Textiles - Overview
The 50,000 objects in the textile collections fall into two main categories: raw fibers, yarns, and fabrics, and machines, tools, and other textile technology. Shawls, coverlets, samplers, laces, linens, synthetics, and other fabrics are part of the first group, along with the 400 quilts in the National Quilt Collection. Some of the Museum's most popular artifacts, such as the Star-Spangled Banner and the gowns of the first ladies, have an obvious textile connection.
The machinery and tools include spinning wheels, sewing machines, thimbles, needlework tools, looms, and an invention that changed the course of American agriculture and society. A model of Eli Whitney's cotton gin, made by the inventor in the early 1800s, shows the workings of a machine that helped make cotton plantations profitable in the South and encouraged the spread of slavery.
"Textiles - Overview" showing 5 items.
Betsy Bucklin's Sampler
- Description
- Betsey’s sampler includes three distinguishing features of Rhode Island samplers; trumpeting angels with embroidered faces, queen stitch flowers, and a three-story house. Below the house, flanking flowers and birds is the verse:
- “While hof[s]tile foes
our coaf[s]ts Invade
in all the pomp of
war arrayd Ameri
cans be not dismayd
nor fear the f[s]word
or GUn
While Innocence is
all our pride and vir
tue is our only Guide
Women would f[s]corn
to be defyd if led by
WASHINGTON”
- This verse on Betsy’s sampler offers a rare opportunity to discover the political thinking of a young girl during the Revolutionary War. She is showing a brave female defiance of Britain and an unwavering faith in George Washington, the commander of the Continental Army. Betsy undoubtedly was influenced by her father who was a privateer during the Revolutionary War. At the bottom of the sampler, flanked by queen stitch flowers, is a cartouche with the inscription:
“Betf[s]y
Bucklin Her
Work Septe
mber
1781”br>
- It is not known who the author of the inscriptions is. The sampler is stitched with silk embroidery thread on a linen ground with a thread count of warp 25, weft 23/in. The stitches used are cross, crosslet, queen, rice, straight, fly, stem, tent, and gobelin.
- Betsy [Elizabeth] Bucklin was born on September 20, 1768, in Providence, Rhode Island to Capt. Daniel and Eliza Carpenter Bucklin. On November 11, 1792, Betsy married Samuel Eddy. They had three children - Martha, Jonathan, and Elizabeth. She died of consumption on October 27, 1799, in Providence, Rhode Island.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- date made
- 1781
- maker
- Bucklin, Betsy
- ID Number
- 2008.0159.01
- catalog number
- 2008.0159.01
- accession number
- 2008.0159
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
1784 Overshot Coverlet
- Description
- The weaver and original owner of this very complex, well worn, single-woven, linen, cotton and wool, overshot coverlet, dated 1784, are unknown. The letters “E M” and the date are woven into the coverlet on the lower right hand side, using a hand technique. We do not know if
- “E M” stands for name of the owner or the weaver. In the 18th century it was not unusual for textiles to be marked with the initials of the owner, but it was usually done with embroidery. The initials identified the coverlet as the woman's property. Women could own and inherit "moveable" property.
- The overall patterns used in this coverlet are “Rose” and “Tables,” and there are two shades of indigo blue used in a band effect. The coverlet was woven in two sections, and then sewn together. The original size of the sections and the coverlet as a whole are unknown, as there are no original edges present. This coverlet was found in Massachusetts. In the18th century, a young woman might commission the weaving of a coverlet or receive one as a gift, and put it in her dowry (hope chest) saving it for use after marriage.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- date made
- 1784
- maker
- unknown
- ID Number
- 1979.0723.1
- accession number
- 1979.0723
- catalog number
- 1979.0723.1
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Overshot Coverlet 1787
- Description
- The date 1787 and the letters “M S” are woven into a corner of this cotton, linen, and wool, single-woven overshot coverlet. The center seam indicates the coverlet was woven in two sections that were sewn together. One section is an inch smaller than the other. The pattern could be a variation of “Kings Flower” pattern or “Roses and Tables.” This Coverlet was found in New York State. It is not known if “M S” are the initials of the weaver or the owner, both of whom are unknown. In the 18th century, household textiles were prized possessions, and it was not unusual for them to be marked with the owner’s initials and the date. However, the marking was usually done with embroidery.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- date made
- 1787
- maker
- unknown
- ID Number
- 1979.0723.2
- accession number
- 1979.0723
- catalog number
- 1979.0723.2
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Elizabeth Mason's Sampler
- Description
- Three block alphabets. No "J"; numbers to 18 and to 9; alphabets and numbers colored in groups of two. Rows of lettering and numbers separated by geometric crossbands; also two wide crossbands; one geometric strawberry vine, and one geometric vine with free-style roses, with guide-lines drawn under roses. At bottom of sampler, stag and doe on hillocks, surrounded by birds, butterflies, trees, flowers, under angular garland; stag and doe have satin-stitched collars. Name and date appear in flower-shaped medallion hanging from garland. Border of band of sawtoothed satin stitch and geometric carnation vine on all four sides. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground. STITCHES: cross, crosslet, stem, satin, Algerian eye, straight, bullion. THREAD COUNT: warp 36, weft 29/in.
- Inscriptions:
- "See How The Lillief[s] Flour White And Fair
See How the Ravenf[s] Fed From Heavenf[s] Air
- Arif[s]e Thou King of Kingf[s] Arif[s]e And Reign
Except Thy Worf[s]hip SprinG All Worf[s]hipf[s] Vain
- Elizabeth
Maf[s]On her
WOrk Ma
de
in the 11
Year Of
her ag
1783"
- Background:
- Elizabeth Mason was probably from the Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, area.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- Date made
- 1783
- maker
- Mason, Elizabeth
- ID Number
- TE*E391808
- catalog number
- E391808
- accession number
- 71679
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center
Rachel Kester's Sampler
- Description
- Block alphabet no "J." Each letter worked in different color. Letters in row, initials for family members "HKAKR / PKAKMKSKBKAKBWW," "R" that should go with last "W" out of order. Each pair of letters worked in different color, six sets being worked in black. These rows separated by simple crossbands. In center section, flanking one of verses, two large flowers, and initials "SK," "SK," "SK," "IK," "IW," and "RW" split with one on each side of flower. Below verse, wide crossband with flowers and strawberries. Another wide crossband at bottom of sampler, with two large flowers and urn of flowers. Border of geometric vine with strawberries and carnations on all four sides. Silk embroidery thread on linen ground. STITCHES: cross, satin, tent, eyelet, stem. THREAD COUNT: warp 28, weft 30/in.
- Inscriptions:
- "Love the Lord
And he will be
A tender father
Unto the
- The lof[s]s of treaf[s]uref[s] much
The lof[s]s of truth is more
The lof[s]s of Chrif[s]t if[s] f[s]uch
Af[s] no one can ref[s]tore
- The lot of f[s]aintf[s] have alway been
Affliction here and f[s]cornf[s]
And he that was the bef[s]t of men
Waf[s] mock and crown with thornf[s]
- Rachel Kester her samPler
made in the 14th year of her age
1788 H T"
- Background:
- Rachel was born on June 16, 1774, to Paul and Anna Webster Kester in Kingwood, New Jersey. The family moved to Millville, Pennsylvania, in 1780. There Rachel married Chandlee Eves on January 5, 1797, and they had ten children—Anna, Elizabeth, Yeatman, John K., George Fox, Benjamin, Charles, Sarah, Rachel, and Chandlee. Rachel died in Pennsylvania on May 22, 1835, and her husband died on December 30, 1836. The initials "HT" following the date in the inscription could be those of a teacher.
- The first set of initials are her grandparents Heranus and Anne Kester; her parents Paul and Anna Kester; her siblings Mary, Sarah, Benjamin, and Arnold Kester; and her grandparents Benjamin and Rachel Webster. It is not clear to whom the other initials belong.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- Date made
- 1788
- maker
- Kester, Rachel
- ID Number
- TE*T16007
- catalog number
- T16007
- accession number
- 307850
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History, Kenneth E. Behring Center