Textiles - Overview

The 50,000 objects in the textile collections fall into two main categories: raw fibers, yarns, and fabrics, and machines, tools, and other textile technology. Shawls, coverlets, samplers, laces, linens, synthetics, and other fabrics are part of the first group, along with the 400 quilts in the National Quilt Collection. Some of the Museum's most popular artifacts, such as the Star-Spangled Banner and the gowns of the first ladies, have an obvious textile connection.
The machinery and tools include spinning wheels, sewing machines, thimbles, needlework tools, looms, and an invention that changed the course of American agriculture and society. A model of Eli Whitney's cotton gin, made by the inventor in the early 1800s, shows the workings of a machine that helped make cotton plantations profitable in the South and encouraged the spread of slavery.
"Textiles - Overview" showing 65 items.
Page 1 of 7
Diana Austin's Sampler
- Description
- This sampler features two script alphabets to “X,” and there are also two block alphabets: one with 26 letters and one to “W” with “NOPQ” not worked but a space left for them. At the bottom of the sampler, is a two-story house (in perspective) with a tall pointed tree and a spreading tree behind an ornamental fence, which has reverse-curved sections between fence-posts topped by urns. The house on Diana Austin’s sampler could be her home or the home of her teacher. She showed advanced technique by using surface stitches for her trees and not cross stitch. Diana included the inscription:
“Diana Austins Sampler
Marked AD 1827 Aged 8
PENFIELD NY”
- The sampler is stitched with silk embroidery thread on a linen ground with a thread count of warp 39, weft 46/ in. The stitches used are cross, detached chain, four-sided, Algerian eye, buttonhole, outline, and satin.
- Jotham Austin married Hannah Case as his second wife on August 25, 1817, in Franklin, Vermont. At some point they moved to Penfield, New York, where Jotham died in March 1830 and Hannah died on May 11, 1830. They had two children - Diana (b. May 9, 1819) and Sabrina P. (b. March 13, 1824). Libbeus Ross, who was married to Hannah’s step-daughter Honoria Austin, was appointed guardian of the family according to Hannah’s will, dated March 15, 1830.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- date made
- 1827
- maker
- Austin, Diana
- ID Number
- TE*T14276
- catalog number
- T14276
- accession number
- 276184
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
[Margaret] C. Simmons's Sampler
- Description
- One script and four block alphabets. Numbers to 10 and to 16. Two large and one small alphabet colored in groups of two; fourth alphabet colored in groups of four; numbers and smallest alphabet one color. Rows of alphabets and numbers separated by geometric crossbands; some geometric motifs used to fill spaces on rows of alphabets. Lower third of sampler contains two urns of free-stitched flowers surrounding large basket of fruit with side leaves. Geometric design border on all four sides. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground. STITCHES: cross, crosslet, satin, Algerian eye, rice, double herringbone, stem, four-sided. THREAD COUNT: warp 29, weft 29/in.
- Inscription:
- "[Margaret] C. Simmons Work Washington City Oct th 2 d
1827"
- Background:
- Margaret was born about 1819 to James and Mary Simmons. James is listed as a cooper, a barrel-maker, living at the Navy Yard in the 1822 Washington, D.C. directory. The court records of the District of Columbia record the marriage of Margaret C. Simmons to Patrick Dowling on May 9, 1839. In 1847 they had a son named Julius, who married Rosa M. Kuhn on January 10, 1877. Julius enlisted to serve in the Civil War in 1864 under the alias name of John Dickson. Miss Simmons's first name is missing from her sampler, but she made another sampler, typical of Navy Yard samplers, that included her whole name. Finding that sampler in a private collection made it possible to identify this sampler. Margaret died sometime after the birth of Julius in 1847, and before October 2, 1852, when her husband Patrick remarried.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- Date made
- 1827
- maker
- Simmons, Margaret C.
- ID Number
- 2000.0143.01
- catalog number
- 2000.0143.01
- accession number
- 2000.0143
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Phebe Esther Copp's Sampler
- Description
- Three block alphabets of 26 letters and numbers to 13; simple geometric crossbands separate these rows. Below verse, centered tree flanked by rose bushes and two framed texts. In verse, words colored alternately with name and date worked in black; in two framed texts, all lettering worked in black. Width of sampler full fabric width, selvedge to selvedge. Border of geometric strawberry-vine and cross-stitched zig-zag, with single rows of cross-stitch on all four sides. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground. STITCHES: cross, Algerian eye, long-armed cross, petit point, rice. THREAD COUNT: warp 28, weft 30/in.
- Inscriptions:
- "Let the f[s]weet work of prayer and praif[s]e employ my
Youngef[s]t breath Thuf[s] im prepared for longer dayf[s] or
Fit for earlier death Phebe Ef[s]ther Copp aged 8 1822
- Better it is to be
of an humble Spirit
with the lowly
than to divide the
Spoil with the proud
- This work I did
To let you See
What care my
Parents took of me"
- Background:
- Phebe Esther was born on November 9, 1813, to Samuel and Phoebe Haight Theall Copp in Stonington, Connecticut. The design of this sampler, made in 1822, when Phebe Esther was eight years old, is obviously based on a similar sampler made fifty-seven years earlier by her great-aunt Esther Copp. Phebe never married and died on February 3, 1837, in New York City. See Esther Copp's sampler.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- Date made
- 1822
- maker
- Copp, Phebe Esther
- ID Number
- TE*H06591
- catalog number
- H06591
- accession number
- 28810
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Susan H. Salter's Sampler
- Description
- One script alphabet no "J." Two block alphabets with 26 letters and numbers to 0. One partial and three complete geometric crossbands. Two small flower baskets and border on all four sides. Framing center is simple zig-zag, geometric strawberry vine in middle, Greek-key band at outside edge. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground. STITCHES: cross, crosslet, queen. THREAD COUNT: warp 29, weft 32/in.
- Inscriptions:
- "Remember now thy Creator in the days
of thy youth while the evil days come not
nor the years draw nigh when thou shalt
say i have no pleasure in them.
- Susan H Salter aged 10 years Elizabethtown
7th May 1826"
- Background:
- Susan Henrietta was born on April 7, 1816, to Thomas and Susan Henrietta Williamson Salter in Elizabethtown, New Jersey. She married George W. Wallace in 1843 and they had three children—William, Thomas, and Elizabeth. The sampler descended in the family of her sister, Harietta Matilda Spencer Salter, who married Elisha Codwise.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- Date made
- 1826
- associated dates
- 1967 06 09
- maker
- Salter, Susan H.
- ID Number
- TE*H11981
- accession number
- 51998
- catalog number
- H11981
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Anzolette Hussey's Sampler
- Description
- Three block alphabets of 26 letters (one incomplete); one script alphabet to "V"; no "J"; numbers to 9. Alphabets and numbers colored in pairs or groups with all rows separated by simple geometric crossbands. At bottom of sampler, pair of birds on trees and pair of urns with flowers. Border of simple geometric meandering band on all four sides. Silk embroidery thread on dark green linsey-woolsey ground; warp is blue linen and weft is green wool. STITCHES: cross, satin, hem. THREAD COUNT: warp 24, weft 34/in.
- Inscription:
- "Anzolette Hussey Aged
9 Years Nov 7th 1821"
- Background:
- Anzolette was born on April 7, 1812, to Captain Andrew (1783–1861) and Mary Tredick Hussey in Portsmouth, New Hampshire. She married Ebenezer Knight on June 15, 1835, and they had five daughters—Mary, Ariadne, Hannah E., Sarah K., and Abby. Anzolette died on November 20, 1895, in Washington, D.C., but is buried in Portsmouth. This sampler is very different from her other one and was probably worked at a different school. In 1827, at the age of fourteen, she was a student in the First Female School of Portsmouth. Throughout her life she used two different spellings for her first name. See Annzalette Hussey for her other sampler.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- Date made
- 1821
- maker
- Hussey, Anzolette
- ID Number
- TE*H33960
- catalog number
- H33960
- H. (/) 33960
- accession number
- 63786
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Annzalette Hussey's Sampler
- Description
- Two block alphabets of 26 letters. One script alphabet with no "J," and "O" instead of "Z"; numbers to 19. Alphabets and numbers colored in pairs or groups with all these rows separated by simple geometric crossbands. In lower half of sampler, flower basket on rectangular base, flanked by two eight-sided lozenges decorated with swags and tassels containing inscription and date. Border of geometric flowering vine on all four sides. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground. STITCHES: cross, crosslet, outline, stem, chain, satin. THREAD COUNT: warp 22, weft 25/in.
- Inscriptions:
- "Annzalette
Hussey
aged 9
- In the year of
our Lord
1821"
- Background:
- Anzolette was born on April 7, 1812, to Captain Andrew (1783–1861) and Mary Tredick Hussey in Portsmouth, New Hampshire. She married Ebenezer Knight on June 15, 1835, and they had five daughters—Mary, Ariadne, Hannah E., Sarah K., and Abby. Anzolette died on November 20, 1895, in Washington, D.C., but is buried in Portsmouth. In 1827, at the age of fourteen, she was a student in the First Female School of Portsmouth. On this sampler she spelled her name Annzalette, and throughout her life she used the two different spellings for her first name. This sampler is very different from her other one and was probably worked at a different school. See Anzolette Hussey for her other sampler.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- Date made
- 1821
- maker
- Hussey, Anzolette
- ID Number
- TE*H33961
- catalog number
- H33961
- accession number
- 63786
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Snowballs and Pine Tree Coverlet
- Description
- This blue and white cotton and wool coverlet features a variation of the Snowball pattern in the center, and a variation of the Pine Tree pattern along its borders. It is double-woven and believed to have been made in New York State in the first half of the 19th century. It was passed down through the family of the original owner to the donor, before being given to the Museum. The name of the weaver is unknown. Its condition is testimony to many years of use. Coverlets are damaged by sunlight, insects, and abrasion brought on by everyday use. They are frequently worn away at the top edge, by the owner pulling them up at night to stay warm.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- date made
- 1800-1830
- early 19th century
- 1827
- maker
- unknown
- ID Number
- TE*T009571
- catalog number
- T09571.000
- accession number
- 172485
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Maria Minton's Sampler
- Description
- One script and two block alphabets of all 26 letters; all these rows separated by simple crossbands. Numbers to 9 (below inscription). All letters and numbers worked in black. In lower register, hearts, flower-basket, flowering plants, birds. Inscription in solidly filled lozenge. Border of simple geometric band on all four sides. Silk embroidery thread on cotton canvas ground. STITCHES: cross, long-armed cross, herringbone, queen. THREAD COUNT: warp 23, weft 23/in.
- Inscription:
- "Maria Minton
aged 13 years"
- Background:
- Nothing is known about the life of Maria Minton.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- Date made
- 1826
- maker
- Minton, Maria
- ID Number
- TE*T11675
- catalog number
- T11675
- accession number
- 219034
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Mary Shields's Sampler
- Description
- Two block alphabets of 26 letters. Two rows of evenly spaced small motifs (hearts, birds, crowns, eight-pointed stars). Two small dogs in lower corners. Five whole and four partial geometric crossbands. No border. Wool and silk embroidery thread on linen ground. STITCHES: cross. THREAD COUNT: warp 30, weft 32/in.
- Inscriptions:
- "On God for all events depend you cannot
want when Gods your friend
- The Ant against Cold winter wisely hoard
Provision which The Summer's wealth afford
Reading a Silent Lesson to mankind that they
Ending moove not behind
- Better'n the Kindnesses that you Receive
As far as your ability which leave nothing is
More unmannerly than muth as that vile
temper of ingratitude
(This last verse has been badly repaired, and should read: Return the kindnesses that you receive
As far as your ability gives leave Nothing is
more unmannerly nor rude Than that vile
temper of ingratitude)
- Mary Shields May the 30 1827"
- Background:
- Nothing is known about the life of Mary Shields.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- Date made
- 1827
- maker
- Shields, Mary
- ID Number
- TE*T11676
- catalog number
- T11676
- accession number
- 219034
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Lydia Ann Garton's Sampler
- Description
- Four block alphabets of 26 letters. Numbers to 14; two rows of initials "MG," "JG," "CG," "LAG,"; "RG," "AG," "WCG," and "JG." Two alphabets, numbers, and initials colored in pairs. All these rows separated by simple crossbands, and included in them, apple worked in pulled thread and patch of shaded florentine stitch; these rows separated from inscription by geometric strawberry crossband. Flanking inscription, two baskets of flowers. Border of geometric carnation vine on all four sides. Silk thread on cotton ground. STITCHES: cross, crosslet, queen, stem, satin, herringbone, eyelet, rice, tent, four-sided, outline, padded satin, Irish, pulled thread. THREAD COUNT: warp 26, weft 34/in.
- Inscriptions:
- "O blest Religion heavenly fair
Thy kind thy healing power.
Can sweeten Pain alleviate care
And gild each gloomy hour.
- Lydia Ann Garton was Born
April 4th AD 1811 Did this Work
in the 10th Year of her age AD 1820"
- Background:
- Lydia Ann was born on April 4, 1811, to Mark and Jane Cowgill Garton in Cumberland, New Jersey. The initials on her sampler are for her parents Mark and Jane, and for her and her siblings Charles, Lydia Ann, Rebecca, Ann, William Cowgill, and Jane. Lydia married William Murphy on June 20, 1833, in Cumberland, and they had five children—Sarah, Ann, John, Charles, and Mary. William was a glass blower, and they resided in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- Date made
- 1820
- maker
- Garton, Lydia Ann
- ID Number
- TE*T13433
- catalog number
- T13433
- accession number
- 254791
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
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