Smithsonian Food History Roundtables
Friday, October 28 • 9:30 a.m. - 4 p.m. and 4 - 6 p.m.
The Food History Roundtables are a series free moderated conversations for all inquiring minds. Leading researchers, practitioners, and thinkers come together to address big issues around food in America via four roundtable sessions over the course of the day. All sessions are free with required registration and will be held in the Warner Bros. Theater at the National Museum of American History.
New for 2016! Stick around at the end of the day for a happy hour gathering for attendees, participants, and the Smithsonian Food History team to talk over light appetizers and drinks. It’s the perfect chance to mingle, connect, and talk more with like-minded, food-focused individuals! Free registration required, 21+ only.
The Food History Roundtables are free for all to attend with required registration. Please register for the day and indicate if you also plan to attend the Roundtables Happy Hour (21+ only, please).
Seating capacity at this event is limited and will be filled on a first come, first seated basis for all those with valid registration.
For all our food history friends who are not able to attend in person - we're bringing the Roundtables to you! Follow along, tweet questions to our speakers, and join the conversation with #SmithsonianFood.
Live webcast of the Food History Roundtables will be available on this page on October 28, 2016 from 9:30 a.m. – 4:00 p.m.
9:45 AM - 10:45 AM
How is food political, and why does it matter? Setting the terms and themes for the day.
Food and Agriculture Correspondent, NPR
11:10 AM - 12:10 PM
How are workers' lives shaped by what we eat?
Owner and operator, Castañeda & Sons, Inc, and Mission Labor, Inc
Cutten Professor, History of Technology, MIT
Former International Secretary-Treasurer, Service Employees International Union
Curator, Division of Political History, National Museum of American History
12:10 PM - 1:30 PM
Join other Roundtables participants downstairs on the lower level for lunch on sale in the Stars & Stripes Cafe. (Look for the specially marked seating section for Roundtables attendees)
1:30 PM - 2:30 PM
How did food labels become so complex?
Director, Food Policy Initiatives, Consumers Union
|Susan T. Mayne|
Director, Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition, FDA
Journalist and author, Sugar, Salt, Fat
Richards Professor Emerita, American History, University of Delaware
3:00 PM - 4:00 PM
What's good for you, how do you find out, and who gets to decide?
4:00 PM - 6:00 PM; S.C. Johnson Conference Center
Wrap up the Food History Roundtables by connecting with panelists and fellow attendees over delicious food and drinks in the museum’s conference center on the first floor. Network and chat with new food history friends or reconnect with colleagues while discussing the day's happenings.
21+ only, please; Free registration required.
5:00 PM until closing time; Greater Washington, D.C. metro region
Continue the conversations and food history festivities over dinner! Select restaurants in the greater D.C. metro region will feature a special dish on their menus this evening inspired by American food history. Proceeds from this dish will support future Smithsonian Food History programs. Special thanks to the Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington.
Please contact restaurants directly for reservation information.
Restaurants listed below by neighborhood or region:
Garrison • 524 8th Street SE, Washington, D.C.
Bluejacket • 300 Tingey St SE, Washington, D.C.
Centrolina • 974 Palmer Alley NW, Washington, D.C.
14th Street and U Street corridors
Compass Rose • 1346 T St NW, Washington, D.C.
Café Dupont • 1500 New Hampshire Ave NW, Washington, D.C.
America Eats Tavern • Tysons Galleria, 1700 Tysons Blvd, Tysons, Virginia
Does your restaurant want to participate in the Dine Out?
Contact us at firstname.lastname@example.org for details!
After each session, some Roundtable participants will be signing copies of their books in the Constitution Ave Lobby, in the center of the museum on the first floor (just around the corner from the Warner Bros. Theater). All books will be available for purchase.
10:45 AM - 11:10 AM
Marion Nestle • Soda Politics and Eat, Drink, Vote
Adrian Miller • Soul Food
12:10 PM - 1:30 PM
Deborah Fitzgerald • Every Farm a Factory
Mireya Loza • Defiant Braceros
2:30 PM - 3:00 PM
Susan Strasser • Satisfaction Guaranteed
Michael Moss • Sugar, Salt, Fat
4:00 - 4:30 PM
Helen Zoe Veit • Food in the Civil War Era: The South
Bryant Terry • Afro-Vegan
Brian Wansink • Slim by Design
Listed in alphabetical order
SESSION 1 • Professor Emeritus, American Studies, University of Maryland - Baltimore County
The Washington Post has called Warren Belasco “a pioneer in food studies” (8/20/2008). He is Professor Emeritus of American Studies at the University of Maryland, Baltimore County, where he taught courses on food history, popular culture, and environmental studies for over thirty years. Notable books include Food: The Key Concepts (2008), Meals to Come: A History of the Future of Food (2006), Appetite for Change: How the Counterculture Took on the Food Industry (1989), and Americans on the Road (1979). In addition to serving as editor-in-chief of Food, Culture and Society: An International Journal of Multidisciplinary Research, he has co-edited The Handbook of Food Research (2013), Food Chains: From Farmyard to Shopping Cart (2009), The Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America (2004), and Food Nations: Selling Taste in Consumer Societies (2002). He has taught thousands of students how to approach, research, and write about the pressing food issues of our time. He serves on the Smithsonian's National Museum of American History’s Kitchen Cabinet Advisory Board and is currently writing a culinary history of his hometown, Washington, D.C., where he grows figs and tomatoes.
SESSION 2 • Owner and operator, Castañeda & Sons, Inc, and Mission Labor, Inc
Carlos Castañeda owns and operates Castañeda & Sons, Inc. based on the Central Coast of California. His company employs farm workers for maintenance and harvest in vegetable, nursery, vineyard and tree crop industries - ensuring that the growers can continue to produce the best food products in the world and get them to consumers everywhere in a timely manner. Castañeda is a past-president of the San Luis Obispo County Farm Bureau and an alumni member of the California Ag Leadership Class 36, where he participated in skill and relationship building for agriculture at the local, national and international community levels. He is an advocate for farming and an expert in the subject of Labor and Immigration related programs, people and issues. For several years, he has participated in a nationwide network of labor and agriculture in implementing the H-2A temporary non-immigrant workers act. The program authorizes lawful admission of temporary labor to perform seasonal agricultural or other services. He believes strongly that it is his duty to the community to provide steady work for several hundred families, “so they can keep food on their tables.” He is a past chair of the California Farm Bureau Federation Labor Committee and is currently serving as vice chair; he is also Chair of the Agricultural Labor Working Group and was appointed to the USDA’s Fruit and Vegetable Industry Advisory Committee, and is current chair of the Labor Subcommittee. Carlos lives with his wife, Rocio, and his four children on the same property in South San Luis Obispo County where he grew up.
SESSION 1 • MODERATOR • Food and agriculture correspondent, NPR
Dan Charles is NPR's food and agriculture correspondent. Primarily responsible for covering farming and the food industry, Charles focuses on the stories of culture, business, and the science behind what arrives on your dinner plate. This is his second time working for NPR; from 1993 to 1999, Charles was a technology correspondent at NPR. He returned in 2011. He is the author of two books, Master Mind: The Rise and Fall of Fritz Haber, The Nobel Laureate Who Launched the Age of Chemical Warfare (Ecco, 2005) and Lords of the Harvest: Biotech, Big Money, and the Future of Food (Perseus, 2001) about the making of genetically engineered crops. In 2009-2010, he taught journalism in Ukraine through the Fulbright program. He has been guest researcher at the Institute for Peace Research and Security Policy at the University of Hamburg, Germany, and a Knight Science Journalism fellow at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. From 1990 to 1993, Charles was a U.S. correspondent for New Scientist, a major British science magazine.
SESSION 2 • Cutten Professor, History of Technology, MIT
Deborah Fitzgerald is the Cutten Professor of the History of Technology in the Science, Technology and Society Program at MIT. She specializes in the history of food and agriculture, and is the author of The Business of Breeding: Hybrid Corn in Illinois (Cornell,1990) and Every Farm a Factory: The Industrial Ideal in American Agriculture (Yale, 2003), as well as various articles, essays, and opinion pieces. She is currently working on a book that explores the industrialization of food during World War II. She also writes and speaks on the importance of humanities and social science education, particularly for students of STEM. Fitzgerald received her BA in History and English at Iowa State University in 1978, and her PhD in History and Sociology of Science at University of Pennsylvania in 1985. She was Assistant Professor in Harvard’s History and Science department from 1985-1988, before moving to MIT in 1988. She became Professor in 2002. In 2005 she was named Associate Dean of the School of Humanities, Arts, and Social Sciences, and served as Dean of the School from 2006-2015.
SESSION 3 • Director, Food Policy Initiatives, Consumers Union
Jean Halloran is Director of Food Policy Initiatives at Consumers Union, the policy arm of Consumer Reports. At Consumers Union she has led many projects on food safety, sustainable consumption and trade issues. She is currently responsible for developing policy and staff initiatives on reducing antibiotic use on livestock to prevent antibiotic resistance, GMO labeling and biotechnology, meat and poultry safety, and seafood safety. She has testified on food safety issues before Congress and state legislatures and is frequently quoted in the media. She has served on the U.S. State Department’s Advisory Committee on International Economic Policy, on the National Academy of Sciences’ Board on Agriculture and Natural Resources, and the FDA Food Advisory Committee. Halloran helped organize the TransAtlantic Consumer Dialogue (TACD), a forum of groups in Europe and the US that provides input to governments on trade policy, and serves as its US liaison point. She represented Consumers International at Codex Alimentarius, in developing standards for safety assessment of genetically engineered foods. Halloran received her B.A. with Honors from Swarthmore College.
SESSION 4 • Assistant Professor, American Studies, Brown University
Elizabeth Hoover is Manning Assistant Professor of American Studies at Brown University where she teaches courses on environmental health and justice in Native communities, indigenous food movements, Native American museum curation, and community engaged research. Elizabeth received her MA and PhD in Anthropology at Brown University, with a focus on environmental and medical Anthropology as it applies to Native American communities responding to environmental contamination. She just completed a book manuscript with University of Minnesota Press, “The River is In Us;” Fighting Toxins in a Mohawk Community, (due out Fall 2017) which is an ethnographic exploration of Akwesasne Mohawks’ response to Superfund contamination and environmental health research. Her second book project From “Garden Warriors” to “Good Seeds;” Indigenizing the Local Food Movement explores Native American farming and gardening projects around the country: the successes and challenges faced by these organizations, the ways in which participants define and envision concepts like food sovereignty, and importance of heritage seeds. This project is based on a decade working with Kanenhi:io Ionkwaienthon:hakie (We Are Planting Good Seeds), a Mohawk gardening organization at Akwesasne, as well as several years spent traveling to indigenous communities and food conferences, documenting Native American farming and gardening projects. Elizabeth also serves as an administrative member of the Native American Food Sovereignty Alliance (NAFSA), and the newly formed Slow Food Turtle Island regional association.
SESSION 2 • MODERATOR • Curator, Division of Political History, National Museum of American History
Mireya Loza earned her Ph.D in American Studies from Brown University. Her areas of research include Latino History, Social Movements, and Labor History. Her research has been funded by the National Endowment for the Humanities, the Ford Foundation and the University of Illinois. Based on oral histories and archival research her first book, Defiant Braceros: How Migrant Workers Fought for Racial Sexual and Political Freedom, focuses on under explored aspects of workers' lives, such as union organizing efforts, sexual economies, and ethnoracial boundaries among indigenous workers.
SESSION 3 • Director, Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition, FDA
Susan Mayne is the director of the Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition (CFSAN) at the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). In this position, Dr. Mayne leads the center’s development and implementation of programs and policies related to the composition, quality, safety, and labeling of foods, food and color additives, and cosmetics. An internationally recognized public health leader and scientist, Dr. Mayne received a B.A. in chemistry from the University of Colorado. She earned a Ph.D. in nutritional sciences, with minors in biochemistry and toxicology, from Cornell University. She comes to the FDA from Yale University, where she was the C.-E.A. Winslow Professor of Epidemiology. Her distinguished career there includes two leadership positions: chair of the Department of Chronic Disease Epidemiology and associate director of the Yale Cancer Center. Dr. Mayne has conducted extensive research into the complex role of food, nutrition, and other health behaviors as determinants of chronic disease risk. She is author or coauthor of more than 200 scientific publications. She completed two consecutive terms on the Food and Nutrition Board of the National Academy of Sciences, and a five-year term on the Board of Scientific Counselors for the U.S. National Cancer Institute. She also served on a nutrition advisory committee for the FDA. She has worked closely with other government agencies, including the U.S. Department of Agriculture, on developing practical applications of research.
SESSION 2 • Former International Secretary-Treasurer, Service Employees International Union
Eliseo Medina, former International Secretary-Treasurer of the Service Employees International Union (SEIU), chairs the Immigration and Latino Civic Engagement Initiative and leads the union’s efforts to achieve commonsense immigration reform. Medina's lifelong career as a labor activist began in 1965 as a 19-year-old grape-picker. Working alongside Cesar Chavez, he honed his skills as a union organizer and political strategist. In 1996, he was elected an international executive vice president of SEIU; in 2010, he was elected International Secretary-Treasurer. He stepped down from this post in 2013 to focus his energies on immigration reform. Later that year, Medina spearheaded the “Fast for Families” campaign during which he fasted for 22 days in a tent on the National Mall. His efforts reignited the debate for immigration reform.
SESSION 1 • Food writer, Soul Food
Adrian Miller is a food writer, attorney and certified barbecue judge who lives in Denver, CO. He is currently the executive director of the Colorado Council of Churches and, as such, is the first African American and the first layperson to hold that position. Miller previously served as a special assistant to President Bill Clinton and a senior policy analyst for Colorado governor Bill Ritter Jr. He has also been a board member of the Southern Foodways Alliance. Miller’s Soul Food: The Surprising Story of an American Cuisine, One Plate at a Time won the James Beard Foundation Award for Scholarship and Reference in 2014. His next book, The President’s Kitchen Cabinet: The Story of the African Americans Who Have Fed Our First Families, From the Washingtons to the Obamas, is scheduled to be published in Spring 2017.
SESSION 3 • Journalist and author, Sugar, Salt, Fat
Michael Moss is a Pulitzer-prize winning journalist and the author of Salt Sugar Fat: How the Food Giants Hooked Us,” a #1 New York Times Bestseller published in 2013 by Random House. He is currently working on a second book about food and addiction for Random House, Hooked: Food and Free Will.From 2000 until 2015, he was an investigative reporter with The New York Times, reporting most recently on the processed food industry. In 2010, he won the Pulitzer Prize for Explanatory Reporting for his investigation of the dangers of contaminated meat. His hamburger article was the centerpiece of a body of work focused on surprising and troubling holes in the system to keep food safe.Before joining The Times, Moss was a reporter for The Wall Street Journal, New York Newsday and The Atlanta Journal-Constitution. He was a finalist for a Pulitzer Prize in 2006 for his reporting on the lack of protective armor for soldiers in Iraq, and in 1999 for a team effort on Wall Street’s emerging influence in the nursing home industry. He received an Overseas Press Club citation in 2007 for stories on the faulty justice system for American-held detainees in Iraq. Moss is a former adjunct professor at the Columbia University Graduate School of Journalism. In 1983 he covered an expedition up the West Ridge of Mount Everest in Nepal.Born in Eureka, Calif., Moss attended San Francisco State University. He lives in Brooklyn with his wife, Eve Heyn, a communications specialist on global health matters, and their two boys.
SESSION 1 • Paulette Goddard Professor, Department of Nutrition, Food Studies, and Public Health, NYU
Marion Nestle is a consumer advocate, nutritionist, award-winning author, and academic who specializes in the politics of food and dietary choice. Her research examines scientific, economic, and social influences on food choice and obesity, with an emphasis on the influence of food industry marketing. She has written ten books, including the classic Food Politics: How the Food Industry Influences Nutrition and Health, exploring issues such as the effects of food production on dietary intake, food safety, and access to food and nutrition. Nestle is Paulette Goddard Professor in the Department of Nutrition, Food Studies, and Public Health, and Professor of Sociology at New York University. Her degrees include a Ph.D. in molecular biology and an M.P.H. in public health nutrition, both from the University of California, Berkeley. Dr. Nestle has received many awards and honors, among them the National Public Health Hero award from the University of California Berkeley School Of Public Health, the James Beard Foundation Leadership Award, and the Innovator of the Year Award from the United States Healthful Food Council. From 1986-88, she was senior nutrition policy advisor in the Department of Health and Human Services, and she has been a member of the FDA Food Advisory Committee and Science Board, the USDA/DHHS Dietary Guidelines Advisory Committee, and American Cancer Society committees issuing dietary guidelines for cancer prevention. From 2008 to 2013, she wrote the monthly “Food Matters” column for the San Francisco Chronicle, and blogs daily.
SESSION 3 • MODERATOR • Richards Professor Emerita, American History, University of Delaware
Susan Strasser has been praised by the New Yorker for “retrieving what history discards: the taken-for-granted minutiae of everyday life.” Her books on the history of consumer culture – Never Done: A History of American Housework; Satisfaction Guaranteed: The Making of the American Mass Market; and Waste and Want: A Social History of Trash – have won awards for their contributions to women’s history, the history of technology and business, and environmental history, and have been translated into Italian, Korean, and Japanese. She is Richards Professor Emerita of American History at the University of Delaware, and has also taught at Evergreen State College, George Washington University, Princeton University, and the Bard Graduate Center. Her work has been supported by fellowships from the Rockefeller and Guggenheim foundations, the German Historical Institute, the Harvard Business School, the American Council of Learned Societies, Radcliffe College, the Smithsonian Institution, and the Cultures of Consumption Programme, University of London. She is currently working on A White Historian Reads Black History, a series of talks for religious and community groups, and A Historical Herbal, an account of medicinal plants in American culture.
SESSION 4 • Chef, author, and food activist
Bryant Terry is an award-winning chef, educator, and author renowned for his activism to create a healthy, just, and sustainable food system. He is currently the Chef-in-Residence at the Museum of the African Diaspora (MoAD) in San Francisco where his programming celebrates the intersection of food, farming, health, and the African Diaspora. Bryant is the author of the critically acclaimed books Afro Vegan, Vegan Soul Kitchen, and coauthor of Grub (with Anna Lappé.) His work has been featured in The New York Times, Food and Wine, Gourmet, and Essence, among many other publications. Bryant is the host of the web series Urban Organic and a co-host of the public television series The Endless Feast. He is a featured expert in the series Big Ideas for a Small Planet, as well as in the films Soul Food Junkies, What’s on Your Plate, and Nourish: Food + Community. Bryant’s work has earned him numerous accolades, including a 2015 James Beard Foundation Leadership Award, the inaugural Natural Gourmet Institute Award for Excellence in Health-Supportive Education, and an Open Society Community Fellowship from the Soros Foundation. In 2002 he founded b-healthy (Build Healthy Eating and Lifestyles to Help Youth), an initiative in New York City designed to empower youth in fighting for a more sustainable food system. Bryant holds a M.A. in History from NYU and a B.A. in English from Xavier University of Louisiana. He lives in Oakland, California with his wife and their two daughters.
SESSION 4 • MODERATOR • Associate Professor, History, Michigan State University
Helen Zoe Veit specializes in food in American history. She is an associate professor at Michigan State University, where she teaches a variety of classes about food, family, and United States history. She is now writing a book called Small Appetites: A History of Children’s Food, which examines the dramatic changes in American children’s eating during the last two hundred years. Her first book, Modern Food, Moral Food: Self-Control, Science, and the Rise of Modern American Eating in the Early Twentieth Century (UNC 2013) was a finalist for a James Beard Award in Reference and Scholarship. Veit is director of the What America Ate project, funded by the National Endowment for the Humanities, a digital archive and interactive website about eating and cooking in the Great Depression. Veit is also editor of the American Food in History book series with Michigan State University Press. The first book in the series, Food in the Civil War Era: The North (2014) won Gourmand International’s award for best American cookbook in a series and was a finalist for the food history award from the International Association of Culinary Professionals. The second book in the series, Food in the Civil War Era: The South, was released in Spring 2015 and the third book, Food in the American Gilded Age, will be released in 2017.
SESSION 4 • Professor and director, Cornell Food and Brand Lab, Cornell University
Brian Wansink is the John Dyson Professor of Marketing, the Director of the Cornell Food and Brand Lab and Co-Director of the Center for Behavioral Economics in Child Nutrition Programs and co-founder of the Smarter Lunchrooms Movement at the Dyson School of Applied Economics & Management at Cornell University, Ithaca NY. He earned his Ph.D. in marketing at Stanford (1990) and was marketing professor at the Amos Tuck School at Dartmouth College (1990–1994), the Vrije Universiteit in Amsterdam (1994–1995), and the Wharton School at the University of Pennsylvania (1995–1997) and the Julian Simon Faculty Scholar and Professor of Marketing, Nutritional Sciences and Agricultural and Consumer Economics at the University of Illinois at Urbana–Champaign (1997–2005). He is also the author of over 150 peer-reviewed papers and of the best-selling book Mindless Eating: Why We Eat More Than We Think (2006) and the recently released book Slim by Design: Mindless Eating Solutions for Everyday Life (Sept. 2014).
Smithsonian Food History Weekend is made possible through generous support from:
U.S. Farmers & Ranchers Alliance
The Julia Child Foundation for Gastronomy and the Culinary Arts
Melissa's Produce Company
If you would like to support the 2016 Food History Weekend or for more information on how to get involved, please contact Kari Fantasia, Deputy Director for External Affairs, at 202-633-3302 or FantasiaKa@si.edu.