Friday, November 2, 2018 • 9:30 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.
The roundtables are a series of moderated conversations for all inquiring minds. As a core component of Food History Weekend, the roundtables will convene historians, writers, chefs, entrepreneurs, activists, and practitioners to discuss changing regional foodways in America. The first two panels of the day will address broad questions about the concept of regions and the role of place in shaping American food cultures. The second two roundtables are case studies of two emblematic regions in the United States: the Pacific Northwest and the South. These case studies will explore strong food traditions alongside emerging aspects of new regional cuisines. All sessions are free, with registration strongly recommended, and held in the Warner Bros. Theater at the National Museum of American History.
Participants in the roundtables will sign copies of their books after their presentations. Books will be available for purchase onsite.
Accessibility: Please notify us as soon as possible at firstname.lastname@example.org if you have any accessibility needs for the Roundtables.
The roundtables are free for all to attend with registration strongly recommended.
Seating at the roundtables is limited and will be filled on a first-come, first-seated basis—first for all registered attendees, and then to all walk-ins. Only registered attendees will be permitted to enter the museum early at 9:30 a.m. for the first session of the day. The museum will open to the public and walk-in attendees at 10:00 a.m.
For all our food history friends who are not able to attend in person, we'll bring the roundtables to you!
Streaming information for the 2018 roundtables will be available this fall.
INTRODUCTION: REGIONS REIMAGINED
9:30 a.m.–9:45 a.m.
SESSION 1: THE POWER OF PLACE
9:45 a.m.–10:45 a.m.
Through this wide-ranging discussion, we’ll explore the evolving concept of region. How has our understanding of regions shaped everything from our sense of self and community to economic activity and agricultural landscapes?
William Cronon, Ph.D.
Professor, University of Wisconsin–Madison
Corby Kummer (MODERATOR)
Writer and editor, senior lecturer, Tufts University’s Friedman School of Nutrition
Session 1 Book Signings
10:45 a.m.–11:10 a.m., 1 East
SESSION 2: SELLING REGIONS
11:10 a.m.– 12:10 p.m.
How do communities, food entrepreneurs, and tourism-related industries sell the concept of a region to consumers, patrons, and visitors? Why is food such a compelling medium through which to brand a place, its people, and its way of life? What are the consequences of branding a region and how does it impact regional food cultures?
Jennifer Dueck, Ph.D.
Stephen A. Jarislowsky Chair in the Modern History of the Middle East and North Africa, University of Manitoba
Jessica B. Harris, Ph.D.
Culinary historian lecturer, consultant, and author
Lucy Long, Ph.D.
Director, Center for Food and Culture
Amy B. Trubek, Ph.D.
Professor, University of Vermont
Ashley Rose Young, Ph.D. (MODERATOR)
Historian, American Food History Project, National Museum of American History
Session 2 Book Signings
12:10 p.m.–12:40 p.m., 1 East
LUNCH: EAT AT AMERICA’S TABLE CAFE
12:10 p.m.–1:30 p.m.
Lunch break! Join other roundtables participants downstairs on the Lower Level for lunch, on sale in the Eat at America’s Table Cafe. (Look for the specially marked seating section for roundtables attendees)
SESSION 3: RECLAIMING THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST
1:30 p.m.–2:30 p.m.
How have abundant natural resources and diverse cultural communities shaped the Pacific Northwest? How have people protected, claimed, exploited, and reclaimed the region’s food traditions? What are the local and global issues and ideas that have motivated people across the region to chart a different course for the future of food?
Owner, Goschie Farms
Creative thinker and maker
Rebekah Denn (MODERATOR)
Session 3 Book Signings
2:30 p.m.–3:00 p.m., 1 East
SESSION 4: REMIXING THE SOUTH
3:00 p.m.–4:00 p.m.
What makes food “Southern” and who gets to decide? How are chefs and home cooks rethinking what it means to eat Southern food today? How is our understanding of this regional evolving to include diverse communities, cooking techniques, and culinary traditions?
Culinary historian and food writer
Sam Vong, Ph.D.
Curator, National Museum of American History
Joe Yonan (MODERATOR)
Food and Dining editor, The Washington Post
Session 4 Book Signings
4:00 p.m.–4:30 p.m., 1 East
ROUNDTABLES HAPPY HOUR
4:00 p.m.–6:00 p.m.; S.C. Johnson Conference Center
Stick around at the end of the roundtables for a happy hour for attendees, participants, and Smithsonian Food History staff, so that we can continue the conversation over light appetizers and drinks. Network and chat with new food-history friends or reconnect with colleagues while discussing the day's happenings.
Free registration is required for entry to the Happy Hour; 21+ only.
William Cronon, Ph.D.
SESSION 1 • Professor, University of Wisconsin–Madison
William Cronon’s teaching and research specializations focus principally on the environmental history, landscape history, and historical geography of North America, concentrating mainly on the United States with a secondary interest in Canada. Cronon is committed to history that makes the past come alive for public audiences, both in the form of written storytelling and in the many new media that have become available in this digital age. Cronon’s current projects include the book The Making of the American Landscape; a history of Portage, Wisconsin since the last Ice Age; and a book on the changing role of environmental concerns in American politics, especially since the Second World War. Twitter: @wcronon
SESSION 3 • Moderator • Journalist
Journalist Rebekah Denn curated the 2017 Edible City exhibition on Seattle’s food history for the city’s Museum of History and Industry, and also wrote the accompanying book. She was the restaurant critic and food editor for the Seattle Post-Intelligencer, and is currently a contributor to The Seattle Times, Sunset magazine, The Washington Post, The Christian Science Monitor, and other outlets. She was an editorial contributor to Modernist Cuisine and wrote for the cookbook set Modernist Bread: The Art and Science (2017). Denn has received one James Beard Award for food writing and another for restaurant criticism. She has also received the Emery Brownell Award for Excellence in Reporting on Equal Justice Issues from the National Legal Aid & Defender Association, the Thurgood Marshall Journalism Award from the Death Penalty Information Center, and the James Aronson Award for Social Justice, from Hunter College. Her less serious work includes hosting the internet’s most popular video on how to carve a Watermelon Baby Carriage. Denn lives in Seattle with her omnivorous husband and three vegetarian children. Twitter @rebekahdenn.
Jennifer Dueck, Ph.D.
SESSION 2 • Stephen A. Jarislowsky Chair in the Modern History of the Middle East and North Africa, University of Manitoba
Jennifer Dueck’s research deals with the 20th-century cultural and political history of the Middle East in a transnational context, including themes of youth, cuisine, imperialism, and migration. Her current research traces the globalization of Middle Eastern cuisine, focusing on the history of how Middle Eastern ingredients and dishes migrated to North America. Dueck is the author of The Claims of Culture at Empire’s End: Syria and Lebanon under French Rule (2010), as well as numerous refereed book chapters, academic journal articles, and book reviews. She regularly presents talks and papers in North America, Europe, and the Middle East. For her scholarship, she received the competitive British Academy Postdoctoral Fellowship (2006-2009) and the Leigh Douglas Memorial Prize from the British Society for Middle Eastern Studies for best doctoral thesis in the UK on a Middle Eastern topic (2006). In addition to research and teaching appointments at the University of Cambridge, the London School of Economics, and the University of Oxford, Dueck has also served as director of United World Colleges International for the Middle East and North Africa.
SESSION 3 • Owner, Goschie Farms
Gayle Goschie is a fourth-generation farmer who manages Goschie Farms. Nestled within the hills of the Pacific Northwest's scenic Willamette Valley, Goschie Farms has been a fixture in the Oregon farming community for 130 years. In addition to growing over 550 acres of hops and 150 acres of wine grapes, Goschie Farms also grows 300+ acres of other crops including grass seed, corn, and wheat.
Sandra A. Gutierrez
SESSION 4 • Cookbook author
Born in the United States, Sandra A. Gutierrez is a bilingual journalist and award-winning Latina author of four cookbooks. A national expert on Latin American and Southern regional cuisines, Gutierrez was a 2017 grand-prize winner of the M.F.K. Fisher Awards for Excellence in Culinary Writing. Her book The New Southern-Latino Table: Recipes that Bring Together the Bold and Beloved Flavors of Latin America and the American South was selected by the Smithsonian Institution to form part of the exhibition, Gateways/Portales at the Smithsonian’s Anacostia Community Museum. Twitter: @sandralatinista
Jessica B. Harris, Ph.D.
SESSION 2 • Culinary historian lecturer, consultant, and author
Jessica B. Harris is the author, editor, or translator of over 17 critically acclaimed books documenting the culture—especially the foods and foodways—of the African Diaspora. Her book High on the Hog: A Culinary Journey from Africa to America was the International Association of Culinary Professionals 2012 prizewinner for culinary history. Her most recent book, My Soul Looks Back: A Memoir, was a 2017 PEN Open Book Award finalist. An award-winning journalist, Harris has written in numerous national and international publications ranging from Essence to German Vogue. Most recently, she has been contributing editor at Saveur and drinks columnist and contributing editor at Martha’s Vineyard Magazine. Harris holds degrees from Bryn Mawr College, Queens College/CUNY, The Université de Nancy, France, and New York University. She was a professor of English in the SEEK Program at Queens College/C.U.N.Y. for five decades. In 2012, Harris was asked by the Smithsonian’s National Museum of African American History and Culture to conceptualize and curate its cafeteria. She is also a member of the Kitchen Cabinet at the Smithsonian National Museum of American History.
SESSION 3 • Chef
Edouardo Jordan was born and raised in St. Petersburg and attended the University of Florida. After graduating with dual degrees in business administration and sports management, Jordan enrolled in culinary school at Le Cordon Bleu in Orlando. Following graduation, Jordan’s ambition brought him to renowned restaurants such as The French Laundry, Per Se, and Lincoln Ristorante. With thoughts of raising a family and opening a restaurant in mind, Jordan moved to Seattle, where he began working at Sitka and Spruce as sous chef. In 2013 Jordan was asked to open Bar Sajor as chef de cuisine. Taking the knowledge and experience he had gained, Jordan officially opened the doors to his restaurant, Salare, in June 2015. Taking influences from France, Italy, the American South, and the Caribbean, Salare was celebrated as a best new restaurant in America by Eater National in 2016. In April 2017 Jordan opened his second restaurant, JuneBaby, which received Best New Restaurant awards from Food & Wine and from the James Beard Foundation in 2018. Jordan was also nominated for a James Beard Award in 2016, named a finalist in 2017, and received Best Chef Northwest in 2018. Twitter: @tamburg
SESSION 1 • Moderator • Writer and editor; senior lecturer, Tufts Friedman School of Nutrition
Corby Kummer is the author of The Joy of Coffee and The Pleasures of Slow Food, the first book in English on the Slow Food movement. He has been a restaurant critic of New York, Boston, and Atlanta magazines and a food and food policy columnist for The New Republic. He is a senior editor at The Atlantic, to which he has long contributed articles on food and food policy, and editor-in-chief of Ideas: The Magazine of the Aspen Institute. Every week he is a featured commentator on food and food policy on WGBH's Boston Public Radio. He has received five James Beard Journalism Awards. Twitter: @CKummer
Lucy M. Long, Ph.D.
SESSION 2 • Director, Center for Food and Culture
Lucy M. Long directs the Ohio-based non-profit Center for Food and Culture and is an adjunct assistant professor in American studies, ethnic studies, folklore, and tourism at Bowling Green State University. With a Ph.D. in Folklore and Folklife from the University of Pennsylvania, she has researched food’s role in constructing, performing and negotiating meaning, identity, community, and power since the 1980s. She has published numerous articles, museum exhibits, and video documentaries on a variety of topics around food, including the books Culinary Tourism (2004), Regional American Food Culture (2009), Ethnic American Food Today: A Cultural Encyclopedia (2015), The Food and Folklore Reader (2015), Honey: A Global History (2017), and Comfort Food: Meanings and Memories (2017). She is a frequent reviewer for academic journals and presses in a variety of fields and is active in several scholarly associations and civic organizations.
SESSION 1 • Author
Ronni Lundy is an award-winning author who has been writing about the food, music, and culture of the southern Appalachians and the American South for more than 30 years. In 2017 her book Victuals: An Appalachian Journey, with Recipes received Book of the Year and Best Book of American Cooking from the James Beard Foundation, as well as Best American Cookbook from the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Lundy’s other books include Shuck Beans, Stack Cakes, and Honest Fried Chicken (1990), Sorghum’s Savor (2015), and, as editor, Cornbread Nation 3: Foods of the Mountain South (2005). Additionally, Lundy has served as a writer and/or editor at newspapers (Louisville Times/Courier Journal), at magazines (Gourmet, Esquire, Eating Well, The Zenchilada, Louisville), and at Lark Books. She is a founding member of the Southern Foodways Alliance and a recipient of its Craig Claiborne Lifetime Achievement Award for her food and music writing. She is also a founder of the Appalachian Food Summit. Born in Corbin, Kentucky, and raised in Louisville with strong ties to the mountains, she often writes from that perspective and about the experience of the Appalachian diaspora. She is happy to find herself in her beloved mountains again as a present resident of Burnsville, North Carolina. Twitter: @ronnilundy
SESSION 4 • CheFarmer
CheFarmer Matthew Raiford wears many hats. Most recently, he again donned his “toque blanche” as owner and executive chef of the new Brunswick, Georgia, restaurant Strong Roots Provisions, serving Port City food with jazz, rhythm, and blues. His first restaurant, The Farmer and the Larder, opened in 2015 and was featured in Garden & Gun as one of the South’s most exciting new restaurants. Raiford was named a 2018 James Beard semifinalist for Best Chef in the Southeast. He also recently served as program coordinator and associate professor of culinary arts at the College of Coastal Georgia. Raiford and his family own and operate Gilliard Farms, where he is the sixth generation to farm the land since 1874. Established by Raiford’s great-great-great-grandfather, Gilliard is a certified organic farm growing under the watchful eyes of Raiford and his sister, Althea. Raiford holds a bachelor’s degree in culinary arts from the Culinary Institute of America. He is also an ecological horticulturist with certification from the University of California Santa Cruz Center for Agroecology and Sustainable Food Systems.
SESSION 1 • Chef
Chef Sean Sherman of the Oglala Lakota was born in Pine Ridge, South Dakota. In the past 30 years, Sherman has cooked across the U.S. and Mexico, becoming renowned in the culinary movement of indigenous foods. His main focus has been on the revitalization and evolution of indigenous foods systems throughout North America. Sherman has studied these food systems extensively to determine their foundations and gain a fuller understanding of Native American cuisine to bring back to today’s world. In 2014 he started The Sioux Chef as a caterer and food educator in the Minneapolis-Saint Paul area. He and his business partner Dana Thompson also designed and opened the Tatanka Truck, which featured pre-contact foods of the Dakota and Minnesota territories. In October 2017 Sherman and his team were able to perform the first decolonized dinner at the James Beard House in Manhattan. His first book, The Sioux Chef’s Indigenous Kitchen, was awarded the 2018 James Beard Award for Best American Cookbook and was chosen as one of the top 10 cookbooks of 2017 by Los Angeles Times, San Francisco Chronicle, and Smithsonian Magazine. This year Sherman was selected as a fellow of the Minnesota-based Bush Foundation. The Sioux Chef team of 12 people continues with its mission to provide education and make indigenous foods more accessible to as many communities as possible through its recently founded nonprofit NATIFS. Twitter: @the_sioux_chef
Amy B. Trubek, Ph.D.
SESSION 2 • Professor, University of Vermont
Dr. Amy Trubek is a professor in the Department of Nutrition and Food Sciences at the University of Vermont and the faculty director for its Graduate Program in Food Systems. Trubek was trained as a cultural anthropologist and chef, and her research interests include the history of the culinary profession, globalization of the food supply, the relationship between taste and place, and cooking as a cultural practice. Her expertise involves using multiple types of qualitative research methods to understand everyday practices related to food and the implications of such practices for our contemporary food system. She is the author of Haute Cuisine: How the French Invented the Culinary Profession (2000), The Taste of Place: A Cultural Journey into Terroir (2008), and Making Modern Meals: How Americans Cook Today (2017), as well as numerous articles and book chapters. Trubek is involved in several long-term research initiatives. One looks at domestic cooking and involves a transdisciplinary, multi-institution team researching both the definition of and the actions involved in home meal preparation as well as the consequences for the daily practices and individual health of Americans. Her current emphasis in her long-standing research on the taste of place involves looking at the sensory experience of tasting and evaluating artisan products from Vermont with the goal of helping producers, consumers, and policymakers better understand the qualities and quality of place-based food and drink. Trubek lives with her family on an heirloom apple orchard, where they make fresh cider, hard cider, and ice cider, and pick lots of fresh apples, pears, and plums.
SESSION 1 • Culinary historian and food writer
Michael W. Twitty is a culinary historian and food writer from the Washington, D.C., area. His first major book, The Cooking Gene: A Journey Through African American Culinary History in the Old South (2017), won the 2018 James Beard Award for Writing and Book of the Year. Twitter: @koshersoul
Sam Vong, Ph.D.
SESSION 3 • Curator, National Museum of American History
Sam Vong is a curator at the National Museum of American History, where he is building collections related to Asian Pacific Americans in the United States. He received his Ph.D. from Yale University. Prior to working at the Smithsonian Institution, Vong taught courses on race, ethnicity, and migration at the University of Texas at Austin and Gustavus Adolphus College. As a public historian, Vong's work focuses on how Asian Pacific Americans have played an important role in U.S. history and have been integral in shaping American institutions and culture.
SESSION 4 • Moderator • Food and Dining editor, The Washington Post
Joe Yonan is the Food and Dining editor of The Washington Post, supervising all food coverage in the features department. His work has won The Post’s food coverage top honors from the James Beard Foundation, the International Association of Culinary Professionals, and the Association of Food Journalists. Yonan is also the editor of America The Great Cookbook (2017), a project to benefit the charity No Kid Hungry, and has written two cookbooks, Eat Your Vegetables: Bold Recipes for the Single Cook (2013) and Serve Yourself: Nightly Adventures in Cooking for One (2011). He is working on another cookbook about beans. Yonan was a food writer and travel section editor at the Boston Globe before moving to Washington in 2006 to edit The Post’s food section. He writes The Post’s Weeknight Vegetarian column and for five years wrote the Cooking for One column. He also has written about his efforts to grow food on his 150-square-foot urban front yard. His writing in the Globe and The Post has appeared in multiple editions of the Best Food Writing anthology. Yonan, who grew up in West Texas, spent 2012 in North Berwick, Maine, on leave from The Post to learn about growing and homesteading from his sister and brother-in-law and to work on Eat Your Vegetables. He is a graduate of the University of Texas at Austin and the Cambridge School of Culinary Arts. Twitter: @JoeYonan
Ashley Rose Young, Ph.D.
SESSION 2 • Moderator • Historian, American Food History Project, National Museum of American History
Ashley Rose Young is the historian of the American Food History Project at the Smithsonian’s National Museum of American History. As a member of the Food History Team, Young focuses on curatorial work, academic research and writing, and public programming. She is co-curating the refresh of the FOOD: Transforming the American Table exhibition, which houses Julia Child’s kitchen. She is also the host and program director of the museum’s live cooking demonstration program, Cooking Up History. Young received her B.A. in history at Yale University and her M.A. and Ph.D. in history at Duke University. Her academic manuscript project is a study of nineteenth-century street food culture in America and is titled, “Nourishing Networks: the Public Culture of Food in Nineteenth-Century New Orleans and the Nation.” Twitter: @ashleyroseyoung
SESSION 3 • Creative thinker and maker
Elizabeth Woody is an enrolled member of the Confederated Tribes of Warm Springs, Oregon, of Yakama Nation descent, and is “born for” the Tódích'íinii (Bitter Water clan) of the Navajo Nation. Her paternal grandfather’s clan is Mą'ii deeshgiizhinii (Coyote Pass-Jemez clan). She received the American Book Award in 1990 and in 1995 won the William Stafford Memorial Award for Poetry and was a finalist for the Oregon Book Awards. Woody has published three books of poetry. She also writes short fiction and essays, and is a visual artist. Woody earned a Master of Public Administration through the Mark O. Hatfield School of Government’s Executive Leadership Institute of Portland State University and a Bachelor of Arts in Humanities from The Evergreen State College. She studied Creative Writing and Two-Dimensional Arts at the Institute of American Indian Arts. She has taught at the Institute of American Indian Arts and at Portland State University. Woody is alumna of the first Kellogg Foundation’s Fellowship through Americans for Indian Opportunity’s Ambassadors program. She leads writing workshops and lectures and has served on multi-disciplinary art fellowship jury panels for several foundations and arts organizations nationally. Woody is presently on the Board of Directors of Soapstone: Celebrating Women Writers and on the Willamette University Native American Advisory Council. She served as the Oregon Poet Laureate for 2016–2018.