E V C," are embroidered in blue silk cross-stitch on the quilt lining. Quilted with white linen thread, a delicate pattern of flowers, feathery stems, and low open baskets surround a central quatrefoil medallion. The design is set off by a background of quilted parallel lines just one-eighth inch apart.
- Eve was born on May 22, 1736, to Frederick Van Cortlandt and Francena Jay each from families of wealthy and prominent New York landowners. She made her quilt for her dower chest while living in the family home. In 1761, Eve married the Honorable Henry White, a businessman and a member of the King’s Council of the Royal Colony of New York. He became president of the New York Chamber of Commerce in 1772 and remained loyal to the King of England during the Revolution.
- When the British evacuated New York in 1783, Henry moved his family to England. Henry White died in London in 1786, and Eve returned to America as a widow, most likely to be near two of her children who lived in New York. Of their five children, two sons were in the British service and remained in London, as did one daughter. Eve died in 1836 at the age of one hundred, having witnessed a century of historic events. Since 1897, the family home in Van Cortlandt Park in the Bronx has been a museum.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- Date made
- 1760
- quilter
- Van Cortlandt, Eve
- ID Number
- 1979.0184.01
- catalog number
- 1979.0184.01
- accession number
- 1979.0184
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Linen Overshot Coverlet 1790
- Description
- Elizabeth Deuel is said to have made this single-woven, all linen coverlet in1790, in the Saratoga region of New York State. Her name and the date are cross-stitched into the lower edge of the coverlet just above the fringe. A search of the 1790 census of the area produced no one with the surname Deuel. More research is needed to determine where Miss Deuel lived, and if she was the weaver or the owner of this coverlet. In the 18th century, it was common for household textiles to be marked with the initials or name of the owner and the date. The average colonial home did not have a great number of household textiles, and they were considered important possessions. This coverlet was woven in two sections that were then sewn together.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- date made
- late 18th century
- 1790
- weaver or owner
- Deuel, Elizabeth
- maker or owner of coverlet
- Deuel, Elizabeth
- ID Number
- 1981.0274.005
- accession number
- 1981.0274
- catalog number
- 1981.0274.05
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
1830 Jane Valentine's "Irish Chain" Quilt
- Description
- On the front of this “Irish Chain”-patterned quilt is found an inscription in ink: “Commenced in 1825 & Finished in 1830 by Mifs Jane Valentine Scipio Cayuga Co. N.Y. No. of Pieced Blocks 168 Small Blocks 4,2,42." Another inscription in a different hand and ink on a back corner states: “My Mothers 5040 Blocks 1832 In Case of My death to be given to My Sister Hattie Blodgett.”
- The quilt is made of 3-inch plain and pieced blocks. The blocks are comprised of about 130 different roller-printed cottons with small print motifs. An examination of the quilt reveals that there are 348 white blocks and 348 pieced blocks; the segments of the pieced blocks are 5/8-inch square, and there are 10,092 of them. Diagonal grid quilting follows the “chain.” The plain white blocks are quilted, 6 stitches per inch, with a floral motif. The “Irish Chain” pattern was in use in the early 1800s and may have been adapted from weaving patterns.
- Margaret Jane Valentine was the daughter of Peter Valentine (1784-1865) and Elizabeth Hilliker. Jane married Benjamin Brown Jr. on November 16, 1831. Harriet Brown was born in 1848 and married Charles Blodgett. It was Mrs. Harriet E. Blodgett who in 1915 donated this quilt and a coverlet. At the time she wrote that the quilt was “. . . pieced by my mother. Commenced in 1825 when she was about fourteen finished 1830. . . I feel a great desire to put them [both quilt and coverlet] where they will be preserved.”
- Location
- Currently not on view
- date made
- 1830
- maker
- Valentine, Jane
- ID Number
- TE*E287383
- accession number
- 58478
- catalog number
- E287383
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Jacob Impson Coverlet
- Description
- The weaver of this Jacquard double-woven cotton and wool coverlet, Jacob Impson (1802—1869), worked first in Ludlowville, New York, and then in Cortland Village, New York. His name, the name of the owner (Lois Burnham) and the date 1834 appear in both of the lower corners of this coverlet. The words “Lady’s Fancy” (which may be the name of the design) appear across the upper edge of the border, and the words, “Cortland Village” appear across the lower area of the border, just above the finished edge. This coverlet was made at the height of the “Fancy” period (1790—1840) in the decorative arts. During the “Fancy” period, items were covered with bright designs with lots of movement rather than the classical motifs used in other periods. This coverlet was woven in two pieces and sewn together.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- date made
- 1834
- owner
- Burnham, Lois
- weaver
- Impson, Jacob
- ID Number
- TE*T008113
- catalog number
- T08113.000
- accession number
- 144578
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Snowballs and Pine Tree Coverlet
- Description
- This blue and white cotton and wool coverlet features a variation of the Snowball pattern in the center, and a variation of the Pine Tree pattern along its borders. It is double-woven and believed to have been made in New York State in the first half of the 19th century. It was passed down through the family of the original owner to the donor, before being given to the Museum. The name of the weaver is unknown. Its condition is testimony to many years of use. Coverlets are damaged by sunlight, insects, and abrasion brought on by everyday use. They are frequently worn away at the top edge, by the owner pulling them up at night to stay warm.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- date made
- 1800-1830
- early 19th century
- 1827
- maker
- unknown
- ID Number
- TE*T009571
- catalog number
- T09571.000
- accession number
- 172485
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Eagle and Deer Coverlet
- Description
- This blue and white double-woven Jacquard coverlet has two borders: one with deer and trees, and one with eagles and the dome or tower of a building. The words “E Pluribus Unum” (out of many one—our national motto) appear on a ribbon above each eagle. In the lower two corners, the words “Woven At The Ithaca Carpet Factory By Arch’d Davidson 1838” appear. The center of the coverlet features stylized medallions of flowers. This coverlet originally belonged to James Madison Wheeler, grandfather of the donor. Archibald Davidson was born in Scotland in 1771, where he was trained as a weaver. He and his wife Jane had five sons one born in Pennsylvania and the other four in New Jersey. They lived in both Tompkins and Warsaw Counties, New York, as well. The book American Coverlets and Their Weavers , by Clarita S. Anderson, states that in 1832 Archibald Davidson advertised himself in the Ithaca Journal and Daily Advertiser as a “fancy weaver” and went on to inform the public that he had purchased a “patent loom.” In 1849 he advertised for an apprentice, stating that: “None need apply unless well recommended.”
- Location
- Currently not on view
- date made
- 1838
- weaver
- Davidson, Archibald
- manufacturer
- Ithaca Carpet Factory
- ID Number
- TE*T011470
- catalog number
- T11470.000
- accession number
- 212398
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Eagles and Stars Coverlet
- Description
- This cotton and wool, double-woven Jacquard coverlet was made by C. Colling in 1836, possibly in New York State. It features a floral design in the center, with eagles, stars, buildings, and Masonic symbols in the border. There is no center seam. In each corner the design includes these words: “AGRICULTURE & MANUFACTURES ARE THE FOUNDATION OF OUR INDEPENDENCE July 4, 1836.” The year 1836 was the 60th anniversary of American independence. Unfortunately, nothing more is known about Mr. Colling.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- date made
- 1836
- maker
- Collings, C.
- ID Number
- TE*T014962
- catalog number
- T14962.000
- accession number
- 285502
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Sally Loper's Coverlet
- Description
- This fancy double-woven coverlet was made in Westbury, Long Island, New York, in 1817 for Sarah Bishop Loper. It was woven with cotton and wool yarns, possibly on a draw-loom. Mrs. Loper’s name, the date (December 2, 1817), and the name of the town are woven into the two lower corners of the coverlet. The coverlet was woven in two sections, which were sewn together. Mrs. Loper was born November 10, 1786, and married Luther Loper on January 17, 1805. They had seven children. This coverlet was passed through six generations of the family before being given to the Museum in 1971. The weaver and the meaning of the date are unknown.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- date made
- 1817-12-02
- 1817
- owner
- Loper, Sarah Bishop
- maker
- unknown
- ID Number
- TE*T015535
- catalog number
- T15535.000
- accession number
- 294367
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Tyler Coverlet
- Description
- Harry Tyler (1801—1858), is believed to have woven this Jacquard double-woven, cotton and wool coverlet for Margery L. Emerson of Jefferson County, New York, in 1858. Tyler was one of the country’s most productive weavers and changed his designs often. The eagles in the four corners are the second trademark used by Mr. Tyler. His first trademark was a lion. Harry Tyler was born in Connecticut, the son of English parents. In his later years, his son Elman worked with him, and some believe Elman designed the eagle trademark. This coverlet was woven in two sections, which were then sewn together.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- date made
- 1858
- maker
- Tyler, Harry
- ID Number
- TE*T015710
- catalog number
- T15710.000
- accession number
- 297488
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Queen's Delight or Mary Simmons Coverlet
- Description
- This blue and white cotton and wool overshot coverlet was woven in three sections in the early 19th century. The pattern used may be “Queen’s Delight,”or “Mary Simmons.” According to the donor, it was made by her great-great grandmother (no name given), probably somewhere in New York State. Although there were very few female coverlet weavers, many women engaged in spinning fiber into yarn. Spinning wheels were common in early American homes, and were listed in household inventories. A machine for spinning cotton or wool yarns strong enough to be used as weft or filling yarns was developed in England in 1764 by James Hargreaves. It was known as the “spinning jenny.”
- Location
- Currently not on view
- date made
- 1800-1825
- 19th century
- early 19th century
- maker
- unknown
- ID Number
- TE*T016385
- catalog number
- T16385.000
- accession number
- 303434
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center